I build my own wood arrows. I always choose the highest spine, 80-85. 75-80 would work too but I like heaviest spined cedar arrows I can get. Thick ones too ,23/64. They seem to shoot really quiet and hit hard. I shoot them out of a #35 bow all the way up to a #65 bow. A 135 grain zwickey 2-blade up front. I stain them and dip them into clear blue lacquer twice to add a little extra weight. I think everyone should start out with some cedar arrows and then eventually transition to carbon or aluminum. New cedar arrows are strong. Old ones that have been laying around forever seem to get a little more brittle if you hit something hard. Good thing about practicing with cedar is that when you switch to carbon arrows, it's amazing how accurate the carbon arrows shoot..
Excelente video, Yo utilizo casi los mismos parámetros. Solo adicionaría que puedes adicionar peso en la retaguardia para reducir la flexibilidad de la flecha. Gracias por le explicación Great video, I use the same parameters . I just would like to add: it is possible to increment the stiffness of a shaft, adding weight on the rear of the arrows. Thanks a lot for the explanation.
So if im pulling 58/60lb and have 150g tips then I’ll want a spine that’s 300? If im understanding you correctly? I’m still iffy on the spine grains, lower the number the stiffer it is yes? Did I get that correctly?
Wool on string mercury style string Wes Wallace recuve 48 pounds @28 arrow size 29 inches. Shoot Split finger also do use cat whisker On some strings. Like to get a 500 Or 400. Want to shoot 250 up front Bow is cut past center. What should I get for shafts. Thanks
Disclaimer* this is my best guess and by no means a guarantee. If you're hard pressed to run a 29" arrow, you'd be closer to the 500/600 camp. Arrow length has a lot to do with dynamic spine. My hunting build is usually pretty darn similar to yours 50#, 250 up front, 400 spine, but that is with a full length (32") arrow. I like the full length arrow for bringing my point on way in. Hope that helps.
Ima begginer at archery, using a recruve bow, my draw length is 24" inches, i use a 20-25 lbs bow draw weight...what arrows should i be using and spine? Right now i use cheap wooden ones with plastic feltching
I measured my draw length at 29 inches. My longbow has 25 lbs printed on it, but using a scale, at 29 inches draw, the scale reads 26.5 pounds. I have 100g and 150g practice points. Arrow length is 32 inches. But I have also tried 30", 31" and 34" arrows. I'm just a beginner and trying to research arrows. But it's a mystery shrouded in fog. I feel like 400 or 500 spine, 100g, 32 inch arrows hit the 10 ring more often. If I go to 150g points, I tend to shoot low, hit the bottom on the 9 ring. 4 inch turkey feathers too. Any advice is welcome.
I chronographed a Flemish string with 4 yarn puffs vs 4 string leeches and the speed loss was, virtually, identical-4.5 fps loss. The yarns puffs were significantly lighter. The leeches, despite being heavier, did not affect speed more than the puffs, but were, in my setup, quieter. This reminds me of feathers vs vanes; despite vanes being much heavier than feathers and the intitial speed being identical....the vanes will outcast( shoot further) than feathers.
Thanks so much for giving some rough starting points, I'm having some trouble deciding which arrows to buy for this traditional longbow with no rest (the Alibow takedown English longbow). So an arrow should be weaker if the rest is cut past center, but it still has a rest, just not a wire rest. Or do you mean with a wire rest, because that would make more sense to me. But I've heard that a trad bow without a rest should also be a bit softer because the arrow has to bend around the handle of the bow itself. The bow is 20lb and I'm going to try some 30" 1000sp arrows with 80gr points. I can take off 20gr with the break off weights and same with the 120gr points I have. Is that a good starting point?
The rest doesn't have nearly as much to do with the spine of the arrow unless you combine a wire rest with a plunger. I would start you off with the same arrow if you were shooting off your hand or if there was a stick on rest of sorts (unless the rest pushes your arrow considerably further out away from center). Try those 1000 spines, I would leave the full 80s in there, or if you have hot melt, then throw 80s in a couple and 120s in a couple and see which does best. Not shelf style longbows (the riser isn't cutout) aren't typically my wheelhouse, but it sounds like you're in the ballpark.
Is a gamegetter, 31.5" long, 500 spine with a 100 grain glued in tip, too stiff for a 37# recurve bow at 29" draw length? Could I cut it and add more weight on the tips, to keep it flexible enough? Thanks!
It sounds stiff to me. Lot of variables to that but I would say that's a bit stiffer than Ive run for similar bow setups. Do they fly poorly with feathers?
All kind of funny stuff.. Always interesting. Should be simpler.. Good Firm. Bow weight, point weight, arrow length... best arrow balance for speed and stability...but No. Thanks for making it look even more complicated. Lol
Thank you! I have no idea what I’m doing but I’m glad to know how to build these and how they differ.
Great info. No fluff, straight to the point. Thanks...
Well done, it was technical, an informative for beginners
Thanks a lot this help a bunch. I do arrow building with my compound and just making sure same rule apply when it comes to adding weight 👍
Very good information! Thanks!
Outstanding info!
Thank you!
Beat explaining on arrows I’ve seen thanks man
Interesting shooting 70" 30lbs, every chart I have looked at says 500 spine is what I should be using?
I build my own wood arrows. I always choose the highest spine, 80-85. 75-80 would work too but I like heaviest spined cedar arrows I can get. Thick ones too ,23/64. They seem to shoot really quiet and hit hard. I shoot them out of a #35 bow all the way up to a #65 bow. A 135 grain zwickey 2-blade up front. I stain them and dip them into clear blue lacquer twice to add a little extra weight. I think everyone should start out with some cedar arrows and then eventually transition to carbon or aluminum. New cedar arrows are strong. Old ones that have been laying around forever seem to get a little more brittle if you hit something hard. Good thing about practicing with cedar is that when you switch to carbon arrows, it's amazing how accurate the carbon arrows shoot..
Great Chart!
Excelente video, Yo utilizo casi los mismos parámetros. Solo adicionaría que puedes adicionar peso en la retaguardia para reducir la flexibilidad de la flecha. Gracias por le explicación
Great video, I use the same parameters . I just would like to add: it is possible to increment the stiffness of a shaft, adding weight on the rear of the arrows. Thanks a lot for the explanation.
Thank you for this (and, whew, thank goodness you put on that flannel shirt!) Seriously, though. I AM a reader; where is your article, too?
Great video - thanks!!
So if im pulling 58/60lb and have 150g tips then I’ll want a spine that’s 300? If im understanding you correctly? I’m still iffy on the spine grains, lower the number the stiffer it is yes? Did I get that correctly?
Wool on string mercury style string
Wes Wallace recuve 48 pounds
@28 arrow size 29 inches. Shoot
Split finger also do use cat whisker
On some strings. Like to get a 500
Or 400. Want to shoot 250 up front
Bow is cut past center.
What should I get for shafts.
Thanks
Disclaimer* this is my best guess and by no means a guarantee. If you're hard pressed to run a 29" arrow, you'd be closer to the 500/600 camp. Arrow length has a lot to do with dynamic spine. My hunting build is usually pretty darn similar to yours 50#, 250 up front, 400 spine, but that is with a full length (32") arrow. I like the full length arrow for bringing my point on way in. Hope that helps.
I'm longbow and recurve. 45#. 31" arrows. I only have the 400 spine arrows available. What do I need to do to make this work
Ima begginer at archery, using a recruve bow, my draw length is 24" inches, i use a 20-25 lbs bow draw weight...what arrows should i be using and spine? Right now i use cheap wooden ones with plastic feltching
I measured my draw length at 29 inches. My longbow has 25 lbs printed on it, but using a scale, at 29 inches draw, the scale reads 26.5 pounds. I have 100g and 150g practice points. Arrow length is 32 inches. But I have also tried 30", 31" and 34" arrows. I'm just a beginner and trying to research arrows. But it's a mystery shrouded in fog. I feel like 400 or 500 spine, 100g, 32 inch arrows hit the 10 ring more often. If I go to 150g points, I tend to shoot low, hit the bottom on the 9 ring. 4 inch turkey feathers too. Any advice is welcome.
I chronographed a Flemish string with 4 yarn puffs vs 4 string leeches and the speed loss was, virtually, identical-4.5 fps loss. The yarns puffs were significantly lighter. The leeches, despite being heavier, did not affect speed more than the puffs, but were, in my setup, quieter. This reminds me of feathers vs vanes; despite vanes being much heavier than feathers and the intitial speed being identical....the vanes will outcast( shoot further) than feathers.
I got a set of beaver furs for my black widow will this slow my bow a ton?
@@Boatflipit I've never used beaver fur silencers but Shatterproof archery has a video on this subject and the beaver silencers lost 5 fps.
Does this include wooden arrows?
Is there a place where we can find the article?
Thanks so much for giving some rough starting points, I'm having some trouble deciding which arrows to buy for this traditional longbow with no rest (the Alibow takedown English longbow).
So an arrow should be weaker if the rest is cut past center, but it still has a rest, just not a wire rest. Or do you mean with a wire rest, because that would make more sense to me.
But I've heard that a trad bow without a rest should also be a bit softer because the arrow has to bend around the handle of the bow itself.
The bow is 20lb and I'm going to try some 30" 1000sp arrows with 80gr points. I can take off 20gr with the break off weights and same with the 120gr points I have. Is that a good starting point?
The rest doesn't have nearly as much to do with the spine of the arrow unless you combine a wire rest with a plunger. I would start you off with the same arrow if you were shooting off your hand or if there was a stick on rest of sorts (unless the rest pushes your arrow considerably further out away from center). Try those 1000 spines, I would leave the full 80s in there, or if you have hot melt, then throw 80s in a couple and 120s in a couple and see which does best. Not shelf style longbows (the riser isn't cutout) aren't typically my wheelhouse, but it sounds like you're in the ballpark.
that's eexcellent ~ all the best~ ;)
Great info Thanks so much!
What arrow lenght for 27" draw length
Where are you (Shop) located?
You said by adding weight, it bumps you up to a higher spine. I don't understand I thought by adding weight you reduce the spine?
Adding point weight will cause you to require a stiffer spine, same thing with draw weight. Hope that clears up any confusion
Thanks!
Thank you
the video starts at 6:25.
so 25# is about a 800 spine 👍
Is a gamegetter, 31.5" long, 500 spine with a 100 grain glued in tip, too stiff for a 37# recurve bow at 29" draw length? Could I cut it and add more weight on the tips, to keep it flexible enough? Thanks!
It sounds stiff to me. Lot of variables to that but I would say that's a bit stiffer than Ive run for similar bow setups. Do they fly poorly with feathers?
Brother..... my dumbass understood this! Thank you!
LOL the flannel
All kind of funny stuff.. Always interesting. Should be simpler.. Good Firm. Bow weight, point weight, arrow length... best arrow balance for speed and stability...but No.
Thanks for making it look even more complicated. Lol
What does wearing a flannel shirt or not have to do with it?
It was a joke ; )