Hi I am new to Prusa's and have acquired four Prusa's. I have an MK2, MK3 and two MK3S+. I really appreciate the time you take to explain problems and reviews. I made the decision to go with Prusa based your experiences and others experiences with Prusa. I am having extruder problems and will use your well thought out and professionally delivered instructions and attempt to solve the problems. Again what you do is so helpful and appreciated.
Interesting analysis, but I believe that the additional tensioning of the screws i.e. flush with the extruder body, is to ensure proper engagement of the driven gear teeth with the gear teeth of the idler. Without this engagement, the idler is not actually helping to "drive" the filament, but is only acting as a guide surface. This behavior will be more evident when applied to retractions. Additionally, having only minimal "grippage" on the filament can be detrimental to step accuracy of the extruder motor if the filament slips due to inadequate pressure from the hobbed gear. This information may or may not apply to your situation due to the uniqueness of each printer. Thanks for the videos and hopefully we can all learn something together.
Thanks, Irv! I had used my original sensor for several months with no problems. Then I installed a new sensor. It still malfunctioned, and I gave up after tearing my hair out. Just ran a print using the sensor and changed colors midstream. Worked like a charm! Previously it would pause for "filament out" after just a few layers and continued to the point that I had to just turn off the sensor. This info should be in the instructions and would save some users and Prusa some headaches.
I think this video demonstration would benefit from having a shot of the extruder from the other side (where the screws catch the nut) That way we can see how far into the nut the screw is in.
Good question. I will have to investigate. I originally spent the time to understand this adjustment because I was getting false out of filament errors. Ironically this was happening with white PLA not with black PLA or PETG which both worked fine. Your question is very interesting in that context. It may have been that the elasticity of the white filament was different.
@@MakeWithTech Hello, have you tried TPU? I don't have problems with >80 Shore A TPU filament but with 70A I didn't succeed. I'm using a MK3S+ Thank you!
Well done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Week done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Well done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Week done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Week done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Hi I am new to Prusa's and have acquired four Prusa's. I have an MK2, MK3 and two MK3S+. I really appreciate the time you take to explain problems and reviews. I made the decision to go with Prusa based your experiences and others experiences with Prusa. I am having extruder problems and will use your well thought out and professionally delivered instructions and attempt to solve the problems. Again what you do is so helpful and appreciated.
Interesting analysis, but I believe that the additional tensioning of the screws i.e. flush with the extruder body, is to ensure proper engagement of the driven gear teeth with the gear teeth of the idler. Without this engagement, the idler is not actually helping to "drive" the filament, but is only acting as a guide surface. This behavior will be more evident when applied to retractions. Additionally, having only minimal "grippage" on the filament can be detrimental to step accuracy of the extruder motor if the filament slips due to inadequate pressure from the hobbed gear. This information may or may not apply to your situation due to the uniqueness of each printer. Thanks for the videos and hopefully we can all learn something together.
Thanks, Irv! I had used my original sensor for several months with no problems. Then I installed a new sensor. It still malfunctioned, and I gave up after tearing my hair out. Just ran a print using the sensor and changed colors midstream. Worked like a charm!
Previously it would pause for "filament out" after just a few layers and continued to the point that I had to just turn off the sensor. This info should be in the instructions and would save some users and Prusa some headaches.
Thanks for the comment. Glad the info was helpful.
Dear Jalnx, you wrote that you used your filament with no problems ... can you explain then why you switched to a new sensor??
I did not switch sensors. I do find you sometimes need to re-calibrate the extruder depending on the filament.
I think this video demonstration would benefit from having a shot of the extruder from the other side (where the screws catch the nut) That way we can see how far into the nut the screw is in.
Good suggestion. Thanks for commenting.
Hey I’m impressed Doc 👍 Better info than I expected. But just not a fan of the music 🤣
Music is like horse races. Everyone has their favorite.
Doesn't the elesticity of the filament plays a part? I would guess that TPU would need more tension. Have you tried it?
Good question. I will have to investigate. I originally spent the time to understand this adjustment because I was getting false out of filament errors. Ironically this was happening with white PLA not with black PLA or PETG which both worked fine.
Your question is very interesting in that context. It may have been that the elasticity of the white filament was different.
@@MakeWithTech Hello, have you tried TPU? I don't have problems with >80 Shore A TPU filament but with 70A I didn't succeed. I'm using a MK3S+ Thank you!
Excellent video and impressive explanation!
Tank you, so helpful!
Well
done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Week done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
are you using potato as a microphone?
Sorry the sound was not better. I have since upgraded to use a combination of Rode microphones and Tascam recorders.
Well
done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Week done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?
Week done. . Have do it with a new prusa mk3s . Have so much trouble Clicking noises in the extruder. And I know it as to be The idle screw. How far you have to go to tighten or loosen?