My First Time Welding With 7014
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video I will be welding with 7014 for the first time. I will be sharing my real life first impressions. I will be stick welding with my sae 300 lincoln engine drivin welding machine. I will be welding on 12" pipe. I will be building a charcoal grill out of a piece of 12" pipe. I will be using my mobile welding rig and I will be stick welding.
TEXT ME - (405) 643-7176
AROSS STORE: www.arossweldi...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
AROSSWELDING TRADESCHOOL - www.arossweldi...
Free Course Example - www.arossweldi...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Free Resources - www.arossweldi...
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
JOIN THE INNER CIRCLE: arosswelding.m...
Details about the Inner Circle: arosswelding.m...
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
AROSSWELDING.COM - www.arossweldi...
NEW CHANNEL WITH QUICK TIPS AND TRICKS
AROSSWELDING SHORTS - @austinrosswelding
•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••
Social Media links - come hang out after hours.
My Instagram: / arosswelding
My Facebook: / arosswelding
7024 next please austin
you can do a whole series on different welding rods lol
Around the farm I don't weld anything too thick and everything's rusty. 7018 won't run and 6011 blows holes in everything. 7014 I found is just amazing for this type of stuff.
“If this is what DIY welders feel like, no wonder they don’t want to weld” Classic 🤣🤣
I've been welding for about 18 yrs and using 7014 for most of that time. I love the rod.
Smooth, clean bead
Good penetration
Has to run a bit hotter than most. I run 3/32" at 95 to 100; 1/8" at 125 to 130 on inverter.
Run hot on inside corners (fillets) and a bit cooler on outside corners as you said.
Drag rod, shove it in, low rod angle gives slag problems
Uphill rod, don't manipulate or you'll get slag inclusions
Easy restrikes
Doesn't need rod/heat oven.
I suggest you get a bunch of scrap mild steel, usually A36 type and practice a lot with it. It will weld different from 7018 you're used to. Glad you gave the old 7014 a try, Now I need to practice more with 7018!!!!
Just for curiosity sake,what are you using it on because I haven't even seen it in about 30 years.
Mild steel, aka "A36"@@scottmacleod6301
@@scottmacleod6301 Over all it's a faster depositing rod for laying in a more filler metal faster than 6013, same rutile chemistry as 6013 and 7024 with an iron content between the two so the puddle is more controlled than 24 allowing some modest "all position" work.
But it depends a good deal on the brand. Specs for ESAB 6013 and 7014 have the 6013 significantly stronger in yield and ultimate, their 7014 necks more with very similar elongation at break, but they don't give any charpy impact results for 7014 so not easy to compare actual toughness.
Lincoln 6013(fleetweld 37rsp) and 7014(fleetweld 47rsp) are very similar to eachother in strength with a slight edge to 7014, but they do have charpy results for both which show 7014 as somewhat less brittle than 6013 and a narrower range for the 7014 (more consistent). (Slightly different temperatures 6013 at 0⁰f and 7014 at -20⁰f) Elongation at break slightly favors 37rsp.
We used to use them in ship yards for repairs. They are designed for rusty steel, similar to a 6013.
Ok makes sense then cause i make panels and am no lazy to clean my metal up. But they seem to start the arc better in rusty conditions verses cleaning them anyway
I began welding in 1966, and just about every time I watch your videos, I learn some new little twist about one thing or another. Good show.
👆🇺🇸👆
7014 runs beautifully on an AC machine. Really easy flux removal, as well. Austin, use more drag angle with 7014 !
I've bin in the building trades for 28 years now I was a welder fabricator now I'm a crane operator after watching your video on building the pipe welder truck body I realized how much I miss fabricating and welding thanks for your attention to detail and sharing your work!
We ran 3/16 7024 and 7014 for second pass on pipe tub bottoms, timber head jobs. Any time we needed a big second pass and wanted to lay down some metal. Not for tacking up or fabrication. The 3/16 rods were where the Big 40 would shine! The Sa 200 would run them but you would have to stop every now and then and let ‘em cool down. Those were the days! You could almost run a box ( 50 lbs) in a day. Thanks, Mike
Always awesome seeing an informative video Austin. I have never used 7014. I was always under the impression that the slag will infiltrate the puddle. I have seen way better welders than me leave snail trails or worm things all over really making a mess. I get the impression after all that you have to go faster than the slag that is being made.
Give it a shot, not all that much different but restrike just like the first.
Great video Austin! Save those knees, put that on a table!!
Y ou have to remember 7014 has iron powder in the Flux so you're melting that into,the puddle! Good advice is to get a Lincoln welding rod se
lection guide book !!
I appreciate how humble you are while being a top notch welder. Youngsters a d experienced welders alike can learn alot from you. Thanks for all the info on all your videos.
Pleasure is all mine
It's in the same category as 7024 but you can weld in all positions with it I use this Rod all the time 4 automotive and putting brackets back on tractors patching buckets it's a fill rod hi deposit it's a great in between a 6010 or 6011 and you just get below flush and you can put a nice 7018 or 8018 cap on top of that and she's cherry
Austin E-7014 is just E-6013 plus added [25-30%] iron powder in the coating to improve deposit rate, operation, bead appearance ect. High iron powder rods run super smoothe and laysdown metal fast and pretty. As other commenters said, you need to run hot and keep the rod angled 30-45 deg. in the direction of travel, keeping the heavy slag from geting under or ahead of the arc. VERY IMPORTANT THESE ARE DRAG RODS you must keep the coating touching the work and a short arc. Look at the end of a used stub and you will see a flux cup. The wire is burned back fron the end. This is your arc length. If you try to hold an arc [as with 6010] you are doubling the arc length to over 1/4"! Long arc means Less amperage [heat]Short or drag arc more amperage [heat] loosing arc force needed to keep the slag Behind the arc.😎As you weld out of position with these rods the heavy slag and fluid puddle works against you. E6013 is better all position, E7014 just makes the AWS all positiion standard.
Good man thanks I am trying 2 get my boss buy them for fixing buckets
Exactly what I was going to say. I worked for a mobile home factory welding the frames one time when times got thin ya know. Just like 7024, but you can run it vertical. But you gotta run, and actually turn up the heat higher than you'd think. Once ya get the hang of them you can really throw down some metal. God bless, and work safe.
that was pro move with burner circle before starting the triangel 👌
I like to just make a couple different joints and grab a new rod and figure out the range they work best for each joint configuration I’m doing. I always keep notes in my book. My machines and all the machines at the shop. That way if I forget what I had a machine set on I can just look in my notebook and get a good start point and tweak to what the puddle tells me I need.
Feet first is always more fun and makes you really pay attention to the puddle.
Keep up the good works Austin. Love your videos
The way I learn is to try doing things a different way, sometimes it takes a little longer but I always learn from it. As I have been teaching my young coworker, I will show him what happens when the heat is too high, too low, and how fast to travel. You have to think on a different level when teaching, even if you teaching yourself, like what happens when I try this or that. I’ve learned more from teaching than being told what to do.
They are really fluid when you turn them up so they run good.
Not sure if I took it the wrong way but what did you mean that you just found put yiur machine was a DC machine?
Pferd or Ferd makes great abrasives. I like their 6" braided wire wheels. Them and the Norton Bluefire are what I prefer.
I used this in a fab shop for stitch welds if you clean up the steel first with a wire brush and run it hot and close to the material as possible it lays a bead like butter
Sanding off the mill scale always helps (although with right rod not essential) and certainly won't hurt regardless of which rod or other welding prossess you use.
Surprised you never ran it before,
I made up welding bead samples on a big plate that hung on a wall of every type of rod we sold. when a customer wanted to know how it ran ect. I would show them, made selling much easier, so I ran everything in the book to know the product.
I understand we get into using certain rods and live with them, my first rod I ever ran as a youngen (10) was 6011 went thru a few #50 boxes in my informative years, all before MIG came out, yea i'am old 😂😂, my old man said if you can run 6011 you can run anything.
I love watching Victor go,go,go !!!!
Austin. It’s funny I should come across this video about 7014 today. I’m an avid follower of yours and recently got myself a little gas engine driven Multiquip machine to start learning on. I’ve been running 6011 and recently was given 2 5lb sleeves of rod that ended up being 7014. As a real green beginner….i just can’t get the hang of 7014.
Get 1/8”! DRAG DRAG DRAG! It’s a good rod once you figure it out! You can’t let the molten slag get in front of the puddle, or you’ll get those areas of incomplete fusion & slag pockets. Pushing the rod like you did when welding the top on is a huge no no in 7014 welding. Again, DRAG DRAG DRAG, and lay the rod on the plate, not off of it! And it works downhill just fine…….once you figure out how! In my experience, vertical up is bad ju-ju with 7014.
Austin, most pipeline machines are DC only output. I have mostly run 7014 on AC, and don't have enough hood time with them on DC to form any significant opinion. I prefer the 7014 if for no other reason than I do not have random porosity issues with them. Admittedly, I haven't had porosity with 7018 in a while, bit I still tend to grab 7014 unless I think the added ductility of 7018 is needed.
Try some 7024 if you have flat work to do. You'll have to turn the heat up, but it will fill in a bevel faster than anything else.
Best 2 farm rods out there..............7014 and 6013
I agree 7018s pretty good too 6013 is my favorite rod of all time 7014 is a great rod for heavier metals like 3/4 plate
They will weld really thin metal pretty well, as I recall. I think I welded 18awg with it on really low amps. I don't use it much. I think it's much like 6013.
I run a lot of 7014. I am not a full time welder, and I don't want to have to deal with 7018 storage requirements, so 7014 is what I keep in my truck. I run 1/8" 7014 at about 120amps on a good fit up. 100amps on a bad fit up. Makes a nice bead, plenty of penetration, easy to start and restart. I have a hard time getting it fully fill-up the crater at the end of a run. Always end up with a slight dish no matter what I do. It runs fine uphill, but leaves too big a bead for my taste, so I still use 6011 for that.
And I should add with this second comment there is as you've already figured out an epic amount of slag that's that gummy stuff you was talking about you can get the slag in your puddle real quick you can also get worm tracks that big void you had on your hinge bracket there are people that don't like this Rod because it is a challenge to use it just like 6013 is a challenge to use and most of the time it's because the slag forces you to keep the rod angle correct or you will get it in your puddle and have inclusions City
It's a higher deposition Rod there's iron dust in the flux that adds to the weld puddle. It's made for faster moving higher amperage high-speed deposition with medium weld penetration. That's probably why it feels more like spray arc. Love you videos, best way to learn is to get out of your comfort zone.
Amazing torch skills! Welding too.
I enjoy both approaches! Usually I will research though. Great vid brother! 👊 from Michigan!
Yeah the slag runs around with 7014 and 7024 more drag angle helps with that
Back when I was just welding for the farm that I worked on and for neighbors and only had access to an old Marquette AC stick welder and had no knowledge of impact properties I ran miles of 1/8 7014. I preferred it to 6013 because of higher tensile strength (I knew what the number designation on stick electrodes meant). Once I started welding professionally and started educating myself on weld metal mechanical properties I stopped using it and haven’t used it since. I’m sure they’re fine for non-critical welding but why take a chance. Apparently, they worked though because I never had any failures and I welded tons of things that shouldn’t have been welded with 7014 before I knew any better.
The heat transfers up the plate on a fillet weld. We aim the rod more at the rear plate, than we do a 45° or into the bottom plate on the root pass. Thats where the heat goes. Just like doing a vert up 7018 plate... all that heat goes up. You xan crank it and pull the rod away from the plate to increase heat, but dont. 😂
7014 is a fast fill rod, so you were doing some out of position stuff, I am sure you felt it was a bit more fluid than 7018. Hot and fast for production work. Would be interesting to time the difference between 7018 vs 7014, maybe 2 sides of a gate?
As a DIY hobbyist my biggest hurdle is coming up with projects to do to practice welding. A hitch mount grill is intriguing, but I don't have access to pipe of that size.
I like 7014 for tacking expanded mesh on guarding
I used it when i had only AC output..worked great!
Wow you are really good at free hand cutting with the torch, impressive work. I struggle with that lol.
Thank you
Duke Energy ‘s test on a 6G is 7014. No landing with a 2” square as a spacing. 2”- 12” - Pipe is required. Practice, practice, practice. I was the only one who passed out of 4000 welders.
This was fun to watch. Thanks for satisfying my request if you could call it that. 7014s have 30% iron powder in them, hence the need to crank the amps up compared to the same size 7018s. It's like a 7024, which has 50% iron powder, but that is limited to flat plate or horizontal fillet welds because it's so fluid.
You saying "Must be an uphill rod" was hillarious. I knew that slag ran in front of your puddle when I saw you try it.
I've got a box of em in case I need to fill something up quick and I can't MIG it. Like you, I prefer 6010 and 7010s cause I can go downhill over anything, but it's another tool in my toolbox in case something shits the bed and I don't have anything else left.
Number 1 all positions
7014 is all we use where i work. crank up the heat real high and get going. im a production welder at a concrete panel factory and i weld the form together.
need to turn 'er up between 100-140s...even 150 but you're movin fast at that heat. I drag 7014s rarely push my puddle. It's supposed to be an "all positions" rod, but downhill, I wouldn't recommend it because of the slag build-up. An excellent video sir!
Can someone clarify for me...I see a lot of comments about 6013 being a farmer rod and good for rusty material. I was always taught that 6013 was really only good for thin gauge and had a hard time penetrating rust. 6010 was the rod most farmers typically use and was great at penetrating rust.
The only rods I've used is 6010 6011 7018 ... i weld pipe in a fab shop we use P5+ 7018 and lot of flux wire
I'm watching the spatter during the welding. My guess is there is MOISTURE in the rods. Haven't welded much 7014 buy had goog luck with it. It came out of a sealed #5 box. Don't recall if it should be stored in an oven. Will have to do a little research. Thanks
I've used 7014 uphill and downhill, they need a lot of heat, depends on your machine welding hot or cold. you do need to practice, better if you clean you metal before welding with 7014 they are good using DCEN. for the thinner metal and DCEP for the thicker metals. If you learn the rod your welds will come out smooth like 7018. I wouldn't do any heavy equipment welding with those rods they're not as strong as 7018.
Also was always taught to set your remote on 50 or better set your course setting so that can be accomplished.
Nice looking barbecue pit
7014 is my favorite. It really shines on vertical welds welding top to bottom. It takes some getting used to. It's a fast freeze rod and I find it stays put better than I can get 7018 to do, especially on vertical or overhead operations. 80-90amps is best
So you like it down hill
Chop your machine Austin 🤙🏽
Run it hotter than 7018 and treat it like 6013 only with better deposition. Supposedly better penetration than 7018 DCEP but I have never found it as strong. Not low hydrogen and doesn't need to be kept in an oven.
Pferd makes a lot of great products, it based in Germany and is pronounced Ferd which means horse..
Btw, 4616/7014 is quite sensitive to the welding angle and prefers to get dragged
Have you run 6013? I hear online that 6013 and 7014 are very similar, may need more of a drag angle to push the crap away from puddle.
I am no 7014 expert by any means. But I do believe that is one of the preferred rods for ac only welding machines. I know on the old Lincoln 225 ac machines the 7014 is easier to run than 7018 is. So I am assuming that running them off those types of old ac transformers is initially what they were designed for. But that's just an assumption. I probably haven't burned more than a dozen 7014's in my entire life and all off of an old ac lincoln 225.
73-75 on my primeweld and the read out is 11amps under on the leads with an amp clamp. So 84-86 amps for a 7014 3/32 en or ac ran best. EP if it was just a 1g weld.
And I found the railroad tracks usually happen when you travel too slow or too fast or don't fill your start enough. Too slow can be over come by steeper rod angle. Too fast and poor start can be overcome by slowing down slightly or changing rod angle
Cool project 👍
you aren't dragging it... it's a total drag stick. They are called a high deposition and speed of travel rod for a reason. Turn up the juice up a bit, lay the rod down more, and go. They don't like to be pushed. I've got a AC/DC machine but I like them on AC, so far. They can go up or down, I like down. YMMV
Where do you get those leather kneepads? I use the regular nylon Lowes ones and they don't last not to mention things can get interesting if slag or a spark makes it to the wrong place?
www.amazon.com/shop/austinandkayla/list/2CGVK4MTE25QZ?tag=onamzthekayla-20&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m
Also for anything else you may be interested in that I use or recommend check out my favorites page here on our website site.
www.arosswelding.com/favorites
@@arosswelding Thanks for the reply! I expected them to be a lot more expensive than that! I’ll have a set on the way!
Move the leads around on your machine and it will be like night and day on that 7014 rod..
I prefer welding AC over DC and 7014 is my favorite rod try on AC👍
I've never been able to get consistent welds with 7014. Guess I just haven't had enough experience with them. I always seem to get inclusions of slag here and there.
For me, the 7018 is much more forgiving. (Still waiting for the Teflon tip for easier restrike though LOL !!!)
I’ve used 7014 for years on my Lincoln buzz box AC was good but on my DC portable welder not as good as
Austin run them electrode negative I've been running them for 53 years
I like medium rare please! great video
I love my 7914 rods bro lol my miller stick welder shoot its Wad and I was in the middle of a small job for a guy ran out to the Harbor freight picked up an 225 Amp stick welder lol not a bad welder it will not run 7018 only 7014 rods don't know why but it won't I weld with a lot of hippie rods not a bad rod
Very good Video 👍 👍
They're great for hanging things. Like tying your lead on the side of a manlift. Otherwise they're junk
😂
It runs better on AC current or straight polarity
DOOD, I've got 7024 in the mail. get some!
but 7018 is the good stuff. And I'm destroying Al with TIG at present.
7024's are made for 1G and 2G axis
7024 is fast fill rod...got 50% iron powder in em...Aka jet rod
I got a grill just like that for my welding rig. 😂😂
I prefer to do research - read, watch videos, and then go for it and hopefully learn from my mistakes.
What is 7014 for
70 series rod def a uphill rod
pickle cutter
I like 7014 because it restarts so much better than 7018.
You look like Fantozzi
7014's are a fill/freeze just like 7018
It melts and burns slower than 7018
I'm going back to oxy cutting 😮
I can never get any rod to burn with any degree of finess. And I have to read the manual. Don't have your experience. Manual suggests. AC or DC rod. And Uphill. Plus tolerant to rusty metal. Then all you need is the skill to use it.
7014 is a fill rod, better for cap, not great penetration, 70-100A ,and it is very hard to read the puddle
Pferd... you sort of spit the F... means horse in ze germans
The word that comes to mind when I use 7014 is "greasy".
Got run em' a little hotter than 7018
Never liked 7014. It's a farmer rod like 6013. Poor penetration, crappy welds, and not that good for much.
Then why is there a market demand for it.
@@harolddalesr8365 because it is easy to make a bad weld look good with both 6013 and 7014. 6013 is a sheet metal rod. But who stick welds sheet metal anymore? 7014 I'm not sure what purpose it was intended for.
@davidwilder7109 a lot of x ray quality pipe welds are done with 6011 root and 6013 fill and cap here in the UK. They are a good rod with easy release slag, attractive weld bead appearance and the required mechanical properties. They generally don't need to be baked which was one of the reasons for their initial design and use, predominantly in the shipyards back in the day.
I weld with both the 6011 and 6013. Lay down good wells and passed the bend test.
6013 rod is not a sheet metal rod.
HOLY BALLS , can't believe I Heard you. Say you just found out that your welder is DC .. OMFG. Let's hope you was running DC + .. !! !!???
First 2 # ers. Are tensile strength... 3 rd # will be a 1 , or a 2 . 1 all position .. 2 , Flat or Horiz. And nothing more that a 15° down angle..
7014 runs nice on ac but if your running on dcep I find your amps haft to be higher and more of a steep drag angle to keep all the flux behind you
First and foremost I’m not nearly the welder you are by experience or by trade. I’m a self taught welder who had no choice except to teach myself. I do like welding and have been welding on my farm equipment and making 3 point hook up equipment a long with repairs for over 10 years. I first started using 7014 1/8 and 5/32 on a trailer that I built for a friend. I used all new metal. I used 6011 as a root pass and then capped with 7014 1/8 and best I can remember I had my machine set about 190 amps for this other wise the welds looked like you stated cold weld not bonding. I never was successful at using these rods on uncleared metal I would always make it bright clean. These rods don’t penetrate like 6011 or 6010. I just basically used them for capping and filler multiple passes. Then after watching and picking up pointers from you I dropped them for 7018 and found that the 18 rods are a better way to fly. And never used 3/32 rods until you and a retired welder buddy that I custom bail for told me they are much easier to use. I’m fairly well stuck on 6010, 6011, and 7018. I have used others but now I see why the 7018 are a better option. My money is on you going back to the 18. I don’t think I did so much grinding in my life until I realized I had to turn the heat up on the 7014. Thanks for sharing your experiences it takes caring person to share the his experiences.
Man 7014 rod is like 6011 and 6013 got all beered up and made a baby in the back of a half ton chevy. Weird smoke tons of slag bunch of trash floating around. Super hard rod to read. Love your content man, wish i could make the change from equipment repair welding into something a man could be prouder of.
I've recommended it to you a few times and am glad you tried it. I think you'd like 1/8" better. D/C 145 amps ish
I actually prefer 7014 mostly for the re-strikes. Plus you don't need a rod oven.
Next try 7024. 😃
Jump in head first and figure it out. Great video.
My favorite rod as well..
Why? 7018 is the industry standard. If it's good enough for structural steel it's good enough for anything.
Just easier to work with on short runs, restarts so much easier than 7018. I generally go either 6011 or 7014 or sometimes 6013.
@@AY-cj9kpI also prefer 7014, but if you add a little flick when breaking the arc with 7018, restarts are very easy. It gets rid of the molten flux that causes restrike problems.
I'm like you I'm a self taught welder and I love learning new welding techniques on the fly,awesome video
3rd and last comment I just realized you were using your generator to weld with that so you were using a sinusoidal wave rotary welder you should try it with your inverter stick welder I think you'll like what you find try it with your inverter your little Lincoln inverter 7014 works great on inverters