Amazing simple setup. I think this is just what IAN needs. Simplicity and normal people saying it is easy and sounds good. One question: I am not sure if the oversampling and digital processing in the DAC "mess up" the pure signal from the Ian Canada digital out. In other words, your DAC needs to be the SLAVE.
For the 60EUR only (half price of TransportPi), It is possible to order constant temperature OCXO for RPi4B, and then feed your DAC just from USB of RPi4. Then take a look at SMSL SU-1 or Topping E30II DACs, both coming with confirmed excellent measurements and reviews on audio science review, and other known resources. Then power module. He ask 60-130 euro for what? Supaecaps? Of course without supercaps the music will sink in noise. How that guy forgot $3000 power cable, and $1000 cable stands... In real life, 5pcs 2 layer PCBs costs $5 from PCBWay. Polymer capacitors $1.5-2 per unit, not taking quantity discount in account. Instead of the capacitors bank, you can built regulator using say parallel TPS7A4700. Here you'll get really ultra ultra low noise PSU, still well below 130euro. You'll learn how to design LDO with several paralleled integrated regulators in addition. But if you want capacitors bank, and don't want to bother with the assembly $12-15 from Ali or Ebay.
Then build one and let me try it. Would be interesting to try. Most people are not that electrically educated to make something like that. Sounds like you are though
@@ThriftShopReviews I building It. Of course I'm not going to use picovolt noise floor LDO, I'll go for simple cap bank, and linear PSU based on some LM338 or LM350 IC. But this is secondary detail. What's really important - I own precision ADC (-128dB SNR, 0.00007% THD+N), that I think able to catch difference of distortions added by the DAC fed by the bare RPi, and RPi + clock. And objective measurement is the thing, that way better than statements like "I heard huge difference that changed my mind about the whole essence of the nature of things". It's even more objective, than those blind tests, that so carefully avoided by most of audio bloggers.
@@thinkIndependent2024 I contacted Toppling about their E30ll DAC, and asked if there is any benefit to use a streamer, with precision clock. And they answered that their DACs stuffed with circuitry that eliminates jitter at usb input. Either PLL or reclocker. But I ordered OCXO board already, so I’ll try to measure differences with, and without precision clock source.
I think you miss the FIFO reclock isolation? Upgrading the clock of the Rpi would improve it's sound. But still a different world from FIFOPi with decent clocks. The Rpi is noisy and it runs at the wrong clock rate. You need to isolate the pi from the equation, not just put a bandaid on it's sub par clock. Ideally, use the Pi for only for the basic function of serving up bit perfect data stream. But put it in a faraday cage, and reclock those bits with a super clean power supply in a clean feed into a very good DAC with a very good output buffer. You have gone from 1960 transistor radio to boom box. Time to go to audiophile heaven.
Yes!! Great video!! I bought an old (non functioning) Marantz CD32 for €5, took out all electronic parts, mounted the Raspberry Pi / Ian Canada Hats, torodial transformer, linear power supply, et voila... Used diy interconnect cables (N6 silver cores in ptfe tubes) to my Yamaha amp, and it sounds AMAZING......
Good idea about mounting in an old cd player. Thanks for that great idea. My biggest issue is the case and that is perfect. I will make a video on that and give you credit.
@@ThriftShopReviewsI completely removed the pcb board, cd transport mechanism (sold it for €5), glued the cd transport front to the chassis, and kept the original power button.. I made an opening in the back for the Raspberry Pi ports, and fixed some high-end chassis connectors.. Cleaned the unit, and it is my stack. It looks super-tight....
@@gerrit-janslettenhaar4252 Did you ever consider leaving the cd transport in the case, for the ability to play from cd? I guess you could use a SATA to USB converter in order to connect the transport to the PI if the transport has SATA interface. Your idea is very cool.
have you compared the sound quality of this streamer to a decent CD transport? Id also like to see more videos like this, do more builds from Iancanada with more options, like the input boards, DAC builds, etc, thanks!
I have a daft question. If you use a digital output from this streamer (or any), isn't it then going to a likely inferior DAC inside your amp? As in would it be better to go straight to analogue on the AMP? I've never tried this, so have no clue what the answer actually is. Thoughts?
First of all, you can't "go straight to analogue" these are all digital signals, that is to say, CD's, streaming, even your TV are all digital signals that have to be converted. (Your TV, has a D/A CONVERTER FOR THE VIDEO SIGNAL.) Sooner or later, it all has to be converted to analogue. Basically, he's improving the signal before it's even sent to the DA. Or you could say the signal is being cleaned up, before it is sent to the D/A. Back when CD's first came out, CD transports were a big audiophile thing. Still are, but there are very high end CD's players with very high end DAC's. The idea has always been separation of the components and quality of the components always improved the sound. Hence the emphasis on a very good power supply for a Raspberry Pi setup. But all high end audiophile gear has always done this, the difference is, now the DIY community benefits from the internet, and we can build things that rival very high end audiophile components that cost tens of thousands of dollars due in no small way, to all these DIY contributors like Ian and speaker designers like Troels Gravenson and Joe Rassmusen and of course Ian!.
Hello, I have the same setup as you. Can you please do a video on how to get sound out of the i2s port on the TransportPi Digi? Greatly appreciate your detailed and informative videos.
Thank you for an amazing video! You and Gabster have got me very intrigued. I know little about electronics. 1. Can you please make an instructional video showing the steps? 🙏 (I have the Bifrost OG. Despite it's flaws i love it as it can be fixed. Lift the ground and see the noise go down by 75%! I have a cheap Chinese DDC with a Xmos (xu208) and crystek (cchd957) clocks feeding my Bifrost og via coax. I power it with a LPS. I'm honestly blown how good it sounds. Recently bought a burson soloist amp and a hifiman arya stealth.. I'm in audio heaven.) 2. You said xmos doesn't sound as good as the unison usb. I hear the opposite on the forums. What difference have you heard between the two?
I made a video of the assembly. Super simple. I think the difference between xmos and unison will be very subjective and based on the system being used. Most of the xmos implementations I’ve heard are not as good. Perhaps some higher end components using xmos are better. I will be building a new streamer soon.
I’m new to the world of streaming so I’m trying to figure out what the performance level is compared to a retail hifi streamer. Is it in the $250, $500, $750, $1000 dollar range. I’m just trying to figure out if it’s better to just buy a eversolo at $850 which has a good DAC and streamer. But if this is Uber Uber good for sub 300 then I get it.
I don’t have the eversolo to compare but would guess closer to the eversolo master edition due to using the higher end clocks. Keep in mind the raspberry pi software is not as good. Would be good if you use roon or title or have a local NAS. Volumio works but can be a pain compared to streamers that you can you use streaming services.
@@ThriftShopReviews I appreciate the response. Yeah I’ll be using Tidal only. So you’re saying if I’m using tidal it’s easier to get the necessary software in? Also what was the entire unit with all the parts and modules rough estimate? Lastly I saw you M3SI video and I just ordered a M2SI on eBay last night because of it. Was able to grab it for 470 out the door. Has some nicks on the front plate but it seemed like a decent price. Hopefully it pairs well with the JBL 4309s I have. Thanks for all your input and btw love your videos. You get into the details which is rare now n day on YT.
thanks for the review, i was planning a similar setup with the transportpi digi and diy a aluminium case did you try more expensive streamers/ddc`s and compared it to the transportpi digi?
I’ve tried a lot of streamers!! This is the best I’ve heard. Other though have better software and apps. I might switch to roon or plexamp soon to fix that issue.
@@ThriftShopReviews ah good to know, thanks i will probaly get mine soon for this reason i currently run dietpi and the rpi is setup as usb audio gadget which bascily means you can hook it up to a pc, it runs pretty flawless with camilladsp and sq seems quite good, but maybe not a purist solution
I have serious doubts about the benefit of super power supply capacitors because, unlike an amplifier, these modules do not require any strong instantaneous current.
Here's the way I think of it. Upon close examination (i.e., via oscilloscope), you'll see that the power output of the Pi power supply (even good ones) is not a flat line - it's not even a flat line coming out of your wall socket. While the rPI doesn't draw a lot of power, you are affected by everything else in your house, your street, and the power grid. These fluctuations will change the operating frequency of electronics and since digital music (see I2S) is totally dependent on a clock with a precise frequency, you are affected. These capacitors effectively isolate the power source from all these variations. As stated throughout, this is for people wanting the *best* sound quality possible. If you're listening on your PC speakers, you probably can't tell.
@@imkressiveWe're talking about logic circuits bro, use async USB and not those dumb, old and low tech interfaces... Never thought about why does a CPU with multiple layers and billions of transistor running at multi-gigahertz, powered by a totally average quality switching power supply never makes any error? The very easy to understand principle dates back from the first TTL logic gates, we call that detection levels = immune to noise... And for the "clock fanatics", jitter is just noise and not detectable by human ears unless you have a completely broken component...
@@guyboisvert66most streamers dont have usb. Usb also carry lots of noise. And PC - well, I have seems lots of blue screen of death in gaming pc from bad power supplies. And lots of audio noise into headphones.
@@jungtarcph USB: It's a spec and, contrary to what you said, don't "carry a lot of noise".. It's digital pal, maybe you don't understand... How would you describe what happens with micrometers spaced data rails operating at gigahertz and stacked in many layers? Do you think that "noise" wasn't taken care of? That's the problem with non-engineers peddlers, they don't have a clue... And the next time you choose a streamer, choose one with good specs and you'll be all set... An Eversolo A-6 is very affordable and much better than so may so-called "high end" DACs or streamers... Other than that, you can go my route and buy a SFF mini-PC (150$ on EBay), run Linux on it + mpd and a RompR container for control. On top of that, i have other cool services and scripts that i wrote to take care of many things, like auto-gain for music, auto-transcode directory to produce MP3 for my car, etc etc etc. All my FLACs are on my NFS/SMB server. Too complicated for you? Get a raspberry Pi 4 and put Volumio on it. Use a NAS for storage.
I strongly suggest taking more care with those super / ultra caps! I don't know the voltage or capacitance, but they typically present a considerable shock risk. Personally, I wouldn't get close to them when they are, or might be, charged.
I'd like to build one of these and feed it wirelessly from my Macbookpro and send it to my Hugo2 via optical. My hugo2 already reclocks the signal so will the reclocking from the TransportPi Digi be irrelevant because of that?
If you feed ANY dac with a lower jitter (and phase noise) digital audio signal, it will always be better. Even top of the line reclocking modules, don't do magic. If you can help the process, it's always better. That's why there are audio differences between clocks. And price too of course... And never forget, the cleaner the power you supply to the clocks, the better they will perform. The batteries and supercaps used are exactly with that intent.
I mean thats correct but from a technical standpoint how would it differ, it is not like my laptop has missing pixels etc I just dont get what a streamer would add above easthetics. As far as I know Speaker>Amp>DACs
Trust me my logic was like yours for most of my digital music life. I kept finding that expensive gear was using reclocking with high end clocks so I thought I would find a way, the cheapest way to find out. The Ian Canada streamer boards are extremely high end. You can do a lot of things if you look at what he offers. I went with the simplest items and was blown away. Keep in mind I’ve spent over $5k in my analog system to get good sound and this simple streamer blew it away. All I’m using is a reclocking device on top of my raspberry pi computer. Now with this said synchronous and asynchronous are two different things. So if using usb you must rely on the Dacs conversion which I find to absolutely suck unless using high end clocks. You can also use a digital to digital converter and get similar results. I suggest you try a cheap ddc and see for yourself. If not return it.
@@ThriftShopReviews- first off, thank you for the video. I am still learning & it helps. @StagnantMizu makes sense from what I understand - that is unless you saying that a DAC is unnecessary via your build? I had always thought that the optical output of your device would have to be decoded in a DAC in your preamp/amp still. Any insight is appreciated.
After some good sleep, re-reading all comments, and help from bard, I think it's starting to gel better in my head. Since the output via SPDIF is PCM's data, clock, and channel info it makes me think that having gitter-free clock signal has value. Yes, I expect that the a downstream (high quality) DAC may also have re-clocking, but having higher quality input data will lead to making that DAC perform even better. Prior to this research, I was thinking that the source data stream was being transmitted over SPDIF - this would lead one to think that you're essentially copying the original byte stream from one component to another (i.e., like copying a file, clock is irrelevant). I now think of it as being 3, 4,or 5 separate streams that all must be synchronized by the critical clock data as it travels to DAC.
have an first gen Ygdrasil with gen5 usb. but currently i run a 5m usb cable tho advice is not to exceed 2m. hence they idea to use Ethernet as the "transport" and aes/ebu as the connection. not sure how hard it is to make something as a complete noob.
Ian Canada makes a transport card (to use in place of the one shown in the video) that transmits AES. But, its via traditional balanced AES interconnect - not CAT6.
@@chrisd1405 got a holo red streamer with AES ebu/outputs. unfortunatly on of my ams and speakers stopped working. will take some time before i can find out if it is even repairable without having to sell a kidney. shit happens i guess
No need, use USB to hook up to the DAC in async mode, can't be better than that. Other than that, streaming are just bits put into TCP/IP segment, whatever the format used. It's best effort and with default buffering in async mode, you're all set. No need anything special, and don't fall for the peddlers that want to sell you "audiophile grade ethernet switches", complete BS...
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
I built one with several of IanCanada's high-end parts.
It sounds glorious!
Big improvement from NVIDIA shield > USB > EMOTIVA XDA-3-DAC
Amazing simple setup. I think this is just what IAN needs. Simplicity and normal people saying it is easy and sounds good. One question: I am not sure if the oversampling and digital processing in the DAC "mess up" the pure signal from the Ian Canada digital out. In other words, your DAC needs to be the SLAVE.
Thank you, I'm a newbie to this. Trying to learn. This is helpful.
Great video Thanks. May I ask, where did you purchase the clocks? TIA
I purchased the crysteks from Digi-Key and accusilicon from Aliexpress
For the 60EUR only (half price of TransportPi), It is possible to order constant temperature OCXO for RPi4B, and then feed your DAC just from USB of RPi4. Then take a look at SMSL SU-1 or Topping E30II DACs, both coming with confirmed excellent measurements and reviews on audio science review, and other known resources. Then power module. He ask 60-130 euro for what? Supaecaps? Of course without supercaps the music will sink in noise. How that guy forgot $3000 power cable, and $1000 cable stands... In real life, 5pcs 2 layer PCBs costs $5 from PCBWay. Polymer capacitors $1.5-2 per unit, not taking quantity discount in account. Instead of the capacitors bank, you can built regulator using say parallel TPS7A4700. Here you'll get really ultra ultra low noise PSU, still well below 130euro. You'll learn how to design LDO with several paralleled integrated regulators in addition. But if you want capacitors bank, and don't want to bother with the assembly $12-15 from Ali or Ebay.
Then build one and let me try it. Would be interesting to try. Most people are not that electrically educated to make something like that. Sounds like you are though
@@ThriftShopReviews I building It. Of course I'm not going to use picovolt noise floor LDO, I'll go for simple cap bank, and linear PSU based on some LM338 or LM350 IC. But this is secondary detail. What's really important - I own precision ADC (-128dB SNR, 0.00007% THD+N), that I think able to catch difference of distortions added by the DAC fed by the bare RPi, and RPi + clock. And objective measurement is the thing, that way better than statements like "I heard huge difference that changed my mind about the whole essence of the nature of things". It's even more objective, than those blind tests, that so carefully avoided by most of audio bloggers.
@@Anatoly_Panchenko love to try it
@@thinkIndependent2024 I contacted Toppling about their E30ll DAC, and asked if there is any benefit to use a streamer, with precision clock. And they answered that their DACs stuffed with circuitry that eliminates jitter at usb input. Either PLL or reclocker.
But I ordered OCXO board already, so I’ll try to measure differences with, and without precision clock source.
I think you miss the FIFO reclock isolation? Upgrading the clock of the Rpi would improve it's sound. But still a different world from FIFOPi with decent clocks. The Rpi is noisy and it runs at the wrong clock rate. You need to isolate the pi from the equation, not just put a bandaid on it's sub par clock. Ideally, use the Pi for only for the basic function of serving up bit perfect data stream. But put it in a faraday cage, and reclock those bits with a super clean power supply in a clean feed into a very good DAC with a very good output buffer. You have gone from 1960 transistor radio to boom box. Time to go to audiophile heaven.
Yes!!
Great video!!
I bought an old (non functioning) Marantz CD32 for €5, took out all electronic parts, mounted the Raspberry Pi / Ian Canada Hats, torodial transformer, linear power supply, et voila...
Used diy interconnect cables (N6 silver cores in ptfe tubes) to my Yamaha amp, and it sounds AMAZING......
Good idea about mounting in an old cd player. Thanks for that great idea. My biggest issue is the case and that is perfect. I will make a video on that and give you credit.
@@ThriftShopReviewsI completely removed the pcb board, cd transport mechanism (sold it for €5), glued the cd transport front to the chassis, and kept the original power button..
I made an opening in the back for the Raspberry Pi ports, and fixed some high-end chassis connectors..
Cleaned the unit, and it is my stack.
It looks super-tight....
@@gerrit-janslettenhaar4252 Did you ever consider leaving the cd transport in the case, for the ability to play from cd? I guess you could use a SATA to USB converter in order to connect the transport to the PI if the transport has SATA interface.
Your idea is very cool.
@@oscarwahlstrom5426 The Marantz has a very good Philips CD transport, and I kept it as spare part.
Let try to connect it to the Pi...
Please share your Volumio settings.
Good idea. I will post a video since many have been asking. Thanks
have you compared the sound quality of this streamer to a decent CD transport? Id also like to see more videos like this, do more builds from Iancanada with more options, like the input boards, DAC builds, etc, thanks!
Thanks for the video!! Where did you get your case and your feet?
I got it from eBay. I will try to post a few links
I have a daft question. If you use a digital output from this streamer (or any), isn't it then going to a likely inferior DAC inside your amp? As in would it be better to go straight to analogue on the AMP? I've never tried this, so have no clue what the answer actually is. Thoughts?
I use this streamer to reclock the digital stream and then go to a dedicated DAC. You can add a dac hat to this streamer if you want.
First of all, you can't "go straight to analogue" these are all digital signals, that is to say, CD's, streaming, even your TV are all digital signals that have to be converted. (Your TV, has a D/A CONVERTER FOR THE VIDEO SIGNAL.) Sooner or later, it all has to be converted to analogue. Basically, he's improving the signal before it's even sent to the DA. Or you could say the signal is being cleaned up, before it is sent to the D/A. Back when CD's first came out, CD transports were a big audiophile thing. Still are, but there are very high end CD's players with very high end DAC's. The idea has always been separation of the components and quality of the components always improved the sound. Hence the emphasis on a very good power supply for a Raspberry Pi setup. But all high end audiophile gear has always done this, the difference is, now the DIY community benefits from the internet, and we can build things that rival very high end audiophile components that cost tens of thousands of dollars due in no small way, to all these DIY contributors like Ian and speaker designers like Troels Gravenson and Joe Rassmusen and of course Ian!.
Hello, I have the same setup as you. Can you please do a video on how to get sound out of the i2s port on the TransportPi Digi? Greatly appreciate your detailed and informative videos.
How does this compare to a DAC on the Pi? Or just a DAC like schiit stuff?
Thanks! How did you remove the original clocks? Could you do a video showing that? I have the same setup you do
Yes please!
You can just pull them out. They aren't soldered in.
Thank you for an amazing video! You and Gabster have got me very intrigued. I know little about electronics.
1. Can you please make an instructional video showing the steps? 🙏
(I have the Bifrost OG. Despite it's flaws i love it as it can be fixed. Lift the ground and see the noise go down by 75%! I have a cheap Chinese DDC with a Xmos (xu208) and crystek (cchd957) clocks feeding my Bifrost og via coax. I power it with a LPS. I'm honestly blown how good it sounds. Recently bought a burson soloist amp and a hifiman arya stealth.. I'm in audio heaven.)
2. You said xmos doesn't sound as good as the unison usb. I hear the opposite on the forums. What difference have you heard between the two?
I made a video of the assembly. Super simple. I think the difference between xmos and unison will be very subjective and based on the system being used. Most of the xmos implementations I’ve heard are not as good. Perhaps some higher end components using xmos are better. I will be building a new streamer soon.
@@ThriftShopReviews Do catch that on video too please! :)
@@ThriftShopReviews can you link me to the video please? Can't find it. (or are you talking about this video?)
@@Thoughtflux I will try to find it.
@@ThriftShopReviewsthe assembly video seems to have disappeared -- any chance you could re-upload?
Do you have the part number for the Accusilicon TCXO Clocks?
I’m new to the world of streaming so I’m trying to figure out what the performance level is compared to a retail hifi streamer. Is it in the $250, $500, $750, $1000 dollar range. I’m just trying to figure out if it’s better to just buy a eversolo at $850 which has a good DAC and streamer. But if this is Uber Uber good for sub 300 then I get it.
I don’t have the eversolo to compare but would guess closer to the eversolo master edition due to using the higher end clocks. Keep in mind the raspberry pi software is not as good. Would be good if you use roon or title or have a local NAS. Volumio works but can be a pain compared to streamers that you can you use streaming services.
@@ThriftShopReviews I appreciate the response. Yeah I’ll be using Tidal only. So you’re saying if I’m using tidal it’s easier to get the necessary software in? Also what was the entire unit with all the parts and modules rough estimate? Lastly I saw you M3SI video and I just ordered a M2SI on eBay last night because of it. Was able to grab it for 470 out the door. Has some nicks on the front plate but it seemed like a decent price. Hopefully it pairs well with the JBL 4309s I have. Thanks for all your input and btw love your videos. You get into the details which is rare now n day on YT.
thanks for the review, i was planning a similar setup with the transportpi digi and diy a aluminium case
did you try more expensive streamers/ddc`s and compared it to the transportpi digi?
I’ve tried a lot of streamers!! This is the best I’ve heard. Other though have better software and apps. I might switch to roon or plexamp soon to fix that issue.
@@ThriftShopReviews ah good to know, thanks i will probaly get mine soon
for this reason i currently run dietpi and the rpi is setup as usb audio gadget which bascily means you can hook it up to a pc, it runs pretty flawless with camilladsp and sq seems quite good, but maybe not a purist solution
Can volumio (yet) use apple itunes library (located on pc on the network) as a streaming source?
I have serious doubts about the benefit of super power supply capacitors because, unlike an amplifier, these modules do not require any strong instantaneous current.
Benefit is for the wallet of the snake oil seller.
Here's the way I think of it. Upon close examination (i.e., via oscilloscope), you'll see that the power output of the Pi power supply (even good ones) is not a flat line - it's not even a flat line coming out of your wall socket. While the rPI doesn't draw a lot of power, you are affected by everything else in your house, your street, and the power grid. These fluctuations will change the operating frequency of electronics and since digital music (see I2S) is totally dependent on a clock with a precise frequency, you are affected. These capacitors effectively isolate the power source from all these variations. As stated throughout, this is for people wanting the *best* sound quality possible. If you're listening on your PC speakers, you probably can't tell.
@@imkressiveWe're talking about logic circuits bro, use async USB and not those dumb, old and low tech interfaces... Never thought about why does a CPU with multiple layers and billions of transistor running at multi-gigahertz, powered by a totally average quality switching power supply never makes any error? The very easy to understand principle dates back from the first TTL logic gates, we call that detection levels = immune to noise... And for the "clock fanatics", jitter is just noise and not detectable by human ears unless you have a completely broken component...
@@guyboisvert66most streamers dont have usb. Usb also carry lots of noise. And PC - well, I have seems lots of blue screen of death in gaming pc from bad power supplies. And lots of audio noise into headphones.
@@jungtarcph USB: It's a spec and, contrary to what you said, don't "carry a lot of noise".. It's digital pal, maybe you don't understand... How would you describe what happens with micrometers spaced data rails operating at gigahertz and stacked in many layers? Do you think that "noise" wasn't taken care of?
That's the problem with non-engineers peddlers, they don't have a clue... And the next time you choose a streamer, choose one with good specs and you'll be all set... An Eversolo A-6 is very affordable and much better than so may so-called "high end" DACs or streamers...
Other than that, you can go my route and buy a SFF mini-PC (150$ on EBay), run Linux on it + mpd and a RompR container for control. On top of that, i have other cool services and scripts that i wrote to take care of many things, like auto-gain for music, auto-transcode directory to produce MP3 for my car, etc etc etc. All my FLACs are on my NFS/SMB server.
Too complicated for you? Get a raspberry Pi 4 and put Volumio on it. Use a NAS for storage.
Can it work on wifi? Appreciate your response. Thanks
I strongly suggest taking more care with those super / ultra caps! I don't know the voltage or capacitance, but they typically present a considerable shock risk. Personally, I wouldn't get close to them when they are, or might be, charged.
They are about 2.7 volts
There is more danger from a 9v battery than the super cap.
@@clivestevens3547 then you can lick them safely
Waste of money anyway...
Check the LKS USB-100 usb to i2s interface.
Do they have one with aes output? Need 1 to connect to my dsp
I believe Ian does. Check out the models at audiophonics.
Better than hifiberry?
I'd like to build one of these and feed it wirelessly from my Macbookpro and send it to my Hugo2 via optical. My hugo2 already reclocks the signal so will the reclocking from the TransportPi Digi be irrelevant because of that?
If you feed ANY dac with a lower jitter (and phase noise) digital audio signal, it will always be better. Even top of the line reclocking modules, don't do magic. If you can help the process, it's always better. That's why there are audio differences between clocks. And price too of course...
And never forget, the cleaner the power you supply to the clocks, the better they will perform. The batteries and supercaps used are exactly with that intent.
But I personally would test this streamer withe the usb connection with your DAC....I suspect that it will outperform the optical (spdif)...
Can it be implemented on ESP32-C6?
Pi2aes better options in connection s and support of various hifi os.
bits are indeed bits, I do not believe a streamer is any better than your average laptop makes no sense to me. the magic happens in the DAC
I guess you need to try one to verify your logic.
I mean thats correct but from a technical standpoint how would it differ, it is not like my laptop has missing pixels etc I just dont get what a streamer would add above easthetics. As far as I know Speaker>Amp>DACs
Trust me my logic was like yours for most of my digital music life. I kept finding that expensive gear was using reclocking with high end clocks so I thought I would find a way, the cheapest way to find out. The Ian Canada streamer boards are extremely high end. You can do a lot of things if you look at what he offers. I went with the simplest items and was blown away. Keep in mind I’ve spent over $5k in my analog system to get good sound and this simple streamer blew it away. All I’m using is a reclocking device on top of my raspberry pi computer. Now with this said synchronous and asynchronous are two different things. So if using usb you must rely on the Dacs conversion which I find to absolutely suck unless using high end clocks. You can also use a digital to digital converter and get similar results. I suggest you try a cheap ddc and see for yourself. If not return it.
@@ThriftShopReviews- first off, thank you for the video. I am still learning & it helps. @StagnantMizu makes sense from what I understand - that is unless you saying that a DAC is unnecessary via your build? I had always thought that the optical output of your device would have to be decoded in a DAC in your preamp/amp still. Any insight is appreciated.
After some good sleep, re-reading all comments, and help from bard, I think it's starting to gel better in my head. Since the output via SPDIF is PCM's data, clock, and channel info it makes me think that having gitter-free clock signal has value. Yes, I expect that the a downstream (high quality) DAC may also have re-clocking, but having higher quality input data will lead to making that DAC perform even better. Prior to this research, I was thinking that the source data stream was being transmitted over SPDIF - this would lead one to think that you're essentially copying the original byte stream from one component to another (i.e., like copying a file, clock is irrelevant). I now think of it as being 3, 4,or 5 separate streams that all must be synchronized by the critical clock data as it travels to DAC.
I thought the only good streamers were priced around 30k usd.
Bits are bits and analog circuits exceed our earing abilities.
Linear supply and you re in heaven
So what you're saying is that a linear power supply would make your pc "more precise", isn't it?
boring
wonder what is needed to get ethernet to aes/ebu working
have an first gen Ygdrasil with gen5 usb. but currently i run a 5m usb cable tho advice is not to exceed 2m. hence they idea to use Ethernet as the "transport" and aes/ebu as the connection. not sure how hard it is to make something as a complete noob.
Ian Canada makes a transport card (to use in place of the one shown in the video) that transmits AES. But, its via traditional balanced AES interconnect - not CAT6.
@@chrisd1405 got a holo red streamer with AES ebu/outputs. unfortunatly on of my ams and speakers stopped working. will take some time before i can find out if it is even repairable without having to sell a kidney. shit happens i guess
No need, use USB to hook up to the DAC in async mode, can't be better than that. Other than that, streaming are just bits put into TCP/IP segment, whatever the format used. It's best effort and with default buffering in async mode, you're all set. No need anything special, and don't fall for the peddlers that want to sell you "audiophile grade ethernet switches", complete BS...