For that small part I wouldnt even use a spiral on the inlet of the epoxy, and the flowmesh can be 1/5 as big. You just need flowmedia around your part if you have a slow curing Epoxy. The Epoxy will be sucked into the dry fibers when the part is this small.
@@Republicofcompositesahh yes if it's cold it's a good idea, but if you have the slow curing epoxy I think it would be good anyway, the part is really small.
@@racecomp3639 nice, mine is 0.8m by 1.7m. Is big enough atm but in future I want bigger one. The 1.5m at 4m looks like ideal size for also doing car parts.
You can use polyester to reinforce but I rather like full carbon fibre no fake parts. In the set of the 2 funnels there is less than square meter of fabric and 400gram of resin. I can do prepreg but don't see much advantage in it, the parts don't get under any stress and they are post cured to 120°c.
First of all, Good job, i can help you with this.... me helping you save money and time and make your job faster and easier...so basically earn more per hour. 1) Cut the square smaller 5 Cm smaller around, there is no need for so big surface, you spend more time/ resin/tubes/mesh,peel ply and materials unneeded and you waist money in air.. 2)You just need 3 layers, there is no point adding 5 or overall 8 or 9 layers you have for this part of application. 3)Where you put the gum tape / vacuum tape, you don't need to add paper tape before that, just put the vacuum tape the first time, and then add the transparent gelcoat. its faster and easier, saves time and cost. 4)I would close the upper hole to like let the carbon overlap the top, so its easier to remove, just stick a screwdriver through it when its done and unstuck it faster, or make a hole there, and fill it with the yellow putty or what it's called, then just blow air in it from the other side. 4) I would advise you to buy mesh with a plastic film in one, saves time. 5) lot of people put peel ply on all of the back surface, but you don't need to, just leave the mesh with the plastic film as the last layer, saves time/money. But if its for looks, yes peel ply is best. for the finish. 6) please use gloves when adding glue, save your health and skin. 7) buy some adhesive so the carbon sticks to the other layers, and the mesh with the plastic film AND a adhesive for Carbon so it does not move the fabric around and make little fabrics come out, it will save you time to press them down with hands/fingers. 8) if you leave the mesh with the plastic film as the last layer, you don't need to put the peel ply as the last layer and just use the peel ply as a BRAKE for the resin. Add a strip of peel ply before the vacuum line, so it brakes the resin and allows the resin to catch up. all of this is easy to do, and we make car parts like that, even some parts for HGK drift team when they order some of them from us.
Your two part method has been what I needed to figure how to make these stacks for my Aprilia RSV4. The tabs where the bolts go break off easily...
@@AdamWarwicker I made them 5layers 220g twill carbon
@@Republicofcomposites thanks, that's great to know and I'm sure they won't break!
Awesome work. Thanks.
Thnks!
@@Republicofcomposites How did you cut the perfect hole?
@@mrsimo7144 the center hole?
@@Republicofcomposites The sheet you laid down with the hole cut out? It's just, a perfect hole?
@@mrsimo7144 "pizza" cutter www.123inkt.be/Olfa-RTY-2-G-roterend-mes-45-mm-RTY-2-G-i53348-t607539.html?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgrO4BhC2ARIsAKQ7zUm8H0uVkmTwdHq2nx0C2_56l4kDUxPXEndwjvGiA6nAon14wjSNxuMaAg0XEALw_wcB
I came across a video that satisfies my current desire
Thank you! Pls subscribe there Wil be more in the future!
For that small part I wouldnt even use a spiral on the inlet of the epoxy, and the flowmesh can be 1/5 as big. You just need flowmedia around your part if you have a slow curing Epoxy. The Epoxy will be sucked into the dry fibers when the part is this small.
@@NiclasGudmundsson it's really cold here so the epoxy doesn't flow that well. It could work but I wanted to be safe.
@@Republicofcompositesahh yes if it's cold it's a good idea, but if you have the slow curing epoxy I think it would be good anyway, the part is really small.
Very nice!
Thanks!
Magnifique 😊
Bravo 👏🏿 👏🏿
Very talented! I am based in Tokyo. What the best way to contact your services?
Hello, thnx!
My instagram and e mail are in my channel profile.
regards
Thanks a lot for this nice video ! Hi from france ( Lille ;) ) do you organise sometimes some teaching event in Belgium for beginners like me ?
Impressive!
I would've been lazy and went for prepreg.
Thnx, well after the first set I'm thinking the same thing. Prepreg would been faster.
I had the same thought, prepreg would been a 20 minuters job for lay up.
Pre preg kills it shame I can’t post a picture of the real deal
Nice so you also got an autoclave!
@@Republicofcomposites Yes mate I do, had many various sizes over the years I’ve sold my big one 6.5mtr x 2.4mtr wide. Still have a 4x1.5mtr clave.
@@racecomp3639 nice, mine is 0.8m by 1.7m. Is big enough atm but in future I want bigger one. The 1.5m at 4m looks like ideal size for also doing car parts.
What was the process for making the mold?
Vinylester moulds
all this material for just one piece? too there is another method to do it!!! ....pre-preg fiber and do infusion?
You can use polyester to reinforce but I rather like full carbon fibre no fake parts. In the set of the 2 funnels there is less than square meter of fabric and 400gram of resin. I can do prepreg but don't see much advantage in it, the parts don't get under any stress and they are post cured to 120°c.
First of all, Good job, i can help you with this.... me helping you save money and time and make your job faster and easier...so basically earn more per hour.
1) Cut the square smaller 5 Cm smaller around, there is no need for so big surface, you spend more time/ resin/tubes/mesh,peel ply and materials unneeded and you waist money in air..
2)You just need 3 layers, there is no point adding 5 or overall 8 or 9 layers you have for this part of application.
3)Where you put the gum tape / vacuum tape, you don't need to add paper tape before that, just put the vacuum tape the first time, and then add the transparent gelcoat. its faster and easier, saves time and cost.
4)I would close the upper hole to like let the carbon overlap the top, so its easier to remove, just stick a screwdriver through it when its done and unstuck it faster, or make a hole there, and fill it with the yellow putty or what it's called, then just blow air in it from the other side.
4) I would advise you to buy mesh with a plastic film in one, saves time.
5) lot of people put peel ply on all of the back surface, but you don't need to, just leave the mesh with the plastic film as the last layer, saves time/money. But if its for looks, yes peel ply is best. for the finish.
6) please use gloves when adding glue, save your health and skin.
7) buy some adhesive so the carbon sticks to the other layers, and the mesh with the plastic film AND a adhesive for Carbon so it does not move the fabric around and make little fabrics come out, it will save you time to press them down with hands/fingers.
8) if you leave the mesh with the plastic film as the last layer, you don't need to put the peel ply as the last layer and just use the peel ply as a BRAKE for the resin. Add a strip of peel ply before the vacuum line, so it brakes the resin and allows the resin to catch up.
all of this is easy to do, and we make car parts like that, even some parts for HGK drift team when they order some of them from us.
Kindly reply my email.