My wife and I built our home from 2022-2023 and I documented every single wall to know I was going to puncture anything after spray foam and Sheetrock. I revert back to my pictures anytime I’m adding anything to the house and it’s been amazing knowing I’m not working blind. Too bad this industry is full of people trying to hurry up and make a dime and get over on people. Good job guys, been following you for several years.
Recommendation on installing a piece that has a sliver holding it together like at 8:58. Use the tape and glue method. On the front of board, run blue tape in the middle of the sliver, from 8” above and below the sliver. Then use scrap 2x4 the same length, run blue tape down it, then glue the 2x4 and board together on the tape. The 2x4 will secure that sliver, and the whole thing will come apart simply because that tape will peel off.
I cannot believe how far this build has gone, been watching since before the concrete was poured. I admire the dedication and professionalism you exhibit in each video and this is something I now look forward to every week! The spacing looks great and I like the little detail of starting on center to make it all flow.
Awesome work guys, been watching forever and these vids are a highlight of my day when they come out. Tonight I was sitting with my 3-year-old and I opened TH-cam to show her a video - this vid was at the top of my feed. She goes, "Wow, that's a beautiful house." Even the next generation is impressed!
First of all, I love your channel and the content. As a Swede, now living in the US, with a decent amount of building experience Ive always been surprised by the standard (In the US) to first put the trim on a house and then butting the external cladding next to it..Why not FIRST put the cladding and then put the trim? The trim would then cover and protect, corners, windows etc. And less need of caulking. Its also faster since the cladding does not need to be measured with the same 100% precission. ( you would not see the protected edges) Let me know your thoughts. Thanks for a great channel.
I was the Fix-it Guy for 120 new homes for a couple years and had to adjust many of what the owners were calling Ghost Doors...interior doors that would either swing open or close by themselves. This home you're building is going to raise property values in the neighborhood.
Looking really good... I can recall when you started what a mud hole and to see this building standing there is such a transformation... and I know there's a lot more to come.
It's always good to take plenty of photos during construction helps with so many things down the road. This is something that most TH-cam construction folks are starting to figure out that having the video of the property in stages is very handy.
It's funny how this garage is a "learning" experience for the guys, yet it looks better than a ton of houses that are built out there by long term builders. Really enjoying the progress, can't wait to see the finished product and the move to the main house... keep it up guys
Now THAT was a “This Old House” intro. And that’s what I LOVE about this channel. I grew up on this old house, and you guys give the same vibe. It’s honestly how I describe the channel to friends and family. Though I guess for the last year it’s mostly been “This NEW House” instead. Haha
I'm not a youtuber, but anytime contracts come in to add rooms or drywall basements in my homes, I always take photos and video of everything behind the wall just in case i want to add things later. Like you, i don't want to drill into anything. build is coming along great guys
That sprayfoam sealing that box is awesome. My old house, I had tons of gekos, not to be confused with GEICO, they ate all insects and such, so I liked them. But my living room switch box, I went to upgrade to zwave switches and it was FILLED with geko poop and egg shells. Cleaned up and such. Sold last year (after owning it for 11 years and it was 6 years prior that I lost cleaned it) replaced zwave with regular switches and it was filled again!!! Lol That wall was an exterior wall and they got in through the stucco weep skreet or some hole somewhere (never could find it, maybe they were in the attic and went down through the wire holes) - house was built in 1984, so there was no such thing as air sealing
My wife and I met you guys at the Builder's Show last year and you were such a great team to meet. Sorry we can't be there this year to see you again, but I would encourage anyone who will be there to check the schedules and make time to go visit the Studpack at HALO. It's fun to be part of a little community that is growing into a mighty one. Nice work this week- have fun in Vegas!
Hello, Great video as always. Having built structures very similar to this one, I am cheering you on. Your batten siding looks great. A little advice (armchair quarterbacking) that may be of help: 1. Pro Framers that install siding always break up complicated pieces like those around your electrical service panels into two (or more) pieces. You will ask, "What do they do with the exposed seams?" and that is an intelligent question. Framers caulk UNDER the edges of the siding's exposed seams. High-end polyurethane or equivalent caulk will easily last 40-50 years under the siding where it is hidden from the sun. They make the exposed seam super tight, and the painters can easily cover it. The finished seam is usually invisible or barely visible. This is more than enough to provide a high quality installation because you would have to KNOW where the seam is to even find it. Also, because you are caulking under the exposed edges of the siding, it will never leak, even after multiple decades. A very important lesson to learn in construction is that you can waste a TON of time trying to produce perfection in different construction phases. In the real world, there is no perfection - perfection is like a mirage in the desert; as soon as you get close to it, it disappears. However, there it is possible to produce high-quality construction projects. The key is to learn the difference between high quality and perfection. Pro framers don't have the time or manpower to mess with too many intricate cuts. If a piece of siding is in a highly visible location, THEN they might cut something really complicated. But is no one is ever going to see it, why waste time on it? 2. As I mentioned in one of your earlier videos, it would be beneficial to upgrade your face masks with charcoal filters. While these are meant for painters, they have the advantage of filtering out very fine particles, and when you cut Hardie-board (fiber cement materials), you produce a ton of fine particles. These "painter's masks" are cheap ($20.00), they last a long time, and they fit securely around your mouth and nose, so no fine particles can enter around the edges. They also are remarkably comfortable protection. Paper masks don't really do a good job of protecting you. 3. You chose, probably, the best material for siding. Properly installed, it will last a lifetime with just paint and caulk maintenance. And if you install it intelligently, you can eliminate most of the caulk maintenance. The key to eliminating caulk maintenance is to caulk under the edges of your siding and trim instead of at the exposed joints. Doing this shields the caulk from the sun, and, as mentioned earlier, it will make your siding maintenance-free as far as caulking.
Same here, I would not mind longer videos. Having done a few videos myself, I do understand a little of what goes into making them. Just keep up the great work on dream build. It is looking great.
Great job, so far looks amazing! 👍 And as always, excellent video! Biggest mistake with piece that fall and broke was - You give 5 to each other, thinking it's in place before it was nailed in place.. 😬 Murphy get You..
Gary Katz is a master door hanger and has a lot of videos on youtube. I learned a great deal from him and one thing I quickly learned; I was installing them wrong! lol
If you used a1X4 or 2X4 and some good double stick tape to attach to the hardy board from top to bottom, it would act like a spine to stiffen the board along its entire length and prevent it from bending back and forth and flexing side to side. It would also enable the person on the bottom to better help hold it upright while the person on the top gets the board fastened down on top. Removing the tape might cause a small amount of surface damage but nothing that the paint will not hide.
Always a good day when I can combine a bike workout while watching a Stud Pack video. Building looks great. Hope you will consider a Benjamin Obdyke Slicker Classic Rainscreen system on the house
I'd recommend running the lexel on the top and sides of all the electrical meter boxes outside. This will keep water out of the top and sides but allow water to drip out of the bottom IF it ever got in there
Going to be closing in a porch soon to make my son a film studio. Board and batten is the way I want to go because I think it will pair well with my tabby stucco siding on the rest of the house. Thanks for the informative video (as always). You are always so clear in your explanations and instructions. I’m a huge fan!
I've heard of measuring twice and cutting once many, many times! I could measure five times or even 10 times and still get it wrong. You guys are doing an outstanding job and I'm glad you went with the 24 on center. The original paint and any future maintenance painting will be a lot easier in addition to the positive Aesthetics!
Incredible work Paul God Bless u an urs Jordan take some moments to appreciate an Embrace what ure doing along ur Father I kno u do but Embrace it not manny of us will ever get a chance like this Father An Son Project that u could tell ur Grandkids one day God Bless all of u 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Curious about the decision to secure the siding directly to the building, rather than create an air gap and bug screen. Seen that detail a few times on The Build Show. Are you guys going to do it the same way on the main house?
Up here in the very wet west coast of Canada we have to do exactly that. Itś called a Rain Screen. Itś a major requirement of the BC Building Code. It came about after we had many new builds experience rot from lack of air flow and no way for water to escape.
As a retired union carpenter ! Assholes and elbows , that’s what the super would say ! That’s all I want to see . When we framed and did finish ? There was never never any wiring or mechanical done until the exterior was completely completely finished .
Stud Pack 🤟- Awesome job. Super excited for y’all. The garage is looking AMAZING!!! I’m sure the WHOLE neighborhood is going to love ❤️ their property price values jumping up with your masterpiece. 👏👏👏. Blessings from NOR⭐️CAL🌲. Stay strong in the word and keep the faith.
One important issue that your Architect might have missed in your wall assembly design is providing channels under your fiber cement siding for any water that gets under the siding to drain to the bottom or evaporate. Typically this is most easily done by installing 1/2" thick vertical battens (you can use treated wood, composites or fiber cement battens) and then mounting the edges of the siding to the vertical battens. This creates vertical channels for any water that gets under the siding to drain out and an air gap that allows any trapped water to evaporate. You probably would want to install vertical battens every 16" OC to add drainage channels to the back of your siding. This will provide plenty of nailing backing to attach your siding to the building, and you can nail your battens to your studs, which are also 16" OC. At the bottom of this wall assembly, you put a metal weep screed (that is rust-proof) at the bottom of your siding, just like those used in stucco wall assemblies. The weep screed has small holes (like an insect screen) in it that keep pests and insects out but still allows water to drain out the bottom of the wall. Typically you caulk the edge of the weep screed to the concrete stemwall, and the other edge fits under the siding, and is caulked to the siding. Since these caulk joints are shielded from the sun, they will last decades. Right now, with your wall assembly, if any water gets under the siding, it has no way of escape. The ZIP board will probably protect your walls from leaking; however, mold can form in the walls if water is trapped. The wall assembly I am describing for you allows the back side of the fiber cement panels to "breathe" and prevents any water buildup behind the panels. This system is a lot more work, but it adds a redundant layer of water protection for your walls, and water can get behind the surface sheathing layer through very small openings. I am a licensed General Contractor in AZ and I will not construct any house without this redundant layer of protection against water infiltration. It costs more, but if it just stops one leak, it will pay for itself a hundred times over. Wall mold and wall leaks are incredibly difficult to diagnose and fix - they literally are hell on earth. It's too late to change your wall assembly for the garage, but you may want to consider this upgrade for your new house. The extra time to install water drainage channels behind your siding is not that much, and it will provide a lifetime of protection from water penetration into your walls under the fiber cement siding. There also is another system being used by stucco contractors. They use a gel-like material and smear it over the wall. Then, they use a notched trowel to create vertical drainage channels every inch or so. This system works well, but I have never used it. There is a third system I saw on Matt Risinger's channel, which is a permeable jell that is more or less painted on the ZIP siding. After it dries you install your fiber cement siding right over the jell - you do not have to create trowel notches. Risinger water-tested it on his channel and it DID effectively drain water out from behind the siding. I was amazed that it worked, but it did. Still, I think I would install battens because I KNOW that they will work every time, everywhere, without fail. On all of these systems, you need a weep screed at the bottom of your walls to prevent pest infestation and to drain out any trapped water. I hope that his suggestion helps you.
I believe what you describe is common in all Norwegian construction. We use treated timber for battens outside our first layer of waterproofing (typically 1") and the siding material. It ensures that everything breaths and dries out properly and no water is ever stuck anywhere. We don't have any insects or pests here that attack the wood like in Texas so we usually only add some metal strips (not sure what they are called in the US) that's designed to prevent mice or rats from entering the wall cavity and call it a day. With the termites I imagine you would need something else.
You are right. They made this house way too tight, especially adding the spray foam. With synthetics you will never see damage undergoing the surface. Venting the siding would have helped. I have used the method you describe using 1/4' lathe every 16' with a screen at the bottom and mount , usually , cedar clapboards here in the NE. I like these guys but they have made some errors in my opinion for the long term.
@@theLARGEKahoona While I agree with you and you are correct, I think you don't understand the background of this General Contractor and his son. The Stud Pack GC host of these videos (I don't know his name) is a wizard at home remodels. He is one of the best remodel GCs I have ever seen, bar none, and I am a licensed GC in AZ. What this GC is not is a custom home builder, and he has honestly said that several times during this project. The Stud Pack crew has been nothing but honest in their videos and their audience - and frankly, that is amazing. This is the first custom home that they have ever built, and they have honestly told everyone that fact. Because they have don't have custom home design experience, they are dealing with a HUGE learning curve here and in my expert opinion, they are doing a hell of a job! The quality of this garage/workshop they are building is very very good. Is it perfect? No. But the quality of their construction techniques is superb in most cases. For their first custom home, they are doing a wonderful job! The Stud Pack crew did the smart thing and hired an architect to help them design this garage. In my opinion, it is the Architect's error, but it is the Architect's responsibility to specify the wall assembly details, and clearly, this Architect did not do the best job with their wall assembly design. But that is as common as dirt with Architects. They often miss important details in their designs, and if you do not have an experienced GC to catch those errors, then substantial problems can occur, accompanied with lawsuits and Registrar of Contractor complaints. I say the Stud Pack crew did a smart thing in hiring an Architect. However, I am not impressed with some of the design details this Architect has missed. The Stud Pack GC in these videos shares insights that are incredibly useful, and I have over 40 years of construction experience. His problem-solving ability and honesty with his clients is second to none. I would bet a million dollars that this man has never had one complaint against his GC license. He is excellent measured by every metric. The Stud Pack crew will learn from this experience and they are on their way to becoming very skilled homebuilders. They have worked hard to get where they are at and they have earned their money honestly and provided a high-quality product. This GC is the only GC I subscribe to on TH-cam. He's that good, and I like him. He dearly loves his son, and he is a hard worker. He deserves our attention, and he has earned my respect.
@@361sasa Yes, that is similar to the backing that Risinger was using in his video. It does work very well with water drainage, he water-tested it with a hose, and the water behind the siding went straight down the main screen and out the bottom of the wall. I was surprised it worked so well. It is fairly expensive, but it is probably cheaper than adding battens.
I recommend a shelf with some extra part like that replacement door sill,lights etc,mark the totes and say 10 years from now you need a replacement and said company is no longer around you have the parts or exact replacement,to many companies nowadays are either bought up or make "Improvements" and design and parts stop being made.
What was the thought process on not taping the door to the zip before trimming it out? Is that overkill? I wish they would build some door frames with a flange similar to the nail flange on the windows that could be easily taped for air sealing. I love what y'all are doing. The garage looks amazing, and y'all have done all the right stuff to make this a killer build.
Cheat the lap siding like you would with wood so that the laps line up with the tops and bottoms of the windows. I’ve done that with Hardiplank and it looks far better than sticking with the default lap… the odd alignment and notches of the default attacks my senses! An 1/8-1/4” variance from the default doesn’t hurt anything…
@@StudPack Maybe make a story pole on the “show side” (i.e., the front) and see how it wraps. The sides are less important than the front… The cheating on the front of both the house and garage can be “blended” in the corner of the garage and bridge if the elevations are off. Compromises for the greater good…
@@joshua_a_boehm It was common until aluminum, vinyl and fiber cement lap siding took over from wood! I live in an area where houses date from the 17th century up until today and wood is rarely used on the new ones... Uniform exposures took over... and not for the betterment of appearance!
Hey Stud Pack! Happy Saturday!! That Arlington box: The place is like 15 minutes from me! That was pretty cool to see! A friend of mine works there, and I showed him the video. :) And - I *think* your Azek is made here in my area too. Not sure about your particular product, but I used to work almost next door to one of the big Azek facilities in Scranton, Pa. As an item of interest - Do you guys have any thoughts as to how much weight is hanging on all those wall joists and framing? LOL The concrete slab HAS to be whimpering! Hearing your question about the order of operations had me thinking to myself. That's really a significant concept..... Something for me to keep in mind. Especially about the siding / exterior work before doing all the interior. I really enjoy hearing / seeing all the detail work. Don't ever feel like you're wasting time there. It might seem like a small thing, but all the big things, are just a collection of small things! :) Lovin' it!
I’ve seen online that people recommend getting the drywall in before the siding, because the weight of the drywall will make the building shift/settle, and if the siding is on first (and is something brittle like cement fiber), the shifting could crack the siding. But that does go against what I’d intuitively want to do.
Correct me if I'm wrong I thought the batten goes inside (first against the zip siding) to provide a nailing surface for the siding and also for water drainage
It's looking great! Anything less than 24" spacing would have looked way too busy. Man, that side wall looked like a bear. Ugh, the board breaking sounds like something that would have happened to me. I was thinking maybe putting a board on it to reinforce might have helped during transfer and setting up, but that might have added ugly holes when removed. Glad you had an extra piece though. Spyder carbide tip kit looks good. I'll have to look for that one. Not seeing the link in the description though. LOL. Doors with glass in them like that are nice for safe neighborhoods. Can't do that in my town because there are too many burglars/meth-heads that would break the glass to get in. Do you have a link to that replaceable sill? Its good to see Rad again. The more the merrier with this team. Very helpful tips on installing the door. I'm going to be installing an exterior door but the floor is not level (whole house slopes) and the frame is not anywhere near square.I'm going to need a lot of shims. LOL. Painting the door black? I suddenly had the "Paint It Black" song in my head. LOL. Will you film anything while in Vegas? I never get to go to those things-- I'm a fulltime caregiver so I don't get to travel.
My wife and I built our home from 2022-2023 and I documented every single wall to know I was going to puncture anything after spray foam and Sheetrock. I revert back to my pictures anytime I’m adding anything to the house and it’s been amazing knowing I’m not working blind.
Too bad this industry is full of people trying to hurry up and make a dime and get over on people.
Good job guys, been following you for several years.
Recommendation on installing a piece that has a sliver holding it together like at 8:58. Use the tape and glue method. On the front of board, run blue tape in the middle of the sliver, from 8” above and below the sliver. Then use scrap 2x4 the same length, run blue tape down it, then glue the 2x4 and board together on the tape. The 2x4 will secure that sliver, and the whole thing will come apart simply because that tape will peel off.
Great idea
brilliant
They should've simply cut it in half and leave a cut line on that sliver.
@@jasenrockHorizontal cut lines in boards are a no-no. Water will get into end grain and the boards will rot.
I'm a older woman, too. It sure is fun watching them do the labor. I learn something occasionally. Keep up the good work!
Stud Pack, u'all nailed-it on the Board and Batten.. 24" was the rite choice. looking great Guy's..
I cannot believe how far this build has gone, been watching since before the concrete was poured. I admire the dedication and professionalism you exhibit in each video and this is something I now look forward to every week! The spacing looks great and I like the little detail of starting on center to make it all flow.
Awesome work guys, been watching forever and these vids are a highlight of my day when they come out.
Tonight I was sitting with my 3-year-old and I opened TH-cam to show her a video - this vid was at the top of my feed. She goes, "Wow, that's a beautiful house." Even the next generation is impressed!
First of all, I love your channel and the content. As a Swede, now living in the US, with a decent amount of building experience Ive always been surprised by the standard (In the US) to first put the trim on a house and then butting the external cladding next to it..Why not FIRST put the cladding and then put the trim? The trim would then cover and protect, corners, windows etc.
And less need of caulking. Its also faster since the cladding does not need to be measured with the same 100% precission. ( you would not see the protected edges) Let me know your thoughts. Thanks for a great channel.
I was the Fix-it Guy for 120 new homes for a couple years and had to adjust many of what the owners were calling Ghost Doors...interior doors that would either swing open or close by themselves. This home you're building is going to raise property values in the neighborhood.
Looking really good... I can recall when you started what a mud hole and to see this building standing there is such a transformation... and I know there's a lot more to come.
Those little animations you threw in turned out really good! Props to the editor! Another classic vid thanks guys
It's always good to take plenty of photos during construction helps with so many things down the road. This is something that most TH-cam construction folks are starting to figure out that having the video of the property in stages is very handy.
It's funny how this garage is a "learning" experience for the guys, yet it looks better than a ton of houses that are built out there by long term builders. Really enjoying the progress, can't wait to see the finished product and the move to the main house... keep it up guys
Now THAT was a “This Old House” intro. And that’s what I LOVE about this channel. I grew up on this old house, and you guys give the same vibe. It’s honestly how I describe the channel to friends and family.
Though I guess for the last year it’s mostly been “This NEW House” instead. Haha
I'm not a youtuber, but anytime contracts come in to add rooms or drywall basements in my homes, I always take photos and video of everything behind the wall just in case i want to add things later. Like you, i don't want to drill into anything.
build is coming along great guys
That sprayfoam sealing that box is awesome. My old house, I had tons of gekos, not to be confused with GEICO, they ate all insects and such, so I liked them. But my living room switch box, I went to upgrade to zwave switches and it was FILLED with geko poop and egg shells. Cleaned up and such. Sold last year (after owning it for 11 years and it was 6 years prior that I lost cleaned it) replaced zwave with regular switches and it was filled again!!! Lol
That wall was an exterior wall and they got in through the stucco weep skreet or some hole somewhere (never could find it, maybe they were in the attic and went down through the wire holes) - house was built in 1984, so there was no such thing as air sealing
My wife and I met you guys at the Builder's Show last year and you were such a great team to meet. Sorry we can't be there this year to see you again, but I would encourage anyone who will be there to check the schedules and make time to go visit the Studpack at HALO. It's fun to be part of a little community that is growing into a mighty one. Nice work this week- have fun in Vegas!
I hope Jordan knows what an amazing Father he has. This Father/ Son duo is my new favorite channel on TH-cam!
The board and batten looks great. The more you do, the more exciting the build is. Great job fellas!
Hello,
Great video as always. Having built structures very similar to this one, I am cheering you on. Your batten siding looks great.
A little advice (armchair quarterbacking) that may be of help:
1. Pro Framers that install siding always break up complicated pieces like those around your electrical service panels into two (or more) pieces. You will ask, "What do they do with the exposed seams?" and that is an intelligent question. Framers caulk UNDER the edges of the siding's exposed seams. High-end polyurethane or equivalent caulk will easily last 40-50 years under the siding where it is hidden from the sun. They make the exposed seam super tight, and the painters can easily cover it. The finished seam is usually invisible or barely visible. This is more than enough to provide a high quality installation because you would have to KNOW where the seam is to even find it. Also, because you are caulking under the exposed edges of the siding, it will never leak, even after multiple decades.
A very important lesson to learn in construction is that you can waste a TON of time trying to produce perfection in different construction phases. In the real world, there is no perfection - perfection is like a mirage in the desert; as soon as you get close to it, it disappears. However, there it is possible to produce high-quality construction projects. The key is to learn the difference between high quality and perfection. Pro framers don't have the time or manpower to mess with too many intricate cuts. If a piece of siding is in a highly visible location, THEN they might cut something really complicated. But is no one is ever going to see it, why waste time on it?
2. As I mentioned in one of your earlier videos, it would be beneficial to upgrade your face masks with charcoal filters. While these are meant for painters, they have the advantage of filtering out very fine particles, and when you cut Hardie-board (fiber cement materials), you produce a ton of fine particles. These "painter's masks" are cheap ($20.00), they last a long time, and they fit securely around your mouth and nose, so no fine particles can enter around the edges. They also are remarkably comfortable protection. Paper masks don't really do a good job of protecting you.
3. You chose, probably, the best material for siding. Properly installed, it will last a lifetime with just paint and caulk maintenance. And if you install it intelligently, you can eliminate most of the caulk maintenance. The key to eliminating caulk maintenance is to caulk under the edges of your siding and trim instead of at the exposed joints. Doing this shields the caulk from the sun, and, as mentioned earlier, it will make your siding maintenance-free as far as caulking.
You guys are good. I learn so much watching! Details are everything. Thanks.😎
Love the caulk gun hanger feature on the old house @15:35 ! lol.
Same here, I would not mind longer videos. Having done a few videos myself, I do understand a little of what goes into making them. Just keep up the great work on dream build. It is looking great.
Great job, so far looks amazing! 👍 And as always, excellent video!
Biggest mistake with piece that fall and broke was - You give 5 to each other, thinking it's in place before it was nailed in place.. 😬 Murphy get You..
😂😂
🤣😂😅
Love the harmonica Jordan! It's a great Saturday morning vibe!
Looking good guys! Almost there and can’t wait to see it painted.
Nice tips on hanging the door level and plumb!
Great video guys. You’re quickly becoming one of my favorite channels. Thank you 🤙
The board and batten looks great! Learned some good tips. Thanks.
Gary Katz is a master door hanger and has a lot of videos on youtube. I learned a great deal from him and one thing I quickly learned; I was installing them wrong! lol
If you used a1X4 or 2X4 and some good double stick tape to attach to the hardy board from top to bottom, it would act like a spine to stiffen the board along its entire length and prevent it from bending back and forth and flexing side to side. It would also enable the person on the bottom to better help hold it upright while the person on the top gets the board fastened down on top.
Removing the tape might cause a small amount of surface damage but nothing that the paint will not hide.
Always a good day when I can combine a bike workout while watching a Stud Pack video. Building looks great. Hope you will consider a Benjamin Obdyke Slicker Classic Rainscreen system on the house
I'd recommend running the lexel on the top and sides of all the electrical meter boxes outside. This will keep water out of the top and sides but allow water to drip out of the bottom IF it ever got in there
The Arlington box we used is flashed to the ZIP, water cannot get in but good advice 💪👍
@@StudPack the meter boxes that is!
Oh ok got it 😁 yeah I was looking at them today thinking the same thing
Going to be closing in a porch soon to make my son a film studio. Board and batten is the way I want to go because I think it will pair well with my tabby stucco siding on the rest of the house. Thanks for the informative video (as always). You are always so clear in your explanations and instructions. I’m a huge fan!
House is looking great guys, I love watching the progress you make each week and how the project is coming together. 👍👍
LETS GOOOOO BOYS! Time to make that thing look like a real home! Stud Pack always showing us how to do it right!
First, beautiful job. Love your commitment to doing everything right.
this has been an incredible ride watching the success of the channel and the bigger and bigger projects smacked out of the park ... grand slams!
Thanks a ton!
What I love about you guys is the realism of the build. Your not afraid to show or admit your mistakes I Love That . Keep up the Amazing JOB !!!!
I've heard of measuring twice and cutting once many, many times! I could measure five times or even 10 times and still get it wrong. You guys are doing an outstanding job and I'm glad you went with the 24 on center. The original paint and any future maintenance painting will be a lot easier in addition to the positive Aesthetics!
Need more dads like you.
Make sure to install anchor screws through the hinges into framing to help support the door
Incredible work Paul God Bless u an urs Jordan take some moments to appreciate an Embrace what ure doing along ur Father I kno u do but Embrace it not manny of us will ever get a chance like this Father An Son Project that u could tell ur Grandkids one day God Bless all of u 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Curious about the decision to secure the siding directly to the building, rather than create an air gap and bug screen. Seen that detail a few times on The Build Show. Are you guys going to do it the same way on the main house?
Up here in the very wet west coast of Canada we have to do exactly that. Itś called a Rain Screen. Itś a major requirement of the BC Building Code. It came about after we had many new builds experience rot from lack of air flow and no way for water to escape.
We'll do a rainscreen on the main house
I'm concern too about the lack of a capillarity break... Water will find its way behind the siding and moisture wont easily dry... well time will tell
Thanks for your video. I relay enjoy the father son relationship you have..
Jordan, your house is going to be (word omitted) BEYOND AWESOME! I'm soooo jealous. 👍
👍❤️👍 Love watching you guys work! The garage apartment looks great!
Excellent work on the content, presentation, and video production ! Love it!
As soon as I saw that piece cut, I said that I would never be able to handle it without breaking. Doing a great job.
Beautiful. Always looking for the next post.
Do something about the mildew growing on the battens before you paint. Love the channel.
Everything looks awesome. I really like that door wow! For $900 that’s a great price as well.
wow! such a great video! I loved the sneak peak at the beginning! that was a nice touch!
Another great video! Glad you went with 24" spacing! It looks fantastic!!
great choice on the 24" spacing. Looks more appealing to the eye because the building is so big :)
As a retired union carpenter ! Assholes and elbows , that’s what the super would say ! That’s all I want to see .
When we framed and did finish ? There was never never any wiring or mechanical done until the exterior was completely completely finished .
Great content, yet again! So much wonderful information and knowledge going into this build. You guys are the best!!
On the door install seems like the pros put the shims above the bottom hinge. It adjusts that gap easier.
" Look how the spray foam "squoze" in there...." "Squoze" , just another word from the New American Studpack-tionary . Priceless !! Good job boys .
Oh my gosh it looks amazing
So cool seeing this house come together. Great work, guys. Gives me lots of confidence in improving my house.
Great progress, gents! Great to have Rad back!
Fun video.....The color looks good as is....Looking forward to the final color choices. Have a good trip!
Amazing details on a beautiful and robust building!👍
yall nailed it spot on!!!!!
It's really starting to look like a home. Man and image this is just the ADU to the future main house 💪🏾
Love the channel guys, lets regular people dream about building robust houses! Thanks for the videos!
On apprend toujours avec vous et dans la bonne humeur!
My favorite build on You Tube!
I like that door hanging method. I'll be trying it on the next job! thanks
I wonder if you could have used your blue tape and superglue trick to make a temporary spine to keep the board from breaking. 😮 love your work!
Stud Pack 🤟- Awesome job. Super excited for y’all. The garage is looking AMAZING!!! I’m sure the WHOLE neighborhood is going to love ❤️ their property price values jumping up with your masterpiece. 👏👏👏. Blessings from NOR⭐️CAL🌲. Stay strong in the word and keep the faith.
One important issue that your Architect might have missed in your wall assembly design is providing channels under your fiber cement siding for any water that gets under the siding to drain to the bottom or evaporate. Typically this is most easily done by installing 1/2" thick vertical battens (you can use treated wood, composites or fiber cement battens) and then mounting the edges of the siding to the vertical battens. This creates vertical channels for any water that gets under the siding to drain out and an air gap that allows any trapped water to evaporate. You probably would want to install vertical battens every 16" OC to add drainage channels to the back of your siding. This will provide plenty of nailing backing to attach your siding to the building, and you can nail your battens to your studs, which are also 16" OC.
At the bottom of this wall assembly, you put a metal weep screed (that is rust-proof) at the bottom of your siding, just like those used in stucco wall assemblies. The weep screed has small holes (like an insect screen) in it that keep pests and insects out but still allows water to drain out the bottom of the wall. Typically you caulk the edge of the weep screed to the concrete stemwall, and the other edge fits under the siding, and is caulked to the siding. Since these caulk joints are shielded from the sun, they will last decades.
Right now, with your wall assembly, if any water gets under the siding, it has no way of escape. The ZIP board will probably protect your walls from leaking; however, mold can form in the walls if water is trapped. The wall assembly I am describing for you allows the back side of the fiber cement panels to "breathe" and prevents any water buildup behind the panels.
This system is a lot more work, but it adds a redundant layer of water protection for your walls, and water can get behind the surface sheathing layer through very small openings. I am a licensed General Contractor in AZ and I will not construct any house without this redundant layer of protection against water infiltration. It costs more, but if it just stops one leak, it will pay for itself a hundred times over. Wall mold and wall leaks are incredibly difficult to diagnose and fix - they literally are hell on earth.
It's too late to change your wall assembly for the garage, but you may want to consider this upgrade for your new house. The extra time to install water drainage channels behind your siding is not that much, and it will provide a lifetime of protection from water penetration into your walls under the fiber cement siding.
There also is another system being used by stucco contractors. They use a gel-like material and smear it over the wall. Then, they use a notched trowel to create vertical drainage channels every inch or so. This system works well, but I have never used it.
There is a third system I saw on Matt Risinger's channel, which is a permeable jell that is more or less painted on the ZIP siding. After it dries you install your fiber cement siding right over the jell - you do not have to create trowel notches. Risinger water-tested it on his channel and it DID effectively drain water out from behind the siding. I was amazed that it worked, but it did. Still, I think I would install battens because I KNOW that they will work every time, everywhere, without fail.
On all of these systems, you need a weep screed at the bottom of your walls to prevent pest infestation and to drain out any trapped water.
I hope that his suggestion helps you.
I believe what you describe is common in all Norwegian construction. We use treated timber for battens outside our first layer of waterproofing (typically 1") and the siding material. It ensures that everything breaths and dries out properly and no water is ever stuck anywhere. We don't have any insects or pests here that attack the wood like in Texas so we usually only add some metal strips (not sure what they are called in the US) that's designed to prevent mice or rats from entering the wall cavity and call it a day. With the termites I imagine you would need something else.
Mortairvent Rainscreen or similar
You are right. They made this house way too tight, especially adding the spray foam. With synthetics you will never see damage undergoing the surface. Venting the siding would have helped. I have used the method you describe using 1/4' lathe every 16' with a screen at the bottom and mount , usually , cedar clapboards here in the NE.
I like these guys but they have made some errors in my opinion for the long term.
@@theLARGEKahoona While I agree with you and you are correct, I think you don't understand the background of this General Contractor and his son. The Stud Pack GC host of these videos (I don't know his name) is a wizard at home remodels. He is one of the best remodel GCs I have ever seen, bar none, and I am a licensed GC in AZ. What this GC is not is a custom home builder, and he has honestly said that several times during this project. The Stud Pack crew has been nothing but honest in their videos and their audience - and frankly, that is amazing. This is the first custom home that they have ever built, and they have honestly told everyone that fact.
Because they have don't have custom home design experience, they are dealing with a HUGE learning curve here and in my expert opinion, they are doing a hell of a job! The quality of this garage/workshop they are building is very very good. Is it perfect? No. But the quality of their construction techniques is superb in most cases. For their first custom home, they are doing a wonderful job!
The Stud Pack crew did the smart thing and hired an architect to help them design this garage. In my opinion, it is the Architect's error, but it is the Architect's responsibility to specify the wall assembly details, and clearly, this Architect did not do the best job with their wall assembly design. But that is as common as dirt with Architects. They often miss important details in their designs, and if you do not have an experienced GC to catch those errors, then substantial problems can occur, accompanied with lawsuits and Registrar of Contractor complaints.
I say the Stud Pack crew did a smart thing in hiring an Architect. However, I am not impressed with some of the design details this Architect has missed.
The Stud Pack GC in these videos shares insights that are incredibly useful, and I have over 40 years of construction experience. His problem-solving ability and honesty with his clients is second to none. I would bet a million dollars that this man has never had one complaint against his GC license. He is excellent measured by every metric.
The Stud Pack crew will learn from this experience and they are on their way to becoming very skilled homebuilders. They have worked hard to get where they are at and they have earned their money honestly and provided a high-quality product. This GC is the only GC I subscribe to on TH-cam. He's that good, and I like him. He dearly loves his son, and he is a hard worker. He deserves our attention, and he has earned my respect.
@@361sasa Yes, that is similar to the backing that Risinger was using in his video. It does work very well with water drainage, he water-tested it with a hose, and the water behind the siding went straight down the main screen and out the bottom of the wall. I was surprised it worked so well. It is fairly expensive, but it is probably cheaper than adding battens.
Thanks. So it's ok to attach siding (wood) directly to the zip system? Can you nail the siding any whee to the zip boards?
Thank you for explaining everything in detail and why!
Looks great! can't hardly wait for the next video
SPECTACULAR BOYS!
Another awesome video! The house is looking sick!
I was waiting for the next video so bad lol I love you guys are amazing
It’s all in the details, looking good. 👍
DId you guys post the video where you installed the exterior electrical boxes? Was looking forward to that one.
Your videos need to be longer. 😂 Call me a weird 74 year old woman, but I’ve watched you for ages!
I’m a crazy 68 yo lady who also watched all the time! I think in a previous life I was a contractor😂😂😂
Same here 😊, love StudPack team ❤.
Okay. I'm calling you weird. LOL
I enjoy watching your videos. I look forward to watching a lot more....thanks for making my days
I’ve got you both beat. 73 year old here. My father could build and repair anything. I think it’s in my blood.
Looking good fellas!!!!!
Can never go wrong with a Studpack video on a Saturday morning. Hope all is well gang❤. Building is looking great
Everything is looking great
Looks great! Endless details. Can’t wait to see it finished. $900 budget door and all lol
Still surprised the garage doors are not on the schedule yet... The look is amazing, nice desing.
I recommend a shelf with some extra part like that replacement door sill,lights etc,mark the totes and say 10 years from now you need a replacement and said company is no longer around you have the parts or exact replacement,to many companies nowadays are either bought up or make "Improvements" and design and parts stop being made.
Rad and Paul are the dream team!
What was the thought process on not taping the door to the zip before trimming it out? Is that overkill? I wish they would build some door frames with a flange similar to the nail flange on the windows that could be easily taped for air sealing. I love what y'all are doing. The garage looks amazing, and y'all have done all the right stuff to make this a killer build.
RAD IS BACK!!! 🔥🔥🔥
Looking good, fellas
With the Electrical/Cables boxes, wouldn't you want to Lexel the top and sides, leaving the bottom open?
15:20 this video just got so much more rad
pun intended
missed you ya nutcase, keep doing dangerous stuff with no fear bro
Cheat the lap siding like you would with wood so that the laps line up with the tops and bottoms of the windows. I’ve done that with Hardiplank and it looks far better than sticking with the default lap… the odd alignment and notches of the default attacks my senses! An 1/8-1/4” variance from the default doesn’t hurt anything…
Seems tough to do and have the corners line up, corners lining up would trump the other stuff imo
@@StudPack Maybe make a story pole on the “show side” (i.e., the front) and see how it wraps. The sides are less important than the front… The cheating on the front of both the house and garage can be “blended” in the corner of the garage and bridge if the elevations are off. Compromises for the greater good…
This practice was common in colonial times.
@@joshua_a_boehm It was common until aluminum, vinyl and fiber cement lap siding took over from wood! I live in an area where houses date from the 17th century up until today and wood is rarely used on the new ones... Uniform exposures took over... and not for the betterment of appearance!
Hey Stud Pack! Happy Saturday!!
That Arlington box: The place is like 15 minutes from me! That was pretty cool to see! A friend of mine works there, and I showed him the video. :) And - I *think* your Azek is made here in my area too. Not sure about your particular product, but I used to work almost next door to one of the big Azek facilities in Scranton, Pa.
As an item of interest - Do you guys have any thoughts as to how much weight is hanging on all those wall joists and framing? LOL The concrete slab HAS to be whimpering!
Hearing your question about the order of operations had me thinking to myself. That's really a significant concept..... Something for me to keep in mind. Especially about the siding / exterior work before doing all the interior.
I really enjoy hearing / seeing all the detail work. Don't ever feel like you're wasting time there. It might seem like a small thing, but all the big things, are just a collection of small things! :)
Lovin' it!
I’ve seen online that people recommend getting the drywall in before the siding, because the weight of the drywall will make the building shift/settle, and if the siding is on first (and is something brittle like cement fiber), the shifting could crack the siding. But that does go against what I’d intuitively want to do.
Thanks Daniel !! The building is very heavy no doubt but I don't think those 16" x 36" grade beams are even feeling it 😂💪
Good call on the board and batten!
sometimes I wonder if jordan and rad were conceived with large amounts of lexel and big stretch
these guys love that stuff so much
Correct me if I'm wrong I thought the batten goes inside (first against the zip siding) to provide a nailing surface for the siding and also for water drainage
House is coming along nicely!
It's looking great! Anything less than 24" spacing would have looked way too busy. Man, that side wall looked like a bear. Ugh, the board breaking sounds like something that would have happened to me. I was thinking maybe putting a board on it to reinforce might have helped during transfer and setting up, but that might have added ugly holes when removed. Glad you had an extra piece though.
Spyder carbide tip kit looks good. I'll have to look for that one. Not seeing the link in the description though. LOL.
Doors with glass in them like that are nice for safe neighborhoods. Can't do that in my town because there are too many burglars/meth-heads that would break the glass to get in.
Do you have a link to that replaceable sill?
Its good to see Rad again. The more the merrier with this team.
Very helpful tips on installing the door. I'm going to be installing an exterior door but the floor is not level (whole house slopes) and the frame is not anywhere near square.I'm going to need a lot of shims. LOL.
Painting the door black? I suddenly had the "Paint It Black" song in my head. LOL.
Will you film anything while in Vegas? I never get to go to those things-- I'm a fulltime caregiver so I don't get to travel.