Another great video! One point about torque wrenches - get the "click" in one motion. It takes a very finite amount of power to get a thread started (esp. after it starts to seat the seal!)
Love your videos (yes - realize this one is a couple years old - but still applicable to people like me that want to keep these beemers going. Like your carboard idea - and got to the bottom of a paper towel roll (sure TP would be same size) - and put a small 1" slit at the top and it slid right over to capture the stinky gear oil!...
I typically change my rear drive and transmission oil when I do an engine oil change. After about a 30-minute ride to get everything up to temperature, I open all the drain plugs to give the hot oil more time to drain. Typically I then remove and replace the engine oil filter, then move on to the rear drive and transmission oil replacement. I can get a bit more used transmission oil out by slightly tipping the bike to its side while on the centre stand. Last I top up the engine oil. I find the dripping has essentially stopped by that time, so there's the minimum amount of used oil remaining.
As a beginning rider I desperately need to learn these skills. If at all possible, set a better angle as much of the video was your elbow, as nice as that elbow is; it would have been great to see more of the mechanics. Godspeed.
10:55 you say it takes it right up to the edge. I put in about 850 ml about 50 over and it was no where near the threads.... I checked and the best way is get a graduated measuring container (typically plastic and shaped like an inverted cone. The only way to go is VOLUME..... If you over fill a little I doubt much issue, but to the treads "seeping" seems to me to be too much.
Thanks, I was just looking to see how I would simply check the fluid level, but I gather that it is full if the fluid is just up to the bottom level of the filler opening i.e. concern was how do you check the level on a opening which is parallel to the ground (as opposed to vertical where you might use a dip stick). This works, simple and efficient I guess. Also thanks for mentioning the importance or getting the precise torque level, as you are compressing the crush washer..
You guys are brutal with your torque wrenching.. you said it yerself… I CAN FEEL IT… geeezzzzz .. head bolts.. Rod bolts , & Main Bearings… that’s the only things I use a torque wrench fer…. Or to whack someone…. Nahhhh… but really you do need a torque tool for anything done here…
i am a professional mechanic and i only use a tq wrench where I must. It is way better to use your feel to crush a washer. the problem is many people do not know the feel of a fastener
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 THANK YOU…. I’m Sayin.. I’ve got an R1100 & I Don’t Need A. Torque Wrench For A Filter & A Drain Washer.. omg.. the millennial mechanics…
You HAVE TO look at who your audience is. What exactly do you tell newbies who've never tightened a drain plug? They really have no 'feel' for when a crush washer is being 'crushed'... FAR BETTER to teach them how to properly use a torque wrench to get it right, than to have them try to figure out on their own if the crush washer is crushed enough...! That can be a formula for disaster...
It has been said before, but should be repeated for anyone seeing this for the first time: OPEN YOUR FILL PLUG FIRST Not only does it allow for better fluid flow fromt he drain, *BUT* should you not be able to open it (and have already drained the bike) you're dead in the water with no way to fill the bike!!
bonne idée de changer de bidon pour prendre un avec verseur, vidéo très frustrante, soit c'est flou soit il y a quelque chose devant la zone interessante, il faut déplacer la caméra svp
Another great video! One point about torque wrenches - get the "click" in one motion. It takes a very finite amount of power to get a thread started (esp. after it starts to seat the seal!)
Love your videos (yes - realize this one is a couple years old - but still applicable to people like me that want to keep these beemers going. Like your carboard idea - and got to the bottom of a paper towel roll (sure TP would be same size) - and put a small 1" slit at the top and it slid right over to capture the stinky gear oil!...
I typically change my rear drive and transmission oil when I do an engine oil change. After about a 30-minute ride to get everything up to temperature, I open all the drain plugs to give the hot oil more time to drain. Typically I then remove and replace the engine oil filter, then move on to the rear drive and transmission oil replacement. I can get a bit more used transmission oil out by slightly tipping the bike to its side while on the centre stand. Last I top up the engine oil. I find the dripping has essentially stopped by that time, so there's the minimum amount of used oil remaining.
Usually I only replace bottom crush washer .If top crusher washer leaks replace, which is rare.Thanks for sharing.
As a beginning rider I desperately need to learn these skills. If at all possible, set a better angle as much of the video was your elbow, as nice as that elbow is; it would have been great to see more of the mechanics. Godspeed.
10:55 you say it takes it right up to the edge. I put in about 850 ml about 50 over and it was no where near the threads.... I checked and the best way is get a graduated measuring container (typically plastic and shaped like an inverted cone. The only way to go is VOLUME..... If you over fill a little I doubt much issue, but to the treads "seeping" seems to me to be too much.
one bottle of gear oil 80w90 is 750ml, it's missing 100ml !!!
Thanks, I was just looking to see how I would simply check the fluid level, but I gather that it is full if the fluid is just up to the bottom level of the filler opening i.e. concern was how do you check the level on a opening which is parallel to the ground (as opposed to vertical where you might use a dip stick). This works, simple and efficient I guess.
Also thanks for mentioning the importance or getting the precise torque level, as you are compressing the crush washer..
Thanks brother great video. My brake lines are failing now...uuuug
in my Rt the drain bolt is impossible to unscrew . I have tried with pistol warm and impact driver , but no way .Any suggestion?
I have a r1150rt I want to know if it's the same procedure / ml / oil?
What size crush washers do you need ? Thanks
Grazie, chiaro e semplice !
Good video, thanks
Hi. The gearbox/final transmission crush washer has the same size of the engine one?
Can you use copper crush washers
yes
Thanks, very interesting !!!
You guys are brutal with your torque wrenching.. you said it yerself… I CAN FEEL IT… geeezzzzz .. head bolts.. Rod bolts , & Main Bearings… that’s the only things I use a torque wrench fer…. Or to whack someone…. Nahhhh… but really you do need a torque tool for anything done here…
i am a professional mechanic and i only use a tq wrench where I must. It is way better to use your feel to crush a washer. the problem is many people do not know the feel of a fastener
@@narcissistinjurygiver2932 THANK YOU…. I’m Sayin.. I’ve got an R1100 & I Don’t Need A. Torque Wrench For A Filter & A Drain Washer.. omg.. the millennial mechanics…
@@donaldleavy4379 yep. I have more control with out a torque wrench and I can feel how tight to make a fastener
You HAVE TO look at who your audience is. What exactly do you tell newbies who've never tightened a drain plug? They really have no 'feel' for when a crush washer is being 'crushed'... FAR BETTER to teach them how to properly use a torque wrench to get it right, than to have them try to figure out on their own if the crush washer is crushed enough...! That can be a formula for disaster...
Nice !
It has been said before, but should be repeated for anyone seeing this for the first time:
OPEN YOUR FILL PLUG FIRST
Not only does it allow for better fluid flow fromt he drain, *BUT* should you not be able to open it (and have already drained the bike) you're dead in the water with no way to fill the bike!!
What the heck is that noise in the background?
I think its the focus motor in his video camera, maybe he should change the gear oil on that ;) JK
bonne idée de changer de bidon pour prendre un avec verseur, vidéo très frustrante, soit c'est flou soit il y a quelque chose devant la zone interessante, il faut déplacer la caméra svp
I watched to see what funnel you use. You didn't, you used a Motul bottle 😂
I don't think squizing the bottle of oil is a good idea as it would add air.
Is that Darth Vader in the background?
Darth Vader breathing :)
Oops you already mentioned it :-)