Have I Lost My Marbles? Marble Machine made of Free DIY Filament from PET Plastic Bottles!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.ค. 2022
- This video shows how I take empty PET Plastic water bottles and process them into usable 3D filament. The process is called 'pultrusion' and begins by slicing the bottles into long strips whose width is determined by the thickness of the walls of the bottle. Thinner plastic will need wider strips and thicker plastic will need narrower strips. These strips are then pulled through a 'hot-end' by means of a geared box and take-up spool. As the strip passes through the nozzle of the hot-end it is heated, curled, and formed into a 1.65mm diameter filament. This filament can then be used on a standard 3D printer so long as it's able to heat the bed to 70C and the hot-end to 258-260C.
PRINTER: Creality Ender 3 v2 (modified to handle higher temps needed for PET Plastic)
3D MODEL: 'The Bucket Lift - Modular Marble Machine' by user 'Out Of Marbles' is available on Printables.com
www.printables.com/model/7514...
SLICER: Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1
Chart for determining cut width of plastic strips in relation to its thickness.
Thick Width
.20mm 10mm
.25mm 9mm
.30mm 8mm
.35mm 7mm
.40mm 6mm
.45mm 5mm - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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If people like you were running the world there would surely be no wars, we would all be too busy creating things! Fascinating stuff😊
Thank you! Hopefully I can continue to come up with ideas for fascinating things to make from my homemade PET filament from these recycled plastic bottles!
we create more because of war lol
Being able to turn recycled bottles into filament feels like a super power :)
I never thought about it that way. But now that you mention it, it does sort of feel like a super power! 😊
Jesus ,the man just hand paited tens of meters of pet ribbon by hand ,with a sharpie . Absolute mad lad
😂. I only do that when I use the small soda bottles that my hand won’t fit inside of. I also use some larger 1-gal water bottles, and I color the inside of those before I cut them into strips. Way more time efficient! Speaking of which…. And you’ll love this…. I just recently made an Arduino Nano and stepper motor powered bottle ‘turner’. After prepping the bottle and cutting off the bottom, I screw it back into a cap that been attached to the shaft of the stepper. It then begins slowly turning, and while that’s happening, I use a marker and make small circles inside the bottle, starting at the neck and working my way down to the bottom. A real time saver! Hahahahhaa!!
@@KevinGroninga3Dwow , you truely are the chosen one ! Lol
I recently made the machine too , and tuned the proceses to be very efficient but i still dont like doing it cause it take some time to wash the bottles & also i haven't found a reliable way of joining the filaments toghether . Have you tried slushing alchohol ink inside the bottle & letting it dry before cutting instead of sharpying it ? Personally i'm not intrested in coloring the filament but if i had , i would've gave it a try .best regards bud
@@thevoidedwarranty I tried alcohol ink one time, but it didn't work very well. However, polyester dye works great! I bought a product called 'iDye Poly' on Amazon. I then took the coiled-up ribbon and soaked it in that warm dye, then rinsed and pultruded. The color is absolutely fantastic! I've done Crimson Red and Royal Purple and both were very rich in color! As for joining sections.... I recently bought a Slunaz FF1R automatic filament joiner by being a backer on a KickStarter campaign. That machine is fully automatic and does an absolutely fantastic job of making solid, strong welds. it makes the job of joining multiple sections and winding them up on a spool a veritable pleasure. SO EASY!
In fact, I think I posted a video about the Slunaz FF1R here on my channel. It was one of my recent videos. Super cool machine!
@@KevinGroninga3D sounds great ,but we dont have international shipping or ebay or any sites of that kind to by stuff . What i personally make is what i get . I'll figure something out for the joining
Very nice, well done Sir!
Thanks, I appreciate that! 😊
Respect! Finishing a 19 hour print with pet bottles filament is quite the challenge! Thank you very much for the chart! I was thinking a lot about this. I want to make a sensor that keeps the motor at a certain speed based on the width and thickness of the filament strip, some sort of filament width sensor so we can make more accurate filament and maybe even start a bigger recycling process. The ultimate goal would be a fully automated one, but it's just a bit more than a dream right now. Thanks for the video!
Well, with pultrusion, making a good filament is all about the width of the ribbon based on its thickness, NOT about the speed you’re pulling it thru the hot nozzle. You’d have to measure the thickness of the plastic ahead of where it’s being cut into ribbon, and as the thickness changes, the width of the ribbon would need to be adjusted. It’s all volumetric. If the plastic gets thinner, the ribbon needs to be wider and vise versa.
That was really impressive 👀
Thanks! I really had a lot of fun making this marble run from all of those plastic bottles! Seems like a lot of extra work when you can just buy commercially made filament, but this seems like I’m also doing one small thing to try to prevent some of these bottles from ending up in a landfill. That, and the marble run is just super fun to watch!
I plan on doing more epic builds like this is the near future. So as they say, Like, Share, and Subscribe!
Impressive.
Thank you!
Wow.... not only have you found a way to recycle all these bottles... you find a good use for it! I'm genuinely amazed! Any chance you would sell kits to make our own recycling station? my hat off to you sir
Actually, there are already a couple of companies that do make commercially available PET filament makers. Petamentor I think is one. And I believe there are a couple more. If you Google PET Filament Machine or even search TH-cam I’m sure you could find some. I made mine from a RAMPS v1.4 3D printer control board, but there are simpler versions that can be made with readily available electronic components in order to control the temp of the hot-end and adjust the speed of the take-up gear system. It’s not really very practical because of what has to be done to each bottle, then cutting into the long strip and then pulling it into filament, and finally welding a number of sections of filament together to make enough to print a complete 3D model. My large water bottles make about 14 meters of plastic ribbon. It then takes roughly 3 hours and 15 minutes to pull that into filament. Yep, rather slow. 😂. But it’s all about having a little fun and showing that you can indeed do something like 3D printing with nothing but recycled material!!
Bravo!
Talk about 'Vertical-Integration'--LOL!
Great Job!
Thanks for Posting Video -- SUBSCRIBED!!!
Stay tuned! I plan to be doing more of these types of videos in the future. Always looking for new epic projects to build from these recycled bottles.
A great recycle, also noticed the PA speakers, play an instrument, sing/play? Any published songs or just fun/club/bar scene? I got to say, that's quite an investment, thank you.
😂. I used to play bass. But those speaker and PA are for a Gunfighters Reenactment group that I’m in and we use it to play the music and narration for our shows. Good eye!!!
thanks
Congratulations! Very impressive! Let me give you a tip. On 2:25 you use a heat gun to make the bottle hold its shape. You could achieve the same effect If you place the pumped bottle under boiling water for a couple of seconds! It's easier If you're dealing with a couple of bottles.
I learned this from a brazilian "PET broom maker" Channel.
Be blessed!
Yeah, that does seem like it would work. But then I would have to have some sort of heating element and a very large pot of boiling water here in my garage where I work. I’ve also seen people use the burners on a gas stove, but I can see that being problematic as well. Burn a hole in the bottle under pressure and it would explode. So boiling water is safer in that regard. No chance of melting a hole.
@@KevinGroninga3D where do you live?
@@andrerochachaves, Phoenix, AZ, USA
Wow my man.. Bad ass... Brought back memories from kits when I was a kid building little robots with wind up motors... I was 5 building an SR-71 Blackbird, Had Legos like crazy, lincoln logs, Constructs.. Since then my whole life I've been building cool stuff.. Perhaps you can help me with a few of my ideas? Your skills are surpurb, music is chill and your talent if off the charts.. R.P..
Perhaps I can help! What sort of ideas?
I started making filament from recycled plastic bottles about 8 months ago and have since been on the hunt for bigger and better projects each time. This marble run was pretty awesome and I’m glad I found it on the ‘Out of Marbles’ site. Those folks are crazy talented and I’ve given thought to doing some of their other marble run machines.
good stuff
Thanks!
@@KevinGroninga3D I would suggest trying to automate the bottle shaping process, perhaps even trying to get more filament by pressurizing it while it's still hot so the bottom of the bottle isn't all to waste
@@THESLlCK that would actually be an entirely diff process. What I do is Pultrusion. You’re referring to Extrusion. Plastic is ground up into small bits, heated and then under extreme pressure is forced out of a small nozzle to form filament of the correct size. Those machines are available, but are pretty expensive.
@@KevinGroninga3D no no, I think I really missed the mark in how I presented that lol.
I just mean inflate the bottle a bit more so that more material from the bottom becomes tube-shaped and therefore useable for pultrusion. If I'm still explaining it badly I can rephrase it
@@THESLlCK ah! Okay, I totally get you! Yeah, it sure seems like we cut a lot off the bottom and it goes to waste. So, here’s the rub. The strips we cut are a certain width based upon the thickness of the plastic. If the plastic is thick, the strip must be narrower and vice versa. If too wide, the machine is unable to pull through the hot nozzle and the gears of the take-up just grind. The plastic at the bottom of the bottles is much thicker than the sides of the bottles. If I set my bottle stripper at a certain width (let’s say for the bottom plastic), then the plastic from the sides would be too narrow and not make a fully round filament. So that’s why everyone that does this generally cuts the bottom off, because that plastic is super thick and very inconsistent in thickness. But I like how you think! Would be nice to be able to do something with that plastic too. Btw, my wife always laughs when I try to strip the bottles all the way to the top! It can be a little bit of a challenge because the shape changes and you have to tip the bottle to get as close to the screw top as possible!
I will share some experience for people who are new to this and want to have an easier life reusing PET.
I don't know how people do it but I never got consistent results with a drilled out nozzle. The narrow part is just way too short and die swell occurs where plastic doesn't have enough time to conform to it's new diameter and ends up with too big of a diameter on the exit. On top of that if the direction of the fold of the plastic strip changes then it's very noticeable in the end product filament. What I did instead that fixed all my problems was to take a brass bolt and drill it with a 1.7mm drill bit. Then everything was fixed. I was getting very close to 1.75mm filament and the filament was very consistent. The next upgrade to that bolt was to make the entry wider than the exit but still leave a good lets say 5mm of constricted 1.7mm exit. I took a 4mm drill bit and made it "conical" with an angle grinder, then I took it to the bolt and did the job. Now the filament flows a little easier and the result is still the same. Another thing is to insulate the hotend with some cotton pads or whatever you find suits you. It's a massive power saving that will result in faster heat up and also more pulltrusion capacity.
I didn't have any luck joining PET filament with a soldering iron. In my experience as you wind the spool (unless you have such with a large radius) the joint tends to bend and I am afraid that it will break either because of the pretension I cause to feed the filament in the printer without it self unwinding or on the entry of the extruder if the two parts don't line up. I've made some very strong welds with a heat block to melt the filament in PTFE tubing. The problem there is that regular PTFE tube is 2mm and it even comes out more than 2mm because PTFE swells at the heated part. I've ordered some PTFE from aliexpress that is material for turning on a lathe. I have an idea to drill the same 1.7mm on it and see how well it will weld the plastic. I hope to make the weld
Can you join the bottle strips together rather than joining the filaments? That way you aren't having to reload the extruder as frequently.
@@cryofpaine I tried melting strips together but it becomes too thick and it breaks on the entry. I tried also mechanical connection with holes and knots which I got to go through but is also not reliable.
What happens if you get 1.7mm filament and set your slicer to 1.7mm instead of 1.75mm? Or if it is much further off, but you still adjust in software?
@@phil2082 filament diameter is not too important. You need consistency. At first my filament was coming out 1.6mm but it was pretty stable so prints were good. If your filament diameter is stable then you need to do a flow test and adjust the flow accordingly. Before doing the test if your filament is too far off 1.75 then set rough flow of : Flow = 1.75/diameter
What Russian forums by name?
This is amazing. How does this method compares to the use of commercial 3D printing filament? Is it as strong?
Well, I would say that it is the same as commercially made filament except that PET needs to be printed at higher temps. I print PET at 257-258C. And the resulting prints are stronger than commercially made PLA for sure. If you think about it, Soda bottles are under a lot of pressure.
I’ve printed a LOT of things with this PET and they are quite detailed and very strong!
@@KevinGroninga3D This is awesome mate. It blew up my mind when I saw your shorts video stripping a bottle. I am looking forward to buy a 3D printer and I will definitely try out this method. Thanks for sharing.
@@nicky5185 please note. Because of the higher temps for PET, you need to be sure your printer is capable of those sustained temp levels. Most commercial printers are made for PLA and PETG, both print at lower temps.
@@KevinGroninga3D Yep, I've learned about the mod from your video.
Have you made any changes on hotend? I think classic PTFE hotends can't print this material. So you should use an all metal throat?
Yes, I’ve replaced the original Creality throat with an all metal heartbreak from Slice Engineering. The Copperhead Heatbreak. The Capricorn PTFE tubing is now quite a distance from the hot-end and nozzle. I wouldn’t be able to print with a constant 257-258C otherwise. So, great question!
I’ve also insulated the underside of the bed. This helps maintain a more consistent temp across the bed and loses less heat to dissipation.
hi, how strong is the layer adhesion? i don't have good interlayer adhesion.
Layer adhesion if great! What temp and speed are you using to print your PET?
Where can I find the scematics for making the hotend machine that pill pet bottles from the extruder into filament? Please link files 🙏
My machine in this video was pieced together from several different sources. Some parts I had designed myself. But if you’re looking to build a good quality Pulstruder machine, I’d suggest this one. It’s called the Recreator3D MK5 and it can be found on Printables.com. It can be built using many of the parts from an old Ender 3 3D printer.
www.printables.com/model/179820-the-recreator-3d-mk5kit-ender3-pultrusion-unit
Hello, I built one of these my self but my strip starts to bubble in the nozzle and cuts of I tried adjusting the temperature but it didn't help
If you’re talking about the hot-end and nozzle of the pultruder, that should only be running at about 205C. If it’s melting, you’re way too hot! You’re only trying to soften it enough so that as the machine pulls in that strip, the strip rolls into a sort of ‘tube’.
What a BOSS!!! When I saw you paint the strip of PET with a marker, I was blown away!!! So simple and yet so effective!! Quick question...When printing with the recycled filament, do you increase your flow rate due to the filament having more of a U shape vs a bought filament which is round? If so, how much do you increase your flow rate?
Yes, I believe I increased the flow rate by 7-10%. But that adjustment depends on how hollow the inside of the filament is. If you get the width of the ribbon just right according to the thickness of the plastic, and if it’s a good tight pull through the nozzle, that hollow inside should be very minimal. Once you start printing you may find you have to adjust the flow rate as you go. If you’ve done a lot of 3D printing, you should be able to recognize over or under extrusion.
In addition to permanent markers, you can also use a product on Amazon called iDye Poly. It’s a polyester dye. I’ve used the red and the purple and the color comes out amazing! I cut the bottle into a ribbon, wrap it around my fist, tie it off with wire-ties and then soak in the warm/hot dye for about 45 min. Take out, rinse off and let it dry. Then run thru the Pultruder. The color actually penetrates into the plastic. It’s amazing!
@@KevinGroninga3D Thanks for the tips!! I'm going right now to check it out. I wish you lots of success with your channel, i've already subscribed!! Keep it up with those awesome videos!! We need more people like you on this earth!
tell me, what is the width of the tape from a 5 liter bottle? and I understand that the broach is at 205 degrees, and the seal is at 257?
The width of the tape (ribbon) depends upon how thick the plastic is. The thicker the plastic, the narrower the tape. Here’s a short table for reference.
Thick Wide
.20mm 10mm
.25mm 9mm
.30mm 8mm
.35mm 7mm
.40mm 6mm
.45mm 5mm
Anyone built a mig welder in a cabnet of inert gas yet ?
To print metal parts ?
The number of wire types an alloys is amazing .
If you’re talking about 3D printing metal parts, the answer is ‘yes’. And from the few videos of seen, the resulting parts are very strong and a super high level of detail.
There's a video of someone doing that here on TH-cam
What software are you running to get the higher temps?
I have a load of filament ready to go but can't print with it.☹️
I have the Jyers firmware on this Ender 3 v2. But I believe the original Ender version of the firmware also allows temps up to 260C. I’m printing my PET filament at 257-258C.
@@KevinGroninga3D Hmmmm🤔 mine only lets me set 250. Thanks for replying, I have a couple of options to try now. I may be trying to go too fast. I'll slow things down and start again.
@@timg6252 yep. PET takes a little to melt, so slow is better. And as far as the parts fan, keep that to 20-25%. Otherwise it will also cool the nozzle and prevent you from getting to 257c. If it’s not extruding, you’ll get that annoying clicking sound at the stepper.
Appologies, my question was a bit rude. I'm a bit frustrated because I've made the filament (i built the "recreator 3d") but can't get it to print on an ender 3 v2 with a sprite extruder 😔. The hotend should be more than capable but has no software. The ender v2 software tops out at 250, which, as you know, is too low. Any advice on software woukd be greatfully received
Okay, so you have a non-stock hot-end. Yeah, need to be more near that 257C mark. But I wonder if the lighter mass of the Sprite is also an issue. And you have to print really slow and with very little parts fan. You have to give time for the hot-end to melt that PET. Note, I still have the stock hot-end, but I have modified it and installed the Slice Engineering all metal heat break. Need to keep the PTFE Bowden tube away from that hot nozzle. Otherwise it would eventually melt down too. Which slicer pgm are you using? I ask because I have my PET profile available for download for Cura, but the 4.x versions. I haven’t uploaded the one I have for the new 5.x versions of Cura. Go to this link and at the very bottom is the link to download my Cura 4.x PET profile. linktr.ee/kevingroninga3d?ltsid=4f61e61c-a237-4a60-b311-2608d5d4f06d
@@KevinGroninga3D Thanks for such a full reply. The Sprite extruder is supposed to be good for 300C but the Ender drivers only let me set the temp to 250 but in looking last night it seems Creality have now released new firmware so I'll give that a go.
Using Cura but the new version. I'll see if I can tweak your v4 profile.
Many thanks for your reply.
@@timg6252 hmm, the Jyers firmware I’m using goes to 260, which is really all that machine should be capable of. But yeah, need to get to that 257-258 mark, then you should be good.
Hi, I have a question.
What temperature do you use to pull the pet filament.
Thanks in advance
It varies, but I’ve found that 205 Celsius works best. You’re not trying to melt the plastic, merely soften it enough to shape the strip into a filament as it passes through that nozzle.
And how many steps per second do you pull the filament
@@jeremydasilvaloureiro7274 well, not really defined as ‘steps per second’. The rig I made uses a RAMPS v1.4 3D printer board as a controller for hot end temp and speed to the stepper motor that runs the take-up gear box. It actually runs predefined GCODE files. But long story short, you have to pull the filament very slowly so it has time to warm enough to then form into a tube (per se) as it passes through that brass nozzle. Depending upon the material, that speed can be changed by using the RAMPS controller)which is running an old version of Marlin.). So for example, I process some large water bottles that give me about 14 meters of plastic strip. It takes 3 hours and 15 minutes to process that. You can do the math, but it’s very slow. If you try to pull any faster, the gears on the take-up spooler will just slip and grind.
Does this only work with PET or can LDPE be used?
I’m not sure. Do you have bottles of LDPE that can be cut into long narrow strips? You’d also have to know the various temps. How hot to form the strips into filament and the temps to 3D print with it. Is it safe to print with LDPE? Does it give off any dangerous fumes? I do see that LDPE filament is available online, so perhaps this COULD be done!
PETPULL рулит однозначно.:))
Could you post in English? Unable to translate your message.
I have some questions about the best settings for this pet, could you share your cure profile or ideamaker please.
You’re the second person to ask about slicer settings! So in my next big video (my build of a fairly complicated Galileo Clock mechanism), I was going to include a section showing some of the more important settings in my Cura profile for this recycled PET filament. If you haven’t already done so, please subscribe to my channel. When I release that next video you’ll be notified. It maybe a couple of weeks before that video is released though. I have all 30+ parts printed, but still have to assemble the clock and get video of that in order to begin the video editing. This weekend I will be out of town for the holiday, so hopefully I can begin assembly middle of this coming week.
And thanks for watching my videos!
Just out of curiosity, what do you think the best method would be for sharing a Cura profile? DropBox? I am able to export what I have, but wondered what would be the best method that would be acceptable by the most number of people.
@@KevinGroninga3D Friend, thanks for replying! I believe that Dropbox works well. Try attaching a link from him and one from Mediafire or even googledrive, it will work fine. Success to you!
@@RubensCampello, when I return from playing ‘cowboy’ in Tombstone this weekend, I’ll export and put it on Dropbox. I already have an account there.
@@KevinGroninga3D Wonderful, the community that watches will enjoy it because they will be able to test it based on their work. Good game to you !
how many rpms does the spool turn
That depends on the plastic and how wide the ribbon is. As it becomes more difficult to pull the ribbon through the nozzle, you may have to slow down the spool, and as it becomes easier you can speed it up. Having said that, it's very important that the ribbon be the correct width (depending upon the thickness of the plastic). In the end, if the ribbon is too narrow, the filament will not be a complete tube and your filament will not process through a 3D printer. If the ribbon is too wide, you will be unable to pull it through the hot nozzle.
How does your cardboard roll work? Mounting design etc. Thanks
It’s just a large spool made out of cardboard with a gun that is about 8” in diameter. I put a wooden dowel through the middle and suspend in the handles of a couple of 1 gallon resin jugs. Very low tech! The hub of the spool must be large. If any smaller it would cause the filament welds to snap. PET is very stiff and inflexible. 😂
@@KevinGroninga3D Thanks!! You should really do a video explaining your whole setup. Like gcode etc. Thanks again.
@@KevinGroninga3D Do you ever have issues with the welds breaking at the extruder gears?
@@TheRilo98 my setup uses a 3D printer board and gcode. But there are other ways to do this that don’t involve that sort of thing. I’ve seen several that just use electronic components to control the hot-end temp and the speed of a stepper motor (or DC motor) that controls the speed of the take-up gear box. In fact, I just saw on Thingiverse that ‘Petamentor’ has some recent updates. That’s also a ‘build your own’ system. You can print most of the parts from STL files and then you can buy the electronic components from them or places like Amazon or eBay.
@@TheRilo98 one or twice the welds have broken. But if you make a strong weld joint, it shouldn’t break when it goes through the extruder.
great video but you probably could have cut it down to half the time and had it just as interesting ^_^
Yeah, and if I shorten things and leave some steps out, it might generate comments and questions, which would be good as well! Thanks!
@KevinGroninga3D you could have also split a few parts into their own video too :)
So. I'm having trouble with this kind of printing....
I'm using 260°C, 100 speed with 120 flow, 15-20% fan and 70-75°C on the bed. I haven't printed on a while.
Now, I started again, everything is going nice, for the fist 0.5-1.0 cm, then it's stops ....it fails, and Idk why. I think my feeder has something to do with this, but it's that red CNC one . That bearing wheel, I don't like it tho...idk. and maybe it's just the spring, maybe has to be a little tougher.
If you have some advice I'll gladly take it.
Oh, and, your nozzle, it's the usual 0.4?
You’re trying to print way too fast. PET takes a while to absorb the heat and then flow smoothly. And maybe reduce the flow rate as well. I use a 0.6mm nozzle and if you change to a large one, you’ll need to adjust your setting in your slicer for that. But try slowing down…. Way down! And for the parts fan, first few layers the fan should be off. Then slowly speed it up over the next 5-6 layers. Don’t go above 20% after that.
@@KevinGroninga3D Right now I'm printing at 100 speed with 100 flow, and it's going ok-ish, I'd say...
264 at the nozzle and, 15 fan. It passed the point where the last one failed.
And yes, the fan is off first few layers.
I'll try 95 speed with 95 flow if this fails.
@@ragnarfpv5434 you’re still printing too fast…. Try slowing down to 20-30mm and see how that goes. You’re not going to be able to print recycled PET at the same speeds you would with PLA and such. Just give it a try….
@@KevinGroninga3D I understand. Thanks a lot .
If you're using Cura, you can download my PET printer/filament profiles from my LinkTree page. I'm using these on an Ender 3 v2 with a Slice Engineering all metal heat-break. But it might also be a good starting point for you. Click on this link, then go to the very bottom. linktr.ee/kevingroninga3d
So whats the secret of happy PET printing? Nozzle at 257-258C, bed at 70-80C, cooling is at around 40-60% and what about the speed of printing? Thanks in advance!
Yes, nozzle at 257-258C, I run my bed at about 73C. I NEVER run the part cooling fans above 25%. In the first few layers the fan is off, and then slowly ramps up to 25% as I get to about layer 8 or 10. As far as the print speed, it's pretty slow. (Reference the 'short' video that I just published.) I have mine set at only 17mm/s. And sometimes I might bump it to 20mm/s, but never faster. If you try to print too fast, the nozzle will act like it's clogging.
good idea to wear some ear plugs in case you pop to bottle with the air pressure, however unlikely.
Certainly! I know when soda bottles do explode they are very, very loud! That’s also why I try to not put to much pressure in them. Just enough to keep them from shrinking when the heat is applied.
Have you tried welding it while it’s flat
That won't work at all. That part where the two ribbons come together would never pull through the nozzle. It would just get stuck no matter how hard you pull on it. It can only be joined together after it's been rounded into filament.
@@KevinGroninga3D thanks for the response and saving the disaster I was thinking of doing
@@Kanect When the ribbon is the correct width (based on its thickness) it will pull with quite a bit of tension anyway. But if you double it up, it will absolutely not work. You aren't melting the plastic, you're merely warming it enough to soften it so that it can be rolled into a tube as it is pulled through the nozzle...
Hi bro. How wide is the pet bottle yarn?
The width of the ribbon varies depending upon the thickness of the PET plastic.
@@KevinGroninga3D
usually in about how many bro? I have a problem with PET yarn that is not the same thickness.
@@bearman1810 what is the exact thickness of your plastic bottles?
Can u share the Marlin files?
Do you mean the version of Marlin that I’m running on my Pultruder machine? Keep in mind that it’s an old version of Marlin that originally came from TH-cam creator MR3DP and I’ve further modified it to also work with a filament-out sensor.
how did you put it in gcode to use the end of filament sensor?
If you’re talking about the ‘filament out’ sensor, that’s not the gcode. That is configured within the Marlin software and causes the printer to run the M600 routine when the sensor detects the filament is gone and sends a signal to the printer (or to a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint).
Now there’s also a way to cause a ‘filament change’ to occur at a given layer height. I use Cura for my slicer software and there’s a way to configure that during slicing. You can tell it to send an M600 at specified layers, allowing you to change colors at various levels.
@@KevinGroninga3D I configured everything in marlin but it doesn't work when I use gcode to print via SD, I thought it was due to my gcode missing the m600 code
@@pablorodrigues1837 is your filament out sensor correctly wired to the proper pins on the motherboard of the printer? If you’re looking to have the printer properly handle when you’ve run out of filament, then you need to do the research on how that sensor is to be connected to your specific motherboard. There are typically three wires with a single 3pin connector at the end. This is usually popped into a socket on the motherboard. Since I don’t know what sensor you are using or even what printer you have, I can’t help you with that part. But if you start searching TH-cam, you can probably find something about it, how it’s wired, where it’s connected and the correct setting in Marlin firmware. And I don’t mean just playing with the settings on your printer screen. You have to know how to actually get into the Marlin code, make the correct changes, compile it, put it on your SD card and flash that firmware to your printer.
@@KevinGroninga3D yes, i changed everything in marlin, i mounted my printer so i know what i'm doing, however, i don't know what could be wrong, maybe my switch has a problem, i'll test it with another one, just to know that the problem isn't the gcode so everything is fine, thanks for the answers, and I am using an arduino mega with ramps 1.4 and I used the servo connector, I will try to change the input as well
@@pablorodrigues1837 does your sensor have three wires? Is there a light in it that is either on or off when there is filament? And when you remove the filament, does the light change? If all those things are true and if it’s correctly connected to the motherboard, then it might be something with the changes you made in Marlin. When I built my Pultruder machine, that version of Marlin had nothing set for filament runout and I remember having to make quite a few changes before it correctly recognized when the switch in the sensor was either opened or closed (depending on the type of switch and how it’s wired.).
When correctly configured, Marlin will issue its own M600 command which will do the following. Stop, lift the print head x millimeters (you define that), it will then go to a place in the build area you define, it will purge x millimeters of filament (you define), and then it will back out any remaining filament of x millimeters (you define) and then it should beep letting you know to add filament. Once loaded, you respond to the message, it should purge a bit more filament, then go back over the print, lower the nozzle back to its original height and continue the print from there.
I have 3d printer but No money 2 buy filament I need ur machine
There are a number of ways to make a ‘Pultruder’ machine. Just Google ‘Pultruder’ or PET Filament and you’ll find many to choose from. Like RePET. Petamentor to name just a couple. My machine uses a RAMPS v1.4 board and Arduino Mega (guts of an old 3D printer), but other designs use more simplistic Heat controls and motor speed controllers. You basically need a hot-end from a 3D printer where the heat block and nozzle have been drilled out to the correct size and then some way to control the speed of the motor that drives the take-up gear and spool.
I forgot that almost any plastic can be printed.
PET is a natural because it so plentiful. But printing it requires the printer being able to handle about 260 Celsius for long periods. But I’m sure HDPE or LDPE could be done too.
@@KevinGroninga3D true so what mods do you recomend that can help me print recycled plastic more efficiently
@@Zane-It you’ll want to have an all metal heat break in the hot end. Having the Bowden tube touch the nozzle is bad, it will cook off and then clog. Check Slice Engineering for that.
@@Zane-It I also insulated the underside of the bed to help retain the heat more efficiently. PET needs to print slow and with just a very small amount of part cooling. Like PETG In some regards.
@@Zane-It Here’s the link to Slice Engineering and their copperhead heat breaks. I think they support multiple machines with diff size here. www.sliceengineering.com/products/copperhead-heat-break
Can I get your email? I am making one of these recyclers and need advice
Hmm, I’d rather not post my private email address out in the open. But if you want to leave your email address, then I can respond to that. Seem fair?