If and when you perform rear suspension work on a 2010 thru 2014 Outback, you may consider replacing the sway bar with the 19mm bar (available for $100 or so) for the 15mm stock bar. I've owned 3 OB's (2 - 2011's, 1 - 2014) and found them far too loose and with a significant sway on windy days. This bar was installed in all three and tightened the cars up tremendously. Your videos are great. Keep 'em coming!
Moog used 15 and 18mm because that's what they use when they supply the big 3 so it's what they have already in house. BTW Eric O would be proud watching you clean that rotor face off. 🤣🤣
I've used Moog parts in the past, including sway bar links and ball joints. They do just fine. For engine parts I'm all about genuine Subaru, but suspension parts, not as much.
I agree on that. I worked at the Subaru factory in Lafayette IN. Most of the engine and electronic parts suburu or denso made. Suspension parts all made by suppliers for the most part. They started using even more suppliers after the sunami in 2011
Happy to see you struggle with the tie rod ends lol I started hitting them with a wire wheel, then grab them with a funky set of vice grips. So far they come off really clean
Lots of 13mm on aftermarket parts, too. Almost convinced most are cheaper than oem, solely because they use odd size hardware that no one else wants! 😆
Robert, years ago Moog used to be good parts, unfortunately I’ve had bad experiences with them my prior car was an Infiniti I 30 basically a Nissan Maxima and I was running their top hats and the first set of rubber actually popped out of the insert so basically the strut was going up and down independently from the body and I figured well maybe just a defective parts long story short my third set still did it I had to jump to KYBs . I called Moog Trying to explain my situation but they never got back to me they said they were going to have an engineer talk to me, just unfortunate..
Since I live in California and we get no rain anymore I’m thinking that my Subaru probably take half the amount at this time if I need to do something which I think I’m getting close to it after looking at my rubber bushings they’re starting to crack a little bit on the back to but she’s a 2013..
LOL. I got revenge for you this past Monday. I replaced struts on a friend's Ford Escape and the replacement top mounting bolts (Escape uses bolts not nuts) that came with the KYB struts had 14mm heads which replaced the original 13mm headed bolts.
See I thought the same thing that torque is critical on the CV nut for that bearing a lot of my buddies at work make fun of me for that just say just use a gun on it but after your experience is Robert I agree!
is there a video just for the tie rod's inner and outer I think I need to do mine and am a little lost it only shakes when I hit the brakes but i have ruled out warped rotors cause the steering wheel goes nuts too
Another great video Robert. Does anyone know of a cheaper tool to press out the bushing than the Snap-On one? Know what cup and adapter sizes these are? I could buy multiple complete control arms with bushings installed for the cost of that special tool..
@@TommyBlazeHD Thanks for the reply. I work on Subarus in my spare time and wound up getting a machine shop to make me a custom cup and press platen. Only cost me $75 and now I can do as many as I need to. The bushings are cheap.
2001 2.5l temp gauge sensor not present on the crossover. Only has the 3-wire sensor (the other is plugged off) and no wire hanging from the harness. Scan tool reads normal pressures but - gauge is pegged at 210. Where else could that sensor be or does the gauge also run off the three wire sensor? The fans turn on and off around 195.
Yes, please @MrSubaru1387 - no space for a bench press or whatever they're called in my garage, but I want to do this myself rather than spending $1300 at the Indie shop.
Nice to see an Ace with the best tools working outside like us mortals....😊
If and when you perform rear suspension work on a 2010 thru 2014 Outback, you may consider replacing the sway bar with the 19mm bar (available for $100 or so) for the 15mm stock bar. I've owned 3 OB's (2 - 2011's, 1 - 2014) and found them far too loose and with a significant sway on windy days. This bar was installed in all three and tightened the cars up tremendously. Your videos are great. Keep 'em coming!
Do you replace the front sway bar too?
@@TommyBlazeHD Nope. The rear is the one that needs help - the factory front bar is fine.
@@bullnukeoldman3794 Thanks man
Was contemplating the whiteline 22mm kit for the rear
The sway bar I mentioned is from Subarupartsonline - Part Number: 20451FG020-20464FG020-x2 and is a kit with the bar and 2 bushings for $99.
Or jump to the 20mm bar 20451VA000
Moog used 15 and 18mm because that's what they use when they supply the big 3 so it's what they have already in house. BTW Eric O would be proud watching you clean that rotor face off. 🤣🤣
I've used Moog parts in the past, including sway bar links and ball joints. They do just fine. For engine parts I'm all about genuine Subaru, but suspension parts, not as much.
I agree on that. I worked at the Subaru factory in Lafayette IN. Most of the engine and electronic parts suburu or denso made. Suspension parts all made by suppliers for the most part. They started using even more suppliers after the sunami in 2011
Thankyou good job
Happy to see you struggle with the tie rod ends lol I started hitting them with a wire wheel, then grab them with a funky set of vice grips. So far they come off really clean
Lots of 13mm on aftermarket parts, too. Almost convinced most are cheaper than oem, solely because they use odd size hardware that no one else wants! 😆
Robert, years ago Moog used to be good parts, unfortunately I’ve had bad experiences with them my prior car was an Infiniti I 30 basically a Nissan Maxima and I was running their top hats and the first set of rubber actually popped out of the insert so basically the strut was going up and down independently from the body and I figured well maybe just a defective parts long story short my third set still did it I had to jump to KYBs . I called Moog Trying to explain my situation but they never got back to me they said they were going to have an engineer talk to me, just unfortunate..
Since I live in California and we get no rain anymore I’m thinking that my Subaru probably take half the amount at this time if I need to do something which I think I’m getting close to it after looking at my rubber bushings they’re starting to crack a little bit on the back to but she’s a 2013..
Great job. Well done. Do you have any video for back suspension? Apreaciate you help. Gracias.
Only rear struts and lateral links.
LOL. I got revenge for you this past Monday. I replaced struts on a friend's Ford Escape and the replacement top mounting bolts (Escape uses bolts not nuts) that came with the KYB struts had 14mm heads which replaced the original 13mm headed bolts.
What, no fluid film? Oh that's right, you're in the south.
See I thought the same thing that torque is critical on the CV nut for that bearing a lot of my buddies at work make fun of me for that just say just use a gun on it but after your experience is Robert I agree!
Great video!
2010 manual outback
KYB or Monroe loaded struts
My issue is that Monroe makes Manual specific and KYB (prefered option) are all the same.
KYB is the OE.
love my KYBs....well worth the extra effort compressing the spring - since my springs were still good
is there a video just for the tie rod's inner and outer I think I need to do mine and am a little lost
it only shakes when I hit the brakes but i have ruled out warped rotors cause the steering wheel goes nuts too
Another great video Robert. Does anyone know of a cheaper tool to press out the bushing than the Snap-On one? Know what cup and adapter sizes these are? I could buy multiple complete control arms with bushings installed for the cost of that special tool..
Then you should just buy the new arms. The bushing press tool is more beneficial for shops that will be replacing bushings on more than just one car.
@@TommyBlazeHD Thanks for the reply. I work on Subarus in my spare time and wound up getting a machine shop to make me a custom cup and press platen. Only cost me $75 and now I can do as many as I need to. The bushings are cheap.
Just purchased a 2012 Subaru outback 3.6 H, I’d like to change the front shocks. What are the best shocks for a smooth comfortable ride?
2001 2.5l temp gauge sensor not present on the crossover. Only has the 3-wire sensor (the other is plugged off) and no wire hanging from the harness. Scan tool reads normal pressures but - gauge is pegged at 210. Where else could that sensor be or does the gauge also run off the three wire sensor? The fans turn on and off around 195.
Wondering if you have an opinion on the Mevotech front control arms and upgraded bushings?
Link to that bushing removal kit?
Yes, please @MrSubaru1387 - no space for a bench press or whatever they're called in my garage, but I want to do this myself rather than spending $1300 at the Indie shop.
Hi there. How do I enter the Milwaukee drawing? Excellent work Sir!
What brand is that pass through ratchet you are using?
Gearwrench
I don't know would it be easier to buy a new control arm or just cutoff the links? I did...😆👌
I just bought a new arm.
Snap on gloves? Looks sturdy.
MAC
@@MrSubaru1387 oops
SUS