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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Step-by-Step How To Tighten or Remove Crank Bolt Without a Pulley Holder Tool. Especially useful on automatic transmissions.
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*TOOLS & SUPPLIES*
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You forgot to say make sure piston is in the power stroke! Piston can be at the bottom of the intake stroke or the power stroke. The valves are open at the intake stroke, and you run the risk of bending the valves.
Loosen the sparkplug, but keep it there. If you turn the crank and hear air coming out, then you know the valves are closed, and is OK to put the rope in. If no air coming out, the valves are open, and you better not put the rope in!
^^^^^^
FasNuf Garage and to a sometime mechanic I’m still as confused as when I came on the thread.
No way to bent valves
That would depend on the engine. On a sbc you won’t be bending valves.
How do you know what stroke it's on? Does TDC on the cams (not crank) tell you it's between the compression/power stroke vs the exhaust/intake stroke or can this differ depending on the manufacturer?
I wonder if the crank shaft / connecting rod journal will damage the soft metal bearing while pressing up against it with such great force with no oil pressure present
Holy cow. It worked better than expected. Thanks to folks like you for posting these AWESOME tip videos. and like Frank below, I was hesitant but had pretty much ran out of options. Thanks a bunch. Will never forget this trick. Simply genius.
Glad the video was able to help you out buddy! Thanks for all the thanks! I appreciate it. Keep on doin' it yourself!
you are a lifesaver, worked perfect even on the Mercedes v8, saved me buying the expensive tool
You're welcome, glad it helped you out 👍🏻
I did this on my mk1 golf and it works. Just stumbled across this now. Must have read it somewhere
Great old trick we use to do with Cast Iron engines or lawnmowers and it works but you missed a very "probably the most" important step. This needs to be done on the compression stroke. Done wrong with too much rope in the chamber WILL bend your valves because the piston is still coming up and the valves will not be closed yet and you might not even know you did damage. Do a compression test after and if done wrong your No#1 piston will have lower compression because you bent a valve just a little if you're lucky. 50/50 chance of getting it wrong. The easy way to know you are on the compression stroke is by removing the valve cover and make sure both valves are closed. With today's Alloy heads you could try this trick but on a 4 banner put the same amount of rope in #1 and #4 to help take the stress evenly, use as little rope as you can to make sure all valves are closed as both pistons come up.
Or while the Valve cover is off and you have no rope then put a wrench on the Cam or Cams if you have two to stop the engine from turning. The less stress you can introduce on the cams or pistons and the head the better. This old trick on today's engines is not recommended. In today's Engine, the Valves are open and close in perfect timing with the piston leaving no room for errors. With old school engines, there was more room in the chamber and the valves were closed long before the piston reached TDC.
The best trick is to stop the Pulley from turning by using an old belt or the correct tool for the job.
Thanks for sharing that helpful information Richard 👍
Great method, had no tool to stop crank rotating and came across this video. Worked perfectly on a 97 Excel. Thank you
Youre welcome glad it worked for you 😀
Worked perfectly on my 03 4Runner V8. Saved me $70 for the tool.
Motivation comes from inspiration or desperation. Cool! Some of the best things are the simplest. Thank you for sharing.
You're welcome 👍🏻
Bro your a F ing God. I found a trick on getting it off with a breaker bar if your engine rotates the right way but getting it torqued down was driving me nuts. Thanks for this one. This will be one that I keep with me for a long time.
You're welcome, glad I could help you out 👍 yeah it's a nice trick to get out of a jam. That's why I needed it
Been having trouble trying to figure out how I was going to do this. Or finding a good video to figure it out. I'm going to try this right now! I hope it works. Thanks.
You're welcome, just be sure to do on compression stroke so valves will be closed 👍
BRAVO! I was stressing out trying to figure out how to tighten the crank pulley bolt on my Toyota 22R engine. Couldn't find a tool online and EVERY auto parts store in town had no idea how to do it let alone having the tool. But everybody sure had one for HONDAS. I can't believe it, the 22R engine is one of the most POPULAR engines going, yet just about the only tool you ever see is the Honda tool. What's up with THAT?
I called my mechanic friend to inquire about the torque force against the head, and he said such force pales in comparison to ignition forces and it would be totally safe to use the rope. So, I set number one (front) cylinder at bottom dead center on the compression stroke and fed in about 20 feet of small rope. The engine continued to turn with no resistance as I tightened the bolt, and I thought it would go past top dead center. However, as I got closer to the top, suddenly (about 30 degrees BTDC) the motor rapidly increased in resistance before it stopped. A bit more pushing and the torque wrenched clicked. I simply reversed the wrench to lower the piston and removed the rope. DONE!
NOTE: Although you may be ok on any stroke, I used the compression stroke so that both valves would be closed (why chance it). To do this, open the distributor cap and line up the rotor to the wire that fires the piston right before number one (or whichever cylinder you're using). In my case it is number 2. Sequence is readily available online. Timing mark will be at BOTTOM dead center (180 degrees from top). Install the rope and you're ready to go. Make sure to use fairly clean rope, and not old or weathered polypropylene that could shed particles. I used very small rope, almost like thick string and a long screwdriver to help push it in. Just make sure to push in enough, but you don't have to jam it in the cylinder.
Awesome! I have a 22RE in my 88 pickup. When I had to tighten the crank on it, its manual transmission, I just chocked wheels, put in gear and in 4wd and was able to torque it that way. Yeah I think most guys have to end up making the tool for that engine out. Glad you were able to get it done though! :)
Mine is 86' 22R automatic pickup. Head got destroyed due to faulty (new) radiator blowing off hose. Yeah, new head now but well worth it. As you probably figured, I replaced the pulley seal and infamous oil pump seal. It's my work truck and my friends tell me to get a newer truck. I could get brand new, but ya know what, these old Toyotas are worth their weight in gold! That must be the reason why people keep asking if I want to sell it.
I too have Cal plates. If you don't mind, just curious what part?
Thanks for the rapid reply!
Nice! Ohh dang, yeah I replaced the head on mine too after a blown head gasket too. Yeah theyre great lil bulletproof trucks. Hahah yeah I always have people come knockin at the door asking to buy mine. Im livin in Central CA right now, Modesto.
LOL, they knock on my door too. San Diego area for me. Nice talking.
This is a great video of what NOT to do.
Instead, try:
1. Rattle gun
2. impact bar.
3. Put the vehicle in 5th gear and foot on the brake (manual).
4. remove the cover plate between the gearbox & engine and use a large screw driver / pry bar against the ring gear on the flex plate (automatic).
4. leave the drive belts on and hold the alternator pulley with the appropriate socket.
5. buy a pulley holder...
6. last resort use a breaker bar against the road or chassis rail and flick key, engaging the starter motor momentarily.
you should never fill your combustion chamber with foreign material....
No hate, but as a mechanic of 15 years i honestly could think of a dozen methods that would be more efficient and less costly should they go wrong.
Much thanks for your informative suggestion. You are an expert !
I use expandable foam works the same and less risk of bending a valve.
You are a freaking lifesaver! I was a bit sceptical, but this method really worked. Thank you so much!
youre welcome! glad it worked for you :)
This is one of the best methods for crankshaft bolt.
when torquing down the bolt, dont bounce on it. it should be a constant pull until the click to get correct torque values. good trick though if you dont have the proper tool or 1/2" air or cordless impact.
Thank you for the tip 🙌👍
To hold my crank pulley in place I welded two bolts to a piece of flat metal effectively making my own tool. Of course you need a welder to make this happen. But I got by just fine with this method. I would be weary of putting anything in my cylinders besides gas and oil.
Thanks David. Yes thats what I plan on making next time, but this worked in a pinch 👍🏻
Clothesline is better! Use a soda straw to feed the clothesline in the cylinder. Don't use wire! It could break! Get the piston below TDC and install the rope. Then bring the piston up and tighten the bolt. Do the opposite to loosen. Clothes-line in the cylinder can also be used to hold valves up to replace valve seals. Goodson has valve tools. OTC and Kent-Moore has tools. E-Bay has Snap-on scanners and adapters and manuals and a battery Pak. The battery Pak allows you to hook it up to a 120 volt outlet to set up the scanner away from the vehicle and also review codes from the tested vehicle. Get the latest cartridges to work on later cars. If you scan down, you can get better deals from other sellers.
Someone made a Vid and do it by using an old belt. You put it around two pulleys and put a half loop under the crank shaft pulley, it stops it moving when you tighten it up
Thanks for sharing, will check out 👍
I was skeptical at first but out of desperation I tried it and it actually worked. Thanks
You're welcome 👍🏻
Gracias..I am trying..it now .
You're welcome, if you make sure you do it on the compression stroke so the valves are closed 👍
If the piston is coming up on the exhaust stroke, you can and likely will bend your exhaust valve(s)... Make sure you are moving up in the compression stroke so valves are closed... and If you don't know how to find TDC I don't know what to tell you. Take the valve cover off I guess and watch the cam lobes. Most vehicles have timing marks on the crank pulley but, again, these will not distinguish between exhaust and compression strokes only your cams/valves do that.
Thanks for sharing, yes on compression stroke to avoid any possible valve damage. I usually put a socket extension in sparkplug hole and see when its rising or falling to check
@@JonnyDIY It rises on the exhaust stroke as well. Crank will turn 720 degrees to complete all 4 strokes, so 2 times it will turn before your valvetrain completes one cycle. Other than actually popping the valve cover and looking at the cams, or perhaps if you have an older vehicle with a distributor you could keep an eye on the position of the little rotor (compression comes right before the spark so right before the rotor makes contact, but you have to know the number of the piston you're working with), the only way I know how to find compression stroke is to place your hand over the empty spark plug hole and feel for pressure. If you turn the crank 360 degrees but feel nothing, you're on the exhaust/intake stroke and your valves are open... so turn it another time and you should feel some pressure/resistance and that will be the stroke you want to feed the rope. If you pass it, it's 2 more full rotations of the crank to get back to it.
Btw thank you for the video, aside that minor caveat that I felt I should add, I thought this was brilliant but couldn't find a rope that was loose enough to bend and feed in =D. I don't have a torque wrench that can measure 133ft lbs so I just stuck on a crescent on my camshaft to lock it in place and put a "good" amount of tension on the bolt without feeling like I was going to break my new chain or guides (I had the valve cover off for the timing kit job anyway). I'll have to slow poke it down to my local shop to have them properly torque it I guess.
Remember ^Exhaust^ > -Intake- > ^Compression^ > -Power!-
@@thestruggleisreal9626 thanks again, glad you got your job done. 133 ft lbs is pretty tight. If you're worried just throw a little medium blue threadlocker on the crank bolt and call it a day 👍🏻
Or if you want to torque to spec. Autozone loans torque wrenches out for free with deposit
I thought about doing this trick but ended up using another trick using acc belt. It was put on with 246lb/ft at factory 16 years ago. I didn't want to chance that much force, even though the method I used force on the SP and WP. I would try this method with an engine not needing that much torque.
Nice! yeah Ive never done it with that high of torque. Glad you got er done!
Jonny DIY Thanks. This was the first video I was considering. Cheers.
Kool video, but nope.
I’m sorry man, don’t want to b one of those guys..but this method is a horrible idea. Will it work...yes! But you’re putting so much stress on the bearings. You can easily damage something. I can appreciate you trying to help people out and I know it can be tempting to try to do things with out a tool you don’t use very much but either rent the tool or borrow one or buy one. $70 is way cheaper then a new engine
Youre right, I agree. If you can get ahold of the right tool do it, or heck make one, not too difficult. But this trick isn't anything new, its an old method people have done for years. Like anything though your mileage may vary.
Thanks, but there is the possibility of introducing rope scrapings, goo, trash or plain old dirt into the cylinder when you do this, and it can become a serious problem if you compress the rope too much and can't get all of that stuff out of the cylinder when the job is over. However, it is a great tip to remember if you absolutely have to remove or tighten the crank bolt and don't think you have the right tools. It is similar to using wet paper towels and peanut butter to push out a sealed ball bearing that is tightly fitted into a blind hole (i.e. can't get to it from the back). If you don't know about that trick, search TH-cam - you have to see it to believe it.
Some air or battery powered impact tools are made so that the tightening takes place without necessarily spinning the engine over, or with only minimal securing of the crank pulley by using an old leather belt or drive belt, but that only works if there is enough working room to get the power of the impact wrench and the socket where you need it. If you can't borrow the correct tool from a national auto parts store like Auto Zone or O'Reilly's, there is another a trick to consider, from Scotty Kilmer, and it is quick, easy and doesn't require finding or buying a rope to thread into the cylinder or removing a bunch of parts, or spending all afternoon working on the problem. Take a look - th-cam.com/video/7G-adEVjfWI/w-d-xo.html.
Thanks for making this video and for reminding us that imagination and experience are the best tools, and that we don't necessarily have to buy or rent an expensive tool to get the job done.
Thanks, yeah I didnt have the right tool, needed to get it done, & autozone doesn't rent a crank pulley holder tool. Ill be making a pulley holding tool for the next timing belt job on another Toyota though 😀👍🏻
I tried the trick Scotty kilmer talked about, several other people mentioned it too. Didn't work. I was hesitant to repeat it because it could break a tooth on the flywheel or the starter or do other damage.... I know it works for some people but I figured that if my bolt is that tight I don't want my starter and flywheel slamming up against a solid object like that. So I just did the trick by doubling over an old rubber belt and used about a 4 ft (or so) long breaker bar.
Worked perfectly! Saved a lot of time, thankyou!
Youre welcome 😀 glad it helped you out 👍🏻
Wow did it in less than 10min! Thanks!
Youre welcome. Awesome! Im glad it helped ya out!
That crankshaft pulley is really stuck on there! Mine has the 4 6mm-1 holes...I got a puller from HF and the washers ended up getting bent, but I only used 2 screws. I'm gonna try it again with 4 screws into the crankshaft pulley and maybe it'll help distribute the force so it will pull it out. It's also on a 1998 Rav4.
Yes if its got 4 holes and you can get or make a bracket that will distribute the force across 4 points that would be better... If its really stuck on and you still have the car put together you could try bumping the starter with a breaker bar on the crank bolt to break it free
Thank you! Help me to solve it! Greeting from Costa Rica!
Awesomel, glad it helped you out. Wow Costa Rica, how cool. Greetings back from California 🤙
Everyone don't have money to buy tools like some people
how's your valves after doing that trick?
Good, never had an issue with them 👍
Worked for me. Used paracord.
My name is eric, don't know anything about mechanics, so my question may appear silly, especially after watching your video of how to tighten a crankshaft bolt, that being said, if I want to loosen the crankshaft bolt can I do the same thing in reverse, because in theory as long as long as that space is being taken up by the rope I can loosen that bolt also, am I correct?
If you want to loosen it without the tool (20 bucks at autozone), just mark your pully, turn your key just to get it to move the pully, see which way it turned... now put your socket and wrench on it, and block the path the wrench will travel. Once you have the wrench blocked from turning with the pully, turn your key just a bump at a time... MAKE SURE YOU UNPLUG THE SPARK PLUGS SO THE ENGINE WONT START... this is how I loosened mine on a 01 tracker 2.5l automatic.
Just tryed this on a 40 year old big block im tearing down. Awesome hack dude
Sweet! Good luck with the big block build :)
Simply Amazing!!!! Nice trick bro!!! :)
Thank you, glad I could help you out 👍
@@JonnyDIY Hey Bud! I tried this and it worked!!! I didn't have any rope so I just just used some CCTV cable/wire and it worked like a charm. Perfectly!!! Saved me a whole lot of time and aggravation!!! Props to you!!! Thanks Again!!! :)
@@jamesj.litteriojr.433 Awesome you're welcome, glad it worked for you 👍
Thanks a lot, worked perfectly!!!!
You're welcome. Glad it helped you out!
The mechanic I took my car to for belt replacements left my crankshaft pulley bolt loosened (NOT SURE WHY). Two weeks later, my belts broke and I was told I needed new belt tensioners. I ordered the two tensioners and on my way to the mechanic, my crankshaft pulley fell out. Now I have been told I need a new pulley as well.
Should i use the old pulley that fell off or do I actually buy a new one. The ones on my Infiniti cost 345$ and above. Shit happens when the car is due for inspection soon.
Sorry to hear about your car problems. Please do not go back to the mechanic who made these mistakes number 1, unless he's going to do all this work for free now. And yes unfortunately you will need a new crankshaft pulley if it fell off and was dinged up/bent or has nasty scratches. It could be unbalanced now or shred through new belts. If you can you may try and find a used one from a Salvage yard. Best of luck!
I was afraid of doing this because I wondered what might happen if an exhaust valve was open when the piston came up with a bunch of rope in the cylinder. Could it bend a valve or something? So what I did was wrap rope around the v-belt pully which was bolted to the damper, and I tied that to a frame member. The rope stretched a lot before it finally stopped the motor from turning, but I was able to get the crank bolt out that way. Now I have to torque it tight. Was looking for a better way.
Hmm. Well you can essentially do the same in reverse. You can also try wedging something in through cam gear or pully to stop motor turning. Also look up 2x4 pulley holder tool. Easy to make one out of 2x4 lumber and a couple bolts 👍🏻
And PS- just make sure when you do the rope trick its on compression stroke. That way no worry about bent valves
Worked for me. Thanks!
Youre welcome, glad you got it done!
Method seems to work but I think I rather just get the crank holding tool then gamble with Murphy's law.
Yeah you can make one out of a 2x4 or some metal flat bar pretty easily. Ill probably make a metal one next timing belt job
Freakin' brilliant bro!!!!
Or u could use an impact gun and not risk ruining a cylinder...rope fibers trapped in oil landings gotta be good...beat up them bearings soft alloy loves being smashed!
That's true, gotta make sure done on compression stroke not to bend a valve too. This will work in pinch but crank only was 90ish on this one. Probably wouldnt try on the 200+ ft lb ones for sure!
Good job and good idhe man.
Thanks for watching & commenting :)
I have a manual and it still spins in gear with on ground and brake on.
Hmm make sure the wheels are chocked too. Thats always worked for me with a manual
not bad ... not bad at all. ..
It works 👍 just be sure to do on compression stroke
Gee, I wonder why thats not in the service manual? oh yea maybe because you mike bend valves or cause any number of catastrophic issues requiring engine disassembly.
If worried about valves, just make sure on compression stroke. I'm not 1st to do this. This trick probably been around almost 100 years
I have also I never posted to these sites, TH-cam comments before and I don't know how long it will take before you respond but FYI I have to go get this pulley off a car at pick n pull tomorrow mourning, so need a response ASAP
+Eric leopard . Yes it will work the same to remove. If you have a cordless impact drill driver you could use that. Bring screwdrivers too and pry bar if you have. Sometimes you can wedge something in to stop belt drive moving. Rope will work surely though. Bring smaller rope that'll for certain fit through spark plug holes. Good luck tomorrow!
before removing the timing belt you can put a socket/wrench on the bolt and jam it near the control arm or something of the sort and then just turn the key and crank the engine for a millisecond and it will loosen the bolt....make you you jam it in the right direction.
And now you've got dimpled pistons
Just be sure to do on compression stroke so valves are closed 👍
Criticism time.😁 That wire hanger can scratch your cylinder walls, causing oil consumption and gas can slide through the scratches, past the rings into the oil. Also the rope can have sand and dust and fine rocks, which can do the same as the hanger. Just be careful to use new rope and no metal rods or hangers. Try an unsharpened pencil.🤗
It may work with timing belt on, but my timing belt broke. It's manual 5 speed Chevrolet metro. Thanks
Try and wedge something in cam gear to keep from spinning. I've done that before without damaging anything
Actually sorry guess that wouldn't work either. Use the old belt and somr vice grip pliers and you should be able to crack it loose. Use some heat if you have to. Impact gun if you have the room
I accidentally came across this video lol. This seems stupid, but it can't be stupid if it works.
it works! :)
I can assure you, it works. No fear of damaging the piston or valves either. The force applied at the pulley bolt is far greater than the force on the piston, lever arm ratio ensures that.
Dude that was fucking ingenious...thank you!!
You're welcome! Awesome, glad it helped you out! Thanks for commenting :)
DO NOT EVER DO THIS!!!! if your Valves are opening on that piston stroke you stand the Chance of bending your Cylinder Head Valves.
Make sure engine on compression stroke
Saddly my engine is diesel... cant use the metod...
Ohh dang thats right, no spark plugs 🤦♂️
i have nissan x trail t30 my crankshaft is making a lot of noise can we tighten it or we have to replace it
Determine where the noise is coming from. Hopefully its not the crank. Maybe top end cams or valves.
@@JonnyDIY mechanic inspected it and he said noise is from crankshaft while turning on engine while running noise is going off
@@koushikuppu6455 hmm make sure not the harmonic balancer
just fill it up with water and put the sparkplug back in ;)
Water? How about oil?
The trick with the rope it one of the most effective method to remove it tight a crankshaft bolt.
Just make yourself the tool. Time is money.
I will next time. At that time I didnt have access to many tools like I do now 👍
MY Mercedes need 500nm or 360ft/lb
Are you sure the piston can take uneven pressure of that rope?
Im not sure about 360 ft/lbs. Never have had to torque a crank bolt above around 200 lbs.
Jonny DIY its a m120 v12
Yeah jaguars are about 280ft/lbs too we have to fabricate a holder to tighten it on correctly
rope might get tangled up in there. especially if you have a small spark plug hole.
yes be careful to choose smaller rope sizes to fit easily through spark plug openings
That was also my concern. However, although it's highly compressed remember that it is still in the same position it was when loose; only more closely packed. So it should pull right back out (I removed my rope gently). In the unlikely event it tends to knot, as soon as there is ANY resistance push back in, insert thin screwdriver, and wiggle the rope a bit while pulling out.
Note: I did not have this experience so I am sharing only what makes sense to me.
it worked tighting it for me but i forgot my timing cover, so when i tried to do it to take it off, it doesnt work, tried nylon rope and cotton rope both thick and thin, help me plz
Rotate the engine one more stroke and it should work. So that the piston is coming back up when youre loosening.
Or you can always bump the starter with a breaker bar wedged against floor.
Really bad idea pushing the cylinder head with the piston, the proper way is to make a holding tool out of two strips of metal and three bolts. Rope trick is fine for replacing valve stem oil seals
Yeah if you can make a pulley holder tool, even better. Stay tuned Im going to make one for another timing job on a toyota soon 👍🏻
But if there is on average a 135 psi on a cylinder head and a head is about 10 square inches pushing it with 100 to a 150 of torque lbs seems negligible.
Because cylinder wall doesn’t mean nothing
Just have to worry about valves. But if on compression stroke no worries 👍
Ohh lord hes been jumping for years
😂💕👍
Us an old power cord instead
Good idea 👍
Om my 98 2.2L camry the crank shaft spins when i try too loosen the bolt how do i stop this
You can put a punch or strong screwdriver through one of the holes in cam sprocket to keep it from turning when loosening crank bolt
@@JonnyDIY i would but the. Timing belt cover is plastic and it sits right behind it i would just tear it to shreds ....
nice triok
Weird 😳
That wont accidentally bend valves will it???
Nope not in my experience. The rope doesnt allow the pistons to get to the top of the stroke so no valve interference
Ya but the rope is pushing on the closest thing it can, and if a valve is open its going to be the valve head. I would only due this when all valves are closed, it doesnt take much to bend a valve with that torque
Yes JD, safest bet is to make sure piston on power stroke
Lol can’t believe this worked on my 2003 Magna TL
Nice! 👍
Jonny can i use the rope on my friends toyota 4runner v6?
Yes this will work no problem on the 4runner V6 as well.
I'm not sure I like this method. There're a few things that can go wrong including leaving rope debris inside the combustion chamber or damaging an exhaust valve. The latter is unlikely but could plausibly happen. I'll admit it's creative though.
You can make a pulley holder tool fairly easy as well
@@JonnyDIY Yeah but my Honda doesn't have those holes on the harmonic pulley. I was able to rent the specialty tool from Autozone though. $40 deposit
@@arontesfay2520 ohh nice, I tried that, but they didn't have 1 for Toyota
Good way to bend your shit up ...buy a 2x4 pice of maple wood drill holes for socket and for bolt holes on pully, wedge wood on the frame tighten bolts and torqe away safe easy and cheap no risk at all
Yes, thanks that works too 👍🏻
Good one, my cheapo arc welder didn't do its job and this wood tip accounts for the center bolt and two outter pins.
@@JonnyDIY your tip was on back of hot rod magazine in the 70s
Wow no way, thats awesome 😁👍🏻
Id stop the habit of putting tools to sit in the engine bay, you cant find it or end up leaving it by forgetting.
Haha thanks, but I been doing it that way since I was 16 😁👍🏻
>>------------------------> I don't know if your little Macgyver trick would work on an interference engine with 150 foot pound torque.
Why does his trick have to be little?
This seems to me to be just a bit TOO shade tree. As in shady. As in, recipe for disaster.
Can always make a pulley holder out of a 2x4 and a couple bolts
all I see is millions of videos about how to take this type of pulley off. I have a RL and no where on the internet does it have a removal tool or method for mine specific
no pully bolt there no hard to me to get the bolts off the easy way to get that sucker off you use
1' impact and the sock go with it just one east click all that sucker came off no matter how hards '
Just make sure your valves aren't hanging down in the cylinder or you will bend them all to hell!
Yes especially if you have interference engine
Too bad we can't add a poll to know how many people dropped extensions / tools into their cylinders or otherwise destroyed their engines trying this. LOL
I feel like you're asking for the timing chain to jump a tooth with this method
Never had a problem. It works in a pinch. Obviously if you can borrow or get your hands on a pulley holder do that
With piston at full bottom dead centre you could just use the extension bar, brace across top, fasten to engine lift points (to stop bar moving up).
Yorky Chinleyman and punch a hole in the piston..
Sorry Yorky - Do that if you want to damage the piston - bad BAD idea. And the rope trick , while i agree that the rope trick can and does work ,BUT if that rope is inserted unevenly and when the rope gets compressed unevenly it could apply uneven downward pressure to the piston and at worst deform the piston skirt , so if its me doing the job would rather play it safe and make up the pulley holding tool - its by far the safest way.
My LS6 motor takes 240lbs-ft. This ain't gonna do it.
chbrules my 540i calls for 300ft lbs
wow! probably need to fab a pully holder or an impact gun & some loctite
Jonny DIY and its on a engine stand
Just found out there's a flywheel brake us LS engine guys can buy that bolts on to the block and uses teeth to hold the flywheel. It's like $35.
sounds worth it :)
You're out of your mind
Automatic tranies just put in drive while car is off.
Doesn't work, your just spinning the torque converter because its not locked yet. Look up how a torque converter works, theres two couplings with fluid on the inside, they slip or "stall" untill a set rpm where they are hydraulically locked. Then power is transfered to the trans.
Thanks for answering this JD. Peter- if you have a manual trans you can put it in the highest gear and chock the wheels and hold brakes and itll work that way 👍🏻
@@JonnyDIY ya I need to find a way to hold my lexus gs400 pulley while I torque the bolt. I had one come loose a while ago and luckily I noticed before it flew off. I think I'm going to try the serpentine belt loop trick
Yeah with some vice grips. Throw on some medium blue threadlocker for extra peace of mind
no way would a sane person would do this
Ya, think of all the things that could go wrong, like...what?
You are not suppose to reverse the torke.
Once torqued down you just turn loose a lil to get the rope out.
Trust me, the reversed toque amount required to lower the piston is but a FRACTION of the original torque. Ain't nothing coming loose.
Ur mad
80 foot pounds. That is so light.
Its spec on this motor. I know my Toyota truck is like 120! That was fun breaking loose haha.
IMO if you can’t afford the simple tool you shouldn’t own a vehicle :) jus sayin
To each his own, at that time it worked for me. Id just make the tool now 😁👍🏻
what is this simple tool?
@@ajr_e46 pulley holder tool
@@JonnyDIY and if you can’t get that, remove starter motor and jam a large pry bar in between the flywheel case and a tooth on the flywheel.. done