I did it, the canisterterectomy. Great advice. The plug removal on the air box made a huge difference. I couldn't believe it the improvement. It's hot here in Florida..always. Big difference....Thanks again for all the great videos.
@ 18:07 - If oil has been able to escape air will not be in the system for long at all! @ 20:57 - Rear disc - EBC Brake makes a far superior brake disc available at Beemer Boneyard in Randolph, New Jersey for a mere $185. These are simple to replace without removing the rear drive from the bike. I have TH-cam videos showing this procedure. Great video. Thanks for posting it, Chris
Was going to replace my 1987 GL1200 Goldwing with a newer GL1500 Goldwing but came across a K1200LT for sale, After watching your videos on the K1200LT I am now know more about the BMW then my Goldwing, I'm now looking forward to buying K1200LT, thanks for all the work and info you put out there on the K1200LT
On my 2000 K1200LT I was bottoming out on mild speed bumps and curbs. I added hydraulic fluid to the rear shock adjuster as shown here and it has made a world of difference. I also removed the top case and performed the canisterectomy. Damn it feels good to get rid of useless shit. I just filled up the tank and the needle still doesn't go all the way to full, but oh well. Many thanks for the helpful videos!
+Steff Mielziner The next time you take the gas tank off pull the sending unit out and you will see why the gauge is not working correctly. The tube has a dent in it from the gas tank crushing in on itself when the canister got clogged. Take out the innards and drive a reasonably tight fitting socket through the aluminum tube. Put it back together and viola!
I have a 2002LT and I cut the brown wire. WOW! What a difference! Temp outside, here in Tampa, is 92 degrees. Took it for a test drive and no more bogging down. Whole lot more performance! Thanks ( I made a donation today.)
I just pushed the drain hose off the top of the cannister down the side of the bike to drain, no need to go through the pain of connecting it to the old drain hose. Good videos though, thanks for taking the time.
Thanks from Edmonton Canada for posting these videos, we dont have a BMW riders club anywhere near here, but loving watching your videos makes me more knowledgeable with my new bike...
Nice! I have a new-to-me 2000 K1200RS that still has the canister. Currently have it completely disassembled to fix a slipping clutch (o-ring was leaking), so getting rid of that useless canister will be easy peasy.
Follow up question on the canisterectomy: On my 2000 K1200RS, there were 3 hoses from the canister: one, from the fuel tank vent, two, the drain pipe, and three was the hose to the solenoid valve, which goes to the vacuum tubes on the intake manifolds. #3 is the hose that you plugged with a bolt. Instead of plugging the hose, I removed that hose and put a large vacuum cap on the nipple the hose came off of on the solenoid. So the solenoid does nothing now. Question: can that solenoid be removed without generating a check engine code?
You need 4 hands to do some of them jobs... Thank you for all your time. It makes working on this UFO all that much better.. I learn something new every time.
i guess im randomly asking but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow lost the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Declan Rocky I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
The Cat Code plug was only used for a short time. Once the "brown wire loop" was added in mid 2001, the cat code plug was discontinued, since they both do the same thing. There was only a couple months of production where both existed. Also, there was a change to the Motronic to allow the cat code plug/brown wire change to allow a secondary fuel map. The very early ones did not have that map, so unplugging the ATS work around was the only way to relieve the high temp surging problem. As you said, never do the cat code plug/AND brown wire!
Very good presentation on BMW K1200lt that I own and know very little about. It is so difficult to get at everything covered by fairing Kirk Johnson explains everything very good. I like his videos on utube. Thanks.
You could have something going on with the final drive, drive shaft or the brakes. Check them all! There should be no grinding. Also check for tire rub on the swing arm and check the tire pressure. The shock adjustment: If you are afraid you will break the knob, unscrew it, pull it off and use a wrench on the hex head underneath. just know that there is a detent ball under the knob that will fall out so be prepared to catch it!
"It's my bike so Boo Hoo" even 7 years later this is still as funny as heck! Funny we are not troubled by the canisters in Canada. When I first heard about them, I went looking for mine, half an hour later realized it was never there.
More unsolicited comments! Please take no offense, I'm merely trying to help: @ 8:20 - Most other manufacturers have a 10 year warranty on emission related components. Check your owner's manual for Emission Warranty notes. I can't say that I have ever looked, as strange as that may seem after all these years. @ 9:30 - This computer was used from 6/97 - 12/03 only in the K1200LT. Therefore, this issue would likely exist in all US 1999 - 2003 models. @ 9:52 - Brown is Ground/Earth for BMW. Chris
Did you see my question about the charcoal canister PO cut the lines coming onto the canister and removed the supply line and return line. Are the two hoses on the right side of the tank associated with the charcoal canister, thus can I turn those hoses into each other?
Hi John! Congratulamo-nos! I’am Wilson Soares, from Brazil. O have a BMW R1200C 1998. Do you now how much does The engine power increase alter chip replacement ?
8:00 I realize the error of my ways. I had no idea that those crap canisters were such a HUGE issue in so many bikes! Coming from BMW I should have known better..... So here it is: ATTENTION fellow you tubers! You are now advised by both Kirk J and Chris Harris to remove your shitty charcoal canisters from all Beemers at once and throw them as far away from your bike as possible! Kirk
I know this is an older video, but Kirk, if you still have your 00' or 01' LT, could you do a video on resetting the ABS II (non Integrated), including the diagnostic plug and getting to the ABS computer plug by the battery, which seems to be on the difficult side? Another member of your club did one for those bikes with a nice ABS button, which the early K1200LTs do not have. I would imagine you have some tips to make that easier. Yes, the pulses should be tested too, to see what the problem is, but I am under the impression a reset is sometimes needed as fixing the problem doesn't necessarily reset the system.
Wow thanks so much for your quick reply. Does the fact that I notice the grinding with two up only gives any indication? The tire is brand new so pressure must be good.
I can tell you from real experience that you tire pressure is WAY to low running a Metzler two up. When I ran that tire I put 48 Solo and 50psi two up. Bump the front up to 40S-42psi dbl. I think the tire is rubbing the swing arm or is mushing too much while cornering. If your tires are old or have high mileage on them they become noisy as well in corners. As to your other question, any quality click type torque wrench that reads Newton meters. You need one that will go from 5-200 range. Maybe get one in 3/8 and 1/2"
Greetings, I bought a 2003 K1200LT (American version in mph vs kph I'm a Canadian)last year and absolutely love it!! It would appear my battery is done and I need to replace. My local BMW dealer wants $325 (over $450 US$). I'm thinking this is pretty steep. Any options/suggestions to save a poor man a few $$?
Bonjour j aurais souhaité un renseignement est ce que y a une différence entre les boîtes de vitesse moi je possède un k12lt de 2007 Une boîte 2002 est elle pareil ? Merci d avance
Or give them to distant family members for Christmas. A little wrapping paper goes a long way! Tell them there is emergency soup in there and they should save it for the apocalypse!
Hey Kirk Nice videos. I have an 03 LT 1200 and am wondering where to find info on either unpluging airbox temp sensor, snipping brn wire or unpluging map. Thanks
I just bought a used 06 LT with 50,000 miles. I took my wife on a ride for the first time and I feel/hear grinding noise from the rear while free wheeling. I do not notice it when I am by myself. no leak from final drive. I also notice that I cannot unscrew the adjustment of the rear shock - it is stuck on one of the last settings...all the way screwed on. any idea? I really enjoy your videos.
I have two issues my tire is rubbing the swing arm and when I throttle on take off it seems to get stuck in first gear can help me or direct me to some one near Charlotte NC.
Hi Kirk, I have the same bike, a 1999 with only 22k miles. On the second step in your video; do you remove ONLY the air box plug on the Left side of the bike ? Or do you also pull out the Yellow CAD plug on the right side on the rear of the bike? I have the yellow plug in the back of my bike under the rear luggage/trunk. Do I pull it out too ? It is not clear if I should do only one or both things (pull the plug on the air box and pull out the yellow cad plug)? I don't seem to have any issues with my bike even in Hot weather but you are saying this will improve the power/performance of the bike without effecting anything else? Please let me know. Thank you, AJ
illinoisBMWriders Thank you. I removed the rear plug (then put it back) and it seems to make no difference when removed. What difference does this plug do ? I tested the bike without it and it drove/ran fine. I could not find or get to the airbox...I would have to remove the Left side Tupperware, I could not simply reach in and unplug it without removing the Tupperware.
@ 10:54 - You are tricking the Motronic to increase the fuel side of the air/fuel mixture. Most BMW motorcycles suffer from a lean condition. More fuel is good. @ 12:50 - As with the above comment you are placing the Motronic computer into 'Limp-Home' mode which will richen the mixture put show up on the MoDiTeC diagnostic dinosaur as a fault. NOTE: I am NOT suggesting that anyone not do these mods. You will gain rideability & performance with no adverse effects on reliability or longevity.
Hello sir I have watched and learned a lot from your videos thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a 2001 k1200rs and I disconnected the connector on the air box but I'm not finding the little brown wire. Is this necessary to do or is this defeating the purpose of disconnecting the air box connector. Thanks again for your help and I have told a lot of people about your channel. Not a lot of bmw bike riders here in Knoxville Tennessee.
I know where the oil in the shocks go.... The Jack Oil Fairies are stealing it along with my socks out of the dryer and storing it with all my money (cause that is missing too) :)
I buy the kits from DDM Tuning. Just call them and tell them what you have and that you want a 55w kit if available for your bike. Sometimes the CANBUS bikes can only use the 35w kit
KJ, I have to say I have watched and re watched most of your videos. I am in the process of changing all of the fluids, filters etc on my 05LT. I did the gas filter, coolent and final drive last weekend. All that is left is the clutch and brake bleed. I also replaced the plastic quick connects to the metal as per your advice. So the elusive Brown Wire Loop? I do not see a loop anywhere. I have all the tupperware off. What am I missing? Okay to do the airbox sensor on this bike since I cannot find the brown wire loop?
Kirk, I have replaced all of the fluids on my 05LT thanks to your videos. I also did the Can ectomy and replaced the quick connects. I looked high and low for a Brown wire to cut and I do not see anything except for the wrapped wiring runs.... no brown wire loop. Still getting to know this bike. Love the way she handles... not a big fan of the brakes.
It may have the Cat code plug under the rear box above the tail lights. Or you could just leave it and get yourself a John Gemi chip. His chip does the same thing with all of the sensors in place.
Did the canisterectomy fine but during reassembly I made all the elec connections but my left turn signal doesn't work and right side blinks fast. Any thoughts on how I goofed up?
Old post, but I may have the answer for someone else. I had my faring off, and after reassembling, one of the two front turn signals stopped working. Pulled the bulb out and it measured fine. Measured voltage at the connector and it was fine. Tried swapping the two turn signal assemblies at their plugs and it stayed with the housing. Disassembled the housing and cleaned the bulb contacts. Reassembled and it was all fixed. Just a little corrosion in the socket.
I dont know if you still responding to questions. I have been using your videos, got my first bike ever, 2003 k1200rs. Love it, but i have hesitation and back fire when decelerating. Should I do the airbox sensor or brown wire? I only get like 38 mpg, 40 if I baby it so I been wondering why I gt such bad gas mileage. Any info would be wonderful!
+Daniel Ralph This sounds like a classic case of you need to change the O2 sensor. Double check to see if a mouse has moved in to your air box too. You can find one a lot cheaper at the auto parts store. The LT takes a Bosch 13475. Probably the same on yours but double check first.
+illinoisBMWriders thanks, the air filter is fine, I did ride the bike a little with the temp sensor removed and it did not backfire nearly as much and cold start idled much better. the bike has 44k on it so, I will price out an O2 sensor. thanks for your advice
+Daniel Ralph we unplug the sensor on the LT due to a huge hesitation from a stop and low power when it gets over 80F. Are you experiencing this? I think you should change out the o2 sensor, check the valves and then see how it runs. Dont unplug it if you dont need to.
I needed mine to register it.... I called a few places that work on BMW bikes and found one that could look it up based on the VIN #. I used that to register the bike and it worked out OK. They guy said a some of the numbers might not be listed---could be an incomplete Engine #---but Maryland DMV was OK with what I gave them.
@ 5:00 - Your dealer sucks! Did they call the FBI, EPA and US Attorney? You should have told them that this bike never had a charcoal canister and the dealer should give you a new bike since you are riding illegally! @ 8:00 - Sorry, you are so horribly wrong. These are a big problem for every BMW model equipped with these shitty things. Take them off and throw them away. Notes: So far, a very good video. Thank you for posting and for your recent subscription to my channel as well, Chris
I have seen it and I think I need an Arschloch Pig in my shop... While doing the starter I made the mistake of buying some magic and gold filled BS o rings I should have bought at the parts store. $5 each instead of $5 for the whole stinking box! Give him a squeeze for me!
Don’t buy a BMW K 1200 LT. You will regret it. I had one for a few years. Weird front end that will not compress when braking.. so the kinetic energy from the motion has nowhere to go except making the bike awkward and making you fall over if you have the handlebars turned a few degrees. Normally that energy goes into the fork springs when you break. But not on a BMW K 1200 LT. The windshields are distorted, and for that price they should not be. When you use the side stand, the engine will smoke oil out the exhaust When you start the machine after using the side stand. It’s an embarrassing experience..Especially when there’s a hog riders around. But I’ll tell you was really embarrassing, is when you drop the machine because of that weird front end and all you did was use the front brakes with the handlebar slightly turned.. I dropped my BMW K 1200 LT two times in parking lots because all that weight got away for me due to the fact that that front end does not absorb that breaking energy. Speaking of brakes.. The brakes are electric/hydraulic. When you squeeze the lever, and electrical signal goes to a servo motor that dispenses brake fluid to the calipers. You have to change that brake fluid every year. Those are electric pumps that will suck the master cylinder dry in two seconds when you cracked a bleeder with the key on. All the advice on the Internet said do not attempt this job yourself take it to the dealer.The dealer wants $850 to do that job, and it was a three month wait. So I bought the attachment for the master cylinders so I could put a quart of brake fluid in this bottle and not have the system go dry by accident when I cracked the bleeder to bleed the system. If I did get air in the system, the computer would detect that failure, and the brakes will not work ever until you take it back to the dealer and they plug it into the dealer computer and do a reset. Borman and McGregor traveling around the world on BMWs with this brake system could not fix the brake problem they had on a GS in Mongolia. They ended up putting that machine on a train and sending it back to England, and they bought a local Jawa for the cameraman and continued their trip around the world. They even were on a satellite cell phone call to a dealer back in England, and he could not talk them in to getting those brakes to work. Speaking of breaks again, because of the abruptness and the weird friend and handling and low parking lot speeds, I started using just the rear brakes and very low speed’s. The problem there was, there is a horrible grinding noise that sounds like the disc is being cut on a lathe with a metal bit. I pulled the caliper and the pads, everything was fine. I asked the dealer. He said the fix is to buy an aftermarket rotor and pads, $700. Then there’s the rear gear housing bearing failures. I guess I could call it the rear end or the differential but it’s not a differential but it’s the end of the driveshaft it plugs into the wheel housing. The bearings in there fail. It’s common. I asked the dealer. The dealer said, that’s only on overloaded bikes and people that pull heavy trailers. That turned out to be a lie. The thought of the rear wheel locked up made me sell the machine. I was not going to risk my life or my wife’s life on a machine with a known problem that the dealer denies.. I dropped my BMW K 1200 LT two times in parking lots. Because of the break action compounded by their front end of that does not absorb the energy. I had to Yamaha Venture’s. I put 138,000 miles on my first one over 16 years, I put 52,000 miles on my second one. Over five years. I never even came close to dropping either one of those machines. The BMWK 1200 LT has a marvelous ride once you’re rolling on the highway. 85 miles an hour all day it’s no problem. Two up wonderful. Great seats, adequate power, heated seats and heated grips are wonderful, electric windshield, though it’s distorted, does give good protection, but the machine is to flawed, too expensive to maintain, and it has that dangerous feel at low speed’s. Not to mention the rear wheel could lockup due to the common bearing failure. Don’t buy one Buy a Japanese Turing machine. You will regret buying the BMW K 1200 LT. The K 1200 LT is no longer being made. There’s a reason.. Friends of mine that have owned the newer BMWs with the three and four cylinder engines and the GS single cylinder engines. The ones that are on us, tell me that they are not as good or as completely set up as a Japanese machine is right out of the crate. My one friend told me about surging problems, every LT owner I ever spoke to said get used to dropping it, everybody drops them. And when it falls over you damage the mirrors, the mirrors are $492 apiece, that was about six years ago for a black one. So if you are tempted to buy a BMW K 1200 LT, for what it’s worth, my advice is don’t even test drive it. There’s too much bad to go with the good that it has. It’s a compromise with too much on the negative side. I have earned dozens and dozens of motorcycles since 1968, I have over 700,000 miles on road bikes. I made my living for years working as a mechanic in Honda/ Yamaha/ Suzuki/ Kawasaki/Moto Guzzi /Vespa Shops.The BMW K 1200 LT is the only machine I was happy to get rid of...It was the worst machine I ever owned.
I did it, the canisterterectomy. Great advice. The plug removal on the air box made a huge difference. I couldn't believe it the improvement. It's hot here in Florida..always. Big difference....Thanks again for all the great videos.
@ 18:07 - If oil has been able to escape air will not be in the system for long at all!
@ 20:57 - Rear disc - EBC Brake makes a far superior brake disc available at Beemer Boneyard in Randolph, New Jersey for a mere $185. These are simple to replace without removing the rear drive from the bike. I have TH-cam videos showing this procedure.
Great video. Thanks for posting it, Chris
Was going to replace my 1987 GL1200 Goldwing with a newer GL1500 Goldwing but came across a K1200LT for sale, After watching your videos on the K1200LT I am now know more about the BMW then my Goldwing, I'm now looking forward to buying K1200LT, thanks for all the work and info you put out there on the K1200LT
On my 2000 K1200LT I was bottoming out on mild speed bumps and curbs. I added hydraulic fluid to the rear shock adjuster as shown here and it has made a world of difference. I also removed the top case and performed the canisterectomy. Damn it feels good to get rid of useless shit. I just filled up the tank and the needle still doesn't go all the way to full, but oh well. Many thanks for the helpful videos!
+Steff Mielziner The next time you take the gas tank off pull the sending unit out and you will see why the gauge is not working correctly. The tube has a dent in it from the gas tank crushing in on itself when the canister got clogged. Take out the innards and drive a reasonably tight fitting socket through the aluminum tube. Put it back together and viola!
I have a 2002LT and I cut the brown wire. WOW! What a difference! Temp outside, here in Tampa, is 92 degrees. Took it for a test drive and no more bogging down. Whole lot more performance! Thanks ( I made a donation today.)
Hi, you cut only brown wire? (since september i have a 2006 LT, and i will want make same mod)
I just pushed the drain hose off the top of the cannister down the side of the bike to drain, no need to go through the pain of connecting it to the old drain hose. Good videos though, thanks for taking the time.
Kirk, I certainly do not know everything either! It is sad that there are so few of us to admit that! Thank you for your honesty and integrity, C
Thanks from Edmonton Canada for posting these videos, we dont have a BMW riders club anywhere near here, but loving watching your videos makes me more knowledgeable with my new bike...
Nice! I have a new-to-me 2000 K1200RS that still has the canister. Currently have it completely disassembled to fix a slipping clutch (o-ring was leaking), so getting rid of that useless canister will be easy peasy.
Just did this today! Thanks
Follow up question on the canisterectomy: On my 2000 K1200RS, there were 3 hoses from the canister: one, from the fuel tank vent, two, the drain pipe, and three was the hose to the solenoid valve, which goes to the vacuum tubes on the intake manifolds. #3 is the hose that you plugged with a bolt. Instead of plugging the hose, I removed that hose and put a large vacuum cap on the nipple the hose came off of on the solenoid. So the solenoid does nothing now.
Question: can that solenoid be removed without generating a check engine code?
You need 4 hands to do some of them jobs... Thank you for all your time. It makes working on this UFO all that much better.. I learn something new every time.
Thanks for all of the comments! Your vid documenting the rear disk change is very informative really helps when tackling this PITA!
i guess im randomly asking but does someone know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow lost the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Malachi Rene instablaster =)
@Declan Rocky I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Declan Rocky it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Malachi Rene No problem :D
The Cat Code plug was only used for a short time. Once the "brown wire loop" was added in mid 2001, the cat code plug was discontinued, since they both do the same thing. There was only a couple months of production where both existed. Also, there was a change to the Motronic to allow the cat code plug/brown wire change to allow a secondary fuel map. The very early ones did not have that map, so unplugging the ATS work around was the only way to relieve the high temp surging problem. As you said, never do the cat code plug/AND brown wire!
Very good presentation on BMW K1200lt that I own and know very little about. It is so difficult to get at everything covered by fairing Kirk Johnson explains everything very good. I like his videos on utube. Thanks.
Poland. Kirk dobra robota oglądałem twoje wszystkie filmy wideo są bardzo dobre i przydatne też mam BMW K 1200 lt 2004 rok.
I'm really enjoying your videos dude, I have just bought a 2003 model, thanks for the tips and advice.
You could have something going on with the final drive, drive shaft or the brakes. Check them all! There should be no grinding. Also check for tire rub on the swing arm and check the tire pressure.
The shock adjustment: If you are afraid you will break the knob, unscrew it, pull it off and use a wrench on the hex head underneath. just know that there is a detent ball under the knob that will fall out so be prepared to catch it!
for the rear disque brake I remove rivet and put the bolt with locktite now no rattle
You can find them on ebay or some motorcycle specialty stores. Just be sure it is a 55w kit
Excellent!!! Thanks for the videos.
Thank you. My tank would not fill and I'm pretty sure this is the issue
"It's my bike so Boo Hoo" even 7 years later this is still as funny as heck!
Funny we are not troubled by the canisters in Canada. When I first heard about them, I went looking for mine, half an hour later realized it was never there.
I've had 2 Canadian LT's both had the canister.
More unsolicited comments! Please take no offense, I'm merely trying to help:
@ 8:20 - Most other manufacturers have a 10 year warranty on emission related components. Check your owner's manual for Emission Warranty notes. I can't say that I have ever looked, as strange as that may seem after all these years.
@ 9:30 - This computer was used from 6/97 - 12/03 only in the K1200LT. Therefore, this issue would likely exist in all US 1999 - 2003 models.
@ 9:52 - Brown is Ground/Earth for BMW.
Chris
Great vids.Lightbulbs I've gone LED.
Did you see my question about the charcoal canister PO cut the lines coming onto the canister and removed the supply line and return line. Are the two hoses on the right side of the tank associated with the charcoal canister, thus can I turn those hoses into each other?
Hi John!
Congratulamo-nos!
I’am Wilson Soares, from Brazil.
O have a BMW R1200C 1998.
Do you now how much does The engine power increase alter chip replacement ?
8:00 I realize the error of my ways. I had no idea that those crap canisters were such a HUGE issue in so many bikes! Coming from BMW I should have known better.....
So here it is: ATTENTION fellow you tubers! You are now advised by both Kirk J and Chris Harris to remove your shitty charcoal canisters from all Beemers at once and throw them as far away from your bike as possible!
Kirk
Hi buddy. Sometime ago you changed the wire springs that hold the mirrors in place. Where did you get them please? I'm in the UK. Steve
I know this is an older video, but Kirk, if you still have your 00' or 01' LT, could you do a video on resetting the ABS II (non Integrated), including the diagnostic plug and getting to the ABS computer plug by the battery, which seems to be on the difficult side? Another member of your club did one for those bikes with a nice ABS button, which the early K1200LTs do not have. I would imagine you have some tips to make that easier. Yes, the pulses should be tested too, to see what the problem is, but I am under the impression a reset is sometimes needed as fixing the problem doesn't necessarily reset the system.
Let me know your shop address to support
Please stop spamming my channel. I will not put my address on youtube. Please contact me at kirksmotorrad.com
Wow thanks so much for your quick reply. Does the fact that I notice the grinding with two up only gives any indication? The tire is brand new so pressure must be good.
Tire is Metzeler and pressure is 36psi when cold.
I can tell you from real experience that you tire pressure is WAY to low running a Metzler two up. When I ran that tire I put 48 Solo and 50psi two up. Bump the front up to 40S-42psi dbl. I think the tire is rubbing the swing arm or is mushing too much while cornering. If your tires are old or have high mileage on them they become noisy as well in corners. As to your other question, any quality click type torque wrench that reads Newton meters. You need one that will go from 5-200 range. Maybe get one in 3/8 and 1/2"
Greetings, I bought a 2003 K1200LT (American version in mph vs kph I'm a Canadian)last year and absolutely love it!! It would appear my battery is done and I need to replace. My local BMW dealer wants $325 (over $450 US$). I'm thinking this is pretty steep. Any options/suggestions to save a poor man a few $$?
Thank you very much!
Bonjour j aurais souhaité un renseignement est ce que y a une différence entre les boîtes de vitesse moi je possède un k12lt de 2007
Une boîte 2002 est elle pareil ?
Merci d avance
Is the "Progressive" rear spring purchased from Progessive?
I love your channel....you're the best !
I'm going to delete the cat on my 2003 LT.
You know of any videos on this, or experience with this?
I have no experience with deleting that cat. It should be fine as long as you keep the o2 sensor
Excellent!
Is there a way to test the charcoal canister to see if it is blocked?
Love it! "well it's my bike, so boo hoo." LOL!!
Or give them to distant family members for Christmas. A little wrapping paper goes a long way! Tell them there is emergency soup in there and they should save it for the apocalypse!
Hey Kirk Nice videos. I have an 03 LT 1200 and am wondering where to find info on either unpluging airbox temp sensor, snipping brn wire or unpluging map. Thanks
If it has the brown wire loop cut that. If not unplug the ATS.
When the anti-lock brake delete is performed, does the "grabbiness" of the brakes go away?
yes
I just bought a used 06 LT with 50,000 miles. I took my wife on a ride for the first time and I feel/hear grinding noise from the rear while free wheeling. I do not notice it when I am by myself. no leak from final drive. I also notice that I cannot unscrew the adjustment of the rear shock - it is stuck on one of the last settings...all the way screwed on. any idea?
I really enjoy your videos.
great info! great video
Merci
I have two issues my tire is rubbing the swing arm and when I throttle on take off it seems to get stuck in first gear can help me or direct me to some one near Charlotte NC.
I'd suggest that you add, "Try the bike out with the top trunk removed. Performance is vastly improved." to this video list...
Hi Kirk,
I have the same bike, a 1999 with only 22k miles.
On the second step in your video; do you remove ONLY the air box plug on the Left side of the bike ? Or do you also pull out the Yellow CAD plug on the right side on the rear of the bike?
I have the yellow plug in the back of my bike under the rear luggage/trunk. Do I pull it out too ?
It is not clear if I should do only one or both things (pull the plug on the air box and pull out the yellow cad plug)?
I don't seem to have any issues with my bike even in Hot weather but you are saying this will improve the power/performance of the bike without effecting anything else?
Please let me know.
Thank you,
AJ
Only remove the airbox plug on this year of LT. Do not remove the rear plug. Yes it helps in hot weather over 80F
illinoisBMWriders
Thank you.
I removed the rear plug (then put it back) and it seems to make no difference when removed. What difference does this plug do ? I tested the bike without it and it drove/ran fine.
I could not find or get to the airbox...I would have to remove the Left side Tupperware, I could not simply reach in and unplug it without removing the Tupperware.
@ 10:54 - You are tricking the Motronic to increase the fuel side of the air/fuel mixture. Most BMW motorcycles suffer from a lean condition. More fuel is good.
@ 12:50 - As with the above comment you are placing the Motronic computer into 'Limp-Home' mode which will richen the mixture put show up on the MoDiTeC diagnostic dinosaur as a fault.
NOTE: I am NOT suggesting that anyone not do these mods. You will gain rideability & performance with no adverse effects on reliability or longevity.
What type of tire and what is the pressure you are running?
Oops...I forgot to mention I also changed the air and fuel filter.
Hello sir I have watched and learned a lot from your videos thanks for sharing your knowledge. I have a 2001 k1200rs and I disconnected the connector on the air box but I'm not finding the little brown wire. Is this necessary to do or is this defeating the purpose of disconnecting the air box connector. Thanks again for your help and I have told a lot of people about your channel. Not a lot of bmw bike riders here in Knoxville Tennessee.
where is the best place to obtain the hid light here that you show?
Just got that EBC rotor for $138 with shipping.. Its on and no more cow bell...
What if wheel does not move at all?
Does the Chip Replacement make the brown wire/temp sensor/..... thing unnecessary?
yes
@@kirksmotorrad Thank you. I know your YT are a few years old but the 2003 BMW K1200LT is brand new to me! Do you have a link to the chip?
Also since I intend to do a lot of maintenance myself, I need a torque wrench: what would you recommend? Brand, specs...thanks
snap-on, otc, matco
I know where the oil in the shocks go.... The Jack Oil Fairies are stealing it along with my socks out of the dryer and storing it with all my money (cause that is missing too) :)
There are so many HID kits available and mostly for autos. Do you have some preferences on what and where to buy that could help me?
I buy the kits from DDM Tuning. Just call them and tell them what you have and that you want a 55w kit if available for your bike. Sometimes the CANBUS bikes can only use the 35w kit
Kirk, for an 05LT, Airbox sensor ? Brown wire cur? or Cat plug unplug? Thanks! another great video sir.
That one should have a brown wire to cut
KJ, I have to say I have watched and re watched most of your videos. I am in the process of changing all of the fluids, filters etc on my 05LT. I did the gas filter, coolent and final drive last weekend. All that is left is the clutch and brake bleed. I also replaced the plastic quick connects to the metal as per your advice. So the elusive Brown Wire Loop? I do not see a loop anywhere. I have all the tupperware off. What am I missing? Okay to do the airbox sensor on this bike since I cannot find the brown wire loop?
Kirk, I have replaced all of the fluids on my 05LT thanks to your videos. I also did the Can ectomy and replaced the quick connects. I looked high and low for a Brown wire to cut and I do not see anything except for the wrapped wiring runs.... no brown wire loop. Still getting to know this bike. Love the way she handles... not a big fan of the brakes.
It may have the Cat code plug under the rear box above the tail lights. Or you could just leave it and get yourself a John Gemi chip. His chip does the same thing with all of the sensors in place.
Hi, since september i have a 2006 LT, and i want to cut brown wire, only this mod, it is possible for improve performance?
yes. If you have the small brown wire you can cut it and it will run better in hot weather.
Did the canisterectomy fine but during reassembly I made all the elec connections but my left turn signal doesn't work and right side blinks fast. Any thoughts on how I goofed up?
govshrum I cant even imagine how you could have messed up the electrical doing a canisterectomy...
Old post, but I may have the answer for someone else. I had my faring off, and after reassembling, one of the two front turn signals stopped working. Pulled the bulb out and it measured fine. Measured voltage at the connector and it was fine. Tried swapping the two turn signal assemblies at their plugs and it stayed with the housing. Disassembled the housing and cleaned the bulb contacts. Reassembled and it was all fixed. Just a little corrosion in the socket.
I have a 2002 1200LT do I unplug the air bix sensor?
That one should have the brown wire loop you can cut
I dont know if you still responding to questions. I have been using your videos, got my first bike ever, 2003 k1200rs. Love it, but i have hesitation and back fire when decelerating. Should I do the airbox sensor or brown wire? I only get like 38 mpg, 40 if I baby it so I been wondering why I gt such bad gas mileage. Any info would be wonderful!
+Daniel Ralph This sounds like a classic case of you need to change the O2 sensor. Double check to see if a mouse has moved in to your air box too. You can find one a lot cheaper at the auto parts store. The LT takes a Bosch 13475. Probably the same on yours but double check first.
+illinoisBMWriders thanks, the air filter is fine, I did ride the bike a little with the temp sensor removed and it did not backfire nearly as much and cold start idled much better. the bike has 44k on it so, I will price out an O2 sensor. thanks for your advice
+illinoisBMWriders do you happen to know if removing that air temperature sensor okay for this model? I live in SC so it is hot most of the season.
+Daniel Ralph we unplug the sensor on the LT due to a huge hesitation from a stop and low power when it gets over 80F. Are you experiencing this? I think you should change out the o2 sensor, check the valves and then see how it runs. Dont unplug it if you dont need to.
+illinoisBMWriders sounds good, looks like mine may use an 15727 o2 sensor. will do a little more research and try that out. thanks again!
wHAT WAS THE REJECTED CANISTER SUPPOSED TO DO?
It is supposed to catch fuel vapors.
Hey man
Can you recommend a good M/C lift/stand?
I use a Bison Lift. Check out my video review on it.
26:33 that's what she said!
No offense taken! The last thing I want to do is be unclear or misleading. I do not claim to know it all.... just enough to break things!
Kirk
Anybody know where is engine number on LT 1200
Thanks. Martin Ferrari.
I needed mine to register it.... I called a few places that work on BMW bikes and found one that could look it up based on the VIN #. I used that to register the bike and it worked out OK. They guy said a some of the numbers might not be listed---could be an incomplete Engine #---but Maryland DMV was OK with what I gave them.
@ 5:00 - Your dealer sucks! Did they call the FBI, EPA and US Attorney? You should have told them that this bike never had a charcoal canister and the dealer should give you a new bike since you are riding illegally!
@ 8:00 - Sorry, you are so horribly wrong. These are a big problem for every BMW model equipped with these shitty things. Take them off and throw them away.
Notes: So far, a very good video. Thank you for posting and for your recent subscription to my channel as well, Chris
I have seen it and I think I need an Arschloch Pig in my shop... While doing the starter I made the mistake of buying some magic and gold filled BS o rings I should have bought at the parts store. $5 each instead of $5 for the whole stinking box! Give him a squeeze for me!
Don’t buy a BMW K 1200 LT. You will regret it. I had one for a few years. Weird front end that will not compress when braking.. so the kinetic energy from the motion has nowhere to go except making the bike awkward and making you fall over if you have the handlebars turned a few degrees. Normally that energy goes into the fork springs when you break. But not on a BMW K 1200 LT. The windshields are distorted, and for that price they should not be. When you use the side stand, the engine will smoke oil out the exhaust When you start the machine after using the side stand. It’s an embarrassing experience..Especially when there’s a hog riders around. But I’ll tell you was really embarrassing, is when you drop the machine because of that weird front end and all you did was use the front brakes with the handlebar slightly turned.. I dropped my BMW K 1200 LT two times in parking lots because all that weight got away for me due to the fact that that front end does not absorb that breaking energy.
Speaking of brakes.. The brakes are electric/hydraulic. When you squeeze the lever, and electrical signal goes to a servo motor that dispenses brake fluid to the calipers. You have to change that brake fluid every year. Those are electric pumps that will suck the master cylinder dry in two seconds when you cracked a bleeder with the key on. All the advice on the Internet said do not attempt this job yourself take it to the dealer.The dealer wants $850 to do that job, and it was a three month wait. So I bought the attachment for the master cylinders so I could put a quart of brake fluid in this bottle and not have the system go dry by accident when I cracked the bleeder to bleed the system. If I did get air in the system, the computer would detect that failure, and the brakes will not work ever until you take it back to the dealer and they plug it into the dealer computer and do a reset. Borman and McGregor traveling around the world on BMWs with this brake system could not fix the brake problem they had on a GS in Mongolia. They ended up putting that machine on a train and sending it back to England, and they bought a local Jawa for the cameraman and continued their trip around the world. They even were on a satellite cell phone call to a dealer back in England, and he could not talk them in to getting those brakes to work.
Speaking of breaks again, because of the abruptness and the weird friend and handling and low parking lot speeds, I started using just the rear brakes and very low speed’s. The problem there was, there is a horrible grinding noise that sounds like the disc is being cut on a lathe with a metal bit. I pulled the caliper and the pads, everything was fine. I asked the dealer. He said the fix is to buy an aftermarket rotor and pads, $700.
Then there’s the rear gear housing bearing failures. I guess I could call it the rear end or the differential but it’s not a differential but it’s the end of the driveshaft it plugs into the wheel housing. The bearings in there fail. It’s common. I asked the dealer. The dealer said, that’s only on overloaded bikes and people that pull heavy trailers. That turned out to be a lie. The thought of the rear wheel locked up made me sell the machine. I was not going to risk my life or my wife’s life on a machine with a known problem that the dealer denies..
I dropped my BMW K 1200 LT two times in parking lots. Because of the break action compounded by their front end of that does not absorb the energy. I had to Yamaha Venture’s. I put 138,000 miles on my first one over 16 years, I put 52,000 miles on my second one. Over five years. I never even came close to dropping either one of those machines.
The BMWK 1200 LT has a marvelous ride once you’re rolling on the highway. 85 miles an hour all day it’s no problem. Two up wonderful. Great seats, adequate power, heated seats and heated grips are wonderful, electric windshield, though it’s distorted, does give good protection, but the machine is to flawed, too expensive to maintain, and it has that dangerous feel at low speed’s. Not to mention the rear wheel could lockup due to the common bearing failure. Don’t buy one
Buy a Japanese Turing machine. You will regret buying the BMW K 1200 LT. The K 1200 LT is no longer being made. There’s a reason.. Friends of mine that have owned the newer BMWs with the three and four cylinder engines and the GS single cylinder engines. The ones that are on us, tell me that they are not as good or as completely set up as a Japanese machine is right out of the crate. My one friend told me about surging problems, every LT owner I ever spoke to said get used to dropping it, everybody drops them. And when it falls over you damage the mirrors, the mirrors are $492 apiece, that was about six years ago for a black one.
So if you are tempted to buy a BMW K 1200 LT, for what it’s worth, my advice is don’t even test drive it. There’s too much bad to go with the good that it has. It’s a compromise with too much on the negative side. I have earned dozens and dozens of motorcycles since 1968, I have over 700,000 miles on road bikes. I made my living for years working as a mechanic in Honda/ Yamaha/ Suzuki/ Kawasaki/Moto Guzzi /Vespa Shops.The BMW K 1200 LT is the only machine I was happy to get rid of...It was the worst machine I ever owned.