I had the same dilemma as you with the crank seal. I converted my primary to oil bath type and put the seal in the “ normal “ way, it’s been in like that a couple of years now, no problem. Thanks for the video’s.
Just like you James, I could not see the advantage to changing the seal orientation and so far everything seems fine and your experience makes me think it will continue that way. Thanks for letting me know and thanks for watching!
I had the same problem of wet sumping...I took the pump off replaced the ball and spring. When I was cleaning it out a piece of crap came out the seat area. My first clue something was up was about 2 guarts of oil came out the closed off primary. So im in the process of taking off the primary doing the seals and primary bearing. You can also run 2 seals on the clutch rod incase oil leaks there...but there should be no vacuum if the closed off primary is vented through the chain oiler fitting...fun fun eh?....saving grace on my old shovel is the 13k miles on it...hasent been worked on very much...them rivets look like the tool you buy for boat cover snaps may work.
I think the camera must make them look cleaner Tom as I have been away from the garage for three weeks now and they are only starting to look properly clean in all the cracks now. Cannot remember the name of the stuff I use but it is eco friendly, orange smelling with granules and it seems pretty good at getting most of the grime out.
Quick one test the coils sometimes the earth out and heat up I have just replaced the covering … yep that a shovelhead magnets … If the crank seal has a double lip go for it ….. your point is totally valid…. As the amount of primary oil you need is tiny. As for the oil pump it rare that it not just oil age on the seat and check ball … I’ve heard of the seal going but invariably you’ll see oil around the pump … A couple of thing I noticed the torx head bolts should have locking tabs ( u shaped thing with two holes) and loads of lock type on those bolts, I’ve seen what happens 🤬 Goody more content you might nead more tools …
Thanks Micheal, the seal orientation is resolved in the next video ( sort of ). My pump appears dry so I will just do the ball and spring. Thanks again for all the info !
Trusty ol chicken foot wheel puller. The magnets on some rotors are so strong, it feels like the damned rotor is welded to the shaft. You will get some oil intrusion into the stator assembly from the primary if you're running the stock primary lube setup. I have my '72 FLH primary torn down for the third time in 40yrs to change the stator, because the whole setup is shitty. Nice, informative video.👍
Yep, the rotor took some effort to get it moving. Someone has blanked off the original system for the primary so it will have to run wet. It was all new to me as this is my first Harley but it is enjoyable learning new stuff. Thanks a lot for watching !
A little surprised that the friction plate kit didn't come with the proper tool. Or that the supplier doesn't stock them. Not the sort of thing an average chap would have lying around. But, then, if life were easy everyone would do it...
Install the seal the factory proper way around... NOT like the way you took it apart.... especially if you want to run a DRY primary with a belt drive.... which is the HOT setup... : ) You want to keep the oil IN the crankcase.... there is a series of pipes and hoses... that circulates oil to and from the oil pump which usually get removed and disconnected which is why the engine seal is put in backwards to get oil into the primary to lube the primary CHAIN.... Hope that makes sense... PING me if not... thanx and good luck!!
Thanks Tommy, the seal is actually back in, the videos are lagging behind reality. I would love to be able to afford a belt drive but the cost is horrific here in the UK
If your still using a chain make sure the “oiler” tubes and hoses are installed and functioning to oil the primary chain… OR… you can “seal off” the oiler line and return line and then run a “wet primary” like the modern bikes do to bathe the primary chain in oil… which will require a primary oil change when you do the engine and transmission oil (a “3 oil change”)…
My bike has had the wet primary conversion already with everything plugged / blanked off, so I will have to do primary oil changes at each service as you suggest.
Hi Robert, I agree, that was why I mentioned the seal orientation in the video. I watch Tatro sometimes as well as Pacific Mike and they say opposite things on this issue which is why I mentioned my puzzlement on the video. There is logic to both positions. Thanks for watching !
I had the same dilemma as you with the crank seal. I converted my primary to oil bath type and put the seal in the “ normal “ way, it’s been in like that a couple of years now, no problem. Thanks for the video’s.
Just like you James, I could not see the advantage to changing the seal orientation and so far everything seems fine and your experience makes me think it will continue that way. Thanks for letting me know and thanks for watching!
Nice video, good explanation on the how and why you are doing the work the way you are. Thank You for posting.
Thanks Max, glad you liked it !
I had the same problem of wet sumping...I took the pump off replaced the ball and spring. When I was cleaning it out a piece of crap came out the seat area. My first clue something was up was about 2 guarts of oil came out the closed off primary. So im in the process of taking off the primary doing the seals and primary bearing. You can also run 2 seals on the clutch rod incase oil leaks there...but there should be no vacuum if the closed off primary is vented through the chain oiler fitting...fun fun eh?....saving grace on my old shovel is the 13k miles on it...hasent been worked on very much...them rivets look like the tool you buy for boat cover snaps may work.
Another riveting video. Thank you! 👍
Ha, saw what you did there Keith ! I got"brassed" off doing them I can tell you.
What kind of hand cleaner do you use? Your hands are always very clean unlike mine when working on my bike.
I think the camera must make them look cleaner Tom as I have been away from the garage for three weeks now and they are only starting to look properly clean in all the cracks now. Cannot remember the name of the stuff I use but it is eco friendly, orange smelling with granules and it seems pretty good at getting most of the grime out.
make sure you PACK the clutch hub needle bearings with with axle bearing grease before putting it all back together.....
Very important... : )
Thanks for the tip Tommy, I will make sure to do it !
Quick one test the coils sometimes the earth out and heat up I have just replaced the covering … yep that a shovelhead magnets …
If the crank seal has a double lip go for it ….. your point is totally valid…. As the amount of primary oil you need is tiny.
As for the oil pump it rare that it not just oil age on the seat and check ball … I’ve heard of the seal going but invariably you’ll see oil around the pump …
A couple of thing I noticed the torx head bolts should have locking tabs ( u shaped thing with two holes) and loads of lock type on those bolts, I’ve seen what happens 🤬
Goody more content you might nead more tools …
Thanks Micheal, the seal orientation is resolved in the next video ( sort of ). My pump appears dry so I will just do the ball and spring. Thanks again for all the info !
Fix and repair its keeps us busy😊🤔😎
Too true David, it keeps me off the streets!
Trusty ol chicken foot wheel puller.
The magnets on some rotors are so strong, it feels like the damned rotor is welded to the shaft.
You will get some oil intrusion into the stator assembly from the primary if you're running the stock primary lube setup.
I have my '72 FLH primary torn down for the third time in 40yrs to change the stator, because the whole setup is shitty.
Nice, informative video.👍
Yep, the rotor took some effort to get it moving. Someone has blanked off the original system for the primary so it will have to run wet. It was all new to me as this is my first Harley but it is enjoyable learning new stuff. Thanks a lot for watching !
what was that puller kit you got to get the rotor out!?
Just a cheap puller from Ebay, it worked well.
Seal must go in the way it came out I turned up a bit of tube to seat it properly
A little surprised that the friction plate kit didn't come with the proper tool. Or that the supplier doesn't stock them. Not the sort of thing an average chap would have lying around. But, then, if life were easy everyone would do it...
I couldn't find anyone with the right size punch and so gave up and went with my DIY solution, hopefully it will work Bill !
@@oldnutsgarage necessity is the mother of invention…
Install the seal the factory proper way around... NOT like the way you took it apart.... especially if you want to run a DRY primary with a belt drive.... which is the HOT setup... : )
You want to keep the oil IN the crankcase.... there is a series of pipes and hoses... that circulates oil to and from the oil pump which usually get removed and disconnected which is why the engine seal is put in backwards to get oil into the primary to lube the primary CHAIN.... Hope that makes sense... PING me if not... thanx and good luck!!
Thanks Tommy, the seal is actually back in, the videos are lagging behind reality. I would love to be able to afford a belt drive but the cost is horrific here in the UK
If your still using a chain make sure the “oiler” tubes and hoses are installed and functioning to oil the primary chain… OR… you can “seal off” the oiler line and return line and then run a “wet primary” like the modern bikes do to bathe the primary chain in oil… which will require a primary oil change when you do the engine and transmission oil (a “3 oil change”)…
My bike has had the wet primary conversion already with everything plugged / blanked off, so I will have to do primary oil changes at each service as you suggest.
Best off buying clutch basket complete. Not alot of money.
Oil should stay in the motor. Check out Tatro machine on utube
Hi Robert, I agree, that was why I mentioned the seal orientation in the video. I watch Tatro sometimes as well as Pacific Mike and they say opposite things on this issue which is why I mentioned my puzzlement on the video. There is logic to both positions. Thanks for watching !
I watch both as well and I think I lean towards Tatro