Take The Guesswork Out Of Leveling Your 3d Printer
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 มิ.ย. 2022
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In today's video we take a look at the Filament Friday E-Lever that created by Chuck Hellebuyck (CHEP) to help new users that are struggling to level there bed. Having a properly leveled bed is one of the most important things needed to get a good first layer when 3d printing. Without this your chances of print failure increase substantially. We will go over what the E-Lever is, how it works, and we will level a 3d printer.
Chuck's recent video on modifying the G-Code for the leveler:
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I've switched to SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE in klipper, which uses the probe to measure each bed screw location, and tells you how much to rotate the knob to get each corner level. I've seen this leveler around but it only seems useful for non-probe printers.
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WHat a nice feature
That's quite crazy
SCREWS_TILT_CALCULATE then G29 for bed mesh and done but before that will need to do a PROBE_CALIBRATE
The creator has a setup for CR/BL touch also using the e-leveler
Best summary of E-Leveler yet. Great video!
can I use this on Klipper with my Ender 3?
I know it's a minor point and probably VERY petty of me but I am SO glad that you called it a "tactile"switch instead of a "tactical" switch which I hear hear far to often.
Professional Firmware makes this so easy; using the BL touch to probe each corner to then show on screen wich knob to turn such that the bed is properly level. It then can create the bed mesh and that's it; a level bed and no extra equipment required. But this little contraption sure is useful for printers without BL touch or that require manual leveling, since Professional Firmware isn't available for all printers as far as I know.
Chuck is awesome. I got the "Kit" Chuck put out first in where you have to put the leveler together yourself and have not used it yet becaus,e as you say, I'm ok with my feeler gauge /paper system I use. I got the leveler system to mainly support Chuckles :) Thanks for all you great work in our community
Thank you Modbot and thank you Chep for this awesome tool👏
@Kersey Fabrications got me to use feeler gauges to do my leveling/tramming. It is combined with an EZABL from TH3D. However last week I purchased one of these units to try and get better results. Thanks for the video.
My first printer was a cr10s. The bed was not completely flat. I ended up getting the th3d ezabl and that made life easier.
Excellent video, good sir! 👍
It can be said that is a bit pricey for what you get but it is its innovation, convenience and simplicity of it that give it value for money. Chep has and does do a lot for the 3D printing community for free so I think he deserves some recompense. I just wish it was on Amazon UK the postage does push it above my budget.
This feels like a solution looking for a problem. It's far more complicated than manual levelling.
Great video !!! Does the E-Leveler work on all the Kingroon KP3S series of printers ?
I've got a Chuck's leveling tool. I've felt no need to use it. When my Voxelab Aquila comes out of level (or I feel like I want to level it based upon how a print turns out), I gravitate to the paper + 5 points method and do that like 5 times and then do a level test. I understand that my PEI flex bed isn't 100% flat and I compensate for that when leveling. Nothing can help level a really bad bed, not even Chuck's tool.
I have been using pronterface to manually control my printer and level the bed with a feeler gauge. I may look into adjusting chucks gcode for use with a feeler gauge.
Cheaper method: metal gauge instead of paper and a multimeter set on continuity test.
Even cheaper: folded aluminum foil.
Seems like a great idea that is successful, but I have to wonder about slight variations on the sourced tactile switches. Not all batches engage at the same distance. Plus the accuracy from the button on the pcb an the "foot" at the other end that is 3d printed can vary. The travel distance of the tactile switch also will change the angle of the board itself, causing a slope. How is this corrected for? Is there a version for longer/wider print heads such as the Sprite Pro? How does it affect printers with an ABL sensor?
Hi Modbot, unrequested advice but you might want to add a short PTFE tubing on the input of your extruder, after few hours of printing mine started to be file by the filament.
That said thanks for your tutorials
At first, I was doing the paper method and got confused on how much the friction it should be. I then considered buy this one but the shipment cost is pretty high (I'm in SE Asia.).
Then I made a clone using an IC board an a few components. It works pretty well. It doesn't look as well made as Chuck's though.
Later on I learned that I can use the built-in leveller to do this. All I need is to flash a new Merlin firmware in. The stock one can only probe the bed, but doesn't assist the traming.
Now I'm a happy Ender 3 S1 user with the professional firmware :).
I don't see the problem with manual levelling. How difficult is it to make sure the friction is the same for all four corners by feel? They just need to be the same. That is what level means.
If you're not sure what this friction level should be, or is worried that you would set it too low and immediately destroy it when it digs into the bed ... the solution is obvious. Err on the _too far_ side initially. Then test and see if the first layer sticks.
Eg, first you make sure there is a mark on each adjustment knob, so you can note the setting. Write it down. For the initial first test, when you want to err on the "too far" side, instead of using a piece of paper, you use something thicker. Maybe two or three sheets of thick card stock (like a postcard). At least the bed would be level, if a little bit too far. Test one layer. If it does not stick, move it closer, one card. Then one piece of paper.
After you remove the paper, turn the knob further until the bed itself is in contact with the head. Look at the setting on the knob. That is the gap you have. The gap is tiny, but not zero. Because paper has thickness.
PS: of course don't forget and set that corner again. Don't leave it in contact with the head.
Well I am self taught and kind of like stuff to be hard....
...So hard that I got a ender 3 2 years ago and got a CR-10 shortly after. I added a micro Swiss all metal hot end and an enclosure and printed ABS using a business card for my leveling tool. (( im picky on what cards I use for leveling a bed. ))
lol. I kept trying to clean my screen but the marks were on your wall in the background.
Friday I got my ender 5 pro it wasn't any problem putting it together but it took me till Sunday afternoon to finally get my first successful print ( dog ) So I would like to ask besides the leveler here what would you recommend for a beginner what to purchase for my 5 Pro ? and thanks in advance
I bought one off Amazon for 20$ and I measured it at 5.4mm when the button is pressed enough for the light to just come on, I set my z off set to 5.4 and when it auto homes it's already way to low to slide the leveler under, is it because I have a built in auto level sensor on my printer? (Aquila x3)
I have a Printrbot Plus 2.1. It seems to have an odd size bed compared to most current FDM machines. Can this tool be used to level my bed?
Will this work for doing mesh bed leveling
I’ve had a few good prints but not consistent. I’ve done BL touch which I don’t like. Leveling is what has caused me not to touch my printer for over a year now
I'm also in the feeler gauge crowd. You can't beat the "feel" of metal-on-metal.
There will be manufacturing tolerances on the thickness of the PCB, differences in the distance the switch is soldered from the PCB, then repeatability of the switch itself (it will activate at a difference pressure each time). All this needs to be taken into account when tramming.
I'm not dumping on his project, just people need to be aware that this method will not be as accurate.
Who cares about the thickness of the PCB? You aren't calibrating an offset, you're leveling the bed, so you will always have the same thickness for all your bed corners. The repeatability of a momentary switch is higher than that of a BLTouch.
After using this leveling tool, you still have to correct the Z offset right? I just recently purchased an ender 3 s1 pro and I'm having quite a bit of trouble getting first layer adhesion even with the cr touch bed leveler. I'll manually level each corner with paper but then the center of the build plate won't be correct. Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
I was able to print the preloaded cat file after a little bit of work but right after that the next print would not stick.
No, the E-Leveler should give you a perfect bed level at 0.0 Z offset.
@@FilamentFriday fantastic. Thank you for the reply! I just put in an order for it!
@@XxBAC4everxX there are also test prints to get the center of the bed correct, usually called bed level test or similar. If there are gaps between the lines z offset is too high, if its bumpy rough it is too low.
I have gotten used to the paper method, but you can't escape a warped printing bed :3
So now I just bed level it with my eyes xD I bring it just close enough that it doesn't drag on the bed. It's not for everyone, but it works for me ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ (for anyone that cares, yes I tried printing on glass, it's not a fun time getting things removed though ...So I got myself a flex plate (or whatever it's called) and I'm never gonna change it with anything else!)
I have this same printer
I have G34 in my start code to level the gantry then Autobim is run from within Octoprint to assist me in manually levelling the bed and then the bed is probed in a 5X5 mesh before the print is started, subsequent prints are done with the bed mesh for about 8 prints and then I use the levelling profile again, sometimes I level the bed with the paper method and then use Autobim to see how accurate I am, I can level the bed to where I think it is perfect and a couple of times I have got it bang on but the majority of the time I am slightly out
And with manual levelling, you only have a 1x1 mesh. You can only adjust the four corners. The bed is unlikely to be perfectly flat. That is why you use a 5x5 mesh, right?
@@danielch6662 thats right!
I bought the the leveler but was immediately disappointed upon discovering the clip or lip to retain battery was missing entirely. I broke down the packaging completely to ensure it wasn’t hiding somewhere. No luck
Where to buy in UK, it's not on the uk Amazon site ?
I keep seeing the hanger on you wall and thinking that's a water droplet on my screen
How do you determine the offset needed? I've been using the paper test in the middle after running the e leveler but that does not seem to be accurate.
Watch the video several times, search for additional tutorials online etc. Clearly u are missing some steps on the process
My CR10 v3 has the worst bed I've ever seen. No leveling method works because the surface is like waves on the ocean. Any suggestions of how to get a level surface?
Get a real 3D printer.
I use a feeler gauge and manually move the nozzle to each corner. Sometimes I go to print and find that something changes and the bed is off. The majority of the time it's the motored dual z kit, the right side skips steps for whatever reason and I'll have to take a ruler and double check that the x is parallel to the frame on both sides.
I appreciate Chucks effort, but $25... Maybe it's an inspiration to make one yourself with a battery, resistor and a LED?
Mine work great but the red piece was kinda loose. In my panic to level the bed it fell off several times. I use painters ta but am contemplating a drop of super glue. Thank you for stating a way to increase the time allowed. He has stated or made a video that you can change it on some printers you can make it stop at each corner until you are done and click to move it to the next corner. Thank you for your videos.
How’s this accurate? Paper is much smaller and closer to the bed than using this which is much thicker… much much thicker or higher. Would this not throw it off?
You account for the pcb thickness with an offset value.
I can't see how it helps level the bed when you look at the big amount of gap it has between it and the bed when leveling? there must be at least a 8 to 10 mm gap there.
You would to need to do a big z off set of that amount to have a leveled bed or it would just be floating above the bed by that 8 or 10 mm gap.
So good idea but really can't see having that gap helps.
As for bed leveling the old way so to speak I had a hell of a time doing the 1st 3D printer I got a 2020 model of a Tronxy X5SA.. the bed being 330 mm square with 6 adjustment screws was to say the least impossible to level. Yes it states it has a auto leveling system, But the original blue sensor they did was a waste of time as it detects only the steel metal base under the bed cover which it's self was thick aluminium so was not picked up be the magnetic sensor. I spent many hours trying to do auto leveling and the manual version all with not luck even doing the z off set was a pain.
I in the process of fitting the Tronxy with a 3D Touch so I can use the printer after it been left sitting for 3 years.
Later on I got a Aquila and being a smaller bed was a bit easier to level, it now has a C R Touch there as I even had issues sometimes leveling it well?
Now I have also a FL SUN Delta QQ-S Pro with a good auto level probe you attach only as needed.
I just last week managed to order in a pre-launch video by Elegoo one of the upcoming Elegoo Neptune 3 FDM Printers. it was on sale and will cost me less than my Aquila did.
This has full auto advanced Stain Gage leveling head system. so it be a dream.
Hopefully later some time I wish to get the new Elegoo Saturn 3 Resin Printer that was just launched on the video last Saturday where I ordered the Neptune 3 FDM printer.
yeah it is only using a microswich , for that price I would have expected it to use some kind of resistive or capacitive foil or something, something almost as thin as a piece of paper
I mean for $25 I can just order a CR touch off ali
or a BL clone for less than half that , looks like either way you will still have to go through the same trial and error as leveling a least once to set he z height offset
I don't see the benefit really especially when a probe is cheaper
maybe the next version could use a capacitive film
probably could find a lot of old digitizers for old phones or other devices with resistive screens
if that would be the better route for cheap
$24 for essentially a resistor ,a LED , a battery, a microswitch and a piece of perf board is not worth it honestly ,
There's no need to have to adjust your z offsets when using this tool. It's exactly the same as leveling with a piece of paper and trying to feel for the specific drag of the paper but instead you're looking for the light to come on when you have reached the appropriate level. The tool is about 5 mm thick and the G-Code that you run picks up the nozzle to 5.8 mm and moves it around to the various points. So you're using that point 8 mm as the leveling distance that you need to adjust with all your screws. Instead of a 2 mm thick piece of paper you're using a 5 mm thick tool but it's the same idea.
Bed leveling sensor is the best thing a 3d printer must have. It´s a must in every single new printer. Ender 3 owners know this very well.
Do I have to mess with my Z offset still?
Lol yeah . Is not that hard. It probably would take 20mins or so to manually level your bed without this pcb stuff. Just like anything 3dp related: you just need yo adjust several times , then after that just fine tune. After that you barely need to re- bed level this. But still is not that hard. Wonder why may people find it difficult. Just do it several timeS till you see some results.
Why not use a dial indicator ?
all i got to say is ...auto bed leveler!!
Thanks for the great tutorial, but man, the image on your build plate hurts my brain.
Chuck's instrument is only available in the US😒
I like it, but I have a hard time justifying $25 for one. :/ Even for the diy kit, it's $12 from his site + $8 USA shipping. however you still need to get a battery and solder it. I think the additional couple $ from Amazon would be worth the time saved + not needing to source a battery. But $25 is too much. I'd pay $15 shipped (USA) for the kit. But that's about it. :/
He could have included a 3d printed cr2032 holder
not mount he battery on the board and have it detached and connected with some wires
I really need to print some of those, haven't looked yet but I bet there are STL files for cr2032 holders
If your a badass, use your eyes
25$ for about 1$ of components is just not realistic - also depending on the quality of the tactile switch the button press offset is neither constant nor particularly accurate (still accurate enough for a normal 3D printer but still varying quite a bit)
too complected , get yellow hard springs and be done with it
Mine are blue.
hit and/or miss
Nope!! First video of yours I have watched I did not like. Hate to say that, you are great, but a hard no to Chucks "leveling tool".
I thought I saw this tool a couple years back made by another small youtube channel but I could just be mistaking for the
FS-Touch Bed Levelling Tool by Antzy X
Which this is the link to the video if anyone is interested
th-cam.com/video/RZ0BV73TAOc/w-d-xo.html