Tom, thanks for the shout out. I’m glad to have contributed a small bit to this excellent project! I noticed that you used a magic marker to detect alignment of the tool grind face to the media. That’s an excellent and almost foolproof means of doing so. Here’s a tip for maximizing its value. Once you’ve worked your way through the perfection of your edge, you’ll want to insure you can easily and reliably return to that edge the next time you need to touch it up. Unless you chip the tool, you won’t likely need to grind it for several more sharpenings. Instead you will likely just need to hone it. If you’ll get in the habit of always marking the edge then pulling or pushing it only once or twice across the surface before checking flatness… you’ll minimize any tendency to create compound bevel on the heel or toe of the cutting surface. If grinding is necessary, rotate the sanding belt by hand a few inches instead of doing so under power. You can quickly and easily detect the scratches across the face without inadvertently compounding the bevel. As I said, this was a most interesting peek into your problem solving process… and I’m glad you found a way of getting the keen edge that we all need to do fine woodworking!
Tom, Sharpening is something that I don't do often enough for the same reason you have, very limited on space. Just loved your video. Getting a new Mark 7 in February and will turn my Mark 510 into a deputy as you have done. Thanks for the instruction and details on the techniques.
Thanks for another great video! If the stand does not have reverse, put the sander on your Shopsmith. The Pro has reverse and the belt will run away from the blade. At the risk of being captain obvious, I think you should quench so you don't remove the temper. You've shamed me in to going back and taking another shot at sharpening on the belt sander.
Thank, glad you liked it and great suggestions. I did keep a water bath near by and gave the steel a dunk whether it needed it or not. I’m sort of torn, no pun intended, about belt direction. The I decided to mimic the Robert Sorby machine video for now.
Hi from Canada Great idea to use the belt sander. I do have one concern. I’ve never been comfortable with the belt direction approaching the tool. I would try to sharpen with the belt running AWAY from the edge. The chance of catching a sharp corner and cutting into the belt frankly concerns me. Especially the skew chisel. It might be ok to grind into the edge on a grinder but that’s on a stone not a cloth backed surface. I made a jig for my drum sander that also is great for dust collection. If I had your email I’d send a picture. The rotation is away from the piece being sanded. Dennis in London Ontario
Thanks Dennis, I agree there is a chance of catching the belt. I did research examples of other folks using various belt sanders to grind/sharpen tools. It was about 50/50 in terms of direction. Sin the jig is semantical I could flip it around, lay the sander horizontal and charpen that way. .
I really hope people aren't actually dissing on marple chisels because they are great and it's just tiresome when you get to steel on wood and with ALL the variables, the idea that you can't get amazing tolerances on wood unless your chisel is $175 is amusing. BTW this is a great video. I learned a lot.
Hi Michael, what I’ve seen people say about these is in relation to Irwin buying out Marples. The claim is that the blue handled chisels were originally great but after the buy out went to pot. Mine are actually stamp “Irwin” on the handle. They have been awesome for me.
My dad bought me my first set of chisels in the ‘80’s. They were Stanley brand and are just a carpenter grade. I’ll put them up against anything else, I’ve tried since, for holding an edge and smooth cutting.
Nice video Tom. I've learned that sharpening lathe tools vs plane irons and the like are two different worlds. I have a Tormek, but don't use it for lathe tools, I use my Shopsmith instead.
Lots of good there ideas, Tom. I'm sure I will use some of those. As they say, "Imitation is the greatest form of flattery"----- or something like that. lol
One note with your grinding method. As you remove material from the edge, you are rotating the tool into the belt, and that will change the angle of the sharpened edge, if you are doing more than just a light 'touch' to it. I'm wondering if you made a jig to work on the table with the 12" sanding operation, that you could hold the tool fixed to the table, then sink the sander into the blade, and endure that you'll never be changing the angle by rotating it into the sander.
Good stuff. I know I struggle with sharpening at times and this looked budget friendly and pretty straight ahead. Two questions when you were working on the plane iron what grit belt did you use and when grinding like this don't you need to 'quench' the metal by dipping it in water? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Berry. I used 100 grit, but I have used 120 or 150 in the past for grinding metal. The rough grit is okay since I knew I would finish grinding on the diamond stones. For the lathe tools I used 240.
Thanks! No, I don't think I'll run it in reverse, I don't need to spray molten metal at the ceiling. 😁 I could lay the sander down horizontally and then flip the fixture and tool around, that would have the same effect but still direct the debris toward the dust chute. I do like standing rather than leaning over, though.
Yes, I do check in on his videos and did see the belt sander sharpening. But I saw this drawer pull thing years ago and have been eager to try it. Was also looking for something a bit simpler and cheaper. The tormek gizmos can add up.
Hey John, it was 100 on the plane iron and chisels cause I knew I would finish the grind on the stones. Lathe chisel my goal is to be able to sharpen on the belt sander and go right to the wood, so I switched to 240. I might even go to 400.
That's a great idea. Recently I was looking through the forum and read about another person building a sharpening station such as yours. He goes into great depth and includes replacing the ball bearings with needle bearings to reduce the vibrations of the sander. I'm considering replacing the bearing just for that reason. Here is his TH-cam channel th-cam.com/video/pqEWuTVpd3o/w-d-xo.html,
Thanks Henry, I have seen Geoffery's videos and posts on his sharpener. I hope not to spend too much or modify my belt sander, I still plan on using it for woodworking too.
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Tom, thanks for the shout out. I’m glad to have contributed a small bit to this excellent project!
I noticed that you used a magic marker to detect alignment of the tool grind face to the media. That’s an excellent and almost foolproof means of doing so. Here’s a tip for maximizing its value.
Once you’ve worked your way through the perfection of your edge, you’ll want to insure you can easily and reliably return to that edge the next time you need to touch it up.
Unless you chip the tool, you won’t likely need to grind it for several more sharpenings. Instead you will likely just need to hone it.
If you’ll get in the habit of always marking the edge then pulling or pushing it only once or twice across the surface before checking flatness… you’ll minimize any tendency to create compound bevel on the heel or toe of the cutting surface.
If grinding is necessary, rotate the sanding belt by hand a few inches instead of doing so under power. You can quickly and easily detect the scratches across the face without inadvertently compounding the bevel.
As I said, this was a most interesting peek into your problem solving process… and I’m glad you found a way of getting the keen edge that we all need to do fine woodworking!
More awesome tips! Thanks again.
Another great video that highlights the versatility of the Shopsmith. Thanks Tom ☝
Thank you Ron. I do love the versatility!
Tom, Sharpening is something that I don't do often enough for the same reason you have, very limited on space. Just loved your video. Getting a new Mark 7 in February and will turn my Mark 510 into a deputy as you have done. Thanks for the instruction and details on the techniques.
Congrats Pete! I think you’ll love it.
Thanks for another great video! If the stand does not have reverse, put the sander on your Shopsmith. The Pro has reverse and the belt will run away from the blade. At the risk of being captain obvious, I think you should quench so you don't remove the temper.
You've shamed me in to going back and taking another shot at sharpening on the belt sander.
Thank, glad you liked it and great suggestions. I did keep a water bath near by and gave the steel a dunk whether it needed it or not. I’m sort of torn, no pun intended, about belt direction. The I decided to mimic the Robert Sorby machine video for now.
Hi from Canada
Great idea to use the belt sander. I do have one concern. I’ve never been comfortable with the belt direction approaching the tool. I would try to sharpen with the belt running AWAY from the edge. The chance of catching a sharp corner and cutting into the belt frankly concerns me. Especially the skew chisel. It might be ok to grind into the edge on a grinder but that’s on a stone not a cloth backed surface.
I made a jig for my drum sander that also is great for dust collection. If I had your email I’d send a picture. The rotation is away from the piece being sanded.
Dennis in London Ontario
Thanks Dennis, I agree there is a chance of catching the belt. I did research examples of other folks using various belt sanders to grind/sharpen tools. It was about 50/50 in terms of direction. Sin the jig is semantical I could flip it around, lay the sander horizontal and charpen that way. .
Thats a great DIY on the cheap sharpening system! Great job!
Thanks Todd!
I really hope people aren't actually dissing on marple chisels because they are great and it's just tiresome when you get to steel on wood and with ALL the variables, the idea that you can't get amazing tolerances on wood unless your chisel is $175 is amusing.
BTW this is a great video. I learned a lot.
Hi Michael, what I’ve seen people say about these is in relation to Irwin buying out Marples. The claim is that the blue handled chisels were originally great but after the buy out went to pot.
Mine are actually stamp “Irwin” on the handle. They have been awesome for me.
My dad bought me my first set of chisels in the ‘80’s. They were Stanley brand and are just a carpenter grade.
I’ll put them up against anything else, I’ve tried since, for holding an edge and smooth cutting.
@@sassafrasvalley1939 I think some people turn tool ownership into a competitive sport. In the process some weird ideas get tossed around.
@@woodshopnerdery indubitably!
Nice video Tom. I've learned that sharpening lathe tools vs plane irons and the like are two different worlds. I have a Tormek, but don't use it for lathe tools, I use my Shopsmith instead.
Thanks for the tip David!
Excellent excellent video Tom. Well done.
I believe you are an engineer by trade? If so, your engineers mind is shining brightly.
Thanks Bill!
Great idea. I use it for circle cutting, but since you haven’t modified it you can revert it it original
Thanks Dave that’s true, I can put the bandsaw fence back together any time.
Good video, I use the sharpening jig with the sanding wheel with good results. Turning chisels only.
Thanks James. I have the sharpening jig, just can't get it to work form me. I see it working well for others, though.
Great stuff Tom! Great info! Must try this!
Thanks Caesar. Glad you liked it!
Another great video. Thank you, Ted
Glad you enjoyed it, Ted!
Lots of good there ideas, Tom. I'm sure I will use some of those. As they say, "Imitation is the greatest form of flattery"----- or something like that. lol
Thanks John! Glad you like it.
Ingenious! Thanks for the great ideas!
You are so welcome! I have a talent for stealing the best ideas!
One note with your grinding method. As you remove material from the edge, you are rotating the tool into the belt, and that will change the angle of the sharpened edge, if you are doing more than just a light 'touch' to it.
I'm wondering if you made a jig to work on the table with the 12" sanding operation, that you could hold the tool fixed to the table, then sink the sander into the blade, and endure that you'll never be changing the angle by rotating it into the sander.
Good stuff. I know I struggle with sharpening at times and this looked budget friendly and pretty straight ahead. Two questions when you were working on the plane iron what grit belt did you use and when grinding like this don't you need to 'quench' the metal by dipping it in water? Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Berry. I used 100 grit, but I have used 120 or 150 in the past for grinding metal. The rough grit is okay since I knew I would finish grinding on the diamond stones. For the lathe tools I used 240.
It’s a Jig-o-mania!
Here’s what you could use-
th-cam.com/video/iKllBHvpZcE/w-d-xo.html
😄😄😄
Excellent approach, Liar. Did you try running the belt sander in reverse?
Thanks! No, I don't think I'll run it in reverse, I don't need to spray molten metal at the ceiling. 😁 I could lay the sander down horizontally and then flip the fixture and tool around, that would have the same effect but still direct the debris toward the dust chute. I do like standing rather than leaning over, though.
Use feeler gauges to set the bar distance from the belt plate
I’m surprised the chisel edge didn’t get really hot while sanding.
Hey Tim, it did get warm and kept a water bath nearby and dipped it now and then. I think the large surface area of the belt helps disapate the heat.
Now the shopsmith has a jig for that. Nice but pricey.
Have you found Geoffrey Baker on YT? He’s refined his belt sander significantly.
Yes, I do check in on his videos and did see the belt sander sharpening. But I saw this drawer pull thing years ago and have been eager to try it. Was also looking for something a bit simpler and cheaper. The tormek gizmos can add up.
@@woodshopnerdery Yup, Goeffrey is amazing, but not simple
Tom,
Thought you upgraded to a PowerPro.
Hey James, yes I bought a Mark 7. I turned my 510 into a Shop Deputy to replace my Power Station. No way I’m letting go of that 510 headstock.
Tom, what grit ru using on the belt?
Nice work!
Hey John, it was 100 on the plane iron and chisels cause I knew I would finish the grind on the stones. Lathe chisel my goal is to be able to sharpen on the belt sander and go right to the wood, so I switched to 240. I might even go to 400.
That's a great idea. Recently I was looking through the forum and read about another person building a sharpening station such as yours. He goes into great depth and includes replacing the ball bearings with needle bearings to reduce the vibrations of the sander. I'm considering replacing the bearing just for that reason. Here is his TH-cam channel th-cam.com/video/pqEWuTVpd3o/w-d-xo.html,
Thanks Henry, I have seen Geoffery's videos and posts on his sharpener. I hope not to spend too much or modify my belt sander, I still plan on using it for woodworking too.
Liar, liar, belt sander on fire!
That’s a good one , Albert!