I have been in multiple training classes learning inverter systems and vrf technology. They truly are as bulletproof as you can get with HVAC systems. They can overcome so many things that normal systems would easily go down over. So many techs today have no understanding of these systems. The trade schools don't put in any time to teach it which is sad for the new guys since so many changes are coming our way and right out of the gate they are behind on the times. I service Bosch inverter heat pumps and i see guys open the cover and see that huge board and they will just shake their head. Its overwhelming until you spend the time to learn and as you said. Its not that bad, you just have to be willing to put in the work to understand.
Good job! At 27:56, you put the core in and then open the valve, but the micron gauge is already removed. Is that correct? I believe that when you remove the micron gauge, a significant amount of air enters the system. Even if that’s not the case when you remove the micron gauge, the pressure in the system is negative, allowing air to enter through the core. We always open open valve first, then put core in, and remove micron gage.
Nice find, and great troubleshooting. Was the evaporator freezing in cooling mode? And was the condenser constantly self-defrosting in heating mode? I have a unit that runs fine all winter in heating mode, but freezes up in cooling mode often in the summer
I have a Mitshubishi 24k btu multi split. When i turned it on. Only the bottom part of the evaporator coil is cold and the top part takes ages to cool down. Could this be due to a restriction?
The bad thing about new equipment is the inverters. NASA started using them in 1960s for the project Mercury and they still can get them right. Good video
Good video, but we do not see you FIX the restriction that drops the inside unit temp from -7F to 40F. Was cleaning the sand the only thing you did to fix 1) the temp difference on the strainer 2) the low temp (-7F, then 40F) on the inside unit? I know nothing about AC, so I may have missed it. Thank you!
Yes, it was the sand packed hard which was restricting the flow, acting as a metering device, causing the refrigerant to flash at the union, resulting in the temperature differential. An extremely sloppy install, allowing the uncapped line set to dig into the ground. It looks as though it was recirculating for a long time to make such an impacted obstruction, but it only traveled through the line and the 'evaporator', as there's a filter in the outside unit to protect the compressor. There must be even more sand in the screen or accumulator.
So at 4:10 you mention you have 31 psi on low side and 56 on high side. Not so. Those are temperatures, specifically saturation temperatures hence the degree symbol along with and F just below the number. The psi reading you refer to is below your sat temps.
No. Can't comment on this particular Mitsubishi, but the vast majority of them give you roughly 18" of either brazed/metric style flares on their equipment that we don't use to adapt to our standard fittings. Their copper lines are always an off-size in millimeters that we don't typically use. It is stupid when the fittings are going to be left in a finished wall. Only when it runs out on exterior wall does it allow for proper servicing.
Impressive troubleshooting skills. I dread coming across these, but they're becoming a lot more common. Your thumb gives me the creeps with how far back your joint allows it to bend. Aside from your creepy thumb, this is good stuff here. I would assume install error with guys not sealing off their linesets.
I have been in multiple training classes learning inverter systems and vrf technology. They truly are as bulletproof as you can get with HVAC systems. They can overcome so many things that normal systems would easily go down over. So many techs today have no understanding of these systems. The trade schools don't put in any time to teach it which is sad for the new guys since so many changes are coming our way and right out of the gate they are behind on the times. I service Bosch inverter heat pumps and i see guys open the cover and see that huge board and they will just shake their head. Its overwhelming until you spend the time to learn and as you said. Its not that bad, you just have to be willing to put in the work to understand.
NOt gonna lie, i doubted u at first but i stuck with the video! Great job bro!
I had my doubts that you would fined the restriction but when you started to cut into the wall I figured you were onto something. Great job!
Good job! At 27:56, you put the core in and then open the valve, but the micron gauge is already removed. Is that correct? I believe that when you remove the micron gauge, a significant amount of air enters the system. Even if that’s not the case when you remove the micron gauge, the pressure in the system is negative, allowing air to enter through the core. We always open open valve first, then put core in, and remove micron gage.
What about the temp change across the strainer? You think there was a blockage there as well?
Wow, great diagnostic skills. Thanks much for sharing with us.
You bet! Thanks for watching!
Nice find, and great troubleshooting. Was the evaporator freezing in cooling mode? And was the condenser constantly self-defrosting in heating mode? I have a unit that runs fine all winter in heating mode, but freezes up in cooling mode often in the summer
Really nice methodical, refrigerant circuit isolation diagnostic
Appreciate that feedback and thanks for watching!
Great skills my friend !! Thanks for the video! 👍👍👍
Nice video. Did you also address the strainer temp drop?
Good find. Great video
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for the visit
Thats was a great find man!! Very good video
This is why you need tell your installers to prepipe to left and have the flare joints under the unit! Not in the damn wall…
Nice job. Was that a 1 to 1 setup, or was there a branch box?
I have a Mitshubishi 24k btu multi split. When i turned it on. Only the bottom part of the evaporator coil is cold and the top part takes ages to cool down. Could this be due to a restriction?
Great video. Awesome job
Thank you very much!
Interesting didnt know their woz a strainer in
indoor liquid line flare section
Youve a good understanding 😀
Thanks! Glad it was helpful!
The bad thing about new equipment is the inverters. NASA started using them in 1960s for the project Mercury and they still can get them right. Good video
excellent video .... wish you were in my neighborhood ... :-) (Knoxville, TN)
Thanks 🙏
Good video, but we do not see you FIX the restriction that drops the inside unit temp from -7F to 40F. Was cleaning the sand the only thing you did to fix 1) the temp difference on the strainer 2) the low temp (-7F, then 40F) on the inside unit?
I know nothing about AC, so I may have missed it. Thank you!
Yes, it was the sand packed hard which was restricting the flow, acting as a metering device, causing the refrigerant to flash at the union, resulting in the temperature differential. An extremely sloppy install, allowing the uncapped line set to dig into the ground. It looks as though it was recirculating for a long time to make such an impacted obstruction, but it only traveled through the line and the 'evaporator', as there's a filter in the outside unit to protect the compressor. There must be even more sand in the screen or accumulator.
Thanks! Yes, cleaning the sand was the only thing causing the restriction
Where did you get those meter lead tips from? I got the sc440 and lost one of mine.
Fieldpiece👍
That was a blockage for a plumber I reckon. Nice job finding it.
Whats the model of the fieldpiece bluetooth thermo couples your using?
that was a good diagnostics
What kind of app you using with the felpice
The app is called measurequick
aciq startup quick list to retorque flares when first using heat pump mode. once hot.
Why don’t you torque your flares to spec?
That & little bit more
Only found 1/4inch flare nuts can crack
So at 4:10 you mention you have 31 psi on low side and 56 on high side. Not so. Those are temperatures, specifically saturation temperatures hence the degree symbol along with and F just below the number. The psi reading you refer to is below your sat temps.
Good catch yeah just misspoke and probably forgot to correct it in post appreciate the heads up and thanks for watching!
That was a great search 💪🏽🤝🏼
Thanks a lot!
Bro where’s your gloves ! Shout out from Naperville good find
I know sometimes I just neglect to wear them I definitely need to do better LOL
Awesome video !
Glad you enjoyed it! thanks for the visit
If my log gets into the stream even when using little, gets into strainers
Very informative video , thank you 🙏
Glad you enjoyed it thanks for watching!
The installer should not have put the flares in the wall they could have come in with their linesets from the bottom left of the unit for access
No. Can't comment on this particular Mitsubishi, but the vast majority of them give you roughly 18" of either brazed/metric style flares on their equipment that we don't use to adapt to our standard fittings. Their copper lines are always an off-size in millimeters that we don't typically use. It is stupid when the fittings are going to be left in a finished wall. Only when it runs out on exterior wall does it allow for proper servicing.
Thanks
nice find!!! very nice…
Great video!
what is the name of those small leads ?
Needle leads
Thank you
Awesome job!!!!
Thank you!
Good find
👍
Impressive troubleshooting skills. I dread coming across these, but they're becoming a lot more common. Your thumb gives me the creeps with how far back your joint allows it to bend. Aside from your creepy thumb, this is good stuff here. I would assume install error with guys not sealing off their linesets.
Thanks 👍
Tough find!
👍👍👍thanks for video
You're welcome I appreciate you watching!
I’m trying to be like you
why wood some one put those flares inside a dry wall , Better to weld them
True
You had 100 psi on your low side and 161 on hi side. Not 31 psi and 56 like you said in video.
yes sir, my bad I meant to say saturation temps on the video. thanks for the heads up
Don't dip the lines in mud, yikes i worry about where that stuff has gone.
I thought Mitsu didn’t want us to ever hook up gauges anymore.