Dyno results from different sources aren't worth comparing to each other, first thing is the same exact motorcycle on the same day with the same atmospheric conditions will give you entirely different results from different dyno's or even the same dyno with a different operator, you can even play around with the hold down straps and your numbers will change, I've seen tests done where they took a bike that measured 100 RWHP on a dyno and took it 1 mile down the road to another shop, running the same gas in the tank with the same atmospheric conditions it ran 86 RWHP, that's a 14% variation, not exactly definitive, dyno's aren't the etched in stone result's that people think they are. And when someone like Woods Brothers gives numbers for a cam they quite often use an engine that they've done other things like headwork on to make it appear that their "bolt in" cam is superior, you even mentioned that it has one of their own modified carbs on it, you can bet that's not the only thing they did. No one has some huge secret that nobody else has, whether it's in the bolt in class of cams or any of the other's that's designed to work with different levels of modified engine's no matter who makes it the result's are going to be right around the same, nobody has a magic wand. What's far more important is running a good exhaust, anyone who dump's thousands of dollar's into an engine and runs short straight pipes just blew it, a good exhaust is critical to getting the most out of what you're doing, "true duals" are a waste of money and are sold to people who assume that because back in the 70's taking a V8 automobile with a Y-pipe and catalytic converter and having a dual exhaust put on it made it run better then a dual exhaust must be better for everything, that simply isn't true. The cross over pipe in some stock Harley exhausts along with the "married" type used later is there for a reason, Harley knew exactly what they were doing when they designed it, slip on mufflers with the stock headpipe will run much better than wide open pipe's, the odd intake pulses from a 45° engine where both cylinders share a common intake are the reason for that. The best exhaust to run on any Harley except for the true XR style engine with it's design that has a separate carb on each cylinder is a 2 into 1, this is basically what the cross over pipe and married headpipe designs achieve, one cylinder's exhaust helps to scavenge the other cylinder and get the intake charge moving on the "dead" cylinder that has to wait for so many degrees rotation of the flywheels to start it's intake cycle. However some people don't want the look of a 2 into 1 exhaust on some models of bikes so the stock headpipe with slip on's come in a close 2nd, longer drag pipes with inserts like those made by Krome Werks (spelling?) are a decent exhaust to run for someone who want's the drag pipe look, but for God's sake NEVER run wide open pipes, they completely destroy mid range power and only add 1 or 2 HP more on the top end than a good exhaust that increases mid range by 20 to 25% over drag pipes in the mid range, and you have to go through your mid range to get to the top end so it doesn't take a genius to figure out what's going on there. I've seen more people ruin thousands of dollar's worth of work by running drag pipes than I care to remember, I make it perfectly clear to someone that if they plan on running drag pipes I won't waste my time building an engine for them, it's just stupid.
@@jukeboxheros7021 EV27's open and close the valves very quickly and as s result are hard on the valve train, years back Rivera Engineering offered a cam for Pan's and Shovel's that was like the EV 27 that brought on power low in the RPM range by operating and closing the valves quickly and gave a wide powerband like the EV27, they had to quit selling it because it was trashing the valve trains in engine's that were running them, so if you plan on running an EV27 plan on having valve train issues down the road that might include valve float at higher RPM's than a stock ignition's rev limiter will allow. The EV27 is a bolt in cam so no, you don't need adjustable pushrod's, they won't achieve anything except give you the ability to install the cam without having to disassemble the rocker boxes, to do that you have to cut the old one piece pushrod's out, NEVER cut them with an abrasive wheel if you do cut them out, the grit will get through everything, use a set of bolt cutters to cut them and make sure that the valve isn't on it's lobe on the cam when you cut that particular pushrod. As far as putting in replacement lifters it all depends on the condition that the stock one's are in, factory EVO hydraulic lifters are pretty good, I've heard it said that they should be replaced every so many miles but that simply isn't true, the best guide for replacing them is the amount of wear in the bore's of the tappet block's and the tappet bodies, buy yourself a 0 to 1" micrometer that measures down to .0001" (one ten thousands) and a set of small hole or telescoping gauges that are intended to be used in a hole that's the size of the bore in the tappet block, measure the diameter of each tappet and write them down on a piece of paper, then using the small hole or telescoping gauge and the micrometer measure the size of the bore of each one in the tappet block, then subtract the two measurements for each other and see if it fall's into the clearance spec given in the service manual, if it's close to the wear limit then you might want to consider replacing them but it's not necessary. What's of great importance is making sure the fit between the cam gear and the pinion drive gear is correct, a little too loose doesn't hurt a thing except it'll be a little noisy, but tight is practically a death sentence because it'll burn things up, also important is the end clearance, don't ever assume that the shim that's in the engine currently will be the correct one for a cam change, if you have a 6" vernier caliper you can measure the distance from the two shoulders on the cam that determine it's length between it's inner bearing surface and the bushing in the cam cover, if the length of the two are the same or the replacement cam is slightly shorter between those two shoulders you'll be ok AS LONG AS the current cam in it didn't have any end clearance issues, however the best way to check it and verify is to measure the end clearance with a feeler gauge with the lifter blocks out, there's tools that allow you to replace cam's in that style of bottom end without having to remove the tappet block's, if you go that route then you must measure the length of the replacement cam to be assured it'll have end play, no end play will tear things up, if in doubt the least bit then remove the tappet block's and using a feeler gauge verify that the cam end play is in spec, with the tappet block's out you can also check the gear sive without buy a micrometer that measures in that range and the special pins needed to measure the gear, also to properly install the tappet block's once they're out you need the special tool that threads into one of the 1/4" fastener hole's in place of one of the screw's to assure that the tappet rollers are running true on the lobe's, it's a hex drive screw with a long taper to properly align the tappet block's, otherwise it's like having a car's wheels out of alignment going down the road. Also pay close attention to the rotary breather valve end play and make sure it's in spec and that it's timed properly when installing the cam.
Just FYI, I am subbed to at least a dozen and probably more motorcycle channels and THIS ONE, THIS CHANNEL, GIXXERFOO IS my favorite, favorite, channel. No joke! Just letting you know, I love your channel. It’s my favorite because of the tremendous amount of awesome information you give us for free! I learn so much from watching this channel. Thank you!!
Thank you for supporting us! What you said is exactly the reason why I do this, I want to provide what I have learned over the years for free. No mechanic with a cigarette and a beer back in the day ever charged me for watching and asking questions. Unless it was my own bike 😄.
I ran an Andrews EV26, 42mm Mik, aftermarket exhaust, high flow air filter and 50 thou decked heads on my Evo Fatboy. Bike was a rocket. In a head to head race with a new (at the time) 103 Dyna, the 103 couldn't beat my bike. Needless to say, the Harley sales rep riding the 103 wasn't to happy with an old Evo easily keeping up with him (side by side, flat out). Especially as he had a pack of new HOG riders with him! 🙂 My Evo was rock solid reliable, never let me down
Lol the 103 even with a exhaust, air cleaner and a good tune is well, a turd. A cammed Evo being fueled with decked heads literally is going to have 10 to 15 horsepower over the 103, the factory cams are weak.
98 custom softail, it came out of the dealership and was blah, changed the carb, cam, pipes and ignition and the bike woke up and still pulling strong for what it is. Changed all fluids regularly and have never had a problem besides the rear break cylinder which locked up my breaks while going up a mountain. Disconnected them and continued
I am an evo rider. I'm riding a 94 FXR I have always had a fxr evolution.this is my 2nd one. I have all the bolt on crap and a hi proformance heads. Single fire ignition, thunder header exaust,cam and a youst tube in a stock cv carb. I can still chirp rear tire in 3 gear. I have had zero problems with power. This bike is fast. It's only got around 12,000 miles. It handles like a dream. People want to race and I suggest that we race to the coast. It's around an hour and a half ride. I have yet to loose. Evos are plenty fast for me. Only thing left to do is boar it out 5 over.it just has such low mileage I can't justify tearing it down. The only motor I like as much is the panhead. Honestly I have no desire to go any faster than the bike already goes. I may be a bit bias as this is my second FXR and I have had it for 17+years. I have been hit 2 times by teenagers on cell phones. No joke. I fixed everything but it's still been totaled 3 times. So in to a paugho frame with a 2 inch stretch and 2 degree rake. It used to be a cop bike. Even had speedo that said it was a cop bike. That was destroyed along with my foot by first teenager. I love my bike and I just can't bring myself to sell it and get a newer bike. I'm sure that there are other old guys that feel the same about there bikes. I have done so much to it and we have been down so many roads... it's like a good woman, once you find one hold on to her because they are a rare thing to find.as long as you care for her she will do anything for you. That's been my experience anyway. Thanks for letting me put in my 2cents. Really enjoy your channel. Very informative.
Loving these EVO videos and the Shovelhead video was a nice surprise. I’ve got a 93 FLHTP and I went with the EV-27 with S&S pushrods.. S&S steel breather gear... S&S lifters and upgraded Torrington B138 bearing....3 angle valve job..S&S super E and a Thunderheader. Bikes a lot of fun n rides great for what it is
New EV-23 in my '97 Road King. Torque band right where it needs to be on a heavy RK. James gaskets added and discovered it had screaming eagle pistons and ported/polished heads, added bonus! Low miles, ready to rock.
I have been using Andrews cams for about 18 years Both of my evolution motors have them. Ev 23 and Ev 13 . Great for my bike's. Ev13 is a little bit noisy stepper ramps. EV23 comes in a little bit sooner really hard to tell to much different in them. Both are great cams
EV27, adjustable pushrods, mallory ignition,dyna coil and leads, carb/air filter mods, pipes... Big gains, for little money. 60 thou skim and valve job/blending next, for mid 80s Hp. Neat video 👍🏻
wow, the more of your videos on the EVO that I watch, I really want one bad. I am in my early 50's and remember my dad telling me never buy a car that doesn't have a 70's 350 small block, as they were infinitely rebuildable and easy to work on and run forever if you maintain them. The EVO sounds about the same, reliable, easy to work on, and lots of bolt on upgrades. you rock, thanks for all the great videos my friend.
Chris Worthington ran a ev3 in my 1990 FXRS, went with a crane cam with less lift and more duration in my 94 FXLR, wasn’t even close, went back to the ev3. Super Trapp duals, couldn’t bring myself to run 2 into 1. Leaned out a Screaming Eagle carb, SE ignition module. Bikes would run and still pull 2up without having to downshift to get power. And still got 50mpg under normal riding. Man I wish they would bring bake the FXR’s best bike ever made IMHO.
My ole man still runs an SE57 w a mikuni SE carb, VH Longstraightshots, adjustable pushrods, and a Dyna200i programmable ignition, with a tweak to the VOES switch adjuster, and he keeps up with big dog S&S 124" 120hp sidewinder, and some customUltima S&S 130" 125hp(?) Elbruto, and a Screaming Eagle/CVO Breakout with a few Grand worth of work done from the dealership 2014-16? Whatever size an SE CVO V-TWIN on a breakout, each bike was over 150 pounds lighter than his, each operator was about 40 pounds lighter, he was loaded with ammo from a gun show filling the saddlebags, and 2up, me on the Lepera, they took off line they were in a drag race, without warning, he just notched it into cog #2 when he just rolled on the grip a bit, he wasn't full throttle or stretching the gears out, just a couple steps above normal cruising acceleration, and rode right up between them let off and then twisted it up at over a buck, he skinned a layer of rubber off, before they caught up, (to be fair he is a former AMA CCS and WERA Road Racer, Drag Race fanatic, and igrudge match money winner, has a talent and knack for going faster than other bikes of the same class or above, tesrs em up on the strip, on dirt, Sand, Up hills, in snow or on Ice, during freezing rain and snow mixed in the NC Mountains (well he was probably the only knuckledragging nut in the entire state out riding a motorcycle on the treacherous roads, much less a Patriot Red Pearl Super Blingy Chromed out customized Fatboy with 20" apehangers wearing a half lid, on frozen ice covered roads with fresh snow or in some spots quickly freezing rain (near the towns) and not pushy footing around, he was getting looks of wide eyed disbelief from NC State Troopers, with chains on their tires, and old-school seasoned Bikers in pickuptrucks alike, but when he took off, and was all business, (I could tell his ass was locked to the seat like a pit bull, but only when he'd catch a red traffic light.) They were in full blown "Holy Shit Are You Seeing This !?" Mode, I have the video up from right before it started accumulating, Anyway his 80" Evo is about 98-110 hp calculated byv the gross weight, and 1/8mile Speed n ET don't ask speed, all he remembered was the time, and I forget 1/8 mile stuff
I own 2 Evos, my favorite is a 1989 FXSTS punched out to a 3 5/8 bore and screamin eagle heads. I run a V-Thunder 5030 cam and that thing rocks. Much better "pull" than an EV-27 I previously had....Just an FYI. Appreciate your videos.
This here '95 fxd got a ev 27 n a dyna sumtin ignition,and it's tired. Just ordered cylinders, gonna bore em to the smallest oversize bore w wiseco forged dome top pistons😍 and was looking at wood w6h, I mean I kinda wanna wake her up (10.5:1 from 8.5:1),probly johnson hylifts(?). Like whatever those parts together can do,I'm probly stoked on.
I ran a Wood cam/ w6, expensive, but good. After some mods ended with the w8,H. Still an 80" motor. Murdered tires, chains, sprockets, wheels, and clutches Was loads of fun, but too much maintenance. He makes good cams. I would recommend keeping it closer to stock. Good Lord, just noticed this post is 2, count ' em, TWO years old...
EV 27, modified stock carb (polished slide, jets, etc.), indexed plugs, s&s air cleaner, stock wrapped dyna head pipes with my 7/8-2 inch stepped exhaust , 48 tooth rear sprocket, 5 speed close ratio, in a light weight rigid frame. FUN & QUICK!
Andrews EV-27, Sifton 143, and the SE4 are exactly the same grind, if you actually look at the cam specs. Back in the 90's they were generally recognized as the best cam for an otherwise stock Evo, and they tended to be compatible with the stock crankcase breather system. Any other grind tended to give the owner a leg full of oil. Also the Torrington bearing is the older bearing design and the INA bearing was the newer ensign. It was put in by the factory in a misguided attempt to lower the bike's engine noise to comply with EPA standards. Refitting with the older Torrington bearing should be considered mandatory with any cam change.
I rebuilt one of my evo I put a ev27 cam wisaco piston s&s lifters a Jim's 3 hole crank pin flowed heads & a thunder jet carb kit .it flew for a superglid. Plenty of pull & great fun .
My 88 fxstc moves with no issues. I have a w6 cam, mikuni42 carb, s&s lifters, ultima ignition, and adjustable pushrods. Top end is all stock but it goes great. For bolt on stuff it's way different than it was when I got it. Anybody looking for a cam if you can't decide just go w6 it was well worth it.
Adjustable pushrods eliminate the need to remove the rocker arms. Otherwise the fuel tank, rocker boxes and rocker arms need to be removed to access the pushrods to unload the lifters.
I bought a new XL1200S in 1998. Billed as the ‘performance’ version (two plugs/cyl, extra front disc, maybe a tad mor compression) Thought I could spice it up, above and beyond the initial torque grunt. Pipes, jets, filter, host tube. Killed the torque, didn’t add much on top. Actually, still makes power when rev limiter kicks in, at 5500!!! One available for 6300 rpm available, was, but expensive. i gave up. Found out how much Harley’s are different from modern engines, dirt bike engines, etc. I was completely ignorant going in. No youtube in 1998…hard to get info like you can today. Regardless, the bike looks fantastic. Still have that ‘98, still runs great 8000 miles. Still For Sale.
I'd really like to hear what you have to say about the EV46 and how it compares to an EV27 I have a 98 fatboy with step tuned Hooker headers, crane Hi4E ignition, a 42ml mikuni, and an EV46. A comparison against an EV 27 for example on paper would very interesting. Cheers.
I just bought a '96 Wide Glide and it has no history. Will the cam have markings that will tell me if it's stock? Love your channel and informative no bullshit approach! Thanks for any suggestions you have.
I believe the evo was the step above the shovel. I love the shovel's thump. The Evolution engine is a longer lasting in stock form engine than it's predecessor. Basically a longer running engine than the Shovel. However the '84 shovel was close .
Great stuff as always, man. Enjoyed the info. I'm pretty sure mine has been gone into by a previous owner after I discovered it had the S&S ignition and adjustable pushrods. I'm going to get into the nosecone eventually just to see what's been done.
That sucks but comes with the territory, I already uploaded and scheduled my video when I saw your premier that you were pulling out an S&S ignition. Performance parts are what they are though, sometimes you hit a goal and other times they are a pain. Good luck in there! I'll be looking for the video to see what you find!
Look at V-Thunder cams. Excellent cams with soft opening n closing ramps for engine longevity. I ran an Andrews EV-27 and after about 25,000 miles it beat up my cam n one of the lifters to where the tiny needle bearings were coming off the lifter roller. The EV27's fast opening n closing ramps are too aggressive n beat up on your valve train. Eventually damage will occur. That's why I went with Comp Cams V-Thunder series cams because they were specifically designed to be easy on the valve train to increase engine longevity. As far as power n torque, I have no complaints, they do their job well, have a real smooth idle n give you that low po-ta-to, po-ta-to idle that you want to hear. They are awesome cams. You really don't need anything higher than a 520 lift cam with a decent duration to produce good power n work easy on your valve train. Anything higher n the engine fights itself to produce power working against those heavy 200+lb valve spring rates. Something to think about. Live Free Ride Hard
I'd need taller valve springs? (For sure,but what else do I gotta do for a .595" cam? I had a 96" 4x4 s&s sidewinder evo in a bar hopper,that thing had balls!
@@numbskullsknuckleheheads7636 A 595 cam is to big. Yeah, not necessarily taller, but stronger valve springs. This alone will overstress the valve train causing premature wear, n sooner or later damage. That big cam will also require cutting down the valve guide to allow for the added lift so the bottom of the top spring collar n keepers won't hit the top of the valve guide when the valve is opening the valve. It also needs to be cut down enough to allow to install valve guide seals or your engine will burn n smoke oil. By cutting down the valve guide, you are also reducing the length of the valve guide decreasing the amount of support the valve guide gives the valve stem, in essence making it weaker. The movement of the valve will eventually start wallowing out the top of the valve guide. That's why keeping an engine close to stock specs with the biggest "bolt in" cam works best for engine longevity. And you don't necessarily need a higher lift, you just need a moderate lift with a "longer duration" to keep the valve "open longer". You can also machine the heads to accept larger valves (tulips) to minimize the lift of the cam, because a longer duration achieves the same thing with alot less stress n friction on the valve train which equals Horsepower. You may have to figure out which duration cam will work best with the piston stroke to maximize your "swept volume", ie, how much air n fuel the piston will suck in... High compression is not necessarily needed either, unless you're planning on having high octane fuel on hand all the time. 9:1 compression is good for the standard 91-93 octane that's available at the pump. Any higher compression n your engine will run like shit. Your call..
Yeah Mr. Gixxer, your videos are by far the best, and I think you should run for president! But as far as you can video, an important thing that you failed to mention is you not going to get any where near those dyno numbers by just throwing a cam into stock Evo. There’s definitely a few other things you’ll need if you think your even going to come close! Head work if not Screaming Eagle or S&S heads ,you’ll need some performance exhaust preferably something that’s 2 into 1 and a fine tuned carb th
Ev13 in my 97 RK. I bought the bike and it already had it so I can’t say what it felt like before. However, in realistic riding, my buddies don’t pull away from me too bad until we hit 90+ (on the track of course). No idea what cam my 96 wide glide has but it pulls really good (for an Evo), that one has Screamin Eagle heads and idk what else though, I just bought that one a few months ago and no need to pull it down.
Thanks for this video...so much information...have a W6 in my shovelhead.. Now I want one for my fatboy..has Arlen Ness big air plus exhaust...EV27..But it's a boring cam for me...woods are pullers all the way through..again thanks for this ..confirmation its a drop in cam..
I have a Woods W6H planned for my 95 Fatboy. I have Super Sport heads and pistons with stock displacement and 10.1 compression going on it too. Did you have any modifications to get the W6H to fit, like case clearance? Also is it noisy? Thanks
@@brucewilliamson7199 Yes, you will need to grind a small amount of material around the inner cam bearing but that was on an 80in not a 95. Also, make sure your piston "squish" numbers are nice and tight. this will help with fuel mixture and combat "ping". I was able to push my compression up to 10.5: 1 with this setup with no problems and it's been over 6 years. If you build that 95" you are going to have a monster!
1992 FLHTC Fully Dressed ,88 S&S ,S&S Shorty E with a 74 jet , 6.5 Hg VOES, Daytona Twin Tech MSD ignition, Power House 500 Performer cam, S&S Hyd Lifters, Baker 6SP OD(.086) Thunder Header, I've ridden more than a few stock 80" & mine just feels like its more than twice the power. My Buddies with their Twin Cam in Stage 2 & dyno tuned ,their jaws slack & eyes open wide when I pour it on & "Grampa's Bagger" leaves them behind (plus I ride like a wild Animal). Them with their "more Cubes & power/torque" are like WTF you got in there? "just a square Evo" but I've been trying to get more out of the top end "Highway speed , 6th speed ( in OD)low end torque( low RPM 2,000) for the Over Drive, with out Detonation .The EV23 couldn't pull it took it out. I like the idea of that woods cam, I would like to know more . From First to 5th it Spools up like a beast & you better be on open road to run it thru the gears but the OD still seems a bit wimpy to me. what do you think?
i had an 90 fxlr with ev 3 cam,hi4,tuned CV,and white brothers 2-1 it goes to 72hp on the dyno. Today i have an FXDC(92) i had ev27,compu fire,tuned CV,2-2 supertrapp,but it not near what the FXLR was in torque,so i swap the cam to ev3 and hope i can come some closer,i miss my old FXLR it was so well build and never falied,the FXDC had broken inner cam bearing,danmage gear box and the last i had to replace the forward chrank rod bearing and bore my cylinders with new BK 9,5:1 pistons,aaaand im wayting for the summer
I've got a Crane 70004-B and I believe it's a stock profile . Let me tell you though between that cam and the S&S Super E carb when I crack that throttle it gets on down the road !
A little off topic here but what about the cam bearing? I heard that is the weak link in an Evo and it can destroy a motor. Do you know how many miles we should get out of a stock cam bearing?
That is true, the inner cam bearings were known to fail. It does vary but usually Evo's need lifters changed at 40K, that's a opportune time to get that bearing changed to the torrington bearing. Usually they will make it 40K, personally the failures I have seen were above 40K. Every bike is different though and maintenance and riding habits play a big part.
It's not fair to say an evo was not known for power, to put it in perspective, it was a reliable engine, with a broad range of custom style and performance potential, power was adequate but big cubic inch builds weren't as popular because of the conservative approach to casting thickness and limited test to failure research failed to inspire further R&D into stronger and more durable alloys, strengthening by revamping mold dies to tailor an increased casting thickness was omitted and a method to produce a less sand inclusive product. The limited options for increasing displacement options, forced new approaches and wide spread trial and error led to impressive alternative methods for power output gains. One of the most powerful proven mills retained the factory std. bore diameter and stroke, 80" just shy of 130 hp bolt in setup, with reinforced cases and some intake and exhaust port improvements. That's over 3x the factory HP and it ran several passes on the weekends and was a daily cruiser.
another solid evo vid! i think my 95 fxstc has a stock cam im doing research now. if not i may go fueling 518 cam lifters and push rods with new bearing.id really like to find them in a kit not having much luck though.
There's really not any complete kits for the Evo these day, you can get the parts it will just all be separate. Good news is Evo parts cost a lot less than the twin cam kits!
Cams cams cams.....I have a 96 flhtcui that has developed an issue. It's sucking oil out of my primary into my crankcase. My mechanic believes a cracked case is the culprit, although, he's never seen oil migrate from the primary into the crankcase and he's been wrenching on these for 20 + years. It usually goes.the other way. Crankcase to primary. It would have to be a pretty big crack because 28 ounces of oil transferred in just under 10 miles! Anyway. Because of this issue, we, he and I both, decided the best way to go would be to just replace the motor. I found one that was salvaged from a 96 flhpi road king showing 4,230 miles on the odometer. They also state the actual mileage is unknown but the pictures of this motor look extremely clean like a low mileage engine. 2900 and change and it's on its way to me. I think I'd like to upgrade a cam in it but I don't know what would be best for a fuel injected bike. I'm thinking the Andrew's 27 but I really don't know. Either way. I need the thing to quit sucking oil from the primary. That's the big issue.
I have lots EV27 bikes running around out there ! That cam likes some compression add a .030 mls head gasket ! If your only running out to 5500 hang on to the throttle a little longer an EV27 will rev to 6200 all day ! My personal bike goes pretty far past an EV27 I ported my head's added a 1.9 intake valve a 1.630 ex decked .020 has a old set of crane 600 lift springs 10.0 wiseco pistons S&S lifters an a EV59 cam stock bottom end S&S E carb & a thunderheader for exhaust & loves eatin up Twinkie motors & 114 m8 motors my 91 FXR weighs in at 573 lbs !
Disappointed you don't show a dyno graph from the Fueling 518. I happen to be running one. I've got air cleaner and pipes, 9.65:1 CR with S&S HC heads and am running a Delphi(style) conversion. I was running a 547 Fueling cam, but two-up in sixth gear I was constantly shifting between 5th & 6th at my preferred cruising speed of 70 - 80 mph This correlates to about 2700 - 3000 RPM. Fueling shows a graph for the 547 shows a dip in torque at that speed. The fueling site doesn't have a 518 graph either, it does work much better. With the 518 I have the torque to maintain anywhere from 65 mph on up.
I had a 82 shovelhead 96-in s&s s&s super e and I used Chevy 350 roller liftersand only had a problem when I had stock Harley they had one fall apart and take out my oil that's when the Harley mechanic told me about using GM 350 roller lifters don't know if this would work on a eviobut I think I might be something worth checking into lease then you know you can get more than 40,000
That's a very real thing using 350 lifters in a Harley, they are virtually the same except the oiling orfices in the 350 rollers are a bit smaller but everything else is the same.
What would you recommend for a 1995 1200 EVO Sportster? Stock carb & air cleaner, Screaming Eagle slip-ons. Not looking to tear into the motor, just want a little more grunt
Best you could do there without getting the motor would be a jet kit and a open element air cleaner. Start there with the SE exhaust and then upgrade to a different exhaust if you need more.
I would highly suggest an upgrade to the Hammer 1275 running an 883. It's about double the cost of the cam but it will literally double you're power power from the 883 and increase over the 1200's power with stock cams. Using the 883 heads and stock cams is the "vanilla version" but well worth it. With that said, if you just want to do cams on the 883 I would go with the bolt in 570 cams from Hammer. It will give some decent gain but not nearly what the 1275 kit will do for you.
What cam is best for riding hard all the time? I do about 90 on the highway. I use my Harley daily to go to work as well. I kinda wanna say the ev27 but not sure.
thanks for great channel I've done lots of mods thanks to you.s&s claims their adjustable push rods are 32 thread per inch and ask for 4 turns or 24 flats. harley's adjustable push rods are also 32 treads per inch but they ask for 2.5 turns what am i missing here
Hi, Rev Tech 115 (and 125?): these motors are physically wider than the HD Evo and, I believe, the 110 and smaller R/Ts as well - I found this out when changing out an exploded 89" stroker to a FXR. Question: are your HP/ torque numbers always from motor only, (like the published S&S products) OR from the rear wheel? I deduct 15% from motor only numbers? what do you think? Note: R/T 115" comes with Andrews EV 72 cam - a pretty long duration lobe - this motor does it all very well. My 'Tantrum' employs my own 60" WB chassis - 527 lb w/o fuel - motor: S&S 111 - it's much like 115. e
I watch your videos they are great. I have a question. I have a new Harley with 700 miles on it. when the engine is cold it makes a knocking sound, then stops and starts again. Also, the valves are noisy. the bike is actually new. Evolution fxdwg. thank you in advance.
You may have mentioned it somewhere but I probably missed it I am looking for lifters I have a 98 earful. I don’t need anything crazy or expensive but I don’t want to buy cheap cheap do you have any recommendations for an average rider thank you
Jims and Feuling make some good lifters, they are a couple hundred bucks for a set. Check out JP Cycles, RevZilla, Dennis Kirk, they sell them pretty reasonably. You don't want to go super cheap or pay out the butt for OEM.
@@GixxerFoo Yeah I see on eBay what is it the 20 bucks for a set of lifters 30 bucks etc. I just worry about those I don’t have a Lotta money to throw around otherwise I’d probably go with some new a cam ,, One of those Andrews you suggested in your video, in there something I can use my stock pushrods I’ve had a couple of adjustable pushrods failures one came loose another one bent but I know there’s a point you can go to cheap but there’s a point you can go to expensive to thanks for your response
Considering building a 96" evo with the s&s sidewider kit. Which cams do what with the sidewinder kit? Can't seem to find much info on evo big twin performance builds.
Just so you know the 96" sidewinder kit puts you right about 9.6 to 9.7:1 on static compression. If you get head work done to accept the higher lift cam the woods w6h would be an awesome Cam and at that point though you're going to definitely need a S&S Super E.
Yes, you would need a flash tuner if the bikes is new enough with the delphi system. If it's a fuel injected evo the older mag system you would need a power commander 5. Best option would be to have it dyno tuned, flash tuner with auto tune will get you to where the bike runs good and pick up some power. But a good dyno tuner can use their experience to really get some power left on the table!
Hi On a Softail 1999 Night Train FXSTB How do i know the right reference from Timken (Torrington) to replace the INA ? Can anyone please help me on that ? Thanks
@@LuisSilva-wp5kt www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/feuling-inner-camshaft-bearings-for-harley-big-twin-1958-1999?query=10025426&sku_id=10025426 This should get you there!
These horsepower numbers are shameful. Who spends the kind of money HD charges for their bikes for performance this dreadful? (clearly, a whole lot of folks back in the day) Is it any wonder we've become a laughing stock among motorcycle owners?
I get a chuckle out of Harley owners. They spend more time upgrading and repairing their bike and less time riding it. The average Harley rider puts 1800 to 3000 miles on their bike because if they put more it would end up in the shop more often with some expensive repairs. I have 2 Japanese bikes and the most expense I run in too is having tires changed as I ride 14000-16000 miles a year. Working on my 3rd set. When it's time I'll buy another set of new Japanese bikes or used low miles from owner nonriders . My maintenance costs are maybe $1200 /year mostly oil and tires.
Upgrades on my 92 evo: Andrews ev27/490 lift cam, roller rocker arms, single fire ignition, S&S carb with Primo Rivera extened forward intake manifold, Vance & Hines duel exhaust.. 88,432 miles and still running strong..🤘
H-D EVO, best motor the MoCo ever made. Just as explained in the video. Don't try to ask it to do to much, it'll last forever. The Andrews 27 or Crane 310, was always the cam of choice, for bolt-in power & torque.
I run a Andrews EV46 and have done for 30 years or more a Quick Silver cab and Points and have around 85 hp and I have ridden about 280,000kl and 2 rebuilds , I'm smiling because I have photos ha ha , can you tell I'm old ?
Great presentation. I'm running a EV27 in my old 96 bagger. New lifters, cam bearing upgrade, s&s steel breather gear, tuned carb. Yadda yadda runs strong. But what really makes a difference in my experience, was heads ported and polished and valve's 1.9 int. 1.63 ex. Run strong and has been very dependable.
Here's what I did to my '92 Low Rider for 80/80 hp & torque: Branch heads, EV-57 cam, SE manifold & air cleaner, SE push rods, V&H 2:1 Pro Pipe, Mikuni 45mm carb.
EV27 cam, Ness air cleaner, Dyna ignition, street ported heads, and a ThunderHeader exhaust on my 1993 FLHS. Runs great. I'm the second engine (red) on the dyno sheet at 04.40 (he did the work back then), but I had SuperTrapp slipons with 16 disc each at that time. Last dyno was done a year ago at a different shop: 70/80 were the numbers then. Get's low 40 mpg on the interstate at a steady 70 mph. Mid to high 30's around town. Noticeable improvement in roll-on, and two up riding at interstate speeds. No more waiting to get past slow moving trucks/rv's.
What camshaft are you running in your Evo, are you still running the stock cam or have you already upgraded?
Dyno results from different sources aren't worth comparing to each other, first thing is the same exact motorcycle on the same day with the same atmospheric conditions will give you entirely different results from different dyno's or even the same dyno with a different operator, you can even play around with the hold down straps and your numbers will change, I've seen tests done where they took a bike that measured 100 RWHP on a dyno and took it 1 mile down the road to another shop, running the same gas in the tank with the same atmospheric conditions it ran 86 RWHP, that's a 14% variation, not exactly definitive, dyno's aren't the etched in stone result's that people think they are.
And when someone like Woods Brothers gives numbers for a cam they quite often use an engine that they've done other things like headwork on to make it appear that their "bolt in" cam is superior, you even mentioned that it has one of their own modified carbs on it, you can bet that's not the only thing they did.
No one has some huge secret that nobody else has, whether it's in the bolt in class of cams or any of the other's that's designed to work with different levels of modified engine's no matter who makes it the result's are going to be right around the same, nobody has a magic wand.
What's far more important is running a good exhaust, anyone who dump's thousands of dollar's into an engine and runs short straight pipes just blew it, a good exhaust is critical to getting the most out of what you're doing, "true duals" are a waste of money and are sold to people who assume that because back in the 70's taking a V8 automobile with a Y-pipe and catalytic converter and having a dual exhaust put on it made it run better then a dual exhaust must be better for everything, that simply isn't true.
The cross over pipe in some stock Harley exhausts along with the "married" type used later is there for a reason, Harley knew exactly what they were doing when they designed it, slip on mufflers with the stock headpipe will run much better than wide open pipe's, the odd intake pulses from a 45° engine where both cylinders share a common intake are the reason for that.
The best exhaust to run on any Harley except for the true XR style engine with it's design that has a separate carb on each cylinder is a 2 into 1, this is basically what the cross over pipe and married headpipe designs achieve, one cylinder's exhaust helps to scavenge the other cylinder and get the intake charge moving on the "dead" cylinder that has to wait for so many degrees rotation of the flywheels to start it's intake cycle.
However some people don't want the look of a 2 into 1 exhaust on some models of bikes so the stock headpipe with slip on's come in a close 2nd, longer drag pipes with inserts like those made by Krome Werks (spelling?) are a decent exhaust to run for someone who want's the drag pipe look, but for God's sake NEVER run wide open pipes, they completely destroy mid range power and only add 1 or 2 HP more on the top end than a good exhaust that increases mid range by 20 to 25% over drag pipes in the mid range, and you have to go through your mid range to get to the top end so it doesn't take a genius to figure out what's going on there.
I've seen more people ruin thousands of dollar's worth of work by running drag pipes than I care to remember, I make it perfectly clear to someone that if they plan on running drag pipes I won't waste my time building an engine for them, it's just stupid.
im going to go with the ev27 on my 98 fxstc with 17k miles on the clock. should I put adjustable pushrods and lifters aswell? thanks!
Ev27 with a thunder header and s&s super e screaming beagle ignition module. Plugs say she’s happy. Great info thanks. Tom
@@jukeboxheros7021
EV27's open and close the valves very quickly and as s result are hard on the valve train, years back Rivera Engineering offered a cam for Pan's and Shovel's that was like the EV 27 that brought on power low in the RPM range by operating and closing the valves quickly and gave a wide powerband like the EV27, they had to quit selling it because it was trashing the valve trains in engine's that were running them, so if you plan on running an EV27 plan on having valve train issues down the road that might include valve float at higher RPM's than a stock ignition's rev limiter will allow.
The EV27 is a bolt in cam so no, you don't need adjustable pushrod's, they won't achieve anything except give you the ability to install the cam without having to disassemble the rocker boxes, to do that you have to cut the old one piece pushrod's out, NEVER cut them with an abrasive wheel if you do cut them out, the grit will get through everything, use a set of bolt cutters to cut them and make sure that the valve isn't on it's lobe on the cam when you cut that particular pushrod.
As far as putting in replacement lifters it all depends on the condition that the stock one's are in, factory EVO hydraulic lifters are pretty good, I've heard it said that they should be replaced every so many miles but that simply isn't true, the best guide for replacing them is the amount of wear in the bore's of the tappet block's and the tappet bodies, buy yourself a 0 to 1" micrometer that measures down to .0001" (one ten thousands) and a set of small hole or telescoping gauges that are intended to be used in a hole that's the size of the bore in the tappet block, measure the diameter of each tappet and write them down on a piece of paper, then using the small hole or telescoping gauge and the micrometer measure the size of the bore of each one in the tappet block, then subtract the two measurements for each other and see if it fall's into the clearance spec given in the service manual, if it's close to the wear limit then you might want to consider replacing them but it's not necessary.
What's of great importance is making sure the fit between the cam gear and the pinion drive gear is correct, a little too loose doesn't hurt a thing except it'll be a little noisy, but tight is practically a death sentence because it'll burn things up, also important is the end clearance, don't ever assume that the shim that's in the engine currently will be the correct one for a cam change, if you have a 6" vernier caliper you can measure the distance from the two shoulders on the cam that determine it's length between it's inner bearing surface and the bushing in the cam cover, if the length of the two are the same or the replacement cam is slightly shorter between those two shoulders you'll be ok AS LONG AS the current cam in it didn't have any end clearance issues, however the best way to check it and verify is to measure the end clearance with a feeler gauge with the lifter blocks out, there's tools that allow you to replace cam's in that style of bottom end without having to remove the tappet block's, if you go that route then you must measure the length of the replacement cam to be assured it'll have end play, no end play will tear things up, if in doubt the least bit then remove the tappet block's and using a feeler gauge verify that the cam end play is in spec, with the tappet block's out you can also check the gear sive without buy a micrometer that measures in that range and the special pins needed to measure the gear, also to properly install the tappet block's once they're out you need the special tool that threads into one of the 1/4" fastener hole's in place of one of the screw's to assure that the tappet rollers are running true on the lobe's, it's a hex drive screw with a long taper to properly align the tappet block's, otherwise it's like having a car's wheels out of alignment going down the road.
Also pay close attention to the rotary breather valve end play and make sure it's in spec and that it's timed properly when installing the cam.
everything is stock, but the pipes and mikuni 42, thanks
Just FYI, I am subbed to at least a dozen and probably more motorcycle channels and THIS ONE, THIS CHANNEL, GIXXERFOO IS my favorite, favorite, channel. No joke! Just letting you know, I love your channel. It’s my favorite because of the tremendous amount of awesome information you give us for free! I learn so much from watching this channel. Thank you!!
Thank you for supporting us! What you said is exactly the reason why I do this, I want to provide what I have learned over the years for free. No mechanic with a cigarette and a beer back in the day ever charged me for watching and asking questions. Unless it was my own bike 😄.
I ran an Andrews EV26, 42mm Mik, aftermarket exhaust, high flow air filter and 50 thou decked heads on my Evo Fatboy. Bike was a rocket. In a head to head race with a new (at the time) 103 Dyna, the 103 couldn't beat my bike. Needless to say, the Harley sales rep riding the 103 wasn't to happy with an old Evo easily keeping up with him (side by side, flat out). Especially as he had a pack of new HOG riders with him! 🙂 My Evo was rock solid reliable, never let me down
Lol the 103 even with a exhaust, air cleaner and a good tune is well, a turd. A cammed Evo being fueled with decked heads literally is going to have 10 to 15 horsepower over the 103, the factory cams are weak.
@@GixxerFoo and the rider on my Evo (my sales guy) was 50-60Lbs heavier than the guy on the 103 🙂
I put a Crane 310 in mine many years ago. I think it's very similar to the Andrews EV27. Still running great at 98000miles.
That's awesome, those two cams are pretty close to each other.
98 custom softail, it came out of the dealership and was blah, changed the carb, cam, pipes and ignition and the bike woke up and still pulling strong for what it is.
Changed all fluids regularly and have never had a problem besides the rear break cylinder which locked up my breaks while going up a mountain. Disconnected them and continued
I am an evo rider. I'm riding a 94 FXR I have always had a fxr evolution.this is my 2nd one. I have all the bolt on crap and a hi proformance heads. Single fire ignition, thunder header exaust,cam and a youst tube in a stock cv carb. I can still chirp rear tire in 3 gear. I have had zero problems with power. This bike is fast. It's only got around 12,000 miles. It handles like a dream. People want to race and I suggest that we race to the coast. It's around an hour and a half ride. I have yet to loose. Evos are plenty fast for me. Only thing left to do is boar it out 5 over.it just has such low mileage I can't justify tearing it down. The only motor I like as much is the panhead. Honestly I have no desire to go any faster than the bike already goes. I may be a bit bias as this is my second FXR and I have had it for 17+years. I have been hit 2 times by teenagers on cell phones. No joke. I fixed everything but it's still been totaled 3 times. So in to a paugho frame with a 2 inch stretch and 2 degree rake. It used to be a cop bike. Even had speedo that said it was a cop bike. That was destroyed along with my foot by first teenager. I love my bike and I just can't bring myself to sell it and get a newer bike. I'm sure that there are other old guys that feel the same about there bikes. I have done so much to it and we have been down so many roads... it's like a good woman, once you find one hold on to her because they are a rare thing to find.as long as you care for her she will do anything for you. That's been my experience anyway. Thanks for letting me put in my 2cents. Really enjoy your channel. Very informative.
Loving these EVO videos and the Shovelhead video was a nice surprise. I’ve got a 93 FLHTP and I went with the EV-27 with S&S pushrods.. S&S steel breather gear... S&S lifters and upgraded Torrington B138 bearing....3 angle valve job..S&S super E and a Thunderheader. Bikes a lot of fun n rides great for what it is
I had a Crane 296, Screaming Eagle ignition and a Thunderheader. Bike was fun to ride!
New EV-23 in my '97 Road King. Torque band right where it needs to be on a heavy RK. James gaskets added and discovered it had screaming eagle pistons and ported/polished heads, added bonus! Low miles, ready to rock.
I have been using Andrews cams for about 18 years
Both of my evolution motors have them. Ev 23 and Ev 13 . Great for my bike's. Ev13 is a little bit noisy stepper ramps. EV23 comes in a little bit sooner really hard to tell to much different in them. Both are great cams
I had an Andrews EV23 in my ‘94 FXDWG. Loved it combined with my Python III exhaust.
Nice! I bet it had some damn nice lope with that cam and exhaust!
EV27, adjustable pushrods, mallory ignition,dyna coil and leads, carb/air filter mods, pipes... Big gains, for little money. 60 thou skim and valve job/blending next, for mid 80s Hp. Neat video 👍🏻
wow, the more of your videos on the EVO that I watch, I really want one bad. I am in my early 50's and remember my dad telling me never buy a car that doesn't have a 70's 350 small block, as they were infinitely rebuildable and easy to work on and run forever if you maintain them. The EVO sounds about the same, reliable, easy to work on, and lots of bolt on upgrades. you rock, thanks for all the great videos my friend.
Get the Evo, Don't wait, Buy private party.All the good stuff will already be done.
In the mid '80s I put in an Andrews EV3. Boy what a difference! It's the cam the Evo should have had as stock in my humble opinion 😁
Camp's like that are what Harley would have loved to put in from the factory but they have to deal with federal emissions standards.
I had an ev13 in a road king.. perfect power in the usable rpm
Chris Worthington ran a ev3 in my 1990 FXRS, went with a crane cam with less lift and more duration in my 94 FXLR, wasn’t even close, went back to the ev3. Super Trapp duals, couldn’t bring myself to run 2 into 1. Leaned out a Screaming Eagle carb, SE ignition module. Bikes would run and still pull 2up without having to downshift to get power. And still got 50mpg under normal riding. Man I wish they would bring bake the FXR’s best bike ever made IMHO.
The FXR was a hell of a bike, they would sell a ton of them if they brought it back.
My ole man still runs an SE57 w a mikuni SE carb, VH Longstraightshots, adjustable pushrods, and a Dyna200i programmable ignition, with a tweak to the VOES switch adjuster, and he keeps up with big dog S&S 124" 120hp sidewinder, and some customUltima S&S 130" 125hp(?) Elbruto, and a Screaming Eagle/CVO Breakout with a few Grand worth of work done from the dealership 2014-16? Whatever size an SE CVO V-TWIN on a breakout, each bike was over 150 pounds lighter than his, each operator was about 40 pounds lighter, he was loaded with ammo from a gun show filling the saddlebags, and 2up, me on the Lepera, they took off line they were in a drag race, without warning, he just notched it into cog #2 when he just rolled on the grip a bit, he wasn't full throttle or stretching the gears out, just a couple steps above normal cruising acceleration, and rode right up between them let off and then twisted it up at over a buck, he skinned a layer of rubber off, before they caught up, (to be fair he is a former AMA CCS and WERA Road Racer, Drag Race fanatic, and igrudge match money winner, has a talent and knack for going faster than other bikes of the same class or above, tesrs em up on the strip, on dirt, Sand, Up hills, in snow or on Ice, during freezing rain and snow mixed in the NC Mountains (well he was probably the only knuckledragging nut in the entire state out riding a motorcycle on the treacherous roads, much less a Patriot Red Pearl Super Blingy Chromed out customized Fatboy with 20" apehangers wearing a half lid, on frozen ice covered roads with fresh snow or in some spots quickly freezing rain (near the towns) and not pushy footing around, he was getting looks of wide eyed disbelief from NC State Troopers, with chains on their tires, and old-school seasoned Bikers in pickuptrucks alike, but when he took off, and was all business, (I could tell his ass was locked to the seat like a pit bull, but only when he'd catch a red traffic light.) They were in full blown "Holy Shit Are You Seeing This !?" Mode, I have the video up from right before it started accumulating,
Anyway his 80" Evo is about 98-110 hp calculated byv the gross weight, and 1/8mile Speed n ET don't ask speed, all he remembered was the time, and I forget 1/8 mile stuff
I own 2 Evos, my favorite is a 1989 FXSTS punched out to a 3 5/8 bore and screamin eagle heads. I run a V-Thunder 5030 cam and that thing rocks. Much better "pull" than an EV-27 I previously had....Just an FYI. Appreciate your videos.
Thank you, I appreciate it! That 5030 is a lot more aggressive than the EV27, but that bore really gives that cam you have now some room to breathe!
If you've got a CA-spec evo, you're going to be ECSTATIC w/ a cam upgrade!
This here '95 fxd got a ev 27 n a dyna sumtin ignition,and it's tired. Just ordered cylinders, gonna bore em to the smallest oversize bore w wiseco forged dome top pistons😍 and was looking at wood w6h, I mean I kinda wanna wake her up (10.5:1 from 8.5:1),probly johnson hylifts(?). Like whatever those parts together can do,I'm probly stoked on.
I ran a Wood cam/ w6, expensive, but good. After some mods ended with the w8,H. Still an 80" motor. Murdered tires, chains, sprockets, wheels, and clutches Was loads of fun, but too much maintenance. He makes good cams. I would recommend keeping it closer to stock. Good Lord, just noticed this post is 2, count ' em, TWO years old...
EV 27, modified stock carb (polished slide, jets, etc.), indexed plugs, s&s air cleaner, stock wrapped dyna head pipes with my 7/8-2 inch stepped exhaust , 48 tooth rear sprocket, 5 speed close ratio, in a light weight rigid frame. FUN & QUICK!
Andrews EV-27, Sifton 143, and the SE4 are exactly the same grind, if you actually look at the cam specs. Back in the 90's they were generally recognized as the best cam for an otherwise stock Evo, and they tended to be compatible with the stock crankcase breather system. Any other grind tended to give the owner a leg full of oil. Also the Torrington bearing is the older bearing design and the INA bearing was the newer ensign. It was put in by the factory in a misguided attempt to lower the bike's engine noise to comply with EPA standards. Refitting with the older Torrington bearing should be considered mandatory with any cam change.
I have the 27 in mine, I love it it’s got great torque throughout but of course I haven’t tried a 23
27 is the go to Evo cam!
I rebuilt one of my evo I put a ev27 cam wisaco piston s&s lifters a Jim's 3 hole crank pin flowed heads & a thunder jet carb kit .it flew for a superglid. Plenty of pull & great fun .
My 88 fxstc moves with no issues. I have a w6 cam, mikuni42 carb, s&s lifters, ultima ignition, and adjustable pushrods. Top end is all stock but it goes great. For bolt on stuff it's way different than it was when I got it. Anybody looking for a cam if you can't decide just go w6 it was well worth it.
Good cam in an Evo makes a world of difference over stock!
Adjustable pushrods eliminate the need to remove the rocker arms. Otherwise the fuel tank, rocker boxes and rocker arms need to be removed to access the pushrods to unload the lifters.
97 WG
Ev23, Mikuni, pipes. Happy days!
I bought a new XL1200S in 1998. Billed as the ‘performance’ version (two plugs/cyl, extra front disc, maybe a tad mor compression) Thought I could spice it up, above and beyond the initial torque grunt. Pipes, jets, filter, host tube. Killed the torque, didn’t add much on top. Actually, still makes power when rev limiter kicks in, at 5500!!! One available for 6300 rpm available, was, but expensive. i gave up. Found out how much Harley’s are different from modern engines, dirt bike engines, etc. I was completely ignorant going in. No youtube in 1998…hard to get info like you can today. Regardless, the bike looks fantastic. Still have that ‘98, still runs great 8000 miles. Still For Sale.
Really glad to here you talk about a decent harley for a change
I'd really like to hear what you have to say about the EV46 and how it compares to an EV27
I have a 98 fatboy with step tuned Hooker headers, crane Hi4E ignition, a 42ml mikuni, and an EV46. A comparison against an EV 27 for example on paper would very interesting. Cheers.
I just bought a '96 Wide Glide and it has no history. Will the cam have markings that will tell me if it's stock? Love your channel and informative no bullshit approach! Thanks for any suggestions you have.
Another great, and easy to follow HD technical video by the Foo man! Well done.
I believe the evo was the step above the shovel. I love the shovel's thump. The Evolution engine is a longer lasting in stock form engine than it's predecessor. Basically a longer running engine than the Shovel. However the '84 shovel was close .
Great stuff as always, man. Enjoyed the info. I'm pretty sure mine has been gone into by a previous owner after I discovered it had the S&S ignition and adjustable pushrods. I'm going to get into the nosecone eventually just to see what's been done.
That sucks but comes with the territory, I already uploaded and scheduled my video when I saw your premier that you were pulling out an S&S ignition. Performance parts are what they are though, sometimes you hit a goal and other times they are a pain. Good luck in there! I'll be looking for the video to see what you find!
Look at V-Thunder cams.
Excellent cams with soft opening n closing ramps for engine longevity.
I ran an Andrews EV-27 and after about 25,000 miles it beat up my cam n one of the lifters to where the tiny needle bearings were coming off the lifter roller. The EV27's fast opening n closing ramps are too aggressive n beat up on your valve train. Eventually damage will occur.
That's why I went with Comp Cams V-Thunder series cams because they were specifically designed to be easy on the valve train to increase engine longevity. As far as power n torque, I have no complaints, they do their job
well, have a real smooth idle n give you that low po-ta-to, po-ta-to idle that you want to hear. They are awesome cams. You really don't need anything higher than a 520 lift cam with a decent duration to produce good power
n work easy on your valve train. Anything higher n the engine fights itself to produce power working against those heavy 200+lb
valve spring rates. Something to think about.
Live Free
Ride Hard
I'd need taller valve springs? (For sure,but what else do I gotta do for a .595" cam? I had a 96" 4x4 s&s sidewinder evo in a bar hopper,that thing had balls!
@@numbskullsknuckleheheads7636
A 595 cam is to big. Yeah, not necessarily taller, but stronger valve springs. This alone will overstress the valve train causing premature wear, n sooner or later damage.
That big cam will also require cutting down the valve guide to allow for the added lift so the bottom of the top spring collar n keepers won't hit the top of the valve guide when the valve is opening the valve. It also needs to be cut down enough to allow to install valve guide seals or your engine will burn n smoke oil. By cutting down the valve guide, you are also reducing the length of the valve guide decreasing the amount of support the valve guide gives the valve stem, in essence making it weaker. The movement of the valve will eventually start wallowing out the top of the valve guide. That's why keeping an engine close to stock specs with the biggest "bolt in" cam works best for engine longevity. And you don't necessarily need a higher lift, you just need a moderate lift with a "longer duration" to keep the valve "open longer". You can also machine the heads to accept larger valves (tulips) to minimize the lift of the cam, because a longer duration achieves the same thing with alot less stress n friction on the valve train which equals Horsepower. You may have to figure out which duration cam will work best with the piston stroke to maximize your "swept volume", ie, how much air n fuel the piston will suck in... High compression is not necessarily needed either, unless you're planning on having high octane fuel on hand all the time. 9:1 compression is good for the standard 91-93 octane that's available at the pump. Any higher compression n your engine will run like shit. Your call..
I've been running an Andrews EV46. I don't know if they still make it or not.
I run that also. That is a GOOD cam with a higher comptession ratio.
Yeah Mr. Gixxer, your videos are by far the best, and I think you should run for president! But as far as you can video, an important thing that you failed to mention is you not going to get any where near those dyno numbers by just throwing a cam into stock Evo. There’s definitely a few other things you’ll need if you think your even going to come close! Head work if not Screaming Eagle or S&S heads ,you’ll need some performance exhaust preferably something that’s 2 into 1 and a fine tuned carb th
Ev13 in my 97 RK. I bought the bike and it already had it so I can’t say what it felt like before. However, in realistic riding, my buddies don’t pull away from me too bad until we hit 90+ (on the track of course). No idea what cam my 96 wide glide has but it pulls really good (for an Evo), that one has Screamin Eagle heads and idk what else though, I just bought that one a few months ago and no need to pull it down.
Thanks for this video...so much information...have a W6 in my shovelhead..
Now I want one for my fatboy..has Arlen Ness big air plus exhaust...EV27..But it's a boring cam for me...woods are pullers all the way through..again thanks for this ..confirmation its a drop in cam..
Woods w6h at 10.5 to 1 . 106tq and 100hp
I have a Woods W6H planned for my 95 Fatboy. I have Super Sport heads and pistons with stock displacement and 10.1 compression going on it too. Did you have any modifications to get the W6H to fit, like case clearance? Also is it noisy? Thanks
@@brucewilliamson7199 Yes, you will need to grind a small amount of material around the inner cam bearing but that was on an 80in not a 95. Also, make sure your piston "squish" numbers are nice and tight. this will help with fuel mixture and combat "ping". I was able to push my compression up to 10.5: 1 with this setup with no problems and it's been over 6 years. If you build that 95" you are going to have a monster!
Good video! Love the evo, run ev27 myself. You should do a video on exhaust as well :) Keep it up!!
Me too, ev27
1992 FLHTC Fully Dressed ,88 S&S ,S&S Shorty E with a 74 jet , 6.5 Hg VOES, Daytona Twin Tech MSD ignition, Power House 500 Performer cam, S&S Hyd Lifters, Baker 6SP OD(.086) Thunder Header, I've ridden more than a few stock 80" & mine just feels like its more than twice the power. My Buddies with their Twin Cam in Stage 2 & dyno tuned ,their jaws slack & eyes open wide when I pour it on & "Grampa's Bagger" leaves them behind (plus I ride like a wild Animal). Them with their "more Cubes & power/torque" are like WTF you got in there? "just a square Evo" but I've been trying to get more out of the top end "Highway speed , 6th speed ( in OD)low end torque( low RPM 2,000) for the Over Drive, with out Detonation .The EV23 couldn't pull it took it out. I like the idea of that woods cam, I would like to know more . From First to 5th it Spools up like a beast & you better be on open road to run it thru the gears but the OD still seems a bit wimpy to me. what do you think?
i had an 90 fxlr with ev 3 cam,hi4,tuned CV,and white brothers 2-1 it goes to 72hp on the dyno. Today i have an FXDC(92) i had ev27,compu fire,tuned CV,2-2 supertrapp,but it not near what the FXLR was in torque,so i swap the cam to ev3 and hope i can come some closer,i miss my old FXLR it was so well build and never falied,the FXDC had broken inner cam bearing,danmage gear box and the last i had to replace the forward chrank rod bearing and bore my cylinders with new BK 9,5:1 pistons,aaaand im wayting for the summer
great content, thanks for sharing
I've got a Crane 70004-B and I believe it's a stock profile . Let me tell you though between that cam and the S&S Super E carb when I crack that throttle it gets on down the road !
Evo's with a little power put in them are blast to ride!
flow the heads . 5 angle radious valve job. Pistons . Cam and carb with the right exhaust and it will easily make 100 HP. And still be reliable
Carol Shelby: Horsepower sells cars...but torque wins races.
Truth!
A little off topic here but what about the cam bearing? I heard that is the weak link in an Evo and it can destroy a motor. Do you know how many miles we should get out of a stock cam bearing?
That is true, the inner cam bearings were known to fail. It does vary but usually Evo's need lifters changed at 40K, that's a opportune time to get that bearing changed to the torrington bearing. Usually they will make it 40K, personally the failures I have seen were above 40K. Every bike is different though and maintenance and riding habits play a big part.
@@GixxerFoo Thanks for the info. And Im enjoying your videos. Very professional.
Can you do a video on how to do all that?
I have that same shirt!! Great little bar in Topeka!
Fun little place, l enjoyed it!
Crane H-290-2 and a set of 10-1's put over 95ft lbs every time but not a bolt in.
I better change my cam bearing and lifters I'm at 40k miles on a stock 1988 Evo FLHTC. Might just as well put in a cam.
Very informative! I'm looking at a '98 chopper right now. Also, where do I get this t-shirt?
No S&S 585 review? I hear that is a really popular cam for the 80 ci EVO.
It is a great cam, but Andrews makes the Evo cook.
I have an 89' flhtc with a headquarters bolt in cam. Made a difference but I don't know how it stacks up to the ones mentioned.
Appreciate the information thank you
Not a problem, anytime!
You need to do a big bore kits on evos. My fxr with H.Q headwork 86 hp 80in
@Al Gottsch What do you think of revtech vs ultima?
Man i miss the bowed shelf...
It's not fair to say an evo was not known for power, to put it in perspective, it was a reliable engine, with a broad range of custom style and performance potential, power was adequate but big cubic inch builds weren't as popular because of the conservative approach to casting thickness and limited test to failure research failed to inspire further R&D into stronger and more durable alloys, strengthening by revamping mold dies to tailor an increased casting thickness was omitted and a method to produce a less sand inclusive product. The limited options for increasing displacement options, forced new approaches and wide spread trial and error led to impressive alternative methods for power output gains. One of the most powerful proven mills retained the factory std. bore diameter and stroke, 80" just shy of 130 hp bolt in setup, with reinforced cases and some intake and exhaust port improvements. That's over 3x the factory HP and it ran several passes on the weekends and was a daily cruiser.
another solid evo vid! i think my 95 fxstc has a stock cam im doing research now. if not i may go fueling 518 cam lifters and push rods with new bearing.id really like to find them in a kit not having much luck though.
There's really not any complete kits for the Evo these day, you can get the parts it will just all be separate. Good news is Evo parts cost a lot less than the twin cam kits!
@@GixxerFoo which lifters and push rods do you recommend to match the 518 cam
Cams cams cams.....I have a 96 flhtcui that has developed an issue. It's sucking oil out of my primary into my crankcase. My mechanic believes a cracked case is the culprit, although, he's never seen oil migrate from the primary into the crankcase and he's been wrenching on these for 20 + years. It usually goes.the other way. Crankcase to primary. It would have to be a pretty big crack because 28 ounces of oil transferred in just under 10 miles! Anyway. Because of this issue, we, he and I both, decided the best way to go would be to just replace the motor. I found one that was salvaged from a 96 flhpi road king showing 4,230 miles on the odometer. They also state the actual mileage is unknown but the pictures of this motor look extremely clean like a low mileage engine. 2900 and change and it's on its way to me. I think I'd like to upgrade a cam in it but I don't know what would be best for a fuel injected bike. I'm thinking the Andrew's 27 but I really don't know. Either way. I need the thing to quit sucking oil from the primary. That's the big issue.
Thanks for the info.
Any time!
You are very informational. Appreciate you.
I have lots EV27 bikes running around out there ! That cam likes some compression add a .030 mls head gasket ! If your only running out to 5500 hang on to the throttle a little longer an EV27 will rev to 6200 all day ! My personal bike goes pretty far past an EV27 I ported my head's added a 1.9 intake valve a 1.630 ex decked .020 has a old set of crane 600 lift springs 10.0 wiseco pistons S&S lifters an a EV59 cam stock bottom end S&S E carb & a thunderheader for exhaust & loves eatin up Twinkie motors & 114 m8 motors my 91 FXR weighs in at 573 lbs !
Andrews cams really aren't advertised with glossy pictures and bikinis, they don't need to be but they sure could expand if they did!
Leonard Stanford
Sounds nice is it still a 80” motor?
@@scrumthebum2451 yes still 80 cu in !
Ev 23 all day brotha. Its in my Fxr
EV23, thunderslide, powerhouse single fire ignition, Jim’s big axle lifters
How does the ev13 compare?
Disappointed you don't show a dyno graph from the Fueling 518. I happen to be running one. I've got air cleaner and pipes, 9.65:1 CR with S&S HC heads and am running a Delphi(style) conversion. I was running a 547 Fueling cam, but two-up in sixth gear I was constantly shifting between 5th & 6th at my preferred cruising speed of 70 - 80 mph This correlates to about 2700 - 3000 RPM. Fueling shows a graph for the 547 shows a dip in torque at that speed. The fueling site doesn't have a 518 graph either, it does work much better. With the 518 I have the torque to maintain anywhere from 65 mph on up.
I'll have to dig up one from the 518, that's a cam I haven't heard mentioned in a long time!
I had a 82 shovelhead 96-in s&s s&s super e and I used Chevy 350 roller liftersand only had a problem when I had stock Harley they had one fall apart and take out my oil that's when the Harley mechanic told me about using GM 350 roller lifters don't know if this would work on a eviobut I think I might be something worth checking into lease then you know you can get more than 40,000
That's a very real thing using 350 lifters in a Harley, they are virtually the same except the oiling orfices in the 350 rollers are a bit smaller but everything else is the same.
What would you recommend for a 1995 1200 EVO Sportster? Stock carb & air cleaner, Screaming Eagle slip-ons. Not looking to tear into the motor, just want a little more grunt
Best you could do there without getting the motor would be a jet kit and a open element air cleaner. Start there with the SE exhaust and then upgrade to a different exhaust if you need more.
Looking for something for my 2018 Iron. I need something that will give me more power for passing.I have the stage 1 already. Simple bolt in.
I would highly suggest an upgrade to the Hammer 1275 running an 883. It's about double the cost of the cam but it will literally double you're power power from the 883 and increase over the 1200's power with stock cams. Using the 883 heads and stock cams is the "vanilla version" but well worth it. With that said, if you just want to do cams on the 883 I would go with the bolt in 570 cams from Hammer. It will give some decent gain but not nearly what the 1275 kit will do for you.
put a briggs and stratton engine in it would be best upgrade
Hell a mini bike powered by a rigid mounted Briggs is great practice for riding a Harley 😄😂.
My Woods W6 cam will be on eBay this weekend. It has low mileage and shows no wear whatsoever. Too noisy for me...
The Wood cams makes some power but they do have some pretty gnarly ramp angles which does make them noisy.
@@GixxerFoo SOLD for $180, screw that noise...
What cam is best for riding hard all the time? I do about 90 on the highway. I use my Harley daily to go to work as well. I kinda wanna say the ev27 but not sure.
thanks for great channel I've done lots of mods thanks to you.s&s claims their adjustable push rods are 32 thread per inch and ask for 4 turns or 24 flats. harley's adjustable push rods are also 32 treads per inch but they ask for 2.5 turns what am i missing here
Hi, Rev Tech 115 (and 125?): these motors are physically wider than the HD Evo and, I believe, the 110 and smaller R/Ts as well - I found this out when changing out an exploded 89" stroker to a FXR. Question: are your HP/ torque numbers always from motor only, (like the published S&S products) OR from the rear wheel? I deduct 15% from motor only numbers? what do you think? Note: R/T 115" comes with Andrews EV 72 cam - a pretty long duration lobe - this motor does it all very well. My 'Tantrum' employs my own 60" WB chassis - 527 lb w/o fuel - motor: S&S 111 - it's much like 115.
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I watch your videos they are great. I have a question. I have a new Harley with 700 miles on it. when the engine is cold it makes a knocking sound, then stops and starts again. Also, the valves are noisy. the bike is actually new. Evolution fxdwg. thank you in advance.
Can you hear cam sound, you know , barump, barump, at idle? Thanks.
You can hear some gear whine if it's got a lot of miles on it, but Harley matched those gears very well which reduced the noise.
You may have mentioned it somewhere but I probably missed it I am looking for lifters I have a 98 earful. I don’t need anything crazy or expensive but I don’t want to buy cheap cheap do you have any recommendations for an average rider thank you
Jims and Feuling make some good lifters, they are a couple hundred bucks for a set. Check out JP Cycles, RevZilla, Dennis Kirk, they sell them pretty reasonably. You don't want to go super cheap or pay out the butt for OEM.
@@GixxerFoo Yeah I see on eBay what is it the 20 bucks for a set of lifters 30 bucks etc. I just worry about those I don’t have a Lotta money to throw around otherwise I’d probably go with some new a cam ,, One of those Andrews you suggested in your video, in there something I can use my stock pushrods I’ve had a couple of adjustable pushrods failures one came loose another one bent but I know there’s a point you can go to cheap but there’s a point you can go to expensive to thanks for your response
Thanks foo!
No problem!
EV-27 😎
Ev 59
What. Highes. Hp. You get out. 96.
Considering building a 96" evo with the s&s sidewider kit. Which cams do what with the sidewinder kit? Can't seem to find much info on evo big twin performance builds.
Just so you know the 96" sidewinder kit puts you right about 9.6 to 9.7:1 on static compression. If you get head work done to accept the higher lift cam the woods w6h would be an awesome Cam and at that point though you're going to definitely need a S&S Super E.
Dang fine vid..carry on
Ok I have a 131 merch motor and I'm wanting to build it up, any suggestions on cam and or carb size? It has a 42 mm mukuni on it.
Holy crap that's a big engine, is it a EVO?
@@GixxerFoo yea and it's on a softail frame. I'm just trying to find out what I need to do to have this motor running at its full potential
@@GixxerFoo yep it's an evo. Look up merch motors
Do you need a fuel controller or ecu flash when you do a cam swap?
Yes, you would need a flash tuner if the bikes is new enough with the delphi system. If it's a fuel injected evo the older mag system you would need a power commander 5. Best option would be to have it dyno tuned, flash tuner with auto tune will get you to where the bike runs good and pick up some power. But a good dyno tuner can use their experience to really get some power left on the table!
@@GixxerFoo thanks for the info!
Not a problem, anytime!
Looking for more overall power for my wide glide andrews 23?
That's an excellent all around choice for a Dyna, plenty of torque and mid range!
does it matter which cam you pick it you have a carb or efi? I have a 97 flh with efi
Won't matter which cam but getting the Mag EFI tuned can be a bit tricky.
@@GixxerFoo change it over to a carb?
That can be a huge undertaking, a good dyno tuner can tune the mag system though.
Hi
On a Softail 1999 Night Train FXSTB
How do i know the right reference from Timken (Torrington) to replace the INA ?
Can anyone please help me on that ?
Thanks
Revzilla has a good one from Feuling, their SKU number is 10025426.
@@GixxerFoo hi
Can t find it
Can you help me with a lynk?
Thanks a lot
@@LuisSilva-wp5kt www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/feuling-inner-camshaft-bearings-for-harley-big-twin-1958-1999?query=10025426&sku_id=10025426 This should get you there!
@@GixxerFoo Fantastic , Thanks a lot
Putting a bigger cam in anything is going to make it run Better everything is stifled from factory due to regulations.....
What's with the hands?
I get a bit excited talking about this stuff, it prevents a silent movie as well 😄.
These horsepower numbers are shameful. Who spends the kind of money HD charges for their bikes for performance this dreadful? (clearly, a whole lot of folks back in the day) Is it any wonder we've become a laughing stock among motorcycle owners?
I am running an EV13 in a '93 dyna. I have noticed more valve noise with this 13. I wonder if I can achieve quieter valves with the 23?
I get a chuckle out of Harley owners. They spend more time upgrading and repairing their bike and less time riding it. The average Harley rider puts 1800 to 3000 miles on their bike because if they put more it would end up in the shop more often with some expensive repairs. I have 2 Japanese bikes and the most expense I run in too is having tires changed as I ride 14000-16000 miles a year. Working on my 3rd set. When it's time I'll buy another set of new Japanese bikes or used low miles from owner nonriders . My maintenance costs are maybe $1200 /year mostly oil and tires.
I own two Harley’s and I don’t spend nowhere near that much each year. I put 5-10k a year on my Evo.
0:58 0:58 0:59
Could you do a Hammer cam? I believe it’s either the 560, or 570. Do both.
I put the EV27 in every Evo I ever did and it was a do it all cam .
Cant beat it IMHO
Agreed, Harley left plenty of room in there for reasonable power.
Amen brother, single fire dyna, s&s carb pingel petcock.
@@ronniehdable exacyly what I have on my 98 ultra.
Right hand to the man ev 27 4500-5000 rpm is like a damn power band lmao
Upgrades on my 92 evo: Andrews ev27/490 lift cam, roller rocker arms, single fire ignition, S&S carb with Primo Rivera extened forward intake manifold, Vance & Hines duel exhaust.. 88,432 miles and still running strong..🤘
Very nice! You've got all the goods in that motor!
Amen.
H-D EVO, best motor the MoCo ever made. Just as explained in the video. Don't try to ask it to do to much, it'll last forever. The Andrews 27 or Crane 310, was always the cam of choice, for bolt-in power & torque.
I run a Andrews EV46 and have done for 30 years or more a Quick Silver cab and Points and have around 85 hp and I have ridden about 280,000kl and 2 rebuilds , I'm smiling because I have photos ha ha , can you tell I'm old ?
thats awesome man! i have a similar setup in my fxr.. i just did my first rebuild👌🏻
Just got a 98 blown cam bearing… ultra any tips or upgrades while I got her apart? Appreciate any input thanks
Yup EV 46
Great presentation. I'm running a EV27 in my old 96 bagger. New lifters, cam bearing upgrade, s&s steel breather gear, tuned carb. Yadda yadda runs strong. But what really makes a difference in my experience, was heads ported and polished and valve's 1.9 int. 1.63 ex. Run strong and has been very dependable.
Right on! EV27 is a excellent Evo cam, it's been around a long time. Excellent power and very reliably too!
My EV27 will be here Monday and I’ll install it sometime over the next couple months.
Here's what I did to my '92 Low Rider for 80/80 hp & torque: Branch heads, EV-57 cam, SE manifold & air cleaner, SE push rods, V&H 2:1 Pro Pipe, Mikuni 45mm carb.
👌🏻
EV27 cam, Ness air cleaner, Dyna ignition, street ported heads, and a ThunderHeader exhaust on my 1993 FLHS. Runs great. I'm the second engine (red) on the dyno sheet at 04.40 (he did the work back then), but I had SuperTrapp slipons with 16 disc each at that time. Last dyno was done a year ago at a different shop: 70/80 were the numbers then. Get's low 40 mpg on the interstate at a steady 70 mph. Mid to high 30's around town. Noticeable improvement in roll-on, and two up riding at interstate speeds. No more waiting to get past slow moving trucks/rv's.