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Thanks for the info on this, Tom. After using my jointer for the first time yesterday, I found the high speed output was very warm to the touch. I'm curious, did you replace just the bearings within the headstock, or did you buy the replacement shafts, etc. from Shopsmith? If you did replace just the bearings, do you have a source for them? Appreciate it, and have already subscribed to your new TWT channel!

Yes! I was waiting for this exact project! It'll definitely very helpful while I continue to analyze Woody Hyezmar's projects which you get in his Woodworking Bible by go’ogling it and hoping it’s still available.

Well Tom, your videos live on - I just used one to explain how the Shopsmith SPT tool interchangeability works. Thanks, Charlie in Central Ohio

I got my first Shopsmith back in the 70's from a local dealer when they still had dealers. I was in 2 bedroom 1st floor apartment and used the Shopsmith in second bedroom. There's no way I could have put in multiple tools. So, it was only solution. And, I also had the jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, etc. You didn't even mention comparing all the accessory tools that run off the Shopsmith that take advantage of good motor and easy variable speed.

Ty Sir

The lathe and table saw could be slightly out preformed by stand alone's but the boring machine and drill press no way. How many drill press do you see with variable speed much less a two post mount that does not let the table rotate out from under it and the table can be tilted as well as the fence and miter gauge can be locked to it to drill compound angles. I made a nice little bar stool out of some old 2x4's I had lying around. the leds are 1.5 in square and they taper in from about a foot wide at the bottom to 6 inches at the top. I used the tilt on the table and my mortising set to cut the mortise for the tenons all at the same angle I needed without trying to place a wedge under my work. It is the strongest little stool to and not one nail in it anyplace. The disk sander is way better than anything you will find elsewhere. You can make a compound cut on the saw not change anything but to the disk sander and now sand that exact angle. Not a close angle but the same exact. Then the table saw other than having to bevel the table and not the blade is a really great saw. I like the height of the table saw too as I have a bad back and it kills me to lean over all day. My only complaint about the lathe is it needs to turn down a bit slower for larger object. But replacing all these machines would be very expensive at retail. Just look at SS is a victim of their own success. You can pick up a decent 510 or 520 with a jointer and bandsaw for less than $800. I love theses machines!

I love how you and Scott came in like adults and use facts and helpful information as your weapon of choice. You've both still nuked that dork butnit was classy.

Can you imagine picking John Malecki as a person you watch and listen to. I guess people like Logan Paul too.

You made a video that no one responded to this video, so you must be right….. well you have a few thousand followers and most are Shopsmith types, so you don’t have a sample size of anything. Second, your test is bullshit and specifically tailored part to be one woodworking challenge that caters to the Shopsmith, and do the task in a specific order that favors the Shopsmith.. First, I don’t know any wood workers that would sand the end of the board with 3 different grits right off the table saw. All those operations were unnecessary and added to pad the shopsmith advantage. You also needed to own 2 additional sanding disks which is not standard from shopsmith. You then sequence changes from a regular saw blade to a dado stack to use the advantage of the shopsmith as that can be a pain in a table saw. If you allowed someone to make the part with other tools in the order that makes sense for their tools, this would not be a challange. Typical set up would be with a table saw, router table, chop saw, drill press or dowel jig with and skip the sanding operation you tossed to pad your result. Cut to length with chop saw, chop saw has clean enough edge for joint. You could probably set up the router table to do both your dado and the corner detail with the same setup with some pre-planning and minor changes, but the table saw can be set up for a dado if you really need it that way as you cross cut with a chop saw and it’s sitting there. Boring is done with a simple hundred dollar dowel jig or you can use a different method that uses your woodworking style and not a weird feature of the Shopsmith that no one uses. I can set up a similar challenge for you with my tools that you would have a really hard time keeping up as well on that Shopsmith and be anything close to safe. I love my shopsmith, but i have had to swap out a lot of the tools to make the work 8 do fast and safe after to many close calls on the shopsmith.

Love it and love and your channel.

I do not even see why this was a question. Ask yourself this. In 49 years is the wen going to be alive. Not a chance the shopsmith is a solid built to last planer and it has very little snipe. The motors are industrial duty. I myself would build or buy a stand for the shopsmith and put a industrial motor on it like the stand alones. Harbor freight 150 bucks you could get a 3hp motor that would be over twice as strong as the mark 5. This is this reason I am in favor of the free stand shopsmith. If you get the shopsmith stand you can even put shopsmith casters on it. The only way I would chose a benchtop of any kind over it is if I needed it to be portable. But I really do not like it taking up my jointers spot. I have a couple of mark 5s and my main one is always a table saw and jointer combo. I am kicking around the idea of making a sliding table on it as I prefer a sled over a chop saw. But I did just score me a stand alone ss planer today for $250. But I already know a lot about them as my old man has had one since the 80s. I hate to think how many boards went through it over the years.

I keep buying worx tools because they seem to be descent and more affordable than other brands.

But you have a shit table saw that can’t cut angle cuts really safely and quickly….and can’t work with a proper out feed table because you adjust the table height… and it’s just way to high…. And a lathe that is mounted way to low. And the horizontal bore machine is not very useful given a dowel jig is cheap. And the separate tools will save you so much time on setups. Shopsmith is great for a 1 car garage….. And your comment on the Detailed shape routing is way off….. Shopsmith is actually better as shaping blades work better smiling slower with more torque. It’s a great Drillpress for few hundred bucks used which is the only thing I still use it for after replacing every other function on the tool with cheap replacements that work better. Contractor saw in an assembly table is better. Screw the horizontal bore. Shaper/router better in your assembly table as well. Anyone who likes a lathe will prefer a real one with indexing, a chuck that is vacuum compatible, so shopsmith is just an in case solution. Tool rest sucks. Drill press makes sense if you mount it to wall as that is the only thing it really is good at so you toss the base and loose all the other functions because the shopsmith is to big as only a drill press with the stand. You will figure this all out in time.

Changes everything 60 years ago……

I have bought my shop smith in the 70th and it is still working and I am still happy with it

Nice video, impecable reasoning. Cosman does indeed flatten the iron, or at least the tip, before polishing with the ruler trick. I do the same both for plane irons and spokeshave irons: first flattening, the tip or more, and then the ruler trick on the tip. It's indeed pointless to go directly to the ruler trick before at least examining the iron flatness near the tip.

4:00 'étagère' is French for bookcase

Came to this channel 9 months too late. Thanks for all the info!

that AirNow ppm meter detector is the weak point in your analysis. It is an inaccurate and unreliable device to base your assumptions and conclusions on.

Which way does the blade fit, is it edge down or up? Thanks

I have an old vii, I just got it running today and it works great.

You could reach out to taylor tools to see if that is a normal iron. I would not expect a new iron to be that bad. Taylor tools is a relatively small company that is family owned and has a good reputation for selling good quality tools at affordable prices. I have personally bought many items from them and have been very happy with most of them. Nice job on staying with the flattening process.

what's that on the table you're working on with the drill press??

I can't figure out the measurements for the upright part, can you help me? I think it's 140mm long but can´t figure out the rest of the measurements from the plans.

Yep he is an ADHD clown......I seen him do the same thing with a radial arm saw...tool knowledge and reading the manual...= safety

Dunno about adding bracing to that bench, bro. Silk purse from a sow's ear and all that. I get the space limitations, but maybe you should look at building a Moravian or something similar. Way more stability and you can easily break it down and pile it against a wall when it gets in the way. About all I'd use that bench for is piling crap on. Nice job on getting the vise up and running tho. A suggestion - instead of using the plastic straw for a chain tensioner, se if you can snag an idler wheel from a bicycle rear derailleur and screw that in there instead.

I recently just learned Harbor Freight sold these clamps and am very grateful you did this comparison. I only wish someone nearby sold the US made clamps so I could do this comparison myself. So thank you for doing it for me! Very well done.

i bought my mark 5 for 40 bucks at estate auction 2 years ago and i love it

How do you drive the joiner on the right side of the headstock ? There is no lower spindle to drive it.

This is please 2d drawing? What do you thing about Plasticity 3D? Is quite cheap, much cheaper then commercial giants.. Learning could be more, but can found some flaws in construction.. And create some visualisation four customer (or yourself). Thank you for video..

Great video. Thank you.

Great demonstration Mr.. Very important infos I would like have seen years ago 😂. It can be really hard to learn, if you just see videos where sharpening always goes a perfect way. Thanks a lot

It's crazy how much they want for these programs. Who is buying these? I'm a retiree, and don't have that kind of money. Plus, I could never rectify that cost, for what I do. Thank you for the video.

Excellent commentary about the fool who made the "unsafe" video. The only thing I think you should have added is a statement about how stupid the guy was to try and make a miter cut with the blade fully exposed on the side of the table and with the saw guard missing. How can anyone take that guy seriously?

I recently inherited such a vise from Zyliss, but unfortunately somebody threw away a few parts... The drill stand and the thing with the 4 bars to use the set a regular vise. 😢 The plastic parts are missing as well, but I'll manage to 3D print them now I know where to place and how to use them. I guess I have to create the missing parts somehow to make full use of the set. Thanks for the very informative video, so I know now how to use it, as there came no manual with it.

Well done. I bought my Shopsmith Mark 5 brand new with the Shopsmith bandsaw in 1963 (brown colors) for $315.00 with the 240v Motor! That was a big purchase for me back then. Still using it today.

As some one trying decide between used or new i love this content. Thanks man.

Even though I only found you now after you're done with this channel, I am really happy to have found it. This is a great library for me to watch through over time, and it is refreshing that you're not an ad for festool and woodpecker.

I am not a SS hater but you do need to understand its limitations if you want to buy one. Most guys that don’t like them are pretty serious about their woodworking and want heavier machines made with cast iron and want larger capacities for medium to larger projects. The SS lends it self to small spaces and mostly smaller projects. You could do some big projects on the SS but not as easily. You can get a SS used for not much money which could be a good bargain depending on what you are building. A new machine is very expensive for what you get. I can’t see the value as being in the new machine unless you just don’t have space. If you have space separates are a better option. I have used a SS and have separate machines. You can get good new cast iron separate machines for the cost of a new SS with some needed options such as the jointer and bandsaw. You will need more space but not as much as you think. If you love the SS use it and have fun. I have bought a number of great old cast iron machines at low prices which is another good option if you have some extra room. A combination of a used SS with some older separates would work too. Happy cutting.

Carob makes the HSS cutters. Get them new and they are razor sharp. Those are shaper cutters you have.

How do you "lose" your miter gauge? I was taking my gauge for a walk in the park and the leash broke and it ran over a hill.

I don’t trust manufacturer data. There is surely some skulduggery in that chart. I’ve used PMV-11 and 01 (old and new) and Lie Nielsen’s Cryo A2. Leads me to doubt that yellow triangle very much. The LN A2 is great. O1 is fine too. I’ll concede the HSS is a massive pain to sharpen comparatively.

Spend a dollar to save a penny. If you are expecting a high quality blade from many of these vendors selling planes and blades from India and China, you might be wasting your hard earned dollar unless you enjoy sharpening more than woodworking.🥴

When quality and price are considered as the basis of a purchase in planes and irons in today’s market I don’t think you can find a better combination than the Veritas line. I especially like the custom line of planes and the ability to swap out blades, knobs and totes, not to mention the frog and add-on fences. Veritas is a winner in my mind. 🇨🇦👨‍🦳👍when ordering the iron and cap iron combination did Veritas specifically say that they would fit those two planes. Fitting to a Chinese (Taytool) or a recently manufactured Stanley might not be listed. I wonder if the older versions of the Stanley would be more suitable for the upgrade as long as the mouth is sized to take a thicker blade and cap iron combo. As far as a Chinese plane, they are not exact copies of an old Stanley.

There’s no way I’m spending 4 hours on a brand new blade. I’d send it back and move on with my life

Not meaning any disrespect or hate; wouldn't it be easier to zero your collar, then zero your caliper, measure 4.5mm up on your caliper and adjust collar accordingly?

I think the bottom line is belt sander into the bevel vs away from the bevel, if you practice either method long enough you will get proficient at it. Personally, I've wrecked more than a few belts trying into the bevel, yet I've seen many knife makers who make it look easy. For me, I have my 8" grinder with a soft wheel at slow speeds, with a jig, spinning into the bevel for chisels and plane irons. As for knives, I have a jig to hold the knife with the blade away (trailing) from the direction of the belt.

Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

Where is Shop smith’s made? & for that matter Grizzly?

Tom- do u realise that there is a big issue with Veritas custom planes concerning the drift with the capping iron when tightening & you may have solved it! ……