I have been retired from the mechanic trade for 17 years. Every so often, I think I miss the work, I watch one of your videos and in a New York Minute I relax and an thankful to be retired.
We just love it when Mrs. O makes her cameo appearances. They way you both interact with each other is pure entertainment ! Keep em coming Eric. Remember folks, Mr. O is a PRO !!
As a Northern Ohio resident, I can attest to the bolt eating rust we have around here. Any time I can work on a car from the south, or dry places like Arizona/Utah; it's a dream.
I spent the first few years as a tech in Philadelphia where I lived my whole life and then moved to Georgia where I’ve been for over ten years, it is an absolute dream working as a technician down here lol, there’s no way in hell I’ll ever move back to an area up north
I moved to Western New York from Tennessee (what was I thinking?) And moved witb a Mazda B3000. Mechanic doing the inspection called me in the shop. He said have a good look now cause you'll never see it this way a again. He was soooooooo right.
Born and raised in Phoenix. Some of the shops I’ve worked in didn’t even have a torch. I didn’t learn how to use one until I moved to Indiana and had to work out there for a year. I had already been a mechanic for 5 years at that point. Arizona cars are so easy to work on.
I follow many automotive channels from well known youtubers,but this is my favorite. Don't understand that this channel hasn't reached the 1 million subscribers yet
Man, the Chevy Snuze is quintessential modern GM design philosophy. Plastic coolant housing that fails notoriously? ✔️ PCV system that's prone to clogging and sending oil pissing out the rear main? ✔️ Small displacement engine with a turbo made of cardboard and pot metal? ✔️ Cheap plastic EVERYTHING as far as the eye can see? ✔️ If a GM car has a turbo, and it ain't a Grand National, I'll take my chances walking.
Yep! All the more reason why I just walked away and steer clear from all vehicle that has more plastic parts in them than a properly design and well thought-out build vehicle that made sense with the right material. The entire design and layout has to look good and made sense before I even shell out a ton of money on a new car. A slight hint of cheap and odd ball layout is usually a tell tale sign of a poorly built vehicle is just not worth the headache in the long run.
@@monkehbitch Due to some glitch in TH-cam, my comment showed up on another channel. When removed it there, it disappeared here as well. ????? I was referring to urethane caulk and adhesive, especially the self-leveling caulk. It gets all over everything.
Same goes for the Turbo's on the EcoBoost. Same exact things happen...it's "Normal". Normal at 80K Miles? NO! But welcome to my world. $3200 repair bill at 80K miles because the Turbo designed to last 150K+ miles eats itself at 80K miles. Wasn't happy about that for sure....
@@WreckDiver99 That is the reason why I don't have a car with a turbo. I highly doubt that I will ever buy a car with a turbo even though I do love the new Nissan Z sports car.
NOTE TO ERIC: When doing an oil pan, I usually use 2 short studs in the engine block oil pan holes to center / guide the pan up for a perfect placement !!! This prevents any scrapes of the sealant, and takes just an extra minute as opposed to redoing it all again because of a tiny leak. Just an FYI tip from a master !!! A salty old dog is never to old to learn a new trick !!! It's about time you have a video where I can finish my cup of coffee and snack just as you are about to wrap the job up. Kudos on the great sealing of the oil pan with the sealant - nice job and NO leaks - Hurrah !!!!!! Never underestimate the value of a good wife and exhaust train holder !!! A box of sugar free candies is always a nice thank you for her help, along with a kiss !!! Hasn't failed me yet !!! Waiting for part two to finish off this vehicle and make it worry free to the owner !!! Well done Eric & Vanessa !!!!!!!
Given how often turbos fail, I'm a little surprised there aren't more quality videos of how to diagnose and replace a turbo. Just sayin', we'd love to watch you do one.
The coolant line was the worst one for me older 1.4s it seems the ac compressor bracket is fully out of the way, newer ones cover that bolt by a quarter inch so you cant get a socket on it and the acess was already bad, i had the stuff so i swapped it to an6, really helped for the headgasket job i ended up doing because i can just unbolt the turbo and flop it away from everything.@@orchestracelloplayer
As soon as you said coolant leak, i immediately thought of that thermostat housing! We replace them with an all alloy unit, and once you even look at the pipe that goes to the throttle body it'll break so that gets ordered at the same time...
Like the gentle reminder with the oil cap. Beeing a boat mechanic i have got a lot of tricks learned from .people like you , Eric. Its bad to forget adding oil to an engine ofcourse.
An artist at work is a sight to behold. Your attention to detail is an inspiration. One little oversight can cost time & money. I hope the new techs are watching & learning from one of the best!
Thanks, Eric! I own a 2011 with the same exact engine and I’ve done my own maintenance on it. The oil pan gasket was next on my list and I learned an easy way from you using some support! Otherwise, I would’ve ended up using a Jack stand to hold the exhaust up and fully take off the catalytic converter. Mine has 152K on it and like you pointed out about the crack by the wastegate in the turbo, mine is a bit bigger than that one, and it is really a problem with underboost codes. GM’s “fix” is to reprogram the ECM to allow more room for boost loss before it trips the CEL. What a crock of crap. Overall, these cars are fun to work on, plenty of elbow room, and leaks that makes the Niagara Falls look like a small seep with all the plastic they used in it.
If you haven't done so, Check for boosts leaks elsewhere in the intake system. You can easily make a test kit. Buy a 2inch rubber cap from home depot and secure to the inlet of the turbo. Then using a pressure regulator, a pressure guage and 5/16ths fuel hose.. Pressurise the inlet manifold to 20 psi.. You might be amazed the the intake system leaks like a freaking sieve! Even my inlet manifold was split along the bottom seam at one point.. I JB welded the split some 20k miles ago. No more underboost codes.. See my note above about replacing and/or insulating the oil feed line to the turbo.
There isn't a gasket that I'm aware of . I used a back rtv on mine and it has been good for 2 years now. No if the oil cooler is leaking the only way I was able to fix this was to replace it with oem one.
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Amen Bro ... it is simply amazing !!! 3 year old M3 in Brussels and dash cracks/door insert debonds ... and it ain't like they get but 2 weeks of Summer a year !!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GERMAN CAR EVER !!!
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Not just European plastic. I'm in the UK, and 20 years ago the plastic coolant crossover pipe on the intake manifold of one of our Lincoln Town Car limos (which was only 3 years old at the time) split and dumped all the coolant on the road. After that we replaced them all with the modified manifolds with aluminium coolant pipes. Ford evidently had realised they shouldn't make them out of plastic by that time.
I hope the pause in the video when Vanessa said that's the only reason and gave you that look. was due to you giving her at least a big hug. I know when my wife said that and gave me that look, my heart melted and my knees got weak. I'd have to hug her to keep from falling down.
Best part about these videos is when mrs. O comes out. Watching yall 2 after being married so long and seeing that the spark is still there is great. 😎😎😎
I bought one of these piles brand new in 2014. It was a 1.4T with the manual which was a fun little combo but the body was horribly rattly and squeaky after only a year. I traded it in within 13 months for a 2015 Outback and never looked back to GM. I've since traded in the Subie for a Toyota and never looked back at Subie either. Although I miss the symmetrical AWD.
@@gtemnykh not quite true. Most manual Subies still have a 50/50 torque split front to rear only the STI has a manual and a driver selected torque split, you can rear wheel bias. Now autos and the cvt models do thing a little different but are generally 60/40 split in normal conditions.
I'm with you on this one. There's no way in hell I would put up with this kind of nonsense. My 13-year-old Toyota has 384,000 on it. Had to swap an oil pan because the threads stripped out, about 20 .. 10 mm bolts.. and pops right off. Exhaust is in the back of against the firewall so it's never in the way under the engine cradle. Car stills dry as a bone on the bottom of it even if that mileage. Far as I know it's never even had the valve cover off.
@@gtemnykh Ya think? But you'd be completely wrong. In Subaru terms it relates to configuration of the drive system & absolutely nothing to do with torque split. The system is setup along the centerline of the vehicle to balance both performance & traction = symmetrical. You'll notice when you get into a Subaru there's a big ass trans tunnel because it's engine -> trans -> axle.............not at all like the majority of front biased systems (aka FWD w/ a power take off to the rear).
@@ejjackson2573 ok, well newer Subarus just seem completely lame offroad, cooking their CVTs and viscous couplings into “limp mode” lmao. I like the older ones, head gaskets and all.
I've owned a 2012 since it was 2 years old. I don't think its ever stopped leaking coolant from somewhere ever since we've had it. This car drove us to buy a brand new Honda Passport this year as this will be the last car we own with a Chevvy badge on it!
So what is the secret to finding a good shop/tech? If I wasn't 5 hours from you, everything I own would be at your shop for everything. Love the work you do!
And if I can do it....umm..not this time I would not even try. Every time I watch one of Eric's videos it confirms that he is possibly the best auto repair shop and automotive technician I have ever seen.
Hey there Eric O! Down in va at my Chevy dealer we just loosen that v band clamp and rotate the car out of the way of the oil pan, makes it easier to sneak the pan out versus removing the whole cat!
It's not worth anything as a trade in. The guy's right to drive it until the roof falls in. The next repairs will be around 2K, you can't replace it for that.
@@ralfie8801 best time to trade/sell any car right now in the insane market here in the US! My wife's junk POS 2018 jeep renegade with 25k was a nightmare and getting close from experied warranty. Bought it for 29k, we traded it in for 27k
These EcoTec engines have some engineering flaws; the oil cooler repair should be good for another 100k miles. Fixing suddenly becomes economical when used car inflation hits 50%+, with good cars difficult to find.
@@jmabs5096 You still can’t replace it for that, if it’s not having trouble every week, why trade? It’s a lot less costly to fix one for 2 or 3K every few years than it is to trade one in and spend more than you got in trade just because the tires need replacing or it drips a few drops of oil now and then. Only one of mine has less than 300K on the clock and they can’t be replaced for anything remotely close to what I spend on maintenance, which is basically nothing. For the most part, people in the rust belt drive them until the roof rusts in around them, they don’t last that long there. Where I live, they last forever, and you drive them forever, a little maintenance every once in a while costs way less than trading one in just because it’s tires get worn out.
Appreciate you working after hours to do a vid. I see that night outside the window. I feel like I dodged a bullet. I had intended to buy a low priced one of these as a runabout clunker but the dude never got back to me. Being a masochist, I ended up taking a 3 cylinder Fiesta SFE instead. To its credit it has been rock solid, but I bet it won’t always be 😂
I see people askin about the silicone dispenser. GTE Masterbead Adhesive Dispenser, GTEMB1. I can't find it in stock anywhere but.. At least ya know. There might be more options for 4oz silicone dispensers out there if ya search.
I thought you were just suppose to put an oil drip pan under the vehicle. If you ever get in a knot over it, forget about Eric helping you out. Late night chasing oil leaks. Glad I've reached the point where I can shut the lights out and go home to dinner. Thanks for Sharing!
I've had two gars with the 1.4. The first took me a lot of miles but I needed a bigger car. The second The one I drive now has been great too. Proper maintenance helps.
@@sparkedclipper2082 Accurate, I have a 2011 Eco with the 1.4 that has 190,000 MI all that's ever been changed on it other than maintenance parts is the valve cover
One time I dealt with this Smart-Alek salesman at a local motorcycle shop. I was rebuilding the engine of an old Honda XL-175 enduro which had sucked a valve. I asked him if he carried torque wrenches. He said, "No. You don't need a torque wrench to rebuild these engines". Well, then, I asked him, how do I get the correct torque on the head bolts? He replied: the correct torque is a quarter-turn before they strip. Non-plussed, I asked: "How often should these be rebuilt?" He replied: "when they blow up"... Needless to say, I never darkened the doors of that business again.
Wow... what timing. I just had one of these last week. Someone had heli-coiled the drain and really messed it up. I changed the pan and also it had quite a water pump leak, as well. Customer declined that... for now. All in all, not a bad job. Except for putting that turbo clamp back on.
I hate that clamp as well, so I don't take the catalytic converter off. I just remove the rear engine mount and the flex pipe and the pan just slides right out.
The amount of these that crapped themselves here in Europe is legendary, and the related 3 Cyl Engine which was also Junk, Oil specifications was updated to combat LSPI very important to use the correct lubricant in these little grenades. Great Channel 👍
I think what happens with a lot of modern cars is the owner just changes the oil based on the oil life monitor. they take it to a quick change place whenever the car tells them to. I have found these systems to over estimate oil life in Hondas leading to eventual oil consumption due to stuck oil control rings (K24 engines). In 2007 BMW introduced their turbocharged N54 engine. The same year the dealers were offering a new incentive to cover the cost of maintenance for the first 4 years including oil changes. That same year the recommend oil change interval went from 7500 to 15000 miles. 15000 miles for a turbo is suicide and many of these cars developed turbo problems due to worn journal bearings. Sadly the car companies can't be trusted to give you the proper knowledge to ensure your car lasts for more than about 7 years or 100,000 miles. I have been using 7500 mile OCIs on the BMW and it has 190,000 miles (new turbos installed at about 75,000). I just changed the oil in the Honda (110,000 miles with 2 quart oil consumption in 10,000 miles) and will be using a 7500 mile OCI on it going forward.
Lots of great little tips in this, especially the one about using a toothbrush size wire brush to get the last bits of old silicone out of the grooves (in the block) caused by the original machining work.Mrs O didn't seem very pleased when you first said "you're good for one thing" though !
Thanks Mr. O. It could just be a coincidence but I do appreciate you making these videos on these 1.4t’s. I own two and have done a lot a work to them but kinda nice to see how to do it correctly 😂
I was helping a friend in his shop when he had a Tech quit spur of the moment leaving him with a huge backlog. We had a small 4 cyl GM car that was pouring oil around the oil pan. It had jus been to the local GM dealer for the same issue... They didnt get the 2 surfaces clean enough or dry enough and the gray stuff didnt even stick. Took more time cleaning up and getting it dry enough than to take the pan off and put it back. I let it sit over nite and drip drip drip.
Definitely job security when these break. As a owner of 2 I have done 1 oil pan and 2 turbo repairs. Best parts are oem ones for these cars. The crack is normal if small but like mine it was boosting out the back of the turbo p0299. Be safe
So the best parts you can buy are OEM? But you had to put two turbos in it? I've heard the same thing out of the Buick encores where they've had 3-5 turbos go out. Absolutely ridiculous. I'll stick with my Toyota. Boring as hell but 13 years old and 384,000 Miles. The only reason I ever had to change the oil pan is because an oil change place stripped out the plug not because it ever leaked a drop. 10 bolts drops right off the bottom can have it swapped in about 15 minutes.
@@kens97sto171 I don't know why everyone is saying the Cruze is trash, I had 250k on mine and got $2K for a trade in - still had the original turbo in ran great, started right up every time. I did all my own work on it and never had any big failures. At 250k it did need some wok (oil pan and turbo cooler) - had the parts but didn't want to do it during the lockdown last year.
@@jimbob2861 Might depend upon when it was built. I know the early 1.4 turbos had an iron block I believe later on they changed the design to aluminum. I Actually used to haul freight into the plant that cast and machined that engine. It's in defiance Ohio. They also built every V6 and V8 cast iron block GM makes for North America as well as the Duramax diesel. That was a pretty cool place. They had a giant pile of defect engine blocks, defect rate was only about 1%. They would find some defect in the casting during the machining process and it would get tossed in a giant pile and put back in the furnace and remelted. Always surprised me how small the 1.4 iron block was and actually how light it was. Maybe later models got worse after they switched to aluminum, I've heard several TH-cam repair channels talking about high turbo failure rates there's a lot of GM vehicles that run that 4 cylinder turbo. There's some videos on the car wizard TH-cam channel. He had a Buick encore in for repair that was already on its fourth turbocharger. Who knows, there's a lot of stuff being built today by all manufacturers that are a lot crappier than they used to be. And aftermarket parts supply has turned to absolute shit too. Glad you had good luck with your car. I actually always liked the Chevy Cruze as far as the way it drove I always thought it looked pretty good too.
Free tip If you don't want to smear the silicone while lifting up the pan, screw a couple of studs into the block first, so that as you lift the pan up and locate it onto the studs, it will hold perfectly still while you screw the bolts in. Then of course pull the studs out and finish the job
I buy a ton of these to sell and GM knows that internal turbo crack is not normal they just do not want to replace a million or so. These 1.4 motors are great little motors once you fix all of the poor engineering coolant issues, PVC issues etc. I've got to do one of these today, at least you can get to all of the bolts on these without pulling motor.
Lol! Webster defines caboodle as "all things in a group". I always heard the saying but never knew the exact meaning either. So there you go. The more you know.... 🤣 Another great video as usual and now you know what to do with your kit and caboodle. 😁
Eric, great job as usual. You might tell the guy not to take the car into one of the quick lube joints in the future. Staff are very poorly trained, rush through the job and care little for quality. You might also tell him not to get any "flushes" from places like that.
I do fluids at the dealer. Same price as other joints, but if they fuck it up they fix or replace it. I also have a highly reputable Honda dealer I go to for my acura so that helps. Never harass me for up sales, either. I feel like I got lucky with them.
Not a big Chevy fan or a newer car fan for that matter but that one didn't seem too difficult to work on even with the turbo and being compacted into a tight space.
I had to change a cooling fan on my wife’s Chevy Cruze last year. Has the same engine. I didn’t even have to pull the entire front end off the car to do it. Just basically undo the lower radiator hose, unhook the electrical connector to the fan and push down on one tab on either side of the fan assembly and wiggle it out. It actually took more time to try to figure it out than it actually did to remove it. The rest of this car is like working on Legos. That’s except for the oil pan which my wife smashed going over a curb. That we took in to a mechanic to get it replaced, To this day I don’t know why she didn’t grenade the engine.
1) The PCV valve is actually inside the Inlet manifold (and usually disappears into the engine in fairly short order). The diaphram in the valve cover then gets over pressurised and ruptures causing the leak and the lean code.. Or it just ruptures anyway and causes the same problem. You can get an after market kit that provides a brass check valve to bypass the PCV in the inlet man.. You then plug up the old PCV valve.. This avoids replacing a $300 inlet manifold and.. wait for it.. it actually works! 2) The crack in the turbo housing is "usually" not a problem.. A far bigger issue is boost leaks! Pressure testing the intake system showed up several leak points (even a huge split in the inlet manifold one time). When I plugged up all the leaks the boost code went away and normal acceleration was restored. 3) Turbo failures most likely occur to oil drying up in the poorly insulated turbo oil supply line. Which then starves the bearings. I replaced my line and added extra insulation. 4) seal kits are available (after market) for the oil cooler.. But I understand why you would just replace the whole cooler. 5) Death Cool seems to destroy hoses from the inside. Mine were rotten at 125k miles, so I replaced them all. 6) as you pointed out the turbo oil return line will snap like a carrot when you touch it..:) 7) I still have the original thermostat and water pump at $130k miles.. I'm personally amazed!
Update to the above.. The thermostat exploded and dumped ALL the coolant immediately. Thankfully Wifey was fast on the key and got it shutdown before it warped its head! Nowdays you can get both an aluminium thermostat and coolant outlet tee. Of course these aftermarket upgrades came just AFTER I replaced them with the original plastic crap. I have a love/hate with this car and subsequently bought a new Honda Passport!..:)
this was the first video of yours i watched cause i was changing my oil pan on my cruze the dealer changed my oil pan and it leaked and of course they would not fix their work cause it went off warranty when i removed my oil pan all the bolts were so loose i could take out by hand and the pan fell off when i got all bolts off i used motorcraft silicone my cruze only had 75000 miles on it 2013 i use to work at GM doing electrical repair and i find your videos interesting since I'm retired now
I always loved the styling of the Chevy Cruz despite being fairly mediocre, but these things are ticking time bombs. Especially the turbo versions. We used them for patrol for a few years, ours had been the non-turbo version thank god. Cheap plastics made it easy to keep clean... but that car was always in the shop. It was not built for patrol duty for sure.
Heads up, the PCV (specifically the notorious check valve that fails on the big 1.4L) is in the intake manifold, not the valve head cover. It's a Cruze thing. Lots of people make the mistake of replacing the valve cover alone when there's a PCV failure. They need to replace the intake as well. When the PCV fails and blowby can't escape, pressure builds and finds ways out through gaskets and seals, which is what causes the oil leaks. There is a third party external replacement option. Just replaced the seals inside and out on the oil cooler for mine recently so I'm very familiar with the engine now. Edit to add: Chevy have warranty extensions announced for both the valve cover and intake replacements if done before the 120k miles cutoff. Anybody who had it done before the announcement to address the problem can get a refund if the work was done by an approved service provider and you have the receipt.
I've seen many similar cracks in Mitsubishi turbo's as used in lots of Volvo's. Those cracks will gradually grow larger over time as the hot exhaust gasses will keep on acting like a continious cutting torch. The boost lag will increase at the same time. But it takes a good deal of time/miles gefore it really becomes a problem.
Ahhh, the infamous Kit and Caboodle. I love this phrase. Eveyone uses it, sort of knows what it means and just moves on with their day. But, what does it really mean? A KIT is a set of tools. Often believed to have derived from "King's In Trust" in reference to the equipment and uniforms provided to a soldier or sailor. A kit is not necessarily a complete set or outfit. Rather it is likely to change based on location or job requirement. However, a Caboodle is in fact a complete set of something. In usage, you would state that you have the whole caboodle, meaning you have all of the possible pieces. For example, you may have a set of sockets, but if there are skips, you don't have the whole caboodle. By saying kit and caboodle you are in fact referencing everything. Whether a complete set or not. Rather like dealing with the IRS. When they say they want to see it all, they do in fact mean the kit and caboodle. Even if you didn't think it was relevant. Kinda like the 16mm they like to leave out and the 10mm that always goes missing. Bring spares. Keep up the good work Eric, we love the videos.
I'm always careful about what I suggest to a master mechanic because I'm no mechanic just a weekend DIYer. So you probably already know about this sealer/gasket maker. I've used a product called "The right stuff". It ain't cheap but it's a 1 minute cure so the machine can be put back into service almost immediately. Anyway, just two cents from someone not really qualified to suggest anything.
I have the 2017 Cruze with the BIG 1.4 turbo. i am glad they made a separate small bolt on piece to the oil pan for in case the drain plug gets damaged.
i had one of these, loved that car. everything you are doing i have had done or did myself. which makes me laugh. Actually the PCV going bad on the early '13s and to '11s was a none failure point but chevy never put out a recall, it had to fail for first ( makes things very fun.) the turbo was also a terrible design, the waste gate is all integrated into the turbo, can't do a repair on it without replacing the whole unit
Love doing these at work, I don’t normally drop the exhaust for the oil pan, did last time since I had to take the whole manifold out to get the oil cooler assembly out and got an oil pan too made it super easy
Wow. From 1970-1974 I spent my workdays standing next to a giant power press, where a man was shaping the Oldsmobile oil pan out of sheet steel. Now I see this. That is a cast aluminum pan. Cast! Not stamped.
Great video Eric my sister has a Chevy Trax 1.7D and I am 'in charge' of manitenance...so anything along Chevy lines in the small engined range is of interest
As a life-long shade-tree mechanic, I always use bungee cords to hold up disconnected exhaust pipes. It's a lot easier than a strap and hooks on anything under the car.
I’m just happy to find out a cracked compressor housing is normal, I’ll throw the HE351 I have on the shelf on marketplace tomorrow! Regret spending all that money to replace/upgrade it now though… 🤦🏻♂️
"Kit and caboodle" (which is the most common form) dates back to the mid-eighteenth century and appeared first in England. There are a number of variants, including "kit and kerboodle" and "kit and boodle." The "kit" part of the phrase is of fairly straightforward origin, "kit" being an 18th century English slang term for "outfit" or "collection," as in a soldier's "kit bag," which contained all his worldly possessions. "Kit" may have come from "kith," meaning "estate," found today in the phrase "kith and kin." "Caboodle" is a tougher nut to crack. As usual, there are a number of theories, the most likely of which traces "boodle" back to the Dutch word "boedel," meaning "property." Lawyers take note: "boodle" actually was a respectable word in its own right (meaning "estate") in the 17th and 18th centuries, and was even used in legal documents. But why "caboodle" or "kerboodle"? The "ca" and "ker" may be related to the intensive German prefix "ge," giving the sense "the whole boodle." Put it all together and you get "kit and caboodle," meaning "everything and all of everything," down to the last kitten.
@@LadyAnuB Yeah! When he said it, it made me want to find out. We have some pretty strange sayings, and we never stop to think about where they come from. I guess the main thing is we understand the meaning.
Great repair process video. Also, good information regarding the parts that usually fail by a certain time or mileage. You have to wonder how some shops figure it is fair to a customer to strip threads on an oil pan and then use a one time quick fix bolt. The car didn't come in that way so, they owe the customer for a new oil pan with good threads in it. Not often but even some of the better shops will stoop that low if it happens to them. Well, don't strip them in the first place...use a torque wrench or leave it less tight if in question. Seems to be a lot of inferior parts failing on that type of vehicle...sad that the engineers can be paid and get away with that process.
we have a 2017 chevy trax same engine.... allready put a turbo...valve cover for the pcv leak... evap perg cel....spark plugs ..one of the coolant hoses ....oh yea all most forgot..... valve cover gasket X2 again....has bout 97000mls ...hope it holds together????....mrs. o is such a good sport!!!!!
I have been retired from the mechanic trade for 17 years. Every so often, I think I miss the work, I watch one of your videos and in a New York Minute I relax and an thankful to be retired.
About the same amount my Dad has been retired. He has the same feelings. Misses it then sees the non sense going on with stuff today.
Retired 5 years don't miss it
C'mon Bob, you miss bustin loose rusted bolts, don't lie.😂
Probably wouldn't have retired if I didn't live in New England.
Cmon not that bad. What could’ve changed on cars in 17 years 😂
We just love it when Mrs. O makes her cameo appearances. They way you both interact with each other is pure entertainment ! Keep em coming Eric. Remember folks, Mr. O is a PRO !!
Creepy
@@Whosoever141 Yes.
I love that when you told Mrs O it was an emergency she switched from a brisk walk to a slow saunter.
As a Northern Ohio resident, I can attest to the bolt eating rust we have around here. Any time I can work on a car from the south, or dry places like Arizona/Utah; it's a dream.
I spent the first few years as a tech in Philadelphia where I lived my whole life and then moved to Georgia where I’ve been for over ten years, it is an absolute dream working as a technician down here lol, there’s no way in hell I’ll ever move back to an area up north
I moved to Western New York from Tennessee (what was I thinking?) And moved witb a Mazda B3000. Mechanic doing the inspection called me in the shop. He said have a good look now cause you'll never see it this way a again. He was soooooooo right.
Born and raised in Phoenix. Some of the shops I’ve worked in didn’t even have a torch. I didn’t learn how to use one until I moved to Indiana and had to work out there for a year. I had already been a mechanic for 5 years at that point. Arizona cars are so easy to work on.
I follow many automotive channels from well known youtubers,but this is my favorite.
Don't understand that this channel hasn't reached the 1 million subscribers yet
I was around when we were hoping to reach 50k subscribers. He will get there, nobody does auto repair better.
It is frustrating to have a car leaking oil top to bottom. Looks like it turned out ok. Your hero Mrs. O to the rescue.
Man, the Chevy Snuze is quintessential modern GM design philosophy.
Plastic coolant housing that fails notoriously? ✔️
PCV system that's prone to clogging and sending oil pissing out the rear main? ✔️
Small displacement engine with a turbo made of cardboard and pot metal? ✔️
Cheap plastic EVERYTHING as far as the eye can see? ✔️
If a GM car has a turbo, and it ain't a Grand National, I'll take my chances walking.
Yep! All the more reason why I just walked away and steer clear from all vehicle that has more plastic parts in them than a properly design and well thought-out build vehicle that made sense with the right material. The entire design and layout has to look good and made sense before I even shell out a ton of money on a new car. A slight hint of cheap and odd ball layout is usually a tell tale sign of a poorly built vehicle is just not worth the headache in the long run.
I see the grey silicon works on the same principle than anti seize. You use a little and a short time later you have it in your arm pits. :-)
3 weeks later its on your best suit as you're about to go out!
Or on mom's couch 60 miles away
@@machintelligence are you talking about that evil black window glue that stuff will take skin off when u remove it
@@jeremyhanna3852 looks like youtube removed his comment? Why, I don't know. YES! PU sealer, the devil's offspring of coppersnot.
@@monkehbitch Due to some glitch in TH-cam, my comment showed up on another channel. When removed it there, it disappeared here as well. ?????
I was referring to urethane caulk and adhesive, especially the self-leveling caulk. It gets all over everything.
Customer: "The inside of my turbo looks like cracked glass"
GM: "That's normal"
LOL
Same goes for the Turbo's on the EcoBoost. Same exact things happen...it's "Normal". Normal at 80K Miles? NO! But welcome to my world. $3200 repair bill at 80K miles because the Turbo designed to last 150K+ miles eats itself at 80K miles. Wasn't happy about that for sure....
VW too
@@WreckDiver99 That is the reason why I don't have a car with a turbo. I highly doubt that I will ever buy a car with a turbo even though I do love the new Nissan Z sports car.
@@markkrispin6944 I won't get another...unfortunately EcoBoost is EVERYWHERE in the Ford world, and considering where I work? Yea.....well...yea...LOL
The "GM Mark of Excellence".
I think they call that a "mechanic's knot" if I recall correctly. Love it!
As we used to say on the boats,"If you can't tie a knot,tie a lot".
LOL! That's a good one!
NOTE TO ERIC: When doing an oil pan, I usually use 2 short studs in the engine block oil pan holes to center / guide the pan up for a perfect placement !!! This prevents any scrapes of the sealant, and takes just an extra minute as opposed to redoing it all again because of a tiny leak. Just an FYI tip from a master !!! A salty old dog is never to old to learn a new trick !!! It's about time you have a video where I can finish my cup of coffee and snack just as you are about to wrap the job up. Kudos on the great sealing of the oil pan with the sealant - nice job and NO leaks - Hurrah !!!!!! Never underestimate the value of a good wife and exhaust train holder !!! A box of sugar free candies is always a nice thank you for her help, along with a kiss !!! Hasn't failed me yet !!! Waiting for part two to finish off this vehicle and make it worry free to the owner !!! Well done Eric & Vanessa !!!!!!!
um, ok
Given how often turbos fail, I'm a little surprised there aren't more quality videos of how to diagnose and replace a turbo. Just sayin', we'd love to watch you do one.
I agree, I hate doing them. Have only done a few so don’t have a solid process to do them quiet yet. All my coworkers don’t like em either
The coolant line was the worst one for me older 1.4s it seems the ac compressor bracket is fully out of the way, newer ones cover that bolt by a quarter inch so you cant get a socket on it and the acess was already bad, i had the stuff so i swapped it to an6, really helped for the headgasket job i ended up doing because i can just unbolt the turbo and flop it away from everything.@@orchestracelloplayer
As soon as you said coolant leak, i immediately thought of that thermostat housing! We replace them with an all alloy unit, and once you even look at the pipe that goes to the throttle body it'll break so that gets ordered at the same time...
Where did you order the housing from. I would like to get those same components. Thanks
Like the gentle reminder with the oil cap. Beeing a boat mechanic i have got a lot of tricks learned from .people like you , Eric. Its bad to forget adding oil to an engine ofcourse.
An artist at work is a sight to behold. Your attention to detail is an inspiration. One little oversight can cost time & money. I hope the new techs are watching & learning from one of the best!
Thanks, Eric! I own a 2011 with the same exact engine and I’ve done my own maintenance on it. The oil pan gasket was next on my list and I learned an easy way from you using some support! Otherwise, I would’ve ended up using a Jack stand to hold the exhaust up and fully take off the catalytic converter. Mine has 152K on it and like you pointed out about the crack by the wastegate in the turbo, mine is a bit bigger than that one, and it is really a problem with underboost codes. GM’s “fix” is to reprogram the ECM to allow more room for boost loss before it trips the CEL. What a crock of crap. Overall, these cars are fun to work on, plenty of elbow room, and leaks that makes the Niagara Falls look like a small seep with all the plastic they used in it.
If you haven't done so, Check for boosts leaks elsewhere in the intake system. You can easily make a test kit. Buy a 2inch rubber cap from home depot and secure to the inlet of the turbo. Then using a pressure regulator, a pressure guage and 5/16ths fuel hose.. Pressurise the inlet manifold to 20 psi.. You might be amazed the the intake system leaks like a freaking sieve! Even my inlet manifold was split along the bottom seam at one point.. I JB welded the split some 20k miles ago. No more underboost codes.. See my note above about replacing and/or insulating the oil feed line to the turbo.
There isn't a gasket that I'm aware of . I used a back rtv on mine and it has been good for 2 years now.
No if the oil cooler is leaking the only way I was able to fix this was to replace it with oem one.
The issue isn't the plastic. It's the CHEAP EUROPEAN plastic they used. Look at a 20yo European car...the plastic turns to dust.
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Amen Bro ... it is simply amazing !!! 3 year old M3 in Brussels and dash cracks/door insert debonds ... and it ain't like they get but 2 weeks of Summer a year !!! I WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER GERMAN CAR EVER !!!
@@TylersNeighborhoodGarage Not just European plastic. I'm in the UK, and 20 years ago the plastic coolant crossover pipe on the intake manifold of one of our Lincoln Town Car limos (which was only 3 years old at the time) split and dumped all the coolant on the road. After that we replaced them all with the modified manifolds with aluminium coolant pipes. Ford evidently had realised they shouldn't make them out of plastic by that time.
I hope the pause in the video when Vanessa said that's the only reason and gave you that look. was due to you giving her at least a big hug. I know when my wife said that and gave me that look, my heart melted and my knees got weak. I'd have to hug her to keep from falling down.
"Don't fight her, Terry. Hold her! Hold her! Stay with her, Terry!" -- parody of line from Airplane II: The Sequel.
Best part about these videos is when mrs. O comes out. Watching yall 2 after being married so long and seeing that the spark is still there is great. 😎😎😎
After watching other Mechanic do diagnostics you are the best. So many forget the basic that you preach ALL the time visual check and Common sense.
I bought one of these piles brand new in 2014. It was a 1.4T with the manual which was a fun little combo but the body was horribly rattly and squeaky after only a year. I traded it in within 13 months for a 2015 Outback and never looked back to GM. I've since traded in the Subie for a Toyota and never looked back at Subie either. Although I miss the symmetrical AWD.
Not much left of any “symmetrical” AWD on the newer Subarus, pure marketing shtick.
@@gtemnykh not quite true. Most manual Subies still have a 50/50 torque split front to rear only the STI has a manual and a driver selected torque split, you can rear wheel bias. Now autos and the cvt models do thing a little different but are generally 60/40 split in normal conditions.
I'm with you on this one. There's no way in hell I would put up with this kind of nonsense.
My 13-year-old Toyota has 384,000 on it.
Had to swap an oil pan because the threads stripped out, about 20 .. 10 mm bolts.. and pops right off. Exhaust is in the back of against the firewall so it's never in the way under the engine cradle.
Car stills dry as a bone on the bottom of it even if that mileage. Far as I know it's never even had the valve cover off.
@@gtemnykh Ya think? But you'd be completely wrong. In Subaru terms it relates to configuration of the drive system & absolutely nothing to do with torque split. The system is setup along the centerline of the vehicle to balance both performance & traction = symmetrical. You'll notice when you get into a Subaru there's a big ass trans tunnel because it's engine -> trans -> axle.............not at all like the majority of front biased systems (aka FWD w/ a power take off to the rear).
@@ejjackson2573 ok, well newer Subarus just seem completely lame offroad, cooking their CVTs and viscous couplings into “limp mode” lmao. I like the older ones, head gaskets and all.
Love watching your videos. Glad to see Mrs O came out. The brains of the operation and way easier on the eyes. 😀
Lol. Nice one.
FOOL, SHE HAS NO CLUE???????????
I've owned a 2012 since it was 2 years old. I don't think its ever stopped leaking coolant from somewhere ever since we've had it. This car drove us to buy a brand new Honda Passport this year as this will be the last car we own with a Chevvy badge on it!
Oh ho, workin late tonight huh, gotta be at least 3:30 PM, gotta love that daylight savings
So what is the secret to finding a good shop/tech? If I wasn't 5 hours from you, everything I own would be at your shop for everything. Love the work you do!
Only 5 hours?Doesnt sound to bad to me for the peace of mind it would bring.8 hours and 500 miles...roughly for me.
And if I can do it....umm..not this time I would not even try. Every time I watch one of Eric's videos it confirms that he is possibly the best auto repair shop and automotive technician I have ever seen.
Nothing like a tried and true wrench video with a sprinkling of the beautiful Mrs. O. Thanks Mr. O!
Hey there Eric O! Down in va at my Chevy dealer we just loosen that v band clamp and rotate the car out of the way of the oil pan, makes it easier to sneak the pan out versus removing the whole cat!
That turbocharger is absolutely adorable.
Hey, when you DO swap it, can I have the old one to make a Christmas Tree ornament?
hehe
Good ole Chevrolet! Keeping mechanics in business all these years!
The GM '1.4 Turbo" is not the engine displacement rather its how many quarts of oil you lose per day and the speed at which it flows.
Another good one Eric. Watching these repairs sure makes me miss the old days.
Looks like a great time to trade that one in. Tires, turbo and oil cooler are going to be one heck of a bill.
It's not worth anything as a trade in. The guy's right to drive it until the roof falls in. The next repairs will be around 2K, you can't replace it for that.
@@ralfie8801 best time to trade/sell any car right now in the insane market here in the US! My wife's junk POS 2018 jeep renegade with 25k was a nightmare and getting close from experied warranty. Bought it for 29k, we traded it in for 27k
@@jmabs5096 The trade in value is great. It sucks thou when you try to replace it. Everything is overpriced. Ask me how I know
These EcoTec engines have some engineering flaws; the oil cooler repair should be good for another 100k miles. Fixing suddenly becomes economical when used car inflation hits 50%+, with good cars difficult to find.
@@jmabs5096
You still can’t replace it for that, if it’s not having trouble every week, why trade? It’s a lot less costly to fix one for 2 or 3K every few years than it is to trade one in and spend more than you got in trade just because the tires need replacing or it drips a few drops of oil now and then.
Only one of mine has less than 300K on the clock and they can’t be replaced for anything remotely close to what I spend on maintenance, which is basically nothing.
For the most part, people in the rust belt drive them until the roof rusts in around them, they don’t last that long there.
Where I live, they last forever, and you drive them forever, a little maintenance every once in a while costs way less than trading one in just because it’s tires get worn out.
Proper repair for these cars: 1. disconnect high pressure fuel line from injector rail 2. Crank for 20 seconds 3. toss match into engine bay
lol, so true
Hahaha
From the “ factory “ 😂
I like the way you think when it comes to rusty bolts in exhaust systems. They are like sleeping tigers. You don't mess with them if possible.
Appreciate you working after hours to do a vid. I see that night outside the window.
I feel like I dodged a bullet. I had intended to buy a low priced one of these as a runabout clunker but the dude never got back to me. Being a masochist, I ended up taking a 3 cylinder Fiesta SFE instead. To its credit it has been rock solid, but I bet it won’t always be 😂
Thanks Eric, I've got a Cruze I have to keep running at least past the payments, so some day this will help.
Easy like Budda. You make it look way to easy. Years of experience shows. Love watching your videos. Mrs. O your AWESOME.
I see people askin about the silicone dispenser. GTE Masterbead Adhesive Dispenser, GTEMB1. I can't find it in stock anywhere but.. At least ya know. There might be more options for 4oz silicone dispensers out there if ya search.
Love how you are with Mrs. O. Sure seems like a great Lady. Always like watching your posts, and I learn something too! Cheers from Alberta Canada.
I thought you were just suppose to put an oil drip pan under the vehicle. If you ever get in a knot over it, forget about Eric helping you out. Late night chasing oil leaks. Glad I've reached the point where I can shut the lights out and go home to dinner. Thanks for Sharing!
Great video Eric.
Them Chevy cruzes notorious for oil leaks all over.
Thank again from staten island
Dude must really like his car, to put that much work and parts into it.
Mr O is one of the few mechanics when he says "trust me" I will!!
2 of my favorite powertrains from Chevy.....1.4L & 1.8L as I will never be out of work!😂
Now now the 1.8 is a great engine actually
I've had two gars with the 1.4. The first took me a lot of miles but I needed a bigger car. The second The one I drive now has been great too. Proper maintenance helps.
@@sparkedclipper2082 Accurate, I have a 2011 Eco with the 1.4 that has 190,000 MI all that's ever been changed on it other than maintenance parts is the valve cover
One time I dealt with this Smart-Alek salesman at a local motorcycle shop. I was rebuilding the engine of an old Honda XL-175 enduro which had sucked a valve. I asked him if he carried torque wrenches. He said, "No. You don't need a torque wrench to rebuild these engines". Well, then, I asked him, how do I get the correct torque on the head bolts? He replied: the correct torque is a quarter-turn before they strip. Non-plussed, I asked: "How often should these be rebuilt?" He replied: "when they blow up"... Needless to say, I never darkened the doors of that business again.
First time seeing a pickup built into the pan!
Yes, grey RTV is my go-to Room Temperature Vulcanizion.
Thanks for your efforts in making these videos!
I love Mrs. "O's" little cameo appearances Eric, you should have her on your videos more often. 👍
Wow... what timing. I just had one of these last week. Someone had heli-coiled the drain and really messed it up. I changed the pan and also it had quite a water pump leak, as well. Customer declined that... for now. All in all, not a bad job. Except for putting that turbo clamp back on.
I hate that clamp as well, so I don't take the catalytic converter off. I just remove the rear engine mount and the flex pipe and the pan just slides right out.
The amount of these that crapped themselves here in Europe is legendary, and the related 3 Cyl Engine which was also Junk, Oil specifications was updated to combat LSPI very important to use the correct lubricant in these little grenades. Great Channel 👍
I think what happens with a lot of modern cars is the owner just changes the oil based on the oil life monitor. they take it to a quick change place whenever the car tells them to. I have found these systems to over estimate oil life in Hondas leading to eventual oil consumption due to stuck oil control rings (K24 engines). In 2007 BMW introduced their turbocharged N54 engine. The same year the dealers were offering a new incentive to cover the cost of maintenance for the first 4 years including oil changes. That same year the recommend oil change interval went from 7500 to 15000 miles. 15000 miles for a turbo is suicide and many of these cars developed turbo problems due to worn journal bearings.
Sadly the car companies can't be trusted to give you the proper knowledge to ensure your car lasts for more than about 7 years or 100,000 miles.
I have been using 7500 mile OCIs on the BMW and it has 190,000 miles (new turbos installed at about 75,000). I just changed the oil in the Honda (110,000 miles with 2 quart oil consumption in 10,000 miles) and will be using a 7500 mile OCI on it going forward.
@@Fix_It_Again_Tony True, using the full OLM and even exceeding it, with the most basic oils, and never topping up.
Hi, SMA. They keep making cars smaller and adding more fiddly-bits as well. Thanks for sharing! Stay Healthy!
Lots of great little tips in this, especially the one about using a toothbrush size wire brush to get the last bits of old silicone out of the grooves (in the block) caused by the original machining work.Mrs O didn't seem very pleased when you first said "you're good for one thing" though !
Thanks Mr. O. It could just be a coincidence but I do appreciate you making these videos on these 1.4t’s. I own two and have done a lot a work to them but kinda nice to see how to do it correctly 😂
Awesome job Mr O as we all know the grey stuff is the recommended stuff for synthetic oil....
It is utterly amazing to watch Eric and Mrs O. Just a delight.
Ok
Ok
I was helping a friend in his shop when he had a Tech quit spur of the moment leaving him with a huge backlog. We had a small 4 cyl GM car that was pouring oil around the oil pan. It had jus been to the local GM dealer for the same issue... They didnt get the 2 surfaces clean enough or dry enough and the gray stuff didnt even stick. Took more time cleaning up and getting it dry enough than to take the pan off and put it back. I let it sit over nite and drip drip drip.
Definitely job security when these break. As a owner of 2 I have done 1 oil pan and 2 turbo repairs. Best parts are oem ones for these cars.
The crack is normal if small but like mine it was boosting out the back of the turbo p0299. Be safe
So the best parts you can buy are OEM? But you had to put two turbos in it?
I've heard the same thing out of the Buick encores where they've had 3-5 turbos go out. Absolutely ridiculous.
I'll stick with my Toyota. Boring as hell but 13 years old and 384,000 Miles.
The only reason I ever had to change the oil pan is because an oil change place stripped out the plug not because it ever leaked a drop. 10 bolts drops right off the bottom can have it swapped in about 15 minutes.
@@kens97sto171 As Scotty says "they last and last".
@@kens97sto171 I don't know why everyone is saying the Cruze is trash, I had 250k on mine and got $2K for a trade in - still had the original turbo in ran great, started right up every time. I did all my own work on it and never had any big failures. At 250k it did need some wok (oil pan and turbo cooler) - had the parts but didn't want to do it during the lockdown last year.
@@jimbob2861
Might depend upon when it was built. I know the early 1.4 turbos had an iron block I believe later on they changed the design to aluminum.
I Actually used to haul freight into the plant that cast and machined that engine. It's in defiance Ohio. They also built every V6 and V8 cast iron block GM makes for North America as well as the Duramax diesel.
That was a pretty cool place. They had a giant pile of defect engine blocks, defect rate was only about 1%. They would find some defect in the casting during the machining process and it would get tossed in a giant pile and put back in the furnace and remelted.
Always surprised me how small the 1.4 iron block was and actually how light it was.
Maybe later models got worse after they switched to aluminum, I've heard several TH-cam repair channels talking about high turbo failure rates there's a lot of GM vehicles that run that 4 cylinder turbo. There's some videos on the car wizard TH-cam channel. He had a Buick encore in for repair that was already on its fourth turbocharger.
Who knows, there's a lot of stuff being built today by all manufacturers that are a lot crappier than they used to be. And aftermarket parts supply has turned to absolute shit too.
Glad you had good luck with your car. I actually always liked the Chevy Cruze as far as the way it drove I always thought it looked pretty good too.
It’s a Garrett turbo…like should be good.
Free tip
If you don't want to smear the silicone while lifting up the pan, screw a couple of studs into the block first, so that as you lift the pan up and locate it onto the studs, it will hold perfectly still while you screw the bolts in. Then of course pull the studs out and finish the job
I buy a ton of these to sell and GM knows that internal turbo crack is not normal they just do not want to replace a million or so. These 1.4 motors are great little motors once you fix all of the poor engineering coolant issues, PVC issues etc. I've got to do one of these today, at least you can get to all of the bolts on these without pulling motor.
I've never seen a tool for applying silicone. Now I'm shopping again thanks to SMA. Thanks
Thanks Eric, it is always amazing to watch you do the repair and to hear your thought process.
Lol! Webster defines caboodle as "all things in a group". I always heard the saying but never knew the exact meaning either. So there you go. The more you know.... 🤣 Another great video as usual and now you know what to do with your kit and caboodle. 😁
Eric, great job as usual. You might tell the guy not to take the car into one of the quick lube joints in the future. Staff are very poorly trained, rush through the job and care little for quality. You might also tell him not to get any "flushes" from places like that.
I do fluids at the dealer. Same price as other joints, but if they fuck it up they fix or replace it. I also have a highly reputable Honda dealer I go to for my acura so that helps. Never harass me for up sales, either. I feel like I got lucky with them.
Not a big Chevy fan or a newer car fan for that matter but that one didn't seem too difficult to work on even with the turbo and being compacted into a tight space.
I had to change a cooling fan on my wife’s Chevy Cruze last year. Has the same engine. I didn’t even have to pull the entire front end off the car to do it. Just basically undo the lower radiator hose, unhook the electrical connector to the fan and push down on one tab on either side of the fan assembly and wiggle it out. It actually took more time to try to figure it out than it actually did to remove it. The rest of this car is like working on Legos. That’s except for the oil pan which my wife smashed going over a curb. That we took in to a mechanic to get it replaced, To this day I don’t know why she didn’t grenade the engine.
Mrs. O, the real Hero of SMA.
And no silicon parts either!
What I would like to know is when Harley Davidson started doing engineering for GM since most GM's now seem to leak like Harleys do.......lol
1) The PCV valve is actually inside the Inlet manifold (and usually disappears into the engine in fairly short order). The diaphram in the valve cover then gets over pressurised and ruptures causing the leak and the lean code.. Or it just ruptures anyway and causes the same problem. You can get an after market kit that provides a brass check valve to bypass the PCV in the inlet man.. You then plug up the old PCV valve.. This avoids replacing a $300 inlet manifold and.. wait for it.. it actually works!
2) The crack in the turbo housing is "usually" not a problem.. A far bigger issue is boost leaks! Pressure testing the intake system showed up several leak points (even a huge split in the inlet manifold one time). When I plugged up all the leaks the boost code went away and normal acceleration was restored.
3) Turbo failures most likely occur to oil drying up in the poorly insulated turbo oil supply line. Which then starves the bearings. I replaced my line and added extra insulation.
4) seal kits are available (after market) for the oil cooler.. But I understand why you would just replace the whole cooler.
5) Death Cool seems to destroy hoses from the inside. Mine were rotten at 125k miles, so I replaced them all.
6) as you pointed out the turbo oil return line will snap like a carrot when you touch it..:)
7) I still have the original thermostat and water pump at $130k miles.. I'm personally amazed!
Update to the above.. The thermostat exploded and dumped ALL the coolant immediately. Thankfully Wifey was fast on the key and got it shutdown before it warped its head! Nowdays you can get both an aluminium thermostat and coolant outlet tee. Of course these aftermarket upgrades came just AFTER I replaced them with the original plastic crap. I have a love/hate with this car and subsequently bought a new Honda Passport!..:)
this was the first video of yours i watched cause i was changing my oil pan on my cruze the dealer changed my oil pan and it leaked and of course they would not fix their work cause it went off warranty when i removed my oil pan all the bolts were so loose i could take out by hand and the pan fell off when i got all bolts off i used motorcraft silicone my cruze only had 75000 miles on it 2013
i use to work at GM doing electrical repair and i find your videos interesting since I'm retired now
One of the cleanest rust free cars I’ve ever seen on your channel Eric.Nice video.
Seems to be self-applying anti-rust in daily driving! :-)
Mrs. O brings the likes 👍 up ❤️👩🔧
I always loved the styling of the Chevy Cruz despite being fairly mediocre, but these things are ticking time bombs. Especially the turbo versions. We used them for patrol for a few years, ours had been the non-turbo version thank god. Cheap plastics made it easy to keep clean... but that car was always in the shop. It was not built for patrol duty for sure.
got one of these in the 2016 non turbo flavor.. bought it new, not a horrible car, im a water pump, timing belt, battery and headlight in debt so far
Love watching the interaction between you and Mrs O.
Heads up, the PCV (specifically the notorious check valve that fails on the big 1.4L) is in the intake manifold, not the valve head cover. It's a Cruze thing. Lots of people make the mistake of replacing the valve cover alone when there's a PCV failure. They need to replace the intake as well. When the PCV fails and blowby can't escape, pressure builds and finds ways out through gaskets and seals, which is what causes the oil leaks. There is a third party external replacement option.
Just replaced the seals inside and out on the oil cooler for mine recently so I'm very familiar with the engine now.
Edit to add: Chevy have warranty extensions announced for both the valve cover and intake replacements if done before the 120k miles cutoff. Anybody who had it done before the announcement to address the problem can get a refund if the work was done by an approved service provider and you have the receipt.
Spot on, I own two of these cars unfortunately and can’t wait to get rid of them.
Isn't the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) involved in both the intake manifold and the valve cover? Or are you talking about the valve?
You and Mrs O are super cute in these videos. Always glad to see you interacting... 😍
1.4t, the best cruze ever. No issues whatsoever
I have the LTZ 2014 model. I've taken perfect care of the car. Now I know what to do when I need to service the oil pan if ever needed. Thank you.
I've seen many similar cracks in Mitsubishi turbo's as used in lots of Volvo's. Those cracks will gradually grow larger over time as the hot exhaust gasses will keep on acting like a continious cutting torch. The boost lag will increase at the same time.
But it takes a good deal of time/miles gefore it really becomes a problem.
when Mrs O said, it's not hot is it ? I expected Eric to say no, but You Are !
Ahhh, the infamous Kit and Caboodle. I love this phrase. Eveyone uses it, sort of knows what it means and just moves on with their day. But, what does it really mean?
A KIT is a set of tools. Often believed to have derived from "King's In Trust" in reference to the equipment and uniforms provided to a soldier or sailor. A kit is not necessarily a complete set or outfit. Rather it is likely to change based on location or job requirement.
However, a Caboodle is in fact a complete set of something. In usage, you would state that you have the whole caboodle, meaning you have all of the possible pieces. For example, you may have a set of sockets, but if there are skips, you don't have the whole caboodle.
By saying kit and caboodle you are in fact referencing everything. Whether a complete set or not.
Rather like dealing with the IRS. When they say they want to see it all, they do in fact mean the kit and caboodle. Even if you didn't think it was relevant. Kinda like the 16mm they like to leave out and the 10mm that always goes missing. Bring spares.
Keep up the good work Eric, we love the videos.
I'm always careful about what I suggest to a master mechanic because I'm no mechanic just a weekend DIYer. So you probably already know about this sealer/gasket maker. I've used a product called "The right stuff". It ain't cheap but it's a 1 minute cure so the machine can be put back into service almost immediately. Anyway, just two cents from someone not really qualified to suggest anything.
I have the 2017 Cruze with the BIG 1.4 turbo. i am glad they made a separate small bolt on piece to the oil pan for in case the drain plug gets damaged.
i had one of these, loved that car. everything you are doing i have had done or did myself. which makes me laugh. Actually the PCV going bad on the early '13s and to '11s was a none failure point but chevy never put out a recall, it had to fail for first ( makes things very fun.) the turbo was also a terrible design, the waste gate is all integrated into the turbo, can't do a repair on it without replacing the whole unit
Love doing these at work, I don’t normally drop the exhaust for the oil pan, did last time since I had to take the whole manifold out to get the oil cooler assembly out and got an oil pan too made it super easy
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Wow. From 1970-1974 I spent my workdays standing next to a giant power press, where a man was shaping the Oldsmobile oil pan out of sheet steel. Now I see this. That is a cast aluminum pan. Cast! Not stamped.
lol you and O have such a good dynamic... haven't seen ya in a while ........ i mean i see you when i wake up
Great video Eric my sister has a Chevy Trax 1.7D and I am 'in charge' of manitenance...so anything along Chevy lines in the small engined range is of interest
A strap holding the exhaust system was a nice added support
Watch all your videos! Thanks for working on Sunday.
As a life-long shade-tree mechanic, I always use bungee cords to hold up disconnected exhaust pipes. It's a lot easier than a strap and hooks on anything under the car.
I’m just happy to find out a cracked compressor housing is normal, I’ll throw the HE351 I have on the shelf on marketplace tomorrow! Regret spending all that money to replace/upgrade it now though… 🤦🏻♂️
another good video thanks, surprised you wear a ring when pulling spanners, that was always a no no when i started my apprentaship
SMA - proud purveyor of Panther Pee since 2015.
"Kit and caboodle" (which is the most common form) dates back to the mid-eighteenth century and appeared first in England. There are a number of variants, including "kit and kerboodle" and "kit and boodle." The "kit" part of the phrase is of fairly straightforward origin, "kit" being an 18th century English slang term for "outfit" or "collection," as in a soldier's "kit bag," which contained all his worldly possessions. "Kit" may have come from "kith," meaning "estate," found today in the phrase "kith and kin."
"Caboodle" is a tougher nut to crack. As usual, there are a number of theories, the most likely of which traces "boodle" back to the Dutch word "boedel," meaning "property." Lawyers take note: "boodle" actually was a respectable word in its own right (meaning "estate") in the 17th and 18th centuries, and was even used in legal documents. But why "caboodle" or "kerboodle"? The "ca" and "ker" may be related to the intensive German prefix "ge," giving the sense "the whole boodle." Put it all together and you get "kit and caboodle," meaning "everything and all of everything," down to the last kitten.
Hey, too much enlightenment for this channel. 😅
@@LadyAnuB Yeah! When he said it, it made me want to find out. We have some pretty strange sayings, and we never stop to think about where they come from. I guess the main thing is we understand the meaning.
Mrs. O is a saint! Love your videos brother!
Great repair process video. Also, good information regarding the parts that usually fail by a certain time or mileage. You have to wonder how some shops figure it is fair to a customer to strip threads on an oil pan and then use a one time quick fix bolt. The car didn't come in that way so, they owe the customer for a new oil pan with good threads in it. Not often but even some of the better shops will stoop that low if it happens to them. Well, don't strip them in the first place...use a torque wrench or leave it less tight if in question.
Seems to be a lot of inferior parts failing on that type of vehicle...sad that the engineers can be paid and get away with that process.
Always nice to see Mrs O.
BTW: A caboodle is a complete group or collection of something.
we have a 2017 chevy trax same engine.... allready put a turbo...valve cover for the pcv leak... evap perg cel....spark plugs ..one of the coolant hoses ....oh yea all most forgot..... valve cover gasket X2 again....has bout 97000mls ...hope it holds together????....mrs. o is such a good sport!!!!!
It is very nice to see Old fashion nuts and bolts video