Really glad to see you use shims all the way around the voice coil. Some believe three is enough but the more you use the better the overall alignment and consistency of the clearance through the full voice coil excursion.
Back in Thailand, we use (developed) film for shims and it works quite well. You can see it all the times on the streets around "Ban Moh" area in Bangkok.
Clearly you are a person of incredible skill as you repaired that speaker rather effortlessly, making no mistake, doing each step perfectly (please no need for modesty). What I'd love to know is how many people inspired by how you made it look so simple gave it a try and simply destroyed what they were working on, because it's more than just knowing what to do, it's knowing how to do what you are doing extremely well. Great video, regardless!
This is quite possibly one of the best videos I've seen on re-coning a driver so far. I have a set of Behringer VP2520 cabs that are rated for 2000 watts. In reality the drivers are rated for 250 watts RMS and are wired in parallel. Assuming the rating on the cabinet was correct I drove them at 1000 watts which has noticeably damaged the motors. I'll be doing this same thing 4 times fairly soon. Thanks for the great video. Keep up the good work.
You know, I have never seen a speaker refit before. Kinda wants me to give it a go. Great video, couldn't take my eyes off the procedure for one moment !
As a PRO live sound technician with roughly 40 years of experience, I have to agree with the pro audio vs car subwoofer comments. This is a PRO audio driver -- a completely different animal than a CAR subwoofer. A car audio enthusiast criticizing this speaker is like a motorcyclist criticizing a football helmet! I have no disrespect for car audio enthusiasts, bassheads, or whatever they want to be called; if you're having fun, then have at it! However, the vast majority of these "professionals" wouldn't have a CLUE what to do if they sat down behind a console and a rack of amps and processors! Quite frankly, regardless of my pro audio experience, if I wanted an efficient, powerful subwoofer in my car, I would probably get a basshead to help me build it.
@Jay B You do realize that this is a loudspeaker not a car sub woofer, also you must not know that this is rated at 123db continuous and it is extremely unlikely you can find a replacement 10 inch capable of that for 100 dollars.
the "basket" is the metal part of a speaker. The part he replaced is the cone and voice coil from a "Re-cone kit". Cheaper subs do NOT have re-cone kits for them.
I've got to say you did such a great professional job. I've watched couple of these and every other doesn't compare to the job you did. I hope you get paid well for jobs like these buddy ;)
Funny how some ppl say they would just go buy a new one. There is some satisfaction in repairing something. That would be like buying a new car because the motor or trans blew in it. If you have some skills and knowledge why not save a few bucks. Seems like smart money to me. I repaired my Cerwin Vega subs and they work like new.
1:24 This is big reconing mistake when gluing the spider. You should only press down on the glue area to avoid putting some lateral tension that could de-center the coil once you remove the shims. When gluing the dust cap put a weight (coffee mug or glass) before pouring the glue around. This will prevent glue from running past the dust cap onto your voice coil. After reconing a LF woofer an extensive speaker burn-in might be welcome. Nice job ;)
Everyone talking shit about him repairing that speaker should keep their comments to themselves. Obviously you know nothing about speakers. It is a PA speaker. I don't know about the new Turbosound speakers since they were bought out, but the older ones were quite good. This is a loudspeaker, not a subwoofer. You probably don't even know what a quality subwoofer is either.
well, I definitely tore up my share of speakers in the past! Practice makes perfect with anything. I encourage anyone with skilled hands to try, but maybe with a cheaper speaker first!
I'm laughing at all these "car woofer heads" calling that a crap speaker because it has a lower XMAX than a comparable car woofer. This speaker is designed for midbass in a high volume setting with a very large enclosure possibly with some kind of horn loading involved. Car woofers are designed for smaller enclosures and use higher wattage amplifiers to make up for the lack of acoustics said smaller enclosures have. This speaker would own a car woofer in an efficiency rating test, accuracy test, and longevity test. This is a professional audio woofer, not some overpriced toy designed to advertise to all the thugs in the area to bust out your vehicle's glass and steal your system for a quick buck.
Scioneer where did I say car woofer? Those two words never mentioned by me until now. Now it being a PA speaker then it is only good for voices nothing else. I have quality sound in my home and car. No has taken anything from either place.
Virtually all high-end pro audio subs have a removable magnet for maintenance/reconing. Remove the magnet, THEN clean the gap. It's a hell of a lot more thorough. If you miss just one tiny crumb of copper, piece of steel wool, or melted enamel, then it's just a matter of time before it gets wedged into the gap and destroys the voice coil...
its a hi fidelity speaker. you dont really see the value in parts and design. its more of an integral electrical componenent that is finely tuned by expert engineers. whenever you hear live music, its most likely through paper speakers with a cloth or paper surround.
tip, if your going to fast forward through the parts where you talk, could you put some sub-titles or something? that would help a lot, GREAT video BTW.
Frequency response is a much more costly engineering science than SPL (decibel). For many reasons, pro audio is a superior technology. One recording studio can cost MILLIONS!!! Live venues can be astonishing. There is a reason for that. Car audio is only replaying what pro audio created in the first place. You can't compare the 2
From the Tower Beacon by the door and a few other old pieces of equipment, it would appear you are a Broadcast Engineer or at least a radio fan. Enjoyed the video.
Nice work! Btw you have a bit of distortion on the end of the vid, a trick I used at raves when making videos is to cover my phones mic with my vingers, muffles the bass away enough to keep everything crystal and audible ;)
Very nice job and funny to see all the high speed with the normal-pitch audio. Especially when it's extra fast and I hear your voice, but it is so fast it is unintelligible. I also recognized that room you were in, with the Fisher radio and amp, speakers and 8-track player, and the Superscope cassette recorder with no cassette door and corroded battery compartment!
OK video, BUT...using steel wool (to clean glue residue off) around that strong magnet is way baaaad, and NOT recommended...if ANY even tiny particles get sucked up and into the voice-coil area, they will be difficult, if not impossible to remove, and all of your work is for nothing when they make contact with the voice-coil. I'd also vacuum out debris from voice-coil area, not just blow it around (but sticky paper was a good idea!)
Ronplucksstrings You know your stuff Ron. Steel Wool would be about the last thing you want around that magnet structure. Undoubtedly some fibers will make their way into the VC slot and near impossible to remove and certainly no fun. Vacuuming as well should be done in the cleaning process. In the end the woofer was re-coned and seemingly working properly. With more practice some of the sloppiness will probably improve.
Thank you for not explaining how to scrape a gasket off a speaker basket. Some videos seem like they're geared towards people who can't even tie their shoes and it makes it very difficult to watch. I've don't this over 50 and I don't even know why I watch but...
The basket, magnet and caps were all that was left. That's not unblowing, it's rebuilding. I personally found it very interesting to see this done. There was wait time for the glue to dry too. That was a 15"? This rebuild was worth the work done because I think 12 and 15" speakers aren't being built anymore or close to it, from what I have read. I just had 2 dust covers replaced on my Pioneers and new caps installed on one of them and they are 12" woofers, buying an active 1000 watt sub to accompany them will help them, so I did and that is a 12" as well, lol, wall shakers.
@@johnnycee5179 granted, I'm not as experienced as the vast majority, but once a speaker is blown, it's trash. Or you can rebuild it like here. Somebody correct me me if I'm wrong. If the cone is shot but the coil is still good it can be rigged, repaired kinda, repaired, or repurposed altogether into a vibration exciter or a bass shaker and I don't know what else. TH-cam dml or flat panel speaker and bass shaker diy if you haven't already, they're awesome. But he said and demonstrated here the coil was very very shot. Only way to fix that that I know of is re-cone it like he did here
@@johnnycee5179 oh yeah, and TH-cam 21 inch, 33 inch, and the latest and greatest 80 inch subwoofer. Yes, that's correct, 6 foot, 2 meter diameter subwoofer. It lifts the room built around it
Cool video. So the dust cap is it necessary for the performance of the speaker overall? I know dust isn't good for the coil but will a speaker still work the same without the dust cover?
Pain in the ass! Using enough shims and getting the coil centered perfectly isn't always easy. I've fixed speakers where it moved in and out fine but as soon as some bass got to it, it started scratching inside again.
I'm probably going to have to do the same to an Eminence 3012lf after not using a high pass on a loud bedroom testing. Coil is probably fine as it was nowhere near its thermal limit, but voice coil is slightly dented from hitting the back and it rubs.
wow, great video, thanks, need to repair my ar3 a woofer and ar lst woofer. Both must be blown because they don't put out sound any longer. Thanks again
You can use regular cooking oil like olive or rapeseed oil to get rid of the glue. Just spread it on amply, let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe off. You'll need to clean it all off with acetone after wiping.
OR!!! you can just use some rubbing alcohol and it just wipes clean off and cost less than that oil or acetone. It's even very quick!!! I had to use it to get adhesive glue off my windows taking tint off that was on a 93 truck since it was made!!! Gets the job done quick!!! Oh and this guy knows how to really save some money too!!! Love the vid
If you have the time and it comes out properly cheaper (I'm not talking about saving $5) then it's cool. Nothing gives the satisfaction quite like having something work that you have built/fixed. Otherwise it's not really worth it. My friend wanted me to re-cone a pair of JVC UX-B1005's. That's a bit ridiculous.
A nice work but…The cone was good. The spider was good. The only thing that was damage was the voice coil and this was the only thing that needed to be replaced.
This brand wants to be "stylish" even with the part of the speaker you'll almost never see: the voicecoil. They go to all the trouble of painting it black... Nice! :D
I've had a few where the cone was torn and the easy fix was to use the no tear paper from the USPS and some rubber glue. I let it dry letting it sit all day in the sun then next day I put the speak back in and the speaker sounds just like new.
You keep the basket and the motor structure. It is called reconing a speaker. not unbolwing. For the speaker that he reconed it probably wasn't worth it. I have a $400 15" and the recone cost $190.
Quick story and a question for you, I bought two vintage Jensen 6X9 speakers. Using a multimeter one of the speakers was fine, the other I couldn't get a reading anywhere but when I hooked it up to a small amp, there was a small delay and then miraculously sizzled back to life, but with a coil rub sound. Is it possible that if speaker was blown before might have caused a short, fooling a my multimeter?
Nice Video. Some people man...who cares what the title is. I knew exactly what he was talking about. My question is, Did the glue you use come with the repair Kit? if not what two types of glue are you using? Does anyone know what glue he used?
I'd just done a recone on my Sundown Audio SA8v2 sub and I can tell you that is was a pain in the butt to recone. It's not a hard job, but being a little 8in sub with a heavy ass magnet and the way the basket/frame is made. It leave you with little room to do the reconing. But overall, reconing a sub is a fairly easy task to do and is cheaper than buying a new sub. You just need proper tools.
Colt Ricketts for sundown audio. I get it straight from Sundown. For custom recone, I'll suggest fixmyspeaker.com or partexpreas.com. Fix my speaker is usually for people that competes and want custom made recone while parts express, they have replacement recone and parts for just about any subs or speakers out there.
What types of glue to use? Where to purchase the Glue and foam surrounds? I have 5 15", 5 12 inch, and several other smaller size speakers to replace surrounds. In my older wood cabinet floor stereo speakers. Thank You
that speaker is NOT worth 100 dollars to recone...give me a 100 dollars ill give you a 10 inch that we be louder than that...that sub is a piece of doo doo
Your 10 inch would rot out in a few years, have a sub 80db SPL, and have horrible accuracy. But sure it will be loud, using a much larger amp than this one needs to achieve the same about of decibels.
Where did you order this basket from. I need to do this for my 15” 8 ohm black widow speaker for my peavey bass cab but everything I keep finding online comes with the basket frame/cage. Please send me a link to where I might be able to purchase what I need. You are much appreciated in advance.
Great video . I have a 10" Precision Power flat piston sub that is blown. That crunchy sound when pressed on is terrible. This sub is HEAVY and I know its high quality, but how different would the repair be?
@Thom Keener Shut up! Im sorry, I did not realize that the video was titled "how to properly follow safety procedures while reconing a speaker." Now go put your knee pads and helmet back on and get in your bubble before a meteor hits you. Wouldn't want to not be wearing your safety gear when that happens.
Hi..nice vid..I hv a lil problem with my PD 1851/2...yes I blew it with the amp...now,,I hv already ordered the recone kit which is arnd 150euros, but the expected delivery date is more than a month away..I cant go on a whole month without it..so I just called a tech who does recoiling,,according to him it'll take only 3 days to get it fixed and runnin...pls tell me what are cons of recoiling..I've heard that it will never be the same as the original after recoiling... Thank you
Great informative video! I was wondering if anyone can offer some advise to a woofer speaker problem I have. Speaker not working dead no pop no hum nothing! Surround good, cone good, dust cap good, voice coil moves freely no rubbing, wire connection look good, no strong burnt smell. When I took the speaker out of the cabinet the only thing I noticed was the plug end connector came loose from the insulator. Reattached it and it made no difference. Plug speaker in different sound source dead
I have some desktop speakers I love with all my life. I mistakenly plugged in the wrong power chord and blew out my speaker. The port is fine but it blew the speaker and is like to replace it. What do y'all recommend? I'm trying to fix my grey Yamaha desktop speakers ive had since 1998. Any help is much appreciated.
@narcoti The smell of a burnt voice coil must be experienced. Take an old speaker and purposely blow it (plenty of videos on how to do that) so you can smell it. Best advice how NOT to cook your stereo speakers is to learn to identify Distortion and avoid it. I have never seen a blown speaker that was not driven to distortion first. Distortion is that sound that is kind of staticy when you turn it all the way up but it really doesn't get louder any more..
I would have used electronics cleaner.. Spray it in with the speaker facing down. It evaporates quickly and will leave the voice coil passage supper clean. I've never done this just guessing is all.
Really glad to see you use shims all the way around the voice coil. Some believe three is enough but the more you use the better the overall alignment and consistency of the clearance through the full voice coil excursion.
Back in Thailand, we use (developed) film for shims and it works quite well. You can see it all the times on the streets around "Ban Moh" area in Bangkok.
Agreed, this is one of my fav parts.
Clearly you are a person of incredible skill as you repaired that speaker rather effortlessly, making no mistake, doing each step perfectly (please no need for modesty). What I'd love to know is how many people inspired by how you made it look so simple gave it a try and simply destroyed what they were working on, because it's more than just knowing what to do, it's knowing how to do what you are doing extremely well. Great video, regardless!
This is quite possibly one of the best videos I've seen on re-coning a driver so far. I have a set of Behringer VP2520 cabs that are rated for 2000 watts. In reality the drivers are rated for 250 watts RMS and are wired in parallel. Assuming the rating on the cabinet was correct I drove them at 1000 watts which has noticeably damaged the motors. I'll be doing this same thing 4 times fairly soon. Thanks for the great video. Keep up the good work.
Best how to video I've seen for this topic.
You know, I have never seen a speaker refit before. Kinda wants me to give it a go. Great video, couldn't take my eyes off the procedure for one moment !
As a PRO live sound technician with roughly 40 years of experience, I have to agree with the pro audio vs car subwoofer comments. This is a PRO audio driver -- a completely different animal than a CAR subwoofer. A car audio enthusiast criticizing this speaker is like a motorcyclist criticizing a football helmet!
I have no disrespect for car audio enthusiasts, bassheads, or whatever they want to be called; if you're having fun, then have at it! However, the vast majority of these "professionals" wouldn't have a CLUE what to do if they sat down behind a console and a rack of amps and processors! Quite frankly, regardless of my pro audio experience, if I wanted an efficient, powerful subwoofer in my car, I would probably get a basshead to help me build it.
I would just go back to the local audio store and buy another 12 inch JL Audio Subwoofer.
@@hudsonhayer9376 look whos talking. You replied to this dudes comment 2 years after he made it. Lol. Get a life.
@@hudsonhayer9376
*you're
Edited "your" comment but still showing ignorance either way
@Jay B You do realize that this is a loudspeaker not a car sub woofer, also you must not know that this is rated at 123db continuous and it is extremely unlikely you can find a replacement 10 inch capable of that for 100 dollars.
bamper42069
i mean... i got a rockford fosgate P2 in great and usable condition at a yardsale for only $10...
the "basket" is the metal part of a speaker. The part he replaced is the cone and voice coil from a "Re-cone kit". Cheaper subs do NOT have re-cone kits for them.
Not a car sub.
I've got to say you did such a great professional job. I've watched couple of these and every other doesn't compare to the job you did. I hope you get paid well for jobs like these buddy ;)
Nice work
Other than the conehat silliness, you did a very professional video! Nice job.
Funny how some ppl say they would just go buy a new one. There is some satisfaction in repairing something. That would be like buying a new car because the motor or trans blew in it. If you have some skills and knowledge why not save a few bucks. Seems like smart money to me. I repaired my Cerwin Vega subs and they work like new.
Its called re-coning sub-woofer
Yoshi1u2 huh... i re-cone it is
Can an ice cream be re-coned if needed? I accidentally dropped mine. :(
1:24 This is big reconing mistake when gluing the spider. You should only press down on the glue area to avoid putting some lateral tension that could de-center the coil once you remove the shims.
When gluing the dust cap put a weight (coffee mug or glass) before pouring the glue around. This will prevent glue from running past the dust cap onto your voice coil.
After reconing a LF woofer an extensive speaker burn-in might be welcome.
Nice job ;)
Thank you! I bought the kit for my brother on his sequoia, works great!!
Everyone talking shit about him repairing that speaker should keep their comments to themselves. Obviously you know nothing about speakers. It is a PA speaker. I don't know about the new Turbosound speakers since they were bought out, but the older ones were quite good. This is a loudspeaker, not a subwoofer. You probably don't even know what a quality subwoofer is either.
ltldevl the original owner bailed before it failed.
ltldevl
well, I definitely tore up my share of speakers in the past! Practice makes perfect with anything. I encourage anyone with skilled hands to try, but maybe with a cheaper speaker first!
Awesome Job! Great Teacher also. I like the detailed information. That was very helpful. Thank You.
Nice work man! You have enough patience. :)
I'm laughing at all these "car woofer heads" calling that a crap speaker because it has a lower XMAX than a comparable car woofer. This speaker is designed for midbass in a high volume setting with a very large enclosure possibly with some kind of horn loading involved. Car woofers are designed for smaller enclosures and use higher wattage amplifiers to make up for the lack of acoustics said smaller enclosures have. This speaker would own a car woofer in an efficiency rating test, accuracy test, and longevity test. This is a professional audio woofer, not some overpriced toy designed to advertise to all the thugs in the area to bust out your vehicle's glass and steal your system for a quick buck.
Scioneer where did I say car woofer? Those two words never mentioned by me until now. Now it being a PA speaker then it is only good for voices nothing else. I have quality sound in my home and car. No has taken anything from either place.
"No has taken"? ^
Only good for what? Little do you know of PA systems.
Virtually all high-end pro audio subs have a removable magnet for maintenance/reconing. Remove the magnet, THEN clean the gap. It's a hell of a lot more thorough. If you miss just one tiny crumb of copper, piece of steel wool, or melted enamel, then it's just a matter of time before it gets wedged into the gap and destroys the voice coil...
318$ for that piece of shit? turbo sound lmao
its a hi fidelity speaker. you dont really see the value in parts and design. its more of an integral electrical componenent that is finely tuned by expert engineers. whenever you hear live music, its most likely through paper speakers with a cloth or paper surround.
tip, if your going to fast forward through the parts where you talk, could you put some sub-titles or something? that would help a lot, GREAT video BTW.
heating the adhered components helps make removal easier too.
Frequency response is a much more costly engineering science than SPL (decibel). For many reasons, pro audio is a superior technology. One recording studio can cost MILLIONS!!! Live venues can be astonishing. There is a reason for that. Car audio is only replaying what pro audio created in the first place. You can't compare the 2
From the Tower Beacon by the door and a few other old pieces of equipment, it would appear you are a Broadcast Engineer or at least a radio fan. Enjoyed the video.
everyone is talking that your speaker is piece of junk.well i say that your woofer will be GOLD for me!i only have those moor small speakers
always tin both the wire and the terminal before starting to solder together just a little tip
I love when someone is speeding up the video, and talking in the same time :D It sounds like "gaah-buh-dih-bee-dab beeh-upf-geeb-deeb-ap-duh" :D
very nice methodical repair. Thanks for sharing. The teenager comments in here are hilarious.
Un-Blowing....LMFAO! 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂
Nice work!
Btw you have a bit of distortion on the end of the vid, a trick I used at raves when making videos is to cover my phones mic with my vingers, muffles the bass away enough to keep everything crystal and audible ;)
This was great!
Very interesting. And a lot better than $300 for a whole new speaker!
Very nice job and funny to see all the high speed with the normal-pitch audio. Especially when it's extra fast and I hear your voice, but it is so fast it is unintelligible. I also recognized that room you were in, with the Fisher radio and amp, speakers and 8-track player, and the Superscope cassette recorder with no cassette door and corroded battery compartment!
OK video, BUT...using steel wool (to clean glue residue off) around that strong magnet is way baaaad, and NOT recommended...if ANY even tiny particles get sucked up and into the voice-coil area, they will be difficult, if not impossible to remove, and all of your work is for nothing when they make contact with the voice-coil. I'd also vacuum out debris from voice-coil area, not just blow it around (but sticky paper was a good idea!)
Ronplucksstrings You know your stuff Ron. Steel Wool would be about the last thing you want around that magnet structure. Undoubtedly some fibers will make their way into the VC slot and near impossible to remove and certainly no fun. Vacuuming as well should be done in the cleaning process.
In the end the woofer was re-coned and seemingly working properly. With more practice some of the sloppiness will probably improve.
hey I use rain x to get the glue and foam off. it's denatured alcohol, so it works great
Thank you for not explaining how to scrape a gasket off a speaker basket. Some videos seem like they're geared towards people who can't even tie their shoes and it makes it very difficult to watch. I've don't this over 50 and I don't even know why I watch but...
Thanks...I especially like "Speaker Cine-head" as a reminder that a blown speaker is nothing to laugh about. LOL
thanks Stigen
THANKS STIGEN!!!
The basket, magnet and caps were all that was left. That's not unblowing, it's rebuilding. I personally found it very interesting to see this done. There was wait time for the glue to dry too. That was a 15"? This rebuild was worth the work done because I think 12 and 15" speakers aren't being built anymore or close to it, from what I have read. I just had 2 dust covers replaced on my Pioneers and new caps installed on one of them and they are 12" woofers, buying an active 1000 watt sub to accompany them will help them, so I did and that is a 12" as well, lol, wall shakers.
Rebuilding is the definition of unblowing. That is an 18 inch sub
@@skydyverjym 18 inch! That's huge. Unblowing same as rebuilding, never heard that before
@@johnnycee5179 granted, I'm not as experienced as the vast majority, but once a speaker is blown, it's trash. Or you can rebuild it like here. Somebody correct me me if I'm wrong. If the cone is shot but the coil is still good it can be rigged, repaired kinda, repaired, or repurposed altogether into a vibration exciter or a bass shaker and I don't know what else. TH-cam dml or flat panel speaker and bass shaker diy if you haven't already, they're awesome. But he said and demonstrated here the coil was very very shot. Only way to fix that that I know of is re-cone it like he did here
@@johnnycee5179 oh yeah, and TH-cam 21 inch, 33 inch, and the latest and greatest 80 inch subwoofer. Yes, that's correct, 6 foot, 2 meter diameter subwoofer. It lifts the room built around it
Cool video. So the dust cap is it necessary for the performance of the speaker overall? I know dust isn't good for the coil but will a speaker still work the same without the dust cover?
Pain in the ass! Using enough shims and getting the coil centered perfectly isn't always easy. I've fixed speakers where it moved in and out fine but as soon as some bass got to it, it started scratching inside again.
Ya'll seem to think this is a car subwoofer. Its a woofer for a cabinet. I know, ya'll are ignorant, it's okay.
Awesome, I just ordered and foam kit, thanks man.
I'm probably going to have to do the same to an Eminence 3012lf after not using a high pass on a loud bedroom testing. Coil is probably fine as it was nowhere near its thermal limit, but voice coil is slightly dented from hitting the back and it rubs.
Coolest thing I've seen all day
holy hell that's big and for really good sound and excursion
wow, great video, thanks, need to repair my ar3 a woofer and ar lst woofer. Both must be blown because they don't put out sound any longer. Thanks again
You can use regular cooking oil like olive or rapeseed oil to get rid of the glue. Just spread it on amply, let it sit for at least 15 minutes, and wipe off. You'll need to clean it all off with acetone after wiping.
Rapeseed oil? Hahaha
***** ?
Rape must be a funny word I gather.
OR!!! you can just use some rubbing alcohol and it just wipes clean off and cost less than that oil or acetone. It's even very quick!!! I had to use it to get adhesive glue off my windows taking tint off that was on a 93 truck since it was made!!! Gets the job done quick!!!
Oh and this guy knows how to really save some money too!!! Love the vid
Can you tell us where you got the replacement parts from? Thanks.
Nice job, though to me the shape of the old membrane looked pretty decent. I would just recoil it and keep that 100 dollars.
Tip: Stick it in the oven on low for about 10 or 20 minutes and it will come un glued if its the type of speaker thats meant to be glued
if you heat a magnetic object it will not be as magnetic anymore. so don't put your speaker in the oven, it will ruin the magnet.
Great video, thanks for the knowledge !
If you have the time and it comes out properly cheaper (I'm not talking about saving $5) then it's cool. Nothing gives the satisfaction quite like having something work that you have built/fixed. Otherwise it's not really worth it. My friend wanted me to re-cone a pair of JVC UX-B1005's. That's a bit ridiculous.
A nice work but…The cone was good. The spider was good. The only thing that was damage was the voice coil and this was the only thing that needed to be replaced.
Yeah ill just buy another one😅
Yeah I'll just buy 2
This brand wants to be "stylish" even with the part of the speaker you'll almost never see: the voicecoil. They go to all the trouble of painting it black... Nice! :D
I've had a few where the cone was torn and the easy fix was to use the no tear paper from the USPS and some rubber glue. I let it dry letting it sit all day in the sun then next day I put the speak back in and the speaker sounds just like new.
0:45 . . . . . A BASSHEADS WORST NIGHTMARE 🤪
you don't unblow the speaker, you just threw it away, you kept the "bracket" and installed a new speaker -_-
For less money than buying a whole new speaker.
Hunter McNew thus the title should be: how to fix your speaker cheap..
You keep the basket and the motor structure. It is called reconing a speaker. not unbolwing. For the speaker that he reconed it probably wasn't worth it. I have a $400 15" and the recone cost $190.
Bluesr0cker well done professor...
yea,, that's what I said...
hey I see 8-track tapes in the background on the floor- awesome.
I thought the "basket" was the metal frame that holds the magnet and what u attach the surround to. Isn't what he bought a re-cone kit?
Great vid, thanx for posting
Quick story and a question for you, I bought two vintage Jensen 6X9 speakers. Using a multimeter one of the speakers was fine, the other I couldn't get a reading anywhere but when I hooked it up to a small amp, there was a small delay and then miraculously sizzled back to life, but with a coil rub sound. Is it possible that if speaker was blown before might have caused a short, fooling a my multimeter?
Good video man, is good to see people using manual skills and being funny (chinese hat !!)
great video. enjoyed watching it.
Thank you for sharing. You obviously have a lot of practice.
Anybody want my my teenager to live with them?
Thanks for the tut, what was that test song you used?
Nice Video. Some people man...who cares what the title is. I knew exactly what he was talking about. My question is, Did the glue you use come with the repair Kit? if not what two types of glue are you using? Does anyone know what glue he used?
Go to a model/hobby shop and get some CA glue. eBay has some nice stuff for $13. Don't listen to the haters.
+Wet Striker Hopefully he won't listen to you. CA glue is completely the WRONG stuff to us. I suggest you stop sniffing your glue in the future.
+Nuckelhedd Jones Can you provide the correct product?
Good kits supply it or the vendor will suggest some.
thanks for the reasonable reply, Iam going to try this for the first time.
I'd just done a recone on my Sundown Audio SA8v2 sub and I can tell you that is was a pain in the butt to recone. It's not a hard job, but being a little 8in sub with a heavy ass magnet and the way the basket/frame is made. It leave you with little room to do the reconing. But overall, reconing a sub is a fairly easy task to do and is cheaper than buying a new sub. You just need proper tools.
Where do you buy a cone kit at????
Colt Ricketts for sundown audio. I get it straight from Sundown. For custom recone, I'll suggest fixmyspeaker.com or partexpreas.com. Fix my speaker is usually for people that competes and want custom made recone while parts express, they have replacement recone and parts for just about any subs or speakers out there.
Very nice work ! Except for the choice of music. But instructive. What are those shime (? time) here to do ?
I like your work
What types of glue to use? Where to purchase the Glue and foam surrounds? I have 5 15", 5 12 inch, and several other smaller size speakers to replace surrounds. In my older wood cabinet floor stereo speakers. Thank You
If your speaker is about to blow, take a video of it. Play the video backwards and you'll have a good speaker!
Presented by Troll Physics.
its way easier to use the time machine
It worked for me. Thank you so much
that speaker is NOT worth 100 dollars to recone...give me a 100 dollars ill give you a 10 inch that we be louder than that...that sub is a piece of doo doo
how can you possibly judge that?
my 8 inch studio woofer blows you away lol
Your 10 inch would rot out in a few years, have a sub 80db SPL, and have horrible accuracy. But sure it will be loud, using a much larger amp than this one needs to achieve the same about of decibels.
ifeel sic ex fucking xactly
Piece of turd. Hes polishing pooh here.
Barbara streisand, lol love this song
Where did you order this basket from. I need to do this for my 15” 8 ohm black widow speaker for my peavey bass cab but everything I keep finding online comes with the basket frame/cage. Please send me a link to where I might be able to purchase what I need. You are much appreciated in advance.
Could have made two videos form this! I would have watched both...
Great video . I have a 10" Precision Power flat piston sub that is blown. That crunchy sound when pressed on is terrible. This sub is HEAVY and I know its high quality, but how different would the repair be?
probably not too different
probably not too different
Crap dude you almost made me fall asleep
Unblowing! Why don't you call this a speaker recone?
I hope Joe grew up loving music
@Thom Keener
Shut up! Im sorry, I did not realize that the video was titled "how to properly follow safety procedures while reconing a speaker."
Now go put your knee pads and helmet back on and get in your bubble before a meteor hits you. Wouldn't want to not be wearing your safety gear when that happens.
Ye fergit ta back brace.
Me:black voice coil my fav uncolor
Him: *INTENSE SNIFF*
would Weldbond work and hold up for the surround and spider? - how about Scotchbrite to clean the basket?
Thats an old school looking amp you have, how old is it?
Fools gold but great video.
Thanks for the video; your funny to watch
Is it just the camera or do these cones have an exponential curve on them?
If I remember correctly that subwoofer is a pa subwoofer that is used in dj systems
Thanks for the video! It really helped.
Is the new one black because of some kind of anti-friction coating of some sort?
Damn what torturous pain did you put that speaker through. Usually I'll see coper wire that looks black to me
Hi..nice vid..I hv a lil problem with my PD 1851/2...yes I blew it with the amp...now,,I hv already ordered the recone kit which is arnd 150euros, but the expected delivery date is more than a month away..I cant go on a whole month without it..so I just called a tech who does recoiling,,according to him it'll take only 3 days to get it fixed and runnin...pls tell me what are cons of recoiling..I've heard that it will never be the same as the original after recoiling...
Thank you
Great informative video! I was wondering if anyone can offer some advise to a woofer speaker problem I have. Speaker not working dead no pop no hum nothing! Surround good, cone good, dust cap good, voice coil moves freely no rubbing, wire connection look good, no strong burnt smell. When I took the speaker out of the cabinet the only thing I noticed was the plug end connector came loose from the insulator. Reattached it and it made no difference. Plug speaker in different sound source dead
that was a cool ending LOL
nice work
I have some desktop speakers I love with all my life. I mistakenly plugged in the wrong power chord and blew out my speaker. The port is fine but it blew the speaker and is like to replace it. What do y'all recommend? I'm trying to fix my grey Yamaha desktop speakers ive had since 1998. Any help is much appreciated.
@narcoti The smell of a burnt voice coil must be experienced. Take an old speaker and purposely blow it (plenty of videos on how to do that) so you can smell it. Best advice how NOT to cook your stereo speakers is to learn to identify Distortion and avoid it. I have never seen a blown speaker that was not driven to distortion first. Distortion is that sound that is kind of staticy when you turn it all the way up but it really doesn't get louder any more..
I would have used electronics cleaner.. Spray it in with the speaker facing down. It evaporates quickly and will leave the voice coil passage supper clean. I've never done this just guessing is all.