Very nice. One crucial part of a rebuild of the Pontiac engine is controlling the connecting rod to piston assembly. You explain this at 20:00. I got my connecting rod and piston assembly done by a machine shop and while installing my first connecting rods to the crank i noticed that all rods was installed the same way on the pistons so that one of the rows got the rods facing the wrong direction. The rod bearings on those would most likely bind to the radius on the crankshaft tap.
Just bought the compressor used this summer. You can see some of the details in my video "Upgrades in the Lair". I have to say so far it's been working great. My biggest demand is glass beading and it seems to keep up with steady beading very well. It has the highest SCFM rating I have ever seen on a 60 gal compressor (17.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI). Don't know if it's like HP rating on cars so I have to take them at their word, but no complaints. Two stage compressor is definitely the way to go!!!
I hear ya, those edges are sharp!! I've seen others that are opened and closed like pliers and I think they would be a lot easier to use but these are all I've got. Thanks for the motivation!!
Just a thought. How about rotating the block so that the cylinders are straight up. Another words 6-12 o'clock. That way the connecting rod will always mate with the crankshaft with the help of gravity. Nice engine the 455. Torque Monster!
I learned a tough lesson from my experience with that machine shop!! I will be very specific from now on on what needs to be done and I will not have them do anything I can do myself (installing cam bearings, etc.) I have since found another machine shop and I think they are more reputable but my build has been rife with mistakes and things I have had to redo that were or should have been done by the previous shop!! Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
Earlier in the build I found a nick on the crankshaft that I may have introduced during the blueprinting process and I was taking no chances this time. I wanted to have the ability to guide the connecting rod bolts over the crank journal on every piston!! Thanks for watching!
If you watch other videos of this build (blueprint series) you will see that I have all of those tools and have used them to measure everything. I then used platigage as a second opinion and to demonstrate the use of it. Unfortunately, the machine shop that balanced the connecting rods did terrible work, they ground the ends of the connecting rod studs (ARP) to balance the rods. Thus since all of the lenths are different and on one the dimple was removed I have to use the torque method.
i have a ring compressor like that got 7 stiches from that tool, got home and went right back at it! lookin good man!
Paying attention to detail will have it's own rewards in the end. Nice instructional videos.
Very nice. One crucial part of a rebuild of the Pontiac engine is controlling the connecting rod to piston assembly. You explain this at 20:00. I got my connecting rod and piston assembly done by a machine shop and while installing my first connecting rods to the crank i noticed that all rods was installed the same way on the pistons so that one of the rows got the rods facing the wrong direction. The rod bearings on those would most likely bind to the radius on the crankshaft tap.
Just bought the compressor used this summer. You can see some of the details in my video "Upgrades in the Lair". I have to say so far it's been working great. My biggest demand is glass beading and it seems to keep up with steady beading very well. It has the highest SCFM rating I have ever seen on a 60 gal compressor (17.3 SCFM @ 90 PSI). Don't know if it's like HP rating on cars so I have to take them at their word, but no complaints. Two stage compressor is definitely the way to go!!!
Thanks for making these videos. For me they take me back 40 years to when I built a 400 for my '71 goat. Pontiac makes one stout big block.
I hear ya, those edges are sharp!! I've seen others that are opened and closed like pliers and I think they would be a lot easier to use but these are all I've got.
Thanks for the motivation!!
Quality work your doing there,thanks for shareing.
Hello
Great video! You really allow the viewer a close look! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
Russ
NIce and easy to follow along with you as you described each step. GOod vid.
Really, if you think about it it's what separates success from failure in the shop!
Those marker marks are gonna screw up your compression! lol Great looking build man.
I like that engine stand. Smooth operation. What make is it, if you don't mind sharing? Nice steady work. Will see how she turns out soon.
very good videos man. thanks
Thank you very much, sir!! Thanks for watching!
Just a thought. How about rotating the block so that the cylinders are straight up. Another words 6-12 o'clock. That way the connecting rod will always mate with the crankshaft with the help of gravity. Nice engine the 455. Torque Monster!
Cool. lookin good
Thanks for following along!!
great build great tips...Thanks!
The Caps should be stamped with the numbers on one side top and bottom half on one side that go together to keep them in the right direction.
Thanks John!!
I learned a tough lesson from my experience with that machine shop!! I will be very specific from now on on what needs to be done and I will not have them do anything I can do myself (installing cam bearings, etc.) I have since found another machine shop and I think they are more reputable but my build has been rife with mistakes and things I have had to redo that were or should have been done by the previous shop!! Thanks for watching and commenting!!!
Why have you number on they pistons?
Clevetie77. Good stuff! How ya like that air compressor? I want to replace my 36 year old one. Thanks Ach.
Why so much lube?
Thanx!
Cool
Gotta make the GTO feel at home LOL!!!!
why would u buy no name bearings???
Clevite 77 bearings have been around for decades and have proven themselves to be the very best bearings money can buy, bar none.
Earlier in the build I found a nick on the crankshaft that I may have introduced during the blueprinting process and I was taking no chances this time. I wanted to have the ability to guide the connecting rod bolts over the crank journal on every piston!! Thanks for watching!
If you watch other videos of this build (blueprint series) you will see that I have all of those tools and have used them to measure everything. I then used platigage as a second opinion and to demonstrate the use of it.
Unfortunately, the machine shop that balanced the connecting rods did terrible work, they ground the ends of the connecting rod studs (ARP) to balance the rods. Thus since all of the lenths are different and on one the dimple was removed I have to use the torque method.