Chuck Hellebuyck's E-Leveler. Be your own bed probe!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 พ.ค. 2024
- Hello, 3D Printing friends! Today we're going to take a look at Chuck Hellebuyck's E-Leveler, a clever little device to help you level your bed.
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Downloads & Full Instructions at Chuck's web site:
• www.chepclub.com/electronic-b...
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I like things that light up! 😁 Great video Bryan!
just got mine along with a PEI bed and finally I do not have to fight with leveling the bed when it needs it. more time printing, less time fussing is a win, and it's not like the price is prohibitive.
Wow always enjoyed your video thanks for sharing DD.
That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve our Channel's so l have subscribe to your channel too .All the best DD..
I have one, It works great !!
Same here! Invaluable in getting the bed trammed so then you can do the fine mapping….
One improvement would be to create a jig stl for proper placement on the corners.
thnx for being thorough
Excellent video. I really appreciate the information that you provided. Now, if I end up having to buy a manual bed leveling printer, I’ll have a handy tool to help me.
damn this was very clever
I've got one of these and i think it is great.
Awesome channel!!!
Thanks!
Thanks!
Wow, thanks very much, John!
If we have a CR touch do we use this then just do the standard procedure in setting up the offset and such with the CR touch?
I bought one of the pre-assembled ones and it's pretty good.
I'm also using the Jyers 10x10 UBL firmware and used the E-leveler to get each probe point's z offset perfect. It's so convenient.
Can you explain how you do this?
wow every cool bv3d
Can you use them for manual mesh? The routine starts the nozzle at +0.20 which means you can’t get the leveller under the nozzle. Can you just wing the z up to the point where you can get the leveler under? I’m told it doesn’t matter what feeler gauge you use so what if you use the leveler at around 5.8 mm for each mesh point?
Lol. Thank you. I said I’d watch tonight on twit
Has the aspect of whether the X gantry is 1st square to the Z rails been covered before? If it's not then you're likely to make a trapezoid instead of a square.
I don't think I've done a video about that. I probably should!
@@BV3D on that note... I should really check mine. I did the Luke Hatfield reassembly method after having mine for 2wks; that was over 2yrs ago.
I made a simple leveling jig for doing that on the Ender3Max.
So I have that tool.. just got a Elegoo 3 plus.. so I have 6 wheels and 320x320 bed… can I use one of the gcodes? Problem is the corners might be ok… but not the other 2 points.
I just bought your leveling board on Amazon yesterday and got it today. Looking at the files it Shows ender 2 and ender 3 I have a ender 5 pro as well as Ender 7 any chance you could add them to the leveling gcode?
I must be doing something wrong. I have gone around and adjusted each knob to just barely turn on the light. I have done this 4 times now, each time needing to go up more. Now on the 5th try, I ran out of adjustment space. Using Sprite Extruder Pro with a BLTOUCH mounted and E-Leveler 2. Is it the BLTOUCH? Do I need to lose it or turn it off? This is very frustrating.
Sir you are the bob Ross 3d printing, your loyal grasshopper.🙏
Where is my starting point for my knobs on my springs?
I had one could not get it to work with my glass beds
Is there one for the cr10s pro?
Be nice to be able to get one posted to the UK at a reasonable price. But at over £30 incl postage from the USA its far too expensive. I even tried to order a Geeetech copy but the airline would not accept it because is was electronic?
i ordered a fystec clone with a round pcb but it had to be reshipped because it contained a battery, still waiting for it
WHT king of fan do you have in there ? That is pretty slick
So I do have a question I'm new to 3d printing and my calibration cube looks good except on one corner it's blobing.. it looks like it's stopping on that corner and melting it causing the blob to form but the taller my cube gets the better it looks .. any ideas ?
mmm that sounds like elephant's foot, a common issue in 3d print world. try the cube with a raft and see if it still has that symptom. also can try lowering your bed temp by 5 degrees.
@@ashvanes484 I've checked for elephants foot but it seems that this blobing issue is only on one corner even after making the adjustment for elephant foot . Seems like it's cased from the extruder stopping on that one corner
@@kwadaholicreviews6354 try turning power loss recovery on the printer off if you can, that might help
What about if you want to give this a go on a machine other than an Ender? Say an Ultimaker 2+ or CR-10S, etc
I think a universal jig with slightly modified geode for the corners is the way to go to make more accessible to different printers.
Just choose the file that matches your bed size. CR-10s use the Ender max files.
I'm confused. A sheet of paper is a darn-sight thinner than this leveler tool. How do you compensate for the difference in thickness when trying to achieve perfect nozzle height across the board?
The G-code file which moves the nozzle to the corners put the nozzle at Z=5.8mm at each corner. Chuck used calipers to press the switch, squeezing between the "crosshairs" side of the board and the button on the switch, and that's the distance he measured when the switch was triggered. So that's the value he set in the G-code file. With Z at 5.8mm above the zero point, adjusting the leveling knob to trigger the E Leveler's switch should put the distance between the bed and the nozzle right about 5.8mm. So, when the Z axis is at 0, the nozzle should be just barely touching the bed.
Chuck thought it was odd that I had to set a 0.2mm Z offset on my printer, so I measured the trigger distance with my calipers, and came up with a value closer to 5.6mm. Chuck recently had to change from a round switch to a square one, because the round ones were no longer being produced. My E Leveler has the square switch, so that seems to account for the difference. Chuck is going to make another G-code file available for people whose E Levelers have square switches, and it'll set the Z axis to 5.6mm, so it should be pretty close to perfect again.
@@BV3D That explanation is perfect and answers my question beautifully. Thanks!!
@@crooker2 You're very welcome!
Great video. I received my device today. The battery had been removed from the package? The battery will not stay in the holder on the device. I suspect that I received a defective returned device. so buyer beware.
Oh, make sure the springs are not loose after running the adjustment process (everyone has replaced their stock springs w/ yellow, right? 😉) . Ideally they should be about 2 turns from snug which may require moving the Z endstop.
@Old Curmudgeon comin' in with the good advice! 👍
@@BV3D I don't always troll (or live up to my handle). Who knew. 😉😂
How much rotation do you consider "a turn" to be? The roughly 30 degrees that's convenient to do before your fingers get tangled on the bed? 90 degrees? 360 degrees? Of course I'm not planning to measure this precisely, just trying to get a sense of what you're suggesting, so I can adopt this best practise. :)
@BV3D - random but did you see the Biqu×E3d Revo integrated H2 it looks like a good change 😀 I'm ready for it
$25+shipping seems a bit ... expensive IMHO. Probably because of the small batch of manufacturing I guess. Guess I can try copying the design using a protoboard. Hopefully he doesn't mind.
As far as I know, Chuck doesn't mind at all. In fact he did his first prototypes on protoboards, and in one of his videos about it, he even says you can do that. 👍
Confused by this product tbh… I think it’s priced too high for what it is, and makes more sense if spending this much already to go a little further and get the bl or cr touch.
totally agree
but a BL Touch™ is $35? I thought this was a neat idea when Chuck posted it, but how much is your time worth? By the time you print the parts and assemble it, haven't you spent close to the cost of a BLT in your time and money? I love to see DIY solutions, but how broke can a printer user be?
what kind of fat fingers
It's £50! Forget it. Do you know how much paper I can buy for that? It's a LED with a battery.
Oh, and I bet you didn't spend the $70 on one! Rip off!
Hi Simon! With that Pound sign, I'm guessing you're in the UK. I don't know how much paper costs over there, but I'm sure that for £50, you could probably buy a lot of it. From where I sit, though, these are $25 USD (which, admittedly, would still buy a lot of paper).
As I stated in the video, Chuck sent me one of these to try out. I liked it, so I made the video about it.
And yes, it's an LED and a battery and a resistor and a circuit board. You could 100% build one yourself on some perfboard. If you have the parts laying about, great! The cost to you is £0! And Chuck Hellebuyck stated in at least one of his videos about the device that he was perfectly happy for people to make their own. If you don't have the parts laying around, you could probably source them locally for a lot less than £50. I honestly don't know why it costs that much for you.
Anyway, whether you want to keep using paper, or want to build one of these yourself, I hope you have an awesome day! 👍
@@BV3D so, two months later they are £45.29 here in the UK ($52). This is still massively prohibitive for anyone remotely thinking of buying an led with a battery.
Luckily, someone else produces them now much cheaper, but still overpriced.
$25+shipping seems a bit ... expensive IMHO. Probably because of the small batch of manufacturing I guess. Guess I can try copying the design using a protoboard. Hopefully he doesn't mind.
wow, I had no idea it was that much! I imagined it was around $10!
As far as I know, Chuck doesn't mind at all. In fact he did his first prototypes on protoboards, and in one of his videos about it, he even says you can do that. 👍
@@BV3D I made one :). I basically replicate the same circuit using an IC board so I don't have to do the PCB. I still learning the rope but I can say it's easier than fidgeting with an A4 paper.
Many thanks to Chuck and to you as well!
@@WutipongWongsakuldej Awesome! 👍🏻