The first 2 things i check for with most mowers , is spark and compression. If it has those, then its usually fuel. Carburetor, or fuel pump, or other problems. Like clogged fuel tank/lines
Great vid. I would have taken the time to run a piece of heat shrink over the bad spot on the kill wire and crimp a new terminal on the end. Open insulation will lead to corrosion and future issues.
www.rcpw.com/rotary-16740-spark-checkr-ignition-tester-for-ign-engines/ on backorder I believe. I get them f4om Rotary but they usually are only available once a year for the last few years
Thank you so much for the knowledge! Im just starting to work on one with a carb issue, but I don't think it's the carb. Customer said it's dirty so I pulled it off and nope. So i pulled out a plug and it was wet and I knew thwn. It got dark yesterday and now I feel a lot better knowing what to look for exactly. I had a good feeling it was not firing though... 👍🏻 Thanks again
Glad to help! None of it is super difficult once you do it for a while. Always do your own diagnostics instead of listening to what the customer has to say is something I learned fast. Wasted a lot of time tracing down issues customers said they checked. If they knew what was wrong they wouldn't have brought it to you. I wish you the best, reach out if you need additional help
Great video. was all set to change the carb on our D 140. But I watched this video and found out the left hand coil was bad, no soot on the spark plug. I used a VOM and it confirmed it. Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Had the same problem and found that the fuel line from the tank to the carb was plugged. I also found the rubber pulse hose going to the fuel pump was restricted. Runs great now!
I had tne same problem. It was a clogged jet in the right side of the 2 barrel carburetor (as viewed from the front). I found it by removing the air filter and spraying carb clean into the carburetor, one side then the other.
Thanks so much. It's exactly what was wrong with my twin cylinder. I was ready to take it to the shop and then I watch this video Shirin up one of my cylinders isn't firing order the coil and should be back in business in no time. Thanks a million
I have the 20hp engine like this one. Mine is giving me problems with not starting after it shut off on me while mowing. When my compression tester comes ill test compression. What psi range is acceptable for an engine like this? I cant seem to find that information anywhere.
They do not publicly say what a good compression is on these engines, just that they should not very from one to the other more than 25%. Normally on engines like this I see 100-125 psi long as the engine is spinning fast enough for the compression release to disengage. Otherwise you usually only get 45-65 psi. A leakdown test performs much more accurately
Thanks! I’ve been trouble shooting my E150, and I was about to just shoot it. After watching your video, I pulled one spark plug cable off and it’s started right up!
Excellent video! I have a Cub Cadet Z-Force 60 with a Kohler KT740 engine. Starting last fall, I would lose power intermittently. I noticed my gas cap had spun off a couple of times when mowing under evergreen trees. Looked like some debris got into gas tank. This spring I took the tank off and flushed it out completely. Blew out gas lines and replaced the fuel filter. It seemed to run better but then started losing power intermittently again. I also replaced the choke cable as the old one was sticking. I replaced the fuel pump and thought I'd fixed it again. No good. Ran good for a day then acted up again next day. Seems to be ok in idle but when I engage the mower deck engine slows down and won't have enough power to cut grass. Yesterday, I took off the cover over the engine and saw a lot of packed grass and debris over the top of the engine. I used an air compressor and blew out what I could. There was quite a bit of dried oil residue so I sprayed it with engine degreaser and then hosed it off. After that it wouldn't start. Won't crank. Maybe I got something wet I shouldn't have? I used air compressor to dry it off. I'm not an experienced mechanic. Do what I can. The battery hasn't been the strongest so I'm going to replace it today and see if it will start. I suspect I may have a bad coil as well.
I was able to get it started yesterday. It still runs a little weak at times. Doesn't seem to have power and almost dies when deck engaged most of the time. I'm replacing the battery today which should improve starting. Just can't figure out why it doesn't run full power with deck engaged.
I just wanted to say thanks for the video, had a twin that was bogging down in the tall grass and was able to run through this progression to narrow it down to the valves on one side, one of them had come off completely. Got it all put back together and running like a champ, thank!
I think I'd check/adjust valves clearance, since took them out, check spark plug gap too. Found that file folder paper is right in the middle of the spec. for coil gap and don't care what B&S says, I sand & use P B Blaster to prevent magnets from corrosion.
My John Deere F7 25 start running poorly under load. Watching your video solve my problem I had one arc plug not firing. It was an easy fix though. One of the wires came off my coil. But thank you for alerting me about the power loss due to it running on one cylinder.
I'll have to test the new coils i just put on the old ones are still good so im gonna save those. one was missing half the plug wire is why i replaced mine so i have 2 of the same coils on the engine starts up just fine it did with the old coils to But cylinder 2 was dirtier than cylinder 1 from the looks of my left plug it was greasy dirty but cylinder 1 did have the regular burn on the plug also i seen someone had used vehicle spark plugs in the mower engine instead of regular plugs made for mowers they used high mileage plugs in mine. I need a new rubber tube on the right side ohv cover for now a gas filter is what i have connected to it then from their to the gas pump the gas filters just acting as a connector piece And i patched the air filter tube hose with a smear of rtv and that plastic piece the carburetor is screwed to was warped in the middle on top even with new gaskets on still warped so i put some rtv on its gap on top from the plastic being warped from surrounded by heat i guess the gaps sealed now. I have bought new plugs that were already cracked so for some people it can be a spark plug problem and not a coil on the cracked plug the only way i seen it was because some oil spilled on it and i seen the glass part was cracked
Great tip on the spark plugs being cracked. Drop them once and toss them instead of trying to use even if you don't see a crack. I hope you get it all fixed up good
@@IndRepair it is it has been works good on the older red briggs 2 cylinder engine. But my newer one like yours has the right plugs in it now seems like the other people would have seen that the screw thread on the vehicle spark plugs were to long for the mower engine if those worked for them i don't see how and how gummed up cylinder ones spark plug was And the carburetor bowl solenoid was gummy i cleaned the old one good old piece works but that'll be another spare part i put new stuff on the engine i didn't wanna chance using that old piece i need to power the carburetor bowl solenoid a different way and unhook it from the rectifier cause its alot different hooking stuff up with no wiring harness and no ignition
top video, I am in the process of chasing the same issue, paid a ton of money at the Toro dealership and still the same. I have put two new coils and plugs in and no joy, I suppose valves are the next stop. I wish I had seen your video before as I probably would have saved myself quite a bit of time and money.
@@IndRepair just a question, I have been searching for a spark tester like the one you are using, no joy. I have an inline one with flashing bulb type but would like to get one like yours. Can you please give me some details
Go to trillww.com and fill out a contact form. They said they had a handful still in stock last time I checked. Nobody else selling them that I can find. I ordered a couple more last month just to have backups! Best tester I have found!
I’m just a woman and you made it look so easy I think I can do this but take alot longer doing it. Thank you for your knowledge! I feel educated on this problem. You’re awesome!
My friend just disassemble it take your time no rush then put it back together at your pace, then if your keen do it again by the second or third time you'll be on your way piece of cake their friend ok kapai
Hi, I have a Ariens YT2548 ( 936036 ) ... it loses power after the 1st attempt to start the motor. Will not turn over and dies instantly almost. Bettery still has 12.4 volts. New solenoid, fuel filter, oil changed, spark plugs... oh lastly my fuel filter barely has any fuel in it now. PLEASE HELP
I would first get the battery tested or measure voltage drop when trying to start this first time. Could be simple as a battery with a bad cell. Next check all of the connections and make sure they are fully tight. A loose connection on the battery, solenoid or ground wire will cause you to loose the connection also
I problably have to change the ignition coil !! The problem I have is when I start last week aerator my yard the mower start normal but in some point I can't even pull my aerator and I loss the power at all still turns but I can't move what do you think would be ?
i also have been doing this for a long time some things could have been or figured quicker but good video i have a good amount of spark testers i like the one you have how can i find that one
Many different ways to test for things but depends on where you start. Not sure where they sell them anymore. Someone bought the patent after the original company went out of business and now having a hard time getting stock because of the chips from what I understand.
I have spark on both plugs turns off when i pull the wire on the left spark plug.I have compression and everything in the valve cover looks good.Any help would be appreciated.
I have a JD X370 that is only firing on one cylinder....took apart and found a mouse house and a badly chewed wire....taped up wire and replaced coil...still no fire on that side....question ....can I pull wire from coil and try to crank...will this verify bad wiring and run??? I will pull plug from carb and put zip ties on spark plug wires before cranking so I can kill it if it does fire....Thanks in advance!!!
Yes, you can unplug kill wire and see if you get spark then on the Kawasaki FR651V if that is what you have on this mower. This will tell you if there is wiring grounding out somewhere or another wiring issue. Be safe as you described, you can pull plugs and hold against the block to visually verify spark also
Mowed with tractor then got off went n moved trailer to mow under it got back on engaged blades an tractor stalled wat should I look at? , I had peace of cardboard in the seat sensor bec it shut off before when mowing an did it alot was annoying thk u love ur help
I did what you said. It fired up on each side after disconnecting plug. However, when throttling up ( it started but when adding power) on the left side, it stopped. Is this a coil problem??
was sold a "fully serviced" Toro lx 500. Well it bogs to the point it wont move, has a whining sound & then the gas peddle goes limp with no spring back. . I could smell belt , or something of a similar at one time as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Great video! However i have an L100 19 horse single cylinder. It runs good until under load. We use it in our field and going through tall grass under load it misses. Any ideas? Thanks
From small engine distributor we frequently use. Have been around for year but they have been hard to find for a while now. Spark Check'r is what the currently are sold under
If both will not run independently, check out bad side valves and push rods. Make sure the piston is actually going up/down because connecting rod could be bad also and disconnected from the crankshaft..
@@Rcaceres Nice! Isee it 10-15 times every year, clogged there not letting it vent. I also see clogs from the fuel lines collapsing on themselves or debris restricting flow any turn or change in diameter is common too! Thanks for watching!
Does engine speed seem ok? How does it run? Is it spitting and sputtering? How is the oil level? No fuel smell in the oil? Get smoking coming out of dipstick after running?
It runs good, no sputtering or spitting..oil level good... Checking on availability of the points, here in Trinidad...so I hope to change them because I have already changed the plug,which was ok,and the air filter, which needed changing...so I'll keep you updated...thanks a lot for responding...🤞🏼👊🏽🤝🏼🙏🏼
I hope you checked valves on dead cylinder. It sounded pretty rattley. I've had the push rods bent when valves get too loose. I had a push rod dislocate on a very new mower where it apparently had not been installed properly from the factory.
We did a full service and valve adjustment before returning this to the customer. Definitely needs done for best results. Sometimes customers will not want to pay the additional for this service
Have a question for you. Have a la 175 john Deere, it is very badly over fueling. had issues with spark installed new coils, took float apart, everything looks clear, took air filter out makes no difference. Its hard to start, smokes worse then a prostock diesel. If i pinch the fuel line off for 30 seconds it will clean up and run perfectly, until you adjust the throttle at all or put in under any load , then it just coughs and spits and smokes and dies and wont start. Getting frustrated as it what is causing it, it started it all of a sudden. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
@@IndRepair very slightly. But not a lot, oil level hasn't gained. Had this problem since September last year, just been tinkering trying to get it running.
@@keltonwright7 Carburetor issue it sounds like has anything else been checked? Both cylinders are running independently? Were OEM coils used? Could have blown head gaskets also
Off topic but I noticed there is not much fuel in fuel filter is this normal. I have a z335e that doesn't have much fuel in it just wondering if this is normal
Good video, no bla bla bla, or distractions like kids and animals running around. Straight and to the point. However, i think you may have missed putting the 2, 1/4" screws back in the housing by the air filter. Thanks for the video.
I find it interesting that you would not consider that excessive rust and corrosion affecting coil performance. I have to disagree with this opinion. I think you might want to reconsider this opinion. Think about it this way: a failing spark plug will produce an ever increasing resistance... when a failing spark plug...especially a spark plug that has too wear and corrosion, this creates a situation where the coil must produce more and more energy to fire that plug...and yes, the coil WILL increase more energy proportional to the resistance load of the plug. Thus the LIFE of the coil is reduced from this resistance over time. Likewise, excessive rust AND a bad or poor connections from corrosion and contamination of the mating surface of the iron body to the engine flanges (which provides a ground path) will also produce a decrease in available energy to the coil...the coil will not perform properly.a...and in that situation, the coil can never produce enough energy to fire the plug. So when you think about this from a life cycle perspective...yes, you would want to remove the rust from all magnetic field surfaces and also remove rust from all grounding mating surfaces. This produces the ideal conditions of dependable, consistent long life of a coil. A good rust free magnetic field and a properly gapped spark plug that has no excessive contamination. Cleaning plugs should be a routine maintenance and resetting gap when they wear. Likewise, it is a good practice to clean the rust off the magnet and coil surfaces...and on the ground mating surfaces. If you think about why you would want to clean the air filter and replace the oil is a good analogy for why you want to best possible electrical condition for the ignition system. It's a good maintenance practice. It extends the life of the ignition system. now on the issue of the kill switch wire:: the kill switch wires provides a function that is more involved than just a kill power switch to the coil to stop coil energy. The kill switch circuit is connected to an internal diodes within each of the two coils. technically because of this feature, they are actually called ignition modules. These internal diodes prevents cross fire between the two coils! This black wire circuit is SHARED between the two coils and provides a common ground to this anti cross fire diode protected circuit. If one of the black wires IS FRAYED, and grounds out to the engine or if the wire cannot carry a consistent voltage this defeats the diode from protecting against cross fire. And in this engine, clearly that is the case. The insulation is damaged because it has chaffed against the cylinder cooling fins! And likely grounds out there. I suspect what has happened is that cross fire did happen, and then eventually the coil failed because of it this anti cross fire circuit is grounding out directly to the engine! Again for emphasis, these coils depend on that anti back feed by using that circuit to ONLY be connected to the internal diode! On my machine these kill switch connectors have insulated sleeves to prevent grounding anywhere else! On this engine you are working on, it does not appear there is any insulating connectors for that protection. So that is just another point of failure that can happen from debris and dust and moisture..and yes, rust debris. The point is that if this anti back fire circuit is not electrically correct, then cross talk will happen. It may be imperceptible to the ear as the power can be very subtle as it crosses from one coil to the other through the engine ground ....but it all adds up to poor engine performance and eventually this will lead to premature coil failure. In my opinion that back wire that is frayed and obviously chafing against the cylinder fins is probably the reason for THAT ONE COIL to go bad. Just as a failing plug or damaged plug wire will cause excessive resistance to the coil and cause premature coil failure, the same can occur when the internal diodes to these coils is bypassed through a short to ground from a kill switch wire that is frayed and grounds to the engine...causing cross fire...then failure over time. these coils are only designed to carry voltage and step it up in one direction...and obviously there is timing ....the diode can only prevent that if that kill switch circuit is well insulated and properly connected. my suggestion is to reconsider your opinion....clean the rust and extend the life of the coils, plug wires and plug. Repair the frayed insulation from the kill switch wire to prevent premature internal anti-cross fire diode failure and put a proper insulated connector on it to prevent contamination/resistance/corrosion or possible grounding to engine. just my two pennies. (avionics tech...boeing and airbus...and a few decades modifying poorly designed farm and ag machines) God Bless America
Excessive rust is extreme, had a little surface rust and the magnetic field of a magnet will not be affected by this. The wire was not frayed, insulation was barely nicked. Non insulating connectors is standard from the factory and the way they are designed. Voltage does not leak to air. Engine ground argument is void because a new coil was put on and the metal it secures to did not have any rust as it was the mating surface of the coil...thanks for watching and for your input!
@@IndRepair perhaps this will help convince you that the damaged kill wire circuit that is obviously grounding to the cylinder fin is the cause of ignition module failure..the surging and hard to start and poor spark performance can all be explained when watching this simple explanation of how an ignition module actually works..by design...but what can happen when the kill switch wire makes contact to the engine ground.. (again, it's important to understand that this black wire kill switch circuit acts also as an essential element of the anti cross fire diode architecture and not just as a circuit that stops the coil from producing electrical energy to the spark plug.) I hope you find this helpful. It's not a well known and understood design, but this video illustrates the design quite well and also shows what can happen when a fault occurs in that important circuit. (now for bonus points: why do points and contacts style coils NOT need a anti cross fire diode protection? understanding why the old school coils do not require is also helpful to understand the evolution of ignition system transformers! Yes, it's the deep dive..but it's quite interesting and helpful when trying to understand how cross fire happens in design involving solid state TWIN coil implementations) th-cam.com/video/lEYO7hNTeR0/w-d-xo.html
@@tdmmcl1532 you're getting lost in unnecessary deep details. He's not denying the kill wire may not have contributed to coil wear, only that it's fixed now. No need to go off the deep end of ignition system evolution, that's engineer-mental-illness. Just fix the damaged kill wire. Simple, easy, done.
Only place I find them online is rcpw.com I am not sure they have them in stock or not but says ships in 5 to 7 days. From my distributor they say they are not making them in 2022 because of the inability to get computer chips. Spc-7200 is the updated part number
I have seen about 15 machines in the last year from the same dealer that the diagnosis is not adding up to what is actually going on. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for watching! I do not have a link for the tester. They just came back in stock this year through our distributor and we got 2 of the 3 we ordered then backorder it has been since. I have paid up to $100 for one of these when the original company went out of business. Spark Check'r SPC-7200 is what they now are called
@@IndRepair That was the issue! New ignition coil and boom! Back to full power. Just wanted to know you saved me a ton of money and the satisfaction of fixing my own tractor. Thank you!!!
Sure enough, this was the symptom on my mower! I never would have thought that the mower would run on one cylinder, but sure enough it does (I switched plugs L and R just to confirm it was not the plug). So this was the cause of the low power: my mower really idled down when engaging the blade, and didn't have the power to go through wet grass. Totally different from last year. Without seeing it in this video I may never had even thought that it was possible.
We narrowed it down to the spark plug or the coil. The plug looked new but sometimes they come bad or have a crack in them. We wanted to ensure the coil was bad before replacing it
If I may, one question? I have spark on both. Remove one plug wire while running and the other plug runs the engine real smooth with no more surging. Replace wire and remove the other, THAT plug runs the engine real smooth with no more surging. Put that second wire back, runs rough and surges. What’s common between the two that is struggling?
@@IndRepair My thoughts too, from my experience and what I’ve researched. So I did pull that off the block and carefully inspect. Zero discoloration, zero dirt, and all the gaskets look shiny and pliable. So, putting everything back together, new fuel, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, drained and blew out all the fuel lines (finding nothing but clean fuel) and tried again. Same issue. Fuel pump?
@@IndRepair yes. And the surging stops at high throttle yet the engine runs a bit rough. ALL this happened overnight, after I ran the gas tank dry. New, fresh “boat” gas (no alcohol as my usual) and now this. Wondering if I hosed the fuel pump?
www.trillww.com/contact send in a form or call the number on the site. They say they have a handful left. I got mine in the other day after reaching out!
I have a z525, same engine but 24 hp, today I was cutting just out of the blue it's sputtered to a stop and cut off and runs really bad, thinking it was gas I got it all out new fuel, and a tune up, same thing, engine even has a slight pop almost like a back fire, and idea what it could be?
If you run woth partial choke does it smooth out? Did you clean the carburetor out when you flushed the system? If the carburetor was removed, did you replace the intake gaskets?
@@IndRepair first thank you for responded, I did not touch the carb, that did cross my mind but wasn't to confident on messing with it, it has this same engine how would you recommend I clean the carb? I will try the half choke as well
It is the magnetic field that the coil uses to create the spark so normal surface rust will not impede this field in any way. The only possible issue is if there are very large pieces or chunks of rust on the magnet that make the coil gap closer or touching because they are so large. Normally only see something that rusted after many years sitting in a wet environment and the rest of the tractor is usually roached by then. Thanks for watching!
Your teachings are amazing; I am not a technician but seeing your videos aspires me and many others to learn from you. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. Thanks and God Bless.
If the spark plug is bad it will fix the issue. If it's not bad at least we know that is not the issue and have ruled it out. Always start small/simple and work one from there
Just swapped out the coil and spark plug. Still not starting if only that side is connected. Fires right up on other side. Air, fuel and oil filters changed. Oil changed. Carb removed and cleaned. What's next?
@@IndRepair, I got it started. Verified both sides/plugs/coils are working by starting each side with the other side unplugged. When I engaged the blades, I still had low power. Do you have a video explaining how to check the valves and push rods?
How does grass and dust on what I presume is the protruding edge of the crankcase gasket indicate that it hasn’t been changed? Wouldn’t they test the machine after servicing it? I know my local small engine shop mows their lawn with repaired mowers so they can see if everything is working properly. Doing that would probably add grass and dust to the gasket edge, right? Was there something else that led you to believe that; possibly what appears to be a factory gasket still in place?
I do not recall exactly when you are talking about in this video but I would think this buildup is a little different than just a 1 time mowing or test mow. It usually takes a long time for fine buildup/grass and normally gets almost an oily look to it over time even without a leak. Even after a year of mowing, most times the gasket still looks relatively clean and does not have a buildup around or on top of the gasket
Many dealerships don't test anything. I get mowers in all the time that we're misdiagnosed from John Deere. They told one guy he needed a new transmission but only had a bad idle pulley.. 900 vs 15 bucks..
Good video. Why though does every small engine repair person tell you to use either "XX"mm or "YY" std? 10mm is NOT 3/8. 3/8 is .375 10mm is .393. Use the correct tool for the job. If you don't have it get it. If you can't don't do the job. If your unwilling then pay somebody who is willing to use the correct tool.
Your a good man for teaching people how to fix there mowers free and explain very well step by step just like a trade school
Thank You’ll
I appreciate that! I always love to help! Thanks for watching!
The first 2 things i check for with most mowers , is spark and compression. If it has those, then its usually fuel. Carburetor, or fuel pump, or other problems. Like clogged fuel tank/lines
Definitely
Great vid. I would have taken the time to run a piece of heat shrink over the bad spot on the kill wire and crimp a new terminal on the end. Open insulation will lead to corrosion and future issues.
Better safe than sorry in all instances!
Thanks for the video. This was the exact issue on my mower and using your video, I was able to diagnose it and change the coil. Much appreciated.
Awesome! Great job! Thanks for watching!
Love the video! Where did you find the spark checker? I tried auto part store and harbor freight with no luck. Couldn’t even find it on amazon.
www.rcpw.com/rotary-16740-spark-checkr-ignition-tester-for-ign-engines/ on backorder I believe. I get them f4om Rotary but they usually are only available once a year for the last few years
Thank you so much for the knowledge! Im just starting to work on one with a carb issue, but I don't think it's the carb. Customer said it's dirty so I pulled it off and nope. So i pulled out a plug and it was wet and I knew thwn. It got dark yesterday and now I feel a lot better knowing what to look for exactly. I had a good feeling it was not firing though... 👍🏻 Thanks again
Glad to help! None of it is super difficult once you do it for a while. Always do your own diagnostics instead of listening to what the customer has to say is something I learned fast. Wasted a lot of time tracing down issues customers said they checked. If they knew what was wrong they wouldn't have brought it to you. I wish you the best, reach out if you need additional help
Great video. was all set to change the carb on our D 140. But I watched this video and found out the left hand coil was bad, no soot on the spark plug. I used a VOM and it confirmed it.
Thank You !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Had the same problem and found that the fuel line from the tank to the carb was plugged. I also found the rubber pulse hose going to the fuel pump was restricted. Runs great now!
Nice job! Thanks for watching!
I had tne same problem. It was a clogged jet in the right side of the 2 barrel carburetor (as viewed from the front). I found it by removing the air filter and spraying carb clean into the carburetor, one side then the other.
Good job! Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much. It's exactly what was wrong with my twin cylinder. I was ready to take it to the shop and then I watch this video Shirin up one of my cylinders isn't firing order the coil and should be back in business in no time. Thanks a million
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Great video man, you are a mower wizard!
Hey thanks for watching I appreciate it!!
Ha. I only needed to watch about 10 seconds of this video then looked down and noticed one of my plug wires fell out. Thanks!
Haha nice!!
I have the 20hp engine like this one. Mine is giving me problems with not starting after it shut off on me while mowing. When my compression tester comes ill test compression. What psi range is acceptable for an engine like this? I cant seem to find that information anywhere.
They do not publicly say what a good compression is on these engines, just that they should not very from one to the other more than 25%. Normally on engines like this I see 100-125 psi long as the engine is spinning fast enough for the compression release to disengage. Otherwise you usually only get 45-65 psi. A leakdown test performs much more accurately
Great video, thanks for posting it!
I appreciate that!
Thanks! I’ve been trouble shooting my E150, and I was about to just shoot it.
After watching your video, I pulled one spark plug cable off and it’s started right up!
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Would a faulty plug wire cause it to miss? While the engine is running I can feel the spark while it's still plugged in
Yeah, that or a split in the wire definitely can cause a miss
great video. You really know your stuff. I thought I.knew my mower pretty well. I had know idea where that coil was or how it worked.
Definitely takes a while to learn equipment if you are not around or operating it every day. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! I have a Cub Cadet Z-Force 60 with a Kohler KT740 engine. Starting last fall, I would lose power intermittently. I noticed my gas cap had spun off a couple of times when mowing under evergreen trees. Looked like some debris got into gas tank. This spring I took the tank off and flushed it out completely. Blew out gas lines and replaced the fuel filter. It seemed to run better but then started losing power intermittently again. I also replaced the choke cable as the old one was sticking. I replaced the fuel pump and thought I'd fixed it again. No good. Ran good for a day then acted up again next day. Seems to be ok in idle but when I engage the mower deck engine slows down and won't have enough power to cut grass. Yesterday, I took off the cover over the engine and saw a lot of packed grass and debris over the top of the engine. I used an air compressor and blew out what I could. There was quite a bit of dried oil residue so I sprayed it with engine degreaser and then hosed it off. After that it wouldn't start. Won't crank. Maybe I got something wet I shouldn't have? I used air compressor to dry it off. I'm not an experienced mechanic. Do what I can. The battery hasn't been the strongest so I'm going to replace it today and see if it will start. I suspect I may have a bad coil as well.
I would check the fuse and make sure connections are tight to begin with
Check the fuel pickup for debris could be the issue, I see it a lot
I was able to get it started yesterday. It still runs a little weak at times. Doesn't seem to have power and almost dies when deck engaged most of the time. I'm replacing the battery today which should improve starting. Just can't figure out why it doesn't run full power with deck engaged.
Running on one cylinder possibly? Run on each independently to see if both are working
@@IndRepair Yes, was running on one cylinder. I ordered two new coils. Hoping that is the last of my troubles!
I just wanted to say thanks for the video, had a twin that was bogging down in the tall grass and was able to run through this progression to narrow it down to the valves on one side, one of them had come off completely. Got it all put back together and running like a champ, thank!
Good job! Glad youu got it taken care of!! Thanks for watching!
I think I'd check/adjust valves clearance, since took them out, check spark plug gap too.
Found that file folder paper is right in the middle of the spec. for coil gap and don't care what B&S says, I sand & use P B Blaster to prevent magnets from corrosion.
My John Deere F7 25 start running poorly under load. Watching your video solve my problem I had one arc plug not firing. It was an easy fix though. One of the wires came off my coil. But thank you for alerting me about the power loss due to it running on one cylinder.
Nice job! Many times same diagnostics no matter the engine. Thanks for watching!
I'll have to test the new coils i just put on the old ones are still good so im gonna save those. one was missing half the plug wire is why i replaced mine so i have 2 of the same coils on the engine starts up just fine it did with the old coils to
But cylinder 2 was dirtier than cylinder 1 from the looks of my left plug it was greasy dirty but cylinder 1 did have the regular burn on the plug also i seen someone had used vehicle spark plugs in the mower engine instead of regular plugs made for mowers they used high mileage plugs in mine.
I need a new rubber tube on the right side ohv cover for now a gas filter is what i have connected to it then from their to the gas pump the gas filters just acting as a connector piece
And i patched the air filter tube hose with a smear of rtv and that plastic piece the carburetor is screwed to was warped in the middle on top even with new gaskets on still warped so i put some rtv on its gap on top from the plastic being warped from surrounded by heat i guess the gaps sealed now.
I have bought new plugs that were already cracked so for some people it can be a spark plug problem and not a coil on the cracked plug the only way i seen it was because some oil spilled on it and i seen the glass part was cracked
Great tip on the spark plugs being cracked. Drop them once and toss them instead of trying to use even if you don't see a crack. I hope you get it all fixed up good
@@IndRepair it is it has been works good on the older red briggs 2 cylinder engine. But my newer one like yours has the right plugs in it now seems like the other people would have seen that the screw thread on the vehicle spark plugs were to long for the mower engine if those worked for them i don't see how and how gummed up cylinder ones spark plug was
And the carburetor bowl solenoid was gummy i cleaned the old one good old piece works but that'll be another spare part i put new stuff on the engine i didn't wanna chance using that old piece i need to power the carburetor bowl solenoid a different way and unhook it from the rectifier cause its alot different hooking stuff up with no wiring harness and no ignition
Thank You for explaining the coils. Great video Just completed foloowing your advice and the John Deers is running much better. Bill Golden
Awesome job Bill! Thanks for watching!
You Sir are the Man. Ty
Thanks for watching!
Thank you Sir, very helpful. One of the best videos I have seen❤😊
Thanks for watching!!!
top video, I am in the process of chasing the same issue, paid a ton of money at the Toro dealership and still the same. I have put two new coils and plugs in and no joy, I suppose valves are the next stop. I wish I had seen your video before as I probably would have saved myself quite a bit of time and money.
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair just a question, I have been searching for a spark tester like the one you are using, no joy. I have an inline one with flashing bulb type but would like to get one like yours. Can you please give me some details
Go to trillww.com and fill out a contact form. They said they had a handful still in stock last time I checked. Nobody else selling them that I can find. I ordered a couple more last month just to have backups! Best tester I have found!
You said you needed to replace the PTO seal? Did you mean the main shaft seal in the pan?
Yes, the seal in the pan is called the PTO seal
I’m just a woman and you made it look so easy I think I can do this but take alot longer doing it. Thank you for your knowledge! I feel educated on this problem. You’re awesome!
So glad to help! You can do it!! Thanks for watching!
My friend just disassemble it take your time no rush then put it back together at your pace, then if your keen do it again by the second or third time you'll be on your way piece of cake their friend ok kapai
Great video. When did you plug the fuel cut off solenoid back on?
You will have to elaborate been a while since this was done, believe a bad coil was found don't remember unplugging fuel solenoid
Hi, I have a Ariens YT2548 ( 936036 ) ... it loses power after the 1st attempt to start the motor. Will not turn over and dies instantly almost. Bettery still has 12.4 volts. New solenoid, fuel filter, oil changed, spark plugs... oh lastly my fuel filter barely has any fuel in it now. PLEASE HELP
Also new key/ignition switch
I would first get the battery tested or measure voltage drop when trying to start this first time. Could be simple as a battery with a bad cell. Next check all of the connections and make sure they are fully tight. A loose connection on the battery, solenoid or ground wire will cause you to loose the connection also
@Individualized Repair All connections tight. I Checked wires too. Won't start with being jumped either
@@elitewayez1026 See what happens when you jump the solenoid posts together. Does the starter engage then?
I problably have to change the ignition coil !! The problem I have is when I start last week aerator my yard the mower start normal but in some point I can't even pull my aerator and I loss the power at all still turns but I can't move what do you think would be ?
Could be running on 1 cylinder, have blown head gaskets or a dirty carburetor for starters
i also have been doing this for a long time some things could have been or figured quicker but good video i have a good amount of spark testers i like the one you have how can i find that one
Many different ways to test for things but depends on where you start. Not sure where they sell them anymore. Someone bought the patent after the original company went out of business and now having a hard time getting stock because of the chips from what I understand.
Thank you!! This video helped me a lot man! Kudos to you sir!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
Where did you get your lift
You can find our review on the different ones we have and the place we purchased them in the description at th-cam.com/video/on-ZyoX1u4A/w-d-xo.html
I have spark on both plugs turns off when i pull the wire on the left spark plug.I have compression and everything in the valve cover looks good.Any help would be appreciated.
Pull the valve cover if one side does not run independently but has spark. Likely have a bent push rod, stuck valve or another valve trane issue
Thank you, I was ready to throw a match on my d140. Saved my day!!
Glad to help thanks for watching!
I have a JD X370 that is only firing on one cylinder....took apart and found a mouse house and a badly chewed wire....taped up wire and replaced coil...still no fire on that side....question ....can I pull wire from coil and try to crank...will this verify bad wiring and run??? I will pull plug from carb and put zip ties on spark plug wires before cranking so I can kill it if it does fire....Thanks in advance!!!
Yes, you can unplug kill wire and see if you get spark then on the Kawasaki FR651V if that is what you have on this mower. This will tell you if there is wiring grounding out somewhere or another wiring issue. Be safe as you described, you can pull plugs and hold against the block to visually verify spark also
I got a 1995 Wizard riding mower that still works like new nothing wrong with it!
There were some mowing issues in its life here and there but it still works great
That is awesome!!
We still get those Wizards in once in a while
@@IndRepair thanks, that is pretty good to hear lol that there are still a few out there
Mowed with tractor then got off went n moved trailer to mow under it got back on engaged blades an tractor stalled wat should I look at? , I had peace of cardboard in the seat sensor bec it shut off before when mowing an did it alot was annoying thk u love ur help
Take a look at the fuse first. If it is not restarting could be a bad charging system, battery or a safety switch
I did what you said. It fired up on each side after disconnecting plug. However, when throttling up ( it started but when adding power) on the left side, it stopped. Is this a coil problem??
I would probably do a compression or leakdown test on your cylinders
The rust actually stopped our mower from running, once when cleaned it fired right up.
Must have been a lot of rust on there
Thank you mean I'm very greatful!
Glad to help! Thanks for watching!
was sold a "fully serviced" Toro lx 500. Well it bogs to the point it wont move, has a whining sound & then the gas peddle goes limp with no spring back. . I could smell belt , or something of a similar at one time as well. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I would check the drive belt and idler pulleys to start with for sure
Great video! However i have an L100 19 horse single cylinder. It runs good until under load. We use it in our field and going through tall grass under load it misses. Any ideas? Thanks
Sounds like a carb issue off top. Check fuel quality, flow and for obstruction in carburetor
wow. I'd ahve guessed differant. Good video.
Thanks for watching!
Where did you get that spark checker- thats nice
From small engine distributor we frequently use. Have been around for year but they have been hard to find for a while now. Spark Check'r is what the currently are sold under
www.trillww.com/contact send in a contact form or maybe call. They say they have a handful in stock still. I just got mine the other day
I hope I can fix my mower with this video. I'm female 60 yrs old and on my own now.
It should help for sure! Let me know if you have questions!
@@IndRepair well yes, I don't know if each cylinder has its own coil and how to know what part number to order ?
I have a cub cadet with Kawasaki
@@helenachase5627 They sure are separate, if you find one is bad you look up based on the engine information on the side of the engine shroud
good work chief ....
Thanks for watching
What if your getting spark from both sides?
Both sides will run independently or just has spark on both sides
@@IndRepair thank you!
If both will not run independently, check out bad side valves and push rods. Make sure the piston is actually going up/down because connecting rod could be bad also and disconnected from the crankshaft..
@@IndRepair you won’t believe what it was…… cloged gas cap cover! The pin hole had a bunch of dirt in it!
@@Rcaceres Nice! Isee it 10-15 times every year, clogged there not letting it vent. I also see clogs from the fuel lines collapsing on themselves or debris restricting flow any turn or change in diameter is common too! Thanks for watching!
I had same issues with John deere L120 v-twin briggs and stratton . I changed both coils and spark plugs. It runs like new
Great job! Thanks for watching!
Really informative and helpful
Thank you for watching!
Swap the coils side to side and if the dead cylinder comes to life you've verified a bad coil.
Good way to do it there if you are not sure!
My d100 has only one plug,I changed the air filter, but still has a low power problem...don't know what else to do...
Does engine speed seem ok? How does it run? Is it spitting and sputtering? How is the oil level? No fuel smell in the oil? Get smoking coming out of dipstick after running?
It runs good, no sputtering or spitting..oil level good...
Checking on availability of the points, here in Trinidad...so I hope to change them because I have already changed the plug,which was ok,and the air filter, which needed changing...so I'll keep you updated...thanks a lot for responding...🤞🏼👊🏽🤝🏼🙏🏼
You are amazing! Love the video.
Thanks for watching!! I appreciate your words of encouragement and am glad to help!
I hope you checked valves on dead cylinder. It sounded pretty rattley. I've had the push rods bent when valves get too loose. I had a push rod dislocate on a very new mower where it apparently had not been installed properly from the factory.
We did a full service and valve adjustment before returning this to the customer. Definitely needs done for best results. Sometimes customers will not want to pay the additional for this service
Have a question for you. Have a la 175 john Deere, it is very badly over fueling. had issues with spark installed new coils, took float apart, everything looks clear, took air filter out makes no difference. Its hard to start, smokes worse then a prostock diesel. If i pinch the fuel line off for 30 seconds it will clean up and run perfectly, until you adjust the throttle at all or put in under any load , then it just coughs and spits and smokes and dies and wont start. Getting frustrated as it what is causing it, it started it all of a sudden. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sounds like the float may be sticking. Does the oil smell like gas?
@@IndRepair very slightly. But not a lot, oil level hasn't gained. Had this problem since September last year, just been tinkering trying to get it running.
Still seems like stuck float from here, especially since it clears up when you lower the fuel supply
@@IndRepair what would cause it to act up when engaging the blades? any slight load on the engine makes it act up.
@@keltonwright7 Carburetor issue it sounds like has anything else been checked? Both cylinders are running independently? Were OEM coils used? Could have blown head gaskets also
ya know someone would say it....a lil liquid elec tape on that open wire.....
Not sure which one you speak of but a little liquid electrical tape keeps things right much of the time. Thanks for watching!
Super clear for an inexperienced person like me. Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Off topic but I noticed there is not much fuel in fuel filter is this normal. I have a z335e that doesn't have much fuel in it just wondering if this is normal
It is normal sometimes there is air in the system and gets trapped in the filter
@@IndRepair thank you
Nice work, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Runandcutoff
Good video, no bla bla bla, or distractions like kids and animals running around. Straight and to the point. However, i think you may have missed putting the 2, 1/4" screws back in the housing by the air filter. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching! I put the screws back in about 18:27
@@IndRepair Sorry, missed it.
You didn't install the new spark plug wire down through the slot originally used.
Good eye! Long as it fits, reaches and is not pinched it is good
❤❤❤❤❤
Thanks for watching
I like to use a piece of 400 grit sandpaper folded once to space coils.
Awesome!
I'll bet that's what's wrong with mine
It happens so often!! Thanks for watching!!!
I find it interesting that you would not consider that excessive rust and corrosion affecting coil performance. I have to disagree with this opinion. I think you might want to reconsider this opinion. Think about it this way: a failing spark plug will produce an ever increasing resistance... when a failing spark plug...especially a spark plug that has too wear and corrosion, this creates a situation where the coil must produce more and more energy to fire that plug...and yes, the coil WILL increase more energy proportional to the resistance load of the plug. Thus the LIFE of the coil is reduced from this resistance over time. Likewise, excessive rust AND a bad or poor connections from corrosion and contamination of the mating surface of the iron body to the engine flanges (which provides a ground path) will also produce a decrease in available energy to the coil...the coil will not perform properly.a...and in that situation, the coil can never produce enough energy to fire the plug. So when you think about this from a life cycle perspective...yes, you would want to remove the rust from all magnetic field surfaces and also remove rust from all grounding mating surfaces. This produces the ideal conditions of dependable, consistent long life of a coil. A good rust free magnetic field and a properly gapped spark plug that has no excessive contamination. Cleaning plugs should be a routine maintenance and resetting gap when they wear. Likewise, it is a good practice to clean the rust off the magnet and coil surfaces...and on the ground mating surfaces. If you think about why you would want to clean the air filter and replace the oil is a good analogy for why you want to best possible electrical condition for the ignition system. It's a good maintenance practice. It extends the life of the ignition system.
now on the issue of the kill switch wire:: the kill switch wires provides a function that is more involved than just a kill power switch to the coil to stop coil energy. The kill switch circuit is connected to an internal diodes within each of the two coils. technically because of this feature, they are actually called ignition modules. These internal diodes prevents cross fire between the two coils! This black wire circuit is SHARED between the two coils and provides a common ground to this anti cross fire diode protected circuit. If one of the black wires IS FRAYED, and grounds out to the engine or if the wire cannot carry a consistent voltage this defeats the diode from protecting against cross fire. And in this engine, clearly that is the case. The insulation is damaged because it has chaffed against the cylinder cooling fins! And likely grounds out there. I suspect what has happened is that cross fire did happen, and then eventually the coil failed because of it this anti cross fire circuit is grounding out directly to the engine! Again for emphasis, these coils depend on that anti back feed by using that circuit to ONLY be connected to the internal diode! On my machine these kill switch connectors have insulated sleeves to prevent grounding anywhere else! On this engine you are working on, it does not appear there is any insulating connectors for that protection. So that is just another point of failure that can happen from debris and dust and moisture..and yes, rust debris. The point is that if this anti back fire circuit is not electrically correct, then cross talk will happen. It may be imperceptible to the ear as the power can be very subtle as it crosses from one coil to the other through the engine ground ....but it all adds up to poor engine performance and eventually this will lead to premature coil failure. In my opinion that back wire that is frayed and obviously chafing against the cylinder fins is probably the reason for THAT ONE COIL to go bad. Just as a failing plug or damaged plug wire will cause excessive resistance to the coil and cause premature coil failure, the same can occur when the internal diodes to these coils is bypassed through a short to ground from a kill switch wire that is frayed and grounds to the engine...causing cross fire...then failure over time. these coils are only designed to carry voltage and step it up in one direction...and obviously there is timing ....the diode can only prevent that if that kill switch circuit is well insulated and properly connected.
my suggestion is to reconsider your opinion....clean the rust and extend the life of the coils, plug wires and plug. Repair the frayed insulation from the kill switch wire to prevent premature internal anti-cross fire diode failure and put a proper insulated connector on it to prevent contamination/resistance/corrosion or possible grounding to engine.
just my two pennies. (avionics tech...boeing and airbus...and a few decades modifying poorly designed farm and ag machines)
God Bless America
Excessive rust is extreme, had a little surface rust and the magnetic field of a magnet will not be affected by this. The wire was not frayed, insulation was barely nicked. Non insulating connectors is standard from the factory and the way they are designed. Voltage does not leak to air. Engine ground argument is void because a new coil was put on and the metal it secures to did not have any rust as it was the mating surface of the coil...thanks for watching and for your input!
@@IndRepair perhaps this will help convince you that the damaged kill wire circuit that is obviously grounding to the cylinder fin is the cause of ignition module failure..the surging and hard to start and poor spark performance can all be explained when watching this simple explanation of how an ignition module actually works..by design...but what can happen when the kill switch wire makes contact to the engine ground.. (again, it's important to understand that this black wire kill switch circuit acts also as an essential element of the anti cross fire diode architecture and not just as a circuit that stops the coil from producing electrical energy to the spark plug.)
I hope you find this helpful. It's not a well known and understood design, but this video illustrates the design quite well and also shows what can happen when a fault occurs in that important circuit. (now for bonus points: why do points and contacts style coils NOT need a anti cross fire diode protection? understanding why the old school coils do not require is also helpful to understand the evolution of ignition system transformers! Yes, it's the deep dive..but it's quite interesting and helpful when trying to understand how cross fire happens in design involving solid state TWIN coil implementations)
th-cam.com/video/lEYO7hNTeR0/w-d-xo.html
@@tdmmcl1532 you're getting lost in unnecessary deep details. He's not denying the kill wire may not have contributed to coil wear, only that it's fixed now. No need to go off the deep end of ignition system evolution, that's engineer-mental-illness. Just fix the damaged kill wire. Simple, easy, done.
I cannot find spark checkr online anywhere. Please provide link to buy it. Thanks.
Only place I find them online is rcpw.com I am not sure they have them in stock or not but says ships in 5 to 7 days. From my distributor they say they are not making them in 2022 because of the inability to get computer chips. Spc-7200 is the updated part number
Just tried to order. On backorder there also
a new crankcase gasket but got grass showing on it ,surely thats not a new gasket rip off ow
I have seen about 15 machines in the last year from the same dealer that the diagnosis is not adding up to what is actually going on. Thanks for watching!
Great video - very informative and interesting. Thank you. Do you have a link for the tester?
Thanks for watching! I do not have a link for the tester. They just came back in stock this year through our distributor and we got 2 of the 3 we ordered then backorder it has been since. I have paid up to $100 for one of these when the original company went out of business. Spark Check'r SPC-7200 is what they now are called
@@IndRepair Thanks! I have a mower where only one cylinder appears to be operational so this video is extremely helpful!
Glad to help!
@@IndRepair That was the issue! New ignition coil and boom! Back to full power. Just wanted to know you saved me a ton of money and the satisfaction of fixing my own tractor. Thank you!!!
Glad to hear! Good job!
Why blower above engine swing
Not sure what you mean
Check your video your coil was never plugged in
You will have to be a little more specific...
Mine had a cracked spark plug
Good Job! Thanks for watching!
Good Guy ... Thanks Boss :)
Thanks for watching!
If it was a kawasaki engine wouldn't have that problem
We get this same issue on all brands! I have replaced 6 or 7 Kawasaki coils already this year. Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair guess I have been lucky.. for the past 25 years I only bought a mower if it had the kawasaki engine..1000s of hours 0 issues
I would definitely take the Kawasaki over the briggs also!
nice . much appreciated.
Thank you for watching!
change oil engine
Always a good idea
Sure enough, this was the symptom on my mower! I never would have thought that the mower would run on one cylinder, but sure enough it does (I switched plugs L and R just to confirm it was not the plug). So this was the cause of the low power: my mower really idled down when engaging the blade, and didn't have the power to go through wet grass. Totally different from last year. Without seeing it in this video I may never had even thought that it was possible.
Awesome news! Glad to help, great job!
Thanks a bunch!
Thanks for watching!
Just spent 10 minutes telling everyone no spark , bad coil, wire rubbed through and you try a new plug! Huh!
We narrowed it down to the spark plug or the coil. The plug looked new but sometimes they come bad or have a crack in them. We wanted to ensure the coil was bad before replacing it
If I may, one question? I have spark on both. Remove one plug wire while running and the other plug runs the engine real smooth with no more surging. Replace wire and remove the other, THAT plug runs the engine real smooth with no more surging. Put that second wire back, runs rough and surges. What’s common between the two that is struggling?
I will say it can be a carburetor issue many times in this case
Can you smooth out the surge with a small amount of choke added?
@@IndRepair My thoughts too, from my experience and what I’ve researched. So I did pull that off the block and carefully inspect. Zero discoloration, zero dirt, and all the gaskets look shiny and pliable.
So, putting everything back together, new fuel, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, drained and blew out all the fuel lines (finding nothing but clean fuel) and tried again. Same issue. Fuel pump?
@@IndRepair yes. And the surging stops at high throttle yet the engine runs a bit rough. ALL this happened overnight, after I ran the gas tank dry. New, fresh “boat” gas (no alcohol as my usual) and now this. Wondering if I hosed the fuel pump?
Air leak between carburetor and block? Check fuel flow at carburetor to make sure it is good
Where can I find a spark tester like that
It is an SPC-7200 Spark Check'r most recently. These have been made by a couple different companies over the last few years and named similar names.
www.trillww.com/contact send in a form or call the number on the site. They say they have a handful left. I got mine in the other day after reaching out!
Thanks!
Thanks so much!
Real quick!
Thanks for watching!
@@IndRepair Thanks for posting.
I have a z525, same engine but 24 hp, today I was cutting just out of the blue it's sputtered to a stop and cut off and runs really bad, thinking it was gas I got it all out new fuel, and a tune up, same thing, engine even has a slight pop almost like a back fire, and idea what it could be?
If you run woth partial choke does it smooth out? Did you clean the carburetor out when you flushed the system? If the carburetor was removed, did you replace the intake gaskets?
@@IndRepair first thank you for responded, I did not touch the carb, that did cross my mind but wasn't to confident on messing with it, it has this same engine how would you recommend I clean the carb? I will try the half choke as well
@@IndRepair I did however confirm fire on both sides,
Most likely have stuff in the carburetor itself, will cause these slight popping noise and explain the sputter and stop
Thank you sir I will work on getting the carb cleaned out thank you
Good video
Thanks for watching
Before replacing a coil clean any rust particles off the flywheel magnets
It is the magnetic field that the coil uses to create the spark so normal surface rust will not impede this field in any way. The only possible issue is if there are very large pieces or chunks of rust on the magnet that make the coil gap closer or touching because they are so large. Normally only see something that rusted after many years sitting in a wet environment and the rest of the tractor is usually roached by then. Thanks for watching!
Your teachings are amazing; I am not a technician but seeing your videos aspires me and many others to learn from you. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. Thanks and God Bless.
I really appreciate that and you watching!
I am so glad to help!
That is a good way to burn out the coil. Ground the spark plug wire that is on hooked.
Not in a test...thanks for watching...
Not sure how putting a new spark plug in will make it have spark
If the spark plug is bad it will fix the issue. If it's not bad at least we know that is not the issue and have ruled it out. Always start small/simple and work one from there
The only time I will clean the rust off is when it interferes with the gap.
Yeah if there is an actual buildup by all means clean it off I agree!
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
Just swapped out the coil and spark plug. Still not starting if only that side is connected. Fires right up on other side. Air, fuel and oil filters changed. Oil changed. Carb removed and cleaned. What's next?
I would check the valves and push rods next
@@IndRepair, I got it started. Verified both sides/plugs/coils are working by starting each side with the other side unplugged. When I engaged the blades, I still had low power. Do you have a video explaining how to check the valves and push rods?
We have a video on the process at th-cam.com/video/ZdcBFuwoH4I/w-d-xo.html
How does grass and dust on what I presume is the protruding edge of the crankcase gasket indicate that it hasn’t been changed?
Wouldn’t they test the machine after servicing it? I know my local small engine shop mows their lawn with repaired mowers so they can see if everything is working properly. Doing that would probably add grass and dust to the gasket edge, right? Was there something else that led you to believe that; possibly what appears to be a factory gasket still in place?
I do not recall exactly when you are talking about in this video but I would think this buildup is a little different than just a 1 time mowing or test mow. It usually takes a long time for fine buildup/grass and normally gets almost an oily look to it over time even without a leak. Even after a year of mowing, most times the gasket still looks relatively clean and does not have a buildup around or on top of the gasket
Many dealerships don't test anything. I get mowers in all the time that we're misdiagnosed from John Deere. They told one guy he needed a new transmission but only had a bad idle pulley.. 900 vs 15 bucks..
Can a bad fuel pump contribute to no power on a single piston on a john deer d110
Normally a coil, valve or head gasket issue if 1 side is not working
Thanks for the information. Great video. My question is, what is the no-load rpm’s for a 22 horsepower engine. I have a D-130 also.
3,600 RPM is normally max setting
Good video. Why though does every small engine repair person tell you to use either "XX"mm or "YY" std? 10mm is NOT 3/8. 3/8 is .375 10mm is .393. Use the correct tool for the job. If you don't have it get it. If you can't don't do the job. If your unwilling then pay somebody who is willing to use the correct tool.
Thanks for watching...
@@IndRepair Your welcome. Thumbs up too.
Should have been a 5 minute video to long
Thanks for watching!
I had the same problem on mine a couple weeks ago It was a coil issue Ignition coil✈️🛻🚜
Awesome! Thanks for watching!