You did not show the process of spraying/building up the clear coat on top of the waxed mold, before laying down the carbon fiber. From my experience, you must spray many VERY LIGHT mist coats to build up the surface (4 to 8?), then spray a medium coat, then a wet coat. If you don't use enough mist coats, the med coat will bunch up into globs, and you have to start all over, after the mess of globs cures. Reading the last comment, the process of spraying the clear coat into the mold, then molding the carbon fiber on top, is time consuming: takes me about 45 minutes to spray the mist coats, flash 5-10 minutes between, then the medium and wet coat. However, it saves hours of post-mold work as you mentioned, where the part has to be sanded, clear coated, cured, sanded again (pin holes appear in the first clear coat layer), clear coat again, and possible cure, sand, and re-clear until there are no pin holes. Pin holes appear where every fiber tow (bundle) goes under a cross tow: in 4 places! That's a lot of pin holes. Also, the clear coat will always have an orange peel texture, because you sprayed the clear coat on to the part. You'd have to cut (progressive sand) and polish the clear coat to get it "flat". Or, do the Clear In Mold process!
Hi, well its pretty simple. clearcoating a finished part needs sanding the part , spraying, curing .... big risk of dust in clearcoat, runs ... you need to fix this again to alot of work and time. Where clear coat in mould you need to finish the mould 1 time verry good and polish it. when spraying the clear coat in mould you cant get any dust on the surface of the part, you always get the finish of the mould. so time consuming is a big difference.
@@calico88 not really, also the fabric stiks alot better with spray adhesive and you wont see it after demoulding. Only con can be that if u you got bridging you dont got open resin that you can fill in because its between the fabric and the celarcoat now.
Thanks for sharing! I thought the clearcoat would react badly with the wax, so I never tried it, I'll give this method a try, Thanks!
Great work, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing new video tutorial 😍
My pleasure 😊
Nice job again, well done!
Awesome video. Thank you for sharing
Good job!
C'est magnifique
You did not show the process of spraying/building up the clear coat on top of the waxed mold, before laying down the carbon fiber. From my experience, you must spray many VERY LIGHT mist coats to build up the surface (4 to 8?), then spray a medium coat, then a wet coat. If you don't use enough mist coats, the med coat will bunch up into globs, and you have to start all over, after the mess of globs cures.
Reading the last comment, the process of spraying the clear coat into the mold, then molding the carbon fiber on top, is time consuming: takes me about 45 minutes to spray the mist coats, flash 5-10 minutes between, then the medium and wet coat. However, it saves hours of post-mold work as you mentioned, where the part has to be sanded, clear coated, cured, sanded again (pin holes appear in the first clear coat layer), clear coat again, and possible cure, sand, and re-clear until there are no pin holes. Pin holes appear where every fiber tow (bundle) goes under a cross tow: in 4 places! That's a lot of pin holes. Also, the clear coat will always have an orange peel texture, because you sprayed the clear coat on to the part. You'd have to cut (progressive sand) and polish the clear coat to get it "flat". Or, do the Clear In Mold process!
👍👍
Hi, I was wondering:what is your experience with in mould clear coat and why do you use it compared to painting it?
Looks awesome btw
Hi, well its pretty simple. clearcoating a finished part needs sanding the part , spraying, curing .... big risk of dust in clearcoat, runs ... you need to fix this again to alot of work and time.
Where clear coat in mould you need to finish the mould 1 time verry good and polish it. when spraying the clear coat in mould you cant get any dust on the surface of the part, you always get the finish of the mould. so time consuming is a big difference.
@@Republicofcomposites awesome,I was sceptical so I never bought some but maybe I'll try that next time :)
@@litare4328 ik really got more advantage than not if you got nice molds
What’s the difference between in mould clear coat you use than regular clear coat for finishing the carbon ?
In term of composition .
I use this clear coat after testing I found this curing fast at normal temp and it has good bonding with the resin infusing epoxy.
@@Republicofcomposites there is no cons using this in mold coat?
I can not buy locally, not even different brand that special for in mold coating.
😞
@@calico88 not really, also the fabric stiks alot better with spray adhesive and you wont see it after demoulding. Only con can be that if u you got bridging you dont got open resin that you can fill in because its between the fabric and the celarcoat now.
@@Republicofcomposites you can see some bubble like because of bridging between fabric and in mold coat. Ok thanks