2007 Subaru Outback Suspension Noise Repair -EricTheCarGuy
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2013
- Visit me at: www.ericthecarguy.com/
The Subaru came in for a couple of things. A noise in the suspension was one of them. In this video I show how I diagnose and repair a noise in this 2007 Subaru Outback. It wasn't easy to track down but it turned out that the left rear upper strut mount had come apart and was causing a 'clunk'/'squeak' when going over bumps. The replacement of this mount shows how to compress the coil spring on the strut as well as the replacement of the upper mount. Here are some helpful links if you find yourself dealing with this problem.
How to Find Suspension Noises: • How To Find Suspension...
Honda Strut Replacement: • Replacing Honda Front ...
Element Stabilizer Link Replacement (Front): • Front End Noise, 2003 ...
Element Stabilizer Bushing (Rear): • Finding and Repairing ...
Silicone Paste: www.amazon.com/3M-8946-Silcone...
Discussion about this video: www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/...
Stay Dirty
ETCG
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I like this guy, he's real and doesn't pretend to know everything. He also doesn't delete his oversights.
Yeah. Hes fucking professional. Says so on his business card.
I am here again in 2022, world is different now but Eric's videos still awesome. Thx Eric.
Hi Eric,
I have been watching your videos for a few years. I am very grateful and thankful for your educational videos and for sharing your time with everyone. The reason I am writing today is because I have a 2006 outback legacy and have had nothing but a terrible experience with mechanics working on this car. I have decided to take things into my own hands and giving this a shot. I have been a driveway mechanic for over 15 years but never tackled a Subaru and I am finding it to be a bit challenging at times. Here is the list of issues at this time: Currently the sunroof is temperamental, the traction control light comes on with cold starts indicating that the traction control is off. After warming up the car and driving about 10 mins, I can restart the car and traction control light disappears indicating that it is working. The passenger side rear strut makes a strange noise during initial acceleration. The rear diff shoots and shutters the car forward in 1st and 2nd. it's an auto transmission. A tow truck driver decided to tow it on the rear wheels about 7 miles and the next day the car started doing this. So far I drained and filled the transmission fluid and would like to take on changing the front and rear diff fluid but I cannot locate the drain plugs. Any help is greatly appreciated? Thanks
Every time Eric grabs the air tools I say a silent prayer. so far ,so good.
Thank you. I hope to continue that trend.
I love the videos Eric!
I couldn't thank you enough, I'm a 23 year old mechanic in training and you have taught me tons.
We should all pitch in a few bucks so we can get Eric a proper lift! lol
Even though I don't fix my car anymore I found these videos very informative and well documented.
Awesome job, Eric! I have a Outback 2008 with the same issue. Really hard to diagnose. Thanks for this video!
Love these videos and the candid nature ! An easier way to get the bolt through the rear strut, instead of placing the jack under the strut and wiggling it around, do like the service manual shows and use the car's scissor jack upside down between the rear cross arm and body which pushes the arm down in line with the strut. Much easier to move the strut by hand then.
great diagnosis and video on replacing that bushing on the strut. Thanks for the mention of using air tools on spring compressors. 8:58 30 years ago a buddy and I were compressing rear springs on a Olds 442 using wrenches. We had a feeling it would be trouble, but got the job done without incident. That spring unloading at 9:00 min is sobering. Thanks for the info.
These are easily the longest most detailed videos on youtube.
the quality of your videos keep going up and up ! Great job, Eric !
A good friend of mine helped me replace the front strut mount on my Plymouth a few years ago. Same noise issue. And like you said, Safety! Oh, and his name was Eric too!! Best wishes!
Finally! I bet this is the noise I've been searching for! Thank you so much!
These videos are brilliant
Hi Eric, your videos helps me understand troubles with my car. thanks a lot from Lithuania ;)
Great video Eric, thanks for sharing this valuable information and how to fix it. Got a question 2015 outback has the same solution? Thanks in advance 🙏🏼
Good to see ya showing how dangerous spring compression can be. Keep it safe kids!
THANK YOU!!!! I have a 2010 Subaru Outback and she is an old girl and I am saving for a new one. But I heard this noise and wondered if it was the suspension as she isn’t what she used to be suspension wise. This is most likely what it is. Thank you!!!
I love your videos man. It really helps! Take it easy man! Don't stress yourself out.
I've answered this question many times on my ETCG1 channel.
Another helpful video. Maybe next time you could do an 03-05 forester timing belt service. I have one needing to be done if you come down to Texas.
Eric, you are one helluva master craftsman! I did this job and saved mucho moolah! Thanks! I also have the same crappy spring compressor. Lol. Gotta love zip-ties!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!!!! HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM ON A 1996 TOYOTA CAMRY :( WE REPLACED BOTH REAR STRUTS, BUT REGRETFULLY, DIDN'T REPLACE THE MOUNTS....WHICH THEY FAILED SHORTLY AFTER....WE USED THE SPRING COMPRESSOR WITH HAND TOOLS, AND AS ERIC SAID, THAT WAS NO FUN.....
about to pull some of this stuff apart on my outback so this certainly helped.
thanks.
I need to have this done.... Great vid, Thanks...
Eric the car guy I enjoy your videos vary educational. I to have a Subaru. I had a similar if not the same problem. It of course was the rear struts. Also the rear to links. I recommend changing those to.
I greatly enjoyed you speeding up the jacking process. haha
you're the best Eric, thank you very much
Top job mate. Thanks for cutting to the crap and Not putting in too much!
An easier way to put it back on - is when you have the spring compressed, use a few long heavy-duty zip ties to keep it compressed. Then once you have the bottom bolt in, just cut the zip ties and remove.
Great video, appreciate the commentary to safety. We mechanics can do things the average person shouldn't. Knowledge from experience I suppose :)
Yay for an Eric the Car Guy Vid!
Eric, could you do a video on how to replace the fuel injectors on a 2000 Outback legacy? Thanks
good video as always, thank you for the info
as one of your 10 percent! Eric I thank you for doing it the way most of us would have to. as you have also explained before
Eric is the man.
I had the same issue. Only one difference was that noise was coming frome a rear wheel. Sounded like a jet or something like that (Eric's video uploaded earlier on youtube about bearing noise depicted that problem very accurate). So what I did to determine more precisely was while I was driving each time when I had to make a turn (right/left). I listened to changing noise whether it varied or not. Likely it did. So eventually I changed a bearing. A wheel wasn't loose as well
I love speedy EricTheCar video's lol
Eric thanks a lot for your nice clear and very well with good tips videos, regards men 10 plus for your video.
i recently took apart all the suspension of my camry, replacing the rear struts and front strut bearings (the last suspension mob put them in upside down causing all sorts of cool noises that sounded like bad cv's) -- *ALL* with hand tools
we hand tightened the top nuts and fitted the struts to the car, then with the weight of the car on the struts we were able to tighten them without spinning the strut!
Front springs took us 2 sets of spring compressors to remove!
Awesome! I think this is the issue with my beloved Subie.
FTMFW! Helped me change the leaky fuel sending unit housing on my 2003 protege5 recently. Those scews were 50% rust and PB Blaster saved the day.
Great video as always
That's typical actually. Bearings make noise long before they become 'loose'. In fact, the 'loose' bearings often don't make any noise at all. That said check out the video I did on wheel bearing diagnosis for specifics on how to check for a bad wheel bearing.
Thank you for making these videos, my car has most of the same issues LOL and it's an 06
Hi Eric. I have a 2005 Legacy which is making the exact same noise at the moment. Could you share with us the part number of the suspension parts you replaced in this video? Thank you so much!
Link in the description.
Hehe, I liked the sound your shoes made during the high speed play. Was totally like a cartoon.
I did the rear struts on my Legacy last weekend, and lining up the holes was a colossal pain in the ass. I wonder if you could use the spring compressors to make this process easier? I didn't have any on hand, but I would have tried it. That way, you only have to worry about the L to R orientation and not the amount of compression from the floor jack.
See the Element Stabilizer Link Video.
I have a 2004 H6. replaced the bushings on the front and it helped with a small issue. I cant figure out if it is the wheel bearing starting to go or the engine mounts transfer the signature subaru exhaust sound. I think Ill replace the front bearings and if that doesnt solve the problem. you ever have this issue. Hard to describe since it is so subtle. I let you know what happens unless you know what it is. -Oregon-
Eric.
What is your opinión about the use of White lithium grease to apply on bushing on sway bar to eliminate noises.
Had the same problem with a 2007 Forester, well the autolevlling studs were gone with hanging rear end, so I changes them with some Aussie studs from Pedders, and look, the rear end noise disappeared, I know now, thanks to this very nice video, that the upper rubber even them must have been faulty
That's a lot easier than it will be for your older legacy. Good luck with the rear lateral link bolts, I've never found a good way to get those out once they've become seized into the bushings... I end up having to drill them out and cut them off the bolts. Maybe you've found a better way to do it? Either way, I've always put grease on those bolts any time I've done suspension work just so I never have to mess with those again.
I keep a couple of good screw jacks around just for this type of suspension work, they are a bit more work to use compared to a simple hydraulic jack but with practice they are easier and safer to use due to the added ability to go smooth and slowly upwards and downwards to line up parts.
how difficult/where did you find or how did you take out the back interior to be able to get to the rear suspensions
Thx eric,another inquiry. i had like a clunking sound from the left suspension when i shook the steering wheel right and left, thought it was inner tie rod as i could see play in it and feel it by hand, i changed both inner and out,but the clunk is still there and if i put my hand on the inner tierod, i can still feel the vibrations of clunking, seems my rack is the reason. I got electric power steering, no leaks. what might go wrong inside the rack? what should i check as per your advice,thx
Eric -- I have liked a number of your vidz, but this one is problematic. With most cars, check your swaybar bushings and links first for any kind of suspension noise. It's one of the easiest and cheapest places to start diagnosis and repair. If you remove the cargo area decking, you can reach the 2 strut mounting studs, without having to pull the other panels. Subie FSM recommends using the car's scissors jack between the rear subframe mount and the lower control arm to relieve tension to dismount and mount the strut. The FSM (easily found on Internet) stresses that the strut must be installed with the two drain holes oriented toward the outside of the car. I understand your comment about the original spring isolator being more malleable than the new one, but for all the work you have done I'd hate to see the OEM crumble from age and then have to tear everything down again. Condition of the new isolator makes me question the strut mounts overall quality. I paid for this with cheap WRX rear mounts that blew out in 3 months time (Mevotech trash) -- yep I foolishly drank the "cheap parts Kool-Aid"... Overall though, thank you for your straight-forward, well shot, videos.
The strut monts on the Subaru's seem to fail often. Have you had the same experience? My brother had owned Subaru for 8 years and has replaced the top mounts a number of times.
Hey Eric, I use anti-seize on almost every fastener on my cars.. I live in NH so heavily salted roads in the winter. Sheard off fasteners happen more often than i like. I was wondering what your opinion/experience is with it. I don't see you using it much on suspension bits. thanks for all your helpful vids!
Very good work!
If you hear a metallic tapping sound that doesn't happen over every bump in the rear what do you think it is? I've been trying to diagnose it for a while now to no avail. Checked the stabilizer bar, looked at the suspension bushings, checked the interior trim. Any advice?
Silicone paste, 8 oz container, from Amazon.com is currently $20.03. If you go to Amazon.ca - for those of us who live in Canada - the same tin of paste is $75.78. Given that the American and Canadian dollar is about on par right now I challenge anyone to explain how come we Canadians are getting it in the rear like this.
And while I'm here: thanks, Eric, for the great videos. :)
Eric, what is your opinion on putting some grease or silicone paste on that big bolt that joints the strut to the car at the bottom?
Awesome vid, Just picked up a 2000 Legacy GT Limited with the same exact sound in the rear. Off to fix it first thing tommorow morning :)
Hi Eric, I appreciate your videos, thankyou. When jacking the car and taking off the wheel why not shove it under the car, or stack it with the spare on top, just in case the car should roll off the jacks it could save the mechanic. Whats your opinion?
I'm wondering if it might be easier to put the spring compressors on upside down. Then you could leave them on to make it a lot easier and safer to mount the assembly back in the vehicle.
HI ERIC, SORRY A QUESTION OUTSIDE THE SUBJECT, might a front wheel bearing be worn,although when i lift the car and shake the tire left to right,there is no play at all? gr8 videos as usual,wish i lived nearby your garage :)
I have a similar noise but my struts and mounts in the area are all brand new. Besides various squeaks around my rear suspension, the clunking noise is limited to the rear drivers side and only when I am turning.....to the right in particular.
I encountered a similar problem with working on my BMWs, once you got the strut off the tension in the bushes lifted the arm straight up. So to counter that I put blocks of wood on the arm and lodge them somewhere where they won't fly off when you release the shock. Not sure if it's possible here, but it's another method.
About using hand tools, I was fortunate enough to have struts with little notches that lined up with the top mount indentations. No allen key requires and the top mount kept the strut from spinning.
I have a question: My girlfriends `02 Corolla is going to need struts soon. I'll likely have to do it this spring. Are they as much of a pain to line up as the one you did in this video?
what do you think about spraying silicone lube on all suspension parts? will it reduce squeaks and issues?
Eric. My wife's Subaru has the same issue, but I can only find the front strut mount replacements. Who carries the rear strut mounts?
Hey Eric - Have you done a diagnosis and found a remedy for a similar clunking noise in the front suspension?
My wife recently purchased a pre-owned 2014 Outback with
Just a tip for anyone in the rustbelt region, if the rear strut mounts are original on your Subaru, then the nut on the end of the strut will almost surefire be frozen to the spindle. Get yourself a good pass-thru socket set and use a long allen wrench, it'll save you time and frustration. This is even more important if you are concerned about not damaging the strut when reusing it. If you use an impact wrench on that nut and the spindle keeps spinning, you risk damaging the seal like I did, and had to buy a new strut.
Eric always works safe, for ( ME) I always keep the jack under my truck, even with the jackstands ! Please do this ppl , I am sure Eric would agree its just an extra precaution. Stay safe and stay Dirty
Hey there, if could I ask: I`ve noticed in the begining of video (0:43 - 0:46) kind of high pitched noise / squeak - my 2005 outback does it too. Do you know where the noise comes from / what problem it indicates? Cheers and thanks for reply!
I thought the bottom part of the shock would rotate, to allow you to position the bottom bolt hole no matter what way the bolts above were positioned. I guess you have to be more careful with struts. Nice video!
Eric, before loosening the springs, I have had problems lining up the "notches" located at the top of the strut and the mount. Is there an easy way? I just kept turning until I heard it set into place but sometimes it would come out of place with vibrations as I released spring tension. (Toyota Camry)
Really good video.
Great video. Thanks!
Great fix!
why didn't you use the zip ties to hold the spring at the right Length to align the bolt hole?
I almost feel like when you're in there. Might as well replace the fluid in the strut.
Awesome video nonetheless. Great information.
Just curious, why didn't you just jack up the outback using the rear differential. The few times I've had to raise the rear in my Subaru I've always used the flat spot just behind where the rear diff case attaches to the axle.
There's not enough clearance in the wheel well to do that.
Upset????, no shit! the whole reason I searched this was to find out how to access the rear strut mounts. Thanks for the vid anyway, still has some useful info.
Hey Eric
I have a question, that I hope you can answer.
When im driving my car, at around a certain speed (let's say, at 30-35mph) there is a loud 'humming' sound that I think comes from the wheel or atleast in the front of the car. however, when im driving over 35, it fades away. It's really annoying and i hope you understand and know what im trying to explain. :) cheers
Okay Eric, nice vid. One or rather two little things, Always use three springs compressors, they will sit much more safe. And another issue. A metallurgy friend warned me about using hardened tops with your impact wrench, if they are tired, they will explode like glas, spreading a lot of splitter with high speed
thank you Eric .
We tried pretty much every trick. Soaked it in penetrating oil for a couple weeks, used a torch, impact wrench, hammering... They were so seized on they had to be cut off the bolt, even after the bushings were drilled out and torn apart. The metal sleeves didn't come off even after relief cuts were made, we had to literally cut a chunk out and hammer the crap out of it.
And I've done this on multiple subarus. I always put a coating of grease on the bolts to prevent this from happening again.
Do cars sold in the states have to have the 'you turned the ignition on' beep and the 'hey you know the door is open' bong?
I also recently had to do this to the rear struts of my 98 Dodge Neon because the mounts had failed and the strut was crashing over bumps. So much a PITA I decided just to replace the struts as well so I wouldn't have to do the install again later any time soon.
Eric you should have got a piece of 2x6 or something like that gouged out the center a bit so the bottom of the strut could sit in it a bit so it is a little more stable next time you use the floor jack.
How about doing another one where the rattling noise is on the front end undercarriage? Please 🙂 I have had two different Outbacks with this problem (2005 and 2011).
I saw some etcg videos and decided to buy some silicone paste. I thought it would cost 5 bucks a can like most stuff but ebay has it for 27 dollars a can. What's up with the price of silicone stuff? I have always known that silicone lubes for treadmill belts were ridiculously priced so i shouldn't have been surprised. does anybody know if there is a rubber safe synthetic grease? is synthetic grease safe for rubber in general?
Eric, your statement about sticking to OE parts, you should know along with your family and friends that have the same feeling about said parts is that Rockauto.com sell in most cases OE parts that you can get from the dealership but alot cheaper.
Would anyone happen to know the torque specs on the nut that secures the strut mount to the strut? I have an 2007 Outback.