Did mine 2 times the 1st time was with the OEM replacement and it started leaking in one year so I got the Aluminum housing and it hasn't leaked since.
Alex, I’d like to point out a lot of times these plastic ones fail prematurely because the oil filter housing gets overtightened. I’ve always tightened it with a lubricated seal to about 8 ft lbs and I’ve never had it leak. MOPAR recommendation of 18 ft lbs I think is too much. Those O rings do the job with just a bit of pressure.
To be perfectly honest... That may be a partial cause In some cases but I've had a few at the shop I worked at that I was the only person to ever change the oil and never went near the factory torque spec for the filter and still ended up leaking after a few years.. I'm guessing part of the issue is the expansion of the motor causing issues with the plastic
Everyday I'm happy that vw still used aluminum manifolds on their diesels up to at least 2012... I know my passat is fill aluminum. I think the 2015 newer Gen diesels got the plastic manifold though
Just like the GM / Pontiac 2.4 twin cam . They used a plastic fitting for the radiator hose on the block . Had to replace it at least once a year because no made a aftermarket one .
I've done countless of these. I've gotten quite good at it unfortunately... One thing to note is the aluminum one is thicker. There is a vast number of different intakes for these. Some of the intakes interfere with the thicker aluminum ones. Very rare but I've seen it. I've never had a plastic one not fit. I've also never seen an aluminum one go bad..
Even if you buy the cheap knockoff GET the metal one, metal expands more than plastic with heat and all the movement wears out orings and seals, also remember that the metal one is only for the newer 3.6, if you get the metal one for a < 2015 year model you'll need to get the oil filter for the newer engine when it's time to change your oil!!!!!!!
I just don’t know why you buy one of their products with this motor once you know this! Not unless you are a mechanic and you going to replace this shyt yourself. I own a Volkswagen my cap is a composite plastic polymer but the entire assembly the cartridge filter goes to is metal!
I’ve thought about switch the intake manifold to aluminum on my Grand Caravan just bc of it coming off so many times chasing a diagnosis on a couple codes moving from bank 1 to 2. Figured it out but I made a superficial crack on the “framing” of the manifold. Eventually it spread and causing a code bc it can’t close airtight due to the crack to the screw lining.
They make plastic parts to keep the overall price down for more sales. Also, failed parts equate to LOTS of customers having parts replaced at the dealer. It goes without saying these days.
Any time I do this job I always replace the sensors. Half the time they come in the box with the housing. Other times not depending on the brand/supplier. I'm not risking a comeback as those sensors are prone to fail by themselves. After you touch them it's a ticking time bomb. They're getting replaced while I'm already in there.
I remember working at O’Reillys and we got a flyer for the new one improved oil cooler because it is well-known that those things commonly fail how there isn’t a recall is beyond me this is a common issue and Dodge should be paying for it
Also if you’re shopping for anything with the 3.6 in it get a 22’ and up they changed the rockers on them from needle bearing to solid bearings, You’re welcome.
@AlexTheCarDoctor have you seen any of those plastic units crack or fail? From what ive seen and heard, the seals are the only thing that fail and cause the leak.
As a lube tech I’ve seen several coworkers over tighten these. They are better than a lot of the canister filter designs, but it doesn’t make it much better. 😅
man oh man,ive done soooo many of these,i think if u wake me up in middle of the night and blindfolded ill do that sucker,same with the radiator,no more then half hour period😂
I don't think any of my cars ever had an engine oil cooler. I mean none of them had a turbo either, so I don't know why they would even put an engine oil cooler on a NA 3.6L. My guess is to make something that breaks that has to be replaced so they make more money, if not on labor then maybe just the part. Usually the oil cooler is the oil pan itself. And you know they did this on purpose because oil coolers are supposed to be located OUTSIDE the engine or transmission or whatever it is you're trying to cool. Just another reason I'd NEVER buy a modern day Chrysler/Stellantis product.
Increíble to hear that 😅, my very important question is ? why FICA Chrysler can’t make something good 😅whyyyyy whyyyyy I was thinking in buying a jeep wrangler but they are all garbage since FICA Chrysler are building those jeeps 😅😅
Aluminum is absolutely better but 80% of the leaks are the small O-rings on bottom .that's the main issue those O-rings get flat and turn to hard plastic and doesn't seal anymore..
Great personality, very knowledgeable….. I wish he was near my town!
DITTO
This is true, true, true! Shouldn’t Dodge be forced to do a recall?
They should….
Great videos, thank you 🙏🏽
how would they sell all those extra oil coolers they made?
Did mine 2 times the 1st time was with the OEM replacement and it started leaking in one year so I got the Aluminum housing and it hasn't leaked since.
Alex, I’d like to point out a lot of times these plastic ones fail prematurely because the oil filter housing gets overtightened. I’ve always tightened it with a lubricated seal to about 8 ft lbs and I’ve never had it leak. MOPAR recommendation of 18 ft lbs I think is too much. Those O rings do the job with just a bit of pressure.
Thank you for this comment!
To be perfectly honest... That may be a partial cause In some cases but I've had a few at the shop I worked at that I was the only person to ever change the oil and never went near the factory torque spec for the filter and still ended up leaking after a few years.. I'm guessing part of the issue is the expansion of the motor causing issues with the plastic
I always switch them to the aluminum version of that part
Absolutely!
Like the 4.6L Ford engines with the full plastic intake manifolds. I always replaced those with the aluminum one and no leaks at all
Everyday I'm happy that vw still used aluminum manifolds on their diesels up to at least 2012... I know my passat is fill aluminum. I think the 2015 newer Gen diesels got the plastic manifold though
My van is 12 years old now. I change my own oil and never over torque the cap. That's why they twist and leak
Next it's the lifters 😂
So true I replace mines 3 time until finally I went with the metal design and everything been good
Just like the GM / Pontiac 2.4 twin cam . They used a plastic fitting for the radiator hose on the block . Had to replace it at least once a year because no made a aftermarket one .
I've done countless of these. I've gotten quite good at it unfortunately... One thing to note is the aluminum one is thicker. There is a vast number of different intakes for these. Some of the intakes interfere with the thicker aluminum ones. Very rare but I've seen it. I've never had a plastic one not fit. I've also never seen an aluminum one go bad..
You do great work and thank you for your awesome videos
I’ve done a shit ton of these the only thing that leaks is the o-rings… I don’t see how going to the aluminum version will fix that.
@@jeffclark5024 mine was cracked. Mopar redesigned this part like 6 times and still isn’t fixed
love ur shorts Alex
Can a failure in the oil cooler cause it to run hot
Even if you buy the cheap knockoff GET the metal one, metal expands more than plastic with heat and all the movement wears out orings and seals, also remember that the metal one is only for the newer 3.6, if you get the metal one for a < 2015 year model you'll need to get the oil filter for the newer engine when it's time to change your oil!!!!!!!
I'm so glad I got rid of my jeep before any major issues.
Thank you
Did that a few months ago for my daughters 2015 Wrangler. No leaks so far!
Awesome, thinking about getting my daughter a wrangler too and that’s going to be the first thing I do!
I just don’t know why you buy one of their products with this motor once you know this! Not unless you are a mechanic and you going to replace this shyt yourself. I own a Volkswagen my cap is a composite plastic polymer but the entire assembly the cartridge filter goes to is metal!
An oil cooler in the middle of all that heat? WTF? 🤔
One of the most common 3.6 motor problems is it's made by dodge, effects every last one of them ;)
Nice to know there's an aluminum oil cooler replacement
I’ve thought about switch the intake manifold to aluminum on my Grand Caravan just bc of it coming off so many times chasing a diagnosis on a couple codes moving from bank 1 to 2. Figured it out but I made a superficial crack on the “framing” of the manifold. Eventually it spread and causing a code bc it can’t close airtight due to the crack to the screw lining.
You could have just stopped after you said Pretty much anything Dodge or Chrysler 😂
Please do a video on dodge Durango ac hissing noise 🙏
Grease them O rings 😂
Guess what boys and girls, when you place plastic in with all that heat......😂 Love the way you say that.
Question: will a bad oil cooler make the engine temp rum high (240-260°)?
*my vehicle runs high only in summertime
God bless you... That plastic in there is some bullshit.
one of the best mechanics on you tube.Too bad he has to work on Fiats.
Why doesn't Chrylser just use an aluminum piece and save the warranty work, and customer dissatisfaction?
that's what MOPAR is
Made
Of
Plastics
And
Rags
Ill do this when i buy mine. Thanks
They make plastic parts to keep the overall price down for more sales. Also, failed parts equate to LOTS of customers having parts replaced at the dealer. It goes without saying these days.
Do you recommend using new oem temperature and pressure sensors or using the old ones? How often do those go bad?
I see the OEM go bad more often than the aftermarket but that’s just in my shop somebody else please tune in and tell me what you guys think
Any time I do this job I always replace the sensors. Half the time they come in the box with the housing. Other times not depending on the brand/supplier. I'm not risking a comeback as those sensors are prone to fail by themselves. After you touch them it's a ticking time bomb. They're getting replaced while I'm already in there.
@@carnage50x thanx. 👍
I remember working at O’Reillys and we got a flyer for the new one improved oil cooler because it is well-known that those things commonly fail how there isn’t a recall is beyond me this is a common issue and Dodge should be paying for it
I have a durango at 165k never had a problem with it
How much cost is that labor????
Also if you’re shopping for anything with the 3.6 in it get a 22’ and up they changed the rockers on them from needle bearing to solid bearings, You’re welcome.
I appreciate the input. I was wondering if they solved that problem.
@AlexTheCarDoctor have you seen any of those plastic units crack or fail? From what ive seen and heard, the seals are the only thing that fail and cause the leak.
All the time! I’ve seen them crack
The o rings, and the plastic welds , and the mounting bolt supports can cause leaks from the plastic warping.
Mine is leaking, and white smoke is coming out of the exhaust
Yup after hearing all the things about the 36 I just be prepared for them to fail . Still love dodge tho
3.2 have the same problem
I hope thats not a doorman housing.
They do that for planned obsolescence and cheaper manufacturing which equals? More corporate bonuses.
Doorman makes it.
Genius
A) engineered to fail
B) cheaping out
Much like the lightbulb mafia back in the day, who's gonna buy the product if they never break or wear out ?
What’s the price for that job to change the oil housing
if you do it at the dealer, around $3k-$4k
As a lube tech I’ve seen several coworkers over tighten these.
They are better than a lot of the canister filter designs, but it doesn’t make it much better. 😅
It’s a terrible design lol, although I don’t mind that they did it that way I’ve flagged a lot of hours changing those things
I have a problem
man oh man,ive done soooo many of these,i think if u wake me up in middle of the night and blindfolded ill do that sucker,same with the radiator,no more then half hour period😂
Cost me about $900 ish to replace
"That's a neat idea engineers"
*delete*
Cheaper. Looks better with the CEO's meetings and all the head guys.
Owner? Screwer him.
Usually it’s the seals that go bad, right?
Yes but it’s best to replace the cooler when you go in
@@AlexTheCarDoctor yeah, for a while that stupid cooler was a hard part to find!
I don't think any of my cars ever had an engine oil cooler. I mean none of them had a turbo either, so I don't know why they would even put an engine oil cooler on a NA 3.6L. My guess is to make something that breaks that has to be replaced so they make more money, if not on labor then maybe just the part. Usually the oil cooler is the oil pan itself. And you know they did this on purpose because oil coolers are supposed to be located OUTSIDE the engine or transmission or whatever it is you're trying to cool. Just another reason I'd NEVER buy a modern day Chrysler/Stellantis product.
Alex, is that a Dorman unit?
Yes but I heard Dorman stopped making them 🤔 let me know!
@@AlexTheCarDoctor
Yeah. I can't find the Dorman one for sale.
When I need one, might just go Mopar
@@vicarod yeah same here! Just bought a new oem one for $179. New oem ones don’t come with either the sensors though.
This design causes the oil to drain back into the oil pan so there is a time delay to the valve train.. during start ups
All cars oil drains back into the pan, wtf are you trying to say? 😂
@@mattjingles5758 not all this design completely evacuates the system. Check for yourself
wonder how much they saved making that plastic instead of aluminum.
Millions
the oil supposed to get hot how you cool oil down in a running engine?😩🤣🙄😟
How much does it cost
I don’t deal with the price anymore. it should be around 1500$
the dorman part is $300
Done one on a jeep !!!
god the coolers and the seals on these are the worst
Increíble to hear that 😅, my very important question is ? why FICA Chrysler can’t make something good 😅whyyyyy whyyyyy I was thinking in buying a jeep wrangler but they are all garbage since FICA Chrysler are building those jeeps 😅😅
Them is good money
Come on you know exactly how come they do it. It's a money maker for the Dealerships and/or Private Mechanic shops like yours.
They need to stop adding more plastic
Seals still go bad
Yeah true but it’s better than a rupture which happens to the plastic ones
If bought a V6 doges motor you deserve all the problems that comes with it
So you spend more 💰 🤑 💸 💲 😂
How the fuck buys anything but a V8 when buying dodge/chrysler??? 😅
😢
Plastic car plastic parts go figure 👀
Most common problem EVERYTHING lol shittiest engine ever things leak more than a BMW 😂
who carry that all aluminum oil cooler ?
Auto Zone is starting to carry them now, but Amazon has some good ones too, and cheaper
@AlexTheCarDoctor appreciate the answer , will be recommending the aluminum one. let's see how they hold up.
It’s literally the o-rings not the oil entire system be for real
I’m not sure what you mean? O-Rings on what?
Aluminum is absolutely better but 80% of the leaks are the small O-rings on bottom .that's the main issue those O-rings get flat and turn to hard plastic and doesn't seal anymore..
Terrible
Thank you