Awesome video! You were straight to the point and had very good camera angles with detailed instructions. I may have to reopen my briggs v twin after just rebuilding it. The governor arm will not adjust. It is stuck in full throttle. I suspect the governor weights broke when i started it up. The 1/4in governor shaft hexhead is whats stuck, and cant be adusted. Lets see what happens...
As an electrical engineer I can say that the device reading your RPMs should most deffinitely be wrapped around the wire. The wrapping allows for more coupling between the two wires and hugher currents to flow. The unit you yave is just a simple pulse counter and IMHO if its giving you reasonable numbers (not saying 10k RPM or 138RPM) then I would think it should be fairly accurate. I would guess within 10% or so of reality. Great video! I have always messed with the spring to adjust the tension. Either cutting it or stretching it past plastic deformation. The tab method is probably easier.
This was my first time with this type of meter. Wrapping around the wire was the key to a more consistent reading. I'm sure I will grow to trust it more with use. Most small engines will have an attachment point for the spring that can be adjusted to change top rpm.
I can see you really know your stuff. I'm having problems with a B&s 14.5 i/c quiet OHV 287707-1279 E1. Flames came from exhaust after running about an hrs. Exhaust starts glowing hot. Clearly overheating. Black smoke on startup and black around exhaust holes. Runs up and down when under load. On a Dixon 3014 ztr. New air filter and spark plug, never had a gas filter. I didn't check spark plug gap before installing. With the excess heat, I'm thinking to much gas or not enough air, making Rich. No gas smell from exhaust however. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hi, black around exhaust usually means it's getting too much gas. choke may be partially closed. float may be too high. also flames could mean that exhaust valve needs to be adjusted. if exhaust valve is just slightly open during combustion you will get very hot exhaust gas leaking through. Make sure the spark plug is the correct one. There are a lot of possibilities.
Nice video. Thanks for sharing My 2012 420cc B&S surges up and down. I replaced the carb and coil. No change. Then I noticed the governor arm swings back and forth when engine is running. Valves working properly and compression at spec. I'm thinking to convert the throttle to manual operation and leave the choke mechanism the same. Replacing the governor requires buying the entire bottom of the case and is quite expensive. Is there somewhere I can just buy the governor/gear and bottom seal? This is used for a small yard and really doesn't have that many hours on it. I change the oil and filter yearly. My manual says to set top rpm to 3000. Should I also replace the cam if I replace governor.
I would concentrate more on the idle circuit of your carb. even though it may be new, they are made to run so lean, that they just don't get enough gas
It was the carb. The solenoid was going in and out but clicked. Anyway, had to replace carb. Bought carb for $30 and it had a bad solenoid. Bought a more expensive one and it works. I opened up the ide jet from .40mm to .45 mm and it helped a lot. These do run lean.
Great video! 👍 It looks like just a little bend on the arm is more than enough? I have two lawn tractors from the 90's with Briggs & Stratton engines with the same type of governor, one is 10 hp and the other one is 13 hp. Do you know what the rpm should be on these engines? One of my engines runs high enough but not the other one so i should check this out thanks to your video.
I have the exact same engine in my lawn tractor. I replaced the intake, 3rd carb!, all filters and the rpm still goes up and down and up and down. I tried to ajust the governor and catb but now it runs rough. Any suggestions?
Hi, the up an down is usually a lean condition in the idle circut of the carb. By now you should have had a good carb. The running rough maybe due to the choke not opening all the way. Make sure you have the sprimg on the rod going to the throttle arm on the carb. Possibly you have a worn.out cam. Take off the valve cover and check the valve adjustments. Also turn the engine over by hand, easier with spark plug removed. While turning, pay attention to the rocker arms. Watch for the valve lift. Make sure the valves are opening far enough. I ha e seen where a cam.lobe wears out and the valve will barely open.
technically it should go a specific direction. but it will filter and flow in either direction. that is how it was when I got it. considering all the other things I found wrong, it is probably backwards.
It is correctly installed. The fuel flows from the outside through the filtering media and out from there. If installed in the other direction, you wouldn't be able to see the crap that is getting filtered because it would be inside the filtering media.
Yes, if you remove the plug and insert a screwdriver, and then rotate the crankshaft, you should see the piston move thr screwdriver. If the screwdriver does not move, then the liston is not connected to the crank. Likely broken connecting rod.
@@ridingmowerking It seems that in this model, the valves are behind to the spark plug. However, I think they should also move. I will open the engine to see what is in it. Thank you
My question is cause i have the same setup but those arms are abit Loose ow a little wobbly when moving the trottle back and forth between high and low would i need to replace that so it moves as smooth as yours or is there an adjustment that can tighten it back up so it works like new
The rod going to the carb may have a little rotational movement, but should not be sloppy loose in the holes on either end. There is also a spring around the rod to take out any play.
Yes, that's what has always been in my head, used to be on the tune-up label on the older engines. Best source is probable the owners manual for the individual machine.
Hello I followed your video, but I still haven't fully understood how the accelerator works. The translation into French is laborious and painful. I can't get the carburetor throttle on the accelerator by operating the throttle, qui_ works perfectly. I changed the spring on the "plate", but nothing helped, no action on the carburettor throttle flap. I wonder if a part, a rod, a pusher, is missing, which would push this throttle valve flap of the carburetor, I don't understand. The engine is idling, but I don't know how to accelerate. Can you help me? Thank you
Ok, you need to make sure that the governor lever can move by hand. You should be able to move the throttle and governor lever even when engine is not running. Sounds like your governor static adjust may need to be adjusted. I do not have a video about that. Check someone like @taryl fixes all
@@ridingmowerking Thank you! Your answer is very likely. I know how to accelerate by manually moving the regulator rod, the flap at the carburetor moves correctly. On the other hand, when I operate the throttle, engine stopped, the accelerator flap hardly moves. I followed your advice, I made sure that the spring was tighter by twisting the leg a little. There is a slight improvement, in rabbit position (fast), the engine is only at about 2500 rpm or less, but it's enough to mow.
Great, you should make sure that the throttle on the carb can open all the way, look inside to makr sure it opens all the way, if not there may be something bent on the top plate keeping it from going all the way. The other reason is that the governor lever is out of adjustment.
@@ridingmowerking Thank you very much. I'm going to be satisfied with this result. I don't have full power, but it's more than enough, and at least I don't risk tightening the engine. The carburetor flap can give the maximum, but it seems to be limited by the lever. I gained a few laps, I must be at almost 2700 rpm, I don't need more. Thank you again very much.
Maybe your governor lever is loose on the shaft coming out of the engine. When it is running the governor arm will be trying to close the throttle on the carburetor. Could be that the throttle plate is sticking. I did a video about a sticking throttle on a new carb. Maybe check that out.
Then what would the approved method be, good sir? After thinking about it (not even seen his method yet) I can think of three ways to adjust a governor. 1. Stretch spring past plastic deformity, or cut... 2. Bend the spring tab 3. Adjust the governor linkages. He just got to his method and he decided to bend the tab, I think that's the easiest. Maybe this isn't the way a Briggs and Stratton engineer might do it, however as a normal consumer I think this video is great. He even mentioned that setting the RPMs too high would shorten the life of the mower. Great video, sir! This is good information for anyone willing to do just a little maintenance and repair on their own things, like everyone should. Thanks 😊
this method is actually to adjust the top speed, not to set the governor linkage. if the governor was apart, then that is a whole different procedure. I do actually know the difference. thanks for the comment.
My RPM stay high and for some reason it will shout off if I move throttle down a little bit, even and adjusting throttle cable. I could be bending down governor?
@@doradodelsol Hi, If you cannot control the speed as you say, then that might require a static adjustment or reset of the governor arm. this video is not for that. There are great videos of that procedure, www.youtube.com/@TarylFixesAll is my recommendation
Great information. Mine was set to 2200 rpm from the factory. I wanted to bring it up to 3400. My ZTs I set to 3500.
Hi, I looked up some general briggs specs and there was a range. From about 3200 to almost 3700 depending on size and application.
Awesome video! You were straight to the point and had very good camera angles with detailed instructions. I may have to reopen my briggs v twin after just rebuilding it. The governor arm will not adjust. It is stuck in full throttle. I suspect the governor weights broke when i started it up. The 1/4in governor shaft hexhead is whats stuck, and cant be adusted. Lets see what happens...
good luck, yes that shaft should move freely when there is no linkage hooked to it.
Go to TH-camsTH-cam's "Tyral Fixes All" / setBriggs and Stratton v-twin governor. He'll show you how to do it quickly and easily. Hope this helps.
As an electrical engineer I can say that the device reading your RPMs should most deffinitely be wrapped around the wire. The wrapping allows for more coupling between the two wires and hugher currents to flow. The unit you yave is just a simple pulse counter and IMHO if its giving you reasonable numbers (not saying 10k RPM or 138RPM) then I would think it should be fairly accurate. I would guess within 10% or so of reality.
Great video! I have always messed with the spring to adjust the tension. Either cutting it or stretching it past plastic deformation. The tab method is probably easier.
This was my first time with this type of meter. Wrapping around the wire was the key to a more consistent reading. I'm sure I will grow to trust it more with use. Most small engines will have an attachment point for the spring that can be adjusted to change top rpm.
Great video thx much. I came to the same procedure myself after an hour. Wish i saw your video earlier. Well done!
Thank you, hope it helped
Thank you for this explanation...
You are welcome, hope it helps make sense about what actually goes on with controlling engine speed.
I can see you really know your stuff. I'm having problems with a B&s 14.5 i/c quiet OHV 287707-1279 E1. Flames came from exhaust after running about an hrs. Exhaust starts glowing hot. Clearly overheating. Black smoke on startup and black around exhaust holes. Runs up and down when under load. On a Dixon 3014 ztr. New air filter and spark plug, never had a gas filter. I didn't check spark plug gap before installing. With the excess heat, I'm thinking to much gas or not enough air, making Rich. No gas smell from exhaust however. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Hi, black around exhaust usually means it's getting too much gas. choke may be partially closed. float may be too high. also flames could mean that exhaust valve needs to be adjusted. if exhaust valve is just slightly open during combustion you will get very hot exhaust gas leaking through. Make sure the spark plug is the correct one. There are a lot of possibilities.
Thank you for taking time to explain working
behind throttle plate, Very Nice video
Great Job!.
New Toy is COOL,
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video! Very detailed, good explanation!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the video.
You are welcome!
Nice video. Thanks for sharing
My 2012 420cc B&S surges up and down. I replaced the carb and coil. No change. Then I noticed the governor arm swings back and forth when engine is running. Valves working properly and compression at spec. I'm thinking to convert the throttle to manual operation and leave the choke mechanism the same.
Replacing the governor requires buying the entire bottom of the case and is quite expensive. Is there somewhere I can just buy the governor/gear and bottom seal? This is used for a small yard and really doesn't have that many hours on it. I change the oil and filter yearly. My manual says to set top rpm to 3000. Should I also replace the cam if I replace governor.
I would concentrate more on the idle circuit of your carb. even though it may be new, they are made to run so lean, that they just don't get enough gas
@@ridingmowerking Thanx
It was the carb. The solenoid was going in and out but clicked. Anyway, had to replace carb. Bought carb for $30 and it had a bad solenoid. Bought a more expensive one and it works. I opened up the ide jet from .40mm to .45 mm and it helped a lot. These do run lean.
Just found ur channel mate I enjoyed watching 👀 keep it up please
Thank you, just getting started with the video part. Hope to grow
Thank you
Great video! 👍 It looks like just a little bend on the arm is more than enough? I have two lawn tractors from the 90's with Briggs & Stratton engines with the same type of governor, one is 10 hp and the other one is 13 hp. Do you know what the rpm should be on these engines? One of my engines runs high enough but not the other one so i should check this out thanks to your video.
around 3600 is the max, a little lower is better, your connecting right will thank you.
My bad I meant 2700 from factory.
very good video. Thank you for you job.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! Thank you for your support!
Top video. Thank you
Glad you liked it!
Very useful video. Very well explained. Thabk you for your help. Regards
Thank, I hope it was a help for you.
I set them at 32 or 3225
Seems that’s plenty 😊😊
There are actually different specs depending on application.
That’s a good video Thank you so much
Glad you enjoyed it
I have the exact same engine in my lawn tractor. I replaced the intake, 3rd carb!, all filters and the rpm still goes up and down and up and down. I tried to ajust the governor and catb but now it runs rough. Any suggestions?
Hi, the up an down is usually a lean condition in the idle circut of the carb. By now you should have had a good carb. The running rough maybe due to the choke not opening all the way. Make sure you have the sprimg on the rod going to the throttle arm on the carb. Possibly you have a worn.out cam. Take off the valve cover and check the valve adjustments. Also turn the engine over by hand, easier with spark plug removed. While turning, pay attention to the rocker arms. Watch for the valve lift. Make sure the valves are opening far enough. I ha e seen where a cam.lobe wears out and the valve will barely open.
Not a mechanic, but is your fuel filter on backwards? Maybe it doesn't matter, but I think mine is installed the other way.😊
technically it should go a specific direction. but it will filter and flow in either direction. that is how it was when I got it. considering all the other things I found wrong, it is probably backwards.
I did a video on repairing the sticking choke also,
It is correctly installed. The fuel flows from the outside through the filtering media and out from there. If installed in the other direction, you wouldn't be able to see the crap that is getting filtered because it would be inside the filtering media.
Question, if you remove the spark plug, shouldn't the piston move inside? I have an 8 hp one, it has gas, it has a spark but it doesn't start.
Yes, if you remove the plug and insert a screwdriver, and then rotate the crankshaft, you should see the piston move thr screwdriver. If the screwdriver does not move, then the liston is not connected to the crank. Likely broken connecting rod.
@@ridingmowerking It seems that in this model, the valves are behind to the spark plug. However, I think they should also move. I will open the engine to see what is in it. Thank you
Mine idles way to high and backfires if i bent it down would it slow the idle and make it run better?
Bending the lever is really to adjust the top speed, not idle speed. There is a screw to adjust idle speed.
My question is cause i have the same setup but those arms are abit Loose ow a little wobbly when moving the trottle back and forth between high and low would i need to replace that so it moves as smooth as yours or is there an adjustment that can tighten it back up so it works like new
The rod going to the carb may have a little rotational movement, but should not be sloppy loose in the holes on either end. There is also a spring around the rod to take out any play.
@ridingmowerking ok so pretty much much need new springs and the screw with the spring needs to adjusted and make sure all components are there.
Most small engines run at 3600 full speed.
Yes, that's what has always been in my head, used to be on the tune-up label on the older engines. Best source is probable the owners manual for the individual machine.
Really 3000/3100 is plenty 😊
Hello I followed your video, but I still haven't fully understood how the accelerator works. The translation into French is laborious and painful. I can't get the carburetor throttle on the accelerator by operating the throttle, qui_ works perfectly. I changed the spring on the "plate", but nothing helped, no action on the carburettor throttle flap. I wonder if a part, a rod, a pusher, is missing, which would push this throttle valve flap of the carburetor, I don't understand. The engine is idling, but I don't know how to accelerate. Can you help me? Thank you
Ok, you need to make sure that the governor lever can move by hand. You should be able to move the throttle and governor lever even when engine is not running. Sounds like your governor static adjust may need to be adjusted. I do not have a video about that. Check someone like @taryl fixes all
@@ridingmowerking Thank you! Your answer is very likely. I know how to accelerate by manually moving the regulator rod, the flap at the carburetor moves correctly. On the other hand, when I operate the throttle, engine stopped, the accelerator flap hardly moves. I followed your advice, I made sure that the spring was tighter by twisting the leg a little. There is a slight improvement, in rabbit position (fast), the engine is only at about 2500 rpm or less, but it's enough to mow.
Great, you should make sure that the throttle on the carb can open all the way, look inside to makr sure it opens all the way, if not there may be something bent on the top plate keeping it from going all the way. The other reason is that the governor lever is out of adjustment.
@@ridingmowerking Thank you very much. I'm going to be satisfied with this result. I don't have full power, but it's more than enough, and at least I don't risk tightening the engine. The carburetor flap can give the maximum, but it seems to be limited by the lever. I gained a few laps, I must be at almost 2700 rpm, I don't need more. Thank you again very much.
mine is broke i think rpm just keeps climbing any way to fix it?
Maybe your governor lever is loose on the shaft coming out of the engine. When it is running the governor arm will be trying to close the throttle on the carburetor. Could be that the throttle plate is sticking. I did a video about a sticking throttle on a new carb. Maybe check that out.
@@ridingmowerking thanks I’ll check it out
That cheap plastic peace is AllWAYS breaking when it gets 10 years old 😢😢😢
Not a problem on newer engines, many don't make it 10 years.
What's it called? The piece?
thats not the correct way to adjust the governor
Et c'est quoi la bonne ?
Then what would the approved method be, good sir?
After thinking about it (not even seen his method yet) I can think of three ways to adjust a governor.
1. Stretch spring past plastic deformity, or cut...
2. Bend the spring tab
3. Adjust the governor linkages.
He just got to his method and he decided to bend the tab, I think that's the easiest. Maybe this isn't the way a Briggs and Stratton engineer might do it, however as a normal consumer I think this video is great. He even mentioned that setting the RPMs too high would shorten the life of the mower.
Great video, sir! This is good information for anyone willing to do just a little maintenance and repair on their own things, like everyone should.
Thanks 😊
this method is actually to adjust the top speed, not to set the governor linkage. if the governor was apart, then that is a whole different procedure. I do actually know the difference. thanks for the comment.
My RPM stay high and for some reason it will shout off if I move throttle down a little bit, even and adjusting throttle cable. I could be bending down governor?
@@doradodelsol Hi, If you cannot control the speed as you say, then that might require a static adjustment or reset of the governor arm. this video is not for that. There are great videos of that procedure, www.youtube.com/@TarylFixesAll is my recommendation
Sounds terrible.
Mixture screw was also out of adjustment