I agree on the safety of products being so underrated. We’re working with these products all day and the accumulation of toxins over time is hazardous. This is why I love Sonax products as this is a main priority for them.
@@dontblameme6328yes because caring about potential poisons that could enter your body makes someone a snowflake. Fuck outta here with that hyper-masculine right-wing bullshit lmao. We’ll drop by once in a while as you lay in hospice. 😆
My Toyota is 26 years old. Aside from the lids, the body finish shines like new. I like Mother's. 8yrs ago, I used their 3 step process except I used cleaning wax instead of clay bar, because the 1st step pure polish restored the shine way beyond my expectations, and now I reapply Mother's 3rd step pure carnuba wax every 4 months, well before the wax already on my vehicle wears off the finish. I use Lucas spray wax after each wash. I Rain-X all the glass. Between washes I wipe the pollen and pollution dirt off every 2 days so I don't have to wash my van for a month or more! Keep your car finish slippery and dirt will repel. Re-waxing my van by hand takes me about an hour now that I keep up with protecting the clear coat. Mother's #3 carnuba wax lasts about 6 months. My 23yr old barn rescue Harley shines like new also. Dupont paste Chrome polish makes old chrome brilliantly shine.
@@blautens RU serious? ROOF AND HOOD The paint is OEM 26yrs old. Never touched. If there wasn't soo much engine close to the hood, the paint would still be good.
Big fan of the spritz on after wash ceramic washes.. Meguires Hybrid Ceramic Wax A major advantage: It doesn't mess up plastic trim like paste wax! This is huge.. no more wax in crevices etc.. Wipes clean.. can even easily release light stuck specks (bug parts?) on your front.
Ditto Meguires Hybrid Ceramic- 3 years now. 1) Everything Markhall said totally true. 2) If you put too much on, leave it, or rinse it immediately, hard to mess up otherwise 3) Adaptable. Want to wash then dry AND wax? Just try one or two squirts per panel (temptation is strong, hold back!) and you have a magnificently protected paint, moldings, glass (keep off windshield) Want to go halfway? Dry then spray largish panels (half hood) and wipe off with microfiber towel (watch out for labels, they scratch) . Want to go full bore? Pick a 2 by 2 foot area, apply, wipe off, put microfiber in pocket, pull out new microfiber from other pocket, and methodically apply the Hybrid Ceramic. A catch? Yes! If you are where it rains a lot, it rinses this wax off, but dew in mornings, barely washes it off. However, for garage kept or dry regions, this stuff ROCKS because you can go two MONTHS washing once every two weeks and the water beads just almost as well as when applied. The value in protecting decals, bright (red) paints, plastics, moldings, from IR and UV sun, from water stains, from tree sap, from road salts, from brake dust, from smog, from noxious car wash soaps and stuff, cannot be underestimated.
I watched it for 5 minutes and saw your comment I decided not to continue watching because he talked too much and didn't get straight to the point :)))
I dislike the bright mirror finishes of ceramics. I feel like I’m driving around in a giant mirror. I use a traditional carnauba paste wax, typically three times a year. It gives a deep finish almost like there’s depth to the finish without the glare. A lot more work but worth it to me.
Before you start washing your vehicle, park in a shaded area but not under a tree, make sure the car surface is not hot but cool to warm, don't use a Pressure Washer, use a garden hose, use the 2 bucket method. Spray and wet down the vehicle, foam your vehicle, rinse the car, foam again, microfiber mitts soaked and soap, wash from top to bottom, sectioning off each panel, keep the wash mitt fresh by rinsing in cold water, and reapply foam suds and continue cleaning, time to rinse the whole car. Dry the car with slightly damp microfiber towel not a dry one which could scratch, or use a leaf blower which works rather well. Some people like to De-ironize (Iron Remover) their vehicle this is the time to do it. Spray and let set for about 60 to 90 seconds and Do not allow the iron remover to dry, rinse the car, using a clean damp microfiber towel wipe down and dry the car as picking up the iron remover residue. Clay Bar or Decontamination can be done, use a lubricant and always keep the car panel moist and lube, never apply pressure, your clay bar mitt, sponge, towel, or clay should glide nice and easy. Detailing a vehicle is a slow and tedious task. Now the vehicle is ready to put a sealant over the clear coat, waxed and polished. Never allow the polishing pads to become hot and move quickly across the panel evenly, change pads often and reapply the polish. I prefer to do things by hand and not using power tools. Okay, there are numerous Detailing videos. If you apply a real Ceramic Coating, it has a long cure time and you do not want to polish a vehicle that has been Ceramic Coated. Cleaning and protecting your vehicle inside out takes time, Plan on spending 6 hours minimum up to 2 days. Visual inspection of the underbody/undercarriage is time consuming as most vehicle have covers. Look for rust and crevices where water collects, time to clean the underside and near the tires, suspension linkage. Some lubrication may be needed. The outer shell or top areas of the vehicle are easy to maintain, just don't forget the bottom takes a lot of punishment and often neglected.
Foam cannons are amazing, however, especially if misused (intentional or misinformed) power washer can do the most harm in that case. The foam needs a smooth even coverage not blasted out at mach stupid onto the car.
Sooo is this the steps for a Million dollar car or for a Honda accord a little too much detail for something that is a daily driven car and will be washed again every week assuming If it’s someone taking care of their car.
In my neighborhood a guy with a truck washes a lot of my neighbors cars. Several Rolls Royces, Mercedes and the like. All this in the hot desert sun, mid day using hard water. For me, I prefer to have my car sent to a hand wash detail place that uses soft water, shade and a whole lot of care. They charge a lot and I tip a lot for the excellent service. Too bad that after a day or two, the desert dust does a number on my cars that are all black. Oh well - they are just cars and not a lifestyle.
Jimbo, as I'm in my home cellar shop reconditioning my and the wife's summer wheels, I really enjoyed your tutorial here. Very good points! Good reasons to have a varied selection of products in the quiver depending on needs and results. Keep up the good work. Shine on you crazy diamond!
Thanks Jimbo, look forward to your updated cerakote ceramic video. While it was unfortunate it was taken down I just wanted to tell you how helpful and important such a video was when such coatings performance determine whether we choose to use the coating professionally. Currently the only media about Cerave ceramic is the ones praising it to be some revolutionary bulletproof coating which is clearly misrepresented. Thanks for what you do.
@@chrisbradley3224 Not all that surprised. I use spray waxes and spray sealants on my powder coated wheels and none of them hold up very long when I use wheel cleaners. I try to rinseless wash my wheels when I can and always make sure to reapply protectant if I end up having to use something stronger
I have ceramic-applied coating on my black truck. I get shine, durability, and ease of cleaning. Just use a ceramic-safe cleaning product, blow dry, and finish with a microfiber. I use CarPro Reset and Reload.
Great video thank you, and love your honesty. Although a good few years old now i really still rate Megs Ultimate Quik Wax, especially for the summer months. All the best from UK.
i like the griots ceramic spray wax. makes shine a bit and makes water bead/ shedding water off very nice. I wash the car, spray while wet and towel dry. then apply a dry wipe on/wipe off.
Easy-peasy. Never had so many compliments. Car looks great for a very long time. Recommended to a ton of folks. However, it’s not going to give you the protection of a carnuba wax you would get from winter salt and such.
The thing I hate about waterbeads is they tend to dry with dirt in them and I'm left with a white car with a thousand little dirt dots. A flat panel kinda drys it self as the water falls off leaving less water spots
You must mean beading after the wash like after a rain. These are all polymers. If you look at a pool with polymers they tend to collect the dirt which helps when going through the pool filter. The new chemicals for pools make maintenance easy. I haven't used the polish materials and there isn't much information on the properties of polymers. I don't like polymers in my pool water as I wonder what coating is going on my body.
| You were absolutely right about the slicker surface, the less durable the protection. I used to think a super slick finish would be best for repelling dust. When I recently ran out of my usual product and had to switch to something less slick, I was amazed at how much longer it lasted. Now I know it's true.
I seem to recall years ago being pitched water sheeting over beading, because beads leave water spots. Going ceramic because I don’t want to wax every couple months anymore.
I still feel after all these years that water sheeting is optimal. Beading is fine when only when you can dry it right away. How about when your vehicle is left unattended during a storm?
Yes I don’t understand why they are saying beading is a good thing and water sheeting is bad when water sheeting seems to get the water off without water spots? It’s seem to me that when a new product comes out, we are brain wash to think a bad thing like beading is good leaving all of those water spot on the car and sheeting all the water off is a bad thing.
On the far-right panel after the ceramic spray you did something called "levelling." And you did it by hand. What is this procedure? Good video and good idea about just using the hood.
Leveling is basically getting rid of excess coating and/or the carrier chemicals that the coating needs in order to bond to the surface material. Leveling = wiping off with microfiber cloth or pad
I've used them all kind of products on my 2010 white diamond CTS from waxes to different ceramic coatings. For the last three years I've been using Meguiar's Ceramic Spray wax when I hand wash with plain water, no soap or car wash detergents. First product I have ever used that you can see the fine scratches fill-in & it doesn't seem to get as dirty even during our nasty Michigan winters. Even the polished 18" OEM wheels look almost like chrome. Owned the Caddy for 12 years, never been through a car wash & the finish looks as good as the day it was built. Gave away all my other polishes, waxes, sealers, etc. No regrets.
My brother was the detailer in the family for over 30 years. He passed away before passing on the information to a family member. I refinish floors in a Hospital for 15 years and had to pick up the torch and learn detailing. I really appreciate your information It is very informative. But what is leveling in the ceramic you Re talking about?
As a lifelong autobody painter ceramic is not all that...when it needs re applying it starts to show spots where more was applied AND its a real pain to paint over. I like Meguires liquid wax then sprays for qiick maintenance after washing
Bro what? You dont reapply ceramic coatings on top an old layer, you always polish the car first. And before painting you sand the car, you never "paint over" any coating...
Hey man appreciate the honesty in your videos. Something I’ve had a hard time getting an answer for is if you have a base layer whether it’s sealant or ceramic coating how does using a topper “enhance” the underlying costs properties rather than masking them?
If you think of it in layers, putting anything on top of something else would in theory protect what’s under it. Whether it actually happens like that or not could be up for debate.
IMO most likely. Sometimes the hydrophobic will go away from a coating but you can tell the coating is still there so to get the water to bead again you would add a “topper”. Does that make sense?
Your video has a great point about the give/take of different products. Can you wax over the water-based ceramic spray? You mentioned a way to get more gloss out of the ceramic spray. I’m interested in the protection and getting gloss too on my 2010 original paint that was excellently maintained by the previous owner. It was previously garaged but I don’t have that as an option here in Virginia.
Wouldn't the ceramic just slide off the wax? Seems like the other way round would be better. In the vid, he is applying all to compounded and panel-wiped (i.e. clean!) surfaces.
@@robertheinkel6225 Robert, after my email I did apply the Turtle ceramic spray after waxing. The spray brought out the deepness of the lustre big time. I'm no professional but I have to conclude the ceramic spray after waxing definitely was not redundant. It improved the final product.
New to your channel - very well done! I can't seem to find the tourcher test follow up. I am trying to decide what to use on our boat. Detailers pitch big $$ for ceramic and I am hearing there are blends that may be significantly less expensive. In past we have used straigght carnuba and it lassts about 3-5 months. Is there a blend that you recomend that gives the shine and better protection that does not cost a fortune. quotes on our boat for ceramic are in the $15K range - I am not willing to spend that . Thanks
I’m not so interested in beads but will in suck dust on like a magnet! That is the biggest problem I have. Sure use a car duster cloth to remove it but better to cut off the polar static charge that a lot of products carry like plastics themselves the chemical relative to so many finishes.
I have had 3 MOHs procedures for skin cancer. Auto window tints use ceramic to reduce sun damage...but...we are not allowed to put even clear tint on our windshields. Can you put ceramic on windshields and will it reduce harmful rays from the sun??? Thanks.
Anyone else notice how the untreated panel initially had a solid "puddle" of water, which seemed to prove the point.....but then it sheeted off absolutely perfectly, in a way none of the others did at all. Beads are great for photos, but what you really want is no water sat on your paint.
Key is rinse with water first, then clean with a mild (diluted) detergent using clean soft terry cloth, do not over rub nice and soft, bug residue/ road tar residue should be softer now, repeat mild detergent terry cloth treatment dry with more clean terry cloth. . Treat the surface like you would your skin, nice and easy. Once surface is clean, check with another clean an damp terry cloth, if you feel resistance repeat mild detergent wash. Then, and only then, should you apply wax/ceramic coatings. Also key, try to keep water(rain/fog) from settling on the paint, keep car under cover when ever you can, and wash regularly
The market needs durable fillers, have Walter get on it! Think Poorboy’s Blackhole level filling combined (or stackable) with a 12 month sealant without the fillers dying. Perfect for people trading in cars, shady dealerships, people who hate correcting, people who love tunnel washes, etc.
@@laurapalmerTDGE - They want something that is a durable glaze. The Collinite products typically won't conceal like a true glaze will. The issue with most glazes is their longevity.
@@danlc95 - Indeed, an auto paint glaze primarily aims to quickly provide a glossy finish and conceal surface imperfections. Durability is typically not the main focus of these products. For a clean paint surface, Collinite 845 can indeed mask minor imperfections due to its filling properties. As an alternative to a pure glaze, products like 3D or Meguiar's AIO (All-In-One) can be considered. These products often combine polishing, glossing, and protective features, offering a more versatile approach than traditional glazes. Another option is to polish the paint and then maintain it regularly. However, this requires more effort and time, but the results can be more durable. There are indeed numerous options and approaches available, each with its own pros and cons, depending on budget constraints and the specific needs of the car owner. It's essential to consider personal preferences, available time, and the desired outcome when choosing the right product or approach for paint care.
Anyone remember back around 2003 I think 🤔 advanced auto was pushing Dupont teflon wax? I remember back then it was supposed to be the next huge thing in paint coatings. That stuff was extremely hard to remove, and streaked like crazy. I do wish I had a bottle though still for my collection. Needless to say the teflon wax by Dupont didnt last long in the stores and was stopped being sold within a few years if i remember correctly?
I like to use the spray and wash turtle wax products after every wash. Then once or twice a year I use a more substantial wax staying with turtle wax products. Cheap. Effective and user friendly for someone like me, the average consumer that likes a clean car
I think you missed the MOST Important steps of Ceramic coating. The vehicles needs to be hand washed cleaned of all the road grime 1st meaning use a clean microfiber wash mitt. Next step is to Clay Bar the surface to remove the small particles buried in the clear coat. If they 2 steps are ignored the Ceramic coatings applied will be very hard to clean off properly. Probably doing more harm than any good by not doing a good job of cleaning the surface.
As someone who has to deal with to moderate to heavy dust in my travel/parking areas, static that products leave (or don't leave) is a big deal. Would like to know which products leave a less or more 'static-y' surface.
Great video! I’m thinking of using wax after wash on my Rc. Do you know what happens if I use it on bearings? I want a non sticky surface to protect them from dirt and water. Also do I absolutely have to wipe the Rc car after using wax or can I just spray it on and let it be?
Hey Jimbo, got one for you to do and test Traditional rinse of a prewash snowfoam suggests to blast from the top to bottom I personally for the prewash phase i do not wait for foam to dwell for 5 minutes. Instead i go through as soon as possible am done foaming and blasting the periphery lowest sections ie side skirts and lowest points of front and rear bumper. The logic behind it is those spots will have typically the most dirt by blasting 1st you a) remove a significant amount and b) the gravity introduces additional foam to duel in to the dirt that may have remain. Naturally i move up from down repeating the process. The flats you allow the soaps suggested time to work. And c) my rationale to this is to eliminate as much as possible for the contact step of washing and of course why waste the action potential of the foam to go down the drain literally
@@autodetailingpodcast You welcome, My Name is Hercules by the way. Next up i have is to eliminate the 2 buckets method when you have a pressure washer and a foam lance. Most soaps can generate a ton of creamy foam on a lance is fact. Fact 2 more foam equals to more slickness Fact 3 the solution in the lance remains intact from elements or transferring anything from the mitt to the bucket. The rinse bucket works against us. Yes the heavy particles will go down to bottom. However we neglect that some will float and the phenomenon of liquids to become homogeneous. The additional dips will cause a stir hence a currents similar that to a spoon in side a mug with a dose of instant coffee. The funny part is the counter measure is to simple rinse it with a hose or the lowest setting of the PW with clear fresh water out of them
this is exactly what it says! chemical guys water stain remover really works great at removing it before i was so frustrated every time my car got water spots from being left outside!
It doesn't bother me if the water floods on the surface or beads off ... as long as dirt/dust/grime doesn't stick to the surface then that's what matters to me.
I work as a private label consultant so these products don’t have a brand. But because there has been so much interest I’ll be branding them this year. AutoDetailingPodcast.com/jimbo to get notified.
About to get a restored VW Beetle (light blue) back from the paint shop - two stage paint job. I’ve been told to wait 30 days before applying any ceramic product. Do you agree. And how would you treat a brand new jewel…your Hard as Shell followed by a spray wax after each wash? Really want it to SHINE! And which spray wax (if you can say)?
I usually go by what the painter who is actually painting the car says to wait. IMO I have used Tough As Shell right away without issues. I’d go with tough as Shell as your base and use turtle wax ice spray wax as the topper. You’re gonna have great gloss and slickness. Thanks for the support and good luck with your bug!
@@autodetailingpodcast Thank you so so much for responding. I’ve been watching many more of your videos. Excellent content. Great delivery. You havd an obvious wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
Does any one remember silicone coatings? In 1980 I bought a 280Z new and the dealer had applied a silicone coating , he said you will never have to apply wax again. What a scam it didn't last near as long as a good wax job did.
2 coats of Griots 3 in 1 ceramic carnuba I f8nd definately brings out glow .. and lasts 5 months. personally though I don't like beading I like and x think sheeting is way more important
@JEFFQUICKLE9 Beadmaker absolutely provides high gloss, but it does not even beat Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer or Xtreme Solutions topper or last as long either. It's a good quality product, though. As far as Colonite wax goes, it has to be applied again after a couple washes. That's not great protection. Turtle Wax Seal n Shine or Graphene Flex Wax is a more durable protection. Colonite wax can't hold up to 3 acidic or alkaline washes. that's why I use Griots 3 in 1 because it balances durable with chemical resistance, all while still providing gloss and hydrophobics. plus, it can be diluted as a detail spray. It's nice to have products that do many things well and not just do one thing great but use what you like... there's tons of great products that work 👍
So what happened to the thought about wanting the water to sheet off and basically be clear and dry after, versus the water beading and basically becoming 10s of thousands of magnifying glasses in the sun and causing more damage? 🤔
11 years Idaho salted roads, rocks, deer, dirt, -20f, +105f, pollen, tree sap and I have never once waxed my 2014 Civic with 300k on the clock. Car clear coat looks like new. When I wash the car it look 95% like the day I bought it minus rock chips. With all the money I saved on Gucci waxes, sprays, cleaners etc I can buy a new car.
@@autodetailingpodcast I think they had a few good years 12-15 that were perfect in every way. In 300k all I have had to do is one axle seal and one belt tensioner. I just replaced the plugs at 298k 1 month ago. First time I touched them. They actually did not look bad but one quit working. The car still gets 43mpg and doesnt use any oil on a 7.5k mobil1 change. The 2012-15's were/are a great car. Can't speak for the rest. My 93 chevy truck has peeling clear but they used galavanized body panels and no paint will stick to galvanized. I simply gave it 5 coats of Zep High Traffic Floor Polish and it looks like new again.
Funny thing is, none of these are protecting the paint. Unless your car is from the 1950's. Clear coat was invented in the 70's to do this job. It even has UV blockers. If you really want to have nice looking paint, wash and dry with a soft cloth, then clay bar and lightly wax twice a year. I'll use a wax/detailing spray once in a while. My paint looks like new.
I used MaxL using a foam canister, and rinsing each area and then going onto next area. Problem is, it's left a hazy look to the body of my vehicle and windows. I was able to remove much of this with rubbing alcohol, but you have to be fast -- to dry it before the alcohol itself dries before shipping with soft dry towel. How do I correct this or who do I need to take it to? (Cost? Wichita KS. SUV
if you want to coat the bottom of your boat to help keep algae from sticking to boat or snowblowers etc.do i have to buff the ceramic coating off? will leaving it just dry on there make a thicker more long-lasting coat?
When you say "we all know about the right side of the panel", no I don't know. I tried looking in past vids, but can't find the answer. What is on the right side of the panel next to the 5yr wipe on ceramic? Thank you.
@@autodetailingpodcast But if it has made it through 20 torture tests and still beading, how is that bad for them? Reference is your related torture test vid.
@@autodetailingpodcast Also, I have a 22 F150 that was ceramic coated and though it still beads water and looks clean after wash, it just does not have that slick shiny fresh look that pops a fresh carnauba wax gives. Any suggestions?
@@PapaOates371 For your truck I would wipe it down with a topper or spray ceramic and the slickness will come right back, just needs a little touch up most likely.
I've tried the Maguari's ceramic spay and even put two coats on but i found when it come up for a wash the product is weak and didn't last at all , and this spay on a car then rinse off ceramic spay doesn't really do it for me as i believe that all the panels on the car do not get covered fully and its a bit of a gimmick . I see that there are ceramic spays that you just spay on the car and rinse off but it don't seem right in my opinion. I will soon try the cerakote ceramic coating and see how that performs under normal washing and how that stands up and if it lasts .
I had ceramic pro do a 2 yr guarantee on my prius a couple yrs ago seems silly to spend 2k on a 9 yr old prius, i do love the water sheeting but it needs to be re done on the hood can i put another type on myself?
It’s definitely fluttering right now. It didn’t make the splash ceramic did a few years ago. But it has some benefits, it’s just about figuring out how to communicate those. I think it’s gonna stay. It might just not be the main call out in a product but rather have a supporting role.
Initially the spray wax had a sheeting action when you were spraying control the ceramic does not do this. you changed the spray on the spray wax second time, so it just beaded. Beads are not desirable sheeting is. Not sure who taught you beads are good, but its false. Sheeting with little beading is the best.
You should have (taped off the top portion of the 'wipe on' and 'right' panels) and used the 'spray and rinse ' on that top portion of them both!!! [you said the spray and rinse can be used as a topper' for ceramic coatings for that extra gloss; maybe you didn't because they had not 'cured' enough yet?].
![[#2024MAMA] G-DRAGON - 무제(Untitled, 2014)+POWER+HOME SWEET HOME+뱅뱅뱅+FANTASTIC BABY | Mnet 241123 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ox29z5Nf1Uk/mqdefault.jpg)
I agree on the safety of products being so underrated. We’re working with these products all day and the accumulation of toxins over time is hazardous. This is why I love Sonax products as this is a main priority for them.
Yea.... It's sooooo important in today's society of snowflakes.
@@dontblameme6328 If you don't care about your own safety and not dying of cancer young, fine, but don't try to push that dumb take on others.
@@dontblameme6328yes because caring about potential poisons that could enter your body makes someone a snowflake. Fuck outta here with that hyper-masculine right-wing bullshit lmao. We’ll drop by once in a while as you lay in hospice. 😆
@@dontblameme6328Being a snowflake or not being one doesn't alert the toxicity of substances.
My Toyota is 26 years old. Aside from the lids, the body finish shines like new. I like Mother's. 8yrs ago, I used their 3 step process except I used cleaning wax instead of clay bar, because the 1st step pure polish restored the shine way beyond my expectations, and now I reapply Mother's 3rd step pure carnuba wax every 4 months, well before the wax already on my vehicle wears off the finish. I use Lucas spray wax after each wash. I Rain-X all the glass. Between washes I wipe the pollen and pollution dirt off every 2 days so I don't have to wash my van for a month or more! Keep your car finish slippery and dirt will repel. Re-waxing my van by hand takes me about an hour now that I keep up with protecting the clear coat. Mother's #3 carnuba wax lasts about 6 months. My 23yr old barn rescue Harley shines like new also. Dupont paste Chrome polish makes old chrome brilliantly shine.
Didnt clean my bmw e39 530d for about 9 years, just windshield with ceramic coating twice a year, looking nothing special but I dont care ;)
Lids?
@@blautens RU serious? ROOF AND HOOD The paint is OEM 26yrs old. Never touched. If there wasn't soo much engine close to the hood, the paint would still be good.
@@blautenshats
@@keithhults8986I'm gonna need you to calm down no need to get Randish on the kid.
Big fan of the spritz on after wash ceramic washes.. Meguires Hybrid Ceramic Wax
A major advantage:
It doesn't mess up plastic trim like paste wax! This is huge.. no more wax in crevices etc.. Wipes clean.. can even easily release light stuck specks (bug parts?) on your front.
Ditto Meguires Hybrid Ceramic- 3 years now. 1) Everything Markhall said totally true. 2) If you put too much on, leave it, or rinse it immediately, hard to mess up otherwise 3) Adaptable. Want to wash then dry AND wax? Just try one or two squirts per panel (temptation is strong, hold back!) and you have a magnificently protected paint, moldings, glass (keep off windshield) Want to go halfway? Dry then spray largish panels (half hood) and wipe off with microfiber towel (watch out for labels, they scratch) . Want to go full bore? Pick a 2 by 2 foot area, apply, wipe off, put microfiber in pocket, pull out new microfiber from other pocket, and methodically apply the Hybrid Ceramic.
A catch? Yes! If you are where it rains a lot, it rinses this wax off, but dew in mornings, barely washes it off. However, for garage kept or dry regions, this stuff ROCKS because you can go two MONTHS washing once every two weeks and the water beads just almost as well as when applied.
The value in protecting decals, bright (red) paints, plastics, moldings, from IR and UV sun, from water stains, from tree sap, from road salts, from brake dust, from smog, from noxious car wash soaps and stuff, cannot be underestimated.
20 minutes later, we learned they all bead up and dry off about the same.
excellent summary
Pretty much. But informative for us noobs :)
Thank you.
You got more out of this than me.
I watched it for 5 minutes and saw your comment I decided not to continue watching because he talked too much and didn't get straight to the point :)))
I dislike the bright mirror finishes of ceramics. I feel like I’m driving around in a giant mirror. I use a traditional carnauba paste wax, typically three times a year. It gives a deep finish almost like there’s depth to the finish without the glare. A lot more work but worth it to me.
I agree. Gives a warm hue is the only way I can describe it
Before you start washing your vehicle, park in a shaded area but not under a tree, make sure the car surface is not hot but cool to warm, don't use a Pressure Washer, use a garden hose, use the 2 bucket method. Spray and wet down the vehicle, foam your vehicle, rinse the car, foam again, microfiber mitts soaked and soap, wash from top to bottom, sectioning off each panel, keep the wash mitt fresh by rinsing in cold water, and reapply foam suds and continue cleaning, time to rinse the whole car. Dry the car with slightly damp microfiber towel not a dry one which could scratch, or use a leaf blower which works rather well. Some people like to De-ironize (Iron Remover) their vehicle this is the time to do it. Spray and let set for about 60 to 90 seconds and Do not allow the iron remover to dry, rinse the car, using a clean damp microfiber towel wipe down and dry the car as picking up the iron remover residue. Clay Bar or Decontamination can be done, use a lubricant and always keep the car panel moist and lube, never apply pressure, your clay bar mitt, sponge, towel, or clay should glide nice and easy. Detailing a vehicle is a slow and tedious task. Now the vehicle is ready to put a sealant over the clear coat, waxed and polished. Never allow the polishing pads to become hot and move quickly across the panel evenly, change pads often and reapply the polish. I prefer to do things by hand and not using power tools. Okay, there are numerous Detailing videos. If you apply a real Ceramic Coating, it has a long cure time and you do not want to polish a vehicle that has been Ceramic Coated. Cleaning and protecting your vehicle inside out takes time, Plan on spending 6 hours minimum up to 2 days. Visual inspection of the underbody/undercarriage is time consuming as most vehicle have covers. Look for rust and crevices where water collects, time to clean the underside and near the tires, suspension linkage. Some lubrication may be needed. The outer shell or top areas of the vehicle are easy to maintain, just don't forget the bottom takes a lot of punishment and often neglected.
I am just now learning about detailing. Do you not like the foam cannon with pressure washer?
Foam cannons are amazing, however, especially if misused (intentional or misinformed) power washer can do the most harm in that case. The foam needs a smooth even coverage not blasted out at mach stupid onto the car.
Sooo is this the steps for a Million dollar car or for a Honda accord a little too much detail for something that is a daily driven car and will be washed again every week assuming If it’s someone taking care of their car.
Since when did AI care about detailing cars?
In my neighborhood a guy with a truck washes a lot of my neighbors cars. Several Rolls Royces, Mercedes and the like. All this in the hot desert sun, mid day using hard water. For me, I prefer to have my car sent to a hand wash detail place that uses soft water, shade and a whole lot of care. They charge a lot and I tip a lot for the excellent service. Too bad that after a day or two, the desert dust does a number on my cars that are all black. Oh well - they are just cars and not a lifestyle.
I just use Turtle Wax Hard Shell Cream in a can. It’s easy to apply and remove and beads and shines as good as anything.
$6 a can.
Jimbo, as I'm in my home cellar shop reconditioning my and the wife's summer wheels, I really enjoyed your tutorial here.
Very good points! Good reasons to have a varied selection of products in the quiver depending on needs and results. Keep up the good work. Shine on you crazy diamond!
100%. Thanks for watching and I’m glad these are helpful!
Thanks Jimbo, look forward to your updated cerakote ceramic video.
While it was unfortunate it was taken down I just wanted to tell you how helpful and important such a video was when such coatings performance determine whether we choose to use the coating professionally.
Currently the only media about Cerave ceramic is the ones praising it to be some revolutionary bulletproof coating which is clearly misrepresented.
Thanks for what you do.
Thanks for the support. I really appreciate it and plan to keep doing more of the same.
@@autodetailingpodcast Their response to your video really tells me everything I need to know about that company. Glad I learned who to not buy from.
Can you give me a synopsis of the Cerakote video, what product and what the results were? I never saw it
@@DanielReyes-hz1qk Basically, it got destroyed in the torture test by a few rounds of wheel cleaners.
@@chrisbradley3224 Not all that surprised. I use spray waxes and spray sealants on my powder coated wheels and none of them hold up very long when I use wheel cleaners. I try to rinseless wash my wheels when I can and always make sure to reapply protectant if I end up having to use something stronger
I have ceramic-applied coating on my black truck. I get shine, durability, and ease of cleaning. Just use a ceramic-safe cleaning product, blow dry, and finish with a microfiber. I use CarPro Reset and Reload.
Great video thank you, and love your honesty. Although a good few years old now i really still rate Megs Ultimate Quik Wax, especially for the summer months. All the best from UK.
Phenomenal video backed with real world information. Thank you for taking the time to share.
Glad it was helpful!
i like the griots ceramic spray wax. makes shine a bit and makes water bead/ shedding water off very nice. I wash the car, spray while wet and towel dry. then apply a dry wipe on/wipe off.
Easy-peasy. Never had so many compliments. Car looks great for a very long time. Recommended to a ton of folks. However, it’s not going to give you the protection of a carnuba wax you would get from winter salt and such.
The thing I hate about waterbeads is they tend to dry with dirt in them and I'm left with a white car with a thousand little dirt dots. A flat panel kinda drys it self as the water falls off leaving less water spots
I agree, we need more sheeting effect products vs beading
@@kirkwilson5900 Some 800 grit all over will do that for you, frost the glass as well
You must mean beading after the wash like after a rain. These are all polymers. If you look at a pool with polymers they tend to collect the dirt which helps when going through the pool filter. The new chemicals for pools make maintenance easy. I haven't used the polish materials and there isn't much information on the properties of polymers. I don't like polymers in my pool water as I wonder what coating is going on my body.
Same here, after first rain the car - especially the roof - looks terrible
This is why I wax my car ONCE.....right before I put it up for sale.
The spray and rinse panel, where you first sprayed with water and added the wax, is the best looking panel to me.
| You were absolutely right about the slicker surface, the less durable the protection. I used to think a super slick finish would be best for repelling dust.
When I recently ran out of my usual product and had to switch to something less slick, I was amazed at how much longer it lasted. Now I know it's true.
I seem to recall years ago being pitched water sheeting over beading, because beads leave water spots. Going ceramic because I don’t want to wax every couple months anymore.
I was always told water beads act like a magnifying glass, burning the paint under the bead.
I still feel after all these years that water sheeting is optimal. Beading is fine when only when you can dry it right away. How about when your vehicle is left unattended during a storm?
Yes I don’t understand why they are saying beading is a good thing and water sheeting is bad when water sheeting seems to get the water off without water spots? It’s seem to me that when a new product comes out, we are brain wash to think a bad thing like beading is good leaving all of those water spot on the car and sheeting all the water off is a bad thing.
It's the same thing. If it beads on a flat panel it will sheet off on the sides and with wind. The point of it is that it dries faster
So was the control uncoated? Because I didn't notice a difference between any of the sections at the end!
After all that, still trying to figure out the secrets they DON’T want me to know.
On the far-right panel after the ceramic spray you did something called "levelling." And you did it by hand. What is this procedure? Good video and good idea about just using the hood.
Leveling is basically getting rid of excess coating and/or the carrier chemicals that the coating needs in order to bond to the surface material. Leveling = wiping off with microfiber cloth or pad
Thanks for that 'give and loose' thing, 😉I've enjoyed your honest video!
What happened to pure Carnauba paste ? Tis what I prefer
I've used them all kind of products on my 2010 white diamond CTS from waxes to different ceramic coatings. For the last three years I've been using Meguiar's Ceramic Spray wax when I hand wash with plain water, no soap or car wash detergents. First product I have ever used that you can see the fine scratches fill-in & it doesn't seem to get as dirty even during our nasty Michigan winters. Even the polished 18" OEM wheels look almost like chrome. Owned the Caddy for 12 years, never been through a car wash & the finish looks as good as the day it was built. Gave away all my other polishes, waxes, sealers, etc. No regrets.
As someone that knows diddly.... beads dry into hard water deposits, in my experience. So, why not make it run off instead of beading?
My brother was the detailer in the family for over 30 years. He passed away before passing on the information to a family member. I refinish floors in a Hospital for 15 years and had to pick up the torch and learn detailing. I really appreciate your information It is very informative. But what is leveling in the ceramic you Re talking about?
After you wipe on you will need to remove the excess product. Similar to applying a paste wax and wiping it off.
I mix 2/3 spray wax with 1/3 spray ceramic. Seems to work well for me.
As a lifelong autobody painter ceramic is not all that...when it needs re applying it starts to show spots where more was applied AND its a real pain to paint over.
I like Meguires liquid wax then sprays for qiick maintenance after washing
Bro what? You dont reapply ceramic coatings on top an old layer, you always polish the car first. And before painting you sand the car, you never "paint over" any coating...
Hey man appreciate the honesty in your videos. Something I’ve had a hard time getting an answer for is if you have a base layer whether it’s sealant or ceramic coating how does using a topper “enhance” the underlying costs properties rather than masking them?
If you think of it in layers, putting anything on top of something else would in theory protect what’s under it. Whether it actually happens like that or not could be up for debate.
Ah gotcha. So you’re essentially masking the coating. All the properties whether it’s hydrophobics or whatever will be coming from top layer
IMO most likely. Sometimes the hydrophobic will go away from a coating but you can tell the coating is still there so to get the water to bead again you would add a “topper”. Does that make sense?
@@autodetailingpodcast yes totally thank you.
LOVE THIS CHANNEL FOR THESE COMPARISONS!!!!
Thank you!
Your video has a great point about the give/take of different products.
Can you wax over the water-based ceramic spray? You mentioned a way to get more gloss out of the ceramic spray.
I’m interested in the protection and getting gloss too on my 2010 original paint that was excellently maintained by the previous owner. It was previously garaged but I don’t have that as an option here in Virginia.
You can wax over a ceramic spray but with some products it will change the water behavior.
Is it ok to apply a ceramic spray after a hand-waxing? Does this add anything or is it redundant? Good video.
Wouldn't the ceramic just slide off the wax? Seems like the other way round would be better. In the vid, he is applying all to compounded and panel-wiped (i.e. clean!) surfaces.
I have wondered the same thing
@@robertheinkel6225 Robert, after my email I did apply the Turtle ceramic spray after waxing. The spray brought out the deepness of the lustre big time. I'm no professional but I have to conclude the ceramic spray after waxing definitely was not redundant. It improved the final product.
New to your channel - very well done! I can't seem to find the tourcher test follow up. I am trying to decide what to use on our boat. Detailers pitch big $$ for ceramic and I am hearing there are blends that may be significantly less expensive. In past we have used straigght carnuba and it lassts about 3-5 months. Is there a blend that you recomend that gives the shine and better protection that does not cost a fortune. quotes on our boat for ceramic are in the $15K range - I am not willing to spend that . Thanks
I’m not so interested in beads but will in suck dust on like a magnet! That is the biggest problem I have. Sure use a car duster cloth to remove it but better to cut off the polar static charge that a lot of products carry like plastics themselves the chemical relative to so many finishes.
I have specific chemistry in my products don’t attract dust like the others - jimbosdetailing.com
Thank you yes confused. Are these still considered a sealant? I looked at reviews and saw mcquires fast was good spray and wipe on.
I have had 3 MOHs procedures for skin cancer. Auto window tints use ceramic to reduce sun damage...but...we are not allowed to put even clear tint on our windshields. Can you put ceramic on windshields and will it reduce harmful rays from the sun??? Thanks.
Like 303 graphene..very slick,very hard to apply..after 2-3 months no protection!!! (4 time wash per month,ph neutral shampoo) trash!
Anyone else notice how the untreated panel initially had a solid "puddle" of water, which seemed to prove the point.....but then it sheeted off absolutely perfectly, in a way none of the others did at all.
Beads are great for photos, but what you really want is no water sat on your paint.
Key is rinse with water first, then clean with a mild (diluted) detergent using clean soft terry cloth, do not over rub nice and soft, bug residue/ road tar residue should be softer now, repeat mild detergent terry cloth treatment dry with more clean terry cloth. . Treat the surface like you would your skin, nice and easy. Once surface is clean, check with another clean an damp terry cloth, if you feel resistance repeat mild detergent wash. Then, and only then, should you apply wax/ceramic coatings. Also key, try to keep water(rain/fog) from settling on the paint, keep car under cover when ever you can, and wash regularly
Great video JB, is the wipe on ceramic your version
Yes sir
@@autodetailingpodcast I want to purchase some, is it available already online, or not released yet
@@OGDetailer not yet. Prob around 2 weeks from now
@@autodetailingpodcast Very, very cool, keep me posted💯👌🏿
The market needs durable fillers, have Walter get on it! Think Poorboy’s Blackhole level filling combined (or stackable) with a 12 month sealant without the fillers dying. Perfect for people trading in cars, shady dealerships, people who hate correcting, people who love tunnel washes, etc.
Collinite 845 Liquid or their 476 Paste is what you need as a durable layer / base. Poorboys will not last, the BH is a glaze by the way.
@@laurapalmerTDGE - They want something that is a durable glaze.
The Collinite products typically won't conceal like a true glaze will.
The issue with most glazes is their longevity.
@@danlc95 - Indeed, an auto paint glaze primarily aims to quickly provide a glossy finish and conceal surface imperfections. Durability is typically not the main focus of these products. For a clean paint surface, Collinite 845 can indeed mask minor imperfections due to its filling properties.
As an alternative to a pure glaze, products like 3D or Meguiar's AIO (All-In-One) can be considered. These products often combine polishing, glossing, and protective features, offering a more versatile approach than traditional glazes.
Another option is to polish the paint and then maintain it regularly. However, this requires more effort and time, but the results can be more durable.
There are indeed numerous options and approaches available, each with its own pros and cons, depending on budget constraints and the specific needs of the car owner. It's essential to consider personal preferences, available time, and the desired outcome when choosing the right product or approach for paint care.
🙏thank you man. What is the best product for protection and great glossy look that you can apply outside
Your welcome! This by far is the best - amzn.to/4hSZIXO
Anyone remember back around 2003 I think 🤔 advanced auto was pushing Dupont teflon wax? I remember back then it was supposed to be the next huge thing in paint coatings. That stuff was extremely hard to remove, and streaked like crazy. I do wish I had a bottle though still for my collection. Needless to say the teflon wax by Dupont didnt last long in the stores and was stopped being sold within a few years if i remember correctly?
I like to use the spray and wash turtle wax products after every wash. Then once or twice a year I use a more substantial wax staying with turtle wax products. Cheap. Effective and user friendly for someone like me, the average consumer that likes a clean car
Smart move applying everything except the one thst needed water. I was thinking yoy mist save that for last.
I think you missed the MOST Important steps of Ceramic coating. The vehicles needs to be hand washed cleaned of all the road grime 1st meaning use a clean microfiber wash mitt. Next step is to Clay Bar the surface to remove the small particles buried in the clear coat. If they 2 steps are ignored the Ceramic coatings applied will be very hard to clean off properly. Probably doing more harm than any good by not doing a good job of cleaning the surface.
As someone who has to deal with to moderate to heavy dust in my travel/parking areas, static that products leave (or don't leave) is a big deal. Would like to know which products leave a less or more 'static-y' surface.
waxes will attract more dust, I try to make my products have a charge to them so they wont attract as much dust, but its not always possible.
I just purchased the Hard as Shell for my jet ski, lets see if it really work as I have every dang thing on the market.
Thanks for the support!!
Great video! I’m thinking of using wax after wash on my Rc. Do you know what happens if I use it on bearings? I want a non sticky surface to protect them from dirt and water. Also do I absolutely have to wipe the Rc car after using wax or can I just spray it on and let it be?
Hey Jimbo, got one for you to do and test
Traditional rinse of a prewash snowfoam suggests to blast from the top to bottom
I personally for the prewash phase i do not wait for foam to dwell for 5 minutes. Instead i go through as soon as possible am done foaming and blasting the periphery lowest sections ie side skirts and lowest points of front and rear bumper.
The logic behind it is those spots will have typically the most dirt by blasting 1st you a) remove a significant amount and b) the gravity introduces additional foam to duel in to the dirt that may have remain. Naturally i move up from down repeating the process. The flats you allow the soaps suggested time to work. And c) my rationale to this is to eliminate as much as possible for the contact step of washing and of course why waste the action potential of the foam to go down the drain literally
Good idea. I’ll try it out. Thanks for sharing
@@autodetailingpodcast You welcome, My Name is Hercules by the way.
Next up i have is to eliminate the 2 buckets method when you have a pressure washer and a foam lance.
Most soaps can generate a ton of creamy foam on a lance is fact.
Fact 2 more foam equals to more slickness
Fact 3 the solution in the lance remains intact from elements or transferring anything from the mitt to the bucket.
The rinse bucket works against us. Yes the heavy particles will go down to bottom. However we neglect that some will float and the phenomenon of liquids to become homogeneous. The additional dips will cause a stir hence a currents similar that to a spoon in side a mug with a dose of instant coffee. The funny part is the counter measure is to simple rinse it with a hose or the lowest setting of the PW with clear fresh water out of them
Here’s what I want to know! What happens if you apply the carnauba wax for a deep shine and then apply the ceramic coat over it for durability?
The coating won’t bond to the waxed surface. You would want to do ceramic first then wax on top.
After 10 years I’ve been trying to figure out why these ceramic coating products don’t contain ceramic. 😮
I'm trying to figure out why my ceramic heater does shine like my ceramic vehicle does. 🙂
@@richardr9294 Are you normal?
@mrBDeye are you?
It has …. There is ceramic in it …. Look at the word “ceramic “. Ta da ! There you go 😂
All sorts of funny.
Can I put that ceramic coating on my windshield ? It rains here a lot and the water beading off looks handy.
yes definitely, they do make specific coatings for windshields too.
Why does everyone want water beading? All it does it create an opportunity for hard water spots. I want everything to sheet off as fast as it can.
I agree. The problem is current products don’t really do that
this is exactly what it says! chemical guys water stain remover really works great at removing it before i was so frustrated every time my car got water spots from being left outside!
It doesn't bother me if the water floods on the surface or beads off ... as long as dirt/dust/grime doesn't stick to the surface then that's what matters to me.
100%
new subscriber here, i’m confused why don’t we know what brand products they are
I work as a private label consultant so these products don’t have a brand. But because there has been so much interest I’ll be branding them this year. AutoDetailingPodcast.com/jimbo to get notified.
@@autodetailingpodcastnew sub here aswell from Sydney Australis. I’d be keen at looking at the ceramic coating. And a couple others you have there.
Ill have the ceramic spray coating available by Feb 1. @@vinsdragons8021
Can i use two products on one like first wipe on ceramic coat and then after its dried up like after a week use someother product for the shine
Yes
One issue people miss a lot...ease of use and how the product fits your use case.
100%
You talk about the "glow" when using a carnauba wax. Does this also apply to lighter colors like white or silver?
Yes
Shoutout to Walter 🎉
Haha!
Ceramic coat first then wax on top is the ultimate 👌
About to get a restored VW Beetle (light blue) back from the paint shop - two stage paint job. I’ve been told to wait 30 days before applying any ceramic product. Do you agree. And how would you treat a brand new jewel…your Hard as Shell followed by a spray wax after each wash? Really want it to SHINE! And which spray wax (if you can say)?
I usually go by what the painter who is actually painting the car says to wait. IMO I have used Tough As Shell right away without issues. I’d go with tough as Shell as your base and use turtle wax ice spray wax as the topper. You’re gonna have great gloss and slickness. Thanks for the support and good luck with your bug!
@@autodetailingpodcast Thank you so so much for responding. I’ve been watching many more of your videos. Excellent content. Great delivery. You havd an obvious wealth of knowledge. Thanks for sharing.
Hello Jimbo, do you have a video of leather seating conditioning and the recommended products to restore leather seats damaged by water? Thanks
I don’t currently. It would be a good idea tho.
@@autodetailingpodcast Please do, if I may something that will restore and treat the leather from normal wear and tear. Thanks
Highly recommend Mink Oil. It’s awesome!
What’s the best options to protect against the intense sun in Phoenix
This jimbosdetailing.com/products/the-gloss-boss or this amzn.to/3Sj8J1n
Does any one remember silicone coatings? In 1980 I bought a 280Z new and the dealer had applied a silicone coating , he said you will never have to apply wax again. What a scam it didn't last near as long as a good wax job did.
Dealerships are still doing this.
Great video
Thank you.
2 coats of Griots 3 in 1 ceramic carnuba I f8nd definately brings out glow .. and lasts 5 months. personally though I don't like beading I like and x think sheeting is way more important
@JEFFQUICKLE9 Beadmaker absolutely provides high gloss, but it does not even beat Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer or Xtreme Solutions topper or last as long either. It's a good quality product, though. As far as Colonite wax goes, it has to be applied again after a couple washes. That's not great protection. Turtle Wax Seal n Shine or Graphene Flex Wax is a more durable protection. Colonite wax can't hold up to 3 acidic or alkaline washes. that's why I use Griots 3 in 1 because it balances durable with chemical resistance, all while still providing gloss and hydrophobics. plus, it can be diluted as a detail spray. It's nice to have products that do many things well and not just do one thing great but use what you like... there's tons of great products that work 👍
So what happened to the thought about wanting the water to sheet off and basically be clear and dry after, versus the water beading and basically becoming 10s of thousands of magnifying glasses in the sun and causing more damage? 🤔
I found the best protection for my cars finish is being lucky enough to have a garage.
100%
11 years Idaho salted roads, rocks, deer, dirt, -20f, +105f, pollen, tree sap and I have never once waxed my 2014 Civic with 300k on the clock. Car clear coat looks like new. When I wash the car it look 95% like the day I bought it minus rock chips. With all the money I saved on Gucci waxes, sprays, cleaners etc I can buy a new car.
Surprising considering the issues Honda had in the early 2000s with their failing clears.
@@autodetailingpodcast I think they had a few good years 12-15 that were perfect in every way. In 300k all I have had to do is one axle seal and one belt tensioner. I just replaced the plugs at 298k 1 month ago. First time I touched them. They actually did not look bad but one quit working. The car still gets 43mpg and doesnt use any oil on a 7.5k mobil1 change. The 2012-15's were/are a great car. Can't speak for the rest. My 93 chevy truck has peeling clear but they used galavanized body panels and no paint will stick to galvanized. I simply gave it 5 coats of Zep High Traffic Floor Polish and it looks like new again.
Unless you garage it every day and wash it regularly, I think you're talking nonsense. !
what was the ceramic coat you used here?
jimbosdetailing.com/products/hard-as-shell
Which will work best on the rust spots on the hood and roof of my mid 2000's Toyota?
As in slowing the rust or removing the rust?
@@autodetailingpodcast making the rust more waterproof, ideally one day they will invent a process to remove rust and restore the paint finish.
What about bringing the old paint back to life? new car impression? Isn't that also what they are supposed to do?
Yes, protect your health at all cost
Hello- are you familiar with Torque detail products? This is what I have been using. What are your thoughts on this product line. Thank you
Yes I’m familiar. They’re a mid range in quality and high priced.
What product would you recommend. Thank you
I used to supply them with their ceramic spray coating but they changed for a cheaper product. I suggest this instead - amzn.to/4bi2aDE
I'll stick with Zaino. Thanks for the video.
Funny thing is, none of these are protecting the paint. Unless your car is from the 1950's. Clear coat was invented in the 70's to do this job. It even has UV blockers.
If you really want to have nice looking paint, wash and dry with a soft cloth, then clay bar and lightly wax twice a year. I'll use a wax/detailing spray once in a while.
My paint looks like new.
Can I go through a carwash that has wax and some type of ceramic wash?
I used MaxL using a foam canister, and rinsing each area and then going onto next area. Problem is, it's left a hazy look to the body of my vehicle and windows. I was able to remove much of this with rubbing alcohol, but you have to be fast -- to dry it before the alcohol itself dries before shipping with soft dry towel. How do I correct this or who do I need to take it to? (Cost? Wichita KS. SUV
if you want to coat the bottom of your boat to help keep algae from sticking to boat or snowblowers etc.do i have to buff the ceramic coating off? will leaving it just dry on there make a thicker more long-lasting coat?
It would make it thicker and last longer but you will most likely see the streaks of where you applied it.
Is there a follow up to this?
th-cam.com/video/OmE-1XArSwA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=UFGN9t-PmdYJDbPh
What's on the right side of the panel I don't think you said in either video
I’m releasing it soon. Head to JimbosDetailing.com to get notified about it.
How well would these products work on a boat in a salt water environment?
Super good!
Awesome vid. Subbed! Ill be watching more of these since I just got a black car after swearing them off for last 20 years😂😂
thanks for the sub! Good luck with your black car...here to help!
For newbies like me you need to explain terms like “high points” and “fully prepped”.
My bad. Next time I’ll clarify that.
Are these products from “Walter” coming to market?
Yes, I’m working on 2024 being the year. I’m working towards trying to figure out which product or products would best to bring out first.
What happened to the Ceracote torcher video? I can't find it?
I took it down. I will be redoing it.
@autodetailingpodcast ok, thanks for replying. I'll look out for it.
When you say "we all know about the right side of the panel", no I don't know. I tried looking in past vids, but can't find the answer. What is on the right side of the panel next to the 5yr wipe on ceramic? Thank you.
It was a video I did about the Cerakote ceramic coating that did terrible and I had to take it down because they were gonna sue me.
@@autodetailingpodcast But if it has made it through 20 torture tests and still beading, how is that bad for them? Reference is your related torture test vid.
@@autodetailingpodcast Also, I have a 22 F150 that was ceramic coated and though it still beads water and looks clean after wash, it just does not have that slick shiny fresh look that pops a fresh carnauba wax gives. Any suggestions?
@@PapaOates371 For your truck I would wipe it down with a topper or spray ceramic and the slickness will come right back, just needs a little touch up most likely.
@@autodetailingpodcast
Apparently they (Cerakote)had trouble with the curing phase but have since corrected this issue. Test the new stuff?
Are paint touch-ups problematic with any of these coatings?
You will usually have to remove the coating where you’re looking to touch up.
Can you put a ceramic coating for durability and put a wax on top for the glow?
yes
Can't you put a carnauba over the ceramic to give it that "glow"?
Yes
I've tried the Maguari's ceramic spay and even put two coats on but i found when it come up for a wash the product is weak and didn't last at all , and this spay on a car then rinse off ceramic spay doesn't really do it for me as i believe that all the panels on the car do not get covered fully and its a bit of a gimmick . I see that there are ceramic spays that you just spay on the car and rinse off but it don't seem right in my opinion.
I will soon try the cerakote ceramic coating and see how that performs under normal washing and how that stands up and if it lasts .
Unfortunately, I’ve found the same thing you were talking about to be true. So I’m on a quest to make products better and push our industry forward.
I had ceramic pro do a 2 yr guarantee on my prius a couple yrs ago seems silly to spend 2k on a 9 yr old prius, i do love the water sheeting but it needs to be re done on the hood can i put another type on myself?
Wash properly, clay bar it then reapply it with spray ceramic. So yes.
But after spraying all, the whole surface looks basically the same?
It will eventually all look the same yes. Its just about how long it takes each one to look like that
which of these products contain Graphine oxide?
None.
can you put wax on top of ceramicote??
Yes. It can change the water behavior though depending on the wax.
What about polymers, like Nu finish?
what are your thoughts on "Meguires Hybrid Ceramic Wax"?
I like this better - amzn.to/3Wzy75O
Jimbo, have you done a test on ceramic spray wax with infused graphine. Is it a product that is going to stay around or disappear? Thanks 🇨🇦👍👍
It’s definitely fluttering right now. It didn’t make the splash ceramic did a few years ago. But it has some benefits, it’s just about figuring out how to communicate those. I think it’s gonna stay. It might just not be the main call out in a product but rather have a supporting role.
Thanks and it was a nice way to put it.🇨🇦@@autodetailingpodcast
Initially the spray wax had a sheeting action when you were spraying control the ceramic does not do this. you changed the spray on the spray wax second time, so it just beaded. Beads are not desirable sheeting is. Not sure who taught you beads are good, but its false. Sheeting with little beading is the best.
You should have (taped off the top portion of the 'wipe on' and 'right' panels) and used the 'spray and rinse ' on that top portion of them both!!! [you said the spray and rinse can be used as a topper' for ceramic coatings for that extra gloss; maybe you didn't because they had not 'cured' enough yet?].
Not sure I understand. Everything cured. But it was just an example for base layers of paint protection.