Easiest Way To Anchor A Mobile Home
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- This is a "bit" I made out of a 1 1/2" square pipe welded to a 2" pipe, to be able to screw in 30" and 48" earth anchors/augers. The one man hydraulic auger turns a difficult job into a fun job.
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When the motor fires up the closed captioning says [music]. That made me chuckle.
Thanks for your time
God bless you
Works great, I've always wondered how this would work. Most times I'm installing homes and drilling these anchors in alone. I bought myself a machine that's specially made for this and it works great. Just a bit of a challenge to handle alone with the hard Colorado dirt. I always use stabilizer plates though instead of concrete. Much quicker in my opinion.
Yeah, stabilizer plates are nice, but NO ONE around here carries them. The few installers I've talked to have looked at me like I was crazy when I asked them why they didn't use plates or a concrete apron. The common reply is, "You don't have to do that." Even though common sense and the Manufacturer dictates otherwise... The auger makes this job super easy compared to a pipe threader or other hand-held machine, and only costs $100 for a 24hour rental. Totally worth it, and if I owned a mobile home moving company, I would either buy one, or just add on $100 to the fee and save everyone the strain. Smarter, not harder.
@@MyFortressConstruction great video. My question is are the mobile homes built on a flatbed trailer frame? Or did you move the Mh on an a flatbed trailer? Because I see a heavy duty frame & tool box mounted on the frame.
@@stevensaxon8888 Yeah, so I built this tiny home on a 40 ft gooseneck flatbed. You can see the house at: www.tinyhousemansion.com
How many anchors should be on a double wide, new build In Texas?
I said mobile homes for a living and the Tampa area I should live in plant City and those anchors right there would get me shitcan by the county...we can't use those on a mobile home doesn't pass and then they're not galvanized on top of that, if you're going through clay my hat is off to you that is hard to do I'm not knocking you at all but we got to put these anchors and down here this guy a 5-inch Helix on the bottom of it and there four foot long and if the soil doesn't test out right we got to put them in with a 6-inch Helix and there are 5 foot long so and we're doing it with a hand-held auger that you have to hold on to and when it hits stumps and rocks at beats you into the side of the house... Hats off to you it is hard work
Yes, because of our wind load and soil type these were all that we're required, but your scenario was the point of the video. I have seen the guys struggling to put in anchors and tried to think of a cost effective way of solving that part of the job. That one man auger is rated at drilling 3' deep, 12" wide holes. I would think it could put in a 5' x 6" double helix anchor, and the best part is that it won't throw you into a home or rip out of your hands! All you need is a little steel tubing, some bolts and some basic welding. Stay safe my friend.
How many anchors should be on a double wide, new build In Texas?
thanks for posting ! It gives me the idea to get a metal fabricator to make a similar attachment for my STIHL BT 131 Auger to drill Helix anchors into the ground. (unfortunately no welding talents with me)
Now's the time to pick up a cheap mig welder at harbor freight (Black Friday). It's basically a hot glue gun for steel. It doesn't have to look pretty and it will open up a whole new world to you.
Still needed that bulky machine.. You already had dug a hole might as well drop anchor three turns.. Ur done... Try using a ridgid 700 works better..
Tony Avila Not to be snide at all, but I'm guessing you haven't done this before. Not only is this clay soil with a layer of crushed concrete on top, but those holes were dug with the auger bits the machine uses and only down the 12" or so required to provide the concrete apron so that the pole has tension against the soil and won't be totally useless in the wind. If that hole wasn't there, then there would be no concrete and no proper support for the top of the anchor. You could skip the hole and concrete if you bought specialized metal plates that get pounded into place behind the anchors. Since you already have the auger, it's way cheaper to just dig the holes with the auger bits and pour concrete (plus, pretty much no one around here carries the metal plates).
Donna Partain What? Haha? Are you joking? If you don't understand the basic mechanics of anchoring a house then I suppose this video wouldn't do you much good. Those that anchor houses appropriately would find this beneficial as one man is able to dig the holes for the concrete apron with the auger and then drive the anchors as well. This is not an easy task in clay or Rocky soils, and finding a pipe threader to rent, as the commenter before stated, is not likely for most. The problem is most don't understand that you need to have support for the anchor or else the rod will cut through the soil allowing the house to move in a wind storm.
@@jjezzabel Dear dummy...he used the digger to dig the holes first half way. Then he used the to drive them into the compacted soil. Dumb. Dumb. Dumb.
Awesome solution. Thanks!
It's in the way when you put the skirting or underpinning on the mobile home!
Actually it wasn't, but yes, you want to make sure you don't put it out too far.
We do these all the time. Like mentioned below by someone, the straps cannot exceed a 45 degree angle or you have to run a second strap over to the opposite I beam. We just drive our augers right into the ground with a auger driver and then just drive the plate right in front of the rod with a 5lb mallet. They say the ground you drive the plate in should be undisturbed. But thats a good idea. I know the machine we have is rated at a 2 man machine but we normally only have one guy use it. Have to be pretty strong in case it starts grabbing onto something in the ground.
You are right about the degree, though I believe it is typically 40-50* as there is wiggle room. Stabilizer plates are definitely quicker.
this is the exact issue i’m having lol, we might be using the same machine. i’m by myself and not the biggest guy in the world so it’s literally trying to spin me around in circles. when the anchors get to a certain point in the ground they just stop moving though, idk what to do about that
B4 u dig.....call city to avoid damage to utility infrastructures.
Whatever works..what's with all the water in the hole?..close to sea level?
Really smart and easy too...👍👍
I'm sure he used the awger machine to dig the holes and as vid shows to drive the anchors in. Now he needs to build another attachment to MIX cement❗
Small.rack on the machine to hold auger, driver, mixer, anchors and cement bags.
well done
How can I get one of those adapters? I need to install anchors for my portable barn to pass inspection.
Sorry, but you'll have to make it like I did. It wasn't too difficult, just find some steel tubing that will fit around the shaft of the machine and weld on a piece of square tubing that will fit into your auger.
Ingenious!!!
up, if you are just going to concrete them in, dig the full 36" hole or however deep, set the anchor in and concrete it. No need to drill it in I'm thinking. I've never seen the concrete poured in Florida.
The point of the concrete is to act as an apron and prevent the rod from slicing through the dirt when pulled by the wind. You can also put a metal plate on one side of the anchor to do the same thing.
Think the screw has no grip with wet conrete cirlcling it.
How is it done in Florida ? that's where my fifth wheel is . thanks !
works great, but do not touch the bolt, until you turn the machine off.
Yes, I try to remind myself to shut equipment off, but you get in a rush... Better safe than... missing fingers. Haste makes... a very bad day.
WRONG !! Do NOT dig up the ground !!!! a 30" anchor with 2 4" helix will hold just over 4,000 lbs (in hard soil). If you dig up the ground, it will make it easier to install, but will then only hold about 500 lbs. you can face it out 45 degrees, which is easier to install, but you will need to buy a "plate" (like a shovel head), to keep it from knifing through the soil. Then you will have room to use a gas powered auger. I use a hand held one. Make sure you drive it all the way down. If you do dig a hole and fill with concrete, I think it needs to be at least 30" in diameter, but better to leave the soil virgin and hammer in a plate. Torque bolts to about 100 ft lbs. I recommend going to the manufacturers web page. This a good one @
No I'm not digging up the ground to set the anchor it's simply a concrete collar that's working like your stop plate. It is manufacturer and county code. But everybody needs to know what their specific area requires.
@@MyFortressConstruction Are you saying you didn't dig up the deep perfectly round hole ?? How did you make the whole if you didn't dig it up ?
@@donpazer No, you don't understand, the hole is only about 10" deep and acts as a collar around the top of the anchor to prevent the anchor from slicing through the clay when lateral pressure is applied in a heavy wind situation. So I'm not digging a deep hole to put in the anchor, I dig out the top 10" to pour concrete into to create the collar.
Your hole is 18" down as you said in video, then you put the auger in like 6" of dirt.
When the wind blows all it's going to do is pluck that whole piece of cement right out of the ground!
How many anchors should be on a double wide, new build In Texas?
How many anchors should be on a double wide, new build In Texas?
It depends on what zone you are in and what the manufacturer of your mobile home requires.
That being said, mobile homes around here (East of Dallas) typically have diagonal straps every 8'-15' and a couple of vertical straps on each side. Blocking is just as important though. Don't do single columns of 8x16 cinder blocks. Place a solid 4x16x16 base and then double them up if you need to support above the height of two of them. I have seen mobile homes in van zandt county (known for its tornadoes) pushed over a foot or two, even though they had them tied) because they had them too high on a single stack of cinder blocks.
Again, I would heartily suggest contacting building inspectors, or mobile home installers in your area to find out what is required and then contact your manufacturer to see what they say.
Could you just incase the whole thing in cement ? Its more densce that soil plus the force wouldnt be straight up but rather up and sideways and add rebar for strengh against cracking
You could, but around here it wouldn't be good because the ground likes to push the cement out of the clay due to expansion and contraction. The anchor does fine with holding power, the concrete is just there to keep the shaft from pulling through the soil.
@@MyFortressConstruction yeah i have about a foot worth of top soil that is almost purly clay and its just not suitable for a steel plate so i just incased it to concrete down to the first helix and the second i left it the dirt it didnt even budge with a breaker bar but the regular soil it pulls out so im going with cement
@@miniman1448 👍 People have given me flack in this video because most don't understand that it's not just the wind in their area, but also the soil type that determines the size, type and quantity of the anchors.
A easy way is to get pipe threader even if it's a cheap one from your harbor Freight store well the same plate on it
What are the specs? Does the country have to sign off on that job?
Specs were:
Soil Type: Clay with 4" Crushed Concrete Top.
Recommended Four Lateral 36" Double Helix Anchors and a 36" Double Helix anchor at front and back.
We went above requirements by adding a concrete "Collar".
Always check local county regulations and requirements though.
Was that rebar used to hammer down anchors
This guy is very beautiful
Nice!
Thanks!
Great idea; but, what did you use to dig the hole? Did you use the machine to dig the hole?
no he will keep the machine sale as good as possible
goof question.... these videos never talk about drilling the hole, which is the hardest part of the whole project.
my question is why you do not dig a little deeper and then pour the concrete? save the 100 dollars in rental and spend it on a good cement!
Great solution!
Clever
What do you call the plates for those earth anchors? I keep googling anchor ground plate and get the wrong thing
mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=503190&Store_Code=MHPS&gdffi=5a91c85c988a43159be79f03f721bc24&gdfms=8C62D50CA83F4033B2BBAE1F705DE475&gclid=CjwKCAjw2qHsBRAGEiwAMbPoDElOfuOQbBm7yzQ8ibTNtkzvOcaciZzBJsVLAPmSmeqiN-OH7ytU4RoCO5EQAvD_BwE
Hopefully the link worked. It's just a mobile home anchor stabilizer plate.
@@MyFortressConstruction "Anchor Stabilizer Plate" Thanks man, been wondering what they were called!
It only costs $5,000 for the auger machine!
Lol.
Do you have a cement mixer drive for the same rental tool?
No, but that's not a bad idea...
80 mile prh winds 90 may be.
Yeah or you can just use anchor machine it's called a Ridgid I've been setting up mobile homes up all my life that's the stupidest thing I've ever how much dirt are you actually getting into after you dig that hole
You're talking about a Ridgid 700 pipe threader, and while a pipe threader can turn the anchor into the ground, it can neither dig the hole nor is it as easy to use as this auger. Those holes are what actually keep the anchors from snaking through the dirt when tornadoes come through our area. You fill them with concrete and make an "apron" around the top 12" of the auger shaft and that resists the horizontal pull when extreme winds are trying to pull it off of the blocks. I have seen mobile home after mobile home in our area that was blown off it's foundation and the anchors bent in half because they just ripped through the soil. You can put them plenty deep, but the shaft is only as thick as your thumb, so the soil is not going to keep it from plowing through when there is lateral movement. Also, the soil for this residence was clay and rock and so the civil engineer only required those double-cutter short anchors. If it had been sand they would have required 4' anchors and it would have showed off this system a little more persuasively. Surely you are aware of different requirements based on soil type and windloads? Any one of us can do something for X-amount of years and still be doing it incorrectly. Length of time does not make something right (how many old homes have terrible problems with their foundation/siding/roofing etc?). I hope you continue to learn, and do things better than anyone else in your line of work.
@@MyFortressConstruction Great answers. You are an intelligent young man!!!!! Subscribed.
Are there other machines made to put that anchor in? If not, patent your idea and make some money!
Thanks, but that machine is a one man auger and is used for digging post holes. Typically you will see guys using a pipe threader to do this. All I did was weld an attachment that goes onto the end of the auger. My hope is that someone could use the idea and make the job a little easier.
Screw anchors in with a 350 foot pound torque electric impact wrench!!.. .
It's an interesting idea, however I think it would take a very long time (if it was able to do it at all).
I know this is an old video, but I'm new to looking into 'anchoring systems', and see that you used some sort of ratcheting or band held anchor. What is the proper name of that anchor type? google hasn't been kind enough to show me that model as a search result, and from the anchors that I have seen so for, I think they are the most sensible. Unfortunately... every video I have seen just calls them 'anchors'.
Thanks to anyone that can answer.
igounfazed So it is literally called an "Auger Mobile Home Anchor". There are two different styles of heads, one that looks like a dog tie (just a loop of metal), and then the ratcheting style utilizing the bands and bolts (most common).
Problem I see is that the anchor is to be on a 45 degree anchor toward the inside so that no pressure is put on the anchor pole. No concrete is needed as long as you have that anchor on the angle and the only reason to dig whole is to clear the anchor from bottom of home and I beam so that you can set in place properly. With this one being straight up, it can still break at the top of the concrete, because it is straight instead of being on the angle of the pull.
TheSalesGeek I am sure there is a manufacturer somewhere that would have their anchors placed in line with the pull of the tension as you are indicating, but none of the double spiral anchors that we use are to be installed like that. The manufacturer requires that they be installed how we did with either a metal plate to support the top of the rod or a concrete apron around the top. Installing it in line with the tension would void the warranty because it would not provide the same resistance. If you have installation instructions with the anchor you are talking about, I'd like to see how it's different, thanks.
How did you dig the hole?
He mentioned using augers to dig holes.
Since you already have the machine, the 12" auger bit makes it easy. You might have to hand dig it out a little bit because of the angle you have to do it at, but still pretty easy.
Man they gave me this big old motor you pretty much got to hold up on a little frame and I bring it home and I told him I was putting these anchors and slight that been you know crushed up and packed down and there is some big pieces of slate in there and ask them you know is the one that you gave me a one person one and will it make it drill down through that stuff after I already have much trailer set up yeah this is the right at home and that it took me all week to get like four anchors in the ground and I can't get them all the way down like they'll go down I got one all the way down and then the rest of them are anywhere from I'm going to say 5 in to 12 in above the ground and I called him said something to him about it after I had it for 3 days I was like when I'm going to have to have it for one more day $45 a day and they said all we gave you the wrong one that's why it's taking you so long but watch them charge me out the wazooo
Yeah that's rough. These anchors can be a bear in some soils, that's why this auger was so nice. Zero fatigue and if you hit something it doesn't break your ribs. Hope they make it right!
You did NOT need that machine... dig the hole .. drop the anchor, fill up the hole with concrete ..
Now the wind must pull the mobile home WITH that huge concrete block in the hole out ..
So couple things, digging holes in that ground is very difficult because it's black clay mixed with crushed rock. Not even that big hydraulic auger is able to go down more than 18 in. I would agree if it was sandy soil but not in this case. As always everyone should be getting augers that are rated for their wind load and soil type.
Well it just happens that you are not in that area with sandy soil ... But normally yes just dig the hole and drop the anchor is and fill up
I wouldn't anchor a mobile home like that you need deep post holes past the frost line full of concrete and a proper anchor those are for anchoring down a shed
For this soil type and windload these are the local requirements. Everyone's area will be different. That's the point of performing soil density tests and knowing the local windloads, even more so than the frost line.
I did mine by hand I called someone professional to do estimate he wanted 350 for hour work so I did it myself easy do it your self
But wasn't digging the hole the hardest part ? Did you do that yourself ?
@@donpazer yes sir I dug the holes
easiest way ?
Show me an easier way to dig the concrete apron and sink a double helix anchor. Guys are still doing this by hand, or with a Ridgid pipe threader.
I do like your idea of using this machine though, just everything else you did was pretty much wrong 😞
😂🤣☺️
I see you want to make good videos and criticism is hard, but you've made several mistakes so learn from them instead of turning off your comments on your second video!
First you don't dig that big of a hole for that short of a helix auger.
And secondly that cement needs to come all the way up to the bottom of that plate, just below the bolt or it will still end up bending and knifing, then tearing up that cement.
Criticism is good that is how we learn 😉.
The reason I turned off comments in the other video was because I got hundreds about the green cement cracking and that wasn't what I was showing. I was just trying to show how to turn the tightening mechanism and had to record the video before the concrete had hardened, hence the cracking. There wasn't another video online showing how to do that so that was my rushed attempt to get something out there. I'm grateful that these videos have been viewed by so many people and helped to give some others an idea on what to do, even if it wasn't totally correct. However, I don't think what I was doing was wrong. What I've found is that each location has very specific requirements for wind ratings and my area doesn't have any requirements (enforced) at all. The only documents I could find for those anchors I used indicated a 12" diameter hole that was 12" down filled with cement and the ratchet mechanism exactly where I had it. Again, this was above and beyond my local requirements, but it made sense to me according to the mfr. specs I found. Now, your area may require 5' anchors every 2' with metal plates as stops, but I wasn't trying to give universal requirements, just what I needed in my area. So, in the end was it perfect? No. Was my idea good? Yeah, I think so, especially in the clay soil around here. Could it have been done better, I'm sure and I love it when people leave comments from experience to help others.
Lol 🤣🤣🤣
go back to school hack. that anchor is only grabbing about 10" or dirt max. what is going to hold it down? 60lbs of concrete? the tool is cool and im probably going to try it but you are doing dangerous work by not following HUD protocol
10" x 18" concrete collar? Check
VERTICALLY installed? Check
Meets wind requirements for our area? Check
The type and depth of your auger, quantity and position is determined by soil types, wind requirements, length of home and manufacturer specifications.
If your entire auger was encased in concrete, that would be even better. The only thing that needs to be at 45*, when utilizing a vertical anchor, is the strap going to the I-beam. I know that lots of guys like to ditch the concrete or plate and stick in the anchor sideways, but I've seen house move when they're installed like that.
If you listened to anything I said you would realize these are HUD approved anchors, installed in the correct manner, but regardless, this is to show how easy this job can be with a one-man auger.
Instead of talking smack, let's help inform people.
@@MyFortressConstruction Well put. Thank you for helping us.