Comp Cams Evolution Lifters Removed, Stock GM Lifters Installed
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- This is the 3rd set of lifters in this engine in 2 years. The first set were Comp Cams LS Retrofit, they were horribly noisy, I have posted video of them running. I experimented with 3 different length push rods because they said maybe I didn't calculate the length correctly. The push rod length is not was not the cause and I ruled that out by process of elimination.
I replaced those with a set of the new Comp Cams Evolution series. They said the Evolution series are way better. They are not much better in my experience. All I can say for them is they are a little less noisy. I have videos of the Evolution lifters running too.
They said I need to use the right oil. I tried 3 different types of oil over a year and a half of running them. The oil made no difference at all.
I have now installed a set of stock GM lifters. They are using a 7.350" push rod and the preload is about .06" which is within spec. They have about 12 hours run time here, which is about half the time they need for full run-in from what I have experienced in the last 2 years.
After 3 engine tear downs and good money after bad, I am done with Comp Cams lifters. The engine has a Comp Cams camshaft and I'm happy with that, but I will never use Comp Cams lifters on anything again.
I remember when cars built in the 60s were so quiet you had to give it some gas pedal to make sure the engine hadn't died, idling quietly at 600 rpm. And then there were the weekend drive-in hotrods with a Crane cam that sounded like a drum solo. Good times...
Some guys say the problems with both flat tappet and roller lifters are a result of bad installation/ break-in methods. I come from the hot rodding days of the 1960s and I say bull! In the 1960s, we seldom had any problems with the cams/lifters that builders have today. Throw a cam and lifters in with assembly lube and away you go with no issues. There are several qualified cam grinders/ machinists and YT that have discovered the problems with todays cam assemblies. And this is it: terrible QA and bad specifications on every measureable dimension and variable hardness values. No one has had the alloys or metallurgy tested as the manufactures don't release any information of that. Who knows, the wear ability could be questionable too. This all translates to garbage parts. We used to say made in China but now days engine parts could be made anywhere. So either pay double for quality name brands or OEM. No mystery folks-JUNK.
I had a flat hydraulic cam round off one lobe in a SBC about 40 years ago, but at least the lifters were quiet on installation. I did cam & lifter installs on SBCs and a BBC or 2, never had the whole set noisy out of the box like that. This situation took me by surprise, and I have since run into a number of others in comment threads having similar experience. I just took another short video last night of the stock GM lifters idling after returning home from a 1-hour drive. It's been close to 3 months of run time now and they have settled in to their pattern. They don't sound too bad. I will post the video soon, it's only 1 minute long.
It's not your fault if preload and oil pressure are in spec . I just installed a set of APA 4x4 lifters in a LS engine and it sounds okay . The lifters are made in the USA , if that matters. I do not have the foam bridges installed under the intake so there is a sewing machine sound but no ticking. Also the cam is .600 lift with PAC springs so naturally it is expected to have more valve train noise . This engine has not been driven on the street , it is on an engine run stand with about 2 hours of run time .
Mine has a new oil pump and there is 48 psi idling at 550 rpm with the oil fully hot. The cam profile is very mild, basically stock with .05" more lift at the valve than what the stock cam had. The springs are basic beehives, the whole valve train is new and I have experimented with 3 different push rod lengths that all fall within runnable range on the preload, they all sound the same. Maybe I will try a set of APA lifters next time the engine comes out for rebuild. I would still like to see/hear a video of new recently purchased Comp lifters running quiet if anybody out there has had that experience.
After having a local speed shop change out the stock 114k mile cam and valve train in my fun daily '04 C5 with an LS1, there was (more) valve train noise. The owner of the shop said because of the BTR stage 1 cam with .600 lift, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, Johnson slow leak lifters, etc., it sounds like the lifters are ticking, but they're not. Now the engine sounds like a sewing machine because of the aftermarket valve train. It took some getting used to because the car initially went in the shop to fix a lifter tick on cold start-up for a few minutes.
@@mlc7boosted You've got a lot more cam in yours than I have in mine. As I understand it when the cam profile is more aggressive it can result in a little more noise because the aggressive profile basically makes it harder for the hydraulic mechanism in the lifter to do the job of taking up the "lash" while following the lobe. So basically they are ticking. Saying it only sounds like they are ticking but they are not really ticking is kinda misleading. If you hear ticking, then ticking is what you have.
But then there is the issue of lifters doing a shit job when they could be doing a better job. Sure, they can't be dead quiet but I think they could be a little quieter than they are. I think these lifters are ticking too damn easy, then when you complain they brush you off with excuses.
Then there is the issue of the lifters sounding quiet when cold and getting noisy when hot. The cam profile does not cause that. All 3 sets of lifters I had in my engine were quiet when cold and noisy when hot. I think they are just making shit lifters these days.
I'm thinking 3inch side pipes with glass packs will fix these lifters. I think that I am glad that I sold my Silverado, kept the 454 Suburban and bought a Challenger to replace the Silverado.
I hear the Dodges are having lifter problems too. I hope I get the 66 Fairlane going before the Challenger gets to ticking.
Who currently makes Glasspack mufflers? I'm thinking about buying stock in a glass glasspack muffler manufacturer!
Ya'll Take Care, John
Regardles if you buy brand new standard hydraulic lifters from comp or Isky, send them and your camshaft to Delta Camshafts to have those lifter faces resurfaced to guarentee the lobes have a .0015 to .002 taper crown, same with your cam. The cam and lifters tapers must match for the lifters to sping right or your going to kill that cam and engine at start up or soon after. Id send a brand new roller cam to Delta Cam's for regrind just make sure its not going to fail.
Are you referencing hydraulic flat tappet or roller lifters?
These are rollers
@@chris_bjj123 yes I know, im just saying about standard hydraulic. If I bought a brand new roller cam from comp or isky I would still send it to Delta Cams for regrinding since the quality of comp and isky is below par these past couple of years, just my opinion
@@Spiritof_76 im just saying about standard hydraulic. If I bought a brand new roller cam from comp or isky I would still send it to Delta Cams for regrinding since the quality of comp and isky is below par these past couple of years, just my opinion
While there are exceptions to every rule, you will seldom find any aftermarket part with better all around performance and reliability than OEM.
The tough part about making a vid like this is sound: gettin EQ right so fan & belt noise is less prominent.
There are all kinds of noises under the hood. Even the injector pulses can be heard and distinguished. There is also a growl from the straight cut gears in the supercharger, which is normal. There is alternator whine and noise from the A/C compressor, and of course the fan. The audio rendering from the recording device is good enough, I can hear everything on the video that my ears heard. The lifters are not hard to hear. If I take the recording device and get under the engine with it and hold it right up to the engine then yes you will hear a very isolated rendering of the valve train noise, but I'm only interested in a real world sample of what can be heard standing near the outside of the truck.
Noise aside, did the cam & lifters actually fail? Were any parts damaged or broken?
No breakage or failures but there were quality defects. One set of push rods is ~ .02" over length and the ends appear to be not hardened correctly because they show undue wear for the low hours they ran. Not using those anyway, I have written them off. Then there was one lifter in the LS Retrofit set that needed deburring on the OD turn, that set was the first set with really bad noise, I had to remove the burr myself, no big deal except it shows poor QC. That set was returned for refund and then I bought the Evolutions. The cam lobes and lifter rollers show very light scratches that won't catch a fingernail, very light, no undue wear. The camshaft itself runs well and does what I want in terms of performance, idle and drivability, no complaints on the cam.
Great job , but did any of the Evolution actually Fail ??? I drove heavy trucks in a gravel quarry for 30 years , I would never notice that tick ... Would Love to know why you changed the First set ??? Again , Great job !!! john
The first set I used was what Comp calls their LS Retrofit. They were very noisy. I have video posted of them running in Nov 2021. Then I replaced those with the Comp Evolution series that had just come out, installed in Mar 2022. They were less noisy than the LS Retrofit. I posted video of the Evolutions running right after installation too. I had high hopes for them and ran them over a year hoping they would settle down. But in the end they were still too noisy to suit me, so I replaced them with GM stock lifters which are quieter. No, the Evolution lifters did not exactly fail. They will run if you don't mind the noise. But they are unacceptably noisy to me, and others who heard them in person didn't like how they sounded either. Comp has admitted they had noise problems with their LS Retrofit lifters and they claim the Evolutions have solved those problems. I think they need to do a little better.
Was the sound from bad lifters or from the tie bars? The tie bars do make noise.
It comes from bad lifters. I can tell by the way they are quiet when cold and slowly get noisy as the oil warms up. Also I can hear individual lifters making more noise than the rest, and each bank has one or two standing out from the rest. The link bars don't sound like that. Comp Cams engineers even admitted in their own TH-cam video that they were having noise issues with their earlier series lifters in a discussion about how they claim that the new Evolution series totally solves the problem. I bought the Evolutions, they are noisy too. I will never buy them again.
Other than the noise, they performed as the should?
Did they take different length pushrods with the comps and different preload?
The Comp Evolution series need a shorter push rod than the Comp LS Retrofit series or the stock GM. I experimented with 3 different lengths and shims under the rocker pedestal for exact preload. The push rods come in length increments of .05". By using shims I can split the difference in effective length between sets of push rods. Small changes in preload made no change in how they sound as long as they are inside the plunger range.
You didn't know that the performance lifters are noisy?
Wow, what a difference. I've been a fan of Comp Cams for probably 30 years roughly but only installed a few of their cams and lifters in a friend's 78 Trans Am with a 455 almost that long ago. I don't recall us having issues like you had but our installs were over 25 years ago. I hope you would try to get your money back from Comp Cams and if they don't refund your money, they would be stupid not to. This video is obvious evidence that their lifters were shit so I don't know how they could argue with audible proof that theirs sucked and the vehicle's engine now sounds fine with regular stock lifters.
I bought 2 sets of lifters from Comp Cams for this engine. The first set was their LS retrofit series, which is a link bar lifter. They were horribly noisy, worse than what you hear with the Evolutions in this video. I have older video on my channel of those running too.
I returned the LS retrofit lifters for refund authorization. Then I ordered the Evolutions, which had just come out at the time, and I had to wait longer than 3 months to receive them. I ran the Evolutions about a year and gave them a fair chance. I tried to tell a Comp rep over the phone (His name was Wally Briton) that the Evolutions are also noisy, but he just argued with me and preached about using the right oil. I also had trouble with the refund he granted me on the LS retrofit lifters, for some reason it did not show up on my credit card. I called the cc and they said the problem was not on their end. I sent Wally about 5 or 6 emails and he never replied. The first correspondence I had with him was when he reached out to me via email and gave me his phone #, I spoke with him by phone and email several times. As far as could tell he was now ignoring my emails when I tried to tell him the refund didn't go thru. I finally called Comp and just talked to whomever I could get in customer service, some lady whose name I don't remember took my call and re-sent my refund, and it finally went thru.
It looks like I'm stuck with the Evolutions. I will never buy Comp lifters again. If anybody else bought Comp lifters recently that aren't noisy, I'd like to hear a video of them running quiet.
@@onemoremisfit man that sounds like a shit show that you went through and that's unfortunate that you had to go through it.
I have a few small businesses but I have to contact other businesses sometimes such as my cell phone carrier or credit card company or maybe even places like a Walmart or Amazon or whatever. I get so tired of how poorly ran many of the larger businesses are in our country and they just don't give a shit about their clients. Occasionally, I will run into one company that is better than others and there is actually one that sticks out in my mind that is actually a pretty good one that is one of our local cable companies named Midcontinent Cable but outside of them, I can't think of too many companies that are on my good list.
The obvious problem that pretty much all of them have is that the majority of them have foreign speaking representatives that don't speak fluent enough English to be able to understand them well and they don't understand you well enough so then you have to repeat a lot of your issues with them over and over. That's if you even get somebody that you can speak with in the first place which is the problem with a lot of companies nowadays.
There are many companies that it's really a pain in the ass to just to get to talk to an actual human to begin with. But then, even if you do, nothing ever gets done. You can ask to speak to a supervisor or manager but they will just tell you that they are either not available or busy or that they don't actually have one and that you aren't allowed to really speak with the manager at all. And this obviously sucks.
I can't believe that Comp Cams actually tried to argue with you that these were not noisy and then it was about oil. Holy crap. You shouldn't have to worry about running that much of a specific oil that it's going to make them that noisy. Obviously there is a reason why they have different weights and types of oil for different types of engines. I'm not disputing that. But, it sounds like it's just an excuse to try to make it your fault instead of them acknowledging that they have a shitty part that they are putting out.
@@eldridge201 Everyone I spoke to at Comp was fluent in English and clearly not a foreigner. The first guy I contacted was Bryan Pitcher, and this was before I bought anything. Bryan's direct line was given to me by the engine builder who worked on my cylinder heads. I needed advice on cam selection, they said call Bryan, he'll help you out, and he did. Bryan recommended the cam for me and it is exactly what I wanted in terms of how the engine runs. It wasn't his fault the lifters were noisy.
I can look at things from their side. These products are intended for people who know what they are doing and there are a lot of ways you can have bad results that are not the fault of the product.
At first Bryan was talking like I didn't get the push rod length right, and in reality it is possible that incorrect length can be the cause of the noise. But after buying 3 sets of different length push rods, ruling out that possibility by trial & error, making video to document the results and sending it to Bryan, he said it looked like I needed to change the lifters. He said he would authorize the return and someone else would make the decision for any refund. So from there I dealt with other people.
I did get a refund on the first set with some hassle and I didn't even try to get a refund on the second set because I just don't want to argue any more. Even if Comp sent me another free set I would not use them because there is way too much labor and out of pocket expense for gaskets, bolts etc that must be new any time you R&R the heads to even take another chance on them. I would buy another Comp cam but the bridge between me and Comp lifters is burned.
@@onemoremisfit I agree that there are many ways that you can screw things up when building an engine and have various things happen and sometimes only a matter of a small millimeter of a difference of something can totally change the dynamics and physics and clearance characteristics of the internal engine components which can result in catastrophic failure. I totally get all that. And so, that's why I said that I understand that a certain type of oil and weight has a different characteristic depending on the different type of engine as far as how it will run initially and also long-term and the effects that it can have on the overall wear of that engine.
But, in this case, it sounds like you were doing your due diligence and did more than enough to try to remedy the situation and make sure that you have everything correct. And in the end, it sounds like you were the one that was trying to get blamed for the issues when it was simply a problem of a crappy part from comp cams.
I understand that sometimes it gets frustrating having to try to get returns and refunds taken care of but in my opinion, if you pay for the product or service, you should get the refund even if you have to do it multiple times. Obviously, in this case, it sounds like the problem was resolved simply by putting new lifters in so even if they had to return your money three or four times, that's what they should have done. Obviously, it's your choice whether or not to pursue the additional refund that extra one or two more times so you can obviously do whatever you want. I'm just saying I wouldn't want to lose money especially when it wasn't my fault. And yes, you're obviously correct that it's not just the money in the lifters themselves. To redo the entire repair correctly, you should be replacing gaskets each time and initially you should be replacing bolts if they are a certain type of bolt that requires replacement so this all costs money. Not to mention changing oil again and things of that nature that also adds to the cost of everything. In the end, it's not even really the lifters that are the big cost involved. It's the stupid gaskets an extra fluids and lubricants and things of that nature as well as the stupid extra time that you had to spend doing the repair two or three or four more times that's completely unnecessary that gets costly.
Cool video , are the foam noise and debris bridges still installed under the intake manifold ? Valve train noise is much more prominent without the foam bridges installed . Great video .
Thanks, the foam pieces under the intake are in place.
the W in 5W-30 stands for Winter.
Another oil preacher? Tell me how your scriptural citation is relevant.
@@onemoremisfit how a man takes criticism says a lot about his character.
@@MWilk098 I asked you how what you claim a letter on viscosity index label stands for is relevant.
BTW I know what the letters and numbers on the viscosity index stand for. I've known this information for over 50 years. I know what base stock is. I know what polymer viscosity modifier additive is. I've seen the stuff in its pure state, it looked like rubber cement and had no lubricant properties in itself. I have some understanding of how viscosity modifiers interact with base stock and how multi-viscosity ratings are derived and for what purpose. I have some understanding of how multi-viscosity oils behave long term under forces such as pressure, shear, thermal cycling and severe heat. My late uncle founded, owned and operated a small company that made specialty industrial lubricants, and they also carried a line of automotive oils and greases. I happen to know a little bit about oil. Maybe you know more than I do and can teach me something, but you sure don't sound like it.
Now you pivot to some lame online troll tier philosophical blurb.
This is about lifters that don't run quiet.
Look man, share a relevant experience, make a relevant point, ask a relevant question or GTFO. Spare me the obtuse online d1m-vv1tt3ry posing as wisdom.
I have 2 sets of flat tappet hydraulic lifters and half wont pump up so I switched to a flat tappet solid cam and lifters, I won't use comp stuff again.
GM IS GOOD. I THINK THEY ARE MADE BY JOHNSON. GOOD STUFF
Why would you put tie bars in a ls?
I was asking myself the very exact same question, why would he do that?
Crazy question. Have you checked the size and condition of the lifter bores? Also there are better lifters out there like Johnson etc.
I would ask the QC dept of the company that made them that crazy question. I'm supposed to be paying for something that has already been checked for quality before it is sold. I do believe there are better lifters out there but I only have one lifetime and I've already had 3 sets of lifters in one engine now.
No. The lifter bores in the block not the actual lifters. They could be worn and larger than original spec
All I hear is your wipple needs the oil changed. With the so miner of a cam, you really don't need a different lifters. But comp cams are not that good over the cam you got. Howard cams and lifters are way nice. Closer to what the old 60s and 70s were built to. I would put a link but I just got mine for my 65 ford f100, 390 and it's 15f degrees with snow. I wish I had a warm garage to swap them in, but i got to wait so my fingers don't freeze.
The Whipple has fresh oil and it always growled like that from the day it was new, that growling sound comes from the straight-cut gears in it. I know a mild cam does not "need" link bar lifters, but who says I have to "need" something in order to have it? What does "need" have to do with bad lifters that won't run as quiet as they should? Is that supposed to be some kind of excuse for a bad product? Are the lifters just noisy because I didn't "need" them anyway? BTW the cam in the engine right now is Comp and it is very mild with .05" more lift at the valve than stock. I do not want a rough-idling cam like almost everybody else wants. I want the engine to idle smooth as stock at 550 rpm, and that's what it does. So I do like the Comp cam, but I will never use their lifters again.
I'd also add that 5w30 oil is not the best weight for a modified engine. You are creating more heat with your setup. GM recommends that weight for fuel economy and not performance or longevity. Have you talked to anyone about running a high quality 5w40 or even 5w50 ?
Trust me I'm not crazy
Yes they preached to me about oil. I've had straight 30w mineral base in it, 10w40 full synthetic in it, 10w30 semi synthetic in it, and now 5w30 full synthetic in it, and it sounds exactly the same with any oil, no difference. I'm done with the oil preaching. And I ain't putting (X)w50 in it because it has to be winter driven, so don't go there. We had -14F here a couple weeks ago. You can't use oil that thick here and expect to crank it over in that kind of cold. On the topic of oil heat, the engine has dual remote large can oil filters and a pretty good size oil cooler in front of the radiator, together those items reject a lot of heat. The oil in my engine is running cooler than any equivalent stock engine in a stock truck without those things. It is not really what I'd call a performance engine anyway, it is a bone stock bottom end and the engine runs fine. The problem is noisy lifters. I'm tired of excuses for noisy lifters and I've ruled out oil as the cause.
Brother you have a bad attitude towards someone who is honestly trying to help. And a 5w50 synthetic oil has the 5 winter weight. So I can conclude you don't know much about oil viscosity. Sorry I bothered trying to help
@@tonym6854 You are argumentative and I don't mind, I answered your arguments, now you're claiming victimhood over nothing. Knock it off. You apparently don't comprehend what you read. Go back and re read how I tried a wide spectrum of different oils already with no change in results, I have oil coolers etc. 5w50 is NOT appropriate for 14 flipping degrees below zero. Knock it off. You are not an oil expert telling me anything I don't already know. Knock it off. It is possible for an engine to have O/S lifter bores but that is extremely rare. I have a number of other good reasons to doubt that, the first good reason is there is no visible wear at all on the OD of the original lifters, the ones that Chevy originally built the engine with, the ones that ran quiet, and I still have them. Don't you think I'd be looking for something like that when I first took the engine apart? It's more likely that the new lifters from some manufacturers are being poorly made, there are others out there having the same problem, I have heard from some of them.
You stated that your engine is not performance oriented yet you are running a supercharger on an engine that wasn't built for this. Hmmm. Genius.
Brother i am not in the victim hood. But maybe you should take a hard look at what you said. Honestly I don't believe that any of the noise you hear is detrimental. You have done a ton of unnecessary work for absolutely nothing. Did you think to run an oil analysis at any time to verify that the noisy alleged lifters were causing undue wear????
Also, it doesn't matter how many oil coolers you have. They will and I'm sure they do keep temperatures low. That is after the fact. Your oil can be heated to extremes in the block and cooling it afterwards will only help stop a more immediate damaging situation. Tell me your oil temps pre and post cooler. Because you've delved so far that you have surely checked. To think any 30 weight oil is ok is insane as its thinning to a 20w depending on base stock. A quality 5w40 or 50 would be absolutely fine in frigid temps as the 5w is the winter flow weight. The same as your 5w30. But you know this already because you have already dismissed any oil conversations because you have tried straight 30, 10w40, 5w30 ? Can't wait to watch your 4th lifter swap
I installed evolution lifters in my 5.7 hemi, same experience with proper preload. Mine made more noise than yours. I put oem lifters back in and it sounds perfect. I had a very mild comp cam in it.
Mine also has a mild Comp cam in it, the idle is stock as you can hear, and it has .05" more lift at the valve than stock for a mild performance increase. The heads and complete valve train are new, the timing set and oil pump are also new, all new front & rear seals, new dog bone, basically the engine has a top end rebuild and it runs clean and strong. I thought using Comp Cams link bar lifers would be a nice upgrade but I had no idea what I was in for. My engine is rev limited at 5500 rpm so there is really no need for anything more than stock lifters.
When I talked to a Comp Cams rep about the Evolutions being noisy all he did was dispute what I told him. He admitted there were problems with the LS retrofit series, but insisted the Evolution series was nothing but great. I told him my Evolutions sound bad and I have it posted on You Tube. His answer to that, without even viewing the video, was quote: "We'll just have to agree to disagree".
He handed me a bunch of preachy talk about using the right oil. When I asked for a specific recommendation, all he would say is "a good semi-synthetic blend". I used Mystik straight 30 mineral base oil, 0w-40 Mobil1, and Driven GP-1 10w-30. The different oils made no difference at all.
Comp gave me a refund on the LS retrofit lifters, but my guess is I'm stuck with the $600 for the Evolutions. I also have found defects in one set of the 3 sets of Comp Cams push rods I bought. Also there was one lifter in the LS retrofit set that was not deburred and it would not fit in the lifter bore until after I deburred it myself. That was a judgement call on my part to accept that, but that defect and the push rod defects shows a pattern of bad quality.
I have seen there are others out there who are having bad results with these lifters. I'm putting this video out there so others can be informed before spending their money. They make a good camshaft as far as I can tell, but I will never trust Comp Cams lifters again.
@@onemoremisfit my engine was very low mile 40k . Everything carefully inspected and assembled. I disassebled one of the lifters and I am pretty sure I understand the problem. In a regular lifter you have the piston and the bore(outer lifter housing is the bore). On the evolution lifters the bore and piston are removable from the lifter like a cartridge and held in place be a swap ring. That cartridge had 20 thousands up and down movement in the lifter body with swap ring in place. This isn't part of the hydraulic circuit. Hope that makes sense. With lifter pumped up you can shake lifter in your hand and hear the internal rattle back and forth.
@@rogeroaks2865 Yes I understand what you mean. I've heard there are other brands going to the short stroke cartridge style. Apparently the cartridge is easier to manufacture with the required precision than the old way of getting the precision in the lifter body bore, then they just mount the precision cartridge in a lifter body that does not need as much precision just to carry the cartridge. But I don't see how they can allow .02" of vertical play in the cartridge to body fit. It would have to be close to zero, like maybe the cartridge itself is supposed to expand and take up the play somehow, or maybe they must be individually fitted with shims to take up the vertical clearance, I don't know. Maybe if I'm stuck with my Evolutions I'll take them apart and see what is inside of mine.
The Evolutions take a shorter push rod than standard lifters. With a 7.35" push rod, I had to put a .03" shim under the rocker pedestal or else they were too long to operate. The 7.35" push rod fits the stock lifters without the shim.
My Evolutions didn't sound really bad while the engine is only partway warmed up. The other lifters I tried are the same way, they make all their loudest noise when the oil is the hottest. The OEM lifters almost vanish when partially warm, then they come back a little bit when hot.
@@onemoremisfit I purchased 1 extra lifter direct from comp cams to inspect, I didn't want to ruin a lifter I was going to use. In the hemi application it took .020 longer pushrods . Last comp lifters I used was in a bbc and they failed. Thank you so much for the vidio. It's important to get this info out.
@@onemoremisfit Bleed down rate can be a function of plunger [od] vs body [id] machining. Did you find a difference between what you pulled out vs replacements?
Motorvtakes 20x50 after 60k
If you want to hear the worst roller lifters just get some Morels. Absolute rubbish. I bought a set for my engine and they rattle like a steel bucket with rocks in it. Of course morel blame everything else, its oil, its clearances, its cam profile, its valve springs, its dirt always blame something else. Then after checking all those issues they simply wont respond or help any more.
Never buy Morel rubbish.
Costly learning experience????
Yes, I do get my share of those.
Comp stuff is crap. If you watch the factory tour with all the high fancy machines they can't make anything good either. For roller lifter forget you ever herd of roller bearing. Get a bush lifter like they do on the small end of a connection rod. Them littler bearing are not made right and break from the pounding. Why Edelbrock bought them. If they don't fix them they won't be any good either. Edelbrock heads were the valves won't seal and leak brake clean if you check them before you buy them. You have to buy bear heads and have good valves and other stuff put in plus some of there valves guides suck. You have to take them to a good machine shop to get good parts and fix there mess. Nobody seems to care anymore. CNC machines don't mean shit if not set up right and each part check to make sure there made right. Tool bits wear down and there goes the quality. And you don't know were the materials come from to make the steal and such.
There are so many things that that could be you keep changing the lifters and it is not getting any quieter I think I would look for a alternator bearing, a water pump, a belt tensioning pulley bearing all of these things can make that racket when the engine gets hot you keep changing lifters and nothing has changed so I think I would look for something different. PS I would even look at the brand of oil you are using you should know but Chevrolet highly recommends mobile one fully synthetic 5W 30 motor oil.
Funny you mention alternator and water pump because both of those went bad and were replaced during the time I went thru 3 sets of lifters. And 4 different types of oil too, which I already talked about. And no, the alternator or water pump or tensioner (also new) aren't going to sound like that. It's the lifters. I have been doing this long enough to know. Take it from me. I will never use Comp Cams lifters again.
@@onemoremisfit That is weird because I have the same engine in my 2009 GMC sierra pick up and you can’t even hear it run at any temperature until the electric fan kicks on. I had a noise that developed in the front of the motor I changed the serpentine belt and Wala it was gone, the belt was old and brittle and needed to be replaced. As far as comp cam lifters go I had a Solid roller lifter cam and lifters from Comp in my 72 nova that required .016 and .018 valve lash and cross link bars And they still didn’t make that much grinding noise or even that much valve lash tappet noise.