Currently dealing with this "losing prime" issue on my 2000 tdi alh beetle. Took a shiny new nickle and some JBweld and plugged the "t" socket on a new filter. (it's one I had on the shelf, I'm aware of the early ones sans "t" device) Resealed pump o-ring and buttered upper two gaskets with a light smear of Halomar) Figured the overnight starting issues was solved...NOPE! 10 years prior, the micro check valve on the tank pick-up tube was clogged and would not pass fuel intermittantly, the previous owner sold it to me cause he thought it was diesel jelling. I put a brass ball check valve in place of the original one at the end of the pickup tube. This check valve allowed the fuel to pass thru since it was maybe three times the ID.....but it did leak back some. I noticed after mityvac ing the filter to fill it, the fuel would race back to the tank, emptying the filter somewhat.I purchased 5/16 aluminum check valve off of EBAY, and am going to insert just behind the filter on the suction side. Its possible the crank seal on the pump is leaking also, need to apply pressure and soap to the area. Hope this helps, trying to avoid the pre-pump but have one ready in case.
It sure is. I had a constant stream accumulating to enough air to stop the engine. Now I might have a single bb size bubble that settles in the high spot after stopping the engine, but usually not even that.
So my car acts as if it runs out of fuel around half to a 1/4 tank. I installed the PD lift pump where the fuel sending unit goes. Didn't help it any. I had another issue of blowing return lines off the injectors after that so then I did away with my fuel t by looping it and connecting the fuel t hoses with a barbed fitting. That fixed that I do have some cracked and degraded fuel lines. Maybe I should just go ahead and replace those see if that fixes it
Based off what you said I would suspect a sending unit issue (o-ring, check valve, etc.) The PD lift pump assembly should've fixed that issue though. As you know already, these things can be hard to diagnose. I completely gutted my sending unit and put in a traditional draw straw made of Tygon. Unfortunately, I did that before I started making videos though.
@@tightwadtv3421 can i gut the PD Lift pump as well? I may do that but first I'm replacing any old cracked fuel lines. Really hoping this fixes my issue Thanks for reply
@@BRWfilms I'm not sure if you can gut the PD assembly. I'm guessing you can, but it's been a while since I last had my hands on a PD sending unit. Just keep at it. My problem was the injection pump and I found a bandaid fix that I could live with. My problems started after running heated WVO and I see you are running WMO which should be easier on things, but maybe these VP37 injection pumps aren't tolerant to alternative fuels. Subscribed and good luck.
@@tightwadtv3421 it could be my pump but I don't think it's the wmo. The car has over 300k and it's all stock. Maybe my pump needs a re seal but again my problem only occurs after half a tank so it's kind of odd. Diesel or waste motor oil.
condamn the Tjoint , and condamn the Fuel heater under car you leave the Tjoin there , but remove 2 hose , then , put an union on return line ,, do the same on heater under car
Thanks for listening to your viewers, will do as the video!
Currently dealing with this "losing prime" issue on my 2000 tdi alh beetle. Took a shiny new nickle and some JBweld and plugged the "t" socket on a new filter. (it's one I had on the shelf, I'm aware of the early ones sans "t" device) Resealed pump o-ring and buttered upper two gaskets with a light smear of Halomar) Figured the overnight starting issues was solved...NOPE! 10 years prior, the micro check valve on the tank pick-up tube was clogged and would not pass fuel intermittantly, the previous owner sold it to me cause he thought it was diesel jelling. I put a brass ball check valve in place of the original one at the end of the pickup tube. This check valve allowed the fuel to pass thru since it was maybe three times the ID.....but it did leak back some. I noticed after mityvac ing the filter to fill it, the fuel would race back to the tank, emptying the filter somewhat.I purchased 5/16 aluminum check valve off of EBAY, and am going to insert just behind the filter on the suction side. Its possible the crank seal on the pump is leaking also, need to apply pressure and soap to the area. Hope this helps, trying to avoid the pre-pump but have one ready in case.
Can someone tell me If this can cause No gas pedal response And goes Rpm itself 10+
A few bubbles in the clear line is normal.
It sure is. I had a constant stream accumulating to enough air to stop the engine. Now I might have a single bb size bubble that settles in the high spot after stopping the engine, but usually not even that.
So my car acts as if it runs out of fuel around half to a 1/4 tank.
I installed the PD lift pump where the fuel sending unit goes. Didn't help it any.
I had another issue of blowing return lines off the injectors after that so then I did away with my fuel t by looping it and connecting the fuel t hoses with a barbed fitting. That fixed that
I do have some cracked and degraded fuel lines. Maybe I should just go ahead and replace those see if that fixes it
Based off what you said I would suspect a sending unit issue (o-ring, check valve, etc.) The PD lift pump assembly should've fixed that issue though. As you know already, these things can be hard to diagnose. I completely gutted my sending unit and put in a traditional draw straw made of Tygon. Unfortunately, I did that before I started making videos though.
@@tightwadtv3421 can i gut the PD Lift pump as well? I may do that but first I'm replacing any old cracked fuel lines. Really hoping this fixes my issue
Thanks for reply
@@BRWfilms I'm not sure if you can gut the PD assembly. I'm guessing you can, but it's been a while since I last had my hands on a PD sending unit. Just keep at it. My problem was the injection pump and I found a bandaid fix that I could live with. My problems started after running heated WVO and I see you are running WMO which should be easier on things, but maybe these VP37 injection pumps aren't tolerant to alternative fuels. Subscribed and good luck.
@@tightwadtv3421 it could be my pump but I don't think it's the wmo. The car has over 300k and it's all stock. Maybe my pump needs a re seal but again my problem only occurs after half a tank so it's kind of odd. Diesel or waste motor oil.
condamn the Tjoint , and condamn the Fuel heater under car you leave the Tjoin there , but remove 2 hose , then , put an union on return line ,, do the same on heater under car
L'avis retour fileter golfe 4
Well that was pointless.