Mercedes W163 Replace Power Steering Hose Pressure Line, Fluid Flush & Bleed '02 - '05 ML350 ML500
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2024
- This video is a step-by-step DIY to replace the power steering pressure hose on the '02 - '05 ML Class (ML320, ML350, ML500, ML55). Also shown in the video is how to bleed the system after the repair and how to flush the power steering fluid.
Check the Pinned Comment or below for the Timestamps, Part Numbers, and other information.
Thanks for watching, and I hope the video helps. Good luck with your repair!
Timestamps, Part Numbers, and other Information:
00:20 Notes about using jackstands and ramps for this job
01:13 Empty the power steering fluid reservoir
01:29 Identify this leak and hose
Begin repair:
02:18 Remove the Banjo bolt at the steering rack (22mm)
03:48 Remove the hose bracket (10mm):
Tip: @
carl suiter noted in the Comments that you can reach the bracket fastener from the passenger side of the oil pan using a long (2 ft) extension with a wobble end. Thanks for the tip, Carl!
04:23 Remove the flare nut at the power steering pump (17mm)
05:30 Locate the o-ring on the pump side of the hose
06:18 Remove the hose
Replacement hose information:
07:14 New and old hoses: part number A163 460 4224
07:29 Inspect the new hose for the o-ring (part number is possibly CRP 0259977548 - not verified)
08:19 Part number for crush washers (A0076 0301 8101)
08:45 Transfer the hose bracket to the new hose
09:29 Notes about the new and old Banjo bolts and washers
Install the new hose:
11:05 Guide the new hose into place
11:53 Install two new crush washers and the Banjo bolt at the steering rack
13:02 Install the hose bracket
13:47 Connect the hose flare fitting to the power steering pump
15:57 Torque down the Banjo bolt (torque is 22 ft-lbs)
16:45 Torque down the flare fitting at the pump (33 ft-lbs)
Notes about Power Steering Fluid types:
17:47 Original fill PS Fluid (honey-colored): MB Spec 236.3 (ie, MB A000 989 8803)
18:44 Later PS Fluid (green-colored): MB Spec 345.0 (do not mix 345.0 with 236.3)
19:38 Notes for a PS fluid flush (buy 2L of fluid)
21:46 Tools for a flush (3/8" ID barb and hose)
Power Steering Fluid Flush:
22:29 Elevate the front wheels (ie, jackstands)
22:45 Front end lift-point and jackstands locations
23:03 Disconnect the power steering return hose (Philips hose clamp)
24:10 Install the flush line and sight hose
24:56 Refill the reservoir and start the flush
28:42 Remove the flush line and sight hose
29:41 Reconnect the return hose to the reservoir
Bleeding the Power Steering System:
29:50 Begin the bleeding procedure
31:46 Bleeding procedure summary
33:53 Final adjustments of the PS fluid level
35:24 Check for leaks
36:13 Recheck the fluid level after a couple days
I hope this video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
*Timestamps, Part Numbers, and other Information:*
00:20 Notes about using jackstands and ramps for this job
01:13 Empty the power steering fluid reservoir
01:29 Identify this leak and hose
*Begin repair:*
02:18 Remove the Banjo bolt at the steering rack (22mm)
03:48 Remove the hose bracket (10mm):
Tip: @
carl suiter noted in the Comments that you can reach the bracket fastener from the passenger side of the oil pan using a long (2 ft) extension with a wobble end. Thanks for the tip, Carl!
04:23 Remove the flare nut at the power steering pump (17mm)
05:30 Locate the o-ring on the pump side of the hose
06:18 Remove the hose
*Replacement hose information:*
07:14 New and old hoses: part number A163 460 4224
07:29 Inspect the new hose for the o-ring (part number is *possibly* CRP 0259977548 - not verified)
08:19 Part number for crush washers (A0076 0301 8101)
08:45 Transfer the hose bracket to the new hose
09:29 Notes about the new and old Banjo bolts and washers
*Install the new hose:*
11:05 Guide the new hose into place
11:53 Install two new crush washers and the Banjo bolt at the steering rack
13:02 Install the hose bracket
13:47 Connect the hose flare fitting to the power steering pump
15:57 Torque down the Banjo bolt (torque is 22 ft-lbs)
16:45 Torque down the flare fitting at the pump (33 ft-lbs)
*Notes about Power Steering Fluid types:*
17:47 Original fill PS Fluid (honey-colored): MB Spec 236.3 (ie, MB A000 989 8803)
18:44 Later PS Fluid (green-colored): MB Spec 345.0 (do not mix 345.0 with 236.3)
19:38 Notes for a PS fluid flush (buy 2L of fluid)
21:46 Tools for a flush (3/8" ID barb and hose)
*Power Steering Fluid Flush:*
22:29 Elevate the front wheels (ie, jackstands)
22:45 Front end lift-point and jackstands locations
23:03 Disconnect the power steering return hose (Philips hose clamp)
24:10 Install the flush line and sight hose
24:56 Refill the reservoir and start the flush
28:42 Remove the flush line and sight hose
29:41 Reconnect the return hose to the reservoir
*Bleeding the Power Steering System:*
29:50 Begin the bleeding procedure
31:46 Bleeding procedure summary
33:53 Final adjustments of the PS fluid level
35:24 Check for leaks
36:13 Recheck the fluid level after a couple days
I hope this video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
I wish you made videos for every ML issue, the most thorough videos I've seen. Awesome!!!!
Thanks for watching! : )
I agree. I own 2 ML320's currently, and I owned another ML320 years ago, three total to date. I've done many different repair and maintenance jobs over the last 10 years on these vehicles. You have done an incredible job demonstrating and detailing this work, well done! From Vancouver, Canada. @@L35inColorado
L35 Delivers some of the top DIY's videos on the web. Over the past 22 years, I've owned 5 -W163's (still own an ML500 and ML320) and have done most of own repairs and maintenance. Since I found his videos, he is the first I search to see if he has posted a video on the process. Even if I have done a procedure before, his are a great reminder of what not to forget and how to do it again. Here's what makes these videos better than the other ones that are out there:
1.) The videos are clear, lighting is great, images are stable and infocus. He keeps the video rolling during the hard parts so that you can see what is in the way, how to move it, what to disconnect, etc. He shows and tells at the same time and does not waste time with long introductions about what he is about to do, he gets down to it and explains as it is being done.
2.) He pauses the video at the important points, takes the time to add annotations to the screen shots that clearly pinpoints what to watch for, what bolts, what parts are needed or what you may want to replace while you are at a repair. What is going to be brittle and break, with tips on where to place catch basins, rags, etc. This is helpful to keep the mess to a minimum.
3.) Great attention spent on showing "how to" position a wrench or socket or extension, or where a hidden bolt is at. He covers in detail, how to position your tools, what to take off to get to the repair, size of wrench or socket, and shows the important details on o-rings, crush washers, where to look if you don't see them and what tools to use. This is what saves me time and completes the repair without leaks or rework because of a rubbing hose placed wrong.
4.) He does things by the book- which means he checks and shows you he has verified, part numbers, fluid specs, procedures, torques, where to find it and what to expect to pay. Many other repair videos wing it on torques, fluids, and safety procedures. This is what professional mechanics do.
Great work L35 in Colorado!! You set a standard that others can learn from!
One of the most thorough and nicely put-together automotive videos I have ever seen. This was a big help for me as I just changed all the hoses and pump on my 2004 ML 350. Thank you very much!
Wow, great job on your DIY -- thanks for watching! : )
Wonder what’s the symptoms of a failed power steering pump? Thanks
Couldn't agree more
TY I only had to bleed the steering, the 30x +- and the working the rough parts out was on point! My dad will be happy!
Great job on your DIY! Thanks for watching, and for adding your tips! : )
Thank you so much for putting this video out. I am going to take on this task, and found your video extremely valuable.
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : ) Good luck!
thanks for being so calm, relaxed, and organized in your delivery. Nice work!
Thanks for watching! : )
Love the content on the W163, very helpful. Please keep it coming!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Absolutely love how informative your videos are! You go in depth to the smallest details. I really appreciate your work.
Thanks for watching! : )
You absolutely the Best!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Best narration of an instructional vid on YT.
Btw you could make millions... you sound like MJ.
Haha - no one had ever told me that I sounded like MJ until I started doing these videos. So I always reply "I wish I could dance like MJ!" Perhaps my voice is a bit low for a woman, so it sounds like a high-pitched man's voice like MJ? I don't know - but thanks for watching and good luck and don't expect any singing or dancing on this channel : )
Hi, replaced the hose and now I've seen this video. Brilliant work that I should have seen first. Thanks anyway as I may now do a flush too!
Youre videos of the w163 are the best period specially the valve cover one just wow
Thank you - I appreciate that! And thanks for watching : )
Outstanding video I just replaced the rack, power steering pump, reservoir and both hoses on my ML320, That little bracket was the toughest part of the job, A 2 foot long wobble extension, coming from the passenger side of the pan took some of the pain away, but it was still difficult.
I love your videos they are so detailed and professionally filmed. A gold standard here on TH-cam ..... Bravo !
Wow, thanks for sharing that tip about the bracket -- that's a great idea! I'll add that to the Pinned Comments. That's a big job to replace the entire system like you did. Thanks for watching, and thanks for your comment : )
About to do this on my C320, wish me luck
@@BorisBidjanSaberi11 It's not a horrible job just time consuming. A crows foot wrenches and long extensions for the bracket will be your go to friend for this job.
Excellent detail in your repairs. Your delivery and the calm way you describe what you are doing makes your videos some of the best I've seen. Not only are they thorough but as well the video is excellent also. I was looking for a video on how to replace the reservoir O-ring and container , but learned how to do the flush and bleed as well. Thanks. 2004 ML350 198,000.
Thanks for watching! : )
Did the flush and bleed this past weekend and your methods worked like a charm. Thanks again.
The attention to detail is amazing I love it . when I do any work on my w163 ml 320 I'm going to reference you .
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
You are the best TH-cam mechanic woman to see in the world
Your video are very well done and all the info in it does save a lot of time .
Before looking under my car I thought I had to replace the complete steering rack and was not welling to do that big repairs but after watching your video I realize I have only the same problem as you describe in this video. So just there I save approximately a big thousand bock and fallowing all your instruction step by step I was able to do it easily and quickly. And to let you know you have a relaxing voice and its helpfully to ear all your well explained instructions. Thank you for this 1/2 hour well spend learning Mercedes ML500 2002 mechanics
Wow, that is great - nice job on your DIY! I'm so glad the video helped : ) Thanks for watching!
Thank You Thank You. I finally replaced the hose with your Awesome instructions. Your absolutely correct that bracket screw is a pain. I owe you a drink or something. You Rule. More parts to order and your videos to watch....❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
That's great - nice job on your DIY!! Thanks for watching : )
Best automotive video creator period! IMHO. We have a 2000 ml 430 so that may have influenced my opinion.
One of the most thorough videos Ive ever seen ! way to go! keep up the good work
Excellent and super thorough video! Thank you!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you again for another informative tutorial. Replaced the o ring at the ps reservoir and decided to do the flush. A little messy but worked like a charm. 159,000 miles and I don't think the ps oil had ever been changed. One last thought, take very seriously her proper level as shown around the 34:17 mark. I had over filled the reservoir and had leaking oil for a a few days until I figured out the excess ps fluid was pushing out around the cap. Would love to see an oil pan gasket video in the future. Excellent material.
Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for a thorough repair video!
Thanks for watching! : )
Another excellent video/job done. Thank you
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Good video. Ive got to take off the return power steering pipes. The blue washers or O rings if you want to call are leaking. Cant replace with black ones, as yes they may work to begin, but will weaken in no time causing leaking again. If you done i expect you are aware. The old ml's are far better than the new models. Ive had 6 ton behind one;Towed easy. Keep your good videos up. Showed and explained well talking at a speed people could watch and do the job at the sametime
Thanks for adding your tips -- yes, I agree the green Viton o-ring/seals/washers are better quality and last longer. Thanks for watching! : )
شكرا لهذا العمل
What a great video. Thanks for all that hard work recording. It's a lot of elbow grease!
Is it possible to just repair the hose at the crimp with high quality epoxy?
Thanks
Thank you! I haven't tried an repair option on that particular hose, but in the past I have used wraps like this in a pinch/when traveling to repair hose leaks (including for a leaky transmission cooler hose on an MB):
www.amazon.com/SEPTLS4421540599-Loctite-Insulating-Sealing-1540599/dp/B00H23RC3Q/
The hardest part of using tape like that is getting in there to apply it!
I hope that helps - please let us know if you're successful with a repair option. Thanks for watching! : )
Excellent video.
I think it's the washer on the reservoir leaking on the one I'm working on, but once that's done I'll check for leaks again. There's so much fluid coming out I can't pinpoint if there's more leaks in addition to whatever is leaking from under the reservoir.
Hi, not sure if you have time to reply to this but I have a similar leak. Same area but instead of leaking at the crimp it’s leaking from the connection of the high pressure hose to the pump. Should I replace the whole pump and line, or just the o rings?
Yes, you can just replace the o-ring at the pump pressure line if the line itself is not leaking. Have a very close look in that area, because the most common leak is actually just above that connection - it's a leak at the power steering reservior o-ring, or even the plastic reservoir itself. That leak is probably the most common, and it can be mistaken for a leak at the hose because it is nearby. It is common to just replace the entire reservoir when the o-ring is replaced, especially if the reservoir hasn't been replaced before because it will eventually crack (poor design by MB!). Here's a video which shows what I mean (there are other videos, too):
th-cam.com/video/tSC2wMSMLPA/w-d-xo.html
I hope that helps - good luck! : )
great video. Thank you.
Any difference in how the steering feels with the yellow fluid compared to the green fluid? Is the performance different?
I don't know, and I'm not aware of any differences; the original honey/yellow fluid seems to be just fine. Just don't mix them! : ) Thanks for watching!
@L35 in Colorado
My fluid is red
@@dcomputers Does it smell like ATF? Many people put ATF in the power steering system because most other manufacturers (Toyota, Honda, GM, etc) use ATF instead of "power steering fluid". For example, Valvoline MaxLife ATF is very red and very popular for power steering systems (I like it for Toyotas).
But the W163 doesn't use ATF - MB says it requires "power steering fluid", like those mentioned in the video. If you're having some issues, then it might be a good idea to just complete a flush. It will be easy to determine when you've removed all the old fluid since it is a different color than what you'd refill with.
There might be some red ATF's that are compatible with the MB spec mentioned in the video - I just don't know! But red fluid makes me suspect that it's ATF. I hope that helps! : )
@L35 in Colorado
Yea its synthetic atf . Would that cause issue in a ml ? The thing is they told me it meets 236.3 and that 236.3 is a dexron2
@@dcomputers Do you happen to know what brand? I don't know all the in-and-outs of the spec, just what I included in the video when I did the research at the time. It was my understanding at the time that there is some backward compatibility with 236.3 and some certain fluids, but not necessarily the reverse (meaning that some fluids that 236.3 can replace are not themselves suitable to replace 236.3 in 236.3 spec'd applications).
Here's a list of what MB considers 236.3:
operatingfluids.mercedes-benz.com/sheet/236.3/en
Fantastic great job
Do you have to take out the wheel ? What’s the best way to take out the rear bolt ?
Great video as always! What kind of ramps do you have? My rhino ramps have the correct weight capacity but have a max tire width of only 9.5”
I have the older gray Rhino ramps - I think 11909 is the part, but I'm not sure.
I have a 2004 ML350 in the rear passenger side I noticed a hose and a connector hanging. Do you know what connects there.
Hi - fantastic video! I have a 2013 R350, the service manual refers to depressurizing the power steering system with the pressure reduction screw, but I can't find the procedure for that - if I just leave the car overnight without running it will the system be depressurized? Thanks.
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I am not at all familar with the 2013 R350. If you're still working on this, I recommend starting a thread or searching the forums at www.benzworld.org -- there are MB techs there who can help you! Good luck : )
Good job
Thanks a lot for doing this. This is the most helpful video I can find that is close to the setup on my ML430 with the exception that my line ends in a 17mm flare nut rather than a Banjo bolt at the rack and pinion end. However, I have made progress on my project through to the 7:03 mark on this video (EG: both ends detached, and the bracket with the 10mm bolt off), but I cannot budge the line in either direction in order to get it out. That also does not bode well for fishing the new one back the other way either. As the car is on ramps with jackstands just for safety, I'm wondering if perhaps the suspension is clamping the line? I've tried to get some lateral motion by pushing and pulling from both ends, and it will not budge at all.
I'm sorry that I missed your comment - if you're still working on this, I would double-check that there's not some other clamp(s) holding the line. I can see what you mean from this pic that the part is different for the ML430 & early ML320:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-power-steering-pressure-hose-ml320-ml430-1634602224a#fitment
I pulled up the WIS for a '99 ML430, and there is a note about extra clamps holding the *low* pressure line, but unfortunately there are no notes at all about the *high* pressure line removal procedure that you're working on. But the observation that the return line has some extra hangers (compared to the later W163's) makes me think that perhaps your high pressure line does, too. I don't think your ramp/lift setup is affecting the removal - it sounds like there is another hidden hanger holding the hose in place.
All I can see in the WIS for the high-pressure hose for your application is a note for the torque on the flare connection at the steering rack (in the rack removal section). Here it is:
"Screw joint, high-pressure expansion hose connection fitting to rack and pinion steering, 15 Nm" (That is a low torque: 15 Nm = 11 ft-lbs).
Please update with what you discover, and good luck!
@@L35inColorado That's great, thanks for looking into this! In fact, as it has now warmed here to 0C, I am just getting dressed to go lay in the ice, snow and spilled fluid in my driveway under the vehicle and see what I can find, so your timing is spot on. As I'm now 73 and never thought I'd still have to do this, I have told my spouse there are 3 things you can count on in life, "death, taxes, and fixing you vehicle". The thought that here is another clamp that I cannot see is rather a depressing thought. A mechanic friend of mine checked his Alldata and Mitchel databases and then made the comment, "they must think its less than impossible , this is what alldata has - mitchell has nothing". Indeed the Alldata info was not very helpful either. Yes both of the 17mm flair nuts broke free with very little force required. I just noticed that the return line that I replaced in 2018 also goes into the steering gear right beside the high pressure hose (I also bought this same line by mistake a couple of weeks ago before I realized I had the wrong one, and I'm just going to keep it as I had it shipped from ROck Auto to Canada.) BTW, this is a 1999 ML430 left hand drive that I bought from Japan for $10,000 about 2015 that had 48,000 km on it, original headlights (which Japan law requires to be changed and they never were) and tires, and it turned out to have been purchased by someone in Japan from a dealer in Montreal, Canada. It is already showing rust on the driver's door and has less then 100,000 km on it, which is disappointing. Given the amount of work I have had to do on it and in spite of the the low mileage, I wish I had never bought it! Update edit: I was able to find another clamp which looks to be more inaccessible than the first, so you're right. In spite of safety glasses, after getting all the gunk out of my eyes, I plan to move the car out of the spilled fluid, jack it higher, and then make another attempt at getting this one off. THanks for pointing me in the right direction!
@@MountainParameters Wow, you're a real trooper out there in the cold! I'll say a prayer for your successful repair : ) Good luck!
A couple of hours later and more sludge in my eyes in spite of wearing curved eye protection, and a few trips to my neighbors to borrow some crowfoot wrenches, and, after trying unsuccessfully to get another bracket undone, I finally discover that the line I disconnected from the PS Pump at the front of the vehicle was not the same line as I disconnected from the steering gear at the other end. However, all is not lost because your need to disconnect the 17mm nut from the steering gear before you can access the 14mm one for the line I needed to remove in the first place. Now the line is finally out, and the O-ring is still stubbornly seated in the steering gear housing and a right angle pick does not seem to want to remove it, I am so frustrated with this project I'm tempted to leave it in there and just take the other one off the new line instead. Also due to the frustration factor, I might be tempted to not do up the bracket until next summer when conditions can have me at least lying on a dry driveway rather than ice, snow, and spilled fluid! Anyway, even though at this point I am still only half way there, I hope that by confessing and documenting my idiotic mistakes, some time in the future they may help some other poor ML430 owner that is facing the same problem. I once worked with someone about 30 years ago who told me her father got so mad at a horse he drove to the neighbors, borrowed a firearm, and came back and shot the horse. Although I'd happily do the same with this ML430, I doubt it would do me much good, and probably not make me feel any better. So I'm drinking a strong IPA instead...
@@MountainParameters Oh wow, that ML sure is trying your patience, but you still have your sense of humor, so that's great!
About the o-ring: be sure to really carefully double check the fitting of the line that you removed in case the o-ring is actually still on there - as shown in the video, I thought mine was stuck in the power steering reservoir, too, but it turned out that the o-ring was on the hose fitting after all, but I couldn't see it because of the color. So use a pick to carefully check the hose fitting, to be sure.
If the o-ring really is stuck in the reservoir, you can try removing the o-ring with a dental pick, or making a little hook from a wire clothes hanger or smaller wire. Unfortunately, there is a pretty high chance that it will leak if you try reassembling it with the old o-ring in there, because that is the high pressure line and so fluid will tend to find a path out if the fitting is not sealed well.
You can also remove the entire reservoir so that you can get a better look at it: there are some videos on youtube that show how. If you do that, be sure to replace the larger o-ring (part # 0004661880) that seals the reservoir to the pump.
Hopefully you'll be able to get the hose fitting o-ring out without doing that, but just in case, here are those parts, if you decide to replace them:
Just the power steering reservoir o-ring to the pump:
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-power-steering-reservoir-gasket-0004661880#fitment
Power steering reservoir (includes the above o-ring):
www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-power-steering-reservoir-0004600183
(Double check all those parts)
Hang in there - you'll get this done! : ) But take today off and relax, if you can!
it is great work think you
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
What is the part number for this house??
I need to replace mine
Appreciate it🙏. Have a 2000 the steering is stiff. Fluid is filled but looks dark. Seems to be wetness underneath. Any ideas how to troubleshoot? Thanks.
Sure - as mentioned in the video, the o-ring on the steering power fluid reservoir is a common leak. That leak can get extreme, where fluid is pushed out every time you turn the wheel, so if you see a leak there, you need to replace the o-ring. But if you don't see any leak and the fluid is dark & steering stiff, then you might just start with a fluid flush. Be sure to use the correct fluid (it is discussed in the video) and remove all the old fluid via the method shown in the video. It will be apparent when the old fluid is out, because you'll see clean new fluid. Then be sure to bleed the system well. I hope that helps - good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado Appreciate it. That's a good start.
Thinking about it the fluids may be mixed. Brown and green. Doing a flush would the old fluid still be in the lines?
@@waynegomillion4976 No, if you complete a full flush like the method shown in the video, you will remove all the old fluid by displacing it with the new fluid.
@@L35inColorado Hi ok that makes sense just checking. I appreciate your help.
could you please do a video for vacuum break booster repair or change for w 163 ?
I haven't had to do that job yet, but if it comes up, I will record it. Thanks for watching!
@@L35inColorado Big respect to you! You do really great !
Would like to know how to put serpentine belt on a 2006 cuz 500 no matter which way I do it there's a lot of slack
Nice job on this, really! One word of caution. Take off the bracelet, it can cause serious injury. I've seen it catch on voltage and burn a permanent ring in someone's wrist. But well done! To Hanks!
Yes, thank you -- others have mentioned this, and I am aware of the risk, but I wear it because it is a medical bracelet that has important treatment info for emergency medical people in case I need it. Thanks for watching! : )
I love your channel but I can't hear what you are saying.
Looks like someone forgot to turn the volume up!!!!
Great video like always!!!! Thank you!!!!
Thanks - yes, this is an older video, and I have since remedied the low audio. Thanks for watching, and big thanks for being a subscriber! : )
You are awesome. What camera do you use to get in the narrow places? Are you a profession mechanic, you are so good at what you do. Thank you for the detail videos.
Thanks! I used an old iPhone 6 for all the recording of this video, so it fits into some very tight spaces. I am not a professional mechanic - I have some technical background, but am just another DIY'er! Thanks for watching : )
Great video and explanation. Where did you order the hoses? I have to do this after clearing the drains
I'm sorry I missed your comment - I got the hoses at AutoHaus AZ:
www.autohausaz.com/pn/1634604224
I hope that helps! Thanks for watching : )
I accidently mixed two different types of power steering fluids what should i do?
You can just flush it out, as shown in the video -- determine the type you need, and buy 2 liters of that type. Then follow the flush procedure until you see nice, clean, new fluid coming through. I hope that helps!
@@L35inColorado thanks you are awesome. Also one more question, I have a leak where the pump hose connects to the reservoir but it seems to be leaking behind the bolt that pump line connects too… it’s weird
@@jaykeen7163 There is an o-ring on the reservoir which often causes a leak -- the fix is very easy, and is covered in the video below. That may be your problem -- good luck! : )
th-cam.com/video/tSC2wMSMLPA/w-d-xo.html
@@L35inColorado there’s a connection from the side of reservoir with a hose going down to the pump. The leak is coming from where it connects to the reservoir. It’s coming from behind the second bolt that the hose connects to.
Ya ur the best ✌️☺️❤️
Hi, I have a mercedes Ml270 W163 disel 2001.
I need to replace high pressure power steering line. I was wondering if anyone can help me with the parts to get.. Such as the flare nuts, O rings, and correct fitting new pipe.. Thanks
christen fix?
I have a 2000 E320 4Matic. I don't see the procedure being any different than an ML. I was going to send it off for a mechanic to do but watching this tells me the bleed sequence is too involved and they probably won't invest the time into it. Better to DIY.
where was it leaking on your line,
On this ML, the pressure hose appeared to be leaking at the crimp nearest the banjo bolt end -- you can see it at about the 09:18 mark:
th-cam.com/video/UYxRRcNRIwI/w-d-xo.html
If you have a power steering leak and you can't find the leak on the pressure hose, then check the return hose from the radiator to the reservoir, because that also often leaks. That hose just has hose clamps on the end, and sometimes you can stop the leak by tightening the hose clamps.
The other common leak on these ML's is an o-ring on the power steering reservoir.
I hope that helps - Good luck!
@@L35inColorado Hi, I have replace the p/s pump and also replace the reservoir and o ring but some how it still leaking,
could it leak from the p/s pump to the rack,
@@vid8306 Yes, that would be the pressure hose, shown in the video. Here's a diagram which shows the three hoses in the system:
www.benzworld.org/threads/2001-ml430-power-steering-major-leak.1621718/#lg=thread-1621718&slide=0
Referencing that diagram, the hose that connects the p/s pump to the rack is the pressure hose shown in the video, which is marked "100" in the diagram. Fluid moves from the p/s pump to the rack through that pressure hose (100).
Then, fluid leaves the rack through another hose (labeled "123" in the diagram) which connects the rack to the radiator (the lower connection on the radiator).
Fluid is then cooled in an isolated part of the radiator. Fluid then returns to the reservoir through a short hose (labeled "220" in the diagram).
The pump then pulls the fluid directly from the reservoir and pushes it back to the pressure hose (100).
If you have checked all these hoses and connections and still find that you have a leak, it is possible that there is a leak in the small part of the radiator which cools the p/s fluid. In that case, though, you would find coolant mixed in the with p/s fluid, or p/s fluid mixed in with the coolant. This fix for that case is a new radiator.
Can you see fluid leaking, or is it a leak that you notice only because the level in the reservoir is low?
If you can't see any leaks but notice the level in the reservoir is low, it is possible that you might still have air in the system, and so you might try a good bleed, since you replaced some components already.
I hope that helps!
@@L35inColorado there two lines that connect to the radiator that one from the reservoir and the other is from the rack, base on the diagram, the rack connects to the pump, when the ml is warm i can still smell power steering fluid even after replacing the parts that I have described, also I have replaced the radiator.
hey can you watch my video i made a brief video demonstrating the profuse leak from the power steering pump /ABC pulsation dampener
however it might as well be the green O RING i have no idea how to change it ? any clue?
Actually the majority of liquid i use in my w163 (oil,power steering etc.) are Liqui Moly brand.
I've heard good things about LiquiMoly fluids. Has the power steering fluid met your expectations on your ML?
@@L35inColorado Good Day. Happy Mothers Day just in case.I did not use it in my w163 but in 320 i had before.no complains.Normally if i buy a used vehicle first thing exchange all the fluids.Good experience with Liqui Moly brand.Expensive but do the job.