Thanks for posting this video, this is the first Subaru engine I've had to work on in my 30+ years of being a professional mechanic. It saved me from making a huge timing setup mistake.
no problem man when these came out the book was super confusing and there was an old tech tip on setting the timing that was much easier to understand I ended up doing all the subby engines to the tune of 38 at my shop so I got pretty good at setting these up and working on them we don't see a lot of them at the dealer now but I know other shops are still getting a lot of these so I'm glad I could help a fellow tech.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Oh I know about the confusion. Identifix doesn't have any info on this particular car, I had to go through ProDemand and all it did was confuse me because everything is broken down into sections so you have to chase each section of the head to find all the info. I watched a couple of videos but they were just as confusing and I came across your video at closing time last night. Followed your steps, rotated it over multiple times and everything lined back up. So thanks for the clear video and explanation of the steps involved. It really saved me from making an expensive mistake.
no problem hope i was able to help i know we had some guys at our show that had a difficult time visualizing the setup. so after i set my 5th one up i wanted to shoot a video that was a little more helpful than the manual thanks for the comment we appreciate the support.
Thanks so much im doing my first timing cover ever and it just had to be a brz and my job is trusting me with it so watching this gave me alot of information
Thank you, it really does help. I'm in the middle of assembling my motor and i need to learn to time and untime my car since i have to rotate the crank a few times for my new valves to seat and then check valve clearances for those pesky shims. I was initally afraid of doing the timing since that is important and you can literally break your motor doing it, but watching your video gave me confidence. Only 'hard' thing to do is removing all that to get to the timing chain. thank video! you should do more videos on technical engine repair stuff, youre quite good a explaining it to people.
thanks man I really appreciate it man so a little background on my self I am a shop foreman for Toyota and as such, I am always teaching people how to fix one thing or another thanks for supporting the channel I will be sure to add some more engine/ automotive technical stuff. thanks for subscribing it helps the channel grow so I can do more cool stuff like this let me know if you run into issues ive had 30is fa-20s apart for various reasons we had so many issues with others doing them my shop will only let me work on them now.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Haha, you show your expertise in this video for sure. Yea, a lot of the 2013 models have the issues. But I am assembling a built FA20 motor; 10.5:1 pistons, rods, king bearings. I think im just afraid of moving the LH intake cam sprocket, even with the tool, to align that arrow to start timing the motor. I will for sure ask for help if needed, but honestly this video really covers all that's needed. for future videos, just do any automotive ones. The BRZ/FRS community is quite extensive, so already this timing video has been very helpful. Most people that do guides or whatnot aren't certified mechanics, so all those guides are mostly what they have done, it works but it won't always be how the factory or best way to do it.
Thanks, for info. Just got a 2016 FRS that's got a knock at start up and lots of chain noise. Probably going to have to get new short block. Certified mech but fairly new at chain engines.
thanks for the kind words hopefully you'll subscribe to the channel it helps me make more cool videos like this I also did a video on the 2gr-fks that sometimes need cylinder heads replaced for worn valve guides pretty cool video as well
I want it to hear when you turn it over because mine when I have the timing all set up and I turned the engine by hand the intake RH vvt sproket makes a flapping noise and the phase plate jumps back and forth it's that normal ??? can some one help please and thank you
Thank you so much for this! Way easier to understand than manual. Only had done small block chevys until now so was a bit confused with the service manual.
no problem glad it helped I was lost also but I found a cool tech tip from a tsb from a long time ago and I knew I couldn't be the only one having trouble so I did this video and 37 of these recalls so I got pretty good at this. thanks for your support
Today my engine seized so I will be pulling the motor. Thanks for the video. First I had to do a timing cover leak repair but before I got to it the engine seized when I boosted it.
Most helpful video Ive watched yet; my only question is.. If I did all that and rolled the engine over a couple of times like he said and I get maybe 90degree turn and I feel it lock up?
If you feel it hit something stop and double check the timing it should roll over smoothly with the plugs out you will feel some resistance in a few places but not a hard stop
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thank You! The plugs are in 😓, hopefully I can get this running today/tomorrow. This is my first real fix/rebuild (from head-gaskets) w/ no help. Also doing it with the engine inside the vehicle.. Fun stuff 🤌🏼
Great Video. Even better explenation. I'm currently having an issue where the Painted Arrows on the RH side were NOT aligned from the start (A few degrees off) , obviously they do not match after confirming that Painted Chain Links are in their correct locations. Can the Cam Phasers be an issue?
Yes also we had a chain that was stretch that caused the marks to be off and also some have said if the cylinder heads were machined alot it could cause the marks to be off but to answer your question more directly the phasers can be bad. On the one that we had that was off when we tore it down we recommend the chain and phasers be replaced
Great video! I have a 2014 Subaru Impreza (FB20). I’m replacing the chains and and crank shaft gear as well as the tensioners due to improper light weight pulley installed. Anyways, I was wondering if the timing is set the same as the FA20? Thank you in advance!
After I took off the front engine cover. I tried to check the all the arrows before I took the chain off. I notice that the left side arrows don’t align with the right side. I tried to also check the pink markings on the chain to see if it aligns on the line but they don’t. The car was running fine until the front crank shaft gear teeth broke. Do you recommend anything? To be able to removed and replace chains? Please if you could email me at ramirezhernandezaldo@yahoo.com I would really appreciated, this is my only vehicle and living in Hawaii is very hard. Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge 🙏
@@aldoramirezhernandez7920 the arrows from the left bank point at each other as do the right bank if there already off time you can take the chains off and roll the cams to the proper position just go slow and if you feel like you bump into something move the crank a bit then turn the cams a bit more and follow the video for setting the timing let me know if you need more help
Thank you for the vid. Really helpful and informative. But I'd like to ask, what was the reason to replace all spring? Why I asking is because I have fb25b engine and it has slight tapping noise coming from the left bank, the driver's side. I was told that it is a common problem on fb engines and usually can be fixed by replacing spring and rockers. Just wondering. I'll be doing some work on my fb and thought I could get it fixed while I there. Thanks
Can this be done while the motor is still in the car? What is the service life of the chains/guides/tensioners, is there a recommended replacement interval? Thanks for the video!
Yes it can be done with engine in. We had it out to replace the valve springs. I'd say if 150k would be a good number buy it you wanted to be cautious you could do it at 100k
I have seen in the service manual that mentions the key will be facing down when in time but you show the pin as facing str8 up? I assume the lock key and pin are in different positions. Also if you turn the crank around and the engine turns out not to be in time or is off what happens and how to you fix it? Can you turn the exhaust and intake cam sprockets as needed to position in right and turn the crank by hand to get it set in the right position?
If you rotate it over the arrows should line up if they don't the timing is off yes the key way and pin are different the repair manual procedure is pretty crappy so this is tech tip
HI I HAVE 2015 SUBARU FORESTER FB25 ENGINE AND I JUST WANT TO REPLACE THE CHAIN TENSIONERS. HOW TO SET THE TIMING? JUST LINE UP THE TRIANGLES AND REPLACE ONE BY ONE?
Yes essentially it's very similar but I would look up the timing mark diagram from a subaru manual unfortunately I don't have access to that as I was at Toyota.
great video, just a fee questions, what tool do you use to remove the valve springs/install them, and what tool is use to remove the valve stem guide that holds in the seat for the valve spring?
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop sweet deal, much appreciated, also im trying to find the tool to remove the valve seal, to get at the seat for the valve spring. bought a valve seal remover kit on Amazon, and sadly that fid not work.
I have another question for you. I took my fa20 heads to the machine shop and they aren’t sure if the valves are hydraulic or not. They asked me to bring in the cam assemblies too. If they reseat the valves will they have to grind off part of the stem to keep the correct valve clearance? Any advice I would be thankful.
yes they will grind the stem a small amount to keep the valve lash correct it seems like the machine shop you choose knows what they are talking about as some shops will just cut them and send them to you
Great video, long story short I was sealing up the timing cover and during the reinstall I messed up the woodruff key that lines up with spockets on the crank. I need to replace that Key and I assume the timing chains need to be removed and sprocket. Is the sprockets easily removed or somewhat pressed on? Thanks in advance
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop When I got home I check the colored links on passanger side or right side and after turning the crank over several times I could not get the colored link to be inline with the marks. Is this normal? I can't see the chain jumping the sprockets.???
@@larrypapke6159 so you set them all up then turned the crank over and the paint doesn't line up? If that's the case it's normal you would need to turn the engine over like 50 times to get the marks to all line back up
What happens if you don’t roll the motor back while taking off the driver side head. I already have the heads off and back on the motor and nothing seems damaged but I definitely did not disassemble it properly.
It's just a good practice normally nothing happens but when you take the chain off with the cams it can spring forward or back and hit a valve but it's extremely unlikely
Are you rolling the motor counter clock wise because of pre -load on the cams / phasers? And thats when it is on time is that right our am I wrong ? Thanks
Thank you so much for this video. Is there anything that could damage the HPFP or DI system electrical intermittently after doing these valve springs? I had the cam carriers overtorqued by mistake on that bank with the pump.. and now throwing codes for P062D and P1235... I can't imagine wear on the triangular lobes or the pump roller would happen that quickly.
What work did you do on the heads? Also, is it enough to clean the mating surfaces where the silicon gasket goes only with a razor blade? The wire wheels seems to do a better (and faster) job in cleaning it properly, leaving some scratches though.
Replaced valve springs and cleaning with a razor blade is the approved toyota way. But the wire wheel is much easier and I do use one but I didn't want people who haven't done this before messing up the surfaces with over use of a wire wheel thanks for your interest.
Hi, Thanks for the detailed video! I have 2 questions. How do you know when the crank is straight up and then to the right to get the right chain on? also how do you get off stubborn bolts? they are 1/2 inch bolts right?
Hey just out of curiosity but if I were to remove the camshaft sprocket on the passenger side of the motor, would I have to do anything with the driver side timing wise or can I just lock both driver cam sprockets in place?
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thank you so much! That honestly just saved me a headache. I’m preparing myself to get this job done for my car but I’ve never messed with timing before lol. One more question btw, do I have to pull the motor out in order to do this or do you believe there’s enough room in the engine bay to pull the timing cover off while inside the car still?
Can you replace the chains, tensioner & guides while it’s in the car? Or you have to take out engine? I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza FB20 motor…video was very informative! Thank you! Great work!
It takes about 3 to 5 hours depending on what is getting replaced and how much cleaning is needed for the job. I did these under warranty so I'm guessing a little here but I think it's around 6 to 8 hours of labor at whatever the shoo rate is
I'm doing a fa20 but the driver side top cam kicks in and out how do I know what's right I guess it the variable timing sprocket to change timing when it's running it moves left to right I've tore this car apart 4 times already I got a p0019
not sure what you mean by it kicks in and out im guessing you mean its moving when setting the timing if you set the timing right and the code keeps coming back you could have a bad controller or and oil clog and sometimes the ecu can cause this fault.
Hello! I have a 14 brz with a 2020 gt86 fa20 swapped into it, I have all 4 cam crank correlation codes p0016, 17, 18, and 19, engine is in time, wiring harness is good, I swapped all cam and crank sensors from old engine to see if that would fix it but no luck I'm at a loss any advise would be much appreciated! Runs and drives fine after I clear CEL!
I have a few suggestions so at some point on these they changed the cams so if you have an ecu for the old cams in the car but a motor with the new cams that could be an issue. call a dealer with the vins and see if the camshaft part numbers are the same i would do the same with the cam phasers/gears. after that I would say you have a bad ECU I hope this helps please comment back if it does
thanks there was very little info or how to vids on this engine and since ive taken many apart and had some people contact me to help with setting the timing on these I thought ahh let me put a vid out hope it helps someone,anyone.
I feel your pain man we have 2 and 4 scooters its a total addiction. but i guess there are worse things to be addicted to. like theme parks. lol thanks for commenting and supporting the channel
@@josuepaz9767 crawfordperformance.com/products/crawford-built-short-block-wrx-fa20-dit check them out good stuff here I know its pricey but you gotta pay to play.
I'm replacing my valve seals on my 2015 WRX along with replacing the springs, spring seats and retainers with the GSC single spring kit. I noticed in the video you removed the cam gears with the cams all in 1 piece (from how it looked). How did you prevent the valves from dropping into the cylinder while you were replacing the springs?
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop how much psi do you use to pressurize each cylinder? Also, do you have a link to the spring compressor tool you used? That looks way easier and safer than most other spring compressor tools I have seen.
@@taylorpeters2833 I will try and get part numbers off tools tomorrow they are toyota special tools for our shop but they work great and they work on other engines I use around 90 psi I will get part numbers from that tool as well but there are alot of great aftermarket tools out there that you can preform this task with as well
so i only had to replace the driver side intake cam gear so i tried to only take that chain off and put it back where it was but when i spun the motor over by hand one of the arrows didnt line up. i think it was only off by one tooth, would there be any potential damage done by that? i did feel a little bit of resistance at one point when turning it over, that couldnt have been enough to bend a valve could it?
its possible but not likely im not sure what your definition of a little resistance is as everyone has a different interpretation but as long as you didn't force it with like a breaker bar into the valves you should be ok this is why I recommend taking all the plugs out if you feel resistance with the plugs out def stop and just rotate the crank slightly then move the cam. I think you are going to be ok please let us know when its all back together and hopefully we were able to help.
Is it necessary to roll the engine over a few times at the end? I did not mark the crank pulley so it seems useless to do that. I have all the markings in the right place though. Thanks
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ok cool question then, had a machine shop do the heads and gave me all the caps back in a bag with no reference so after going through hell getting the caps where they go, I have 2-3 valves that could use another thousandth or 2 tighter and looser, will the hydraulic lifters compensate for that much or am I going to get a clatter box when I fire it up
@@colbyC1007 we usually have the machine shop grind the tops of the valves so everything is with in spec i like to be on tight side of the spec but normally when we have one of these apart its to replace the springs so we put the caps back where they came from so we almost never measure them. Thanks for the support it the video helped you get it all back together.
I purchased a new short block, and am using heads and cam boxes from old shortblock. To set the timing, do I need to get the new short block to TDC before installing the timing chains?
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thank you for the reply, does it go away on first start up, kind of scared to put it in with that click from right side intake cam.
@@gsohi9700 so right now with no oil pressure the gear kinda never locks and makes some noise it should go away when you start it but if you think the gear is bad I would replace it while you are there
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks, when I removed everything it was fine, was sealing cam carriers. So it is only clicking due to oil pressure not present correct? As it was fine during removal. Thanks for help
Why can’t I just line up all the arrows as you mention and slap the chains on instead of doing the left bank and rotating it to install the right bank. Seems like it’s a matter of just lining up the arrows and holding them there as long as the crank is right.
the motor is loaded when the arrows are pointing at each other on the right bank so you would have to lock both gears to attempt doing that way also the crank link is in a weird spot during this time. when you time this its basically like timing 2 different engines so you time the right bank then rotate over and time the left bank its really the easiest way to do it. The reason I did the video was the instructions in the manual are super confusing and they have you do the procedure different this instruction is from an old TSB that was out when the motor was first released and it makes setting the timing much easier I just wanted to help other people that might be struggling with this
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop makes a lot of sense, I appreciate the quick reply. One last question if you don’t mind, the engine had metal shavings which have been cleaned out prior to assembly. I removed the oil pump plate in the back of the timing cover to expose the oil pump as well as the plates next to it that house those oil channels to make sure that looked good and was cleaned anyway but I noticed there was no sealant. I put it back together but wonder if I should add sealant to those plates that get held on by Phillips screws (used impact driver to set them) to ensure I don’t lose oil pressure?
@@brunoc9376 no need for any sealant and I would not put any there as if it somehow becomes lose it will get sucked into places that are not good. when we were doing these recalls my Toyota rep told me there were a few dealers that had them come back with rod knocks and the problem was lack of cleaning so when they would clean the old sealant they left all the pieces to float around and that clogged the screen and the rest is history. please let me know if you run into any snags I will try and walk you through it I was the only tech and still am the only tech at my shop that they let work on these I've had 38 apart mostly for the recall and a few for cam gears. please consider subscribing and smash that like button for us.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop just subscribed and liked the video as well! I realized my exhaust sprocket doesn’t have a phaser like the one in the video but looking at the service manual they still get lined up the same way so I should be good to install. Thanks for all the help and I’ll be sure to reach out if I have any questions, thanks again!
Well Im back. My car has low compression(105-115psi)on all cylinders, and car startups immediately shuts off. I have done a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks and have replaced most of the vacuum hose/lines with new OEM lines. Could timing be the issue here? I also did a leak down test and only had air coming out of the dip stick and oil cap. I had 40-50% leak down for all cylinders. Which means pistons aren't sealing properly? Or could timing somehow be off by like one or two teeth? Could this happen? I have used the old timing stuff, i assume this was a mistake? They looked fine, and it is a metal chain than a belt. No air/bubbles coming from radiator filler neck, no air escaping from the exhaust, not sure how to verify if air is escaping intake other than removing intake manifold.
air coming from the dipstick is a good indication you have some kinda lower end issue pistons block rings ect I don't think at this point you have a timing issue I do however think you might have something else happening as with low compression you should get a misfire the car won't normally start then shut back down sounds like electrical ECU type issue or a fuel pump concern
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop yes i forgot to mention that she doesnt want to idle unless i apply throttle at startup and then she eventually stays running. If no throttle applied the car would die immediately after startup
hey question the car can come on even if is a little bit out of timing? because we did my son car and the car coming on but is not acelerate and throw a code like is out of timing so i will like to know before we take that motor out or i be able to do with the motor inside the car?
ok hector you asked alot of questions very fast so im going to answer one at a time first yes the car can start even if its out of time we had one at the shop that one bank was 180 degrees off timing it still started kinda but ran really really bad second yes the timing can be set in the car without removing the engine i cover this in a cel video i did on my channel you should check it out also thrid I work at a Toyota dealer in Florida there are many great subbie engine shops all over the place you should not have an issue getting someone to do it however i think this can be fixed on your own with a little help and taking your time also please subscribe to the channel and share the video it really helps me grow and do more cool content like this
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop i live in florida also and my son car is a scion frs 2015 so let see what i can do my self first then if i have question can i get back to you ?
@@hectorsantiago1639 yes sir I can assure you the dealer is gonna be very pricey to fix it we are over 140 bucks per hour i don't make the prices there just so you know but I think you can set this properly if you follow the video I would first take it apart and make sure the timing looks like it is off first
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks i will do that let i will let you know if i be able to do it i think is not hard i just want to do it right i appreciatte youre response we keep in touch and thanks for all you videos they are super helpful have a great day
thanks for the kind words we work hard to make good content that is helpful to the community we would appreciate if you consider subscribing and please smash the like button its like our TH-cam report card thanks in advance
Not 100 percent sure if they are the same but I'll check in parts but I keep all bank 2 stuff in one area all bank 1 in another to keep everything straight
@@JW-rv5je i believe they are the same but I've never checked as we separate them its an excellent question for I have no answer i wish I did but I will know tomorrow and get back with you sorry
@@JW-rv5je according to my parts department the chains are the same to double-check you can count the links between the painted marks they should be the same I hope this helps let me know if you need anything else I'll try and walk you through it .
Hey so I am just wondering if you have any information on the subject. I am doing an fa20dit engine build from a 2017 wrx my stock engine has not blown its very healthy and runs great but I am looking to add alot more power so I'm building a stage 3 extreme closed deck. Can I re use my cam gears? I have been told I should replace them but I've also been told as long as they are cleane and aren't damaged I can re use them can you give me your opinion on it thank you
Yes they can be reused just know at some point they may fail and might need replacement if the motor has over 60k on it I'd think about replacing them. The biggest thing with these motors is to make sure there is no debris left inside after the build from old sealant ect
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I'm heads machined and cleaned and adding new head internals. I'm getting new oil pump/timing cover and there would be a iag certified engine builder doing this process. My stock engine has 33k on it. I may just replace them just on time crunch and shop I'm going through said that I really shouldn't need to replace them. But they would inspect and clean and if they think its needed then I will get them. If they fail what kind of damage can they do? I think I should probably just replace all 4 cam gears and get new chains
Hi I've just bought a 2011 3rd gen manual diesel forester (UK guy) and get a ticking/clatter noise under load (when going through the gears) and I'm sure at 91k miles it must be timing chain. I know you guys dont have the diesel version in USA but I should imagine that petrol versions would be the same. Please advise as I'm worried I've bought a lemon. Much appreciated.
These motors are fairly noisy when running perfectly so its hard to say without hearing it but honestly if the timing is similar to the gas model replacement of the chain guides ect in the car is only a 5 or 6 hour job
Do you know if the same marks and process apply to the fb25 out of a 2011 Subaru Forester? I will be replacing head gaskets and timing chain guide/tensioners in the process. also I greatly appreciate the use of that Queen song made me think of Shaun of the Dead. Thanks
im not 100 percent sure on that but if you set it to zero when you take it apart and the marks match the ones from this video i would say there is a very good chance there the same
The colored likes are the guide to line everything up it would be very easy to be a link off without using the colored links but once you have gone as far as taking the front cover off it's only another few bolts to remove the chain
do i need to pull the engine to replace a cam spocket LH Bottom? also i would just need to check to see if the timing is still correct, if doing a 1 for one swap?
Is there anything special to swapping out the cam sprockets or is it as simple as removing the 3 bolts while using a pin wrench to keep it steady? A shop wants to charge me 20hr or so to change them so I want to do the job myself, how long would you say swapping out all cam sprockets should take
There is nothing special just remove bolts and replace all the gears are marked just make sure you put them in the correct position the don't need to be unlocked like most toyotas. If your only doing gears this can easily be done in the car without removing the engine im gonna shoot high and say this will take you around 8 hours or so but depending on your automotive ability and access to air tools could be much faster. Without air tools worse part would be getting the crank bolt off. If you have more questions please let me know and thanks for hitting that like and subscribe button.
How do you remove a stuck oil pump drive? Mine didn't come off with the crank pulley and it won't budge at all even with a Vice wrench and a lot of force... Can't find any info on this and it's the only thing in the way from finishing the job as my timing cover is already loose
I am reading online that the ECU must be changed once the sprocket are changed and new timing done? Thank you, I have a 2017 Impreza sport and might be changing the left cam sprocket code p0011.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thanks for your reply. Based on your experience, with P0011/P000A. If you changed the VVT Solenoids and the codes keeps coming back, could it be a bad cam sprocket? or maybe it jumped timing? any information is highly appreciated.
@@Yardieautospax they normally won't just jump timing but I've replaced the gears 10 times to 1 ecu so the gears go bad often. The repair manual suggests replacement of the gear then retest if the code returns replace the ecu.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thank you so much. I go away for military training In a week, once I get home I will do the work. Will keep you updated. Thanks again
@@Yardieautospax no problem man if you run into an issue just reach out to me I've done over 30 of those motors I was the only one doing them at my shop until I left. P.s thank you for your service we really appreciate what you do.
Friend, good afternoon, I hope you can help me build a boxer engine for a subaru wrx 2015, but I get familiarity from the copilot xf side. If you can support me, what was the problem?
If I scan that, I see p0011, I put synthetic toilet 5w30 on the other hand, the vvt is where the cover of the distribution chain is, the one that carries each tree, those would be the vvt or how can I check is that I already have time with that problem
@@heribertominorperez8057 with that code you have there are a few things that can be wrong the timing could be off chain stretched The vvti gears has gone bad most likely There is no oil getting to the gear less likely The ecu is bad I've only seen this once You have a bad controller the little 2 bolt thing on the front timing cover directly infront of the timing gear I've had these fail a few times
HELP!!!! One quick question man ! I recently got tired of a Fa20 engine bro my engine had a knocking sound and im trying to do an engine swap but I wanna stick with boxer engines from subaru so what engine can I use? Or can fit on the motor mount so I wont have to do some welding and ofcorse im gonna also do the transmission swap also but what boxer engine can I use in my 2013 subaru brz man???
Hi we’re currently doing the timing as well and we set the right side up currently turned it into position and the top left can won’t move whatsoever. Also we noticed after setting timing on the driver side after turning the crank the pink marks no longer marked up with the marks on the cam. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
I would need to see a pic but by your description the timing is off it's very easy to set these wrong follow the video closely I've set up around 40 of these this method works 100 percent
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop so we had taken the chain off before turning the crank/cams to the correct location so the top left cam was stuck. We were able to get it to move to the correct position though after. Thanks for the help though,!
Hey buddy im having issues whit the code p0019 on my wrx 2015 fa20 i did built the engine and is the firt time whit this issue i double check timming and its fine but when i start the vehicle i get the code i did change new cam sprockets and cam sensor u have any advice could help
@IntelliPocalypse honestly other than needing a hoist getting the motors out of these is very simple and only takes around 40min in a shop so a couple hour task at home. But if I was just doing the timing I definitely would not remove the engine.
One more question: if you’re just putting the car back in timing, do you have to remove the chains or can you just spin the crank until the marks line up?
@@AtomSquirrel what do you mean by putting it back in timing? if the timing has not been tampered with and you don't suspect it of being off you could spin the motor over until the paint marks all line back up there is no way for me to tell you how many revolutions this might take it depends on where the marks are when you start but the right way would be to set the timing marks to zero remove the chains and set the timing from scratch of I were going to this id think about putting a new chain and maybe a new tensioner on the setup while doing it
the cams end up in a loaded position and when you take the chain off its possible they could jump and if there in the right position a valve could hit a piston
to do anything with the cams or springs like i did here yes but if your just doing the front cover or replacing the front timing gears no you can do it in the car hope that helps
not sure what you mean by a timing kit? are you looking for a chain, guide, and tensioners I'm also assuming you are looking aftermarket and if that is the case I would advise against that and go OEM on these parks as they are in the motor and very important
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I mean the timing chain assembly The chain, guides ,tensioners everything oem is fine I spun a bearing and decided to replace the timing since the engine is already out
I had a mechanic rebuild my engine after spinning a bearing and after putting the engine back in it wouldn't start. it cranks but doesn't start. It blows air out of the intake and has a humming noise coming from the intake manifold. Do you think the timing was set incorrectly?
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop yeah done it was pretty easy to do but had to do half the job twice. when i lifted the car to bolt the exhaust manifold back on i found one of the o-rings where oilpressure goes trough. must have dropped when i put the chaincover back on.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop but i did the whole job for nothing. the toyota tec diagnosed the intake sprocket as broken. so i trusted him did the job myself. after the job the noise was back there. so i just pulled the plug off every phaser and found out one phaser was shot the noise stopped when i pulled the plug.
No I had to pull the cams and do the valve springs so if just doing a front cover or a gear ect you don't have to pull the motor however I can have the motor on a stand in under an hour so
I'm getting P000A cam slow to respond bank 1. Already tried to swap oil control valves. Code stayed with cam A bank 1. I'm hearing about 2 possible causes. 1. possible oil restriction in a filter that resides behind the camshaft. 2. bad cam phaser/sprocket. I would hate to go to the trouble of replacing the cam sprocket only to find out that it's the filter. What a stupid design! Is there any diagnostic procedure that I could perform to determine with certainty that it's one or the other? How do you test the cam sprocket? I have a bi directional Autel diagnostic tablet that offers a bunch of different data pids. I can command each camshaft to varying degrees of timing as well. I have seen a diag where the guy compares live data of all four cams but this will only show the problem not the root cause. Someone also recommended that I just replace the sprocket and reverse the flow of oil through the cam at the opening for the sprocket to back flush the filter. Not sure how this would help if it's just going to run the opposite direction once started, thereby running all the blockage right back to the filter. Could I just flush the sprocket and cam together through the check ball on the phaser? Thanks! Love the video....very informational!
I always blow a small amount of air into the oil hole under the valve cover when doing the cam phasers but it is really difficult to figure out what the root cause is if you had a scope with a pressure transducer you could hook that up to the oil pressure sensor whole and look at the reading when you operate the valve if the transducer pics up a slight pressure drop when you activate the valve i'd say its operating and sending oil to the sprocket sorry I could not be more helpful on this
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I was looking under the timing and I saw one sensor but a three connection is that the crank or a cam I only found one under the car am I in the wrong area park hop
@@ricardocortez573 so I actually think I told you wrong I had to go double check and I actually believe it's on the top of the motor near the back under the intake looks like it reads off the flywheel
subaru makes a special sealant that you put in a caulk gun and it works fantastic im a big fan of it but if you cant get that any high quality rtv will work just pay attention to where you are applying it to make sure the rtv doesn't end up in places it should not be.
So my dumb ass missed the small 10mm bolt that was in between the two cam phasers, and broke the cam girdle outer on the passenger side. Now thats going to be fun to try to replace while in the car.
Hey man I really need some advise the recall about the valve springs was made on my car on 2019 on april but started hearing a knocking sound coming from the engine recently and took it to the dealership and they just took the oil pan out and found metal debree so they gave me an invoice that I need a new motor and want to charge me 10k. Should I fight for it and call corporate? If they would cover it. Also I had a mechanic who told me that on the early models the vvt were poorly made and need to updated it it to the early model ones because if the vvt fails it causes engine problems and thats exactly what I'm experiencing right now and im not only one who's experiencing the rod knocking in the engine on only early models 2013. What should I do i haven't even hit 150k miles and all of sudden I need a new engine like its sad but im trying to get help. Also they left my car outside with the windows down and the key in the Ignition and the hood open but not all the way open also the battery wasn't there and the bad part is that it was raining. Please help man any suggestions would help me alot 🙏
Honestly man these motors did have some issues I have personally seen 3 blown up lack of oil and just wear issues I have a friend at Subaru he says they put short blocks in all the time very common with metal in the pan and im assuming you have no timing vvt codes i have to assume the metal did not come from that area and its from the bottom end. I would personally put a junk yard motor in it can be done in a few hours with basic tools and will be much cheaper.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ok man and actually it did pop codes, before I took it to the dealership I took it to autozone to check it out with the codes and they print it out and the code was the VVT so what should i do? Still get a junk yard motor or tell the dealership?
good question I think this motor will continue to be used only because of its low center of gravity being able to put it so low in a chassis is why Porsche has used this for some time now
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop every Subaru that comes up to my shop (at the top of my steep hill) is smoking. that exhaust is such a design flaw if there are any leaks from the engine it just plumes smoke out of the hood. i Just got done with two smokers last week which took all my time up. 90% of the subaru's that come up to my shop smoke. The Theory of Gravity wasn't really in their mind when they designed this low center of gravity engine, in the mater of leaks. Mitsubish Evo already proved it's self faster in the slalom. if you have to lift up the engine out of the chassis to do the spark plugs and valve covers, you failed. also if a timing chain design is heavier and more prone to problems, then you failed. all i want in life is a lowered 2004 toyota tacoma turbo 2.7l I4 with subaru's symmetrical AWD! i need a bed to throw a motorcycle in and my dream is complete! I have been engineering one in my head since i started automotive school in 2000.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop one of my customers tried to put on an oil cooler on his 2017 subaru brz fa20, and i told him not to, and it started leaking. he lost oil pressure for a bit while driving home and now his engine is making a rattling under 3000 RPM and it goes away higher than that RPM. i haven't heard it yet but is this commonly a timing chain guide issue? obviously you can't advise unless you here it, but i was just wondering your take. Thanks!
@@PseudonymAliase if the gears can rattle if they loose oil pressure for extended time but most times they damage the lower end cyl 2 almost always when they loose oil pressure
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop today I told him to do an oil change and bring me up the oil and filter. he brought me the oil filter and like a half a quart of oil. i'm like where is the oil? he said that was all that came out. I'm like...Bro that oil cooler you put on just cost you an engine. he said the rattling slightly went away but it's still their. his neighbor is a subaru mechanic and told him that it was a timing chain noise at 53k miles. I'm going to go listen to it tomorrow. but yeah i showed him a link of a fa20 with 40k on it through EBAY for $4000. probably the cheaper way to go. can those engines come out the top, or only out the bottom?
I'm just going to guess you either don't know what your doing or are working on a different motor as this is the best way to set up the timing on these motors.
Thanks for posting this video, this is the first Subaru engine I've had to work on in my 30+ years of being a professional mechanic. It saved me from making a huge timing setup mistake.
no problem man when these came out the book was super confusing and there was an old tech tip on setting the timing that was much easier to understand I ended up doing all the subby engines to the tune of 38 at my shop so I got pretty good at setting these up and working on them we don't see a lot of them at the dealer now but I know other shops are still getting a lot of these so I'm glad I could help a fellow tech.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Oh I know about the confusion. Identifix doesn't have any info on this particular car, I had to go through ProDemand and all it did was confuse me because everything is broken down into sections so you have to chase each section of the head to find all the info.
I watched a couple of videos but they were just as confusing and I came across your video at closing time last night. Followed your steps, rotated it over multiple times and everything lined back up. So thanks for the clear video and explanation of the steps involved. It really saved me from making an expensive mistake.
Best timing video on an FRS I've seen so far. Thanks for going over everything a few times and showing everything in detail. Makes it easy
no problem hope i was able to help i know we had some guys at our show that had a difficult time visualizing the setup. so after i set my 5th one up i wanted to shoot a video that was a little more helpful than the manual thanks for the comment we appreciate the support.
Thanks so much im doing my first timing cover ever and it just had to be a brz and my job is trusting me with it so watching this gave me alot of information
no problem glad i could help
I have an 05 sti, this seems to be a whole other monster as far as timing is concerned. Great informative video.
Different motor sti has an EJ
Thank you, it really does help. I'm in the middle of assembling my motor and i need to learn to time and untime my car since i have to rotate the crank a few times for my new valves to seat and then check valve clearances for those pesky shims.
I was initally afraid of doing the timing since that is important and you can literally break your motor doing it, but watching your video gave me confidence. Only 'hard' thing to do is removing all that to get to the timing chain.
thank video! you should do more videos on technical engine repair stuff, youre quite good a explaining it to people.
thanks man I really appreciate it man so a little background on my self I am a shop foreman for Toyota and as such, I am always teaching people how to fix one thing or another thanks for supporting the channel I will be sure to add some more engine/ automotive technical stuff. thanks for subscribing it helps the channel grow so I can do more cool stuff like this let me know if you run into issues ive had 30is fa-20s apart for various reasons we had so many issues with others doing them my shop will only let me work on them now.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Haha, you show your expertise in this video for sure. Yea, a lot of the 2013 models have the issues. But I am assembling a built FA20 motor; 10.5:1 pistons, rods, king bearings.
I think im just afraid of moving the LH intake cam sprocket, even with the tool, to align that arrow to start timing the motor. I will for sure ask for help if needed, but honestly this video really covers all that's needed.
for future videos, just do any automotive ones. The BRZ/FRS community is quite extensive, so already this timing video has been very helpful. Most people that do guides or whatnot aren't certified mechanics, so all those guides are mostly what they have done, it works but it won't always be how the factory or best way to do it.
Muchas saludos como cambiar los empaque de culata
Thanks, for info. Just got a 2016 FRS that's got a knock at start up and lots of chain noise. Probably going to have to get new short block. Certified mech but fairly new at chain engines.
Best video I've seen on the topic so far. Thank you for the information
thanks for the kind words hopefully you'll subscribe to the channel it helps me make more cool videos like this I also did a video on the 2gr-fks that sometimes need cylinder heads replaced for worn valve guides pretty cool video as well
I want it to hear when you turn it over because mine when I have the timing all set up and I turned the engine by hand the intake RH vvt sproket makes a flapping noise and the phase plate jumps back and forth it's that normal ??? can some one help please and thank you
Thank you so much for this! Way easier to understand than manual. Only had done small block chevys until now so was a bit confused with the service manual.
no problem glad it helped I was lost also but I found a cool tech tip from a tsb from a long time ago and I knew I couldn't be the only one having trouble so I did this video and 37 of these recalls so I got pretty good at this. thanks for your support
Today my engine seized so I will be pulling the motor. Thanks for the video. First I had to do a timing cover leak repair but before I got to it the engine seized when I boosted it.
Sorry to hear about the engine issue I want to put a 2jz in one of these or ej25 from the sti
Most helpful video Ive watched yet; my only question is.. If I did all that and rolled the engine over a couple of times like he said and I get maybe 90degree turn and I feel it lock up?
If you feel it hit something stop and double check the timing it should roll over smoothly with the plugs out you will feel some resistance in a few places but not a hard stop
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thank You! The plugs are in 😓, hopefully I can get this running today/tomorrow. This is my first real fix/rebuild (from head-gaskets) w/ no help. Also doing it with the engine inside the vehicle.. Fun stuff 🤌🏼
@@alexanderkillips3121 pull the plugs while rotating the motor it makes finding out if your hitting something easier
Great Video...you should do more videos like this on Subarus. Very helpful!!!1
Great Video. Even better explenation. I'm currently having an issue where the Painted Arrows on the RH side were NOT aligned from the start (A few degrees off) , obviously they do not match after confirming that Painted Chain Links are in their correct locations. Can the Cam Phasers be an issue?
Yes also we had a chain that was stretch that caused the marks to be off and also some have said if the cylinder heads were machined alot it could cause the marks to be off but to answer your question more directly the phasers can be bad. On the one that we had that was off when we tore it down we recommend the chain and phasers be replaced
Great video! I have a 2014 Subaru Impreza (FB20). I’m replacing the chains and and crank shaft gear as well as the tensioners due to improper light weight pulley installed. Anyways, I was wondering if the timing is set the same as the FA20? Thank you in advance!
Honestly haven't had one apart but looking at the manual they seem to be very similar
Thank you so much 🤙🏾
After I took off the front engine cover. I tried to check the all the arrows before I took the chain off. I notice that the left side arrows don’t align with the right side. I tried to also check the pink markings on the chain to see if it aligns on the line but they don’t. The car was running fine until the front crank shaft gear teeth broke. Do you recommend anything? To be able to removed and replace chains? Please if you could email me at
ramirezhernandezaldo@yahoo.com
I would really appreciated, this is my only vehicle and living in Hawaii is very hard. Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge 🙏
@@aldoramirezhernandez7920 the arrows from the left bank point at each other as do the right bank if there already off time you can take the chains off and roll the cams to the proper position just go slow and if you feel like you bump into something move the crank a bit then turn the cams a bit more and follow the video for setting the timing let me know if you need more help
Super cool to watch, Subaru and Toyota ❤
Thank you for the vid. Really helpful and informative. But I'd like to ask, what was the reason to replace all spring? Why I asking is because I have fb25b engine and it has slight tapping noise coming from the left bank, the driver's side. I was told that it is a common problem on fb engines and usually can be fixed by replacing spring and rockers. Just wondering. I'll be doing some work on my fb and thought I could get it fixed while I there. Thanks
It's a recall for the fa20 engine only in 2013
Can this be done while the motor is still in the car? What is the service life of the chains/guides/tensioners, is there a recommended replacement interval? Thanks for the video!
Yes it can be done with engine in. We had it out to replace the valve springs. I'd say if 150k would be a good number buy it you wanted to be cautious you could do it at 100k
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I appreciate the response! Thanks!
I have seen in the service manual that mentions the key will be facing down when in time but you show the pin as facing str8 up? I assume the lock key and pin are in different positions. Also if you turn the crank around and the engine turns out not to be in time or is off what happens and how to you fix it? Can you turn the exhaust and intake cam sprockets as needed to position in right and turn the crank by hand to get it set in the right position?
If you rotate it over the arrows should line up if they don't the timing is off yes the key way and pin are different the repair manual procedure is pretty crappy so this is tech tip
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks
HI I HAVE 2015 SUBARU FORESTER FB25 ENGINE AND I JUST WANT TO REPLACE THE CHAIN TENSIONERS. HOW TO SET THE TIMING? JUST LINE UP THE TRIANGLES AND REPLACE ONE BY ONE?
Yes essentially it's very similar but I would look up the timing mark diagram from a subaru manual unfortunately I don't have access to that as I was at Toyota.
thank you very much
great video, just a fee questions, what tool do you use to remove the valve springs/install them, and what tool is use to remove the valve stem guide that holds in the seat for the valve spring?
It's a toyota special tool ill get the part number for you
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop sweet deal, much appreciated, also im trying to find the tool to remove the valve seal, to get at the seat for the valve spring. bought a valve seal remover kit on Amazon, and sadly that fid not work.
Subscribed and saved for working on my newtome 2013 Outback 2.5i
Glad I could help have a 2.0l torn down currently had a rod knock waiting on parts.
I have another question for you. I took my fa20 heads to the machine shop and they aren’t sure if the valves are hydraulic or not. They asked me to bring in the cam assemblies too. If they reseat the valves will they have to grind off part of the stem to keep the correct valve clearance? Any advice I would be thankful.
yes they will grind the stem a small amount to keep the valve lash correct it seems like the machine shop you choose knows what they are talking about as some shops will just cut them and send them to you
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thank You
Great video, long story short I was sealing up the timing cover and during the reinstall I messed up the woodruff key that lines up with spockets on the crank. I need to replace that Key and I assume the timing chains need to be removed and sprocket. Is the sprockets easily removed or somewhat pressed on?
Thanks in advance
Yeah it slides off the front after the chains are removed
forgot to mention that the engine is a fb25. Is it safe to assume same procedure?
@@larrypapke6159 I would assume so as well however I have not done a 25
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop When I got home I check the colored links on passanger side or right side and after turning the crank over several times I could not get the colored link to be inline with the marks. Is this normal? I can't see the chain jumping the sprockets.???
@@larrypapke6159 so you set them all up then turned the crank over and the paint doesn't line up? If that's the case it's normal you would need to turn the engine over like 50 times to get the marks to all line back up
What happens if you don’t roll the motor back while taking off the driver side head. I already have the heads off and back on the motor and nothing seems damaged but I definitely did not disassemble it properly.
It's just a good practice normally nothing happens but when you take the chain off with the cams it can spring forward or back and hit a valve but it's extremely unlikely
Are you rolling the motor counter clock wise because of pre -load on the cams / phasers? And thats when it is on time is that right our am I wrong ? Thanks
Thank you so much for this video. Is there anything that could damage the HPFP or DI system electrical intermittently after doing these valve springs? I had the cam carriers overtorqued by mistake on that bank with the pump.. and now throwing codes for P062D and P1235... I can't imagine wear on the triangular lobes or the pump roller would happen that quickly.
I've never had any damage to the di system with doing these but anything is possible possible debris got in there
What work did you do on the heads? Also, is it enough to clean the mating surfaces where the silicon gasket goes only with a razor blade? The wire wheels seems to do a better (and faster) job in cleaning it properly, leaving some scratches though.
Replaced valve springs and cleaning with a razor blade is the approved toyota way. But the wire wheel is much easier and I do use one but I didn't want people who haven't done this before messing up the surfaces with over use of a wire wheel thanks for your interest.
Hi, Thanks for the detailed video! I have 2 questions. How do you know when the crank is straight up and then to the right to get the right chain on? also how do you get off stubborn bolts? they are 1/2 inch bolts right?
The crank key way points up and what bolts are u having issues with front cover bolts? Everything on that motor is pretty much 10mm 12mm ot 14mm
Hey just out of curiosity but if I were to remove the camshaft sprocket on the passenger side of the motor, would I have to do anything with the driver side timing wise or can I just lock both driver cam sprockets in place?
No as long as it doesn't move at all
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thank you so much! That honestly just saved me a headache. I’m preparing myself to get this job done for my car but I’ve never messed with timing before lol. One more question btw, do I have to pull the motor out in order to do this or do you believe there’s enough room in the engine bay to pull the timing cover off while inside the car still?
Is this the same directions you would use on a 2015 wrx with the fa20? I cant find any videos as detailed and as well made as yours . This awesome 👍
Yes it is thanks for your support
Can you replace the chains, tensioner & guides while it’s in the car? Or you have to take out engine? I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza FB20 motor…video was very informative! Thank you! Great work!
you can replace the chains guides and gears while the engine is in the car I had it out to put valve springs in.
Hey I’m about to have this done to my FRS I was just wondering about how long it took to do the timing? And about how much it was to do it?
It takes about 3 to 5 hours depending on what is getting replaced and how much cleaning is needed for the job. I did these under warranty so I'm guessing a little here but I think it's around 6 to 8 hours of labor at whatever the shoo rate is
I'm doing a fa20 but the driver side top cam kicks in and out how do I know what's right I guess it the variable timing sprocket to change timing when it's running it moves left to right I've tore this car apart 4 times already I got a p0019
not sure what you mean by it kicks in and out im guessing you mean its moving when setting the timing if you set the timing right and the code keeps coming back you could have a bad controller or and oil clog and sometimes the ecu can cause this fault.
Great video thank you. Quick Q:can I simply place my cams back on (LH BANK) and reseal or do I need to adjust the cam or the crank?
If you take them off and return them to the proper location you can do that as its like setting 2 separate 2cyl engines
That Disney Guy Thanks. Bearings come in Monday🤙🏼 Ill be attempting to put her back together.
Hello! I have a 14 brz with a 2020 gt86 fa20 swapped into it, I have all 4 cam crank correlation codes p0016, 17, 18, and 19, engine is in time, wiring harness is good, I swapped all cam and crank sensors from old engine to see if that would fix it but no luck I'm at a loss any advise would be much appreciated! Runs and drives fine after I clear CEL!
I have a few suggestions so at some point on these they changed the cams so if you have an ecu for the old cams in the car but a motor with the new cams that could be an issue. call a dealer with the vins and see if the camshaft part numbers are the same i would do the same with the cam phasers/gears. after that I would say you have a bad ECU I hope this helps please comment back if it does
Good video man! Very informative!
thanks there was very little info or how to vids on this engine and since ive taken many apart and had some people contact me to help with setting the timing on these I thought ahh let me put a vid out hope it helps someone,anyone.
After you remove left timing chain why do you need to turn the crank to then remove the right timing chain? Thank You
To put the cams on that side in an unloaded position this way they don't spring one way or the other and possibly damage internal parts
Thank You for explaining that.
From the bottom of my empty wallet, I thank you for posting this information.
I feel your pain man we have 2 and 4 scooters its a total addiction. but i guess there are worse things to be addicted to. like theme parks. lol thanks for commenting and supporting the channel
how do I know the cam it self is in the right position ? Are the cam gears only installed 1 way ?
yes you can only install the gear one way
how does a p219a code come about ?? also is that fixable without taking the engine out ?? ( prolly a stupid question) )
Bro ! Where is your shop to take you my 2013 Scion FR-S . It has rod knock :(
I'm in Florida man I'd consider buying an upgraded short block if you're thinking of keeping this thing there kinda a nightmare to do the short block
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks for replying brother ! Any good short block you recommend
@@josuepaz9767 crawfordperformance.com/products/crawford-built-short-block-wrx-fa20-dit check them out good stuff here I know its pricey but you gotta pay to play.
thanks for the support make sure you share the video around the community helps the channel grow so I can do more cool videos for everyone
Good morning! how many km should the chains be replaced? thank you
I wouldn't worry about the chains unless for over 150k
What RV glue you recommend
Factory subaru stuff
Will this be exactly the same for a 2020 wrx fa20dit engine?
Should be
I'm replacing my valve seals on my 2015 WRX along with replacing the springs, spring seats and retainers with the GSC single spring kit. I noticed in the video you removed the cam gears with the cams all in 1 piece (from how it looked). How did you prevent the valves from dropping into the cylinder while you were replacing the springs?
We have a tool that pressurized both cylinders at once that's the best way to do it
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop how much psi do you use to pressurize each cylinder? Also, do you have a link to the spring compressor tool you used? That looks way easier and safer than most other spring compressor tools I have seen.
@@taylorpeters2833 I will try and get part numbers off tools tomorrow they are toyota special tools for our shop but they work great and they work on other engines I use around 90 psi I will get part numbers from that tool as well but there are alot of great aftermarket tools out there that you can preform this task with as well
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop awesome, thank you! I'm starting the engine removal on friday so keep me posted on what you can find! Appreciate it!
So on that right bank my top cam doesn’t move to the correct spot it gets stuck like it’s on something
Yes the right bank will stay
so i only had to replace the driver side intake cam gear so i tried to only take that chain off and put it back where it was but when i spun the motor over by hand one of the arrows didnt line up. i think it was only off by one tooth, would there be any potential damage done by that? i did feel a little bit of resistance at one point when turning it over, that couldnt have been enough to bend a valve could it?
its possible but not likely im not sure what your definition of a little resistance is as everyone has a different interpretation but as long as you didn't force it with like a breaker bar into the valves you should be ok this is why I recommend taking all the plugs out if you feel resistance with the plugs out def stop and just rotate the crank slightly then move the cam. I think you are going to be ok please let us know when its all back together and hopefully we were able to help.
I got it back together and timed correctly. Seems to run fine but one key cycle and my p0016 comes back. Maybe the ecm needs to be reflashed?
@@MeLikeyHitStuff I believe it's a replacement of the ecu not a reflash
Many thanks for you
No problem glad I was able to help thanks for helping us by subscribing to the channel
What tool did you use to rotate the cam sprockets?
It's a cam holder tool it has two adjustable pins attached to a handle and makes it easy to turn the gears
Is it necessary to roll the engine over a few times at the end? I did not mark the crank pulley so it seems useless to do that. I have all the markings in the right place though. Thanks
Not at all
Do you have the link for the tool you used to hold adjust the cam?
harbor freight pin tool is all you need its a handle with adjustable pins on the front the pins fit in the gears and allow you to move them
when you take the caps off the valves don't you have to document the height of the caps for the correct valve lash?
I place them on a sheet in order so I can place them back in there same position but yes
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ok cool question then, had a machine shop do the heads and gave me all the caps back in a bag with no reference so after going through hell getting the caps where they go, I have 2-3 valves that could use another thousandth or 2 tighter and looser, will the hydraulic lifters compensate for that much or am I going to get a clatter box when I fire it up
great video by the way
@@colbyC1007 we usually have the machine shop grind the tops of the valves so everything is with in spec i like to be on tight side of the spec but normally when we have one of these apart its to replace the springs so we put the caps back where they came from so we almost never measure them. Thanks for the support it the video helped you get it all back together.
I purchased a new short block, and am using heads and cam boxes from old shortblock. To set the timing, do I need to get the new short block to TDC before installing the timing chains?
Yes just roll it slow to prevent it hitting valves that might be open you may have to move the camshafts slightly when rolling the bottom end over
Hey man, is the bank 1 intake cam supposed to click when checking all timing ? The sprocket clicks when checking?
It will click when turning the cam yes
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thank you for the reply, does it go away on first start up, kind of scared to put it in with that click from right side intake cam.
@@gsohi9700 so right now with no oil pressure the gear kinda never locks and makes some noise it should go away when you start it but if you think the gear is bad I would replace it while you are there
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks, when I removed everything it was fine, was sealing cam carriers. So it is only clicking due to oil pressure not present correct? As it was fine during removal. Thanks for help
@@gsohi9700 yeah in my experience they click when they dont have oil pressure
How about one that shows all the O rings that go in for the cover?..
i'll see if i can find a picture of that
Why can’t I just line up all the arrows as you mention and slap the chains on instead of doing the left bank and rotating it to install the right bank. Seems like it’s a matter of just lining up the arrows and holding them there as long as the crank is right.
the motor is loaded when the arrows are pointing at each other on the right bank so you would have to lock both gears to attempt doing that way also the crank link is in a weird spot during this time. when you time this its basically like timing 2 different engines so you time the right bank then rotate over and time the left bank its really the easiest way to do it. The reason I did the video was the instructions in the manual are super confusing and they have you do the procedure different this instruction is from an old TSB that was out when the motor was first released and it makes setting the timing much easier I just wanted to help other people that might be struggling with this
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop makes a lot of sense, I appreciate the quick reply. One last question if you don’t mind, the engine had metal shavings which have been cleaned out prior to assembly. I removed the oil pump plate in the back of the timing cover to expose the oil pump as well as the plates next to it that house those oil channels to make sure that looked good and was cleaned anyway but I noticed there was no sealant. I put it back together but wonder if I should add sealant to those plates that get held on by Phillips screws (used impact driver to set them) to ensure I don’t lose oil pressure?
@@brunoc9376 no need for any sealant and I would not put any there as if it somehow becomes lose it will get sucked into places that are not good. when we were doing these recalls my Toyota rep told me there were a few dealers that had them come back with rod knocks and the problem was lack of cleaning so when they would clean the old sealant they left all the pieces to float around and that clogged the screen and the rest is history. please let me know if you run into any snags I will try and walk you through it I was the only tech and still am the only tech at my shop that they let work on these I've had 38 apart mostly for the recall and a few for cam gears. please consider subscribing and smash that like button for us.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop just subscribed and liked the video as well! I realized my exhaust sprocket doesn’t have a phaser like the one in the video but looking at the service manual they still get lined up the same way so I should be good to install. Thanks for all the help and I’ll be sure to reach out if I have any questions, thanks again!
With a brand new short block does the engine need to be at TDC or should I follow the crank marks even if it ends up not being TDC?
Follow the crank marks as in the video and you will be fine
is it possible to heat up the block with a heat gun to help loosen the glue prior to prying the cover ?
No ive pulled them out still hot it doesn't matter
How do u take the tension off the chain
Well Im back. My car has low compression(105-115psi)on all cylinders, and car startups immediately shuts off. I have done a smoke test to check for vacuum leaks and have replaced most of the vacuum hose/lines with new OEM lines. Could timing be the issue here? I also did a leak down test and only had air coming out of the dip stick and oil cap. I had 40-50% leak down for all cylinders. Which means pistons aren't sealing properly? Or could timing somehow be off by like one or two teeth? Could this happen? I have used the old timing stuff, i assume this was a mistake? They looked fine, and it is a metal chain than a belt.
No air/bubbles coming from radiator filler neck, no air escaping from the exhaust, not sure how to verify if air is escaping intake other than removing intake manifold.
air coming from the dipstick is a good indication you have some kinda lower end issue pistons block rings ect I don't think at this point you have a timing issue I do however think you might have something else happening as with low compression you should get a misfire the car won't normally start then shut back down sounds like electrical ECU type issue or a fuel pump concern
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop yes i forgot to mention that she doesnt want to idle unless i apply throttle at startup and then she eventually stays running. If no throttle applied the car would die immediately after startup
hey question the car can come on even if is a little bit out of timing? because we did my son car and the car coming on but is not acelerate and throw a code like is out of timing so i will like to know before we take that motor out or i be able to do with the motor inside the car?
ok hector you asked alot of questions very fast so im going to answer one at a time
first yes the car can start even if its out of time we had one at the shop that one bank was 180 degrees off timing it still started kinda but ran really really bad
second yes the timing can be set in the car without removing the engine i cover this in a cel video i did on my channel you should check it out also
thrid I work at a Toyota dealer in Florida there are many great subbie engine shops all over the place you should not have an issue getting someone to do it however i think this can be fixed on your own with a little help and taking your time also please subscribe to the channel and share the video it really helps me grow and do more cool content like this
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop i live in florida also and my son car is a scion frs 2015 so let see what i can do my self first then if i have question can i get back to you ?
@@hectorsantiago1639 yes sir I can assure you the dealer is gonna be very pricey to fix it we are over 140 bucks per hour i don't make the prices there just so you know but I think you can set this properly if you follow the video I would first take it apart and make sure the timing looks like it is off first
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks i will do that let i will let you know if i be able to do it i think is not hard i just want to do it right i appreciatte youre response we keep in touch and thanks for all you videos they are super helpful have a great day
If I'm doing this while it is in the car do I need to drain the oil and coolant ?
Yes sir
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop what can i use to move the intake cam if I do not have that $500 Lexus cam pliers ?
@@resuort pull the plugs you can move them by hand harbor freight has a cheap tool that has pins in it looks like the Toyota one but it's cheap
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop i have angled needle nose would that be sufficient ?
Nice video, appreciate it!
thanks for the kind words we work hard to make good content that is helpful to the community we would appreciate if you consider subscribing and please smash the like button its like our TH-cam report card thanks in advance
are the chains for right and left sides interchangable? if not, how do you tell them apart?
Not 100 percent sure if they are the same but I'll check in parts but I keep all bank 2 stuff in one area all bank 1 in another to keep everything straight
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop no doubt you guys segregate all the parts. Just asking as I’m in the middle of this rebuild 😛
@@JW-rv5je i believe they are the same but I've never checked as we separate them its an excellent question for I have no answer i wish I did but I will know tomorrow and get back with you sorry
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop no worries!
@@JW-rv5je according to my parts department the chains are the same to double-check you can count the links between the painted marks they should be the same I hope this helps let me know if you need anything else I'll try and walk you through it .
Hey so I am just wondering if you have any information on the subject. I am doing an fa20dit engine build from a 2017 wrx my stock engine has not blown its very healthy and runs great but I am looking to add alot more power so I'm building a stage 3 extreme closed deck. Can I re use my cam gears? I have been told I should replace them but I've also been told as long as they are cleane and aren't damaged I can re use them can you give me your opinion on it thank you
Yes they can be reused just know at some point they may fail and might need replacement if the motor has over 60k on it I'd think about replacing them. The biggest thing with these motors is to make sure there is no debris left inside after the build from old sealant ect
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I'm heads machined and cleaned and adding new head internals. I'm getting new oil pump/timing cover and there would be a iag certified engine builder doing this process. My stock engine has 33k on it. I may just replace them just on time crunch and shop I'm going through said that I really shouldn't need to replace them. But they would inspect and clean and if they think its needed then I will get them. If they fail what kind of damage can they do? I think I should probably just replace all 4 cam gears and get new chains
Hi I've just bought a 2011 3rd gen manual diesel forester (UK guy) and get a ticking/clatter noise under load (when going through the gears) and I'm sure at 91k miles it must be timing chain. I know you guys dont have the diesel version in USA but I should imagine that petrol versions would be the same. Please advise as I'm worried I've bought a lemon. Much appreciated.
These motors are fairly noisy when running perfectly so its hard to say without hearing it but honestly if the timing is similar to the gas model replacement of the chain guides ect in the car is only a 5 or 6 hour job
Disney, thankyou for advice. Much appreciated bro. Keep the vlogs coming thick n fast...
Do you know if the same marks and process apply to the fb25 out of a 2011 Subaru Forester? I will be replacing head gaskets and timing chain guide/tensioners in the process. also I greatly appreciate the use of that Queen song made me think of Shaun of the Dead. Thanks
im not 100 percent sure on that but if you set it to zero when you take it apart and the marks match the ones from this video i would say there is a very good chance there the same
Yes they are. I know it’s a year ago. But I rebuilt my fb25 and it’s the same
why does it matter where the colored links are since they are all the same size?
The colored likes are the guide to line everything up it would be very easy to be a link off without using the colored links but once you have gone as far as taking the front cover off it's only another few bolts to remove the chain
Thx man
No problem hope the video helped
also where you located so i can bring this car to you
do i need to pull the engine to replace a cam spocket LH Bottom? also i would just need to check to see if the timing is still correct, if doing a 1 for one swap?
No
Is there anything special to swapping out the cam sprockets or is it as simple as removing the 3 bolts while using a pin wrench to keep it steady? A shop wants to charge me 20hr or so to change them so I want to do the job myself, how long would you say swapping out all cam sprockets should take
There is nothing special just remove bolts and replace all the gears are marked just make sure you put them in the correct position the don't need to be unlocked like most toyotas. If your only doing gears this can easily be done in the car without removing the engine im gonna shoot high and say this will take you around 8 hours or so but depending on your automotive ability and access to air tools could be much faster. Without air tools worse part would be getting the crank bolt off. If you have more questions please let me know and thanks for hitting that like and subscribe button.
How do you remove a stuck oil pump drive? Mine didn't come off with the crank pulley and it won't budge at all even with a Vice wrench and a lot of force... Can't find any info on this and it's the only thing in the way from finishing the job as my timing cover is already loose
Never mind I was able to take it off
@@jaybelle1909 sry I just got your message I see you already got it off but light taping while pulling will usually pull it out
I am reading online that the ECU must be changed once the sprocket are changed and new timing done? Thank you, I have a 2017 Impreza sport and might be changing the left cam sprocket code p0011.
You only replace the ecu if the code returns
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thanks for your reply. Based on your experience, with P0011/P000A. If you changed the VVT Solenoids and the codes keeps coming back, could it be a bad cam sprocket? or maybe it jumped timing? any information is highly appreciated.
@@Yardieautospax they normally won't just jump timing but I've replaced the gears 10 times to 1 ecu so the gears go bad often. The repair manual suggests replacement of the gear then retest if the code returns replace the ecu.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thank you so much. I go away for military training In a week, once I get home I will do the work. Will keep you updated. Thanks again
@@Yardieautospax no problem man if you run into an issue just reach out to me I've done over 30 of those motors I was the only one doing them at my shop until I left. P.s thank you for your service we really appreciate what you do.
Whats the Part number on that o ring you said to replace so the front seal doesnt leak?
Inner Pulley O-Ring - Subaru (806939060
I believe this is the Subaru number you need.
Friend, good afternoon, I hope you can help me build a boxer engine for a subaru wrx 2015, but I get familiarity from the copilot xf side. If you can support me, what was the problem?
The problem with this engine was the valve springs were faulty so they were all replaced.
a ok the detail is that the rattle occurs when it is hot
@@heribertominorperez8057 so you have a rattle when hot? Could be valve lash issue or vvt gear ⚙ most times you get a code with a bad gear
If I scan that, I see p0011, I put synthetic toilet 5w30 on the other hand, the vvt is where the cover of the distribution chain is, the one that carries each tree, those would be the vvt or how can I check is that I already have time with that problem
@@heribertominorperez8057 with that code you have there are a few things that can be wrong the
timing could be off chain stretched
The vvti gears has gone bad most likely
There is no oil getting to the gear less likely
The ecu is bad I've only seen this once
You have a bad controller the little 2 bolt thing on the front timing cover directly infront of the timing gear I've had these fail a few times
HELP!!!! One quick question man ! I recently got tired of a Fa20 engine bro my engine had a knocking sound and im trying to do an engine swap but I wanna stick with boxer engines from subaru so what engine can I use? Or can fit on the motor mount so I wont have to do some welding and ofcorse im gonna also do the transmission swap also but what boxer engine can I use in my 2013 subaru brz man???
Hi we’re currently doing the timing as well and we set the right side up currently turned it into position and the top left can won’t move whatsoever. Also we noticed after setting timing on the driver side after turning the crank the pink marks no longer marked up with the marks on the cam. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated!
I would need to see a pic but by your description the timing is off it's very easy to set these wrong follow the video closely I've set up around 40 of these this method works 100 percent
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop so we had taken the chain off before turning the crank/cams to the correct location so the top left cam was stuck. We were able to get it to move to the correct position though after. Thanks for the help though,!
Hey buddy im having issues whit the code p0019 on my wrx 2015 fa20 i did built the engine and is the firt time whit this issue i double check timming and its fine but when i start the vehicle i get the code i did change new cam sprockets and cam sensor u have any advice could help
Check the filters for debris the ecu seems to be common on these although I've never had one fail it's always been a gear.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop new filter oil and everithyng oil also
@@marcogiron4260 filters in talking about are in the head they are screens/filters for the gears
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ooo yeah iknow wich ones perfecto i will check those
@marcogiron4260 somes times old sealant gets caught up in them and prevents the gear from activating
Thank you
No problem hope this helped you.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop lots thanks
Can you do this while the engine is in the car?
Yes 100 percent we had the engines out to replace the valve springs.but the timing can be done in the car
Awesome! Thanks for the response. Gives me a little more hope fixing the car
@IntelliPocalypse honestly other than needing a hoist getting the motors out of these is very simple and only takes around 40min in a shop so a couple hour task at home. But if I was just doing the timing I definitely would not remove the engine.
One more question: if you’re just putting the car back in timing, do you have to remove the chains or can you just spin the crank until the marks line up?
@@AtomSquirrel what do you mean by putting it back in timing? if the timing has not been tampered with and you don't suspect it of being off you could spin the motor over until the paint marks all line back up there is no way for me to tell you how many revolutions this might take it depends on where the marks are when you start but the right way would be to set the timing marks to zero remove the chains and set the timing from scratch of I were going to this id think about putting a new chain and maybe a new tensioner on the setup while doing it
Thank you very much!
hopefully the video helped and hopefully you consider subscribing to the channel to help us
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Done!!
@@zacharybryant4254 thanks man appreciate the support
What happens if you dont set the banks a certain way and just take off the timing chains anyway
the cams end up in a loaded position and when you take the chain off its possible they could jump and if there in the right position a valve could hit a piston
Does it require the motor to be pulled?
to do anything with the cams or springs like i did here yes but if your just doing the front cover or replacing the front timing gears no you can do it in the car hope that helps
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I need to replace the 4 cam sprockets and didn’t want to pull the motor if it was unnecessary. Thanks!
@@fousaelee4202 you can do it in the car for sure did a video on that as well had some gears go bad. th-cam.com/video/OCQ5YiQ1pjQ/w-d-xo.html
I can’t find a timing kit for my 2016 frs only for 2015 would that be an issue
not sure what you mean by a timing kit? are you looking for a chain, guide, and tensioners I'm also assuming you are looking aftermarket and if that is the case I would advise against that and go OEM on these parks as they are in the motor and very important
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I mean the timing chain assembly
The chain, guides ,tensioners everything oem is fine
I spun a bearing and decided to replace the timing since the engine is already out
@@Chavito-eightsix I would get a chain from the dealer personally
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ok coo I appreciate the quick reply
Thanks for video too lol
@@Chavito-eightsix no problem I'm checking on the chain parts here at my dealer please consider subscribing it helps me do more stuff like this
I had a mechanic rebuild my engine after spinning a bearing and after putting the engine back in it wouldn't start. it cranks but doesn't start. It blows air out of the intake and has a humming noise coming from the intake manifold. Do you think the timing was set incorrectly?
You have any codes? Timing over retarted code or over advanced code is a dead give away but people set these up wrong all the time
do you have to take the motor out?
no not to do the chains or front cover we had the motor out to replace the valve springs
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop what about the intake sprocket?
@@cosdonamo nope you can do it in the car no problem
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop yeah done it was pretty easy to do but had to do half the job twice.
when i lifted the car to bolt the exhaust manifold back on i found one of the o-rings where oilpressure goes trough. must have dropped when i put the chaincover back on.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop but i did the whole job for nothing. the toyota tec diagnosed the intake sprocket as broken.
so i trusted him did the job myself. after the job the noise was back there. so i just pulled the plug off every phaser and found out one phaser was shot the noise stopped when i pulled the plug.
Thank you
😉
do you really need to pull the engine to do the timing/
No I had to pull the cams and do the valve springs so if just doing a front cover or a gear ect you don't have to pull the motor however I can have the motor on a stand in under an hour so
Thanks amigo I just want to see that
Any tips on removing the cover plate?
What cover plate are you specifically asking about ill try and help you
I'm getting P000A cam slow to respond bank 1. Already tried to swap oil control valves. Code stayed with cam A bank 1. I'm hearing about 2 possible causes. 1. possible oil restriction in a filter that resides behind the camshaft. 2. bad cam phaser/sprocket. I would hate to go to the trouble of replacing the cam sprocket only to find out that it's the filter. What a stupid design! Is there any diagnostic procedure that I could perform to determine with certainty that it's one or the other? How do you test the cam sprocket? I have a bi directional Autel diagnostic tablet that offers a bunch of different data pids. I can command each camshaft to varying degrees of timing as well. I have seen a diag where the guy compares live data of all four cams but this will only show the problem not the root cause. Someone also recommended that I just replace the sprocket and reverse the flow of oil through the cam at the opening for the sprocket to back flush the filter. Not sure how this would help if it's just going to run the opposite direction once started, thereby running all the blockage right back to the filter. Could I just flush the sprocket and cam together through the check ball on the phaser? Thanks! Love the video....very informational!
I always blow a small amount of air into the oil hole under the valve cover when doing the cam phasers but it is really difficult to figure out what the root cause is if you had a scope with a pressure transducer you could hook that up to the oil pressure sensor whole and look at the reading when you operate the valve if the transducer pics up a slight pressure drop when you activate the valve i'd say its operating and sending oil to the sprocket sorry I could not be more helpful on this
Does anyone know where is the crank shaft sensor A located at
@Park Hope Till We Drop do you know where it’s at ???
@@ricardocortez573 there is only one crank sensor it's at the bottom of the timing cover there are 2 cam sensors tho
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks man for the help 👍🏽
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I was looking under the timing and I saw one sensor but a three connection is that the crank or a cam I only found one under the car am I in the wrong area park hop
@@ricardocortez573 so I actually think I told you wrong I had to go double check and I actually believe it's on the top of the motor near the back under the intake looks like it reads off the flywheel
What kind of gasket sealant is best to use
subaru makes a special sealant that you put in a caulk gun and it works fantastic im a big fan of it but if you cant get that any high quality rtv will work just pay attention to where you are applying it to make sure the rtv doesn't end up in places it should not be.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks!
@@Maul_Brz fo-shizzle
Awesome!
Your awsome man!
thanks for the kind words I appreciate the support hopefully you hit that like and subscribe button
So my dumb ass missed the small 10mm bolt that was in between the two cam phasers, and broke the cam girdle outer on the passenger side. Now thats going to be fun to try to replace while in the car.
Ohhh no that's not good
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop well i got it off while in the car. Getting it back on, on the other hand, may be a little tricky.
@@resuort yeah that doesn't sound like much fun you might regret not taking the extra hour to pull that motor
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop yeah didnt have access to a cherry picker. Gotta deal with what i got.
@@resuort I completely understand
Hey man I really need some advise the recall about the valve springs was made on my car on 2019 on april but started hearing a knocking sound coming from the engine recently and took it to the dealership and they just took the oil pan out and found metal debree so they gave me an invoice that I need a new motor and want to charge me 10k. Should I fight for it and call corporate? If they would cover it. Also I had a mechanic who told me that on the early models the vvt were poorly made and need to updated it it to the early model ones because if the vvt fails it causes engine problems and thats exactly what I'm experiencing right now and im not only one who's experiencing the rod knocking in the engine on only early models 2013. What should I do i haven't even hit 150k miles and all of sudden I need a new engine like its sad but im trying to get help. Also they left my car outside with the windows down and the key in the Ignition and the hood open but not all the way open also the battery wasn't there and the bad part is that it was raining. Please help man any suggestions would help me alot 🙏
Honestly man these motors did have some issues I have personally seen 3 blown up lack of oil and just wear issues I have a friend at Subaru he says they put short blocks in all the time very common with metal in the pan and im assuming you have no timing vvt codes i have to assume the metal did not come from that area and its from the bottom end. I would personally put a junk yard motor in it can be done in a few hours with basic tools and will be much cheaper.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ok man and actually it did pop codes, before I took it to the dealership I took it to autozone to check it out with the codes and they print it out and the code was the VVT so what should i do? Still get a junk yard motor or tell the dealership?
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop and I do have the code in paper from autozone
so when is Subaru going to come to their senses and make an inline 4cyl?
good question I think this motor will continue to be used only because of its low center of gravity being able to put it so low in a chassis is why Porsche has used this for some time now
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop every Subaru that comes up to my shop (at the top of my steep hill) is smoking. that exhaust is such a design flaw if there are any leaks from the engine it just plumes smoke out of the hood. i Just got done with two smokers last week which took all my time up. 90% of the subaru's that come up to my shop smoke. The Theory of Gravity wasn't really in their mind when they designed this low center of gravity engine, in the mater of leaks. Mitsubish Evo already proved it's self faster in the slalom.
if you have to lift up the engine out of the chassis to do the spark plugs and valve covers, you failed. also if a timing chain design is heavier and more prone to problems, then you failed.
all i want in life is a lowered 2004 toyota tacoma turbo 2.7l I4 with subaru's symmetrical AWD! i need a bed to throw a motorcycle in and my dream is complete! I have been engineering one in my head since i started automotive school in 2000.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop one of my customers tried to put on an oil cooler on his 2017 subaru brz fa20, and i told him not to, and it started leaking. he lost oil pressure for a bit while driving home and now his engine is making a rattling under 3000 RPM and it goes away higher than that RPM. i haven't heard it yet but is this commonly a timing chain guide issue? obviously you can't advise unless you here it, but i was just wondering your take. Thanks!
@@PseudonymAliase if the gears can rattle if they loose oil pressure for extended time but most times they damage the lower end cyl 2 almost always when they loose oil pressure
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop today I told him to do an oil change and bring me up the oil and filter. he brought me the oil filter and like a half a quart of oil. i'm like where is the oil? he said that was all that came out. I'm like...Bro that oil cooler you put on just cost you an engine. he said the rattling slightly went away but it's still their. his neighbor is a subaru mechanic and told him that it was a timing chain noise at 53k miles. I'm going to go listen to it tomorrow. but yeah i showed him a link of a fa20 with 40k on it through EBAY for $4000. probably the cheaper way to go.
can those engines come out the top, or only out the bottom?
I was hoping this task wouldn't involve me taking the engine out... Oh well.
Chulada
I'm just going to guess you either don't know what your doing or are working on a different motor as this is the best way to set up the timing on these motors.
You didn't even show how to take the chain off
Lol if you don't know how to do that you honestly might want to skip this job