Installing Pistons and Connecting Rod Assemblies (Engine Building 101)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video, Brian and Mike from Summit Racing will take you through the entire process of installing your completed piston, piston ring, and connecting rod assemblies into your engine.
Knowing a few tips and tricks, and having the right tools makes this job much easier.
From sopping the bores with ATF oil and applying assembly lube or motor oil to critical parts, to verifying the orientation of your chamfer to match the fillet and crank, Summit Racing’s tech experts walk you through the process of installing your short-block engine’s rotating assembly.
Brian and Mike carefully explain and demonstrate the use of torque angle to torque the connecting rod bolts and show you the tools they believe will help you execute the job with precision and efficiency.
Torque Wrench: www.summitraci...
Great video. It would be nice to see more detail on the ARP rod bolt stretch tool.
Thank you for your feedback!
I really like this kinda stuff. I just ordered more parts from you guys but looks like I still need more tools.
Thank you! We appreciate your business.
Every time I get new parts to install I always always need more tools 😂 can’t have enough
I soak my piston and rod assemblies in a bucket of ATF before installation.
Too much detergent in ATF use break in oil
Would you mind adding the hammer and piston ring compressor link to the description?
If going to their website and looking to find the parts yourself is above you then no tool available can make you smart enough to build an engine.
How heavy is the top engine cover to get to the pistons? Thank you for a great film.
When you install the pistons, how do you go about install the others, do you have to rotate the crankshaft according to which piston is bdc
Made in America. I like that and will be adding the hammer to the shopping cart. Good quick video.
Thank you for watching, Travis!
i wonder how torque spec will work with aftermarket upgrade pistons, port/polish, block decking, valve train, etc.
I wish you had discussed Major and Minor Thrust Side....
why didnt you plastigauge the bearings??? what were your gaps set to on the ringlands? i mean you guys left out so much info.
read the title, probably just making a concise short clip...
Good vid I got 2006 suzuki forenza and I'm wondering are all connecting rods the same?
Hey I'm installing my pistons and my handbook say to have the notch to the front of the motor than to have the flat sides on the rods butt together but I'm not sure how that works cause I have 3 and 5 I'm just not sure with one should have the flat sides opposite if that question makes sense lol
Hi Chris,
The flat side of the connecting rods must be together. The chamfered side always goes to the outside to clear the radii of the rod journal. The pistons need to be orientated to the rods correctly, so the notch on the piston is forward, and the rod chamber is to the outside.
what torque wrench are you using? I seen in a different video that you guys did, you said it was a Summit Racing brand. I looked and I couldnt find any digital torque wrenches at all.
How many pounds in tightening the connecting rod bolt
Do you guys have a stroker kit for a 5.3?
You never want to use ATF it in motor oil are used for two very different things.
Great video and a great education. Thanks for sharing. I learned so much.
Thank you for watching, John!
shouldn't turn the crankshaft before each big end bearing torque !
Excellent, would love to get more tools from guys
Thanks for watching, Alex!
What’s the exact to torque wrench used in the video, I want one.
Torque Wrench: www.summitracing.com/parts/adt-arm303-4a340
First off...very good video!!! : ) I'm 48 and going to be working on my very first engine ever soon and I'm trying to get as much info on it that I can!! Only thing though is... it's a v-twin engine from my 2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 Classic! I've never taken any engine out, put one in, especially one that the transmission is a part of!! Lol. I'm thinking/HOPING it'll be a good starter engine for me because of a lot less parts versus say...a V-8 engine!! Lol. If anyone happens to read this and has some advice for me, that would be really great!! : ) Thanks again for this video and...wish me luck!! Lol...
Question for anyone. At 7:38, he is manually turning the crank by hand and theres some light resistance. I have that and just a tiny bit more hesitating in some spots. Is this normal? I am resusing the same pistons with new rings and bearings and they are very clean and no issues installing them. Seem to rotate smoothly without pistons in it so im guessing its just the rings that need to be broken in once its up and running? My first breakdown and rebuild and everything has been good thus far, just want to make sure a little drag is normal at certian spots. Im assuming its just the new rings but im questioning everything. And yes i used fresh motoroil to install, on the rings, sleeve or bore etc...its mildly lubricated
Take that hand off of the head of the torque wrench!! One hand on the handle!! I see so many improperly using the second hand on the wrench.
Can you explain why please? Honestly just curious
@@kcwyrick7947 it actually changes the torque value. After working in quality in nuclear fuel systems parts manufacturing, that's how we were taught for assembling parts.
@kevin shiley did anyone actually test that theory? Because from a physics standpoint if you're applying a radial force to the wrench head that hand isn't inducing any force that would directly affect the measured torque. I do this all the time with extensions because otherwise it would cause the socket to come off the bolt or nut. Without extensions I can't imagine the radial force would affect friction enough to alter the torque value any significant amount. That's why he's doing it, so he doesn't knock the extension and deep socket off the fastener, potentially damaging it.
@@Sevalecan it's what we were taught in the commercial nuclear parts inspection. Take it from there. I'm not a physicist, but that's what we were instructed. If you watch, so many are introducing a force in the opposite direction the way they hold it, which is actually rotational around a different axis.
@kevin shiley I understand. And this is not a knock against you personally, but old wives tales have been floating around in more than one industry. I think one of the most famous was Fireball Tool testing whether you should ever backdrag a file. After so many people got on his case about it, many having learned it from the Navy, IIRC. Turns out they were all wrong. You get more use out of out of it if you backdrag. He tested it.
Anyway, on the order of several tens of ft-lbs (which these bolts are), you would likely find it difficult to induce a torque more than a few inch pounds on that ratchet head, with your hand radially close to the axis of rotation and the head being smooth making gripping difficult if intended. 50 ft lbs would be 600 inch lbs. Difficult to make more than a 1 or 2% change to that number if you intended to apply torque with that hand. I expect this is likely small compared to other sources of error.
Just my opinion of course. I wouldn't worry too much about it.
How much force was needed to crank the assembly , just installed my summit rods and pistons and takes 65 ft lbs to spin , no heads on
Supposed to start in middle
Sure looks like a Ford
Can someone tell me what the chamfer is please? I’m trying to figure out where my beveled edge needs to face when putting it in the motor. TIA
Thank you for your question. If you are referring to the connecting rod chamfer, they are designed to go against the cheek of each journal that may have a larger radius than the factory. The non-beveled side of each connecting rod would face each other on a journal.
1st
That annoying background noise . .... why?