Wow, the bit about the camphor tablets to inhibit corrosion is amazing. I'm a metalworker by trade, and I didn't know that. That is great advice allround. Thank you!
That chart almost makes choosing plane irons, plain and simple! It would be interesting to add a fourth dimension that stacked the various materials by price… but, a guy might need to stand on his head to read it! LOL Tom, thanks for your totally “Nerd Worthy” research… the presentation was “Applause Worthy”!
Thanks Dave. I did see four axis charts while researching this topic. I believe the fourth axis plotted corrosion resistance. I agree price would be a nice chart axis, but I would insist on somehow including a measurement of labor cost. I know that's really hard to do, but man I need to stop spending 5 hours to save $20.
I just came across your channel today. Finally another woodworking nerd who likes to be super accurate and possess knowledge like I do. I just subscribed.
By golly - either you’ve had good instruction or you’ve watched others and done the improvisations on your own. The planer/shavings segments are well done. Information as well. Enjoyed the shop tour! And as well the info. Man, most excellent!!
Cpm Magnacut is the elite steel in the knife industry these days. One thing to keep in mind with steels used in woodworking is that the simpler the steel the finer the edge will be as a general rule. The reason is the alloy content and the carbide volume in the steel. Steels with high carbide volume will not have as fine of a cutting edge as a lower alloy steel such as O1 or A2. The type of carbides are important as well. High vanadium steels do not offer good performance for woodworking tools because the edges they produce are very coarse and aggressive. Not suited for push cutting. They offer wear resistance and do well with slicing. The best steel for a wood working plane in my opinion is the steel that is the hardest and has a lower carbide volume. A2 is hard to beat. It offers a fine edge with slightly more carbides than O1 and is easy to sharpen. I am curious what the alloy content of the pm-v11 is and what other steel it best compares to. I guess I have some research to do! Great video!
Great info, thanks for posting. If I recall correctly the PM in CPM is Powder Metalurgy, which is a process to control carbide migration during forming of the alloy. This helps keep this smaller crystal sizes that at so important for keeness. PM-v11 is also powder metallurgy. Also I the high valladium alloys fall under the HSS category, great for power tools but to your point not great for hand tools.
@@woodshopnerdery In a nutshell, yes. The powdered metallurgy process allows a much higher alloy content than what is possible in a sintered steel. In sintered steel, the alloys tend to clump up and are not evenly distributed. PM steel allows for a much higher carbide volume in the steel and it’s more evenly distributed. It’s kind of like aggregate in concrete where carbides are represented by the aggregate in the concrete. Those carbides are much harder than the simple steel that holds them in the matrix. Vanadium carbides for example are around 70hrc. The steel itself may only be hardened to 59-61hrc but you have to be able to cut those carbides down with a diamond stone or similarly hard abrasive. What happens when you try to sharpen these high carbide steels with a soft stone is that you simply tear the carbides out of the steel and never fully sharpen the blade. A simple steel such as a Japanese white steel which is heat treated to a high hardness will exhibit high edge stability and edge holding equivalent to a softer high carbide steel such as CPM-3V. In plane blades that are doing a lot of push cutting this is preferable over a high toughness steel such as 3V. 3V has incredible toughness and much better edge holding than A2 but A2 takes a finer edge and is much easier to sharpen. 3V makes an excellent steel for chisels and other tools where toughness is more important. The finer/cleaner the cut the harder/simpler steel wins! I can’t find any detailed information about the chemistry of PM-V11 but it sounds like it’s well received and offers a fantastic blend of attributes.
Good info! Thanks for sharing. I love my o-1 hock irons that I use on 2 vintage stanley's. I might give PMV 11 a chance next time I want to try a modern iron. I wonder if stropping with diamond paste with make quicker work of stropping that hard metal?
Thank you! I've heard great things about Hock Irons. My father-in-law swears by them. I should give them a try as some point. And great suggestion I have been thinking of switching to diamond paste. I carefully selected a compound that would be equivalent to a 4000 waterstone. But man is it waxy. I was thinking the diamond paste might avoid the waxy build up and, as you pointed out, probably cut a little easier.
I've ordered some from otherwise reputable vintage tool dealers, only to have them ground out of square. Idk why I keep putting off getting that Hock chip breaker..
I don’t trust manufacturer data. There is surely some skulduggery in that chart. I’ve used PMV-11 and 01 (old and new) and Lie Nielsen’s Cryo A2. Leads me to doubt that yellow triangle very much. The LN A2 is great. O1 is fine too. I’ll concede the HSS is a massive pain to sharpen comparatively.
Tom- do u realise that there is a big issue with Veritas custom planes concerning the drift with the capping iron when tightening & you may have solved it! ……
When quality and price are considered as the basis of a purchase in planes and irons in today’s market I don’t think you can find a better combination than the Veritas line. I especially like the custom line of planes and the ability to swap out blades, knobs and totes, not to mention the frog and add-on fences. Veritas is a winner in my mind. 🇨🇦👨🦳👍when ordering the iron and cap iron combination did Veritas specifically say that they would fit those two planes. Fitting to a Chinese (Taytool) or a recently manufactured Stanley might not be listed. I wonder if the older versions of the Stanley would be more suitable for the upgrade as long as the mouth is sized to take a thicker blade and cap iron combo. As far as a Chinese plane, they are not exact copies of an old Stanley.
Please check my Community tab for answers to common questions and the latest information! - th-cam.com/users/woodshopnerderycommunity
Thanks for the chart. It took hours of searching and maybe getting the information I needed and delivered it in 5 seconds.
Wow, the bit about the camphor tablets to inhibit corrosion is amazing. I'm a metalworker by trade, and I didn't know that. That is great advice allround. Thank you!
Love your "empirical tinkering" to get things to work right. Thanks, Tom.
Thanks Michael.
That chart almost makes choosing plane irons, plain and simple! It would be interesting to add a fourth dimension that stacked the various materials by price… but, a guy might need to stand on his head to read it! LOL
Tom, thanks for your totally “Nerd Worthy” research… the presentation was “Applause Worthy”!
Thanks Dave. I did see four axis charts while researching this topic. I believe the fourth axis plotted corrosion resistance. I agree price would be a nice chart axis, but I would insist on somehow including a measurement of labor cost. I know that's really hard to do, but man I need to stop spending 5 hours to save $20.
Tom, excellent, thoughtful work as usual!
Thank you John!
I just came across your channel today. Finally another woodworking nerd who likes to be super accurate and possess knowledge like I do. I just subscribed.
Thanks Gary, I'll check out your channel when I get a chance.
Great video. Logically, thoughtfully and thoroughly laid out. Well done Tom.
Thanks Bill. I appreciate it!
I’ve got the PMV 11 on my 4 ½ smoother and I find the same and I like it!
Awesome, thanks for letting me know. It good verification that I’m on a good path,
By golly - either you’ve had good instruction or you’ve watched others and done the improvisations on your own. The planer/shavings segments are well done. Information as well.
Enjoyed the shop tour!
And as well the info.
Man, most excellent!!
Thanks John! No training just trying out new things to keep it fresh.
Very informative video Tom!
Thanks Albert!
Great video. I think that I have a lot more to learn about planes. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mike, I’m learning too. I find it quite rewarding.
Lots of very helpful information. Thank you.
Thanks John glad you liked it.
Good video Tom. Thanks
Thanks Chris.
Cpm Magnacut is the elite steel in the knife industry these days. One thing to keep in mind with steels used in woodworking is that the simpler the steel the finer the edge will be as a general rule. The reason is the alloy content and the carbide volume in the steel. Steels with high carbide volume will not have as fine of a cutting edge as a lower alloy steel such as O1 or A2. The type of carbides are important as well. High vanadium steels do not offer good performance for woodworking tools because the edges they produce are very coarse and aggressive. Not suited for push cutting. They offer wear resistance and do well with slicing. The best steel for a wood working plane in my opinion is the steel that is the hardest and has a lower carbide volume. A2 is hard to beat. It offers a fine edge with slightly more carbides than O1 and is easy to sharpen. I am curious what the alloy content of the pm-v11 is and what other steel it best compares to. I guess I have some research to do! Great video!
Great info, thanks for posting. If I recall correctly the PM in CPM is Powder Metalurgy, which is a process to control carbide migration during forming of the alloy. This helps keep this smaller crystal sizes that at so important for keeness. PM-v11 is also powder metallurgy.
Also I the high valladium alloys fall under the HSS category, great for power tools but to your point not great for hand tools.
@@woodshopnerdery In a nutshell, yes. The powdered metallurgy process allows a much higher alloy content than what is possible in a sintered steel. In sintered steel, the alloys tend to clump up and are not evenly distributed. PM steel allows for a much higher carbide volume in the steel and it’s more evenly distributed. It’s kind of like aggregate in concrete where carbides are represented by the aggregate in the concrete. Those carbides are much harder than the simple steel that holds them in the matrix. Vanadium carbides for example are around 70hrc. The steel itself may only be hardened to 59-61hrc but you have to be able to cut those carbides down with a diamond stone or similarly hard abrasive. What happens when you try to sharpen these high carbide steels with a soft stone is that you simply tear the carbides out of the steel and never fully sharpen the blade. A simple steel such as a Japanese white steel which is heat treated to a high hardness will exhibit high edge stability and edge holding equivalent to a softer high carbide steel such as CPM-3V. In plane blades that are doing a lot of push cutting this is preferable over a high toughness steel such as 3V. 3V has incredible toughness and much better edge holding than A2 but A2 takes a finer edge and is much easier to sharpen. 3V makes an excellent steel for chisels and other tools where toughness is more important. The finer/cleaner the cut the harder/simpler steel wins! I can’t find any detailed information about the chemistry of PM-V11 but it sounds like it’s well received and offers a fantastic blend of attributes.
Good info! Thanks for sharing. I love my o-1 hock irons that I use on 2 vintage stanley's. I might give PMV 11 a chance next time I want to try a modern iron. I wonder if stropping with diamond paste with make quicker work of stropping that hard metal?
Thank you! I've heard great things about Hock Irons. My father-in-law swears by them. I should give them a try as some point. And great suggestion I have been thinking of switching to diamond paste. I carefully selected a compound that would be equivalent to a 4000 waterstone. But man is it waxy. I was thinking the diamond paste might avoid the waxy build up and, as you pointed out, probably cut a little easier.
If nothing else, I'd love to upgrade my chip breakers in my Stanleys. The old bent chip breakers are horrible. 🙄
I’m learning that a matching chip breaker and iron has some advantages. But even the. There may be some filing to fit it up.
I've ordered some from otherwise reputable vintage tool dealers, only to have them ground out of square. Idk why I keep putting off getting that Hock chip breaker..
@@aubydauby I’ve done that dozens of times. It’s amazing how expensive cheap tools can be.
I don’t trust manufacturer data. There is surely some skulduggery in that chart. I’ve used PMV-11 and 01 (old and new) and Lie Nielsen’s Cryo A2. Leads me to doubt that yellow triangle very much. The LN A2 is great. O1 is fine too. I’ll concede the HSS is a massive pain to sharpen comparatively.
Tom- do u realise that there is a big issue with Veritas custom planes concerning the drift with the capping iron when tightening & you may have solved it! ……
When quality and price are considered as the basis of a purchase in planes and irons in today’s market I don’t think you can find a better combination than the Veritas line. I especially like the custom line of planes and the ability to swap out blades, knobs and totes, not to mention the frog and add-on fences. Veritas is a winner in my mind. 🇨🇦👨🦳👍when ordering the iron and cap iron combination did Veritas specifically say that they would fit those two planes. Fitting to a Chinese (Taytool) or a recently manufactured Stanley might not be listed. I wonder if the older versions of the Stanley would be more suitable for the upgrade as long as the mouth is sized to take a thicker blade and cap iron combo. As far as a Chinese plane, they are not exact copies of an old Stanley.