Hey I just stumbled across your vid while researching the X swap. First of all excellent video! Second, I noticed you have a GFB mach2. I have the same and have never gotten a proper answer (even on FB) where to set it. mine is damn near flush with the top. Should the screw be further down like in your setup?
I've messed with the preload on the screw, all that it does is increase/decrease the aggressiveness of the bypass valve. I believe that it will also allow it to hold boost without bleeding it off. It does not increase boost at all however.
I think so. We had a boost/vacuum leak at the PCV connection. It was blocked off because of the catch can, and the kit came with a cheap vinyl cap and and reused the spring clamp. I replaced it with a blocked off hose and hose clamp and have not had any more issues. The RPMs still jump around with the AC is on, but that's not a big deal.
I kind of went over it in the video. The downpipe is a 2-piece setup. I one piece of the downpipe on the turbo, then dropped the turbo/downpipe combo in first. Then, I installed the exhaust manifold, followed by bolting the turbo to the manifold. Then, I installed and bolted down all of the coolant and oil lines. After that, I installed the second piece of the downpipe.
You need an EvoX manifold, turbo, the inlet pipe setup I have, AND oil and coolant lines from an EvoX. The Ralliart oil and coolant lines WILL NOT work. You'll need an EvoX downpipe as well. You'll also need a tune.
Hey I just stumbled across your vid while researching the X swap. First of all excellent video! Second, I noticed you have a GFB mach2. I have the same and have never gotten a proper answer (even on FB) where to set it. mine is damn near flush with the top. Should the screw be further down like in your setup?
I've messed with the preload on the screw, all that it does is increase/decrease the aggressiveness of the bypass valve. I believe that it will also allow it to hold boost without bleeding it off. It does not increase boost at all however.
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Parts list?
Have you found out your idle issue yet??
I think so. We had a boost/vacuum leak at the PCV connection. It was blocked off because of the catch can, and the kit came with a cheap vinyl cap and and reused the spring clamp. I replaced it with a blocked off hose and hose clamp and have not had any more issues. The RPMs still jump around with the AC is on, but that's not a big deal.
How much power were you pushing?
I haven't had it on a dyno, but using Virtual Dyno, right around 300hp to the wheels.
Can you tell me how is the steps for install ? Did you put the turbo first, then downpipe, ect
I kind of went over it in the video. The downpipe is a 2-piece setup. I one piece of the downpipe on the turbo, then dropped the turbo/downpipe combo in first. Then, I installed the exhaust manifold, followed by bolting the turbo to the manifold. Then, I installed and bolted down all of the coolant and oil lines. After that, I installed the second piece of the downpipe.
@@garyburrus9379 i have one piece down pipe and i don't know if will fit or i need to arm it after put it inside instead of outside
@@EvilBot-PR you'll probably want to put the downpipe in first, then bolt the turbo up to it once it's in.
hey did you find out what the missfire is?
We think it's the timing chain. Early Ralliarts had timing chains that would have excessive stretch and could cause a miss.
In short what do i need to go from RA turbo. And mani to evo x my msrock Raliart one is cracked
You need an EvoX manifold, turbo, the inlet pipe setup I have, AND oil and coolant lines from an EvoX. The Ralliart oil and coolant lines WILL NOT work. You'll need an EvoX downpipe as well. You'll also need a tune.