A lotta times your camera was aimed directly at you; lol. But lucky for me your scenario is fairly bullseye to what happens out in the field. Great job. Highly appreciate you!
For line freezing issues on a new install try this before you do anything else. For both the Cooper &Hunter and Mr. Cool multi units the main control board needs to learn which indoor units are connected to which circuits. You do this by pressing and holding the button next to the 2 digit LED display on the main control board until the display say CE. Then the unit will slowly shut down and then cycle through each indoor unit as it learns which indoor unit is connected to which refrigerant lines. While it's in this learning mode, the indoor units may show "FC" on the indoor display which is normal. Once this process is complete the indoor units should now all work correctly without any refrigerant lines freezing over no mater which combination indoor units is turned off or is on.
Stick your sniffer up the bottom of the line set cover, if there's a leak in the line set, top or anywhere, you should pick up something. It would be interesting to know what your head pressure was running.
calculator works on an critical charged system however id leak tested before adding charge but guess if it held an vacuum witch i dont think u showed that Vacuum process is the best leak detection there is but nitrogen up to its max psi helps find a leak if there was one ..so if held vacuum & sure it did Great Job I like ur work so i just subscribed Thanks again
Cool not cold... Our split AC unit was cool, not Cold. We had a dude come to our house and add refrigerant, thinking it was low. Once he added more, it began to blow warm air. Seemed that it made the compressor stop working?? We then bled some out, which made it cooler, but now there is no condensation where there was before. The lines are clean, so I know this is not the problem. Could to high of pressure be the problem now?
What about the line set lengths? Do you need to add for those lengths? Or did the factory charge include some line lengths? Is it strange to see two heads on a 5 head system?
@@erikcable1755 Mini splits are variable frequency inverter technology.That also means variable pressure this is why there is no sub cooling or super heat data on the mini split because they do not apply
Anybody ever see an issue where you have a 4 unit system and 3 work great while one doesn't cool? The lines for the one not cooling don't have refrigerant flowing what would cause this?
Quite a few things can cause that… each head has its own metering device (TXV) that could be stuck closed. Most multi head units are heat pumps, which means they have transfer valves, that could be stuck. It’s possible that a control board is faulty and not activating a transfer valve. A kink in the copper line set can cause that trouble. You’ve got a complicated problem!
@@themechfixer I don't suspect a kink it was working great. It's my daughter's room she kept it like a meat locker. I was thinking this weekend I'd swap parts with another head unit just to see if it's a board problem or a temp sensor problem. We have two outdoor units one with 4 and one with 2 indoor units. The one with two we don't use as much so thinking swapping parts is my best first step to diagnosing the issue. Hopefully it's not a valve that sounds expensive.
@@garysgarage.2841 yeah! I’m glad you mentioned the temp sensors… that would be a likely candidate as well… and if you have an ohm meter, you could check those. A lot of times you can find the needed ohm’s resistance in manuals.
A lotta times your camera was aimed directly at you; lol. But lucky for me your scenario is fairly bullseye to what happens out in the field. Great job.
Highly appreciate you!
For line freezing issues on a new install try this before you do anything else. For both the Cooper &Hunter and Mr. Cool multi units the main control board needs to learn which indoor units are connected to which circuits. You do this by pressing and holding the button next to the 2 digit LED display on the main control board until the display say CE. Then the unit will slowly shut down and then cycle through each indoor unit as it learns which indoor unit is connected to which refrigerant lines. While it's in this learning mode, the indoor units may show "FC" on the indoor display which is normal. Once this process is complete the indoor units should now all work correctly without any refrigerant lines freezing over no mater which combination indoor units is turned off or is on.
Hey I did this on my me.cool but didn’t solve the problem I get a pc-03 on my Mr.cool unit
Old school peeping out the window 😂
I am dealing with the same issue. Durastar tech support is right on ...
Stick your sniffer up the bottom of the line set cover, if there's a leak in the line set, top or anywhere, you should pick up something. It would be interesting to know what your head pressure was running.
I hate servicing these things, it’s basically a very high tech appliance.
calculator works on an critical charged system however id leak tested before adding charge but guess if it held an vacuum witch i dont think u showed that Vacuum process is the best leak detection there is but nitrogen up to its max psi helps find a leak if there was one ..so if held vacuum & sure it did Great Job I like ur work so i just subscribed Thanks again
Cool not cold... Our split AC unit was cool, not Cold. We had a dude come to our house and add refrigerant, thinking it was low. Once he added more, it began to blow warm air. Seemed that it made the compressor stop working?? We then bled some out, which made it cooler, but now there is no condensation where there was before. The lines are clean, so I know this is not the problem. Could to high of pressure be the problem now?
great video what should the subcooling and superheat be ????
Yes pull out the gas and charge in factory charge plus line set aditional charge required, no super heat no subcool rules apply here..
What about the line set lengths? Do you need to add for those lengths? Or did the factory charge include some line lengths? Is it strange to see two heads on a 5 head system?
they will tell you how much you add for longer line sets, that needs to be calculated on a complete system recharge, if you want to do it properly.
Thank you
Hi, can you tell me what the pressure should have been at the service valve?
ball park 125psi
@@erikcable1755 Mini splits are variable frequency inverter technology.That also means variable pressure this is why there is no sub cooling or super heat data on the mini split because they do not apply
Anybody ever see an issue where you have a 4 unit system and 3 work great while one doesn't cool? The lines for the one not cooling don't have refrigerant flowing what would cause this?
Quite a few things can cause that… each head has its own metering device (TXV) that could be stuck closed. Most multi head units are heat pumps, which means they have transfer valves, that could be stuck. It’s possible that a control board is faulty and not activating a transfer valve. A kink in the copper line set can cause that trouble. You’ve got a complicated problem!
@@themechfixer I don't suspect a kink it was working great. It's my daughter's room she kept it like a meat locker. I was thinking this weekend I'd swap parts with another head unit just to see if it's a board problem or a temp sensor problem. We have two outdoor units one with 4 and one with 2 indoor units. The one with two we don't use as much so thinking swapping parts is my best first step to diagnosing the issue. Hopefully it's not a valve that sounds expensive.
@@garysgarage.2841 yeah! I’m glad you mentioned the temp sensors… that would be a likely candidate as well… and if you have an ohm meter, you could check those. A lot of times you can find the needed ohm’s resistance in manuals.
@@garysgarage.2841did you find your fix for this? I’m having a similar issue with one head working fine and one not allowing refrigerant through.
@@dunkinj15 I was low on refrigerant. The other units started making weird noises then didn't work good. After charging it up it's working again.
U shldnt max out a rec cyl
Guess it’s fake it till you make it 🤦♂️
4.43 LBs
Math- really easy. Switch to metric. The best and simplest system.
Was that supposed to be 7/16 of a pound? Would be easier in empirical in that case lol