@@makingmistakeswithgreg I was raised using 6011's in the shop & on the farm- They definitely have a place, but I've came to enjoy the 7018's in recent years, now that I have a machine capable of running them.
@@ls2005019227 7018s are probably my favorite. Mainly because they tend to run more consistent start to finish. With 6010 and a lesser extent 6011 I always found that you could do 20 back to back rods and every one would run a bit different. Some would have a wide weld pool, some would be more narrow. Then of course as the rod got hot halfway through a weld it would also change how it welded lol. 7018s just run smooth, quiet, and lay down nice welds. Hard to beat that lol
Thanks Greg. I like that you setup different smart practice welding exercises for us. Most welding channels focus only the certifications positions (Fx- and Gx's). Cheers.
I enjoy your welding videos and stick welding too cause it is a challenge an it's what built automobiles in the beginning to skyscrapers that still stand to this day.
Thanks for the kind comment. I too like stick welding. Believe it or not I learned tig first, then stick. Stick is no doubt a challenge, but it’s amazing what you can still do with it today. It’s still relevant to high paying jobs on pipelines and field repair. I love tig but stick is probably the most useful welding skill I have when it comes to repair work.
@@makingmistakeswithgreg you’re actually amazing man. I’m a bit speechless at how awesome you are towards just a simple viewer like myself. So receptive and your content is A+. Happy to be a viewer and I’m exited for future videos.
Greg, thanks for this. hope I am not too late in asking a question: I have looked at others' videos, and some seem to say that some side to side manipulation (not a weave, but some slight side to side) is helpful when welding 7018 uphill.....even beads on plate. but your video here (beads on plate) does not show any side to side (that I could see). so, I am wondering, why do you not do side to side? do you recommend against it, or do you think it is helpful. and why? I seem to have trouble unless I make some side to side movements (such as upside down U's, or zig zags). thanks in advance.
Great question and I have some answers. So stick welding (depending on rod) can be run vertical up as a stringer weld, with no manipulation. It can also be run with a side to side movement. It depends on what’s getting welded, how thick it is, the joint style, and the amperage/rod size. I personally run stringers most of the time. It’s hard to say if it takes more skill to run a stringer vs side to side, because both ways have faults. A stringer is highly likely to have weld dripping issues/beads that aren’t flat. A side to side movement is highly likely to have undercut and get out of control for temp. If you can produce a uphil weld with a side to side motion that’s clean, there isn’t much issue with it. I just find in my case if I am doing vertical up, a side to side may produce a oversized weld for what I need to do. It also will likely slightly lower root fusion but that’s not a huge issue. Years ago In school I had to do all sorts of combinations of stringer and weaves and just found in day to day repairs it’s pretty uncommon to do anything but stringers since I don’t weld on big thick plate that much. Also, I find that stringers are hard to do on a test weld, but when I have to do it on something that matters somehow it works? I had to do a ton of vertical up welds on a trailer a few years ago and every uphill stringer looked like a perfect flat position weld, yet my practice pieces weren’t that good lol. With all that said it pays to be able to do both. Most rods run vertical up will bit in hard and the strength will be there 😀
Greg do a video about bead length , how long of a bead can you weld before distortion kills the piece , with stainless its abut 3 inchs . I find the biggest reason my corner beads look like crap is because i stop ever 5 to 6 inches and maybe i should just run the bead the hole length
There are a lot of techniques to minimize distortion. Welding 1 in welds and moving to different places on what needs welding can help. With stainless in particular it’s incredibly difficult to keep things straight. Tricks with stainless really revolve around absolutely perfect fitup. Any gap is a major issue for maintaining dimensions after welding. I will definitely tackle this with tig.
seems like your arc length is a little to short. makes you have to wait a bit for the puddle to spread out and ends up giving your weld a caterpillar like appearance. try backing away 1/16" or so your arc can widen out a bit. it will allow you to move a bit faster and flatten your beads out to reasonable levels.
For practicing vertical uphill I did a lot of t joints. In my opinion mastering t joints uphill and overhead goes a long way. It's much more efficient than making test plates with grooves.
I hung a gate using vertical 6013 and it came out rather cruddy so I'm going to grind it down and try 7018. I heated my 7018 rods to 300 degrees for 30 minutes in my toaster oven then stored them in a sealed rod holder. Do you think that is sufficient or do you use 7018 rods directly from a rod drying oven?
So code says you must use them within 6-12 hours after baking them out, the actual time is dependent on the rod and manufacture. Even if the rods absorbed some moisture they are not going to produce welds that are any more prone to cracking than 6013. 7018 has the capability of welding materials that are prone to hydrogen embrittlement (high strength steel and high hardness steel) where is any non low hydrogen rod does not. This is provided they are stored according to code/manufactures suggestions. For the average home person simply heating them up for a while will help them run better and produce good welds. On higher strength steel I use rods straight out of a sealed tin and what I don’t use goes in a rod oven if the job takes more than 6-7 hours. I buy small sealed 4lb packs from esab so I don’t commonly have to rod oven any rods. I also have a solid video on this topic here: th-cam.com/video/wB6NJVGD5Y0/w-d-xo.html
If you dont mind me asking, where are you from? I dont weld every day so i like to watch a little youtube academy and brush up before a project comes around lol. Im enjoying your stick videos, keep em coming and thanks for taking the time to make them.
I live in Milwaukee Wisconsin and have lived in Wisconsin pretty much my whole life 😀. Thanks for the kind words. Believe it or not I have used a video of my own to remember things, it definitely helps to have something to brush up on skills.
Im wondering why you wouldn't start at rhe bottom & drag it upwa rds? It would seem consistent with the orher methods. Pushing uphill would put the puddle in front & deposit slag the entire time. Completely opposite of what I would have thought.
Uphill has gravity helping you, the flux won’t get ahead of you because gravity is pulling it and the weld metal downward. If you were to run a drag angle and weld uphill, the probability of the molten pool dripping/pushing down and getting out of control is high. It is possible to weld uphill with a drag angle, however it depends on the rod, how hot the plates are, what joint configuration, and thickness of material. Generally speaking straight in or a slight push angle is preferred.
7014 seems to work great for me on sheet metal and on A/C. I tend not to use it in general work because 6010 and 7018 does most everything I need. When tackling thin materials, both of those rods tend to over penetrate. 7014 in my testing has the least penetration on steel across the board, which is a benefit when it comes to thinner material. Its also far easier to start and restart than 7018. I just wish it was a bit easier to weld uphill with.
I have covered all of them sort of loosely in videos. I am working on finishing a welding program that will have both videos and a printable guide that will cover that in more detail. If there is something you need help with right now I can give you some pointers 👍
Depending on metal thickness I run 7018 vertical anywhere between 105 and 130 for a 1/8th rod. 110 to 115 on my machine seems to be pretty good. Whatever you run in the flat position on the same thickness drop 10 amps and try it. 😀
All of your videos are great; but honestly, I probably enjoy the stick welding ones most- thanks!
I am working on 6010 videos so you will have a lot to look forward to then 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg I was raised using 6011's in the shop & on the farm- They definitely have a place, but I've came to enjoy the 7018's in recent years, now that I have a machine capable of running them.
@@ls2005019227 7018s are probably my favorite. Mainly because they tend to run more consistent start to finish. With 6010 and a lesser extent 6011 I always found that you could do 20 back to back rods and every one would run a bit different. Some would have a wide weld pool, some would be more narrow. Then of course as the rod got hot halfway through a weld it would also change how it welded lol. 7018s just run smooth, quiet, and lay down nice welds. Hard to beat that lol
Greg is the best, this video is another home run.
Thanks Greg. I like that you setup different smart practice welding exercises for us. Most welding channels focus only the certifications positions (Fx- and Gx's). Cheers.
I enjoy your welding videos and stick welding too cause it is a challenge an it's what built automobiles in the beginning to skyscrapers that still stand to this day.
Thanks for the kind comment. I too like stick welding. Believe it or not I learned tig first, then stick. Stick is no doubt a challenge, but it’s amazing what you can still do with it today. It’s still relevant to high paying jobs on pipelines and field repair. I love tig but stick is probably the most useful welding skill I have when it comes to repair work.
Great video Greg. I’m having a marathon with popcorn here haha. Sorry for all the comment notifications😂
You’ll have one more to watch tomorrow when I upload it. I did a 50min video on welding just with 6011 and covered everything I could think of 😀
@@makingmistakeswithgreg you’re actually amazing man. I’m a bit speechless at how awesome you are towards just a simple viewer like myself. So receptive and your content is A+. Happy to be a viewer and I’m exited for future videos.
THanks, helpful!
Glad it helped you 😀
A little rod manipulation will get rid of that convex look! But anyway great video thanks
get yourself the transpocket with pulse. its lovely for going uphill 7018
I am probably going to be buying the battery powered welder they make 😀. I will be making a decision pretty soon.
Greg, thanks for this. hope I am not too late in asking a question: I have looked at others' videos, and some seem to say that some side to side manipulation (not a weave, but some slight side to side) is helpful when welding 7018 uphill.....even beads on plate. but your video here (beads on plate) does not show any side to side (that I could see). so, I am wondering, why do you not do side to side? do you recommend against it, or do you think it is helpful. and why? I seem to have trouble unless I make some side to side movements (such as upside down U's, or zig zags). thanks in advance.
Great question and I have some answers. So stick welding (depending on rod) can be run vertical up as a stringer weld, with no manipulation. It can also be run with a side to side movement. It depends on what’s getting welded, how thick it is, the joint style, and the amperage/rod size. I personally run stringers most of the time. It’s hard to say if it takes more skill to run a stringer vs side to side, because both ways have faults. A stringer is highly likely to have weld dripping issues/beads that aren’t flat. A side to side movement is highly likely to have undercut and get out of control for temp.
If you can produce a uphil weld with a side to side motion that’s clean, there isn’t much issue with it. I just find in my case if I am doing vertical up, a side to side may produce a oversized weld for what I need to do. It also will likely slightly lower root fusion but that’s not a huge issue. Years ago In school I had to do all sorts of combinations of stringer and weaves and just found in day to day repairs it’s pretty uncommon to do anything but stringers since I don’t weld on big thick plate that much. Also, I find that stringers are hard to do on a test weld, but when I have to do it on something that matters somehow it works? I had to do a ton of vertical up welds on a trailer a few years ago and every uphill stringer looked like a perfect flat position weld, yet my practice pieces weren’t that good lol.
With all that said it pays to be able to do both. Most rods run vertical up will bit in hard and the strength will be there 😀
thanks for your prompt reply. @@makingmistakeswithgreg
Greg do a video about bead length , how long of a bead can you weld before distortion kills the piece , with stainless its abut 3 inchs .
I find the biggest reason my corner beads look like crap is because i stop ever 5 to 6 inches and maybe i should just run the bead the hole length
There are a lot of techniques to minimize distortion. Welding 1 in welds and moving to different places on what needs welding can help. With stainless in particular it’s incredibly difficult to keep things straight. Tricks with stainless really revolve around absolutely perfect fitup. Any gap is a major issue for maintaining dimensions after welding. I will definitely tackle this with tig.
seems like your arc length is a little to short. makes you have to wait a bit for the puddle to spread out and ends up giving your weld a caterpillar like appearance. try backing away 1/16" or so your arc can widen out a bit. it will allow you to move a bit faster and flatten your beads out to reasonable levels.
The first rule of welding is assume a comfortable position. that has been passed down from three generations of welders in my family anyway.
ABCs of welding, “Always Be Comfortable” 😀👍
For practicing vertical uphill I did a lot of t joints. In my opinion mastering t joints uphill and overhead goes a long way. It's much more efficient than making test plates with grooves.
Definitely agree. If you can master vertical up all other positions will be easy.
I hung a gate using vertical 6013 and it came out rather cruddy so I'm going to grind it down and try 7018. I heated my 7018 rods to 300 degrees for 30 minutes in my toaster oven then stored them in a sealed rod holder. Do you think that is sufficient or do you use 7018 rods directly from a rod drying oven?
So code says you must use them within 6-12 hours after baking them out, the actual time is dependent on the rod and manufacture. Even if the rods absorbed some moisture they are not going to produce welds that are any more prone to cracking than 6013. 7018 has the capability of welding materials that are prone to hydrogen embrittlement (high strength steel and high hardness steel) where is any non low hydrogen rod does not. This is provided they are stored according to code/manufactures suggestions. For the average home person simply heating them up for a while will help them run better and produce good welds. On higher strength steel I use rods straight out of a sealed tin and what I don’t use goes in a rod oven if the job takes more than 6-7 hours. I buy small sealed 4lb packs from esab so I don’t commonly have to rod oven any rods. I also have a solid video on this topic here: th-cam.com/video/wB6NJVGD5Y0/w-d-xo.html
If you dont mind me asking, where are you from? I dont weld every day so i like to watch a little youtube academy and brush up before a project comes around lol. Im enjoying your stick videos, keep em coming and thanks for taking the time to make them.
I live in Milwaukee Wisconsin and have lived in Wisconsin pretty much my whole life 😀. Thanks for the kind words. Believe it or not I have used a video of my own to remember things, it definitely helps to have something to brush up on skills.
Im wondering why you wouldn't start at rhe bottom & drag it upwa rds? It would seem consistent with the orher methods. Pushing uphill would put the puddle in front & deposit slag the entire time. Completely opposite of what I would have thought.
Uphill has gravity helping you, the flux won’t get ahead of you because gravity is pulling it and the weld metal downward. If you were to run a drag angle and weld uphill, the probability of the molten pool dripping/pushing down and getting out of control is high. It is possible to weld uphill with a drag angle, however it depends on the rod, how hot the plates are, what joint configuration, and thickness of material. Generally speaking straight in or a slight push angle is preferred.
Ty
Do u like 7014....... Im kind a liking it.........
7014 seems to work great for me on sheet metal and on A/C. I tend not to use it in general work because 6010 and 7018 does most everything I need. When tackling thin materials, both of those rods tend to over penetrate. 7014 in my testing has the least penetration on steel across the board, which is a benefit when it comes to thinner material. Its also far easier to start and restart than 7018. I just wish it was a bit easier to weld uphill with.
Do you have any videos demonstrating the 1f, 2f, 3f and 4?
I have covered all of them sort of loosely in videos. I am working on finishing a welding program that will have both videos and a printable guide that will cover that in more detail. If there is something you need help with right now I can give you some pointers 👍
with the 1f im having trouble welding on 1 side of the plate
nvm i just had to up the amps
What amperage were you running? I didn't hear that in the video.
Depending on metal thickness I run 7018 vertical anywhere between 105 and 130 for a 1/8th rod. 110 to 115 on my machine seems to be pretty good. Whatever you run in the flat position on the same thickness drop 10 amps and try it. 😀
Thanks for the quick response.
Likes for Bob!
Your gloves look like mine
🙏🙏✅✅👍