DIY Do It Yourself Redneck Brake Rotor Resurface: Resurface Brake Rotors at Home
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 มิ.ย. 2019
- Warning: Potentially Dangerous Procedure. Follow at your own risk.
This procedure worked out great and solved my pulsating rotor problem.
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Everybody is hating on this because they're pissed they didn't think to try it first. Also if they don't cite 100 reasons you can't use this technique then the only reason they paid so much to have a professional" do theirs is because they were conditioned to and that realization is not pleasant
point of discs machinning, is to eat damaged surface evenly, by special tools, so you get very accurate disc surfaces, both sides and inner side that touches wheel bearing/hub. Doing this, is just cleaning surface of the rust. it doesnt straighten the disc. This method is relatively good, when your car has been standing longer period of time, to clean surface rust off of it.@@neilspires7259
Any problems moving the non-drive rotors back to the drive rotor. E.G. Because of Emergency brake causing difference in the rotor design? Thanks
I don't know why so many people hating on this. I see no issue with it, it's sanding pretty evenly & there's no harm in trying to rectify some old rotors. What's the worse that happens ? It doesn't work out and you end up having to buy a new rotor ? No harm no foul, I'm gonna try this out.
Exactly. Thanks for the support man. I'm still running on these rotors with no brake pulsation. Rotors don't get warped, they get uneven pad material on them that cause pulsation. Knock the pad material off and the rotor is good.
It's unnecessarily dangerous. The pulsation is caused by pad material being stuck on the rotor after an aggressive stop, then have the brakes pushed hard. Taking the rotor off and cleaning BOTH SIDES with a sanding disc will give you the same result.
Put a dial indicator on it. Then you'll see the problem with it. Just because you put lipstick on a pig doesn't mean its not a pig anymore.
They're hater because they think you're supposed to pay them to put new rotors on and throw the old ones in the landfill
@@shorelinearmorllc477 or you can simply bring it to a shop and pay fraction of the cost for a rotor turn…
Pretty sure some dead 1930’s and 1940’s mechanics are looking at your from heaven saying “kids think they reinvented the wheel !” Good job mate I’ll try it out
That's an awesome video, I did similar over the weekend. I used a brush wheel in a drill, didn't even think to put the rotor on the car, lol, brilliant.
Been resurfacing rotors forever. As long as you do not reach minimum thickness I say go for it. The worst that can happen is that you don’t get the results and need to put a new disc on. Why not save some money. I can say that I have done my own for over 40 years on all kinds of vehicles with great result and no failure. You can waste your money on rotors but I like my money in my pocket.
Yup! I'm literally still running the same rotors I did this procedure on. Thanks for the great comment.
I don’t know if you know this but only one wheel will spin if it’s in the air on all vehicles without limited slip. If you stop the wheel that’s spinning the other wheel will then spin instead
So then only jack up one side of the car at a time?
I was looking for this exact video as i don’t have access to a lathe and wanted to see if others had thought of polishing their rotors like this. I’m glad to see that the results turned out great, and will definitely be giving it a try myself.
It's crazy how people click on this video to give a thumbs down. You saw the thumbnail 🤷♂️.
That's all of the repair shops that have been charging $50 to turn rotors for no reason. Thanks for the support.
Was looking for DIY way to 'skim' my discs rather than buy new, this is awesome video
Very creative but my situation is a little different if have light groves no pulsation on the rotors could I smooth them out with just replacing pads with new semi metallic ones?
Cool,glad someone else has done this. I used a belt sander, figured a long flat.
I pushed the brake pads Back and put sandpaper between the pad and rotor. After driving around the block a couple of times it was good as new.
What grit
Genius
Hahaha 😂 love it... 👍
Dude... ingenious! I’m going to give it a try.
Did you use glue to do it? I was thinking of doing the same 🙂
I just watched your video, it looks smart, am going to apply this for my TLX.. just wanted to ask how long this took you to finish Both front rotors ?
I did thesametoday, afterwards i found yr video. Itworks great, ifu work with feel and good concentration, it works great!
You can also cut some 80 grit sand paper and place it between the pad and rotor and just ride your brakes a little bit.
That's actually a good idea
I appreciate the video. Very informative especially for those DIY who want to save $$ where possible.
Seems to me a few measurements should be taken at different spots to verify uniform thickness?
Yes you use measuring calipers for that, all that will happen is enuven wear of the pads at best, at worst he would still have a little bit of that shake when he brakes.
I've done this with a flap disk on a grinder. perfect for a quick cleanup.
Thanks man. My brake pulsation hasn't come back since I did this.
@@LuckyVagabond no kidding, thats good news. A metal lathe is on my list of things to get though.
yep that's my plan
I have done this with a flap sander on a 4.5 inch angle grinder. I did it with the rotors off the car by rotating by hand and continually moving the grinder being careful to sand evenly around the perimeter. The results were good.
See people, I'm not crazy. This really works. Thanks for the comment man.
Thx for sharing
yep that's my plan
Exactly. A flap disk job, quick and easy.
am I the only one who saw rotor up and down pulsations without any pads? as if it is mounted off center or not parallel. I would check of there is anything between rotor and mounting plate like rust
Good observation! I haven't had any brake pulsation since I did this, so I'm guessing it's just from having the rotor tightened down with just two bolts.
That is not the way to resurface the rotor if the brake pedal is pulsating. The reason is pulsating is because the rotor surface is uneven....having that drill in your hand unsupported does practically nothing. For this to work, you need to mimic the actual setup of a lathe. The grinding wheel needs to move ever closer and closer while being securely fasten so the high surface area gets sanded and leaving the low surface untouched. You can't do that while holding the drill.
But, it worked. No pulsation after this procedure. Explain that!
@@LuckyVagabond is called rigging...it works in third world countries too.
@@hmax1591 No, actually pedal pulse can come from uneven deposition of brake pad material onto the rotor or one raised bump of rust around the perimeter. This method takes care of both (to some extent).
@@LuckyVagabond I cant
Pulsation and uneven friction across 360° are different. Pulsation is thickness variation and the pad deposit in rotor should cause erratic gripping but still a smooth feel in the pedal.
The darker coloration is the old pad material which would cause the new pad to jitter.The rust is a problem which in my case I am going to replace the rotors because it has pitted the rotor surface.
Thanks for the comment. I'm still running these same rotors with no pulsation. I'll probably replace them at next brake pad change.
My problem with this is a it’s probably not going to be an even cut
And 2 its most likely going to have a rough stop, ice seen it happend, although you broke the glaze the finish winds up bring to rough and has harsh stoping
Worked out great for me. Brakes are still nice and smooth.
this can be done with a die grinder?
It has been a few months now and the brake pulsation has not come back. This procedure really works!
You can get the 3" sanding disc kit at Harbor Freight: www.harborfreight.com/3-in-surface-conditioning-kit-19-pc-60752.html
does this get rid of the heating?,,I changed both my break line hose,,I don't wanna change my master cylinder cause the breaks are good
Thanks for the update, was just about to ask how well this held up, I have almost the exact same circumstance. New pads, too cheap to get the rotors turned now I have a pulse in the rear.
....."break line".....c'mon, really, seriously?
How much did the sanding disc kit cost you
can you explain in more detail the type of brake pulsation you were getting.
Feels like the brake pedal is pulsating up and down whenever you brake at higher speeds. You can feel the pulsation through the steering wheel too.
Thanks for posting this. I kinda had a similar idea of trying this but ur idea is better than my original. 👍
You're welcome. Glas to help.
For the low grit stuff you can upgrade to a ceramic abrasive. Ceramics last longer.
What's the result did it fix the problem?
what i found out about brake pulsation. i bought drilled rotors never warped and any gas or pad residue goes into the holes then ejected
Nice!
Second one looks really good. Very clever.
Some ppl don't understand you gotta do what ya gotta do not everyone has money flowing out their hinends. I need to redneck resurface mine. I'm about to tackle my back brakes too. I'm sick of getting ripped off.
Have you checked pre- and post-work runout? How the uniformity changed?
No, but the brake pulsation went away.
It looks like you sanding at an angle. Isn't it supposed to be straight surface sanding?
How are you doing it?
Good job!
That's actually a pretty good job dude really.
Thanks! I ran those same rotors for three years after this procedure. No pulsation whatsoever.
Gonna try this on my CRX!
I've watched things on TH-cam for years this was truly awesome video good job.
I have had 'luck' using a hammer [carefully] to first remove the rust and transferred pad material that forms around the inner and outer circumference of the rotor. With the rotor spinning, I then use sandpaper in a similar fashion to remove glazing and to smooth the surface of the rotor - finishing off by spraying it down with brake cleaner and wiping clean. This has worked consistently well without incurring damage to the rotor. Removal of the circumference rust first minimizes the sanding required to do so - saving both time and sandpaper.
I have a lip problem , caused by the pad not covering the whole rotor , this would be good for that
Use chap stick for your lips. Or Vaseline.
@@billiebobbienorton2556 lip of the rotor , not my lips on my face , caused by mismatched pad to rotor sizes , it’s like a small ridge
This is so sketchy. I love it. Do you think a sanding block and sandpaper would also do the trick? Might be a good way to lose a few fingers.
Probably so, since I really think all you're doing is sanding off the old pad material built up on the rotor. Thanks for the comment.
If ur worried about fingers just put the sand paper on the end of your...
Thought bout that old gray look block that stinks when used
Doesn't seem like a terrible idea it might be worth a try.
While it's on jack stands and in the drive position, why does only one side spin while the other side remains still? Even after removing the brake pads on both sides of the wheel, only one side spins while the other side remains still. I need to have both sides spin simultaneously.
Same thing happened to me. I think the differential needs resistance to engage the other side. I just moved the other brake rotor to the spinning side.
Because of the differential, open diff
@@LuckyVagabond Had you put it in reverse, it most likely would have spun the other side instead.
I would only recommend using rough grit on the lip and the inside. I wouldnt go below 240 for the surface for sure or use the scotch pads for it that were included. That way youll only skim the surface. Also make sure you put your drill at 90° because like you were holding it id guarantee that the surface isnt flat anymore. Anyways howd it go, happy with the result?
Yes, I ran those rotors with no pulsation for nearly 4 years.
I would just wrap a precision piece of solid square tubing with sandpaper and hold it up against the disc as it spins And keeping same amount of pressure at all times .
gotta admit that’s a good shine you got in those rotors
Well, i liked this vid, so i tried it out for myself...unfortunately my pulsation is still there 😔
Was hoping it would work! They look really good and rotors are only about 3 years old. But it did not fix my pulsation. Might take them in to get turned if its not the same price as new rotors.
Do you think it was necessary to run the car to turn the rotor? Could the same service be done with rotor off the car and held stationary in a vice?
That's a good question. I think you probably could get similar results on the bench, but having the rotor turning helps with evenness, in my humble opinion.
@@LuckyVagabond Yes, of course it does, because now you are simulating a lathe. What is better is to set up a stand on which you hold the drill steady, so you're not freehanding it.
Soooo, how about an update on whether or not this worked ?
Yes, it worked perfectly. Took all the pulsation out from the rotors. I drove on them until just this year when I bought new rotors.
going to try this! Thanks!
Nice!
Use a grinder take down the ridges. Then use a vibrating mini mouse sander with 40 grit pads on flat surface. Disk then checked on kitchen work surface for trueness . Works perfectly. Be safe doing this.
I am a fan of harbor freight but their sand paper is extremely bad. It gets clogged very fast and fails to remove material. Project farm has an excellent video comparison the different sand papers. Definitely go with the 3m paper, it's better by miles.
Thanks for the advice!
I never had an issue with the grey silicon carbide wet sanding stuff. Honestly my favorite paper to prep for paint on metal with. The regular stuff on the other hand not so great.
Awesome👍 its better to figure out and try to fix things yourself. I usually take them off while the car is on jack stands, take the rotors to Brake Masters and have them machine it for $10 each but if this works really well I rather do them this way.
It's 25 bucks a rotor to turn them here
did u do the rear rotor too ????? put it on front drive to do it ??????
Nope, just the front rotors.
I have been doing this for a long time
Works great!
I have the same car same problem But I’m going to go shop to get them turned
Rear wheel drive or FWD
Can it be done on bigger trucks like f250 or e250
Not sure. My vehicle was front wheel drive, which made it easier to do.
@@LuckyVagabond i think tire store didn't torque my lug nuts even my rotors make it shimmy when braking I hate it
You’re burning through sandpaper faster because of the heat caused by the combined speed of the turning rotor and your drill. Heat kills sandpaper
Yeah, I think I used up about four disks doing both rotors.
Yeaaaah heat on cast iron😂lmao
Why do people use edge and not use tool flat..?
can always put the other rotor on the side that spins~
Will you do the same thing on the other side?
Yes, I did.
Was thinking to do the same with my f150 using 2 2x4's with sand paper attached to evenly sand both sides at the same time..or 1x4's or something that's flat. Glad to check TH-cam first and to -block- the piston from moving in when it's removed..and don't use brakes while resurfacing.
So much better than the guy using a small round sander on a flat rotor on the table.. possible uneven sanding.
i paid $90 to do this at the shop. Next time, i will do this Thank you sir respect
Why paid for $90 when you can get them done at Orielly for $40-$60 depending where you live all day long. Just a friendly little tip to share!
@@dannytrinh07 Oreillys charges s much to turn as to buy new ones and Autozone does not turn them anymore. Gonna try this on my shopsmith!
That is so creative.
Actually pretty smart , I probably wouldn’t do it only because it’s only $5 a rotor at my local shop to have them resurfaced professionally, But it’s not a bad idea if you wanna save some money
Damn $5? All I'm finding is $25 a rotor here
I called a shop that charges $50 a rotor. I assume because they probably just don't want to do it.
Con una lija plana después vea si hay surcos
Thank you!
I give it a like. I see you are still getting negative comments from people about a 2 year old video that obviously did not read any of the previous comments. You try to help someone out, and see what you get. Next time anyone tell you to get them turned just tell them "OK send the money and I will".
Thanks mate! I'm still running on the same rotors with no pulsation. This works!
Can you do this with high carbon rotors?
No
Somehow I'm back here 2 years later 😂 still haven't tried this but might tomorrow.
Let us know how it goes.
I did this before, just popped in my head one day,damn this is dangerous but ohh well, it actually turned out ok
It works, but yes, dangerous.
I would say you can see the scratches on the surface. Does the disc still have the minimum thickness and is it balanced? In some countries in our world it would be illegal. This could be done on the disc of a farm tractor, but not on a street-legal car!
Yes, still balanced and thickness was fine. Sanding is not the same as cutting a rotor. All I did was remove brake pad material.
Usually pulsating brakes is a clear sign of a warped rotor or drum. I suppose other factors could contribute... I live in a hilly area. With some smaller mountains. Bad pothole roads. Gravel roads. Salted snow covered in the winter. Heavy rain and hot humid in summer. Our cars dont last long.( south of buffalo ny near p.a. boarder) most cars have holes in the floors within 10 years. And suspension systems take a beating. Almost any brake job i have done as a mechanic i have noticed the pads and or slides are frozen in place. This has some to do with others almost always using the wrong lubricants. ALWAYS use silicone grease. But our environment just degrades things very quickly. Because of the hills no matter what type rotors i have used i find that they usually become warped after the first few drives. Brake noises are usually from like mentioned before siezed pad ears or slide pins. Also embedded material in the rotors and or pads. Causing glazing. If you ever have a squeal but the pads have alot of surface left. It is best to clear the rotor like this video. Or to a lesser extent with just some emory clothe and brake cleaner. Also clean the pads. Soak with brake cleaner and wipe with a rag. Then take sand paper or emory cloth and scuff the surface and spray again with brake clean. Do this a few times until the pad appear rough and free of loose material. Most mechanics dont typically do this. But i always have. It is my remedy for brake chirp. I do the same with drums. Often with drums, since thet hold most of the brake dust inside they become embedded. My father told me years ago guys would do this. But all they did was put the brake pad on a concrete flood upside down step on it and scratch it back and forth across the floor.. Haha. That works too. Just a dirtier less controlled method. Risking getting oil or whatever else in the pad..
Pulsing brakes is caused by a thickness variation of the rotor. Always buff both sides of the rotor hat and hub clean of rust and debris. A lateral runout caused by rust trapped between the rotor and and hub will cause a thickness variation as the rotor wears. Lateral runout can also make the pads wiggle back and forth in the bracket creating a squeaking noise and extra wear on the pad locators.
I was just passing through that side of town for the first time going to Niagara Falls I flew in from Miami to buffalo did Niagara then drove to Manhattan, that driving trip was all hilly compared to flat Florida ,I realized all the older cars were rusted out.
This is not a new concept. Old-timers used to do this on a lathe after cutting the rotors to ensure good bedding.
I've never run into this issue personally. I normally end up replacing the rotors due to wear, rust and time. Normally I just knock the ridges of and pad swap till the rotors are toast.
Brake pulsation used to be a common problem due to pad material. Unless you have a sized caliper and trash the brakes, 99 % of the time its pad material on the rotors that is causing the pulsation. If you have fairly new rotors this is an option. On older rotors I'd not waste my time. They are not that expensive. Shops won't do this, so if you have some time you can play around. You don't really need to grind. You just have to skim the surface/put a scratch trough it and bed the pads. Also don't cheap out on the pads and you won't have this issue in the first place.
Exactly! Great comment my man. Thanks.
Would clean w/brake cleaner, take a few measurements before starting & after.. Would finish up with some emory cloth for minute pits & final cleaning..
I was scratching my head and scratching my nuts trying to think of a way to set the rotor on a balanced spin and I hadn't thought of this.
there should be a shift lock release so you dont have to hit the brakes just fyi
Thanks!
works
Yup!
My friend did it for me on my wife 08 crv exl. And he didnt with the car off no need to have it on and spinning you do it manually.
How much could rotors cost for a mass produced Honda Pilot? It's not like this is a Mercedes AMG SUV with huge pizza box rotors.
Too much. This procedure is cheaper and way more fun.
Have you ever bought rotors? Obviously not.
Is that safe and work good?
Kinda dangerous, but yes, it works.
This how brake places clean it anywYs
Yup, so I'm not that crazy in doing this. It worked great for me.
Pad shudder is caused by the pads moving in pulse with a warped disc. Uk price for a skim £10. Price for a common rear disc new. Not really much more.
Yes, but I kept a set of rotors out off the landfill for over three years.
If its pulsating its warp needs to be cut sanding it down will not do it will not work only remove groves.
The works great but to me it looks like the rotor is warped
That’s great DIY as long as you don’t drill through the rotors because they crack if someone hacked into them
Yup, just a light sanding.
Wouldn't it be better to get the bad stuff off while the rotor is off the car and then fine sand with it on?
Yes, probably so, but not as fun. Lol
@Lucky Vagabond hey man, fair enough. Back when I made this comment, I tried this 😆 it didn't work out. I think I may have sent it a little too hard. The rotors were already shot, and I had the new ones ready to go on, so no harm, no foul.
Question, The question... Did it work?
Yes, it did. I'm still running on the same rotors with no pulsation at all.
Can I ask for your number
.
@@nadiaswaidan5272 you're asking me?
alexia mora
Yes text me Yiur number plz
Anytime you do new pads you must ALWAYS DO A PAD BREAK IN. Find a safe spot and get your car up to 45 mph and slam on the brakes. Do this 3 times , let them cool and then do it again 2 more times. Your trying to get the new pad material to transfer onto the rotor. Every pad manufacturer has a break in process on their website too.
Good to know, thanks
Little risky..but that is one way to get the rotors to spin. Most guys just take the rotors off and sand them down with 100 or 80 grit. Some years ago I talked to a brake guy and he said he just uses a wire wheel type brush on his drill to clean the surfaces of GOOD rotars. I tried it on an older Acura TL I had and it seemed to work just fine when I put new pads on. BUT good job buddy. Anything you can do in the garage on a weekend afternoon to save yourself 500 bucks is time well spent. Brakes Plus just quoted me 600 to do the rear brakes on my Explorer! lmao...They want to remove my heavy duty high performance rotors I put on 4 years ago and toss them...then put on the OEM stuff. I am like WTF dude. No way. Give me the car back and I will spend a few hours and 50 bucks on the pads and be back on the road with $550 still in my bank account.
that's the ROTOR-ROOTER....
i think a belt sander would work better, or take it to the auto part store and have them turned for 5 to 10 bucks
😂 u said it's red leck shh 🤫
Heck naw that's called do it ya self grown man living ... Appreciate the video...
Heck yeah man. I ran those rotors for 4 years with no pulsation. Smooth as butter.
Great idea to have those spin while your surfacing them
Nothing about this is a great idea but it was fun to watch lol.
Pretty sure u didn’t have to run the car. Pop caliper off and just go around the rotor. Then flip it over and do the same. You are trying to remove the uneven deposits and rebed the pads. Having the car come off the stands or rotor. I have and I don’t allow running engines on it. Seen cars fall off lifts/jack stands etc.
Good point. I probably could have just let the drill turn the rotor.
The 10 👎 are brake and tire shops.
Exactly right! Thanks man.
Pulsing brakes is caused by a thickness variation of the rotor. Always buff both sides of the rotor hat and hub clean of rust and debris. A lateral runout caused by rust trapped between the rotor and and hub will cause a thickness variation as the rotor wears. Lateral runout can also make the pads wiggle back and forth in the bracket creating a squeaking noise and extra wear on the pad locators.
Биение руля от дисков не зависит от чистоты поверхности плоскости прижима колодок тормозных А от разницы толщины тормозного диска Так шлифовавши наждачкой ничего не даст Кроме убить время
Mask or breathe the dust?
Nope....
The rotor is warped I can see it in the video