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How did you address the lack of grooving for keeping the valve stem seals in place?

A brass float needle is too heavy and the carb might work but won't work as it was designed to operate. Aluminium needles will lift on their own due to the weight of the column of fuel above and then the carb will work as it should with the rising float closing the needle rather than the sinking float raising it. It makes about 6mm difference on the fuel height. With the Aluminium needles the carb works as it was originally designed to work.

Please, help me sir with my Shovelhead!

Thank you so much @Old Nut's Garage for your videos to the Shovel! Enjoyed them and took way much along for my own rebuilding, helped me a lot. (Sorry, my english is not as good) Got actually some clutch probs but with your vids I'm gonna fix them! So, keep on! Is there any video you are driving the lady? Greetings from Germany!

I bin the old style banna calipers, and get some decent GMA calipers or something off different harley. These brakes were rubbish when they were first made and still are. I took them straight off my shovelhead after doing everything you doing here. Best😊

Me puede hacer el favor de decirme a donde puedo pedir esa caja del carbulador le agradesco por la informacion

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Best off buying clutch basket complete. Not alot of money.

What a beautiful lovely car i absolutely love the genius of the engineering ( Leonardo "simplicity is the height of sophistication" ) and general ease of maintenance, speed is not my thing but comfort and safety come high on my list of priorities, i love that red colour of your 2CV i am so drooling yours ,thank you for this wonderful privilege of showing us this how to video series, i am of a similar age to you and never liked speed and danger, but some times it takes a life time to appreciate some of these wonderful creations despite a lifetime being distracted on to other machines that will never tick all the boxes, thank you so much.

Could you please tell me what are these two tubes for ?

has this video been reedited with all the details cut out ?, i guess said detail view would be whole videos on there own.

To make the flanges mate square, with the pipes off bend each side of the mounting bracket by putting a pipe over it and bending it until you get the desired fitment. This was a great series to watch.

I owned one and, yes, I can confirm it was unreservedly the worst bike I have personally ever owned. I would agree with the comments made in your video. The stand was lethal and it would not "stand" on it anyway if there was even a slight breeze blowing. It leaked two stroke oil all over and after riding a short distance it looked like you had ridden through a tar field. The electrics were abysmal, the gearshift crude and clunky, the gear ratios were apparently engineered by someone who never passed basic math, the handling was awful even with better tires, the supplied tires appeared to be made of teflon and they never wore out! The brakes?..….. well as far as I was concerned they must have been an optional extra that werent supplied on my bike 😂 The chrome came off the bike when you washed it and the paint became so dull after just one winter that it looked like someone had sandblasted it. Although the engine mostly seemed to fire up and run just about well enough to get you around, the bike never idled, it didnt matter how you adjusted it, the idle and slow speed operation was horribly erratic. I recommend riding one only to see just how low you can go in motorcycle manufacture. Ive heard the Minsk 125 was worse, but I have never tried one and don't want to!

Greetings from Greece again.I have finally finish my rebuild engine and i ve started it easily after almost 20 years.My fear is that ive done something maybe not properly with the carburettor.I've changed almost everything...New cylinder and pistons new valves new seals new electronic ignition and everything is new on carburettor.i've adjust my carburettor according to a burton's video about carburettor.I've adjust my floats from seal to float dots on the centre of the floats to 18 centimetres.Results are not great .. my engine revs good but is not steady and is popping time to time.idle is not good and when i shut off the engine by closing the chock ( cause engine is on a workbench) fuel is dropping from a tiny hole under my center of the manifold.Maybe is too rich??Please need some help here.Thanks a lot for replying my older question.

Which Grease do you recommend

Hi there.iam struggling to find or order this special socket in greece and iam thinking to replace these bolts with allen bolts.what u suggest

Best video online for any vespa engine by far and in english Ive a px i ride and just got a pk in parts to rebuild , this is going to be my go to series when i start the engine .youve just solved a massive hole in my knowledge . Thank you

Hello! I have a problem and maybe you will be able to help me. How to set default valve position? I have Solex cic4 from GSA and in documentation is said that it should be 1,25 degree… I can’t find solex tool for adjusting. With radial size of valve it is 0,24mm movement. How you are doing those adjustments?

Que fantástico! Excelente trabalho.

Really useful. Mine is being treatedf to a new clutch so this is perfect. Thank you.

This reminds me of year 7 french and not being able to get any work done after somebody found this town on this map of France in the classroom

Hi OldNut, I hope you noticed in time that the three lock nuts of the clutch spring plate are mounted the wrong way around. The lug on the plate and the slot should interlock.

No advice or info, How to import brand new motorcycle from China.

Buy new one

Those calipers squealed like crazy. I would just toss them and get multi-piston ones.

I watch some videos of the weirdest names of towns and cities. The Condom city it's beautiful but the name sounds funny, makes me laugh much.

Whats the functions of each color.. Orange.. Yellow.. Blue ..?? Ive got a 1973

ME TOO IM IN CONDOM

Sorry to hear that you're selling the Shovelhead, as I really enjoyed and learned a lot from your Shovelhead videos. I must also say that I agree with your assessment on the Shovelhead. Likewise, the weight issue is going to be the deciding factor for me. I have a 74 FLH and unfortunately, I don't trust it as I did my 750 Kawasaki. However, I have learned so much from watching your videos that I have the confidence in performing the tasks you have shown. Also, on other forums such as Facebook, your name has been mentioned when people get stuck fixing their Shovelheads. Much respect from Australia, hoping to see more of your videos in 2024. Finally, I and many others enjoy your take on things mechanical. Take care, stay safe.

Nul

lol I bought a 78 1/2 80 when I was 21...lots of good points there. But you had to be handy and keep up with the problems. I did a few motor upgrades and it ran like a champ, till 86 when I sold it... currently wrenching on low mile 82...with a few of them "mods" from years gone by...and it has better brake calipers. Nothing sounds better than a well running shovel...

Im using straight gl-4 75w-90 tranny oil, which is pretty close to SAE 50 motor oil... Redline MT-90 or Penzoil works fine.

I had the same problem of wet sumping...I took the pump off replaced the ball and spring. When I was cleaning it out a piece of crap came out the seat area. My first clue something was up was about 2 guarts of oil came out the closed off primary. So im in the process of taking off the primary doing the seals and primary bearing. You can also run 2 seals on the clutch rod incase oil leaks there...but there should be no vacuum if the closed off primary is vented through the chain oiler fitting...fun fun eh?....saving grace on my old shovel is the 13k miles on it...hasent been worked on very much...them rivets look like the tool you buy for boat cover snaps may work.

Good refresher. Haven't been inside a shovel since about 84...restoring an 82 FLH to road worthy right now. Visiting Stroud in the next year or two from Cdn... hopefully get a ride in on a rental. Cheers

Very informative, thank you.

This oil. I use redline shock proff oil on all my harley. My wide glide 83 is like a cat in the gears... I like redline products. Regards from Norway and I like your channel 🎉👍. This oil is like ketchup....

Loving learning from you. But what happened to part 4??

Great vid and explanations. Invaluable

change switches and housings to the 1996 models. much better.

☕ genius

There is no clip for that older , and superior, throw out bearing. I thought that it took a different push rod, but I'm not 100% certain of that for your year bike.

サスペンションタイロットエンド内径とナイフエッジシャフト外形が 違うのは不自然です！・・・・設計ミス！？

Hi There, I have just put up this new video about supercharging a 2CV engine, I thought You might Be interested. Best Wishes Dee th-cam.com/video/mPaYtVwVXwY/w-d-xo.html

I agree and use the same oil in my 3 Honda cb550 s 😀

Nice to see you back in the shop as I enjoy your projects and how you approach the work. Take care and hope you have a healthy 2024!

BTW i have the same cleaner as you have and its over 10 years old and is running very well . I only paid £120 for my cleaner and never use solvent based cleaner i use Diesle .Tractor Diesle. Then use Gunk the green stuff and it works very well to finish the job. I sold my CB1300 because of it being to heavey and have bought a 1200 Bandit and a FJ1200 to replace the one bike . I also have a Super dream for restoration .But a resortation project that i am realy looking forwards to is a 1987 CBR250 MC19.

Great to see ya back. So please get back to your streams and Good luck. Hope that your feeling well . Take care mate . 👍👍👍👍

The biker of today started out on these things like the AP50, SS50,FS1E .The rare KTM Commet Cross, Fantics , Puch Maxi GP, Malaguti and many more . Thanks for taking us back to those crazy hazy days. 👍👍👍👍

Very enjoyable and informative - but we NEED the "money shot" of hearing it being fired up ! Did the sturdier Cosa clutch (which I understand may be bigger than earlier Vespa PXs) fit into the clutch housing without your having to Dremel off some of the webbing on its inside, or was it previously done in the past - or not needed at all ?

Seems the funny square washer at end of xmas tree shaft, (on outside next to clutch) is a retro-designed crude way to transfer away any stress on xmas tree shaft as it comes through its thin casing, onto both the final drive casing and also the outer edge of the clutch housing - for relief at gear changes etc. So it must be rotated to contact both these surfaces, before tightening.