▼EXPAND FOR TOOL LINKS and INFO▼ Watch Next = This Changes Table Saws Forever - th-cam.com/video/FwQ43CLtHDg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=SkQs4p98EKwISBrT 🛠 Tools in this Video Chisel Sharpening System - lddy.no/1isag Chisel Back Preparation Kit - lddy.no/1isah 5-Piece Narex Richter Chisel Box Set - lddy.no/1isai 5-Piece Narex Richter Chisel Set (No Box) - lddy.no/1isaj 3-Piece Narex Richter Chisel Set - lddy.no/1isak Budget 3-Piece Irwin Chisel Set - amzn.to/3TgyrF0 WEN Drill Press - amzn.to/46Yg3UH Drill Press Fence - lddy.no/1isap Chisel Sharpening Jig Plans and Manual - bit.ly/freejigplans Psalm 71 T-Shirt I'm Wearing - bit.ly/46peLBH The full list of tools and supplies I recommend can be found on my website: www.731woodworks.com/recommended-tools Join the TUBAFOUR NATION through Patreon to get access to exclusive member only behind the scenes videos, member only livestreams, exclusive discounts, and other cool member only perks! www.patreon.com/731woodworks If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I will receive a commission on qualifying purchases. Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe to our email Newsletter to get new content alerts, sales, and more! mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Easy to Follow Build Plans - www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
Got the jig from Taylor and built the wooden part in about 30 min. It is a fantastic system. I have always hated to sharpen my chisels in the past, now it is a breeze!!!
BLUF I am truly impressed. I put mine in my Jet drill press (which is hardly setup accurately I threw it together like everything I do). I also threw the instructions away so I completely winged the jig dimensions based on watching this video. I had a 3/4” Bench chisel that was badly damaged by my teenager, looked like he chiseled through a tenpenny nail. I was able to get a new edge and then sharpen it to a very acceptable standard in literally one minute. I am having a very hard time understanding the complaints on this product. I can’t believe how good it is for the price.
Hey Mr. Outlaw, I started my woodworking journey about a year ago as something to do while I was finishing up school! My grandfather was a woodworker, and so was his father. One of my favorite things to do with him, is relax and watch a few of your videos for an hour. I must say, we love your work, videos, and style. I just bought the DW735 thanks to your review!! I hope all is well for you and Ms. 731, and thank you for helping me straighten my relationship with my Grandpa. -PB&J Woodworks
I am from over the pond in England. I bought this and some other bit from Taylor Tools, who are very good company. Like the jig very much. Take your time making the jig and you won't have a problem . Got the tormek system ,but I prefer the Taylor Tools system. 👍 Love your videos 👍👍
Taylor Tools is a great small business and I have purchased many products from them. Good idea and same procedure as using the Worksharp 3000. (Got a used one for $100). All chisels do not have the same bevel angle. The Worksharp machine has facility to hold the chisel solid at any angle you desire. The system you demonstrated should be adequate for quick touch up type shop use for whatever angle you built the jig for. The big difference that stands out to me is having to build a single angle jig, setup the drill press, etc. The Worksharp is a very small footprint machine that sets at the ready on my workbench out of the way.
@@TaylorToolworks Thanks for you response. I agree and I use the 3M cubitron sanding disks on my Workshop 3000. The ability to select multiple a sharping angles on the Workshop is a big plus for me. I have different purpose built chisels and hence several different angles to sharpen.
I want to thank you for the information and have been eyeballing this item. I ordered two of them because i like flexibility and not stuck to singular line of failure.
I snagged this kit a couple of weeks ago , no issues ,I give the Taylor’s. 10 . The jig took 15 minutes ,my chisels are 10 x shaper than I could have done this by hand . I don’t have time to play whetstone game nor do I care to . I don’t build nukes so if the angle is 24 degrees instead of 25 ,that’s ok . Shipping was 4 days and everything was completed on line . Cheers
Hey Santa!!! For what I do in the workshop, I really don't need expensive chisels. Been using a set the El Chipo bargain chisels for 15 years. Sharpen/clean them 2x per year. now that task may only take an hour instead of an evening.
So me and my friends have been experimenting with one of these and it's certainly useful for establishing primaries and secondaries in place of a bench grinder. However, be very, very wary using it to lap ANY blades if you invest. Repeated hand lapping on leather can dub backs anyway but doing it on a high speed leather-backed disc dubbed blades in just a few seconds, even sans compound. This is largely down to the physical compression of the leather. We've tested it on a few beater chisels and found the same thing each time. Lapping with the abrasive films is better but not immune. The films compress too (albeit on a considerably smaller scale which will be negligible to some) and the effect is hastened by a disc spinning at such high speed. You can mitigate this by using very light pressure and lapping on the pull only. This all paired with the intrinsic lengthways concavity of a typical Western chisel means their respective geometries do not play nice together. It can grind a chisel out of square if you're not careful also. They really are belly-making machines unless you employ an incredibly deft touch. Fine for rough work but leather lapping done in this way kills any chisels ability to achieve proper surface registration for clean parring which we want for accurate joinery. In fact, I think the light reflection on your chisel at 6:40 shows that the front has been rounded. Might be worth taking a trusted engineers square to that foremost 10mm only, hold it up to the light and see if you can see any rocking indicative of a fulcrum. All of our testing so far has had us reach an unfortunate but unanimous verdict RE certain uses of the kit. We all agree with Charlesworth on this one, in that we're yet to encounter an abrasive sheet method that doesn't induce any dubbing at all. Funnily enough, we theorise that the mild deflection of the disc here actually reduces the dubbing effect. That said, YMMV and I hope that it does. I'm always very keen to be proven wrong in my pursuit of learning more.
Hi Matt. I bought this system a couple of months ago. And, yeah, it works great. I also bought a set of Narex chisels without handles. Next, I have to make some handles, without having a lathe.
If you own a corded drill you can easily make it into a small lathe with a few simple jigs. I’ve seen multiple channels demonstrate it for making small wooden parts such as handles for knives and chess pieces.
I bought this after Stumpy showed it, and it is the best ever and I have a Tomek and Worksharp. This is easy and repeatable. I will suggest you take a level to your table and the top of you press to be sure you are square to each other. I had a time my chisel was getting an angled end, turns out the table was tilted down enough to cause it.
I like Ashley Iles chisels. I've got the entire set and an "extreme" sharpening station from Workship Heaven in the UK. Note: If you want Ashley Iles chisels, you order and you wait a couple of months, until they're made. They're all hand-made. Merry Christmas. 😃
Thanks Matt! I've been looking for a fool proof easy to use chisel sharpener.. All my chisels are a mess because I was procrastinating on getting anything to use. I'm actually buying this right now. Christmas gift to myself!
Better. I had the worksharp system and it NEVER ended up being square. Went back to Rockler and returned it for another and that had the same issue. Blades are always out of square despite all the adjustments being addressed on the ramp bottom side. This. I got two of the kits....one for repairing and one for maintenance on units just needing a tuneup. Stupid simple.
An intriguing system, Matt, and it's clear that it fixed that damaged chisel quickly. However, something I noticed during the video: the disk deflected as you pushed the chisel into it using the jig as well as when you did the stropping. I'm wondering how much of a difference, if any, that might make if you later use the more traditional system of a stone against a flat work surface. If precision is critical, and I know it is for many woodworkers, then you might have to work a long time to correct for that error.
I made one using old circular saw blades. They deflect less ... and I could probably do the sharpening in my circular saw! Be sure to grind the teeth off or at least run the blades backwards.
731Matt, chisels are a beast. As always, you have your finger on the pulse of the evolution of tools and jigs to help us make our live so much easier. Thank you‼️ Much L🫶🏻VE, RESPECT, a Very Merry Christmas, and God bless Y🫵🏻U and Miss Amy‼️🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🎅🏻🧑🏻🎄🦌🦌🦌🎄🎁
This is a good process! I have the series of stones “ old school “ way! I have the power wet stone in the event you have a severely damaged chisel! But this system looks great for general maintenance. 👍
Hey Matt. I also got this system about a month ago. Absolutely love it. Like in Mikes video, I had an old chisel that looked more like a screwdriver. Had it shaving sharp in about 5 minutes. Was hoping you would do a review on it .
I just got my stuff from that mystery box from Taylor tool works bunch of junk 3 rulers 2 marking pens I giant strop and I gues it's some type of clamp
Thanks for making this video. I'm in the process of setting up a small shop and will be looking to incorporate this system. Prayers for a Blessed Christmas and New Year.
Thanks for bringing this to my attention. At some point, I will buy it. If I had known it was coming out, I wouldn't have bought a set of stones and the device to hold the chisel at an angle. I would have even paid less for this.
Shiny is more than just a pretty appearance. If it’s a flawless mirror shine, that means there are no deeper grooves in either the bevel surface or the back surface, and that means a smooth edge, translating to a smooth surface on the wood. Grooves in the metal finish result in a serrated edge, which makes a serrated or grooved surface on the wood.
I have several Taylor measuring and marking tools and they're great. This jig, though, seems not so great. First, I can't imagine a woodworker regardless of how clumsy, having a chisel or plane blade get as beat up as your demo. Second, the same results can be had with any Alox sand paper, a piece of float glass, and an $80 Veritas sharpening jig which will also sharpen a plane blade. My own setup is simply 2 waterstones, 600 and 8000 and the Veritas. The Veritas is reserved for new or damaged blades as is the 600 grit stone. All that's needed for regular use is the 8000 to touch-up the micro bevel free hand, an essential skill easily learned. All this recent, internet inspired selling of 4 or 5 progressive grit stones, diamond or others is nonsense. Do you want to cut paper and hair or trim a joint? All my work going on 50 years is with hand tools. I have one of the $140 Japanese chisels I imported just out of curiosity and it's great. I continue to use on a daily basis, however, a set of Chrome Vanadium Freud chisels I picked up off a bargain table 40 years ago, long before anyone saw the words metallurgy and woodworking used in the same sentence. BTW, if you really want to work on a badly damaged chisel by all means buy some of these beautiful chisels with round handles. They never stop rolling until they hit the floor. You want octagonal handles like my Freud and which Sorby continue to make. Finally, the linked video, which teaches how to introduce camber to a smoothing plane blade is noteworthy, less for achieving camber and more for how few passes it takes to remove a significant amount of metal. th-cam.com/video/Lp9XEnvmJzg/w-d-xo.html
would it be advantageous to have the jig at a 90 degree tangent to the disc, to have more of the disc spinning more with the direction of the chisel vs across it?
You can use the glue back sand paper on the worksharp and get the same thing without the flexing of the plexiglass. Same principal as a WS but ALOT cheaper.
Good video on the product. Could have gone into making the platform you had made for the chisels to ride on. I love your content don’t get me wrong. Just seems like the “woodworking” is slowly going downhill and it’s more of a pitch point for tools. While I enjoy the content you do make it’s good. Whole reason I subscribed was that you were genuinely beginning into woodworking. I get you got to make money. Just miss the builds videos.
@@TaylorToolworks Great. I'm gonna get FIVE Of these (one for me and one for each of my grown kids who all love woodworking ... and who all hate sharpening!)
Been thinking about getting this, or one of the guides that you lock the chisel in and run it over a stone. One thing about this one I noticed is that where the jig is that you’re just using the outer edge of the paper. Don’t mean to sound like a cheapskate but might as well get your money’s worth. Make the jig on a slide track or something so it can move farther under the paper.
A dissenting opinion. I bought the system and carefully made the jig. Tried it on all my chisels. Found it very difficult to sharpen the chisels and keep the bevel square. I consider it a gimmick with a major flaw. I will not use it again. So BEWARE.
I don't own it but this is definitely a quick and dirty shortcut to sharpen your tools for someone who doesn't care if it's perfect and just wants it sharp enough to cut. I can think of several flaws off the top of my head just looking at it. The plates will definitely flex. If your drill press has any run out at all it's going to cause the disc to wobble. If your jig isn't built square or your table isn't square to the arbor, your angles will be off. Will it sharpen tools? Sure. Will it replace a high -end sharpening system? Absolutely not. But it's $45. What do you expect?
I've used it to sharpen hundreds of chisels and mine have never been so sharp. Ive checked the shapness with an objective sharpnedd tester and score are consistently in the low 80s which are better than any other sharpening system. You do need to square up the jig to your drill press by swimming with blue tape. This is covered in the manual. Yes there is some flex in the disc but you don't need to push as hard as Matt and it will still cut very fast with a nice straight edge. This system breaks all the rules in sharpening. We have sold near 5000 of these and this is literally the first complaint about the system we have received. We have customers call daily and tell us how well it works for them and how easy it is for them to get and keep their chisels razor sharp.
The only thing I would change is to have a couple of the jigs at different angles, not only for chisels but for planes too (not to mention micro bevels). Other wise what a great system.
Not perfect, but works well enough for the average woodworker. I use it to establish or correct the bevel...then move to stones & jig for my good chisels. Perfect for my bench chisels. Also, it's great for plow plane blades. The deflection seen doesn't affect the end result much, if at all. Heat is generated, esp. with wide chisels that need a lot of work. If you can't hold it, stop grinding! Getting the edge square is very easy...like follow the instructions...
Doesn't do you much good if you don't have a drill press though! I've been thinking about getting some chisels and a hand plane, but hesitant because of the sharpening. May have to consider this and a drill press.
Looks like that could put an edge on a mallet! I have a Worksharp system which is great for kitchen knives, but not so good for chisels. This appears to be a great upgrade - especially as I don't use my drillpress too much.
What drill press fence are you using? I have a Wen and that is something third party but it looks useful -Oops, just saw it in your video description. Also by Taylor tools. But $208?!
You were so close to rolling over to 500k subscribers on the video in the background. Bet if you had talked for just a few more minutes you might have made it :-) Congrats on the channel growth!
ONE WORD OF CAUTION: You still need to be very mindful of heat doing this. You can easily mess up the tempering on the chisel with this method, even with the 3M. Yeah... I've done that.
I have sharpened hundreds of chisels with this system and have never had it get anything hot enough to remove the temper. Have to get up to 600 degrees to do that and nothing g I've sharpened as gotten above 200. The cubitron does generate heat. When I was at the 3m headquarters I witnessed them grinding 6 inched from a 1x1 inch piece of stainless steel and you could touch it right after. No heat was generated. So this is not a convern..
This is a great idea, but I wonder about something. The video clearly shows some flex in the plastic disc. How does affects the accuracy and sharpness of the chisel? Seems like it would be very easy to end up with the beveled edge being slightly curved, not flat.
It's a gimmick, sadly gaining a lot of traction as those guys we love to follow and watch are pushing this thing. It is a horrible thing to teach those seeking advice.
@@pepperman9I've been woodworking for more than 4 decades and used every system out there. This gets my tool sharper in less time than anything else. It is no gimmick. It just breaks all the rules and the inflexible old timers hate it for that. We've sold literally thousands of these with not one complaint. The only people who complain are the ones who've not used it.
I love the jig. Just have to watch the flex on the disc when pushing up. The flex as it goes UP, it puts pressure on the front edge and instead of being razor sharp, it’s very sharp. That’s my experience with it. Want to be perfect? Machine a 1/4” steel disc with .0001 tolerances…..lol. Just don’t press as hard and you’ll be fine!
If you push more gently the discs cut just as fast with nonflex. Matt's been working out a bit much and has a heavy hand. A lighter touch will do the trick.
Don't know about chisels but I've sharpened quite some knives, I'm a little bit suspicious about the system...we know that when knives are sharpened, it leaves micro structures ( tiny scratches) on the cutting edge, but we prefer the direction of the micro structure being perpendicular to the cuting edge than being parrallel. it keeps the knife sharp longer. Any comments?
Hi there! Wondering if you have a link for all the Christian T-shirts you wear. There is another TH-camr that I watch and I would like to get one for him. His channel is called Sarasota Tim-- (a channel about Nothing.) LOL. I will ask him to give you a Shout Out. Merry Christmas to you all.
Strange idea, not only the issue of the disc flexing so the sharpening angle may be unpredictable but also the grit on the paper. The traditional way to fix a damaged chisel would be to use a slow water cooled sandstone wheel which essentially does the same as this system. That shapes the blade but does not sharpen it. Finishing the edge with progressive diamond blocks does take time but if you compare the edge using a magnifier you will see that course cutters create an edge that looks almost like a saw blade, lots of pits and spikes. The finer the grit the smaller these pits and spikes. Yes a 'rough' edge will cut, but not that cleanly or precisely. To use this system I would want heavy metal plates not plastic and sanding grits down to at least 4000.
So if you want a secondary micro bevel on the end, this isn’t the system to buy. This system appears to be very similar to the Work Sharp sharper, but $200 cheaper! Maybe I’ll give it a try.
Wouldn't this soften/ruin the steel? I learned that if you heat the chisel while sharpening it, it will lose the hardening treatment. That's why they use water to cool down the grinding process.
@@TadTheTinkerbased on....what, exactly? Aside from one guy's say-so, who admits to not being very knowledgable about the topic of sharpening hand tools? I would love to see some actual data, before trying to convince people these won't/can't ruin their tools.
@Kavik79 Just wow. Don't know much about physics, do ya? If the sanding disk generated enough heat to damage the temper of the chisel steal, the heat would cause the wooden jig to smoke and burn. You're talking over 500 degrees to modify the steel. (After heat treating (roughly 1000 degrees F), professional shops normalize the steel in an oven at around 400 degrees F. The combustion temperature of wood is 450. The human hand can only tolerate 100-150 degrees F. 731 here stated that the steel became warm but not hot. Any reasonably intelligent individual can conclude the temperature doesn't rise above about 100 F. That is 1/10 the needed heat to ruin the heat treating of the chisel steel. And if you really think you need it, get a tub of water and place it next to the station while you sharpen. Dip the chisel every 3rd or 4th touch to the disk. This will keep the blade at room temperature. No longer than he took to sharpen the blade, there wasn't enough energy transfer to heat the steel.
You seem to be putting a knife edge on the chisel. this may be fine for soft woods but you you do usually need another cutting angle applied at the cutting edge for harder woods usually done by honing. Are you suggesting this honing angle is unnecessary?
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You lost me when you said chuck all 3 holes, seriously man.
@robertoconnell5992 🤷🏻♂️✌🏻
Got the jig from Taylor and built the wooden part in about 30 min. It is a fantastic system. I have always hated to sharpen my chisels in the past, now it is a breeze!!!
BLUF I am truly impressed. I put mine in my Jet drill press (which is hardly setup accurately I threw it together like everything I do). I also threw the instructions away so I completely winged the jig dimensions based on watching this video. I had a 3/4”
Bench chisel that was badly damaged by my teenager, looked like he chiseled through a tenpenny nail. I was able to get a new edge and then sharpen it to a very acceptable standard in literally one minute.
I am having a very hard time understanding the complaints on this product. I can’t believe how good it is for the price.
Hey Mr. Outlaw, I started my woodworking journey about a year ago as something to do while I was finishing up school! My grandfather was a woodworker, and so was his father. One of my favorite things to do with him, is relax and watch a few of your videos for an hour. I must say, we love your work, videos, and style. I just bought the DW735 thanks to your review!! I hope all is well for you and Ms. 731, and thank you for helping me straighten my relationship with my Grandpa.
-PB&J Woodworks
Thank you PB&J! I appreciate y'all so much!
I am from over the pond in England.
I bought this and some other bit from Taylor Tools, who are very good company.
Like the jig very much.
Take your time making the jig and you won't have a problem .
Got the tormek system ,but I prefer the Taylor Tools system. 👍
Love your videos 👍👍
Damn, wish I had a drill press
Taylor Tools is a great small business and I have purchased many products from them. Good idea and same procedure as using the Worksharp 3000. (Got a used one for $100). All chisels do not have the same bevel angle. The Worksharp machine has facility to hold the chisel solid at any angle you desire. The system you demonstrated should be adequate for quick touch up type shop use for whatever angle you built the jig for. The big difference that stands out to me is having to build a single angle jig, setup the drill press, etc. The Worksharp is a very small footprint machine that sets at the ready on my workbench out of the way.
The big difference between the worksharp and ours is the 3m cubitron. Thar stuff cuts fast, does not generate much heat and it lasts forever.
@@TaylorToolworks Thanks for you response. I agree and I use the 3M cubitron sanding disks on my Workshop 3000. The ability to select multiple a sharping angles on the Workshop is a big plus for me. I have different purpose built chisels and hence several different angles to sharpen.
I have never heard you giggle with happiness of a kid like you did after the 5 minute mark. Love the videos you do and this one cracked me up.
I want to thank you for the information and have been eyeballing this item. I ordered two of them because i like flexibility and not stuck to singular line of failure.
This is why I absolutely love your channel.
Thanks!
I snagged this kit a couple of weeks ago , no issues ,I give the Taylor’s. 10 . The jig took 15 minutes ,my chisels are 10 x shaper than I could have done this by hand . I don’t have time to play whetstone game nor do I care to . I don’t build nukes so if the angle is 24 degrees instead of 25 ,that’s ok . Shipping was 4 days and everything was completed on line . Cheers
Hey Santa!!!
For what I do in the workshop, I really don't need expensive chisels. Been using a set the El Chipo bargain chisels for 15 years. Sharpen/clean them 2x per year. now that task may only take an hour instead of an evening.
I have had mine for a while and love it. I modified the jig by adding rare earth magnets. I move quill down instead of moving chisel.
So me and my friends have been experimenting with one of these and it's certainly useful for establishing primaries and secondaries in place of a bench grinder. However, be very, very wary using it to lap ANY blades if you invest. Repeated hand lapping on leather can dub backs anyway but doing it on a high speed leather-backed disc dubbed blades in just a few seconds, even sans compound. This is largely down to the physical compression of the leather. We've tested it on a few beater chisels and found the same thing each time. Lapping with the abrasive films is better but not immune. The films compress too (albeit on a considerably smaller scale which will be negligible to some) and the effect is hastened by a disc spinning at such high speed. You can mitigate this by using very light pressure and lapping on the pull only.
This all paired with the intrinsic lengthways concavity of a typical Western chisel means their respective geometries do not play nice together. It can grind a chisel out of square if you're not careful also. They really are belly-making machines unless you employ an incredibly deft touch. Fine for rough work but leather lapping done in this way kills any chisels ability to achieve proper surface registration for clean parring which we want for accurate joinery. In fact, I think the light reflection on your chisel at 6:40 shows that the front has been rounded. Might be worth taking a trusted engineers square to that foremost 10mm only, hold it up to the light and see if you can see any rocking indicative of a fulcrum.
All of our testing so far has had us reach an unfortunate but unanimous verdict RE certain uses of the kit. We all agree with Charlesworth on this one, in that we're yet to encounter an abrasive sheet method that doesn't induce any dubbing at all. Funnily enough, we theorise that the mild deflection of the disc here actually reduces the dubbing effect.
That said, YMMV and I hope that it does. I'm always very keen to be proven wrong in my pursuit of learning more.
What is dubbing?
Thanks for the video, now I just need to get some of the 3M Cubitron discs for my Worksharp 3000.
WOW !!! , i will get that system. I struggle sharpening any thing. Fantastic video. Thank you
Hi Matt. I bought this system a couple of months ago. And, yeah, it works great. I also bought a set of Narex chisels without handles. Next, I have to make some handles, without having a lathe.
Hehe
If you own a corded drill you can easily make it into a small lathe with a few simple jigs. I’ve seen multiple channels demonstrate it for making small wooden parts such as handles for knives and chess pieces.
@@bvictory5698 Thanks b
Pretty slick! My drill press sits idle a good bit, this will be a good fit for my shop.
I bought this after Stumpy showed it, and it is the best ever and I have a Tomek and Worksharp. This is easy and repeatable. I will suggest you take a level to your table and the top of you press to be sure you are square to each other. I had a time my chisel was getting an angled end, turns out the table was tilted down enough to cause it.
I like Ashley Iles chisels. I've got the entire set and an "extreme" sharpening station from Workship Heaven in the UK. Note: If you want Ashley Iles chisels, you order and you wait a couple of months, until they're made. They're all hand-made.
Merry Christmas. 😃
Thanks Matt! I've been looking for a fool proof easy to use chisel sharpener.. All my chisels are a mess because I was procrastinating on getting anything to use. I'm actually buying this right now. Christmas gift to myself!
Essentially a DIY version of the WorkSharp system. :)
Yes, but without the motor, and some other usable things.
Precisely
Better. I had the worksharp system and it NEVER ended up being square. Went back to Rockler and returned it for another and that had the same issue. Blades are always out of square despite all the adjustments being addressed on the ramp bottom side. This. I got two of the kits....one for repairing and one for maintenance on units just needing a tuneup. Stupid simple.
An intriguing system, Matt, and it's clear that it fixed that damaged chisel quickly. However, something I noticed during the video: the disk deflected as you pushed the chisel into it using the jig as well as when you did the stropping. I'm wondering how much of a difference, if any, that might make if you later use the more traditional system of a stone against a flat work surface. If precision is critical, and I know it is for many woodworkers, then you might have to work a long time to correct for that error.
I made one using old circular saw blades. They deflect less ... and I could probably do the sharpening in my circular saw! Be sure to grind the teeth off or at least run the blades backwards.
Great video Matt love Taylor Tools and their tools thanks for sharing as always
731Matt, chisels are a beast. As always, you have your finger on the pulse of the evolution of tools and jigs to help us make our live so much easier. Thank you‼️
Much L🫶🏻VE, RESPECT, a Very Merry Christmas, and God bless Y🫵🏻U and Miss Amy‼️🫶🏻🫶🏻🫶🏻🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼🎅🏻🧑🏻🎄🦌🦌🦌🎄🎁
Merry Christmas!
I have a section of old granite worktop which I stick emery paper to, works a treat
This is a good process! I have the series of stones “ old school “ way!
I have the power wet stone in the event you have a severely damaged chisel! But this system looks great for general maintenance. 👍
Hey Matt. I also got this system about a month ago. Absolutely love it. Like in Mikes video, I had an old chisel that looked more like a screwdriver. Had it shaving sharp in about 5 minutes. Was hoping you would do a review on it .
Might end up buying this for my workshop. Hopefully they ship to Brazil.
I just got my stuff from that mystery box from Taylor tool works bunch of junk 3 rulers 2 marking pens I giant strop and I gues it's some type of clamp
Wow! That’s pretty cool
Thanks Matt
Thanks for making this video. I'm in the process of setting up a small shop and will be looking to incorporate this system. Prayers for a Blessed Christmas and New Year.
Thank you for sharing this, very helpful to speed up the sharpening process!
I'll have one of these 😊
Such an awesome system! Adding this to my “MUST HAVE” list!
Thanks for bringing this to my attention. At some point, I will buy it. If I had known it was coming out, I wouldn't have bought a set of stones and the device to hold the chisel at an angle. I would have even paid less for this.
Awesome system Matt! Thanks 👍. 😊😊😊❤❤❤
Thank you for the videos! I have been putting my "shop" together, your very motivating and knowledgeable. Keep them coming!
Very cool product and an excellent video!! Do happen to have the jig as a 3D file for printing? I have the same Bambulab printer you have..
It’s a DIY Worksharp. 😜
But also great for a lot of people. I prefer my Tormek and wet stones but this is affordable and easy.
Hi Matt. Another great video. Would you be able to sharpen hand plane blades with this system?
They take a slightly different approach that is covered in the manual, but still get them razor sharp in seconds.
Great, have got this system now. Would you use this same tool/method to sharpen a hand plane blade? What changes would you make, if they were needed?
Insane cool. Thanks for sharing this.
Shiny is more than just a pretty appearance. If it’s a flawless mirror shine, that means there are no deeper grooves in either the bevel surface or the back surface, and that means a smooth edge, translating to a smooth surface on the wood. Grooves in the metal finish result in a serrated edge, which makes a serrated or grooved surface on the wood.
looks great. does anyone know if this system can be used to sharpen hand planer blades?
Sharpening chisels with any sandpaper is for any hobby woodworker.
We have many professionals using it..
@@TaylorToolworksokay. I didn’t say professionals don’t use sandpaper. I said sandpaper is a great sharpening option for hobbyists.
So then you haven't heard about the Scary Sharp sharpening method Might try looking that up.
@@buckhorncortez I have. And it’s a great way to destroy your chisels. However, they are scary sharp before that.
Interesting.
hi, will sparks not overheat chisel material and hardness compromised ?
Would this also work with hand plane irons?
I have several Taylor measuring and marking tools and they're great. This jig, though, seems not so great. First, I can't imagine a woodworker regardless of how clumsy, having a chisel or plane blade get as beat up as your demo. Second, the same results can be had with any Alox sand paper, a piece of float glass, and an $80 Veritas sharpening jig which will also sharpen a plane blade.
My own setup is simply 2 waterstones, 600 and 8000 and the Veritas. The Veritas is reserved for new or damaged blades as is the 600 grit stone. All that's needed for regular use is the 8000 to touch-up the micro bevel free hand, an essential skill easily learned.
All this recent, internet inspired selling of 4 or 5 progressive grit stones, diamond or others is nonsense. Do you want to cut paper and hair or trim a joint? All my work going on 50 years is with hand tools. I have one of the $140 Japanese chisels I imported just out of curiosity and it's great. I continue to use on a daily basis, however, a set of Chrome Vanadium Freud chisels I picked up off a bargain table 40 years ago, long before anyone saw the words metallurgy and woodworking used in the same sentence.
BTW, if you really want to work on a badly damaged chisel by all means buy some of these beautiful chisels with round handles. They never stop rolling until they hit the floor. You want octagonal handles like my Freud and which Sorby continue to make.
Finally, the linked video, which teaches how to introduce camber to a smoothing plane blade is noteworthy, less for achieving camber and more for how few passes it takes to remove a significant amount of metal. th-cam.com/video/Lp9XEnvmJzg/w-d-xo.html
would it be advantageous to have the jig at a 90 degree tangent to the disc, to have more of the disc spinning more with the direction of the chisel vs across it?
perhaps not with that disc deflection,you'd end up with a tilted bevel. I wonder if an aluminum disc would deflect less?
You can use the glue back sand paper on the worksharp and get the same thing without the flexing of the plexiglass. Same principal as a WS but ALOT cheaper.
Good video on the product. Could have gone into making the platform you had made for the chisels to ride on. I love your content don’t get me wrong. Just seems like the “woodworking” is slowly going downhill and it’s more of a pitch point for tools. While I enjoy the content you do make it’s good. Whole reason I subscribed was that you were genuinely beginning into woodworking. I get you got to make money. Just miss the builds videos.
Very good video. Do you have a knife sharpening video? Thanks
Great video of a great idea. Could you use this for plane blades?
Yes works for plane blades. The manual covers this. Download a manual from the detail page..
@@TaylorToolworks Great. I'm gonna get FIVE Of these (one for me and one for each of my grown kids who all love woodworking ... and who all hate sharpening!)
Curious if this jig can be modified to sharpen hand planes?
Been thinking about getting this, or one of the guides that you lock the chisel in and run it over a stone. One thing about this one I noticed is that where the jig is that you’re just using the outer edge of the paper. Don’t mean to sound like a cheapskate but might as well get your money’s worth. Make the jig on a slide track or something so it can move farther under the paper.
Nice, thanks for sharing
Does this chisel sharpen sharpening system work on planers also? Pep
A dissenting opinion. I bought the system and carefully made the jig. Tried it on all my chisels. Found it very difficult to sharpen the chisels and keep the bevel square. I consider it a gimmick with a major flaw. I will not use it again. So BEWARE.
You can see the dang plate flexing when he uses it.
I don't own it but this is definitely a quick and dirty shortcut to sharpen your tools for someone who doesn't care if it's perfect and just wants it sharp enough to cut. I can think of several flaws off the top of my head just looking at it. The plates will definitely flex. If your drill press has any run out at all it's going to cause the disc to wobble. If your jig isn't built square or your table isn't square to the arbor, your angles will be off. Will it sharpen tools? Sure. Will it replace a high -end sharpening system? Absolutely not. But it's $45. What do you expect?
@@feelthepayne88 for real.. it’s 45$…
I have used it and it worked awesome for me. Nova Viking drill press and I saw no noticeable flex or runout issues. Maybe he is pushing too hard.
I've used it to sharpen hundreds of chisels and mine have never been so sharp. Ive checked the shapness with an objective sharpnedd tester and score are consistently in the low 80s which are better than any other sharpening system. You do need to square up the jig to your drill press by swimming with blue tape. This is covered in the manual. Yes there is some flex in the disc but you don't need to push as hard as Matt and it will still cut very fast with a nice straight edge. This system breaks all the rules in sharpening. We have sold near 5000 of these and this is literally the first complaint about the system we have received. We have customers call daily and tell us how well it works for them and how easy it is for them to get and keep their chisels razor sharp.
The only thing I would change is to have a couple of the jigs at different angles, not only for chisels but for planes too (not to mention micro bevels). Other wise what a great system.
As it sits I would not buy one
Could you use this system to sharpen, for example, a low angle block plane blade?
Yes
Not perfect, but works well enough for the average woodworker. I use it to establish or correct the bevel...then move to stones & jig for my good chisels.
Perfect for my bench chisels. Also, it's great for plow plane blades.
The deflection seen doesn't affect the end result much, if at all. Heat is generated, esp. with wide chisels that need a lot of work. If you can't hold it, stop grinding!
Getting the edge square is very easy...like follow the instructions...
Will this work on plane blades as well?
I'm curious about this as well. Sharpening and keeping both hand planes and chisels would be great.
It's based on the Worksharp 3000's design
Sort of similar as you use the bottom of the disc, but different as you don't need a whole machine as you use your drill press to power.
Some people said the plastic disc is prone to melt
Doesn't get hot enought to melt..
Yeah. I'm gonna need that
Would this method be acceptable for plane blades??
Doesn't do you much good if you don't have a drill press though! I've been thinking about getting some chisels and a hand plane, but hesitant because of the sharpening. May have to consider this and a drill press.
What is the ANGLE of that wooden jig you lay the chisel on ?
Looks like that could put an edge on a mallet!
I have a Worksharp system which is great for kitchen knives, but not so good for chisels. This appears to be a great upgrade - especially as I don't use my drillpress too much.
The biggest difference is rhe cubitron discs. They cut fast, do not heat the steel and last a long time.
What drill press fence are you using? I have a Wen and that is something third party but it looks useful
-Oops, just saw it in your video description. Also by Taylor tools. But $208?!
what type of wood is recommended for replacement handle for a chisel, please?
Anything you want, hardwood preferred. I got a hold of some camphor and it has been a joy using it for handles. The woodgrain is quite eye catching.
Did you use the 5” or 6” and what would be the advantage of either one.
The kit comes with six inch disks.
@@rogerlove7588 you can order either the 5” or 6”. Just wondering what advantage one or the other would be.
Tormek is best
You were so close to rolling over to 500k subscribers on the video in the background. Bet if you had talked for just a few more minutes you might have made it :-) Congrats on the channel growth!
Will these free plans still be available?
Sometimes I would rather buy new chisels then sharpen them. This could be a game changer
Yikes, my set of Stanley 750's run $200, I couldn't imagine buying a new set every week because they are dull.
@@pepperman9 you must use them a lot more than I do. Also, the chisels I use our carpenter chisels. They only run me about $60
ONE WORD OF CAUTION: You still need to be very mindful of heat doing this. You can easily mess up the tempering on the chisel with this method, even with the 3M.
Yeah... I've done that.
Soooo true
I have sharpened hundreds of chisels with this system and have never had it get anything hot enough to remove the temper. Have to get up to 600 degrees to do that and nothing g I've sharpened as gotten above 200. The cubitron does generate heat. When I was at the 3m headquarters I witnessed them grinding 6 inched from a 1x1 inch piece of stainless steel and you could touch it right after. No heat was generated. So this is not a convern..
This is a great idea, but I wonder about something. The video clearly shows some flex in the plastic disc. How does affects the accuracy and sharpness of the chisel? Seems like it would be very easy to end up with the beveled edge being slightly curved, not flat.
It's a gimmick, sadly gaining a lot of traction as those guys we love to follow and watch are pushing this thing. It is a horrible thing to teach those seeking advice.
@@pepperman9I've been woodworking for more than 4 decades and used every system out there. This gets my tool sharper in less time than anything else. It is no gimmick. It just breaks all the rules and the inflexible old timers hate it for that. We've sold literally thousands of these with not one complaint. The only people who complain are the ones who've not used it.
I'd love to see it. But when I try to order? No shipment to the Netherlands, makes me very sad. 😮💨
Why is it that after every video you make, my bank account is suddenly lower?
Fines up the lathe and grabs a couple of bolts from the bin... :)
Hmmm, should work for planes, no? 25 or 30 deg is the sweet spot. I'll have to make mine (ordered it a month or two ago)
"Beyond normal"- Let me introduce you to my jobsite chisels lol
Very informative video great job Matt, I wonder if they have something in the works for wood turning tools ? That would be awesome. 👊🏻👊🏻
I saw this and mid-video I bought one. If it works half as good as it appears to it’s so well worth $50.
I love the jig. Just have to watch the flex on the disc when pushing up. The flex as it goes UP, it puts pressure on the front edge and instead of being razor sharp, it’s very sharp. That’s my experience with it. Want to be perfect? Machine a 1/4” steel disc with .0001 tolerances…..lol. Just don’t press as hard and you’ll be fine!
If you push more gently the discs cut just as fast with nonflex. Matt's been working out a bit much and has a heavy hand. A lighter touch will do the trick.
@@TaylorToolworks Matt is a bit buff! Haha, love your shop I got some unhandled narex chisel that I put handles on and they are EXCELLENT!
Oh and I call your shop "Tay Tay" as in where you get your chisels from? "Tay Tay".
Don't know about chisels but I've sharpened quite some knives, I'm a little bit suspicious about the system...we know that when knives are sharpened, it leaves micro structures ( tiny scratches) on the cutting edge, but we prefer the direction of the micro structure being perpendicular to the cuting edge than being parrallel. it keeps the knife sharp longer. Any comments?
I see that disc deflecting quite a bit as you push the chisel into it.
You can push witha lighter touch and it will cut just as fast with no flexing of the disc..
@dalesworkshop … not a bad idea for some of your restorations.
Can you address the hollow grind found on todays chisels?
lol, never mind You kind of did address it. Your answer is to simply grind it away.
hope you see this... I love your videos. Just wanted to say it.
Good idea. Where is the blueprint for this chisel sharpening device?
link to it in the description
I didn't find this plan. 😢
they do not ship to the netherlands :( i realy would like to get my hands on this tho what a shame
Hi there! Wondering if you have a link for all the Christian T-shirts you wear. There is another TH-camr that I watch and I would like to get one for him. His channel is called Sarasota Tim-- (a channel about Nothing.) LOL. I will ask him to give you a Shout Out. Merry Christmas to you all.
Has anyone tried to sharpen hand planer blades with this?
Strange idea, not only the issue of the disc flexing so the sharpening angle may be unpredictable but also the grit on the paper. The traditional way to fix a damaged chisel would be to use a slow water cooled sandstone wheel which essentially does the same as this system. That shapes the blade but does not sharpen it. Finishing the edge with progressive diamond blocks does take time but if you compare the edge using a magnifier you will see that course cutters create an edge that looks almost like a saw blade, lots of pits and spikes. The finer the grit the smaller these pits and spikes. Yes a 'rough' edge will cut, but not that cleanly or precisely. To use this system I would want heavy metal plates not plastic and sanding grits down to at least 4000.
So if you want a secondary micro bevel on the end, this isn’t the system to buy. This system appears to be very similar to the Work Sharp sharper, but $200 cheaper! Maybe I’ll give it a try.
Wouldn't this soften/ruin the steel? I learned that if you heat the chisel while sharpening it, it will lose the hardening treatment. That's why they use water to cool down the grinding process.
As he mentioned, it gets warm but not hot. This will be fine. The steel won't get hot enough to loose its temper.
@@TadTheTinkerbased on....what, exactly? Aside from one guy's say-so, who admits to not being very knowledgable about the topic of sharpening hand tools?
I would love to see some actual data, before trying to convince people these won't/can't ruin their tools.
Apparently, there is a Cubitron 3, which doesn’t even heat up metal when sanding with it. They are only selling it into metalwork applications so far.
@Kavik79 Just wow. Don't know much about physics, do ya? If the sanding disk generated enough heat to damage the temper of the chisel steal, the heat would cause the wooden jig to smoke and burn. You're talking over 500 degrees to modify the steel. (After heat treating (roughly 1000 degrees F), professional shops normalize the steel in an oven at around 400 degrees F. The combustion temperature of wood is 450. The human hand can only tolerate 100-150 degrees F. 731 here stated that the steel became warm but not hot. Any reasonably intelligent individual can conclude the temperature doesn't rise above about 100 F. That is 1/10 the needed heat to ruin the heat treating of the chisel steel. And if you really think you need it, get a tub of water and place it next to the station while you sharpen. Dip the chisel every 3rd or 4th touch to the disk. This will keep the blade at room temperature. No longer than he took to sharpen the blade, there wasn't enough energy transfer to heat the steel.
I've tried to overheat the steel and never got any chisel to be over 150 degrees using my a digital thermometer..
You seem to be putting a knife edge on the chisel. this may be fine for soft woods but you you do usually need another cutting angle applied at the cutting edge for harder woods usually done by honing. Are you suggesting this honing angle is unnecessary?