Thanks for this latest, interesting video. The Harley is certainly beefy enough to withstand 'encouragement' isn't it. It's almost an agricultural machine, if you see what I mean, and is all the better for it. Good luck with the puller. Your tireless efforts are motivational and I always look forward to your next episode. Best of luck!
Many Harley owners lovingly call them “tractors”… they just keep running and running… when you take one apart, you will be amazed and wonder how it even ran!!!
Far harder to dismantle things than reassemble I've always found, and it doesn't matter how many tools you have, you are always lacking something. I've bought loads of them that I've only used once. Where there's a will there's always more expense... Keep smiling, Mark.
Those holes were drilled and tapped by the factory that is standard for Harley Davidson. I believe I used a standard steering wheel puller to get that fly wheel off, there are powerful magnets in there that make it very difficult to remove and to put back on without taking your fingers off.
Hi Tommy, what threw me a bit was when I went looking for reasons the rotor would not budge. Looking online, people had rotors with my type of holes, some with 2 untapped holes further out and some with none at all. I have now downloaded a genuine factory manual and it shows my set up. Those magnets have some pull !
Talk about a funny bone buster when pulling on the stator or in my case falling flat on my backside when it lets go. Hope you find a solution in a fairly quick manner if not will be waiting for the continuation of this project. Thank You for sharing. Welcome Back Home, I Think.
I would like to say I am glad to be back Max, but it is freezing cold and the Harley is being a pain ! I will heed your words about the rotor letting go suddenly because it does seem pretty tight. All part of the fun I suppose.
You are correct: my '81 flh, ate a primary tensioner nylon rubbing block on a trip...the return line blocked up with nylon bits and the primary started to collect oil. The clutch started slipping. I pulled into a kmart parking lot. found a plastic soda bottle in a dumpster, drained the primary. Dumped the oil back in the oil tank; shot the clutch plate with brake cleaner through the derby plate. snugged up what was left of the rubbing block and continued on.
Hi James, and hello Iceland! It is quite odd that parts are not sold by the number needed for the job in hand but it does seem common with some Harley parts. At least they are not too expensive for the older bikes. Thanks for watching !
Hey buddy it’s probably the magnet holding it on so be careful hitting it have a homemade pullers here and I have to say it looks stand with the three holes … is it charging? You are doing great by the way and thanks for the mention… and one bit of advice for this week check the treads on the engine case they shouldn’t be lose like that …. And make sure when your reassembling that you have the same size engine o ring because the is thicker and thinner ones and the thicker one WILL crack the inner primary ..or worse the engine o ring lip …. And lastly is you loosen the gear box you will have to loosen the engine and realign them and that’s a pain in the arse as well as you can crack the same lip off the engine case as the inner primary so my advice is don’t loosen either if the primary is straight Plenty of sealant …..
I made sure that the gearbox was tight before I started stripping down because I did not want anything moving about. The O ring is in good nick so I won't be replacing it. I have not checked the threads yet but I will before it goes back together. I have got puller now, it is in the next video and it worked a treat. Once again Micheal, thank you for all your help !
Just went back on your videos … and yes bloody motorcycle…. Right as regards the oil pump to remove it you’re talking about removing the pushrods, timing, cam, a finicky c clip..oil pump …. And you may not fix it (there’s away of using fine grinding paste and an old pushrod) … I have had the same problem and even replaced the pump … and the new pump is now doing the same thing …. I now live with a coke can on the hose an live with it…
@@oldnutsgarage try a new spring and ball … I remember a guy had a evo with the same problem and he routed the beater to a catch can by the chain and and was using the oil for oiling it not sure how … but I suppose it depends on the amount I have noticed that mine did more before it needed a service mind you I use mine in the summer … dare I suggest using straight 50 I know some of your subscribers love to debate about oil but I agree with you …
A new ball and spring sound like the cheapest starting point and `I was thinking of trying straight 50 next oil change, so I think I will follow your advice and start off with those.
Thanks for this latest, interesting video. The Harley is certainly beefy enough to withstand 'encouragement' isn't it. It's almost an agricultural machine, if you see what I mean, and is all the better for it. Good luck with the puller. Your tireless efforts are motivational and I always look forward to your next episode. Best of luck!
Thanks Keith. The Harley is definitely agricultural, good job I have a large selection of hammers !
Many Harley owners lovingly call them “tractors”… they just keep running and running… when you take one apart, you will be amazed and wonder how it even ran!!!
Far harder to dismantle things than reassemble I've always found, and it doesn't matter how many tools you have, you are always lacking something. I've bought loads of them that I've only used once. Where there's a will there's always more expense... Keep smiling, Mark.
Ha ha, I love that " where there is a will there's always more expense " I should have that stencilled on the garage wall Bill !
Those holes were drilled and tapped by the factory that is standard for Harley Davidson.
I believe I used a standard steering wheel puller to get that fly wheel off, there are powerful magnets in there that make it very difficult to remove and to put back on without taking your fingers off.
Hi Tommy, what threw me a bit was when I went looking for reasons the rotor would not budge. Looking online, people had rotors with my type of holes, some with 2 untapped holes further out and some with none at all. I have now downloaded a genuine factory manual and it shows my set up. Those magnets have some pull !
Talk about a funny bone buster when pulling on the stator or in my case falling flat on my backside when it lets go. Hope you find a solution in a fairly quick manner if not will be waiting for the continuation of this project. Thank You for sharing. Welcome Back Home, I Think.
I would like to say I am glad to be back Max, but it is freezing cold and the Harley is being a pain ! I will heed your words about the rotor letting go suddenly because it does seem pretty tight. All part of the fun I suppose.
Got to a farm machinery supplier for UN fasteners mate. In Australia we have Agricultural and Growers services.
You are correct: my '81 flh, ate a primary tensioner nylon rubbing block on a trip...the return line blocked up with nylon bits and the primary started to collect oil. The clutch started slipping. I pulled into a kmart parking lot. found a plastic soda bottle in a dumpster, drained the primary. Dumped the oil back in the oil tank; shot the clutch plate with brake cleaner through the derby plate. snugged up what was left of the rubbing block and continued on.
Great roadside fix for the issue Magnus!
We are having the same problem in Iceland with the hardware you can order it from a dealer but only by the box.
Hi James, and hello Iceland! It is quite odd that parts are not sold by the number needed for the job in hand but it does seem common with some Harley parts. At least they are not too expensive for the older bikes. Thanks for watching !
Hey buddy it’s probably the magnet holding it on so be careful hitting it have a homemade pullers here and I have to say it looks stand with the three holes … is it charging?
You are doing great by the way and thanks for the mention… and one bit of advice for this week check the treads on the engine case they shouldn’t be lose like that …. And make sure when your reassembling that you have the same size engine o ring because the is thicker and thinner ones and the thicker one WILL crack the inner primary ..or worse the engine o ring lip ….
And lastly is you loosen the gear box you will have to loosen the engine and realign them and that’s a pain in the arse as well as you can crack the same lip off the engine case as the inner primary so my advice is don’t loosen either if the primary is straight
Plenty of sealant …..
I made sure that the gearbox was tight before I started stripping down because I did not want anything moving about. The O ring is in good nick so I won't be replacing it. I have not checked the threads yet but I will before it goes back together. I have got puller now, it is in the next video and it worked a treat. Once again Micheal, thank you for all your help !
@@oldnutsgarage your doing great and I’m enjoying the content loved the trips as well keep it coming and I can’t wait for the next instalment
Just went back on your videos … and yes bloody motorcycle…. Right as regards the oil pump to remove it you’re talking about removing the pushrods, timing, cam, a finicky c clip..oil pump …. And you may not fix it (there’s away of using fine grinding paste and an old pushrod) … I have had the same problem and even replaced the pump … and the new pump is now doing the same thing …. I now live with a coke can on the hose an live with it…
Sounds like I will end up living with it as well then ! Sounds like a lot of work without any guarantees, thanks for the advice !
@@oldnutsgarage try a new spring and ball … I remember a guy had a evo with the same problem and he routed the beater to a catch can by the chain and and was using the oil for oiling it not sure how … but I suppose it depends on the amount
I have noticed that mine did more before it needed a service mind you I use mine in the summer … dare I suggest using straight 50 I know some of your subscribers love to debate about oil but I agree with you …
A new ball and spring sound like the cheapest starting point and `I was thinking of trying straight 50 next oil change, so I think I will follow your advice and start off with those.