You should add a little info about adding weighted inserts and how that effects wich spine you choose and the difference it makes. Arrow charts don't show anything that I know of about that. Great video
Is there a chart for added weight at your tip? I want to shoot a 150-200gr. broadhead for hunting. Like the suggestion above, I usually just go to the next stiffer spine, but sometimes I have had to jump up 2 spine measurements for a 200gr tip.
It all depends on draw length as well. Shorter draws are stiffer to begin with. Where as a 30 inch draw would prolly need to use a 250 spine to use 200 gr up front. I have 185 gr up front using 300 spine, arrows cut to 29 inches. But sadly no there is no chart that I know of for adding weight.
I agree with what Ray S said. It would be very nice if arrow makers would expand their charts to include suggestions for people who are going with heavier weights up front... It can get VERY expensive especially if you are looking at an hour drive to a shop, to figure out what you need. The "These are based on a 100 gr. point, if you use a 125 gr. point you may need to use a stiffer spine. If you use a 85 gr. point you may need to use the weaker spine." just ain't cutting it.
Easton and Gold Tip are the only ones I've seen that include explicit suggestions for these situations. Easton for example states that for every additional 25 grains over 100, you add 3lbs to your draw weight and check the corresponding row on their charts. The Gold Tips table just covers 100, 12 and 150 grain points.
I have some 30" 600 spine arrows with 75g points that shoot perfect out of my 30# bow. I got some 50# limbs, could I get these 600 spine arrows to perform the way they did on my 30# limbs if I add heavier points or inserts? (same bow, so all the geometry is the same just stronger limbs)
Nate, I've been watching several of your videos recently. Enjoy your down to earth, non pretentious presentation. Perfect for a beginner like myself to get started on knowing their equipment and gaining confidence in setting it up myself. You've earned a new subscriber!
I've been watching ranch fairy for a few weeks and I had to come back to your channel. Good stuff Nate. I'll stick to the 425ish grain bell curve arrows at 62lbs 29in draw for another year.
CX is Backwards in the bell curve. Maxima red sd 250 are weaker than 350 in spine and wgt in Gpi. But cover all draw weights with the 2. Awesome to see you posting videos still Nate!!! Shout out From Western MA!!!! #YourthegoatNate!!!
Another thing to remember, trad bows require heavier GPP arrow than compound does. 5 GPP is the lightest weight compound can shoot, for many trad bows, it's 8 GPP. So, if you shoot a 400 spine carbon arrow out of 60 lbs trad bow with standard insert and 100 grain point, you might not get 8 GPP and it will damage your bow from mild dry fire effect in continues use. So, add heavy inserts, points and move up in spine.
Maybe its because I joined a club and did the learn archery safety course. Learning how to read a spine chart is basic reading and comprehension... Most 10 year olds should be able to manage with little effort. Bow speed ...... Your draw length ....... Where the 2 cross is your arrow spine. Reading all the info on the spine chart will tell you what point weight the spine chart is based on (Usually 100 grain)
You are spot on. Taking that further you can look at the small difference between a 100 grain and a 125 grain weight and surmise the difference between 125 and 150. You can also look at different arrow lengths a couple inches longer might move you into a stiffer spine and so forth. You can extrapolate a lot of data if you can just read between the lines.
Sometimes there is a little trial and error. I was shooting 400 spine according to the charts but was having trouble with tuning. Tried some 340 spine. Big difference in performance. The charts only get you close. Testing gets you in the kill zone
So if I’ve got a 30-75lb bow and randomly adjust it to what I’m capable I have to choose a different arrow for when I want to increase my strength or weaken it
IDK, when I learned to shoot in 1980, using a browning recurve...I didnt have a bazillion choices like this. I'm not knocking the presenter, who seems like a good guy and gave a great presentation, but I cannot deny how tedious this is, and it gave me a headache. Instead, I learned to shoot anything I picked up, borrowed, or what was available at the local farm & fleet...and it forced you to focus on your technique and skill and less so on the equipment. It also gave your quary a fighting chance, so to speak. Yes, some arrows cork-screwed to the target; some sank faster than others; some the spine was off...but who cares? After I watched this, I wondered how anybody could function if they happened to use an arrow with the wrong spine, or incorrect weight, or wrong type of fletch, etc. I really believe as archery, hunting, reloading - anything outdoors - "matured" over the decades, really sucumbed to commercialism. Take for example, the 1960's 'Bear broadhead': a simple, inexpensive and 100% effective hunting point, used by hunters everywhere to bring down anything, from squirrels to elephants. Now, it's nowhere to be found, replaced by a myriad of (very expensive) different types...some with switch-blade-like extensions, and some even with LED lighting! You gotta be kidding. For me, it's all about developing skill over selecting the perfect equipment. I don't try to reach game at 100 yards, and I so I don't expect to have perfectly tuned bows and arrows to reach out that far. I feel all this needless complexity just ruins the whole experience, so try not to get too serious - keep it simple, enjoy yourself, and give the game a fair chance. Peace.
If I’m shooting 50-60 lbs at 28” DL and I’m shooting a 400 spine, what should my arrow weight be? That’s where I get confused. I know how to read spine charts, but what weight inserts and broadheads should I be using?
Jack, the question I'm proposing is would you know how many manufacturers there are who makes arrows???? I'm sure companies go to other companies to have arrows made for them???? Just curious! Thanks Jack
Love the video! But I have a question it is still confusing to me I don’t know what spine I need I shoot a Hoyt ventum 30 I’m a 29.5 in draw shooting 55 pound the arrows will be 28 when cut for the Easton axis 5mm and then running eastons half out which puts total shaft length at 28.8 with the half out at those specs what spine would you recommend because they ain’t cheap and I want to get the right arrows the first go around thank for any help you could give me on this weather I need 400 or 340 spine
Jack, another question ❓ Would you know, if cams have a affect on arrow flight? Some cans are more aggressive versus other cams which should relate to how the arrow absorbs the force differently????? Am I wrong? I know the spine chart shows 400 or 340 for me. I also realize the weight difference but one will fly differently? Also, what about the account of broadheads used and there affect on spine????? Alot of variables????? Thanks Jack!
Chose the spine based of the info on your bow, dont be distracted or over think it. Look at your bow speed... Look at your draw length... Where the 2 cross is the arrow spine you need (usually based on you using 100 grain points.) All the aggressive cams do is make your bow faster... Since spine charts have slow cam/ medium cam/fast cam options AKA BOW FPS/IBO speed. Chose the speed of your bow and your draw length. its that simple. In your example saying you need 400 or 340 spine... A slower bow/cam, you might only need a 500 spine arrow. Its not absorbing the arrow bends a little when you shoot it... So too soft a spine the arrow could actually bend too much. Most spine charts if you actually read the info on them state the spine suggestion is based on 100grain points... Read the small print A 100 grain point is a 100 grain point be it a field point or a broadhead.
Wow, I didn't know about a spine chart. What about broadhead selection, specifically referring to weight. Am I limited to what I can choose. I currently use 100 gr but a lot of videos say that a heavier broad head will mean better penetration should I hit a rib bone I guess.
30 or 40 pounds - that's A LOT of draw. Guessing they are referring to compound and probably for bow hunting. Recurve poundage for target is much lower because the draw goes straight into your arms. It's not offset by pulleys.
Plz help. I'm shooting 2 trad bows at 45# at 28" l. I'm 30" draw so I'm around 53-54#. It's for the bear super grizzly and bear montana. It's for hunting. Should I do 340 or 400 grain? What grain for tips?
Vaseline serves a bunch of uses. It's great for lubing limb pockets and keeping rust off steel parts. Just apply and wipe off excess. It also is of great benefit for me with a ton of dermatological issues with my hands. Ha!
Those spine numbers don't apply to Carbon Express arrows. Their numbers are backwards to ours. Their 150 is softer than their 250, which is softer than their 350 arrows.
Love this video! But I’m still confused 😂 I don’t know what spine I need for sure it’s like I’m border line I’m shooting a Hoyt Ventum 30 I have a 29.5 inch draw 55 pound bow weight I’ll be running hopefully Easton axis shaft will be cut at 28 inches and then running the Easton aluminum half out which will put the total arrow length at 28.5 with those specs do I need the 400 or 340 spine I’m sorry if this is a bother but those aren’t cheap arrows and I want to get it right the first time thank you for any help you can give me Nate!
Well I ordered some easton fmjs. My spine is rated for 300-250 for my bow but I thought since the fmjs have a heavier Gpi than The axis arrows I went with the 340 and a 125 grain head to have a better foc than the 300 spine. Would this work or am I wrong
hey so ive been shooting 55lbs with a 29” 200g point 340 spine. i bought some 300 spine cause i just wanted stiffer ones and they’re noticeably flying a “high tear” but still shoot accurately. in order to shoot those spines i would have to tune my bow?
Should try tuning a bell curve style arrow first. Putting the cart before the horse here. Instead of diving into the deep end with no life guard, try taking a more moderate approach and seeing how cleanly you can tune something more designe for 55/29, like a 400/340 spine with 100-150 up front total.
Got a spine question for you, im shooting a Bear Legit, 70lbs, 29" draw, arrow is actually 28" carbon to carbon, 100gr insert, 125gr point, lighted nock, 3 fletch. Going to be using fixed blade heads. Should i use 300 or 250? I have been shooting 300 bc the chart shows 340 but 225 gr is a lot of point weight so i went up one spine. Would 250 be better bc its better to be too stiff than too weak?
International Bowhunting Organization. One of the "founders" of normalizing archery things for manufacturers like how to measure speed and other specs of a bow.
@@crusher8017 It is not a public publishing. It is part of a dealer manual which includes pricing sheets and other private information. But like I said the chart itself is available online from any arrow manufacturer.
@@stevepauley2437 Pick the chart the company your buying arrows from is using. Pick using their chart and it will only give you the one block on the chart for an answer.
@@averagejackarchery so, say I’m right on the edge, of 400 and 350. Which would you pick, weaker or stiffer? I’m planning on trying 150 grains out front. Also, I’m using the Scheel’s brand Vendetta arrows, if that makes a difference. Their chart on the box has a line right between the middle of the two.
@@stevepauley2437 If there's ever a concern like this then ere on the side of caution and go with the stiffer arrow. Especially since you're looking to add more weight than "expected" out the front.
Got to remember (recurve) that arrow charts assume you're a good archer and that you're using quality kit. If you've got 40# on your fingers at 29", the correct arrow will be different if you've got cheap, slow, entry level limbs and a crap loose compared with top end limbs and a buttery loose. If someone tells you that you can weaken an arrow spine by putting 120gn points in instead of 100gn, yeah, they're right but you're not going to see that effect until you're capable of shooting 1200. So much BS propagated by coaches who don't shoot (and who were never that good anyway), and armchair archers. There were blokes at my club who were shooting around 1000 but dishing out all sorts of 'knowledge'. If you're a noob, go and find the highest scoring archer in your club and listen to them. Leave the keyboard warriors and the low-scoring kit freaks to themselves, use the charts as a start point and expect to buy more than one set as you find your match. There's no easy fix; put in the hard work. You'll be rewarded for your efforts.
Ive also found that. That slow cheap entry level kit and slightly out of spine (usually too stiff) arrows is plenty enough for 90% of archers shooting 20 to 50 yards.... Once they progress to shooting 60 yards and over. That is where the better kit and tuned arrows start to make the difference.
![[ ออกกอง ] วัยหนุ่ม 2544 โลกหลังลูกกรง..ทัวร์กองถ่ายหนังใน "คุกของจริง" | JUSTดูIT.](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vB--aOkZCpw/mqdefault.jpg)
You should add a little info about adding weighted inserts and how that effects wich spine you choose and the difference it makes. Arrow charts don't show anything that I know of about that. Great video
Dido this guy
I agree
If you're going to add weight up front to make a huge FOC arrow, then go to the next arrow up on the spine chart.
Is there a chart for added weight at your tip? I want to shoot a 150-200gr. broadhead for hunting. Like the suggestion above, I usually just go to the next stiffer spine, but sometimes I have had to jump up 2 spine measurements for a 200gr tip.
It all depends on draw length as well. Shorter draws are stiffer to begin with. Where as a 30 inch draw would prolly need to use a 250 spine to use 200 gr up front. I have 185 gr up front using 300 spine, arrows cut to 29 inches. But sadly no there is no chart that I know of for adding weight.
I agree with what Ray S said. It would be very nice if arrow makers would expand their charts to include suggestions for people who are going with heavier weights up front... It can get VERY expensive especially if you are looking at an hour drive to a shop, to figure out what you need. The "These are based on a 100 gr. point, if you use a 125 gr. point you may need to use a stiffer spine. If you use a 85 gr. point you may need to use the weaker spine." just ain't cutting it.
Easton and Gold Tip are the only ones I've seen that include explicit suggestions for these situations. Easton for example states that for every additional 25 grains over 100, you add 3lbs to your draw weight and check the corresponding row on their charts. The Gold Tips table just covers 100, 12 and 150 grain points.
I have some 30" 600 spine arrows with 75g points that shoot perfect out of my 30# bow. I got some 50# limbs, could I get these 600 spine arrows to perform the way they did on my 30# limbs if I add heavier points or inserts? (same bow, so all the geometry is the same just stronger limbs)
Nate, I've been watching several of your videos recently. Enjoy your down to earth, non pretentious presentation. Perfect for a beginner like myself to get started on knowing their equipment and gaining confidence in setting it up myself. You've earned a new subscriber!
Appreciate it!
Thank you Jack! Just now getting into bow hunting and your videos have helped me tremendously!
Awesome chart ,I zoomed in and figured mine out.
Great video .. love arrow stuff!
I've been watching ranch fairy for a few weeks and I had to come back to your channel. Good stuff Nate. I'll stick to the 425ish grain bell curve arrows at 62lbs 29in draw for another year.
Welcome back to the dark side. We have rational thoughts and cookies. It's a good time 😁
Al least make sure you shoot 'cut on contact' fixed blade broadhead and not mechanical.
I almost fell down the ranch fairy rabbit whole. Almost!
He has the fairy part right.
CX is Backwards in the bell curve. Maxima red sd 250 are weaker than 350 in spine and wgt in Gpi. But cover all draw weights with the 2. Awesome to see you posting videos still Nate!!! Shout out From Western MA!!!! #YourthegoatNate!!!
Another thing to remember, trad bows require heavier GPP arrow than compound does. 5 GPP is the lightest weight compound can shoot, for many trad bows, it's 8 GPP. So, if you shoot a 400 spine carbon arrow out of 60 lbs trad bow with standard insert and 100 grain point, you might not get 8 GPP and it will damage your bow from mild dry fire effect in continues use. So, add heavy inserts, points and move up in spine.
Most 'real' trad shooters that I know use wooden arrow shafts.. Carbon arrows are the devil or something
Thank you soo much!
Maybe its because I joined a club and did the learn archery safety course.
Learning how to read a spine chart is basic reading and comprehension... Most 10 year olds should be able to manage with little effort.
Bow speed ...... Your draw length ....... Where the 2 cross is your arrow spine.
Reading all the info on the spine chart will tell you what point weight the spine chart is based on (Usually 100 grain)
You are spot on. Taking that further you can look at the small difference between a 100 grain and a 125 grain weight and surmise the difference between 125 and 150. You can also look at different arrow lengths a couple inches longer might move you into a stiffer spine and so forth. You can extrapolate a lot of data if you can just read between the lines.
Where did you get that book? 😂 and what’s it called? Love to find the PDF.
Sometimes there is a little trial and error. I was shooting 400 spine according to the charts but was having trouble with tuning. Tried some 340 spine. Big difference in performance. The charts only get you close. Testing gets you in the kill zone
Thanks. Good video
So if I’ve got a 30-75lb bow and randomly adjust it to what I’m capable I have to choose a different arrow for when I want to increase my strength or weaken it
IDK, when I learned to shoot in 1980, using a browning recurve...I didnt have a bazillion choices like this. I'm not knocking the presenter, who seems like a good guy and gave a great presentation, but I cannot deny how tedious this is, and it gave me a headache. Instead, I learned to shoot anything I picked up, borrowed, or what was available at the local farm & fleet...and it forced you to focus on your technique and skill and less so on the equipment. It also gave your quary a fighting chance, so to speak. Yes, some arrows cork-screwed to the target; some sank faster than others; some the spine was off...but who cares? After I watched this, I wondered how anybody could function if they happened to use an arrow with the wrong spine, or incorrect weight, or wrong type of fletch, etc. I really believe as archery, hunting, reloading - anything outdoors - "matured" over the decades, really sucumbed to commercialism. Take for example, the 1960's 'Bear broadhead': a simple, inexpensive and 100% effective hunting point, used by hunters everywhere to bring down anything, from squirrels to elephants. Now, it's nowhere to be found, replaced by a myriad of (very expensive) different types...some with switch-blade-like extensions, and some even with LED lighting! You gotta be kidding. For me, it's all about developing skill over selecting the perfect equipment. I don't try to reach game at 100 yards, and I so I don't expect to have perfectly tuned bows and arrows to reach out that far. I feel all this needless complexity just ruins the whole experience, so try not to get too serious - keep it simple, enjoy yourself, and give the game a fair chance. Peace.
If I’m shooting 50-60 lbs at 28” DL and I’m shooting a 400 spine, what should my arrow weight be? That’s where I get confused. I know how to read spine charts, but what weight inserts and broadheads should I be using?
Standard inserts, and anything from 100-150 grain broadheads is very normal. I personally shoot 125 grain heads.
Jack, the question I'm proposing is would you know how many manufacturers there are who makes arrows???? I'm sure companies go to other companies to have arrows made for them???? Just curious! Thanks Jack
Easton, Victory, Gold Tip, and Black Eagle are made in independent plants from each other. Others I cannot attest for as I don't know.
Love the video! But I have a question it is still confusing to me I don’t know what spine I need I shoot a Hoyt ventum 30 I’m a 29.5 in draw shooting 55 pound the arrows will be 28 when cut for the Easton axis 5mm and then running eastons half out which puts total shaft length at 28.8 with the half out at those specs what spine would you recommend because they ain’t cheap and I want to get the right arrows the first go around thank for any help you could give me on this weather I need 400 or 340 spine
@@sheldonwalters79 350 would be the best compromise..
What about arrow weight? And is arrow weight measured with or without a broad head/field point?
What is the book you have there? I'd love to get myself one
It's an arrow catalogue I get as a dealer. But all of those charts can be found online for any brand with a simple Google search!
Jack, another question ❓ Would you know, if cams have a affect on arrow flight? Some cans are more aggressive versus other cams which should relate to how the arrow absorbs the force differently????? Am I wrong? I know the spine chart shows 400 or 340 for me. I also realize the weight difference but one will fly differently? Also, what about the account of broadheads used and there affect on spine????? Alot of variables????? Thanks Jack!
Chose the spine based of the info on your bow, dont be distracted or over think it.
Look at your bow speed... Look at your draw length... Where the 2 cross is the arrow spine you need (usually based on you using 100 grain points.)
All the aggressive cams do is make your bow faster... Since spine charts have slow cam/ medium cam/fast cam options AKA BOW FPS/IBO speed. Chose the speed of your bow and your draw length. its that simple.
In your example saying you need 400 or 340 spine... A slower bow/cam, you might only need a 500 spine arrow. Its not absorbing the arrow bends a little when you shoot it... So too soft a spine the arrow could actually bend too much.
Most spine charts if you actually read the info on them state the spine suggestion is based on 100grain points... Read the small print
A 100 grain point is a 100 grain point be it a field point or a broadhead.
@@sahhullwhat if the chart says I need a 400, but I’m running 200 grains, out front?
Wow, I didn't know about a spine chart. What about broadhead selection, specifically referring to weight. Am I limited to what I can choose. I currently use 100 gr but a lot of videos say that a heavier broad head will mean better penetration should I hit a rib bone I guess.
30 or 40 pounds - that's A LOT of draw.
Guessing they are referring to compound and probably for bow hunting. Recurve poundage for target is much lower because the draw goes straight into your arms. It's not offset by pulleys.
Where do you obtain this book?
Plz help. I'm shooting 2 trad bows at 45# at 28" l. I'm 30" draw so I'm around 53-54#. It's for the bear super grizzly and bear montana. It's for hunting. Should I do 340 or 400 grain? What grain for tips?
Great video. Have to ask...what is the giant jar of Vaseline off to the left for?
Vaseline serves a bunch of uses. It's great for lubing limb pockets and keeping rust off steel parts. Just apply and wipe off excess. It also is of great benefit for me with a ton of dermatological issues with my hands. Ha!
Ha! Makes sense. Also, what catalog is that you are using? Looks like a bunch of great info in it. @@averagejackarchery
It's a dealer catalogue I get from archery suppliers. But they're just amassing the charts easily found online from all manufacturers.
Those spine numbers don't apply to Carbon Express arrows. Their numbers are backwards to ours. Their 150 is softer than their 250, which is softer than their 350 arrows.
Love this video! But I’m still confused 😂 I don’t know what spine I need for sure it’s like I’m border line I’m shooting a Hoyt Ventum 30 I have a 29.5 inch draw 55 pound bow weight I’ll be running hopefully Easton axis shaft will be cut at 28 inches and then running the Easton aluminum half out which will put the total arrow length at 28.5 with those specs do I need the 400 or 340 spine I’m sorry if this is a bother but those aren’t cheap arrows and I want to get it right the first time thank you for any help you can give me Nate!
Here's what I have to say about that! th-cam.com/video/dXLPV8UjH7o/w-d-xo.html
Well I ordered some easton fmjs. My spine is rated for 300-250 for my bow but I thought since the fmjs have a heavier Gpi than The axis arrows I went with the 340 and a 125 grain head to have a better foc than the 300 spine. Would this work or am I wrong
I’m pretty new to archery and recently got a recurve. Looking at arrows is incredibly overwhelming!
Not really. Its one of the first technical things you should learn... All you need is the ability to read.
The chart is just a rough gauge and some say it is what your minimum spine should be.
when the chart say's 500 grain do you get a 400 shaft then add 100 grain field tip to add up to 500.
David, no. The number 400 or 500 is only referencing the spine stiffness. It has nothing to do with the weight of the arrow. Hope that helps
hey so ive been shooting 55lbs with a 29” 200g point 340 spine. i bought some 300 spine cause i just wanted stiffer ones and they’re noticeably flying a “high tear” but still shoot accurately. in order to shoot those spines i would have to tune my bow?
Should try tuning a bell curve style arrow first. Putting the cart before the horse here. Instead of diving into the deep end with no life guard, try taking a more moderate approach and seeing how cleanly you can tune something more designe for 55/29, like a 400/340 spine with 100-150 up front total.
Does this include wood arrows?
Spine is spine. The makeup of the arrow doesn't really matter for a static spine chart.
Got a spine question for you, im shooting a Bear Legit, 70lbs, 29" draw, arrow is actually 28" carbon to carbon, 100gr insert, 125gr point, lighted nock, 3 fletch. Going to be using fixed blade heads. Should i use 300 or 250? I have been shooting 300 bc the chart shows 340 but 225 gr is a lot of point weight so i went up one spine. Would 250 be better bc its better to be too stiff than too weak?
My guess would be 300. The Legit is not a very aggressive bow and 300 should work just fine.
@@averagejackarchery Thanks man, love your channel, you have a lot of great info, keep it up! If im ever in PA ill definitely swing by your shop!
what book is he using i would love to get one
This is a catalogue from on of my mass distributors for the shop. But any of these can be found online using a Google search. Free to the public.
Where’s the book from?
It's a catalog from distributors. But all these charts are online from manufacturers for free.
I'm pretty new to the sport, what's IBO?
International Bowhunting Organization. One of the "founders" of normalizing archery things for manufacturers like how to measure speed and other specs of a bow.
@@averagejackarchery thank you!
What the name of that book (magazine) and were can i found it please?
Google is much better. This is a book given to dealers.
@@averagejackarchery He asked the name of the book. I would like to know as well. Why be so cryptic?
@@crusher8017 It is not a public publishing. It is part of a dealer manual which includes pricing sheets and other private information. But like I said the chart itself is available online from any arrow manufacturer.
@@averagejackarchery Cheers for that mate.
What spine would you recommend for a 26in draw @ 66lbs?
Follow. The. Chart.
@@averagejackarchery well, it gives like 2-3 different choices. I didn’t wanna buy 2-3 sets of arrows. Way to sound like a D though!
@@stevepauley2437 Pick the chart the company your buying arrows from is using. Pick using their chart and it will only give you the one block on the chart for an answer.
@@averagejackarchery so, say I’m right on the edge, of 400 and 350. Which would you pick, weaker or stiffer? I’m planning on trying 150 grains out front. Also, I’m using the Scheel’s brand Vendetta arrows, if that makes a difference. Their chart on the box has a line right between the middle of the two.
@@stevepauley2437 If there's ever a concern like this then ere on the side of caution and go with the stiffer arrow. Especially since you're looking to add more weight than "expected" out the front.
What catalog is that?
Kinsey dealer catalogue. You can find all those charts online with a Google search.
Who makes this spine chart?
Google the chart for the brand of arrows you're buying! It'll come up no problem.
@@averagejackarchery is there a book like yours. Seems quicker to reference it on the bench being old school
@@cmack003 This is a catalogue for dealers of major arrow brands.
Nate, not everyone has access to a Kinsey's catalog.
Say the word hipster.... SAY IT!! TRADITIONAL
👍🏹🎯
Got to remember (recurve) that arrow charts assume you're a good archer and that you're using quality kit. If you've got 40# on your fingers at 29", the correct arrow will be different if you've got cheap, slow, entry level limbs and a crap loose compared with top end limbs and a buttery loose. If someone tells you that you can weaken an arrow spine by putting 120gn points in instead of 100gn, yeah, they're right but you're not going to see that effect until you're capable of shooting 1200. So much BS propagated by coaches who don't shoot (and who were never that good anyway), and armchair archers. There were blokes at my club who were shooting around 1000 but dishing out all sorts of 'knowledge'. If you're a noob, go and find the highest scoring archer in your club and listen to them. Leave the keyboard warriors and the low-scoring kit freaks to themselves, use the charts as a start point and expect to buy more than one set as you find your match. There's no easy fix; put in the hard work. You'll be rewarded for your efforts.
Ive also found that. That slow cheap entry level kit and slightly out of spine (usually too stiff) arrows is plenty enough for 90% of archers shooting 20 to 50 yards.... Once they progress to shooting 60 yards and over. That is where the better kit and tuned arrows start to make the difference.
why only shoot 60 lbs ? dont you want to kill a moose one day ? youll need more then 60 for longer yardage and power