Good video, and one of the few that clarify that the riving knife must be thicker than the plate but thinner or exactly the same as the kerf (which is very hard so thinner is easier). Good to see well informed videos not only people making riving knifes with random thicknesses which is deceivingly dangerous.
My riving knife sits beside my saw more than on it for this exact reasons and I have to admit it never crossed my mind to make a smaller replacement. Cracking idea well executed. Now to find some steel plate....
Brilliant. I couldn't find anywhere to buy a replacement knife for my Bosch PTS 10 so that I could cut one down. Your video solves my problem. Thank you.
Very useful video. My little tablesaw came with a tall riving knife and a guard. The manual said 'this machine cannot be used for cutting rebates' (or words to that effect). I had always assumed it was something I'd have to live with, but now I have an option. I realise of course that there are some safety implications but these are not insurmountable if I use common sense and 'safe practice' when using the saw. Thanks for sharing.
Great stuff again. Just done this myself, but by cutting down the existing riving knife. I considered making a new one, but have a memory that the type and thickness of the steel are important.
Nice to know from the answer but, I wonder if at this thickness and under these mechanical requirements, steel grade is so important. I've seen videos of people using wood, acrylic, aluminum, brass, whatever flat stuff they could get and focusing more on shape, thickness and alignment than on material. If they can live with them (I couldn't) I guess then any general purpose steel grade would work.
Hi Matt Love the channel, the bench dog clamp system you used ? Have you done video on them? Are they any good where are they from? Thanks for all the content
Got you self a nice little appocolypse weapon there matt lolol great job mate. Just put of interest Did you sell the bosch saw you used to have in the old workshop.
I'm at the same point --- have a fat riving knife, can't use other blade I want (but at least I can do rabbets, it's not too high), I will not risk without protection. I considered making zero-clearance inserts with a splitter but then you'd want one for basically each blade height (as a faraway splitter is as helpful as a Hail Mary, just psychological). BUT. Why make them from metal, not some plastic? Because they don't exert much force, they have to just keep the two sides of the cut apart to avoid pinching/binding? If it were made from metal to survive a kickback event, then that's assuming its failing to work.
Brother that cut seems like deep 4 inches for one go. Thats too thick for one pass, and i saw that the wood bobbed up a bit. Such deep cuts are indeed hard to manage all three points of pressure. Just a suggestion , you do a two pass cut two inches each. That will be easier, manageable and cleaner.
Good video, and one of the few that clarify that the riving knife must be thicker than the plate but thinner or exactly the same as the kerf (which is very hard so thinner is easier).
Good to see well informed videos not only people making riving knifes with random thicknesses which is deceivingly dangerous.
My riving knife sits beside my saw more than on it for this exact reasons and I have to admit it never crossed my mind to make a smaller replacement. Cracking idea well executed. Now to find some steel plate....
Thanks Robert. Good luck with yours
Thanks!, for not making this simple thing into something much more complicated than it needs to be, which seems to be often be the case.
CheerZ!
Glad you made a video after my question! lol
It works well
Good job Matt
Thanks Chris
Brilliant. I couldn't find anywhere to buy a replacement knife for my Bosch PTS 10 so that I could cut one down. Your video solves my problem. Thank you.
I just got a small cheap table saw and I have the same problem. Another table saw I had before the riving knife was able to be adjusted below the saw
Yes more should be adjustable
Very useful video. My little tablesaw came with a tall riving knife and a guard. The manual said 'this machine cannot be used for cutting rebates' (or words to that effect). I had always assumed it was something I'd have to live with, but now I have an option. I realise of course that there are some safety implications but these are not insurmountable if I use common sense and 'safe practice' when using the saw. Thanks for sharing.
Yes these are all decisions we need to make for ourselves on what we are comfortable with
A very good idea!
Thank you Palle
Great stuff again. Just done this myself, but by cutting down the existing riving knife. I considered making a new one, but have a memory that the type and thickness of the steel are important.
Thank you
Well that went by rather quickly.
Nice job mate 👍
Riving knives are a must for any table saw. Always good to have the option available.
Yes I don't want to be without one
Love the idea.
Than you
Hey! I did the same thing for my Metabo TK 1256 a while ago. Exactly the same thing :) just a slightly different shape. I have it on ALL the time...
I can have it on all the time now
If you keep the riving knife on all the time, it can help keep your fingers on all the time as well 😄
Good job sir, I might have to make myself one as my riving knife sticks above the blade to.
Seems everyone has the same problem
Nice and easy! I should probably make one...
Thank you
Amazing that the designed the original that way, glad you found a solution!
Seems to be a very common problem
That should work well Matt.
Thank you
Simple and very effective!!!
Thanks Nick
Been meaning to do this for ages, was going to use an old table saw blade for the metal but wasn’t sure if a jigsaw blade would cut it...?
I am not sure. The riving knife also needs to be thicker than the body of the blade yet thinner than the kerf
thanks for the vid, I literally have the exact same problem with my table saw, thought about cutting it down but now maybe I'll try this first.
Cutting it down will work but means you can never use the blade guard again
Definitily the one that you made has nicer design , it flows nicely with the blade !!!!!.
Thank you
Hi Matt, well done. Could you please tell me what grade steel you used? Was it mild steel or some other grade?
I used 01 tool steel. I got it from eBay
Nice to know from the answer but, I wonder if at this thickness and under these mechanical requirements, steel grade is so important. I've seen videos of people using wood, acrylic, aluminum, brass, whatever flat stuff they could get and focusing more on shape, thickness and alignment than on material. If they can live with them (I couldn't) I guess then any general purpose steel grade would work.
I need to do this to mine. Currently don’t have mine installed for your reason. 😬😬
Its a good thing to have
Badger Workshop yes. Think I need to make or modify mine after seeing this. I’ve seen a few nasty things happen to others. Cheers.
Hi Matt
Love the channel, the bench dog clamp system you used ? Have you done video on them? Are they any good where are they from?
Thanks for all the content
th-cam.com/video/xwznCU2_95g/w-d-xo.html
and
th-cam.com/video/uQ2HR9kWNKo/w-d-xo.html
Saved yourself a few bob there Matt!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
And maybe some fingers
Done similar with my old Dewalt.
I think lots of people did the same
That great and looks just the job, nice one 👍
Thank you
Got you self a nice little appocolypse weapon there matt lolol great job mate. Just put of interest Did you sell the bosch saw you used to have in the old workshop.
Yes I sold it when I moved
I'm at the same point --- have a fat riving knife, can't use other blade I want (but at least I can do rabbets, it's not too high), I will not risk without protection. I considered making zero-clearance inserts with a splitter but then you'd want one for basically each blade height (as a faraway splitter is as helpful as a Hail Mary, just psychological). BUT. Why make them from metal, not some plastic? Because they don't exert much force, they have to just keep the two sides of the cut apart to avoid pinching/binding? If it were made from metal to survive a kickback event, then that's assuming its failing to work.
Brother that cut seems like deep 4 inches for one go. Thats too thick for one pass, and i saw that the wood bobbed up a bit.
Such deep cuts are indeed hard to manage all three points of pressure.
Just a suggestion , you do a two pass cut two inches each. That will be easier, manageable and cleaner.
Cut rebates.
Why don’t I get notified when you get a new vid out ? I am a sub and have the bell tapped but never get a notification ?
Sorry Dave I have no idea why
thatnotmakingone it modifiing one click bater