I can't believe i spent nearly 40mins listening about Scroll Saw blades? and i don't even own a Scroll Saw ha ha ha However a very informative view and great explanation on blades, which only you Kenny are the best at doing. I think i need a coffee now after that ha ha ha. Barry (ENG)
Glad to hear that you found the information useful Kara. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Once again thanks Kenny. This is the most informative video on scroll saw blades I have watched. Right level of detail, practical explanations and clear recommendations. No one could ask for more. All I have to do now is type up my notes, print them off, laminate them and have them ready near to the saw. Brilliant!
Glad to hear that you found it useful Mike. There is always confusion when trying to choose the right blade for the job and hopefully, this show (although long) will clear up some of that confusion. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words.
I'm glad that you found it useful. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have along the way and I will do my best to help where I can. Thanks for tuning in.
This video along with your 2 scroll saw videos are pure gold for those of us starting out with scroll work. The gold standard for scroll saw tutorials. Thanks 😎
Thanks for the kind words. If you ever have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What a fantastic video! SO informative! the demo of spiral blade gave me a greater appreciation for the tool. I can't wait to get some new blades, dust it off and actually start using it! Thanks so much
You're very welcome and I'm glad that you found the show useful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. You can either ask here or over on my show's facebook page. Whichever you prefer. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.
You are very welcome Barnie and I'm glad to hear that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
You will do just fine Robert. I have faith in you. If, at any point in time, you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out and ask. I would be more than happy to help out if I can. Good for you for learning this new area of woodworking. Thanks for tuning in to the program. If you haven't already, I do have a couple of beginner lessons on the channel. You can find them here. th-cam.com/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad that you have found the show useful and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You're very welcome Ann Marie. I'm glad that you found the show helpful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Ken, interesting show. I find that the majority of the time I use either a 2 or 3 reverse tooth and once in awhile a 7. You can probably guess that most of my work is in thinner stock. I have yet to try spiral blades but you make me want to give them a try. I am curious about the fretwork you showed, where did you get the pattern and what kind of wood did you use? It looked great. Thanks for the informative show. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
That patterns are of various sources Paul. Some, I make myself and others are from magazines etc. The wood that my scrolling is cut from is 1/4" thick solid oak and it really is a challenge to cut the intricate pieces in a coarse stock like oak without breaking pieces. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in my friend. It's great to hear from you.
TY for a fine production. At age 70, I am getting into scrolling so that I can SIT DOWN and still accomplish something. My chainsaw days are almost over.
It's never too late to learn Glen. Good for you for taking the initiative to try something new. Be sure to check out my videos "Scrolling For Beginners" Parts 1 and 2. They might help you along with some of the frustrations associated with learning something new. Thanks so much for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
The secret to good results with a scroll saw is simply practice, practice and more practice. Proper blade selection is important but you can't beat hours of experience when it comes to good results. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for a very informative video! I am new to scroll saws, and am delighted that I can get so much useful information from youtube. As the worlds (maybe) oldest apprentice, with help such as you offer, I may be a craftsman before age takes me off the planet.
I hope that you have many more years of your apprenticeship left in you Pat. Good luck on your scrolling adventure and if you ever have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for the information Charles. I have heard great things about Seyco and the staff out there. I'm sure that my American viewers will find this information useful.
Holy smoke, Kenny.....that scroll saw project you showed is an awesome piece, and I applaud both your skill and your patience!! Oddly, a scroll saw (my grandfather's old belt-driven beast!) was probably the first power tool I ever used, at about age nine or ten (back in the fifties!), but the one I know the least about, in terms of details like blade selection! That Excalibur saw is a beautiful tool, too. To start, I just got myself an inexpensive Ryobi, but it seems to serve my purposes OK...at least for now. it's variable speed and accepts plain end blades, so I'm free to select blades pretty freely, unlike a lot of other inexpensive saws (that I found only use pinned blades). I took your advice, though, and added a foot switch which has made things much more convenient. Thanks for clearing away much of the blade selection 'fog.' I'm in the midst of a project using 1/8" stock. The Olson spiral blades do make it easier (cutting out names written in cursive) but you are absolutely correct: I spend a lot of time with sanding sticks in my hand! LOL When I have more time, I'll get braver and try something similar using 'conventional' blades. Thanks again...and I look forward to your next video. :-)
Hang in there Norm. The scroll saw isn't something that comes naturally and it take a lot of practice to get it right. While spiral blades do have their place, for lettering in 1/8" stock, you would probably get better results from a #2 reverse tooth blade. While you edged may not be perfect, the amount of sanding that you need to do will be minimized. The perfect (or close to perfect) edges will come with practice. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it very much. If you haven't already, you might want to check out the two part series on scrolling for beginners here on the channel. It might give you some pointers on control and learning the craft. th-cam.com/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/w-d-xo.html If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
Just got a scroll saw a couple of weeks ago. I learned so much about the maddening variety of blades. Luckily when I bought my blades I bought Olsen in PGT, reverse tooth and some skip tooth. Not knowing anything them, now I do. Thanks
Sounds like you're all set for the scrolling experience. Be sure to ask any questions that you might have while you are learning about the saw. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
You didn't cover all the blades out there! Does that mean the will be a part 2? 😂 sorry, couldn't help myself... This very really informative and beneficial to me.
No, I think I've covered enough blades for now. LOL. Besides, I don't think that I could talk any more about it......okay, maybe I could. I do have the gift of gab after all. Thanks for tuning in again this week.
You're very welcome Rhonda. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It is very much appreciated.
I've never heard of anyone using this method but I can see where it might work. The masking tape might act as a sacrificial "board" that would support the back of the piece during cutting. You might be on to something. I will have to give this a try. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your question.
Another great tutorial. I'm thinking about getting my first scroll saw and your discussion about the blades will send me in the right direction. All the best to you Kenny.
Thanks for the kind words Robert. I'm glad that the show was useful to you. Knowing which blade to use when working on a project can be a very confusing things and I hope that this video will alleviate some of the confusion. Thanks for tuning in.
The variables of the materials you just mentions are endless. Plywood is largely varied in blades sizes according to thickness, the number of plys, the species of the plywood and how intricate and tight your design for cutting it. Hardwoods are also governed by the same variable but the species plays a huge part because the size blade you would use on walnut, would never cut through Purple Heart. Acrylics can be tricky and again, thickness plays a part in your blade selection but also, the speed of your saw also plays a huge part because heat is a contributing factor in getting a clean cut. Too much speed with a larger blade will create large pockets that melt back together, leaving a poor cut quality and a mess to clean up while using a smaller blade with too much speed will result in melting the acrylic immediately after cutting it, causing the blade to jam and possibly break. Metals are another completely different story. Thickness plays a huge part but for the most part, the blades that are used are a high TPI and they are run at extremely low speed to avoid friction and heat, and allow the gullets of the blade to clear the metal filing from the cut kerf. Basically what I'm saying is that there is a lot of experimenting that goes on with scroll but using the basic knowledge of this video will give you a starting point as to what blade to choose and what to expect from it. During the cut, if you know the signs to look out for, such as burning the wood, having to apply too much pressure to cut etc, you can adjust your blade choice accordingly and eventually it becomes second nature. It's pretty rare for me, after almost 30 years of scrolling, that I choose the wrong blade for the job. It's all about experience and knowing what to look out for and how to adjust accordingly. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I never knew there was so much variety, but you made it easier to understand. So, a 2R should be fine for medium hardness 1/" balsa wood. Do you have a suggestion for 1/2" balsa wing ribs (gentle curves)?
A 2R will be perfect for 1/4" balsa and for 1/2" balsa, I would consider a #3 PGT blade to be more than adequate. I hope this helps John. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Goodness professor you think we can handle all this. my brain was smoked 8 mins. in. I know im saving this so the next time I go to lowes to buy blades im going to blow there minds. they only have 2 types,i mean 2 different tpi in a regular straight blade. so now I'll pull this up and show them Professor Earrings knows that they can order more blades. ha ha thanks man
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. Professor Earrings. That's hilarious. I hope you intend to make me a t-shirt with this title on it. Thanks for tuning in this week and giving me the new title and a good laugh as well.
There has never been anyone in the history of scroll sawing that has ever lost a finger using a scroll saw Nancy so you have nothing to worry about. A little knick may happen from time to time but nothing serious. Good luck on your new hobby and please don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
Very informative video, i'm just starting out on a scroll saw. Olson blades are sold in my area. I have noticed that the two blades that you personally use are the #2, #3 reverse blades.
I mostly use those numbers with the #3 being a mach cut blade. The other blade that gets used a LOT is the #7 PGT from OLSON for thicker stock. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show Jeff.
I just bought a used scroll saw it only came with one blade.. I. Going into town tomorrow to grab a few blades.. this video was very Informative..thank you
Help please I have inherited a Power craft pfz 400 r n scroll saw ... no manual , so I havent a clue what type of blade i need , pinned or flat ! I will be subscribing so i can learn how to use this machine , thank you ( such a lovely workshop !)
I believe (but am not positive) that this saw takes the pinned end blades. I also believe that it came with an adapter for taking flat ended blades. Do you know if you have the adapter or not? I you would like to contact me via Facebook or email, you will be able to send pictures and I can help a little further but as it stands right now, the best I say is that your scroll saw will take the pinned end blades. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi, question, can a flat blade be used in an old scroll saw that has a pin holder ? All of the blades that I have used have the pin but apparently they don’t come in a smaller size blade? Thanks, I’m confused about what I can use.😜
If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1 are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
I liked your video.. But can you tell me why you got fan on full speed and you got three thick layers on.. Is it cold or hot or bit of both.. Lol. Anyway I like your videos. Thanks again
These shows are pre-recorded so this show would have been filmed in the winter. The fan is on top of the wood stove and circulates the heat and the 3 layers?.....well that keeps me from freezing until the shop warms up. The joys of a Canadian winter. LOL. Thanks for tuning in. Glad that you liked the show.
Congratulations on the new tool John. I hope it serves you well. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can.
I just picked up a used Craftsman scroll saw. It is a few years old but it is in mint shape, not a scratch. It also appears to work fine. I do not have the manual that comes with it. Is it safe to assume the blade length is 5 inches ? That seems to be the standard size for most scroll saws. The saw I bought did not come with a blade and it was sitting in a storage unit for a few years. Any maintenance (oiling and such) I should do to it before firing it up ? For $25 I found it hard to pass up, it powers up and the speed control is bang on
Older scroll saws had a different length blade but it would have to be very old for that. I would say that if the scroll saw taking un-pinned blades, then the chances are pretty good that they are a 5" length. It sounds like you've got yourself a great deal. Some scroll saws (like the Ryobi) have bearings that need to be oiled every so often. I would suggest googling the model number and seeing if you can find a manual. In most cases though, scroll saws are plug and play with no real lubrication needed. If you are concerned, you can always put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on anything that moves. It wont hurt the machine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You are very welcome Carlo. I'm glad that you enjoyed the shows. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
There are plenty of scroll saw related videos on the channel. If you go to the main page of my channel and look at the playlists, you will find one that is for scroll saw work. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck with your scrolling.
The universal blade numbers and the TPI are the same on the blades regardless of what you are cutting. There are not different blades for hard woods or soft woods. What is important is that you choose the correct blade for the species that you are cutting. It is a combination of thickness and harness that will determine what blade you use. For 1/2" thick pine (for example) you can probably get away with a #3 blade but would have to step it up to a #5 for 1/2" thick maple. I hope this helps a little Douglas. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The sizes of the blades are universal and they are rated for their thickness. They also have a rating as to what materials they are suited for cutting. You would have to check the individual manufacturer's blades specification to see what they recommend and that is why I don't really mention much in the way of materials in this video. While the blade numbers are basically the same for cutting various thicknesses, the materials will differ depending on brand. I hope this helps a little Humberto. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I got them at Lee Valley Brian. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/storage-and-organization/containers/32173-shop-storage-tubes I hope it helps. Thanks for tuning in.
You might want to check your model and see if there is a conversion kit available for it Brad. There are quite a few models that are capable of receiving a kit that will allow a "pinned blades only" setup, to use "pinless" blades. Something like this www.ebay.com/itm/Scroll-Saw-Blade-Holder-Conversion-Adapter-Set-to-take-Pin-Plain-End-Blades-/121350904110 I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This sounds like more of a blade issue than a saw issue. I know that the Dremel scroll saw isn't the most smooth operating machine but it will still cut with the proper blade. For 1/4" thick pine, you might want to try a universal #3 reverse tooth blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@acutabove_woodworkings thanks for clarification. Your work is amazing! You must be a very patient person... If I am working with wood from 2 mm thin to 1.5 cm thick...some soft and some hard...what 3 blades should I start out with. I know I want a reverse blade for minimal sanding. I will be potentially be making replacement pieces for inlay, name plates (cutting the names out of the middle), cutting out whole words thick enough to stand up on their own and probably jewellery pieces...oh and jewellery boxes... What is the make and model of the small accordian hose you have attached to your saw please?
The main blades that I would suggest are a #2 for thinner work, a #3 PGT for cuts up to 1/2" thick and a #7 PGT for cuts 1/2" and over. I hope this helps. The according air hose doesn't have a brand name. It is a part of the saw. Most scroll saws will come with a blower tube of some kind. Mine is just an accordion style. I hope this helps. Glad that you found the blade video. Thanks for tuning in.
I post two shows a week Darin. Tuesday is my show where I talk about whatever I feel like at the time. It can bee tool reviews or installations, or welding or whatever I feel like. Friday is the woodworking segment of the show where I usually demonstrate how to make something. I hope that you find plenty of shows on the channel to enjoy. There are over 500 episodes to choose from so there is probably something of interest to you. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
The lengths of the scroll saw blades are all the same Nolaw. They are 5" long regardless of the depth of the saw's throat. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you, that clears up a lot for me. I bought a Dewalt 788 years ago and have been scared to get started. I am disabled and am starting woodworking at 54 years old, and less likely, female, so I am different from most. I subscribed because it seems you really know a ton, and I want to learn. Thank you again, and please, keep making these. You are easy to understand.
I'm glad that you found this show to be useful for you Sandi. Scrolling is the most relaxing form of woodworking there is and once you get started, you wont be able to stop. I have two shows on the channel called "Scrolling for Beginners" and you might want to check them out. There is a ton of information in them that you might find useful. As for starting at age 54 and being female....I think it's awesome. You age has nothing to do with your ability to produce beautiful project and whether you are male of female has nothing to do with it. Some of the most incredible and artistic woodworkers are female and what really matters in the end, is how much you enjoy the hobby and the self satisfaction that it brings you. I just know that you will do fine. Good luck with your adventure and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have along the way. You can contact me via the channel's Facebook page or via email or through commenting on the show. Thanks so much for tuning in. (p.s. check out the scrolling projects playlist on the channel if you are looking for a little inspiration)
@@acutabove_woodworkings I watched the two part video on beginning scroll sawing first, and that gave me the courage to put the only blade I had, a 15, and a piece of pressboard paneling we had laying around, and finally use the saw. It was not ideal, but I was able to make straight lines and curves, over and over, until I ran out of scrap wood. I was very proud of getting past that hurdle of turning it on. I have been sewing since I was 10 and it reminds me a lot of how a sewing machine works, let the machine do the work, if you push or pull, it messes up the material. I still need a lot of practice and find a way to get more scrap wood. I bought new blades. I am already seeing a lot of ideas in my head. This has me very excited about my new hobby. I’ll be watching 😁
@@sandisslantoneverything My wife is often quite jealous of how I can sew a perfectly straight hem on her sewing machine and I contribute it to the years of scrolling. The main difference between the sewing machine and the scroll saw is that there is no blade drift on the sewing machine. It can really be challenging to control at times. Keep up the great work Sandi. I have all the faith in the world that you will master this in no time. You seem like you have your goals set. If you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I look forward to the day that pictures of your amazing projects show up in my email inbox so that they can be featured on my regular "viewer mail" segment of the show.
I have a scroll saw that I sometimes use for cutting acrylic tubing. The tubing has a 14mm OD and a 1.8mm wall thickness. What would be the perfect blade to use that would provide the smoothest burr-free finish? Thanks.
A burr free finish on acrylic tubing is a hard thing to accomplish. The problem is that there is more than one plane being cut during the operation which creates more than one area for burrs to occur. I would suggest something in the neighbourhood of a #5 PGT blade and reducing the speed of your saw to prevent overheating and melting the acrylic. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show
I don't have another "channel" Tom. This is the only channel that I have. There are two versions of the show on this channel though. There is the Friday episode of the show which is dedicated to woodworking and woodworking projects and then there is the Tuesday episode of the show (Alternative Tuesdays) where it can be anything from tool reviews, to welding, to rants, to shop tours and tool demonstrations. I do have a Facebook page for the show where projects that don't make it to filming are posted. If you'd like to check out any of that, the links are all in the "about" section of the channel's main page. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You're very welcome Jean. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You're very welcome Rose. This show is a basic guideline and is by no means written in stone. If you ever find that you are having issues with a certain sized blade cutting a certain thickness of material and a new, sharp blade doesn't work......there's nothing wrong with going up one size and trying again. Some species are just harder than others and some grain patterns are tighter. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck with your blade selections and your scrolling.
You are very welcome Stephen. I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I will do my best to help out. Thanks for tuning in.
Several reasons. First off, English is not everyone's first language and being clear and concise helps everyone learn from the video. Secondly, people who may have the need of closed captioning, get a much better representation of what is actually said, when the speaker speaks clearly. Also, translation programs for viewing in other countries perform much better when the original language is spoken clearly, cleanly and concisely. As for me.......it's just the way I talk. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I have a hand scroll saw and I want to get some spiral blades. My question is, What spiral blades are the ones for wood? I only find spiral blades for jewelry.
No, not unless the machine specifically states that it can take either style blade. If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1 are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for giving me this info, I think I will just purchase a new machine, do you have any experience with the “glow forge”? They look like they work very well but they are expensive! Have a great evening 😋
Purple Heart is an extremely hard species Raho and while the species does help in determining what blade to use, one of the main factors will be the thickness of the Purple Heart. For (up to) 3/4" thickness I would suggest a #7 PGT reverse tooth blade. This will still be a tough cut in 3/4" thickness of Purple Heart and you will have to take it slow but it will cut it. For 1/2" thick or less, it will have no issues. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Glad that you liked it. Blade selection is one of the keys to getting good results on a scroll saw. After a while, it becomes second nature to choose the right blade and at first, there is a lot of experimenting to see what blade cuts best but once you get it, it's very satisfying to be able to pick the right blade immediately when cutting your stock. Thanks for tuning in.
Another great video for scrolling. I am buying a second scroll saw before I even get started because its going for cheap. I will check out your other videos for tips. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome. Good luck with your scrolling and if you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show and subscribing. I appreciate the support.
What category of work are your main ones for using the scroll saw rather than a band saw. I saw where a fellow was using a 1/8 inch blade on a bandsaw and doing some intricate cuts. I ask this because I dont have a scroll saw and my 1954 bandsaw needs to be replaced...I wont be buying both, but if I were to buy a scroll saw, excalibur, king and pegas are the ones I am looking at. Thanks for your videos.
I use the scroll saw for everything Drake. There are so many projects that the scroll saw has a part in. When I think of all the processes that I use a scroll saw for, there is only one that couldn't be done on a bandsaw and that would be fretwork. Fretwork is the main use for my scroll saw and I just find that its versatility over a bandsaw is huge. For the most part, the cuts on a bandsaw can be quite rough whereas with a scroll saw, the cuts can be smooth enough that sanding isn't even required on the cut edges. Even with a 1/8" blade, the radius of cuts (while they can be quite tight) still cannot compare with the right radii that are possible with a scroll saw. With a scroll saw, you can rotate a piece of stock 180 degrees and follow back through the cut you just made. With a bandsaw, that just isn't possible. A lot of bandsaws will not accept a 1/8" blade and a 3/16" is the smallest that they will accept so that might be something that you want to consider as well. Not knowing what you main purpose is for these saws, it's pretty hard to make a suggestion. I will say that in my opinion, a bandsaw can never replace a scroll saw and a scroll saw can never replace a band saw. They both have processes that they excel at and although most processes are possible on both saws, the results and ease of cutting will shine on one saw over the other. You can re-saw on a scroll saw but only to a two inch thickness. You can re-saw on a bandsaw to a much thicker depth, but you can't get the fine cutting that you can on a scroll saw. Cutting smaller pieces on a bandsaw with a smaller blade is possible but it is also more dangerous than using a scroll saw. That constantly rotating blade of the bandsaw takes a nasty bite if you get too close whereas a scroll saw just gives you a "kiss". LOL. I hope this has helped a little. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings while I am impressed with the end product of fretwork and the amount of time consumed doing that fretwork, I find fretwork a bit lacey.
@@lmallard3788 I can understand that completely. You have to realize though that fretwork is the process of cutting multiple holes to form a design, pattern or picture. The cat cutting that you were inquiring about (leopard) is also considered fretwork and I don't find it Lacey at all. With that being said, I've seen some fretwork that looks like it belongs on Grandma's end table with an accent lamp and some coasters. Now THAT's Lacey. LOL.
I am not sure what you are asking but it looks like you wish to know where I purchase blades in large 144 piece quantities. Here's a link. www.stockade.ca/Mach-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Blades--5R-13tpi--144pc_p_6190.html I hope this helps you out. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
For aluminum, you might want to try a blade with 8-10 teeth per inch and slow the speed of your saw down. You want to try and minimize heat and friction. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I live in Ontario Steve and my show is pre-recorded. This particular episode was actually filmed back at the beginning of March so it was still quite cold at that time. Who the heck would ever want to live in Edmonton? LOL.
I don't see where this is a bad point Francois. Where you are from has nothing to do with scrolling. Scroll saw work is universal and if you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than willing to help out if I can. I would suggest that you watch my tutorials, Scrolling for beginners parts 1 and 2. You might learn some helpful hints to get you started. th-cam.com/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/w-d-xo.html Thanks for tuning in.
I've always wanted a scroll saw and recently acquired a lightly used DeWalt DW788. Your video has helped clarify the "confusing" range of blades available. Many thanks for the insights provided.
Glad that you found this video to be useful David. If you have any issues or any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Wow Kenny, very useful information about scroll saw blades. And for me, being a Latino very easy to comprehend because you speak in a paced manner... Very nice to see your tutorials, easy to see you have lots of experience scroll sawing, GOD bless you.
Another cracking video which made tons of sense about the bewildering subject of which blades LOL I've bought some pinless 28 TPI for 1/4 " hardboard hope I've made the right choice Kenny ? Thanks again .
The blade that you purchased (28 TPI) is a universal #2 blade and should be just perfect for 1/4" MDF or hardboard. You've made the right choice. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. It's very much appreciated.
Is it's possible to cut polystyrene without melt? .3mm-2.mm thickness. I use Japanese micro saws(mini jap. wood saws) currently, 4mm angle .15mm thick.... I was trying to look for something as close as possible to this. I know it will have to be thicker than .15mm but I can't find anything specific for plastic that will cut clean besides acrylic which is much harder and not having 2 deal with melt. Am I looking at the wrong tool should I just stick to my hand tools for intricate cuts? I work with plastic scale models FYI. Thanks I appreciate anyone's knowledge. P.s. I'm currently looking at proxxon variable scroll saw.
It is possible to cut without melt but there is a fine line of adjustment and you will need to experiment to see what adjustment works best. To avoid melt, it is a combination of blade selection and saw speed. A slow speed, combined with a fine to medium tooth blade will help you to avoid melting the polystyrene. A scroll saw would definitely be a great choice for this type of work and in fact, it is what the saw excels at. Just remember that there is a learning curve when using a scroll saw and it isn't an instant skill. I hope this helps you out. Thanks for tuning in
So I started with scrolling about a year ago and watched this video back then. However it was a while before I did any fine work and needed specific blades and had forgotten everything you had covered. Now I am doing a lot more scrolling and have started using some very hard wood 3/4" think and was struggling with wood burning and could not figure out why. I even tried layers of packing tape on the front and back of the pieces to try and give the blade more lubrication. So now, watching this video again I have realised I am using completely the wrong blade. I am using a number 2 instead of a number 7 or 9. So thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such an easy to follow tutorial. I am confident of selecting blades now that will work much better for me. By the way, in my part of the world Olson blades are 5-10 times more expensive than the blades I am buying. I started with Olson blades so I know their quality, but the ones I am using now have very similar quality so I do not understand the price differential.
I can't speak for the price difference of the blades Doug but if you are happy with the cheaper blades you are getting, then that is all that matters. One of the most important aspects of scrolling and having it be an enjoyable process, is blade selection. Select the proper blade and you will have a wonderful, enjoyable experience. Choose the wrong blade, and you will have a frustrating and worthless experience. I'm glad to hear that this video is helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your continued scrolling.
Brilliant descriptions, very understandable and have helped me a great deal. Coupe of questions for you if you don't mind.......If you were doing very intricate work in say thickish stock of 0.75" to an 1" what blade would you go to? Also, I understand beefier blades will all cut thinner stuff but would I struggle to turn/scroll on tight turns with a bigger blade? I bought an old secondhand Hegner this week and need all the help I can get not ever done any scrolling before.
A large part of this answer relies on the species of the wood as the choice for maple may not necessarily be the same for poplar. Either way, If I were to cut somewhat intricate work in 3/4" thick material, I would most likely go with an Olson #7 PGT blade. I should do the trick. Using larger blades can make tight turns a little more difficult. You wont be turning quickly that's for sure but as long as you take your time and cut slowly, you should have no issues making tight turns or corners. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Glad that you found it to be informative John. Good luck with your scrolling and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you so much for this, picking up my DeWalt tomorrow and was trying to decide which blades to grab for starters. I am in BC Canada and Olson is common. I know this video is a couple years old now, but I have their selection chart and do not see a #3 reverse, only in the Mach and a couple other specialty blades or did I missing something?
I'm not sure if OLSON sells a normal #3 blade as I only use their Mach blades in that number. But I will tell you that they Mach blades are incredible. They are a little more expensive but they give an incredibly clean and almost polished cut to the stock. For normal blades such as reverse tooth, a number 5 blade would work just as well in place of a number 3 as the kerf is similar and the blade size is also similar. I hope this helps. If you have any questions along the way Dawn, you can feel free to contact me via the channel's Facebook page or through email and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Of course, you can always reach me by commenting on one of my shows. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Kenny, I was watching a few other scroll saw vids when I came across this one. I really like the way you explain things I always learn something new from you , I had no idea of the importance of the different blades and cuts they make. I think you are an excellent teacher of the craft and your dedication is un matched in my opinion. Thanks for putting in your time and your desire to help and teach people.
You can have the most expensive scroll saw in the world, but if you choose the wrong blade, it won't cut anything worthwhile. After all, it's the blade that does the cutting, not the saw. Blade selection is imperative to successful scrolling. Thanks for tuning in William and for the kind words.
Hi Ken, a lot of nice information put forth in this video. Thanks for going to the trouble. What would you use for Pine 2x4s? I make a lot of little kids toys out of them. Hope all is well at home. Are you finished with rehab? God Bless my friend.
Great to hear from you Frank. While most scroll saws boast the ability to cut material that is 2" thick, I don't recommend it as the blades have a tendency to flex far beyond their threshold and the cuts are rarely useable. A band saw would be better suited for cuts this thick. However, If I were to be cutting 2" thick pine, I would probably go with either a #7 PGT skip tooth blade or a #12 PGT reverse tooth. As for the rehab.......I'm done sir.
This video popped after I was watching a video by Tamar. I was asking you the other day about a spiral blade, and also wondered about all other blades. A week later, this video came up. Perfect timing. Thank you.
Hey once more Ken. Couldn't find a way to post another question, so hope you see this here. Printing patterns. I have a standard home use inkjet printer. It's pretty good for most things, but as I'm printing scroll saw patterns, it sometimes - even on a straight line - has a little jig to the left or right. This throws me off - just a rooky thing or is this something that bothers the pros as well? Would an investment in a laser (color laser) be worth it? Thanks.
There are plenty of ways to contact me to ask me questions Rey. You can comment on a video (like you've done here), you can send me a PM at the channel's Facebook page, or your can drop me an email. All of the information on getting to my Facebook page or email is contained in the home page of my TH-cam channel under the "about" tab. Now, to your question. I currently use a laser printer but I also used an inkjet for many years with no issues. If the issue with your printer is that is "sometimes" has a little jig in the line and that is what messes you up, you can compensate for that. Check your patter thoroughly before cutting and correct any areas that have that jig in them. A little bit of ink from a pen or some lead from a pencil is a lot cheaper than a laser printer. That money would be better spent on new tools or scroll saw accessories. LOL. You may also want to try and learn to look ahead of the cut. What I mean by that is while you are cutting a straight line, every once in a while, just glance at what is coming up so that you know what you are dealing with. It might be a right or left curve or a jig in the straight line. Beginners have a tendency to be too rigid at the saw and try to follow the lines EXACTLY. There will always be deviations from the lines of a pattern and for the most part, in the grand scheme of the project, no one but you will ever notice them. Try to relax, enjoy the process and follow the lines as best you can for now. If you veer off of the pattern for just a little bit, don't sweat it, it happens to everyone no matter what their level of experience. I hope that this helps you a little bit. If not, please feel free to contact me with more questions. I'm sure that we can work it out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I hope you enjoy scrolling Marty. It is (by far) the most relaxing form of woodworking. It takes practice and there are not many people who are good at it right out of the gate but if you have some patience and take the time to practice, you will have a life long hobby that you will enjoy. Thanks for tuning in and for subscribing. I appreciate your kind words and I look forward to your future comments on the show. Good luck with your new scroll saw. Please, feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way.
You will need a jeweller's blade to cut metal and you will also need to slow your scroll saw down to its lowest speed. The size of the blade will depend on the thickness of the metal you are trying to cut. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
The piece you showed with the cat was beautiful. Growing up our youngest son's best buddy was his cat. The cat lived to be 19 and it broke our hearts when she died. I've got pictures of them together and if I think my skill is up to the challenge I will attempt to see if I can do as well as the master.
I hope you are successful with your project. I'd love to see it when you are done. Good luck and thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
You're very welcome Russell. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
So my Pégas scroll saw finally showed up and I’m experimenting with the different blade types and so far find spiral to be the easiest. Do experienced scroll sawers think that’s amateurish or cheating?
Scrolling is scrolling no matter what blade you use. It takes just as much control to be able to maneuver a board up and down and side to side as it does to spin it to follow the lines. There is a matter of having more control with a spiral blade because it is not as aggressive as a normal blade. That is most likely why you are finding it easier. The only issue with a serial blade is that it is difficult to get crisp clean straight lines with them and for that reason, most scrollers don't use them as much. Cheating? Not at all. Enjoy what you do. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Kenny I do find you Videos very informative. Being a beginner and haven’t done one project as of yet I’m trying to find what blade to use. I’m curious as to why you pro’s don’t list what typed blade used on a project that you do. Thanks again.
On some programs Robert, I will start off a scrolling clip by stating that I am using a (insert blade size here) but for the most part, blade suggestions are strictly suggestive. The size of the blade is determined by so many factors. The thickness of the stock, the species, what part of the species (sap wood, heart wood, crotch, burl) the tightness of the curves etc. There are also factors like how your saw cuts. Does it slow down when working on harder cuts. There is also the factor of cutting style. How much pressure does the operator put on the stock as they are feeding it into the blade? It's impossible to know all of these factors so it's difficult to give a blade size because we don't know what you are working with. As an example, if I am making a project out of 5/8" poplar that has tight curves and smaller cuts, I might opt for a #5 blade. If you were to make the same project but decide that you want to make yours out of maple, the blade size would most likely be a #7 now due to the difference in hardness of the species. Although both are considered a hardwood, one is much harder that the other. I would suggest as a beginner, to start off like this. For woods that are 1/8"-3/8" in thickness, use a #2 or #3 blade. For woods that are 1/2"-5/8" use a #5 or a #7 blade. For woods that are 3/4"-1 1/4" use a #7 up to a #12 blade. If the blade that you are using isn't cutting the species due to one of the factors that I mentioned earlier, go up one size. Eventually, you will find that you hardly have to think about what blade to use because you will know what works for you, your saw and your cutting style. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi kenny, i have a dre*el scroll saw with pin blades. I really want to try to use spiral blade. But i can not find the pinned spiral blade. Please help me Where i can find the pinned spiral blades. Thank you...
Sprial blades are not available (to the best of my knowledge) in a pinned blade form. Your best option here would be to purchase a conversion kit in order to allow your Dremel scroll saw to accept pinless blades. You can find these conversion kits on amazon for a fairly reasonable price. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks again, followed your link from the other video and this was most helpful. I now have a selection of blades and will test out what suits me best. Also thanks for your previous response - you're the first one to ever answer on here, so thanks for that as well. I was completely impressed with the artwork on about minute 34. That's incredible.
You're very welcome Rey. I'm glad that you found it all useful. I do my best to answer every single comment that I get on the channel. While I admit that there are a few that I somehow miss, for the most part, I am able to keep up with them. Thanks for the kind words on the cuttings and for tuning in to the show. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate.
That spiral blade should be used as a tool to promote safe sex... can you imaging having your bore punched and swabbed with that... Great video I had no clue as to what all the blades were and what to use thank you for giving me a great start
You're very welcome. If you have any questions at all please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's very much appreciated.
I can't believe i spent nearly 40mins listening about Scroll Saw blades? and i don't even own a Scroll Saw ha ha ha
However a very informative view and great explanation on blades, which only you Kenny are the best at doing.
I think i need a coffee now after that ha ha ha.
Barry (ENG)
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. Now that's dedication to the show Barry. Glad that you were able to tune in and I hope that you got your coffee.
I just did the same. I’m about to purchase the dewalt scroll scroll at grizzly.com. They running a sale.
Brilliant! I often find myself listening to some in-depth video on a subject I have no interest in or know anything about. Ha ha :)
You should. Doing fretwork is so therapeutic.
This information was exactly what I was looking for!
Glad to hear that you found the information useful Kara. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Once again thanks Kenny. This is the most informative video on scroll saw blades I have watched. Right level of detail, practical explanations and clear recommendations. No one could ask for more. All I have to do now is type up my notes, print them off, laminate them and have them ready near to the saw. Brilliant!
Glad to hear that you found it useful Mike. There is always confusion when trying to choose the right blade for the job and hopefully, this show (although long) will clear up some of that confusion. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave the kind words.
This was a very clear explanation, especially for me as a beginner within scroll sawing. Thx!
I'm glad that you found it useful. Please feel free to ask any questions you may have along the way and I will do my best to help where I can. Thanks for tuning in.
This video along with your 2 scroll saw videos are pure gold for those of us starting out with scroll work. The gold standard for scroll saw tutorials. Thanks 😎
Thanks for the kind words. If you ever have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What a fantastic video! SO informative! the demo of spiral blade gave me a greater appreciation for the tool. I can't wait to get some new blades, dust it off and actually start using it!
Thanks so much
You're very welcome and I'm glad that you found the show useful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. You can either ask here or over on my show's facebook page. Whichever you prefer. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.
I am so glad that I came across your video tutorial. Learnt heaps, thanks.
You're very welcome Patrick. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can.
Must watch video!. The most helpful, lots of needed information given in small chunks. Fantastic, thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome Barnie and I'm glad to hear that you found the show useful. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
Very informative. Glad I come across this one. I’m just getting started in Scrollsaw at 77yrs old. HEIP,
You will do just fine Robert. I have faith in you. If, at any point in time, you have any questions, please don't hesitate to reach out and ask. I would be more than happy to help out if I can. Good for you for learning this new area of woodworking. Thanks for tuning in to the program. If you haven't already, I do have a couple of beginner lessons on the channel. You can find them here. th-cam.com/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/w-d-xo.html
and
th-cam.com/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/w-d-xo.html
You are one great teacher. Thank you so much for sharing your wisdom.
Thanks for the compliment. I'm glad that you have found the show useful and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for this video, i just purchased my first scroll saw, this was very helpful!
You're very welcome Ann Marie. I'm glad that you found the show helpful. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
No. It never came through. You will have to email it.
I am 75 and new at this and you have helped me more than you know Thank you very much.
That's the whole purpose of this TH-cam channel....to help people. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Ken, interesting show. I find that the majority of the time I use either a 2 or 3 reverse tooth and once in awhile a 7. You can probably guess that most of my work is in thinner stock. I have yet to try spiral blades but you make me want to give them a try. I am curious about the fretwork you showed, where did you get the pattern and what kind of wood did you use? It looked great. Thanks for the informative show. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop
That patterns are of various sources Paul. Some, I make myself and others are from magazines etc. The wood that my scrolling is cut from is 1/4" thick solid oak and it really is a challenge to cut the intricate pieces in a coarse stock like oak without breaking pieces. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in my friend. It's great to hear from you.
TY for a fine production. At age 70, I am getting into scrolling so that I can SIT DOWN and still accomplish something. My chainsaw days are almost over.
It's never too late to learn Glen. Good for you for taking the initiative to try something new. Be sure to check out my videos "Scrolling For Beginners" Parts 1 and 2. They might help you along with some of the frustrations associated with learning something new. Thanks so much for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated. Please feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
This is my first time to use a scroll saw
The secret to good results with a scroll saw is simply practice, practice and more practice. Proper blade selection is important but you can't beat hours of experience when it comes to good results. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for a very informative video! I am new to scroll saws, and am delighted that I can get so much useful information from youtube. As the worlds (maybe) oldest apprentice, with help such as you offer, I may be a craftsman before age takes me off the planet.
I hope that you have many more years of your apprenticeship left in you Pat. Good luck on your scrolling adventure and if you ever have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Seyco Scrollsaw .com has a great line (Seyco )of blades selection and supplies ... Mach and PGT . comprable pricing and fast shipping
Thanks for the information Charles. I have heard great things about Seyco and the staff out there. I'm sure that my American viewers will find this information useful.
Holy smoke, Kenny.....that scroll saw project you showed is an awesome piece, and I applaud both your skill and your patience!! Oddly, a scroll saw (my grandfather's old belt-driven beast!) was probably the first power tool I ever used, at about age nine or ten (back in the fifties!), but the one I know the least about, in terms of details like blade selection! That Excalibur saw is a beautiful tool, too. To start, I just got myself an inexpensive Ryobi, but it seems to serve my purposes OK...at least for now. it's variable speed and accepts plain end blades, so I'm free to select blades pretty freely, unlike a lot of other inexpensive saws (that I found only use pinned blades). I took your advice, though, and added a foot switch which has made things much more convenient. Thanks for clearing away much of the blade selection 'fog.' I'm in the midst of a project using 1/8" stock. The Olson spiral blades do make it easier (cutting out names written in cursive) but you are absolutely correct: I spend a lot of time with sanding sticks in my hand! LOL When I have more time, I'll get braver and try something similar using 'conventional' blades. Thanks again...and I look forward to your next video. :-)
Hang in there Norm. The scroll saw isn't something that comes naturally and it take a lot of practice to get it right. While spiral blades do have their place, for lettering in 1/8" stock, you would probably get better results from a #2 reverse tooth blade. While you edged may not be perfect, the amount of sanding that you need to do will be minimized. The perfect (or close to perfect) edges will come with practice. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. I appreciate it very much. If you haven't already, you might want to check out the two part series on scrolling for beginners here on the channel. It might give you some pointers on control and learning the craft. th-cam.com/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/w-d-xo.html
If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can.
Just got a scroll saw a couple of weeks ago. I learned so much about the maddening variety of blades. Luckily when I bought my blades I bought Olsen in PGT, reverse tooth and some skip tooth. Not knowing anything them, now I do. Thanks
Sounds like you're all set for the scrolling experience. Be sure to ask any questions that you might have while you are learning about the saw. I'd be more than happy to help out if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
You didn't cover all the blades out there! Does that mean the will be a part 2? 😂 sorry, couldn't help myself...
This very really informative and beneficial to me.
No, I think I've covered enough blades for now. LOL. Besides, I don't think that I could talk any more about it......okay, maybe I could. I do have the gift of gab after all. Thanks for tuning in again this week.
This is possibly the best teaching video I've ever watched. So much detailed info given. So helpful. Thank you.
You're very welcome Rhonda. I'm glad that you enjoyed the video. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave the kind words. It is very much appreciated.
The burring could probably be greatly reduced by putting masking tape on the back , right?
I've never heard of anyone using this method but I can see where it might work. The masking tape might act as a sacrificial "board" that would support the back of the piece during cutting. You might be on to something. I will have to give this a try. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your question.
Another great tutorial. I'm thinking about getting my first scroll saw and your discussion about the blades will send me in the right direction. All the best to you Kenny.
Thanks for the kind words Robert. I'm glad that the show was useful to you. Knowing which blade to use when working on a project can be a very confusing things and I hope that this video will alleviate some of the confusion. Thanks for tuning in.
Great teaching! I need to see recommendations for blade and stock combos for varied projects. Plywood vs. Hardwoods vs. Acrylics vs. Metals, etc.
The variables of the materials you just mentions are endless. Plywood is largely varied in blades sizes according to thickness, the number of plys, the species of the plywood and how intricate and tight your design for cutting it. Hardwoods are also governed by the same variable but the species plays a huge part because the size blade you would use on walnut, would never cut through Purple Heart. Acrylics can be tricky and again, thickness plays a part in your blade selection but also, the speed of your saw also plays a huge part because heat is a contributing factor in getting a clean cut. Too much speed with a larger blade will create large pockets that melt back together, leaving a poor cut quality and a mess to clean up while using a smaller blade with too much speed will result in melting the acrylic immediately after cutting it, causing the blade to jam and possibly break. Metals are another completely different story. Thickness plays a huge part but for the most part, the blades that are used are a high TPI and they are run at extremely low speed to avoid friction and heat, and allow the gullets of the blade to clear the metal filing from the cut kerf. Basically what I'm saying is that there is a lot of experimenting that goes on with scroll but using the basic knowledge of this video will give you a starting point as to what blade to choose and what to expect from it. During the cut, if you know the signs to look out for, such as burning the wood, having to apply too much pressure to cut etc, you can adjust your blade choice accordingly and eventually it becomes second nature. It's pretty rare for me, after almost 30 years of scrolling, that I choose the wrong blade for the job. It's all about experience and knowing what to look out for and how to adjust accordingly. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I never knew there was so much variety, but you made it easier to understand. So, a 2R should be fine for medium hardness 1/" balsa wood. Do you have a suggestion for 1/2" balsa wing ribs (gentle curves)?
A 2R will be perfect for 1/4" balsa and for 1/2" balsa, I would consider a #3 PGT blade to be more than adequate. I hope this helps John. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Goodness professor you think we can handle all this. my brain was smoked 8 mins. in. I know im saving this so the next time I go to lowes to buy blades im going to blow there minds. they only have 2 types,i mean 2 different tpi in a regular straight blade. so now I'll pull this up and show them Professor Earrings knows that they can order more blades. ha ha thanks man
ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. Professor Earrings. That's hilarious. I hope you intend to make me a t-shirt with this title on it. Thanks for tuning in this week and giving me the new title and a good laugh as well.
I'm with this guy ^ Lowe's had a very poor selection. I guess I just need to order blades online?
Thank you! Very informative and I really enjoyed it. I'm starting a new hobby! I'm still afraid of losing a finger!!! 😅
There has never been anyone in the history of scroll sawing that has ever lost a finger using a scroll saw Nancy so you have nothing to worry about. A little knick may happen from time to time but nothing serious. Good luck on your new hobby and please don't hesitate to ask any questions you might have. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in.
Very informative video, i'm just starting out on a scroll saw. Olson blades are sold in my area. I have noticed that the two blades that you personally use are the #2, #3 reverse blades.
I mostly use those numbers with the #3 being a mach cut blade. The other blade that gets used a LOT is the #7 PGT from OLSON for thicker stock. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show Jeff.
I just bought a used scroll saw it only came with one blade.. I. Going into town tomorrow to grab a few blades.. this video was very Informative..thank you
You're very welcome. Good luck with your scrolling and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in
Help please I have inherited a Power craft pfz 400 r n scroll saw ... no manual , so I havent a clue what type of blade i need , pinned or flat ! I will be subscribing so i can learn how to use this machine , thank you ( such a lovely workshop !)
I believe (but am not positive) that this saw takes the pinned end blades. I also believe that it came with an adapter for taking flat ended blades. Do you know if you have the adapter or not? I you would like to contact me via Facebook or email, you will be able to send pictures and I can help a little further but as it stands right now, the best I say is that your scroll saw will take the pinned end blades. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi, question, can a flat blade be used in an old scroll saw that has a pin holder ? All of the blades that I have used have the pin but apparently they don’t come in a smaller size blade? Thanks, I’m confused about what I can use.😜
If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1
are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
I liked your video.. But can you tell me why you got fan on full speed and you got three thick layers on.. Is it cold or hot or bit of both.. Lol. Anyway I like your videos. Thanks again
These shows are pre-recorded so this show would have been filmed in the winter. The fan is on top of the wood stove and circulates the heat and the 3 layers?.....well that keeps me from freezing until the shop warms up. The joys of a Canadian winter. LOL. Thanks for tuning in. Glad that you liked the show.
Just bought my first scroll saw.This was very helpful .Thanks
Congratulations on the new tool John. I hope it serves you well. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out if I can.
I just picked up a used Craftsman scroll saw. It is a few years old but it is in mint shape, not a scratch. It also appears to work fine. I do not have the manual that comes with it. Is it safe to assume the blade length is 5 inches ? That seems to be the standard size for most scroll saws. The saw I bought did not come with a blade and it was sitting in a storage unit for a few years. Any maintenance (oiling and such) I should do to it before firing it up ? For $25 I found it hard to pass up, it powers up and the speed control is bang on
Older scroll saws had a different length blade but it would have to be very old for that. I would say that if the scroll saw taking un-pinned blades, then the chances are pretty good that they are a 5" length. It sounds like you've got yourself a great deal. Some scroll saws (like the Ryobi) have bearings that need to be oiled every so often. I would suggest googling the model number and seeing if you can find a manual. In most cases though, scroll saws are plug and play with no real lubrication needed. If you are concerned, you can always put a drop of 3-in-1 oil on anything that moves. It wont hurt the machine. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice saw blade info :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Glad that you like it. Thank you for tuning in to the show again this week.
excellent part 1 &2 very good teacher, I 'LL GIVE HIM 20/10. THANK YOU SO MUCH
You are very welcome Carlo. I'm glad that you enjoyed the shows. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Amazing
Glad that you liked it. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
thanks, great info, John from Ga
You're very welcome John. Thanks for tuning in and if you have any questions. please don't hesitate to ask.
I just bought a ryobi and want to learn to use it to cut elements for my artwork. can you post link to your scroll saw lesson videos?
There are plenty of scroll saw related videos on the channel. If you go to the main page of my channel and look at the playlists, you will find one that is for scroll saw work. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show and good luck with your scrolling.
Are the Scroll saw blade numbers 5, 7, 9 and TPI the same for softwood and hardwood.
The universal blade numbers and the TPI are the same on the blades regardless of what you are cutting. There are not different blades for hard woods or soft woods. What is important is that you choose the correct blade for the species that you are cutting. It is a combination of thickness and harness that will determine what blade you use. For 1/2" thick pine (for example) you can probably get away with a #3 blade but would have to step it up to a #5 for 1/2" thick maple. I hope this helps a little Douglas. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You never talk about materials, what type of blade for Metal 1/16 or HArdwood or softwood
The sizes of the blades are universal and they are rated for their thickness. They also have a rating as to what materials they are suited for cutting. You would have to check the individual manufacturer's blades specification to see what they recommend and that is why I don't really mention much in the way of materials in this video. While the blade numbers are basically the same for cutting various thicknesses, the materials will differ depending on brand. I hope this helps a little Humberto. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very well done, Thanks…….aluminum…..plex…keep it going!
Glad that you liked the show Don. Thanks for tuning in.
I’m from Ontario, where did u buy the plastic tubes for the scroll saw blades?
I got them at Lee Valley Brian. Here's a link. www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/storage-and-organization/containers/32173-shop-storage-tubes
I hope it helps. Thanks for tuning in.
I just bought a skil scroll saw used for $20 but I think it only takes pinned blades. Wish I had saw this beforehand
You might want to check your model and see if there is a conversion kit available for it Brad. There are quite a few models that are capable of receiving a kit that will allow a "pinned blades only" setup, to use "pinless" blades. Something like this www.ebay.com/itm/Scroll-Saw-Blade-Holder-Conversion-Adapter-Set-to-take-Pin-Plain-End-Blades-/121350904110
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Don't buy Dremel brand scroll saw. I can't cut 1/4" pine! Lol
This sounds like more of a blade issue than a saw issue. I know that the Dremel scroll saw isn't the most smooth operating machine but it will still cut with the proper blade. For 1/4" thick pine, you might want to try a universal #3 reverse tooth blade. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@acutabove_woodworkings thanks for clarification. Your work is amazing! You must be a very patient person...
If I am working with wood from 2 mm thin to 1.5 cm thick...some soft and some hard...what 3 blades should I start out with. I know I want a reverse blade for minimal sanding.
I will be potentially be making replacement pieces for inlay, name plates (cutting the names out of the middle), cutting out whole words thick enough to stand up on their own and probably jewellery pieces...oh and jewellery boxes...
What is the make and model of the small accordian hose you have attached to your saw please?
The main blades that I would suggest are a #2 for thinner work, a #3 PGT for cuts up to 1/2" thick and a #7 PGT for cuts 1/2" and over. I hope this helps. The according air hose doesn't have a brand name. It is a part of the saw. Most scroll saws will come with a blower tube of some kind. Mine is just an accordion style. I hope this helps. Glad that you found the blade video. Thanks for tuning in.
@@acutabove_woodworkings wrote it down...thanks!
Are you posting a weekly show.. I'm new to using utube and following post..
I post two shows a week Darin. Tuesday is my show where I talk about whatever I feel like at the time. It can bee tool reviews or installations, or welding or whatever I feel like. Friday is the woodworking segment of the show where I usually demonstrate how to make something. I hope that you find plenty of shows on the channel to enjoy. There are over 500 episodes to choose from so there is probably something of interest to you. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What length!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For a saw that say 16
The lengths of the scroll saw blades are all the same Nolaw. They are 5" long regardless of the depth of the saw's throat. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you, that clears up a lot for me. I bought a Dewalt 788 years ago and have been scared to get started. I am disabled and am starting woodworking at 54 years old, and less likely, female, so I am different from most. I subscribed because it seems you really know a ton, and I want to learn. Thank you again, and please, keep making these. You are easy to understand.
I'm glad that you found this show to be useful for you Sandi. Scrolling is the most relaxing form of woodworking there is and once you get started, you wont be able to stop. I have two shows on the channel called "Scrolling for Beginners" and you might want to check them out. There is a ton of information in them that you might find useful. As for starting at age 54 and being female....I think it's awesome. You age has nothing to do with your ability to produce beautiful project and whether you are male of female has nothing to do with it. Some of the most incredible and artistic woodworkers are female and what really matters in the end, is how much you enjoy the hobby and the self satisfaction that it brings you. I just know that you will do fine. Good luck with your adventure and please feel free to ask any questions that you might have along the way. You can contact me via the channel's Facebook page or via email or through commenting on the show. Thanks so much for tuning in. (p.s. check out the scrolling projects playlist on the channel if you are looking for a little inspiration)
@@acutabove_woodworkings I watched the two part video on beginning scroll sawing first, and that gave me the courage to put the only blade I had, a 15, and a piece of pressboard paneling we had laying around, and finally use the saw. It was not ideal, but I was able to make straight lines and curves, over and over, until I ran out of scrap wood. I was very proud of getting past that hurdle of turning it on. I have been sewing since I was 10 and it reminds me a lot of how a sewing machine works, let the machine do the work, if you push or pull, it messes up the material. I still need a lot of practice and find a way to get more scrap wood. I bought new blades. I am already seeing a lot of ideas in my head. This has me very excited about my new hobby. I’ll be watching 😁
@@sandisslantoneverything My wife is often quite jealous of how I can sew a perfectly straight hem on her sewing machine and I contribute it to the years of scrolling. The main difference between the sewing machine and the scroll saw is that there is no blade drift on the sewing machine. It can really be challenging to control at times. Keep up the great work Sandi. I have all the faith in the world that you will master this in no time. You seem like you have your goals set. If you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I look forward to the day that pictures of your amazing projects show up in my email inbox so that they can be featured on my regular "viewer mail" segment of the show.
I thought you say you bought a dewalt unit 700+ years ago. You must be old 😂😂😂. kidding
Learned so much with your video. Thanks!
You are very welcome Eduardo. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in.
I have a scroll saw that I sometimes use for cutting acrylic tubing. The tubing has a 14mm OD and a 1.8mm wall thickness. What would be the perfect blade to use that would provide the smoothest burr-free finish? Thanks.
A burr free finish on acrylic tubing is a hard thing to accomplish. The problem is that there is more than one plane being cut during the operation which creates more than one area for burrs to occur. I would suggest something in the neighbourhood of a #5 PGT blade and reducing the speed of your saw to prevent overheating and melting the acrylic. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show
@@acutabove_woodworkings Hi.....thank you so much! 🙂
Absolutely excellent video. "Thank You"
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you thank you thank you That is all I can say for your Videos Where is your other channel other people talk about
I don't have another "channel" Tom. This is the only channel that I have. There are two versions of the show on this channel though. There is the Friday episode of the show which is dedicated to woodworking and woodworking projects and then there is the Tuesday episode of the show (Alternative Tuesdays) where it can be anything from tool reviews, to welding, to rants, to shop tours and tool demonstrations. I do have a Facebook page for the show where projects that don't make it to filming are posted. If you'd like to check out any of that, the links are all in the "about" section of the channel's main page. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very informative, thank you so much. Regards Jean
You're very welcome Jean. I'm glad that you found the show to be useful. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This was the best blade class ever! I feel so confident in choosing now... Thank you for your help!
You're very welcome Rose. This show is a basic guideline and is by no means written in stone. If you ever find that you are having issues with a certain sized blade cutting a certain thickness of material and a new, sharp blade doesn't work......there's nothing wrong with going up one size and trying again. Some species are just harder than others and some grain patterns are tighter. Thanks for tuning in to the show. Good luck with your blade selections and your scrolling.
Brilliant. Just the information I was looking for and well explained. many thanks
You are very welcome Stephen. I'm glad to hear that it was helpful to you. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask and I will do my best to help out. Thanks for tuning in.
I Get My Scollsaw Blades Off Amazon
I hope you like them. Thanks for tuning in.
Why, when teaching, do people always feel they need to slow d o w n and e n n u n c i a t e each syllable. Excellent info though.
Several reasons. First off, English is not everyone's first language and being clear and concise helps everyone learn from the video. Secondly, people who may have the need of closed captioning, get a much better representation of what is actually said, when the speaker speaks clearly. Also, translation programs for viewing in other countries perform much better when the original language is spoken clearly, cleanly and concisely. As for me.......it's just the way I talk. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I have a hand scroll saw and I want to get some spiral blades.
My question is, What spiral blades are the ones for wood? I only find spiral blades for jewelry.
thank you for the dwtailit has taken the mystery out of blade solection
I glad that it helped Michael. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Very well explain!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in.
does anyone make a spiral pin 5"? My Craftsman seems to only take pin.
To the best of my knowledge Gary, spiral blades are in straight form only. I have never seen a pinned spiral blade. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks for this video, it was very informative.
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show.
Hi, I’m confused, can a flat end blade be used on a machine with the pin apparatus? Thank you 🙏
No, not unless the machine specifically states that it can take either style blade. If you have an older style scroll saw that accepts pinned blades Verna, unless it specifically states that it will also accept flat end blades, then they are not usable in the older saw. Now there are conversion kits available for some scroll saws that will allow you to adapt a pinned blade scroll saw to accept a flat end blade but I have to be honest and say that I have no personal experience with them. Ones like this. www.amazon.ca/Olson-Saw-AC49610-Scroll-Conversion/dp/B005ELXNX6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=KQAI52IPTBY8&keywords=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter&qid=1643341357&sprefix=scroll+saw+flat+blade+adapter%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-1
are what I am referring to. I hope this helps a little. Thanks for tuning in.
Thank you for giving me this info, I think I will just purchase a new machine, do you have any experience with the “glow forge”? They look like they work very well but they are expensive! Have a great evening 😋
what blade would best suit a hardwood like purple heart?
Purple Heart is an extremely hard species Raho and while the species does help in determining what blade to use, one of the main factors will be the thickness of the Purple Heart. For (up to) 3/4" thickness I would suggest a #7 PGT reverse tooth blade. This will still be a tough cut in 3/4" thickness of Purple Heart and you will have to take it slow but it will cut it. For 1/2" thick or less, it will have no issues. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Another great information video thank you
Glad that you liked it. Blade selection is one of the keys to getting good results on a scroll saw. After a while, it becomes second nature to choose the right blade and at first, there is a lot of experimenting to see what blade cuts best but once you get it, it's very satisfying to be able to pick the right blade immediately when cutting your stock. Thanks for tuning in.
Another great video for scrolling. I am buying a second scroll saw before I even get started because its going for cheap. I will check out your other videos for tips. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome. Good luck with your scrolling and if you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show and subscribing. I appreciate the support.
What category of work are your main ones for using the scroll saw rather than a band saw. I saw where a fellow was using a 1/8 inch blade on a bandsaw and doing some intricate cuts. I ask this because I dont have a scroll saw and my 1954 bandsaw needs to be replaced...I wont be buying both, but if I were to buy a scroll saw, excalibur, king and pegas are the ones I am looking at. Thanks for your videos.
I use the scroll saw for everything Drake. There are so many projects that the scroll saw has a part in. When I think of all the processes that I use a scroll saw for, there is only one that couldn't be done on a bandsaw and that would be fretwork. Fretwork is the main use for my scroll saw and I just find that its versatility over a bandsaw is huge. For the most part, the cuts on a bandsaw can be quite rough whereas with a scroll saw, the cuts can be smooth enough that sanding isn't even required on the cut edges. Even with a 1/8" blade, the radius of cuts (while they can be quite tight) still cannot compare with the right radii that are possible with a scroll saw. With a scroll saw, you can rotate a piece of stock 180 degrees and follow back through the cut you just made. With a bandsaw, that just isn't possible. A lot of bandsaws will not accept a 1/8" blade and a 3/16" is the smallest that they will accept so that might be something that you want to consider as well. Not knowing what you main purpose is for these saws, it's pretty hard to make a suggestion. I will say that in my opinion, a bandsaw can never replace a scroll saw and a scroll saw can never replace a band saw. They both have processes that they excel at and although most processes are possible on both saws, the results and ease of cutting will shine on one saw over the other. You can re-saw on a scroll saw but only to a two inch thickness. You can re-saw on a bandsaw to a much thicker depth, but you can't get the fine cutting that you can on a scroll saw. Cutting smaller pieces on a bandsaw with a smaller blade is possible but it is also more dangerous than using a scroll saw. That constantly rotating blade of the bandsaw takes a nasty bite if you get too close whereas a scroll saw just gives you a "kiss". LOL. I hope this has helped a little. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
@@acutabove_woodworkings while I am impressed with the end product of fretwork and the amount of time consumed doing that fretwork, I find fretwork a bit lacey.
@@lmallard3788 I can understand that completely. You have to realize though that fretwork is the process of cutting multiple holes to form a design, pattern or picture. The cat cutting that you were inquiring about (leopard) is also considered fretwork and I don't find it Lacey at all. With that being said, I've seen some fretwork that looks like it belongs on Grandma's end table with an accent lamp and some coasters. Now THAT's Lacey. LOL.
mui bueno su comentario donde conpralo por 144 unida grasia
I am not sure what you are asking but it looks like you wish to know where I purchase blades in large 144 piece quantities. Here's a link. www.stockade.ca/Mach-Speed-Scroll-Saw-Blades--5R-13tpi--144pc_p_6190.html
I hope this helps you out. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
I need to cut 3/16” and 1/4” thick aluminum
For aluminum, you might want to try a blade with 8-10 teeth per inch and slow the speed of your saw down. You want to try and minimize heat and friction. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Dude where do you live ? It's almost summer! It must be edmonton
I live in Ontario Steve and my show is pre-recorded. This particular episode was actually filmed back at the beginning of March so it was still quite cold at that time. Who the heck would ever want to live in Edmonton? LOL.
Edmonton? Thats where that big mall is with an ice rink in it isnt it? Ive been there back in 2002 I think it was. Some nice country out that way
VERY helpful, thank you.
Glad that you liked it Edmund. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
The bad point is I'm Afrikaans
I don't see where this is a bad point Francois. Where you are from has nothing to do with scrolling. Scroll saw work is universal and if you ever have any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than willing to help out if I can. I would suggest that you watch my tutorials, Scrolling for beginners parts 1 and 2. You might learn some helpful hints to get you started.
th-cam.com/video/8b_FWeCcFeg/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/BmHuTuOyFZo/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for tuning in.
I've always wanted a scroll saw and recently acquired a lightly used DeWalt DW788. Your video has helped clarify the "confusing" range of blades available. Many thanks for the insights provided.
Glad that you found this video to be useful David. If you have any issues or any questions, please don't hesitate to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Wow Kenny, very useful information about scroll saw blades. And for me, being a Latino very easy to comprehend because you speak in a paced manner... Very nice to see your tutorials, easy to see you have lots of experience scroll sawing, GOD bless you.
I'm glad that you found the show to be useful Jorge. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Scroll saw का वेलेट चाइय़ आप सार दिखाते हैं सार मेरा वेलेट जरुरि है सार आप वेलेट भेजावा सांख्य है तै आस्टिन पर मैवाइल नंबर देदिजिय़ सार
I am not quite sure what you are asking Jayanto. Sorry. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Another cracking video which made tons of sense about the bewildering subject of which blades LOL I've bought some pinless 28 TPI for 1/4 " hardboard hope I've made the right choice Kenny ? Thanks again .
The blade that you purchased (28 TPI) is a universal #2 blade and should be just perfect for 1/4" MDF or hardboard. You've made the right choice. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. It's very much appreciated.
Is it's possible to cut polystyrene without melt? .3mm-2.mm thickness. I use Japanese micro saws(mini jap. wood saws) currently, 4mm angle .15mm thick.... I was trying to look for something as close as possible to this. I know it will have to be thicker than .15mm but I can't find anything specific for plastic that will cut clean besides acrylic which is much harder and not having 2 deal with melt.
Am I looking at the wrong tool should I just stick to my hand tools for intricate cuts? I work with plastic scale models FYI.
Thanks I appreciate anyone's knowledge.
P.s.
I'm currently looking at proxxon variable scroll saw.
It is possible to cut without melt but there is a fine line of adjustment and you will need to experiment to see what adjustment works best. To avoid melt, it is a combination of blade selection and saw speed. A slow speed, combined with a fine to medium tooth blade will help you to avoid melting the polystyrene. A scroll saw would definitely be a great choice for this type of work and in fact, it is what the saw excels at. Just remember that there is a learning curve when using a scroll saw and it isn't an instant skill. I hope this helps you out.
Thanks for tuning in
So I started with scrolling about a year ago and watched this video back then. However it was a while before I did any fine work and needed specific blades and had forgotten everything you had covered. Now I am doing a lot more scrolling and have started using some very hard wood 3/4" think and was struggling with wood burning and could not figure out why. I even tried layers of packing tape on the front and back of the pieces to try and give the blade more lubrication. So now, watching this video again I have realised I am using completely the wrong blade. I am using a number 2 instead of a number 7 or 9. So thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in such an easy to follow tutorial. I am confident of selecting blades now that will work much better for me. By the way, in my part of the world Olson blades are 5-10 times more expensive than the blades I am buying. I started with Olson blades so I know their quality, but the ones I am using now have very similar quality so I do not understand the price differential.
I can't speak for the price difference of the blades Doug but if you are happy with the cheaper blades you are getting, then that is all that matters. One of the most important aspects of scrolling and having it be an enjoyable process, is blade selection. Select the proper blade and you will have a wonderful, enjoyable experience. Choose the wrong blade, and you will have a frustrating and worthless experience. I'm glad to hear that this video is helpful to you. Thanks for tuning in and good luck with your continued scrolling.
Brilliant descriptions, very understandable and have helped me a great deal. Coupe of questions for you if you don't mind.......If you were doing very intricate work in say thickish stock of 0.75" to an 1" what blade would you go to? Also, I understand beefier blades will all cut thinner stuff but would I struggle to turn/scroll on tight turns with a bigger blade? I bought an old secondhand Hegner this week and need all the help I can get not ever done any scrolling before.
A large part of this answer relies on the species of the wood as the choice for maple may not necessarily be the same for poplar. Either way, If I were to cut somewhat intricate work in 3/4" thick material, I would most likely go with an Olson #7 PGT blade. I should do the trick. Using larger blades can make tight turns a little more difficult. You wont be turning quickly that's for sure but as long as you take your time and cut slowly, you should have no issues making tight turns or corners. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
This video should be in the packaging of every new scroll saw.Just recently into scrolling.found this brilliantly informative.thanks Kenny
Glad that you found it to be informative John. Good luck with your scrolling and if you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you so much for this, picking up my DeWalt tomorrow and was trying to decide which blades to grab for starters. I am in BC Canada and Olson is common. I know this video is a couple years old now, but I have their selection chart and do not see a #3 reverse, only in the Mach and a couple other specialty blades or did I missing something?
I'm not sure if OLSON sells a normal #3 blade as I only use their Mach blades in that number. But I will tell you that they Mach blades are incredible. They are a little more expensive but they give an incredibly clean and almost polished cut to the stock. For normal blades such as reverse tooth, a number 5 blade would work just as well in place of a number 3 as the kerf is similar and the blade size is also similar. I hope this helps. If you have any questions along the way Dawn, you can feel free to contact me via the channel's Facebook page or through email and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Of course, you can always reach me by commenting on one of my shows. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Kenny, I was watching a few other scroll saw vids when I came across this one. I really like the way you explain things I always learn something new from you , I had no idea of the importance of the different blades and cuts they make. I think you are an excellent teacher of the craft and your dedication is un matched in my opinion. Thanks for putting in your time and your desire to help and teach people.
You can have the most expensive scroll saw in the world, but if you choose the wrong blade, it won't cut anything worthwhile. After all, it's the blade that does the cutting, not the saw. Blade selection is imperative to successful scrolling. Thanks for tuning in William and for the kind words.
Great video. I learned a lot. ThankQ
Glad to hear that you found the show to be useful Richard. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi Ken, a lot of nice information put forth in this video. Thanks for going to the trouble. What would you use for Pine 2x4s? I make a lot of little kids toys out of them. Hope all is well at home. Are you finished with rehab? God Bless my friend.
Great to hear from you Frank. While most scroll saws boast the ability to cut material that is 2" thick, I don't recommend it as the blades have a tendency to flex far beyond their threshold and the cuts are rarely useable. A band saw would be better suited for cuts this thick. However, If I were to be cutting 2" thick pine, I would probably go with either a #7 PGT skip tooth blade or a #12 PGT reverse tooth. As for the rehab.......I'm done sir.
Just ordered my first scroll saw. This is all new to me, so I will come back here to review before buying blades. THANK YOU !!
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you found the video to be useful. Thanks for tuning in.
This video popped after I was watching a video by Tamar. I was asking you the other day about a spiral blade, and also wondered about all other blades. A week later, this video came up. Perfect timing. Thank you.
This is a very old video Scott, but you're very welcome. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.
Hey once more Ken. Couldn't find a way to post another question, so hope you see this here. Printing patterns. I have a standard home use inkjet printer. It's pretty good for most things, but as I'm printing scroll saw patterns, it sometimes - even on a straight line - has a little jig to the left or right. This throws me off - just a rooky thing or is this something that bothers the pros as well? Would an investment in a laser (color laser) be worth it? Thanks.
There are plenty of ways to contact me to ask me questions Rey. You can comment on a video (like you've done here), you can send me a PM at the channel's Facebook page, or your can drop me an email. All of the information on getting to my Facebook page or email is contained in the home page of my TH-cam channel under the "about" tab. Now, to your question. I currently use a laser printer but I also used an inkjet for many years with no issues. If the issue with your printer is that is "sometimes" has a little jig in the line and that is what messes you up, you can compensate for that. Check your patter thoroughly before cutting and correct any areas that have that jig in them. A little bit of ink from a pen or some lead from a pencil is a lot cheaper than a laser printer. That money would be better spent on new tools or scroll saw accessories. LOL. You may also want to try and learn to look ahead of the cut. What I mean by that is while you are cutting a straight line, every once in a while, just glance at what is coming up so that you know what you are dealing with. It might be a right or left curve or a jig in the straight line. Beginners have a tendency to be too rigid at the saw and try to follow the lines EXACTLY. There will always be deviations from the lines of a pattern and for the most part, in the grand scheme of the project, no one but you will ever notice them. Try to relax, enjoy the process and follow the lines as best you can for now. If you veer off of the pattern for just a little bit, don't sweat it, it happens to everyone no matter what their level of experience. I hope that this helps you a little bit. If not, please feel free to contact me with more questions. I'm sure that we can work it out. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
I subscribed after watching this. Thanks for all your time and trouble to make these videos for us. I'm supposed to get my scroll saw today.
I hope you enjoy scrolling Marty. It is (by far) the most relaxing form of woodworking. It takes practice and there are not many people who are good at it right out of the gate but if you have some patience and take the time to practice, you will have a life long hobby that you will enjoy. Thanks for tuning in and for subscribing. I appreciate your kind words and I look forward to your future comments on the show. Good luck with your new scroll saw. Please, feel free to ask any questions you might have along the way.
I want to cut steel. What blade to use?
You will need a jeweller's blade to cut metal and you will also need to slow your scroll saw down to its lowest speed. The size of the blade will depend on the thickness of the metal you are trying to cut. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
The piece you showed with the cat was beautiful. Growing up our youngest son's best buddy was his cat. The cat lived to be 19 and it broke our hearts when she died. I've got pictures of them together and if I think my skill is up to the challenge I will attempt to see if I can do as well as the master.
I hope you are successful with your project. I'd love to see it when you are done. Good luck and thanks for tuning in to the show and for the kind words.
Great video thank you very much
You're very welcome Russell. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. I'd be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
So my Pégas scroll saw finally showed up and I’m experimenting with the different blade types and so far find spiral to be the easiest. Do experienced scroll sawers think that’s amateurish or cheating?
Scrolling is scrolling no matter what blade you use. It takes just as much control to be able to maneuver a board up and down and side to side as it does to spin it to follow the lines. There is a matter of having more control with a spiral blade because it is not as aggressive as a normal blade. That is most likely why you are finding it easier. The only issue with a serial blade is that it is difficult to get crisp clean straight lines with them and for that reason, most scrollers don't use them as much. Cheating? Not at all. Enjoy what you do. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Kenny I do find you Videos very informative. Being a beginner and haven’t done one project as of yet I’m trying to find what blade to use. I’m curious as to why you pro’s don’t list what typed blade used on a project that you do. Thanks again.
On some programs Robert, I will start off a scrolling clip by stating that I am using a (insert blade size here) but for the most part, blade suggestions are strictly suggestive. The size of the blade is determined by so many factors. The thickness of the stock, the species, what part of the species (sap wood, heart wood, crotch, burl) the tightness of the curves etc. There are also factors like how your saw cuts. Does it slow down when working on harder cuts. There is also the factor of cutting style. How much pressure does the operator put on the stock as they are feeding it into the blade? It's impossible to know all of these factors so it's difficult to give a blade size because we don't know what you are working with. As an example, if I am making a project out of 5/8" poplar that has tight curves and smaller cuts, I might opt for a #5 blade. If you were to make the same project but decide that you want to make yours out of maple, the blade size would most likely be a #7 now due to the difference in hardness of the species. Although both are considered a hardwood, one is much harder that the other. I would suggest as a beginner, to start off like this. For woods that are 1/8"-3/8" in thickness, use a #2 or #3 blade. For woods that are 1/2"-5/8" use a #5 or a #7 blade. For woods that are 3/4"-1 1/4" use a #7 up to a #12 blade. If the blade that you are using isn't cutting the species due to one of the factors that I mentioned earlier, go up one size. Eventually, you will find that you hardly have to think about what blade to use because you will know what works for you, your saw and your cutting style. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you…you have answered a huge missing explanation that I’ve been looking for…as a beginner.
You are very welcome. I'm glad that you found the video helpful. Thanks for tuning in.
Hi kenny, i have a dre*el scroll saw with pin blades. I really want to try to use spiral blade. But i can not find the pinned spiral blade. Please help me Where i can find the pinned spiral blades. Thank you...
Sprial blades are not available (to the best of my knowledge) in a pinned blade form. Your best option here would be to purchase a conversion kit in order to allow your Dremel scroll saw to accept pinless blades. You can find these conversion kits on amazon for a fairly reasonable price. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks again, followed your link from the other video and this was most helpful. I now have a selection of blades and will test out what suits me best. Also thanks for your previous response - you're the first one to ever answer on here, so thanks for that as well. I was completely impressed with the artwork on about minute 34. That's incredible.
You're very welcome Rey. I'm glad that you found it all useful. I do my best to answer every single comment that I get on the channel. While I admit that there are a few that I somehow miss, for the most part, I am able to keep up with them. Thanks for the kind words on the cuttings and for tuning in to the show. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate.
Great information...thank you for putting this information out, especially us beginners.
You're very welcome Lee. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
That spiral blade should be used as a tool to promote safe sex... can you imaging having your bore punched and swabbed with that...
Great video I had no clue as to what all the blades were and what to use thank you for giving me a great start
You're very welcome. If you have any questions at all please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help you out. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's very much appreciated.