Alot of people I tried to talk to back in the 60s,70s and 80s wanted to talk to me like I was a dumb ass and I gave up! They act like they were gonna lose points if they gave you info! You Sir are a stand up Guy!!
I don't know who you talked to but if you came into the shop I ran I wasn't likely to answer your questions (for legal reasons). But, as a shop manager, I can tell you there are PLENTY of people in the automotive business who have NO CLUE and just do what they were taught, right or wrong. I can't tell you the number of students I had who barely passed a basic auto test when I was teaching "Advanced diagnostics" to "working mechanics" at college level before I retired. Note: my last 4-5 years were teaching.
Thank you for dispelling the nonsense of the HV pumps sucking pans dry. Im a heavy duty diesel mechanic and i own a LS2 - did full rebuild on it after the oem pump bypass got stuck open and it ate a crank bearing. I went with a HV pump and was just dumbfounded by the idea of a pump sucking a pan dry - especially on a LS platform. But i kept hearing it and started to let consensus overtake my own experiences. This helped stop the second guessing.
I love coming here. I've been in the industry 17 years on the diagnostic and repair side, and I love learning from other professionals who care about doing it right. Quality machine shops are a dying breed. Thank you for helping to keep that alive, and for sharing your knowledge here.
Amen! I love these informative videos! I wish I were closer, but may end up shipping my block out, just for the peace of mind, knowing it’s done right!
@@heysoos223 Agreed! If I lived near Powell Machine I'd be rebuilding engines locally rather than buying reman units. Most of the good machine shops in this area no longer exist, unfortunately.
I'm a little embarrassed to admit this, but I'm a retired engineer an every time I watch one of these videos I seem to pick up a few little nuggets of wisdom. I didn't even know that there was such an animal as a 'restricted pushrod'! Everything that was said concerning oil viscosity, oil pressure and resistance to flow was absolutely correct. I wish I was back in the States so I could put together an old iron 327 and incorporate all these little tricks and just see how it performed. Very well done, again.
Just some straight forward common sense and experience, talking. It's like a shop video got together with a porch talk, and had a baby. Great "Shop Talk", I love it! I look forward to your cut-away video.
After 40 years of building engines for a living, I never found an old school engine that needed a 30% increase HV oil pump. On my Ford and Chev dry sump engines, running 5/30 I machined the pressure gears and body thinner until its 15 psi at 1000 rpm and 60% pump speed.
Me and my father built the 350 TBI engine in my old Chevy Silverado. I believe it was a 1992. It was about 20 years ago we built the engine. I drove the truck for prolly 10 years and parked it due to rusting away. The truck sat for about 3-4 years then I sold the engine to a guy and put it into his 90s vintage Chevy suburban. That motor is still running to this day and has never been taken apart. It puts a smile on my face every time I pass that suburban still running around with my rebuilt engine. Good machine work and preparation with religious oil changes will let engines live a long long time
I LIKE HIS IDEA OF A 2 QT. PAN AND A 7" TALL ENGINE OF THE PUMP CAUSING THE PAN TO BE SUCKED DRY!!! THAT WOULD BE THE ONLY WAY!! WHAT HE SAYS IS TECHNALLY SOUND AND MAKES PERFECTLY GOOD COMMON SENSE TO ANYONE THAT IS MECHANICALLY INCLINED WITH THE MAKE-UP OF THE ENGINE INTERNALS!! THANKS FOR YOUR EXPERTISE AND "DOWN TO EARTH LANGUAGE"! ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS VERY MUCH!
My 03 Chevy Silverado was experiencing low oil press. 20 psi cold and 10 hot. I knew my bearing clearsnces were increasing and my lifters would start ticking. I decided. Im going to pull my heads. Get a new cam and new lifters and fix my lifter issues 😅😅 Nope. Then i saw my cam bearings were shot after 280k miles So i went further. Found my mains and rod bearing wearing out. Then i decided to have the engine overhaul. Now. My truck is at 50 cold and hold at 40 hot idle. I believed the nonsense of sucking the oil pan dry. 😅 There is a sucker born every minute. Until i read more and now ive heard from you. No nonsense talk about fluid dynamics. Ive been working on my own vehicle for over 50 years now. Except for the machine shop since i don't own a shop. 😅
In my opinion. This is the best video you have done so far. Great topic and great explanation to allow the listeners to be able to visualize the situation. Awesome.
I have a 357 small block (40 over 350 !! I had 40 lbs of pressure idling 80 at 4000 rpm ,o at 7000 ! I ran 30 weight ! My clearance was 2.3 on the bearings! I changed oil to 10/ 30 and I kept 40 lbs at idling and 60 at 6800 !!! Great Explanation!!!
I have never believed the valve covers "fill up" with oil. Most people forget about all the bleed off from the rod / main bearings. Thank You, for spelling it out how the oil really acts.
Picture this.... 2019 Camaro ZL1 pkg LT4 with oil pump vanes in oil filter.... Fisher Brand oil filter. 11K miles. New engine. Vehicle returns at 19K. Pump vanes in oil filter. GM filter this time but looked recently replaced. New engine. Restrictions are a killer and good oil filters are priceless.
Daniel you are exactly correct on the oil pressure theory. Most people don't understand the physics of how oil pressure is created in the engine. There are so many different factors that play into building oil pressure. And yes two much oil pressure will short life the cam and oil pump drive gears. I am definitely agreeing with you on the valve covers not filling up with all the motor oil.😂😂😂 But there is one acception to that. Back in the day I have seen that happen on high mileage engines and the fix for that was to pull the valve covers off and push the sledge down through the oil returns in the cylinder heads. Lol actually seen that a few times years ago. That is caused by not changing engine oil or basically lack of maintenance. But with a clean engine and oil it's impossible to collect all the oil up into the cylinder heads running the pan dry. I guess the people who think that is possible have never seen an engine running with the valve covers removed. The oil barley makes it up past the gasket surfaces. But if you are going to try and run the engine with valve covers removed you will want to have a set of oil deflectors that clip onto the rocker arms. 😂 In some cases without them deflectors you will get oil sprayed in your face. Daniel I so appreciate and love your intelligence. Keep telling it how it is because there is just so so much misleading information told on the Internet ❤
If you’re buying this high volume oil pump you got to buy this 6 quart oil pan or you will suck the pan dry. I fell for this in 1992 as a sophomore in high school. Scotchbrite and extra thousandth or two off the bearings so they will oil better. Thank god there are people like you on TH-cam giving out free advice so that my kids don’t get this backyard advice.
We really appreciate you dropping the real knowledge bc they’re so many “professionals” saying so much bs out here and it’s hard to weed through what’s real and what’s made up nonsense.
The only time I've seen a valve cover fill up, the drain back holes were clogged and it still didn't empty the pan. It would take a garden hose to empty the pan as fast as people thinks it will empty the pan. Even with a garden hose it would still take over a minute to empty the pan and except for extreme 1 mile drag racing or Bonneville Salt flats, I've never seen a engine at redline that long. I'm putting a high pressure/ high volume in my Ls3 swap for the occasional burnouts which is another time the engine is at high RPMs for a extended period of time. Lol. Thanks for this video brother. People really needed to hear this subject.
I took apart a supposedly "good" 6.2 LS last year. As soon as I got the front cover off I noticed a brand new Melling USA HP HV pump. Called the guy I got the motor from, asked if he was chasing oil pressure issues. He said yeah, it had low pressure but must have been the pump because it went away with the new pump. Well, the pump is never the cause or answer to low pressure. Of course it had wasted cam bearing on the #2 where it gets oil for the VVT, thats where all the pressure was going.
Thanks brother, running a bb mopar around 550 hp for many years. Run the Melling HPHV pump and 1030 oil with no issues. Was thinking lately about ditching the HV pump so glad you explained where the oil actually goes. Always a small valve cover seapage that I was starting to think was pump related. Last rebuilt around 2000 and bearings are 002 flat tappet cam with no issues. Back then bought lifters from the local Mopar dealer, boxes were oil covered and dusty and he was glad to sell them as noone bought them. Run a holley six pack that is on the bench for new gaskets so appreciate that holley series as well. Good stuff, makes sense to me bet most folks miss a bunch cause they dont grabit.
This upload, was very enlightening! I too, had friends in the '90s, building engines with .003 clearance, on the rods and mains, running 20w50. They were like 6.90, 1/8 mile cars. Nothing, special. Thumbs up, as always!
I worked in big industry for 27 years. A steam generation plant. Three coal fired boilers, 3 steam turbines attached to 3 generators. Each turbine had 3 separate oil pumps. A main oil pump that was primed by an auxiliary oil pump and a DC backup oil pump. The generator bearings were protected by 2 oil pumps. I was not there the day it happened but our #3 turbine went from 3600 to Zero right quick due to starved bearing lubrication. Them boys didn't have a good day.
Another damn good video! This is where I go when I want to learn something, because of how much info you put in your videos. This is now my "Can't wait for the next video" channel.
Dang, that was a great listen, and packed with things I didn't know that I didn't know. Awesome topic, and the cut-away view of the engine priming sounds excellent.
What a great learning experience. Thank you, sir. The first time I primed an engine with the intake manifold removed, I was absolutely amazed at how much oil escaped between the body of the lifters and the block.
Great video and great insight. I have a freshly built 6.0 LS with a turbo attached to it and I opted for the high volume pump and even after running it for about 2k miles i was starting to second guess it when getting a small bit of lifter noise on cold starts, instead i changed to a lighter weight oil and the noise went away. Fast forward to now and i find this video confirming my suspicions. Thank you sir, you gained a new sub.
Volume increases pressure, which is relieved by the relief spring. Your pressure won't drop as much at idle with a high volume pump, but total pressure is dictated by your relief.
Heres a way to run an experiment to show how low an oil pan gets, HV oil pump vs. Std vol... Put a sight glass on an oil pan from the bolts to the bottom... That should settle the issue once and for all... Along with different oil weights...
Great info! I've heard running larger bearing clearances on the #2, #3, #4 mains helps to accommodate for a bit of crankshaft flex, but your statement @ 10:00 made sense.
Excellent and informative as always, my dad had a friend who was into old Caddy engines and he was a well respected engine rebuilder(called himself "doctor of motors" complete with a lab coat) and he swore by straight 5W and claimed he never had an engine failure due to lubrication issue. He used to say what you just did, only I understood you better...he was from Germany and hard to understand at times. Thank you for sharing what you have learned.
Hi Daniel, enjoy your info videos and tech knowledge, wish we had you here down under 👍… when I built my last Coronet RT440 Mopar with a Milodon HV pump I drilled/tapped my drain plug 1/4” NPT and fitted a hose tail with about 3 feet of clear 3/8” plastic tubing and attached that up to the inner guard. Then I was able to clearly see what the oil level was doing as I revved the engine up. This enabled me to add another quart to the full mark (engine cold) and within 15 seconds of idling on the choke at 1100rpm the oil level had dropped back to 5/16” -3/8” below the dip stick full mark. With the engine running at 3500rpm and 80psi gauge, there was still almost 3” of oil still in the pan. Initial fill with extra quart had the level just above the windage tray and on startup within 15secs that extra oil plus some had disappeared in circulation. All this with a stock pan.
I am really looking forward to the video of the lower end leakage. I hope you're able to do it soon. I raced circle track SBC's in the late 70's & early 80's. I had a mentor that raced & passed his knowledge along to me. What an advantage. I, especially now 40 some years later, know that I wasted very little money on unnecessary things. I, he taught me, to used high volume pumps, stock oil pans & how to make our own oil pump pickups out of copper pipe & window screen. Keep up the great video's.
Thanks for the video!! I am far from an "engine builder" or machinist, but as a MoPar man (with some BB Buicks thrown in), I have read, experimented and learned about oil/oiling systems and clearances. I have adopted and adhered to the thin oil, HV pump and loose clearances (.001" per ournal inch, aprox.) theory. With the metered/timed oil to the rocker shafts, via the cam bearings/camshaft holes, and free return flow through the heads/valley, I've never really worried about pumping the pan dry on MoPars. The biggest problem with these engines with a production pan for most chassis is oil control (supply) to the pickup, as the sump is in a middle position, and oil tends to ride up the sump and get wadded up at the rear of the pan near the back counterweights, under a hard launch. Oil pans with rear sumps and tubes for the (rear) steering center link to pass through are available, but are a bit extreme for anything but full race. I use straight 30w non-detergent or 5w30 oil for break in, depending on camshaft type and I do add ZDDP on anything flat tappet. I am building a 377 (400 with destroker crank) SBC with a coworker, and am looking forward to doing a Chevy for a change, and especially a destroker. I found a Melling HV-ST pump at Summit's Scratch-N-Dent sale for $75, and it will be my first time trying a helical hear pump. We plan on using 3/4 groove main bearings and a 7qt oil pan. I like your suggestion of full oil volume to the lifters, and restricted flow pushrods, which I probably will use on this street/strip engine (more street!). I enjoy your channel and appreciate the tech!! RB
Super interesting talk. I've always wondered why certain older car guys used thicker oils when I was growing up. IMO It's similar to electricity, your voltage is your pump, ohms are your oil passages and the current is the net pressure. Gotta make sure you put in the right ingredients otherwise you end up with a lot of excess heat, same as those poor cranks lol.
Bearings spitting oil out of the sides has been hashed and re-hashed topic as long as I can remember . One of the first things I heard as a youngster was about gauging main bearing wear . It was " When you're oil pressure is low , it tells you your mains are worn " . Maybe not those exact words , but close . I've believed that for well over 50 years and still do , but with no concrete proof . You mention priming a system without an oil pan ? I'd sure like to see that video when it comes ou ! There's always the discussion about standard OEM pumps vs High Pressure vs High Volume pumps . Lots of discussion , lots of theory , but no real proof ...yet . Thanks to the family for all the hard work and information .
The oil that goes to the bearings has to come out somewhere. And there is clearance between the bearing and crank as well as to the sides of the bearing. With that clearance and no seal to hold the oil in it’s going to push the oil out from the gaps. That’s why worn bearings tend to cause lower oil pressure. The increased clearance makes it easier for the oil to flow out so the pressure goes down.
@21:15 - you said "Galleys" Caught ya! LoL I was just crediting you on Steve Morris's channel that you told me that Galleys are on ships and oil runs through Galleries. All in fun, just thought it was funny that yesterday I quoted you (saying you corrected my 40+ y.o. use of "oil galley") and today you said galley. All good. Thanks again for great content.
Good episode. Couple of thoughts: 1. Some motors like the 455 Olds and the FE Fords have priority oiling to the cam and rockers. If they are stock, when they get to high RPM they will fill the valve covers. This is a real problem in boats using these engines that sit at 4500 for long time periods. But it happened to FE's on the drag strip too. That's why we ran them a qt over full back in the day. So they'd still have oil pressure at the big end of the track. 2. If you build SBC's and BBC's like I do, you can use the extra volume. I slot the lower boss on the distributor body to oil the the cam gear with high flow. I also drill the front lifter galley plugs to over oil the timing set. I install a lower pressure relief spring in the oil pump because I don't want to waste HP making pressure for no reason. 45 PSI is all I run. But oil everywhere. 0W-30 all day, every day 😀
Hi Daniel, Thanks for the video! Well I for one was always worried about sucking air in the oil pan with a high volume pump if I didn't have everything right as far as windage ,a windage tray, Crank scraper and a baffle to stop the oil from climbing the back of the block (this is all in reference to drag racing). I also restricted the oil galley to the lifters which I was going to remove. I didn't know about the restrictor push rods, thanks for that info! I used a stock pan and extended the sump two inches and after a burn out I was on the brakes and seen the oil pressure drop below 45 psi. so I put a trap door in the pan and that stopped that. I was also running 40 weight oil and that will be changed. This is all in a small journal SBC in a 65 Chevelle! I really appreciate all this info Daniel Thanks!👍👍
Mopar la engins always seemed to have oil problems, so i modify the cam to full oil pressure the rockers and add a squirter hole in the timing cover to give timing chain extra oil. Have always used HV melling oil pumps to give them a good idle oil pressure. At 4000 rpm there at there regulated oil pressure. I was told it was to much oil pressure at rpm but i always used the same example as u used with the hydraulic system, thats what the releif valve is for. Great info, more people need it. Thanks.
I have just purchased a used 2015 Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 Hemi. It has only travelled 22,300klms. I have ordered the Melling 10452HV oil pump from Summit. Will also use 5w-30 racing oil, Penrite 10 Tenths, change every 5,000klms.
On the early sb chevys some people would complain about sucking the pan dry because of the pump . But every case I tackled in that department was a pan slosh problem mostly in circle track cars . The pressure never zeroed out but went low enough to light a 10 to 15 lb oil light in or just before the corners , after a pan change problem solved.
very good info! Thanks! just confirms that 540ratblog engineer oil testing standards are proven and he always said run 5w30 unless that weight fails to maintain enough oil pressure, maybe then move up viscosity. another good point 540rat makes is 5w30 thinness flows faster than heavier weight and carries away heat faster
Anything over 80psi can cause bearing washout anyhow. A friend that built race cars in the 80s knew this, and taught me to just use the 10w-30, even back then. Thicker oil flows slower and doesn't help things like cooling the bottoms of the piston crowns etc... My buddy ran clearances at about .002" Basically built engines like a "well broken in engine" with 60k miles on it. Maybe a bit looser, but you get the point.
Excellent video. I'm guilty of thinking a HV pump would suck my GTO pan dry since it only holds 4.5 to 5.0 quarts max. Always ran a Melling 10295 STD volume High pressure. Love this channel.
I remember that time in the 90s. Dyno results started popping up in magazines showing results for 0 weight oil. Might have been bike racers doing it first. My main thought was holy shit I knew it was going to make more power, but I never would have guessed that much.
I think the sucking the pan dry thing comes from certain engines, like here in Australia, the Holden 308 and later 304efi, they're similar to a Pontiac V8 with some other GM features. Well they used to fill the rocker covers as the drain backs were to small for racing, so the pan level would drop. To solve this issue you can drill the oil drain backs bigger, also a lot of guys will do an external drain, this was documented on Aussie V8 forum by an engine builder Tony Knight. Also the reason people know this is the case with the Holden V8 is that when you move to a solid cam you add a oil restrictor which solves the issue, then guys started to drill out the drain backs to 9/16 and it also solves the problem. I think it might've been a big issue on Bathurst as the uphill section is steep and you would only have one hole to drain back per head as the front holes wouldn't get flow just like in a drag race which is why the external drain backs go at the back. Also this issue with the Holden happens with a standard OEM pump too.
All good stuff! My GMC truck with the L8T I believe has a variable oil pressure pump along with variable valve timing. With low rpm the oil pressure is low, I’m not sure how mechanically they increase oil pressure with power output. It’s a different world with the new engines. Great video!
We had some circle track small block chevys take out the pump gear with standard volume pump and 10-30 oil with .002 bearing clearances. I was suspecting cam walk could of been the cause? Not every engine showed wear at the gear. A good front cover with adjustable shims @ the cam seems to of helped.
I put a laboratory quality oil pressure gauge on my first car, 1977 Honda Civic. Dead nuts 70 psi.......hot or cold.........fresh or used oil........ idle or 5 grand.....even at 100,000 miles when the chassis was rusted out. Caused me to be a bit of a Hondaman for many future cars.
Ive used high volume oil pumps for 30 years with stock pans never had any problems sucking oil pan dry,but all my sbc i grind them for better oil return, alot of flash in some holes.
This is the reason im puting a new hr engine in my z rn i bet you 100% My oil presure was at like 5-10 psi idle and60-70 reved up. All ove the place liike you say. my brother put a light weight synthetic oil in it. It has spun a rod berring i really feal like.
ive always believed the same thing . Ive tried for 20 years to convince people of this . When we ran 360 2BBl class 86" cars people were cutting clearances loose And running VR50 Valvoline with Lucas oil stabilizer so they would have oil pressure whe ran tight with 5W30 and a Melling HV pump and had awesome oil pressure and after a seasonal tear down the bearings still looked good. Didnt have cam gear issues like a lot of guys did. You are 100% right about this .
I'm a dirt an asphalt racer... I personally use 20/50 vr1... I've found if you let the car warm up really good before reving/ driving it helps alot with the wear issue... Never ever start up an rev a cold motor with thick oil was one of the first things I was taught 25 + years ago....
Man I can’t thank you enough for this video! My engine is out of my car at the machine shop for the second time now. This engine (ls3 with forged rods and pistons, stock crank) has roughly 1300 miles on it and has ate 2 sets of bearings now. The shop who built it originally was in Michigan set my bearing clearance’s @ .0265 and told me to run 20/50. Well when I pulled the motor after about 900 miles because I kept seeing metal in my oil those bearings looked worse then my 100k motor that was originally in the car. Took it to a local machine shop they tore it apart. Scratched their heads and said the don’t know why and blamed it on possible dirty build or debris. So they put it back together set my bearings even looser .0275 and told me to run 20/50 again and guess what the motor was pulled after 300 miles due to still seeing metal in oil. Now different machine shop but they too are a little confused as to why. I’ve been thinking this whole time it’s oil and oil volume. It had a 296 high pressure meiling pump. Car is running a 2650 sc. this time around I’m going to run a high volume and not going to run 20w 50 anymore. Oh also my oil pressure was no where near like it was with my stock motor . It was mid low 20’s hot idle and was high 50’s at wot with the 20w50. What oil do you recommend when I get it back. Also I really wish I had just shipped you the motor. Another question if you don’t mind. This current machine shop says I shouldn’t be using a stock ls3 crank for my build. That I should have a forged piece. I’m ok with that really, my question is if my bore is 4.070 and my rods are 6.125 then if I want to go 416 stroker motor the only thing I need to do is get a crank that’s 4.00 stroke and cammed for 6.125 rods am I correct in this thinking? Thank you sir in advance if you get back to me I really appreciate it. I’ve just had a really tough time with this engine.
He must not read all of it, if you change the stroke and keep the same rod length you will need to change the compression height on the pistons, so new pistons. Stroke÷2 + rod length + compression height minus deck height will let you know where your at but should always be verified from top of deck with a dial gauge.
I filled the valve cover on a small block Mopar in the past on a circle track engine. I had a tiny rust pit in the valve cover that would spew oil after a few laps. I fixed it by restricting the oil flow to the rocker shafts. I rediced that too much and killed the valve springs. Lesson kearned.
You are 💯% correct. You are not going to empty the oil pan with a high volume oil pump. Try priming the engine with the intake & valve covers removed. You can see what it’s doing. Our shop using 10w30 in sbc & drill to prime. You better have a T handle on drill motor. We burnt out drill motors priming engines until boss got us a Milwaukee and when I retired that drill motor was still working great. We were just a fleet shop not an engine machine shop
Have seen some instances of top end oil trapping in DOHC turbo motors. Seems common source of the problem is venting the valve cover, and blow by venting back through the returns, impeding oil return to the crankcase, for the direction of flow of crankcase pressure being opposite the oil return path.
You are a breath of fresh air in a world of BS on the internet.
Tyvm!!
Alot of people I tried to talk to back in the 60s,70s and 80s wanted to talk to me like I was a dumb ass and I gave up! They act like they were gonna lose points if they gave you info! You Sir are a stand up Guy!!
Ty, I appreciate that!
I appreciate any knowledge that comes from another man’s treachery. Thanks Sir!
I used to be a fleet mechanic, and I found out that not many mechanics want to teach or give out info to other mechanics.
I don't know who you talked to but if you came into the shop I ran I wasn't likely to answer your questions (for legal reasons).
But, as a shop manager, I can tell you there are PLENTY of people in the automotive business who have NO CLUE and just do what they were taught, right or wrong.
I can't tell you the number of students I had who barely passed a basic auto test when I was teaching "Advanced diagnostics" to "working mechanics" at college level before I retired.
Note: my last 4-5 years were teaching.
That was some good information I don't see how it would empty an oil pan with out leaving some rags under the covers.
I love your common sense and experience approach to explaining things.
Ty!!
Thank you for dispelling the nonsense of the HV pumps sucking pans dry. Im a heavy duty diesel mechanic and i own a LS2 - did full rebuild on it after the oem pump bypass got stuck open and it ate a crank bearing. I went with a HV pump and was just dumbfounded by the idea of a pump sucking a pan dry - especially on a LS platform. But i kept hearing it and started to let consensus overtake my own experiences. This helped stop the second guessing.
💯
I love coming here. I've been in the industry 17 years on the diagnostic and repair side, and I love learning from other professionals who care about doing it right. Quality machine shops are a dying breed. Thank you for helping to keep that alive, and for sharing your knowledge here.
Ty, I appreciate you!
Amen! I love these informative videos! I wish I were closer, but may end up shipping my block out, just for the peace of mind, knowing it’s done right!
@@heysoos223 Agreed! If I lived near Powell Machine I'd be rebuilding engines locally rather than buying reman units. Most of the good machine shops in this area no longer exist, unfortunately.
It's refreshing to see a man knows how to set up levels and position of his microphone. Well done, sir!
Ty
I am so glad I can listen to the adult in the room. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Yw!
I'm a little embarrassed to admit this, but I'm a retired engineer an every time I watch one of these videos I seem to pick up a few little nuggets of wisdom. I didn't even know that there was such an animal as a 'restricted pushrod'! Everything that was said concerning oil viscosity, oil pressure and resistance to flow was absolutely correct. I wish I was back in the States so I could put together an old iron 327 and incorporate all these little tricks and just see how it performed. Very well done, again.
Your very welcome, we can all learn! When we stop is the problem
the first 3 minutes of this video was the Best explanation that I've ever heard.
Just some straight forward common sense and experience, talking.
It's like a shop video got together with a porch talk, and had a baby. Great "Shop Talk", I love it!
I look forward to your cut-away video.
Lol, 💯
You nailed it sir. Pumps create flow. Restrictions create pressure
Yep
After 40 years of building engines for a living, I never found an old school engine that needed a 30% increase HV oil pump. On my Ford and Chev dry sump engines, running 5/30 I machined the pressure gears and body thinner until its 15 psi at 1000 rpm and 60% pump speed.
Me and my father built the 350 TBI engine in my old Chevy Silverado. I believe it was a 1992. It was about 20 years ago we built the engine. I drove the truck for prolly 10 years and parked it due to rusting away. The truck sat for about 3-4 years then I sold the engine to a guy and put it into his 90s vintage Chevy suburban. That motor is still running to this day and has never been taken apart. It puts a smile on my face every time I pass that suburban still running around with my rebuilt engine. Good machine work and preparation with religious oil changes will let engines live a long long time
@@ericstalker7973 absolutely
I LIKE HIS IDEA OF A 2 QT. PAN AND A 7" TALL ENGINE OF THE PUMP CAUSING THE PAN TO BE SUCKED DRY!!! THAT WOULD BE THE ONLY WAY!! WHAT HE SAYS IS TECHNALLY SOUND AND MAKES PERFECTLY GOOD COMMON SENSE TO ANYONE THAT IS MECHANICALLY INCLINED WITH THE MAKE-UP OF THE ENGINE INTERNALS!! THANKS FOR YOUR EXPERTISE AND "DOWN TO EARTH LANGUAGE"! ENJOY YOUR VIDEOS VERY MUCH!
You are very welcome!
Now I can't wait to see the break in so we can actually see the pump in action.
Definitely
thank you for a proper video on high volume oil pumps. no bullshit and plenty of facts.
Yw!
Liked the talk session format. Agree totally, I just replaced my distributor in my 454 and I always run 5-30 oil. Love your channel.
Thank you!
My 03 Chevy Silverado was experiencing low oil press. 20 psi cold and 10 hot.
I knew my bearing clearsnces were increasing and my lifters would start ticking.
I decided. Im going to pull my heads. Get a new cam and new lifters and fix my lifter issues 😅😅
Nope. Then i saw my cam bearings were shot after 280k miles
So i went further. Found my mains and rod bearing wearing out. Then i decided to have the engine overhaul.
Now. My truck is at 50 cold and hold at 40 hot idle.
I believed the nonsense of sucking the oil pan dry. 😅 There is a sucker born every minute.
Until i read more and now ive heard from you. No nonsense talk about fluid dynamics.
Ive been working on my own vehicle for over 50 years now. Except for the machine shop since i don't own a shop. 😅
💯
In my opinion. This is the best video you have done so far. Great topic and great explanation to allow the listeners to be able to visualize the situation.
Awesome.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Soon as i heard people think the oil pump could suck the oil pan dry I laughed out loud. Great vid as always.
Ty!!
I have a 357 small block (40 over 350 !! I had 40 lbs of pressure idling 80 at 4000 rpm ,o at 7000 ! I ran 30 weight ! My clearance was 2.3 on the bearings! I changed oil to 10/ 30 and I kept 40 lbs at idling and 60 at 6800 !!! Great Explanation!!!
Good stuff
I have never believed the valve covers "fill up" with oil. Most people forget about all the bleed off from the rod / main bearings. Thank You, for spelling it out how the oil really acts.
100%
There's a whole lot of people out there needs to watch this video.
No doubt
Picture this.... 2019 Camaro ZL1 pkg LT4 with oil pump vanes in oil filter.... Fisher Brand oil filter. 11K miles. New engine. Vehicle returns at 19K. Pump vanes in oil filter. GM filter this time but looked recently replaced. New engine. Restrictions are a killer and good oil filters are priceless.
Apparently the gen 5 factory pumps are garbage
Daniel you are exactly correct on the oil pressure theory. Most people don't understand the physics of how oil pressure is created in the engine. There are so many different factors that play into building oil pressure. And yes two much oil pressure will short life the cam and oil pump drive gears. I am definitely agreeing with you on the valve covers not filling up with all the motor oil.😂😂😂 But there is one acception to that. Back in the day I have seen that happen on high mileage engines and the fix for that was to pull the valve covers off and push the sledge down through the oil returns in the cylinder heads. Lol actually seen that a few times years ago. That is caused by not changing engine oil or basically lack of maintenance. But with a clean engine and oil it's impossible to collect all the oil up into the cylinder heads running the pan dry. I guess the people who think that is possible have never seen an engine running with the valve covers removed. The oil barley makes it up past the gasket surfaces. But if you are going to try and run the engine with valve covers removed you will want to have a set of oil deflectors that clip onto the rocker arms. 😂 In some cases without them deflectors you will get oil sprayed in your face. Daniel I so appreciate and love your intelligence. Keep telling it how it is because there is just so so much misleading information told on the Internet ❤
@ericstalker7973 yep, seen plenty of blocked up oil returns back in the day.
If you’re buying this high volume oil pump you got to buy this 6 quart oil pan or you will suck the pan dry. I fell for this in 1992 as a sophomore in high school. Scotchbrite and extra thousandth or two off the bearings so they will oil better. Thank god there are people like you on TH-cam giving out free advice so that my kids don’t get this backyard advice.
💯
great info thank you i watch all your videos still racing at 72
Awesome! Thank you!
We really appreciate you dropping the real knowledge bc they’re so many “professionals” saying so much bs out here and it’s hard to weed through what’s real and what’s made up nonsense.
Your welcome!
The only time I've seen a valve cover fill up, the drain back holes were clogged and it still didn't empty the pan. It would take a garden hose to empty the pan as fast as people thinks it will empty the pan. Even with a garden hose it would still take over a minute to empty the pan and except for extreme 1 mile drag racing or Bonneville Salt flats, I've never seen a engine at redline that long. I'm putting a high pressure/ high volume in my Ls3 swap for the occasional burnouts which is another time the engine is at high RPMs for a extended period of time. Lol. Thanks for this video brother. People really needed to hear this subject.
Yep
I took apart a supposedly "good" 6.2 LS last year.
As soon as I got the front cover off I noticed a brand new Melling USA HP HV pump. Called the guy I got the motor from, asked if he was chasing oil pressure issues. He said yeah, it had low pressure but must have been the pump because it went away with the new pump.
Well, the pump is never the cause or answer to low pressure.
Of course it had wasted cam bearing on the #2 where it gets oil for the VVT, thats where all the pressure was going.
Yep
Thanks brother, running a bb mopar around 550 hp for many years. Run the Melling HPHV pump and 1030 oil with no issues. Was thinking lately about ditching the HV pump so glad you explained where the oil actually goes. Always a small valve cover seapage that I was starting to think was pump related. Last rebuilt around 2000 and bearings are 002 flat tappet cam with no issues. Back then bought lifters from the local Mopar dealer, boxes were oil covered and dusty and he was glad to sell them as noone bought them. Run a holley six pack that is on the bench for new gaskets so appreciate that holley series as well. Good stuff, makes sense to me bet most folks miss a bunch cause they dont grabit.
💯, yw
Thank you for teaching me so much!!!!!
I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience
You are so welcome!
Oh man, I think I commented about this awhile back! Thank you for this!!! You just cleared up a few things for me that I didn't even realize.
This upload, was very enlightening! I too, had friends in the '90s, building engines with .003 clearance, on the rods and mains, running 20w50. They were like 6.90, 1/8 mile cars. Nothing, special. Thumbs up, as always!
Glad you enjoyed it
Bravo! Love you style and breadth of knowledge, and most importantly your willingness to share it.
I appreciate that!
That was really interesting, always something to learn I will look forward to that video.
Definitely
I worked in big industry for 27 years. A steam generation plant. Three coal fired boilers, 3 steam turbines attached to 3 generators. Each turbine had 3 separate oil pumps. A main oil pump that was primed by an auxiliary oil pump and a DC backup oil pump. The generator bearings were protected by 2 oil pumps. I was not there the day it happened but our #3 turbine went from 3600 to Zero right quick due to starved bearing lubrication. Them boys didn't have a good day.
Sounds rough
Another damn good video! This is where I go when I want to learn something, because of how much info you put in your videos. This is now my "Can't wait for the next video" channel.
Ty,! We really appreciate it
The best explanations ive heard.
Thank you!
Dang, that was a great listen, and packed with things I didn't know that I didn't know. Awesome topic, and the cut-away view of the engine priming sounds excellent.
Glad 8t was helpful
Excellent info Daniel....Thank you.
My pleasure!
Watching it multiple times taking notes, just to make sure i understand lol. Thank you for a great video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is fantastic explanation of sbc distributor gear wear
Glad it was helpful!
Love watching your videos.
Glad you like them!
What a great learning experience. Thank you, sir. The first time I primed an engine with the intake manifold removed, I was absolutely amazed at how much oil escaped between the body of the lifters and the block.
Absolutely
Great video. It makes me feel that I made a good decision going with a higher volume pump in my LS. Thanks for your time.
Glad I could help
very nice explanation ...a lot of people do not realize that...
Thanks Brother for clearing the muddy water!
Any time!
Loud and clear, that microphone sounds great 👍
Good to hear!
Great video and great insight. I have a freshly built 6.0 LS with a turbo attached to it and I opted for the high volume pump and even after running it for about 2k miles i was starting to second guess it when getting a small bit of lifter noise on cold starts, instead i changed to a lighter weight oil and the noise went away. Fast forward to now and i find this video confirming my suspicions. Thank you sir, you gained a new sub.
Welcome aboard!
Volume increases pressure, which is relieved by the relief spring.
Your pressure won't drop as much at idle with a high volume pump, but total pressure is dictated by your relief.
Yep
Heres a way to run an experiment to show how low an oil pan gets, HV oil pump vs. Std vol... Put a sight glass on an oil pan from the bolts to the bottom... That should settle the issue once and for all... Along with different oil weights...
Great info! I've heard running larger bearing clearances on the #2, #3, #4 mains helps to accommodate for a bit of crankshaft flex, but your statement @ 10:00 made sense.
Great point!
Cool vid on lubrication and oil pumps.
Ty!
Another Great informative video! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience sir.
My pleasure!
Dry systems have been backing up your research for years
Excellent and informative as always, my dad had a friend who was into old Caddy engines and he was a well respected engine rebuilder(called himself "doctor of motors" complete with a lab coat) and he swore by straight 5W and claimed he never had an engine failure due to lubrication issue. He used to say what you just did, only I understood you better...he was from Germany and hard to understand at times. Thank you for sharing what you have learned.
Good deal
Hi Daniel, enjoy your info videos and tech knowledge, wish we had you here down under 👍… when I built my last Coronet RT440 Mopar with a Milodon HV pump I drilled/tapped my drain plug 1/4” NPT and fitted a hose tail with about 3 feet of clear 3/8” plastic tubing and attached that up to the inner guard. Then I was able to clearly see what the oil level was doing as I revved the engine up. This enabled me to add another quart to the full mark (engine cold) and within 15 seconds of idling on the choke at 1100rpm the oil level had dropped back to 5/16” -3/8” below the dip stick full mark. With the engine running at 3500rpm and 80psi gauge, there was still almost 3” of oil still in the pan. Initial fill with extra quart had the level just above the windage tray and on startup within 15secs that extra oil plus some had disappeared in circulation. All this with a stock pan.
Yep, mopars need a good pan!
I am really looking forward to the video of the lower end leakage. I hope you're able to do it soon. I raced circle track SBC's in the late 70's & early 80's. I had a mentor that raced & passed his knowledge along to me. What an advantage. I, especially now 40 some years later, know that I wasted very little money on unnecessary things. I, he taught me, to used high volume pumps, stock oil pans & how to make our own oil pump pickups out of copper pipe & window screen. Keep up the great video's.
Will do!
Thanks for the video!! I am far from an "engine builder" or machinist, but as a MoPar man (with some BB Buicks thrown in), I have read, experimented and learned about oil/oiling systems and clearances. I have adopted and adhered to the thin oil, HV pump and loose clearances (.001" per ournal inch, aprox.) theory. With the metered/timed oil to the rocker shafts, via the cam bearings/camshaft holes, and free return flow through the heads/valley, I've never really worried about pumping the pan dry on MoPars. The biggest problem with these engines with a production pan for most chassis is oil control (supply) to the pickup, as the sump is in a middle position, and oil tends to ride up the sump and get wadded up at the rear of the pan near the back counterweights, under a hard launch. Oil pans with rear sumps and tubes for the (rear) steering center link to pass through are available, but are a bit extreme for anything but full race. I use straight 30w non-detergent or 5w30 oil for break in, depending on camshaft type and I do add ZDDP on anything flat tappet. I am building a 377 (400 with destroker crank) SBC with a coworker, and am looking forward to doing a Chevy for a change, and especially a destroker. I found a Melling HV-ST pump at Summit's Scratch-N-Dent sale for $75, and it will be my first time trying a helical hear pump. We plan on using 3/4 groove main bearings and a 7qt oil pan. I like your suggestion of full oil volume to the lifters, and restricted flow pushrods, which I probably will use on this street/strip engine (more street!). I enjoy your channel and appreciate the tech!! RB
Super interesting talk. I've always wondered why certain older car guys used thicker oils when I was growing up. IMO It's similar to electricity, your voltage is your pump, ohms are your oil passages and the current is the net pressure. Gotta make sure you put in the right ingredients otherwise you end up with a lot of excess heat, same as those poor cranks lol.
Great point!
Bearings spitting oil out of the sides has been hashed and re-hashed topic as long as I can remember . One of the first things I heard as a youngster was about gauging main bearing wear . It was " When you're oil pressure is low , it tells you your mains are worn " . Maybe not those exact words , but close . I've believed that for well over 50 years and still do , but with no concrete proof . You mention priming a system without an oil pan ? I'd sure like to see that video when it comes ou ! There's always the discussion about standard OEM pumps vs High Pressure vs High Volume pumps . Lots of discussion , lots of theory , but no real proof ...yet . Thanks to the family for all the hard work and information .
💯
The oil that goes to the bearings has to come out somewhere. And there is clearance between the bearing and crank as well as to the sides of the bearing. With that clearance and no seal to hold the oil in it’s going to push the oil out from the gaps.
That’s why worn bearings tend to cause lower oil pressure. The increased clearance makes it easier for the oil to flow out so the pressure goes down.
@21:15 - you said "Galleys" Caught ya! LoL I was just crediting you on Steve Morris's channel that you told me that Galleys are on ships and oil runs through Galleries.
All in fun, just thought it was funny that yesterday I quoted you (saying you corrected my 40+ y.o. use of "oil galley") and today you said galley.
All good. Thanks again for great content.
Lol, and I never say that, but I did this time....
Great content. @9:45 That's the first use of "mastodonic" I've ever heard. You taught me AGAIN!
Lol
Good episode. Couple of thoughts: 1. Some motors like the 455 Olds and the FE Fords have priority oiling to the cam and rockers. If they are stock, when they get to high RPM they will fill the valve covers. This is a real problem in boats using these engines that sit at 4500 for long time periods. But it happened to FE's on the drag strip too. That's why we ran them a qt over full back in the day. So they'd still have oil pressure at the big end of the track. 2. If you build SBC's and BBC's like I do, you can use the extra volume. I slot the lower boss on the distributor body to oil the the cam gear with high flow. I also drill the front lifter galley plugs to over oil the timing set. I install a lower pressure relief spring in the oil pump because I don't want to waste HP making pressure for no reason. 45 PSI is all I run. But oil everywhere. 0W-30 all day, every day 😀
Hi Daniel, Thanks for the video! Well I for one was always worried about sucking air in the oil pan with a high volume pump if I didn't have everything right as far as windage ,a windage tray, Crank scraper and a baffle to stop the oil from climbing the back of the block (this is all in reference to drag racing). I also restricted the oil galley to the lifters which I was going to remove. I didn't know about the restrictor push rods, thanks for that info! I used a stock pan and extended the sump two inches and after a burn out I was on the brakes and seen the oil pressure drop below 45 psi. so I put a trap door in the pan and that stopped that. I was also running 40 weight oil and that will be changed. This is all in a small journal SBC in a 65 Chevelle! I really appreciate all this info Daniel Thanks!👍👍
You are very welcome
Yeah I like this video,pure putting like it is. Excellent job
Thank you very much!
Been building engines for years one person machine shop what you said is true been saying that for years
💯
Great info ... it’s amazing how many “old wives tales” are still out there today
Unfortunately
I love catching up with your vids since I subbed.
Glad you like them!
Mopar la engins always seemed to have oil problems, so i modify the cam to full oil pressure the rockers and add a squirter hole in the timing cover to give timing chain extra oil. Have always used HV melling oil pumps to give them a good idle oil pressure. At 4000 rpm there at there regulated oil pressure. I was told it was to much oil pressure at rpm but i always used the same example as u used with the hydraulic system, thats what the releif valve is for. Great info, more people need it. Thanks.
💯
I have just purchased a used 2015 Grand Cherokee with the 5.7 Hemi. It has only travelled 22,300klms. I have ordered the Melling 10452HV oil pump from Summit. Will also use 5w-30 racing oil, Penrite 10 Tenths, change every 5,000klms.
Yup, in the 70s we used to run straight 50w oil in our performance engines...CRAZY! ... 😂😂😂
Absolutely
On the early sb chevys some people would complain about sucking the pan dry because of the pump . But every case I tackled in that department was a pan slosh problem mostly in circle track cars . The pressure never zeroed out but went low enough to light a 10 to 15 lb oil light in or just before the corners , after a pan change problem solved.
Yep
The first time I saw what is happening with oil going through an engine I was amazed. I didnt realize that much oil leaked through an engine.
Yep
I have heard the same High Volume oil pump propaganda, this is great info, thank you, sir. Keep sluggin
Thanks, will do!
very good info! Thanks! just confirms that 540ratblog engineer oil testing standards are proven and he always said run 5w30 unless that weight fails to maintain enough oil pressure, maybe then move up viscosity. another good point 540rat makes is 5w30 thinness flows faster than heavier weight and carries away heat faster
Thank you!
Anything over 80psi can cause bearing washout anyhow. A friend that built race cars in the 80s knew this, and taught me to just use the 10w-30, even back then. Thicker oil flows slower and doesn't help things like cooling the bottoms of the piston crowns etc... My buddy ran clearances at about .002" Basically built engines like a "well broken in engine" with 60k miles on it. Maybe a bit looser, but you get the point.
Great video explanation. Thank you sir!!!!
Yw
Excellent video. I'm guilty of thinking a HV pump would suck my GTO pan dry since it only holds 4.5 to 5.0 quarts max. Always ran a Melling 10295 STD volume High pressure. Love this channel.
Ty
I remember that time in the 90s. Dyno results started popping up in magazines showing results for 0 weight oil. Might have been bike racers doing it first. My main thought was holy shit I knew it was going to make more power, but I never would have guessed that much.
Nice talk.. someday I need to figure out the old y block fords.
I think the sucking the pan dry thing comes from certain engines, like here in Australia, the Holden 308 and later 304efi, they're similar to a Pontiac V8 with some other GM features. Well they used to fill the rocker covers as the drain backs were to small for racing, so the pan level would drop. To solve this issue you can drill the oil drain backs bigger, also a lot of guys will do an external drain, this was documented on Aussie V8 forum by an engine builder Tony Knight.
Also the reason people know this is the case with the Holden V8 is that when you move to a solid cam you add a oil restrictor which solves the issue, then guys started to drill out the drain backs to 9/16 and it also solves the problem.
I think it might've been a big issue on Bathurst as the uphill section is steep and you would only have one hole to drain back per head as the front holes wouldn't get flow just like in a drag race which is why the external drain backs go at the back.
Also this issue with the Holden happens with a standard OEM pump too.
All good stuff! My GMC truck with the L8T I believe has a variable oil pressure pump along with variable valve timing. With low rpm the oil pressure is low, I’m not sure how mechanically they increase oil pressure with power output. It’s a different world with the new engines. Great video!
The bypass valve is electric
That I didn’t know, thanks for the info!
1980 - 20/50 in the engine, 2020 - 20/50 in the differential. low viscosity for better fuel economy started in the early 80's.
💯
We had some circle track small block chevys take out the pump gear with standard volume pump and 10-30 oil with .002 bearing clearances. I was suspecting cam walk could of been the cause? Not every engine showed wear at the gear. A good front cover with adjustable shims @ the cam seems to of helped.
Great info, really looking forward to the oil priming video just for visuals
Coming soon!
I put a laboratory quality oil pressure gauge on my first car, 1977 Honda Civic. Dead nuts 70 psi.......hot or cold.........fresh or used oil........ idle or 5 grand.....even at 100,000 miles when the chassis was rusted out. Caused me to be a bit of a Hondaman for many future cars.
Ive used high volume oil pumps for 30 years with stock pans never had any problems sucking oil pan dry,but all my sbc i grind them for better oil return, alot of flash in some holes.
Yep
This is the reason im puting a new hr engine in my z rn i bet you 100% My oil presure was at like 5-10 psi idle and60-70 reved up. All ove the place liike you say. my brother put a light weight synthetic oil in it. It has spun a rod berring i really feal like.
ive always believed the same thing . Ive tried for 20 years to convince people of this . When we ran 360 2BBl class 86" cars people were cutting clearances loose And running VR50 Valvoline with Lucas oil stabilizer so they would have oil pressure whe ran tight with 5W30 and a Melling HV pump and had awesome oil pressure and after a seasonal tear down the bearings still looked good. Didnt have cam gear issues like a lot of guys did. You are 100% right about this .
great info thank you saludps
Our pleasure!
I'm a dirt an asphalt racer... I personally use 20/50 vr1... I've found if you let the car warm up really good before reving/ driving it helps alot with the wear issue... Never ever start up an rev a cold motor with thick oil was one of the first things I was taught 25 + years ago....
Time to be open to new ideas, especially from someone's experience.
Thank you Sir!
You are welcome!
I usually run a hp/sv pump with stock pans seems to work good
Man I can’t thank you enough for this video! My engine is out of my car at the machine shop for the second time now. This engine (ls3 with forged rods and pistons, stock crank) has roughly 1300 miles on it and has ate 2 sets of bearings now. The shop who built it originally was in Michigan set my bearing clearance’s @ .0265 and told me to run 20/50. Well when I pulled the motor after about 900 miles because I kept seeing metal in my oil those bearings looked worse then my 100k motor that was originally in the car. Took it to a local machine shop they tore it apart. Scratched their heads and said the don’t know why and blamed it on possible dirty build or debris. So they put it back together set my bearings even looser .0275 and told me to run 20/50 again and guess what the motor was pulled after 300 miles due to still seeing metal in oil. Now different machine shop but they too are a little confused as to why. I’ve been thinking this whole time it’s oil and oil volume. It had a 296 high pressure meiling pump. Car is running a 2650 sc. this time around I’m going to run a high volume and not going to run 20w 50 anymore. Oh also my oil pressure was no where near like it was with my stock motor . It was mid low 20’s hot idle and was high 50’s at wot with the 20w50. What oil do you recommend when I get it back. Also I really wish I had just shipped you the motor. Another question if you don’t mind. This current machine shop says I shouldn’t be using a stock ls3 crank for my build. That I should have a forged piece. I’m ok with that really, my question is if my bore is 4.070 and my rods are 6.125 then if I want to go 416 stroker motor the only thing I need to do is get a crank that’s 4.00 stroke and cammed for 6.125 rods am I correct in this thinking? Thank you sir in advance if you get back to me I really appreciate it. I’ve just had a really tough time with this engine.
Your welcome!
He must not read all of it, if you change the stroke and keep the same rod length you will need to change the compression height on the pistons, so new pistons. Stroke÷2 + rod length + compression height minus deck height will let you know where your at but should always be verified from top of deck with a dial gauge.
@@stevenbelue5496 thanks brother, I felt he didn’t read it either! I know he’s a busy guy though so I get it. I appreciate your input though!
I filled the valve cover on a small block Mopar in the past on a circle track engine. I had a tiny rust pit in the valve cover that would spew oil after a few laps. I fixed it by restricting the oil flow to the rocker shafts. I rediced that too much and killed the valve springs. Lesson kearned.
You are 💯% correct. You are not going to empty the oil pan with a high volume oil pump. Try priming the engine with the intake & valve covers removed. You can see what it’s doing. Our shop using 10w30 in sbc & drill to prime. You better have a T handle on drill motor. We burnt out drill motors priming engines until boss got us a Milwaukee and when I retired that drill motor was still working great. We were just a fleet shop not an engine machine shop
Have seen some instances of top end oil trapping in DOHC turbo motors. Seems common source of the problem is venting the valve cover, and blow by venting back through the returns, impeding oil return to the crankcase, for the direction of flow of crankcase pressure being opposite the oil return path.
Great info, Thanks Brother
Any time!
I agree with you 100%!!!! great video!!!
Thanks for watching!