Side not not mentioned in the video. It might be possible to remove the head without removing the camshaft sprockets, thus not needing the timing tool. This may be accomplished by marking the timing chain and camshaft sprockets with paint before removal to ensure they are reinstalled in the same position. If sufficient slack can be gained from the chain, the camshafts MIGHT be removable from the head before the head is removed from the vehicle. IF THIS METHOD IS ATTEMPTED, the timing chain MUST stay tight to the crankshaft while the camshafts are removed. If it jumps just one tooth, severe engine damage may occur. Proceed at your own risk. This method could, however, save approximately 1 hour of time and $100, the cost of camshaft sprocket bolts and the tool.
awesome video, theres alot of effort put into this, between the actual head gasket replacement to the filming and editing, and walk through. kudos, sir. i think im dealing with a blown head gasket on mine currently.
Since so many sensors need disconnected, there’s a chance that a sensor power feed might come into contact to ground, causing a short. This can cause fuses to blow, modules to fry, wires to fry, or all of the above. It’s a small ask for large risk mitigation.
@@fixaday That's what relays are for. For most of those sensors, power isn't provided to them until the car is turned to auxiliary mode and/or turned on. Additionally, electrical connectors are shielded by their housing so that doesn't happen.
@Feral_Sage Very few engine sensors are powered via relays on the Cruze, nearly all of them are powered directly from the PCM either on dedicated or common circuits. Regarding power while the vehicle is off, some sensors do maintain power supply for several minutes after shutting off the engine. The connectors/sensors also do not have discreet ground references, I cannot think of any that do except possibly the antennas and CAN bus. If any sensors/components do have shielding, that shielding is no longer relevant once it is disconnected. This creates the risk of the connector terminals touching something they shouldn't, which may expose them to power or ground.
@@fixaday It's simply not true. most sensors do not have power when the car is off. The only time you should ever need to disconnect the battery is when working on electronics or parts that have power when the car is off. Cars keep power flowing to essential components like the ECU, security systems, clock, remote keyless entry, and various control modules to maintain settings and monitor for issues. But if you are working on mechanical parts, there is no reason to disconnect the battery.
@@Feral_Sage Many modern cars perform functions after shutdown, such as sweep the throttle body, cycle the vent valve, cycle transmission solenoids, or cycle abs solenoids, the Cruze does at least two of these but possibly more. I see your point. I generally work under those principles on my own vehicles. I work carefully and basically never disconnect the battery. I have never encountered a negative consequence from this. However, I'm presenting to an audience who may not know the risks, so it's better safe than sorry. Time to diagnose, replace, and reprogram a failed module is 100 times the cost of disconnecting the battery. To clarify, in this instance, over 10 connectors were removed from various sensors, actuators, and solenoids. Two possibilities can occur when they are disconnected but battery power is not. One, a power feed from the PCM to the connector can contact ground. A fuse will blow, eventually, but the circuitry is generally not designed for the 100+ amp peak current before the fuse blows. Or two, a signal reference can contact power or ground, overloading ICs or circuitry in the PCM.
The machine shop I took mine to never gave me an answer as to how warped it was, but I could tell they removed a good bit to get it flat. Another factor is the temperature gauge in these cars doesn’t start rising until 240 degrees, with the full hot mark indicating 250. With these in mind, and the low-conformity of the head gasket they use, plan to get it resurfaced regardless. I estimate they cut approximately 0.010” from mine.
@mattbickford2640 Many head gaskets, but just one on a Cruze. I did buy another a few days ago that had a harmonic balancer failure. It was also out of coolant, so it’s possible it was overheated and will need a gasket replacement, but we’ll see when I have time to get to it.
Chapter Index
DISASSEMBLY
00:00 - 03:54 Intro and tools used
03:55 - 04:37 Battery Terminal and Air Cleaner
04:38 - 05:44 PCV Hose Assembly
05:45 - 10:59 Intake Manifold Removal and Harness Management
11:00 - 17:06 Turbocharger and Catalytic Converter
17:07 - 18:30 Engine Mount, Belt, and Water Pump Pulley
19:03 - 19:28 Valve Cover
19:29 - 20:30 Timing Chain Tensioner Access Plug
20:31 - 20:55 Placing Engine at TDC
20:56 - 21:38 Timing Chain Tensioner Pinning
21:39 - 21:50 Top Timing Chain Guide
21:52 - 23:04 Timing Cover Bolts
23:05 - 23:26 Camshaft Position Actuators
23:27 - 24:20 Camshaft Sprockets
24:21 - 25:03 Head Bolts
25:04 - 26:56 Lifting Cylinder Head
26:57 - 28:45 Cylinder Head Disassembly
28:46 - 29:42 Oil Filter Housing
29:43 - 30:35 Oil Cooler Gasket
31:02 - 31:17 Turbocharger Oil Drain Line Debris
31:18 - 31:47 Dorman Turbocharger and Oil Cooler Gasket Kit
ASSEMBLY
31:48 - 33:19 Oil Filter Housing
33:20 - 36:10 Cylinder Head Assembly and Prep
36:11 - 39:28 Setting Cylinder Head
39:29 - 39:55 Timing Cover Bolts
39:56 - 40:56 Head Bolt Torque
40:57 - 41:32 Timing Cover Bolts
41:33 - 42:28 Camshaft Sprocket Bolts
42:28 - 43:05 Camshaft Lock Tool
43:06 - 45:53 Crankshaft Lock Tool
45:54 - 47:01 Camshaft Chain Tensioning Tool
47:02 - 48:10 Camshaft Phaser Lock Tool
48:11 - 49:06 Camshaft Sprocket Bolt Torque
49:07 - 49:18 Top Timing Chain Guide
49:18 - 49:45 Timing Chain Tensioner Pin
49:46 - 50:05 Timing Verification
50:06 - 50:27 Camshaft Position Actuators
50:28 - 50:33 Camshaft Position Sensors
50:34 - 50:49 Valve Cover
50:50 - 51:25 Intake Manifold
51:26 - 52:02 Water Pump Pulley, Belt, and Engine Mount
52:03 - 53:25 Turbocharger
53:26 - 53:35 Water Outlet and Charge Air Cooler Pipe
53:36 - 54:47 Catalytic Converter and Charge Air Hose
54:48 - 55:44 Wiring Harness
55:45 - 55:56 PCV Hose, Air Cleaner, and Battery Cable
55:57 - 57:51 Startup and Observation
57:52 - 58:40 Cooling System Flush Method
58:41 - 58:53 Conclusion
58:53 - 59:37 Outro
Side not not mentioned in the video. It might be possible to remove the head without removing the camshaft sprockets, thus not needing the timing tool. This may be accomplished by marking the timing chain and camshaft sprockets with paint before removal to ensure they are reinstalled in the same position. If sufficient slack can be gained from the chain, the camshafts MIGHT be removable from the head before the head is removed from the vehicle. IF THIS METHOD IS ATTEMPTED, the timing chain MUST stay tight to the crankshaft while the camshafts are removed. If it jumps just one tooth, severe engine damage may occur. Proceed at your own risk. This method could, however, save approximately 1 hour of time and $100, the cost of camshaft sprocket bolts and the tool.
Great video. I'm helping a friend with his. Same issue, head gasket. Great straight forward video. Keep up the good work.
Great job God bless you
awesome video, theres alot of effort put into this, between the actual head gasket replacement to the filming and editing, and walk through. kudos, sir. i think im dealing with a blown head gasket on mine currently.
Great video, thank you for putting so much effort into this. The chaptering and tool overview at the start was very good!
GREAT VIDEO
WONDERFUL JOB
Great video
WELL EXPLAINED
고생하셨어요
because I am seriously curious. Why would you need to remove the negative battery terminal when doing a mechanical repair?...
Since so many sensors need disconnected, there’s a chance that a sensor power feed might come into contact to ground, causing a short. This can cause fuses to blow, modules to fry, wires to fry, or all of the above. It’s a small ask for large risk mitigation.
@@fixaday That's what relays are for. For most of those sensors, power isn't provided to them until the car is turned to auxiliary mode and/or turned on. Additionally, electrical connectors are shielded by their housing so that doesn't happen.
@Feral_Sage Very few engine sensors are powered via relays on the Cruze, nearly all of them are powered directly from the PCM either on dedicated or common circuits. Regarding power while the vehicle is off, some sensors do maintain power supply for several minutes after shutting off the engine. The connectors/sensors also do not have discreet ground references, I cannot think of any that do except possibly the antennas and CAN bus. If any sensors/components do have shielding, that shielding is no longer relevant once it is disconnected. This creates the risk of the connector terminals touching something they shouldn't, which may expose them to power or ground.
@@fixaday It's simply not true. most sensors do not have power when the car is off. The only time you should ever need to disconnect the battery is when working on electronics or parts that have power when the car is off. Cars keep power flowing to essential components like the ECU, security systems, clock, remote keyless entry, and various control modules to maintain settings and monitor for issues.
But if you are working on mechanical parts, there is no reason to disconnect the battery.
@@Feral_Sage Many modern cars perform functions after shutdown, such as sweep the throttle body, cycle the vent valve, cycle transmission solenoids, or cycle abs solenoids, the Cruze does at least two of these but possibly more.
I see your point. I generally work under those principles on my own vehicles. I work carefully and basically never disconnect the battery. I have never encountered a negative consequence from this. However, I'm presenting to an audience who may not know the risks, so it's better safe than sorry. Time to diagnose, replace, and reprogram a failed module is 100 times the cost of disconnecting the battery.
To clarify, in this instance, over 10 connectors were removed from various sensors, actuators, and solenoids. Two possibilities can occur when they are disconnected but battery power is not. One, a power feed from the PCM to the connector can contact ground. A fuse will blow, eventually, but the circuitry is generally not designed for the 100+ amp peak current before the fuse blows. Or two, a signal reference can contact power or ground, overloading ICs or circuitry in the PCM.
Do these usually end up having a warped head with a bad gasket? Friend asked if i could help him, idk.. thinking about telling him to sell it
The machine shop I took mine to never gave me an answer as to how warped it was, but I could tell they removed a good bit to get it flat. Another factor is the temperature gauge in these cars doesn’t start rising until 240 degrees, with the full hot mark indicating 250. With these in mind, and the low-conformity of the head gasket they use, plan to get it resurfaced regardless. I estimate they cut approximately 0.010” from mine.
@@fixaday have you done a lot of these? If not thats cool, im just curious
@mattbickford2640 Many head gaskets, but just one on a Cruze.
I did buy another a few days ago that had a harmonic balancer failure. It was also out of coolant, so it’s possible it was overheated and will need a gasket replacement, but we’ll see when I have time to get to it.
Good video. Guess I’ll just look for a low mileage used engine. So much nonsense to deal with