Mercedes W163 Replace Alternator, Voltage Regulator, Repair Wire Connector, '98 - '05 ML350 ML500
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 เม.ย. 2021
- This video is step-by-step DIY to remove and replace the alternator, and also the voltage regulator. Also shown is a repair to the voltage regulator connector.
Check the Pinned Comment or below for the Timestamps, part numbers, and other info.
I hope the video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Timestamps and part numbers:
00:21 Diagnostics
Remove the Alternator:
01:21 Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery
02:15 Remove the air box
04:51 Remove the shield plate (E8)
05:10 Identify the alternator type (Bosch or Valeo)
05:30 Disconnect the B+ terminal (12mm or 13mm)
05:53 Remove belt from alternator pulley (17mm)
08:04 Alternator pulley, bearings inspection
08:29 Remove two alternator bolts (E14)
10:16 Pry the alternator from the bracket
12:52 Disconnect the voltage regulator electrical
14:35 Remove the alternator from the engine bay
Replacement alternator part numbers (verify fitment for your model and year):
For ML320, ML350 (120 Amp): Bosch AL0787X; Valeo 0111549102.
For ML500 (150 Amp): Bosch AL0819X.
On the bench:
15:15 Alternator bearing inspection
15:52 Remove the voltage regulator
18:17 Voltage regulator inspection; voltage regulator for Bosch alternators: Bosch F00M144136 (MB A003 154 9706).
19:22 Inspection of brushes on Voltage regulator
20:41 Clean the voltage regulator contacts (if reusing your voltage regulator)
21:32 Reinstall the voltage regulator (Screws: 20 inch-lbs; nut on the long stud: 22 ft-lbs; nut on short stud: 9 ft-lbs)
Repair the voltage regulator wire:
24:28 Repair the wire for the voltage regulator: connector part # MB 168 545 2928.
25:08 Remove the wire end from the connector
28:04 Install wire end to the connector
30:02 Types of heat shrink for a wire repair
31:18 How to use heat shrink for a wire repair
33:41 Repairing the voltage regulator wire on this ML
36:43 Reinstall the voltage regulator connector on the vehicle
Install the Alternator:
37:47 Adjust the alternator bracket bushing, if needed
38:40 Alternator hose bracket orientation
39:20 Connect the voltage regulator electrical
39:47 Install the alternator to the bracket
40:17 Install the alternator bolts (E14, torque to 31 ft-lbs)
42:36 Connect two cables to the alternator B+ post (torque to 160 inch-lbs)
43:22 Conncet the hose bracket
44:11 Reinstall the belt (17mm)
46:32 Belt routing guide
48:20 Install the heat shield (E8)
48:32 Install the airbox
52:22 Reconnect the battery
52:42 Start and test
I hope this video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair! - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Timestamps and part numbers:
00:21 Diagnostics
*Remove the Alternator:*
01:21 Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery
02:15 Remove the air box
04:51 Remove the shield plate (E8)
05:10 Identify the alternator type (Bosch or Valeo)
05:30 Disconnect the B+ terminal (12mm or 13mm)
05:53 Remove belt from alternator pulley (17mm)
08:04 Alternator pulley, bearings inspection
08:29 Remove two alternator bolts (E14)
10:16 Pry the alternator from the bracket
12:52 Disconnect the voltage regulator electrical
14:35 Remove the alternator from the engine bay
*Replacement alternator part numbers (verify fitment for your model and year):*
For ML320, ML350 (120 Amp): Bosch AL0787X; Valeo 0111549102.
For ML500 (150 Amp): Bosch AL0819X.
*On the bench:*
15:15 Alternator bearing inspection
15:52 Remove the voltage regulator
18:17 Voltage regulator inspection; voltage regulator for Bosch alternators: Bosch F00M144136 (MB A003 154 9706).
19:22 Inspection of brushes on Voltage regulator
20:41 Clean the voltage regulator contacts (if reusing your voltage regulator)
21:32 Reinstall the voltage regulator (Screws: 20 inch-lbs; nut on the long stud: 22 ft-lbs; nut on short stud: 9 ft-lbs)
*Repair the voltage regulator wire:*
24:28 Repair the wire for the voltage regulator: connector part # MB 168 545 2928.
25:08 Remove the wire end from the connector
28:04 Install wire end to the connector
30:02 Types of heat shrink for a wire repair
31:18 How to use heat shrink for a wire repair
33:41 Repairing the voltage regulator wire on this ML
36:43 Reinstall the voltage regulator connector on the vehicle
*Install the Alternator:*
37:47 Adjust the alternator bracket bushing, if needed
38:40 Alternator hose bracket orientation
39:20 Connect the voltage regulator electrical
39:47 Install the alternator to the bracket
40:17 Install the alternator bolts (E14, torque to 31 ft-lbs)
42:36 Connect two cables to the alternator B+ post (torque to 160 inch-lbs)
43:22 Conncet the hose bracket
44:11 Reinstall the belt (17mm)
46:32 Belt routing guide
48:20 Install the heat shield (E8)
48:32 Install the airbox
52:22 Reconnect the battery
52:42 Start and test
I hope this video is helpful. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
If there were a Oscar giving to the tutorials, you would have been the one getting it for Best explanation, Best camera and best audio, in my opinion.
I have a 1998 E320 with 170,000 miles and I have been able to fix so many thing on it by watching your videos,
Thank you Thank you Thank you
Masoud
Wow, that's great - nice work on your DIY's and keeping your E320 up! Thanks for your comment, and thanks for watching : )
Thanks for making it possible for my broke ass to own a w163. Your a legand to me. ❤❤❤
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
What an excellent DIY video!! Mahalo from a maui home mechanic!!!🤙🏽🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Your videos are awesome!!! Learning so much about my ml. Thanks again!
Thank you, I really appreciate that! Thanks for watching : )
Super good video with Incredible attention to detail like always! Thank you!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
i happened to pass this video in the autoplay section of youtube, and omg, you have such detailed videos , i have an issue on my w220 , and aside from the airbox, it looks identical. my benz sits at 13.1-13.2 and drops to 11.8 when i roll the windows down. i tried to get to the VR , but every video i see has a completely different alternator backing, but yours is just like mine, i feel much more confident in trying this the way you did it now! and i watched this video in its absolute entirety . you got a subscribe from me!
I'm sorry I missed your comment - please update us if the regulator repair solves your problem! Thanks for watching, and good luck! : )
I followed your parasitic battery drain video and found my alternator was bad, then I came here. I just finished taking it off the new on comes tomorrow. Thank you so much for doing what you do! You are the best on TH-cam thorough and my goto. 🙏🏾
Wow, great job on your DIY -- well done! Thanks for watching : )
Awesome detail for repair. Amazing help ..Thank you sooooooooo much!!
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
BEST video on this! 🎉
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so very much for your detailed video. I just finished :) I love how you list all the torque values! I always get lambasted when I asked about torque ranges... Like I'm not supposed to use a torque wrench or something. Lol. Anyway thank you so very much, it really helped a lot!!
Haha, I agree - I love torque values, too! I will always include any torque value that I can find, especially on these MB's (which often use alloys, and not just cast iron or steel). Thanks for watching! : )
I have a 2002 ML500 with Bosch alternator 0123520012, and the voltage regulator is BOSCH 1197311213. Not sure why my alternator is different. Anyway, I followed you video, and was able to find that the voltage regulator had one brush not touching, so I ordered an new voltage regulator. Thanks.
Wow, that's a great DIY report -- nice job troubleshooting! Thanks for watching : )
Fantastic , thank you 🙂👍👍 your so calm !! I would have Hulked out at least 3 times doing that 🤣🤣🤣
What an edit!!Thanks!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
great instructions , thank you for much detail.. iam ready to check mine..
Thanks for watching! : )
Love your videos
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
@@L35inColorado any new videos coming soon?
Very thorough video! Lots of great information.
Thank you! Thanks for watching : )
great video!! i have 1999 ml320 250,000 miles ..1988 420sel 200,00 miles and try to do my own work
Thank you , you were great . Will , Mechanical Contractor in Tucson .
Thank you, and thanks for watching! : )
Awesome video as always. Thank you. I need to do this soon. I ordered an alternator from eBay, but it might be the cable broken like yours.
Yes, be sure to check that wire connector! The alternator shown in this video did eventually fail a little more than a year after I posted this video (the failure was the bearings). I replaced it earlier this summer, but the connector repair was still good, though!
Good luck, and thanks for watching : )
Thank you! My alternator went out a week ago and I replaced it with a duralast one from autozone, and a few days later it started giving me some flashing lights in the interior and gauge cluster. I suspect that it is the voltage regulator due to forums, so I will be replacing it if the problem re-occurs.
Ah man, that's crazy -- yes, I think these re-mans come with kinda cheap voltage regulators (at least this one in the video did, and it checks out as a Carquest/Advance Auto reman). So yes, it might be the voltage regulator, but also check the connector wiring: apparently it is fairly common for the wiring to get damaged. While researching, I saw that youtubers fupabox and also World Mechanics' had issues with the voltage regulator connectors on at least two ML's, so this is an issue that we need to watch for! Good luck!
the same set up for my old 300sd voltage regulator .and with a right angled Phillips while laying on my back, found out the alternator doesn't have to be removed
Great work, and thanks for sharing your tips!
L35 - love your vids. Please do one on r&r motor mounts on 96-2000 RAV4 soon.😁👍❤
If I ever do that job, I will certainly record it! : ) Thanks for watching!
thx
Thank you for doing these vids.I love my 2002 ML320 and maintain regularly. I can't find the box that houses the 150 amp fuse.Done everything but check that fuse. I took up carpet on pass.side to the hump. Don't see it. Could it be on the left side? Done all in video it needed,seems okay and light comes back not charging. That's why I think it's that fuse. Any thoughts? BTW it's the same color and make as yours.
Hi and Thank you! I changed my alternator on my 2001 ML320. After changing it, I had to jump the vehicle. It started right away. I was able to drive around, do some errands, no issues. The next morning, the car was totally dead. I had the battery and the new alternator tested and they both tested fine. Again the next morning, it was totally dead. After jumping the car works fine. It will die after a long period of about 5 hours. What did I too wrong? Any thoughts or suggestions will be appreciated.
Ah man, I'm sorry that's happening! Five hours is a very short time to drain a battery and would indicate that either the battery isn't being properly charged by the alternator when the engine is running, or there is a huge parasitic drain that is draining the battery while the engine is off but some electrical component stays on (sometimes on ML's the radio/amplifier circuits will do this). Check out this video for how to detect a parasitic leak on your ML:
th-cam.com/video/FgG1WjXLJOs/w-d-xo.html
If you're not getting a parasitic leak, then I would re-assess the alternator "passing" the test and test the alternator diodes independent, if you can, and all the wiring to/from the battery/alternator. I hope that helps!
@@L35inColorado Hi and thank you again for the helpful videos. You are great! I'll pick up a multi meter tomorrow and do some testing. My SRS light has been on for a while. Where in Colorado are you?
When the charge volts drop below 14 volts the battery will not ever be fully recharged which means reduced battery life. I like your work
Great point! Thanks for your comment and for watching : )
Hi,
after changing the alternator. If I reapplied the belt incorrectly, would that affect the battery from turning over?
No, the belt wouldn't cause that -- if you mean "turning over" as in the engine cranking, the engine will crank even without the belt on (though you don't want to run it like, especially a Mercedes because of the computer systems which are expecting regulated power from the alternator, but also because without a belt the water pump isn't running).
If you're not even getting the engine to crank, then I would check your battery connections and ground, and the charge on the battery itself: these engines often will not crank when the battery is weak -- even if it's just a little bit weak (like 12V instead of 12.5V or more).
The role of the battery in starting the engine is to power the starter motor. The starter motor uses electricity from the battery to turn the flywheel, which then turns the crankshaft to get the pistons moving to start compression for combustion once spark, fuel, and air enter the combustion chamber. Once combustion starts, compression will turn the crankshaft and the starter motor will not be involved anymore. This all happens in just a few seconds. The belt is the connection which allows the turning crankshaft pulley to also turn the alternator pulley, and since the alternator is also a generator, it converts that pulley rotation into electricity. The alternator electricity then charges the battery and also produces the electricity to run the circuit while the engine is running.
If you accidentally put the belt on incorrectly, I would remove it and check the pulleys -- but if it wouldn't even start with the belt on incorrectly, it is unlikely that it was caused by the belt itself. But check the pulleys anyway.
If you're having starting issues after replacing the alternator, make sure that you put the alternator bolts back in place. If those bolts are not in place, the belt will be lose and will not turn the alternator, and if the alternator is not turning after the starter motor disengages, there will be no spark and the engine will cut out quickly.
I'd check the battery strength and connections (make sure you have positive to positive and negative to negative), the grounds, and the electrical connectors to/from the alternator. Then re-install the belt correctly and try again. Good luck!
Hey I need your help, you know that peice that's called the voltage regulator? Mine did the same thing and it snapped. I need to know where to find that assembly of wiring and regulator for this exact car. 2003 same exact car
The part numbers are shown in the video, and also listed in the Pinned Comment: you can order them from MB (or other vendors), or you can usually find the electrical connectors at the junkyard (as I did in the video). I hope that helps!