kudos on the piston swap trick. did that to one of my pro 15s and now it doesn't even go half way up, needs a full break in, who woulda thought? saved myself 50 dollars for a rebuild.
How did I miss this post!!!? I'm just sitting here replying to others and this one was just sitting down there patiently lol. And now you are trying to post that dog picture.... lmao. For those that don't know, come over to the forum (www.rc-help.com) to see the picture lmao. I'm not sure if it is the best "rebuild" video out there, but I definitely appreciate the compliment. If anyone learns from this, it was all worth it.
I really enjoy your Traxxas videos as I'm in the process of rebuilding a T-Maxx. It would help a lot of new comers to the hobby to explain to correct piston, sleeve to engine orientation
I just bought my new Traxxas Tmaxx 3.3 from Online. Broke in the engine and tuned it after 3 gallons ill check it as specified in manual. I hear these TRX 2.5 & 3.3 engines can last for over 8 gallons.
What was your process for cleaning the exterior of the engine, from the caked up dirt to the shine polish finish. I'm have issues getting off all the grime. Same question for the crack shaft? Thanks!
Hi Tony, I did manage to salvage 1 out of the 2 3.3's thanks to this video, Im having trouble getting the other piston-sleeve out. My Q; if the piston head is heavily carbonized is it Still usable?
Yes, you actually want that carbon on the piston. It helps seal the piston to the ring to fill in all of the small pores. As for getting the other one out, Heat the block with a hair dryer and use a piece of copper wire to put in a port between the sleeve and piston as you rotate the engine. You may have to put the flywheel back on if you took it off to get some leverage. Only when a sleeve is stuck will I suggest using copper, I usually always suggest a zip tie or cloth rag which you can try as well after heating. www.Rc-Help.com
@@RcHelpDotCom Ok,will do.but im not going to put anything harder than a zip tie in there.but us a hair dryer be hot enough to get the sleeve out? I was going to use a torch since i dont need the crankcase. Its been snapping off everything you recommended to use.
A hair dryer should get it pretty hot. Is the block broke or unusable in some way? If you can use it, I would try to save it. But you can use a torch, just don't over heat it. If it is snapping everything off, you may have to use some copper. The copper is softer than the aluminum piston and definitely softer than the brass sleeve so in MOST cases, it will be fine and may be your only option.
@@RcHelpDotCom What kind of copper wire? And how thick? Ill try the hair dryer 1st and move on. I already acquired 5 cases.. These will be my 1st 2 rebuilt motors I've done myself and you! huge help!
Oh, something around the 12AWG solid wire size should work. Make sure it is fresh virgin wire and not something that has been worked back and forth. When you bend copper back and forth, it will "work harden" and cause it to get very stiff and will eventually break. You want the copper to be nice and soft. You can bend it (once) to check it and as long as it bends easy, it should be good to go. Just mind how much force you are using. Sometimes, your only options are the bad options.... Like having to hammer out a crankshaft lol.
@@RcHelpDotCom thank you for the quick response and the great info on all your videos I was wondering bc I have a new 3.3 cooling head and thought maybe it would fit.
I was actually thinking about that backwards. The 3.3 head will not fit into the sleeve unfortunately. Now, if you can move the head button from one to another then it might work, but only if the bolt pattern is the same. I have not tried this so can't say for sure.
Quick question, do you need to put bearing oil on the bearings in the engine? Or will Wd-40 work? Does the nitro keep them lubricated? I have my engine apart now and wasn't sure. Thanks! Great content too!
If they are dry, I would put a little oil on them. The nitro fuel does have lubricants in them that oil the bearings, but that first start up, I would rather have a little excess oil on them just to be safe. www.Rc-Help.com
Hey Trenton, Thank you. As for a shoutout in the "next video"... Can't do that. I have two more episodes shot already that I need to edit. I'm trying to stay ahead of the game this time on this project. But who knows, Episode 13... May just have something you like if I can remember lol.
kudos on the piston swap trick. did that to one of my pro 15s and now it doesn't even go half way up, needs a full break in, who woulda thought? saved myself 50 dollars for a rebuild.
Great video Tony. One of, if not the best engine rebuild videos I have seen. Keep 'em comin'!!!
How did I miss this post!!!? I'm just sitting here replying to others and this one was just sitting down there patiently lol. And now you are trying to post that dog picture.... lmao. For those that don't know, come over to the forum (www.rc-help.com) to see the picture lmao.
I'm not sure if it is the best "rebuild" video out there, but I definitely appreciate the compliment. If anyone learns from this, it was all worth it.
Another good step by step video easy to follow and well explained.
Thank you kind sir!
I really enjoy your Traxxas videos as I'm in the process of rebuilding a T-Maxx. It would help a lot of new comers to the hobby to explain to correct piston, sleeve to engine orientation
I just bought my new Traxxas Tmaxx 3.3 from Online. Broke in the engine and tuned it after 3 gallons ill check it as specified in manual. I hear these TRX 2.5 & 3.3 engines can last for over 8 gallons.
Thanks Tony, Im still watching!
Awesome! Thank you!
What was your process for cleaning the exterior of the engine, from the caked up dirt to the shine polish finish. I'm have issues getting off all the grime. Same question for the crack shaft? Thanks!
Hi Tony,
I did manage to salvage 1 out of the 2 3.3's thanks to this video,
Im having trouble getting the other piston-sleeve out.
My Q; if the piston head is heavily carbonized is it
Still usable?
Yes, you actually want that carbon on the piston. It helps seal the piston to the ring to fill in all of the small pores. As for getting the other one out, Heat the block with a hair dryer and use a piece of copper wire to put in a port between the sleeve and piston as you rotate the engine. You may have to put the flywheel back on if you took it off to get some leverage. Only when a sleeve is stuck will I suggest using copper, I usually always suggest a zip tie or cloth rag which you can try as well after heating. www.Rc-Help.com
@@RcHelpDotCom
Ok,will do.but im not going to put anything harder than a zip tie in there.but us a hair dryer be hot enough to get the sleeve out?
I was going to use a torch since i dont need the crankcase.
Its been snapping off everything you recommended to use.
A hair dryer should get it pretty hot. Is the block broke or unusable in some way? If you can use it, I would try to save it. But you can use a torch, just don't over heat it. If it is snapping everything off, you may have to use some copper. The copper is softer than the aluminum piston and definitely softer than the brass sleeve so in MOST cases, it will be fine and may be your only option.
@@RcHelpDotCom
What kind of copper wire? And how thick?
Ill try the hair dryer 1st and move on.
I already acquired 5 cases..
These will be my 1st 2 rebuilt motors I've done myself and you!
huge help!
Oh, something around the 12AWG solid wire size should work. Make sure it is fresh virgin wire and not something that has been worked back and forth. When you bend copper back and forth, it will "work harden" and cause it to get very stiff and will eventually break. You want the copper to be nice and soft. You can bend it (once) to check it and as long as it bends easy, it should be good to go. Just mind how much force you are using.
Sometimes, your only options are the bad options.... Like having to hammer out a crankshaft lol.
Its all most ready🕺 Great on the details 🤟✌️👍
Why thank you kind sir! There is still a long way to go with this series, but it is definitely getting there.
Hi Tony I have a question for you will a TRX 3.3 Cooling head fit on a TRX 2.5 ?
I doubt it. The cylinder bore is larger on the 3.3 so the head button will not fit properly to provide proper compression. www.Rc-Help.com
@@RcHelpDotCom thank you for the quick response and the great info on all your videos I was wondering bc I have a new 3.3 cooling head and thought maybe it would fit.
I was actually thinking about that backwards. The 3.3 head will not fit into the sleeve unfortunately. Now, if you can move the head button from one to another then it might work, but only if the bolt pattern is the same. I have not tried this so can't say for sure.
@@RcHelpDotCom Makes me wonder now ?? ;)
Quick question, do you need to put bearing oil on the bearings in the engine? Or will Wd-40 work? Does the nitro keep them lubricated? I have my engine apart now and wasn't sure. Thanks! Great content too!
If they are dry, I would put a little oil on them. The nitro fuel does have lubricants in them that oil the bearings, but that first start up, I would rather have a little excess oil on them just to be safe. www.Rc-Help.com
I had to bang my crankshaft out too! Millimeter by millimeter.
Yea, not good when we have to do that. Hopefully yours came out as undamaged as mine did. www.Rc-Help.com
Heyyyy tony I’m still watching great job on the video brother would u care to give me a shout out in your next video lol it would make me fell cool
Hey Trenton, Thank you. As for a shoutout in the "next video"... Can't do that. I have two more episodes shot already that I need to edit. I'm trying to stay ahead of the game this time on this project. But who knows, Episode 13... May just have something you like if I can remember lol.