Depending on your design, a really good way to get rid of a lot of stitches and help mitigate thread breaks is to hit up [Design settings] >> [remove small stitches]. I usually try to sit at .7mm but if I can get away with 1mm, I will. I've shaved off hundreds to thousands of stitches on a design to no ill effect. Though, it's always good to keep tabs on things like letters and points as it can mess with that. Sometimes you can only do a .5mm and that's okay. What I really like about it is that it removes the really short stitches that often appear around the edges of designs. Not sure if every digitizing software has the feature, but hatch sure does. I just wish they'd take the suggestion to make it per object instead of per design.
Great video as usual 👍 You could have put the all the pink designs before all the black one to save a bit of time 😋Can't wait for your next video 🙌 Take care !
Question: For the nose, I see that you duplicated the object, turning the duplicate into a satin outline. Why did you do this instead of just adding an outline to the original object?
I have a problem, when I want to export my design to .pes from the wilcom Hatch software, my brother pe-770 embroidery machine does not read it, can you help me please, I have not been able to embroider any design made with the wilcom Hatch software
@@EmbroideryLegacy Thank you for taking the time to help me, I have saved it in version 10, 5 and even 1 but none have worked, I will have to export it in all versions to see which one works.
It turned out very great! Thank you.
very informative tutorial. Thank you !
Depending on your design, a really good way to get rid of a lot of stitches and help mitigate thread breaks is to hit up [Design settings] >> [remove small stitches]. I usually try to sit at .7mm but if I can get away with 1mm, I will.
I've shaved off hundreds to thousands of stitches on a design to no ill effect. Though, it's always good to keep tabs on things like letters and points as it can mess with that. Sometimes you can only do a .5mm and that's okay.
What I really like about it is that it removes the really short stitches that often appear around the edges of designs.
Not sure if every digitizing software has the feature, but hatch sure does. I just wish they'd take the suggestion to make it per object instead of per design.
I enjoyed your video. Thank you for take the time to explain.
Well done John, was a great video. You did a great job.
Great video thanks a lot, wait next video more for fix design
Good video thanks
Great video as usual 👍 You could have put the all the pink designs before all the black one to save a bit of time 😋Can't wait for your next video 🙌 Take care !
That was a great video, lots of information and easily followed, thank you 😊
Question: For the nose, I see that you duplicated the object, turning the duplicate into a satin outline. Why did you do this instead of just adding an outline to the original object?
an object can only have one type. the fill is one type, the outline is another type
I have a problem, when I want to export my design to .pes from the wilcom Hatch software, my brother pe-770 embroidery machine does not read it, can you help me please, I have not been able to embroider any design made with the wilcom Hatch software
When saving to pes what version are you saving, it is defaulted to v10, try changing it to v6 and see if that helps.
@@EmbroideryLegacy Thank you for taking the time to help me, I have saved it in version 10, 5 and even 1 but none have worked, I will have to export it in all versions to see which one works.
@@DescubreHoy601 Hatch support will be able to assist you.