Weber DGAS 38 , Part 1 -Parts and Elements, replacements and disassembly, baselines
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 ก.พ. 2021
- This vide is the first one in a series on how to understand, disassemble, align and adjust the Weber DGAS carb. In the first part we address all the different parts of the carb, we look at the Italian and Spanish models, we take it apart and talk about all the parts and finally the base-line.
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Thanks!🍻
Thank you so much for the super... It is really appreciated
@@D3Sshooter You’re most welcome - this was worth every cent and more!
@@rogersoucy3 , if we were ever to meet, i buy you a beer or coffee my friend..
Coming from somebody that set up Weber carbs for years ,these tutorials on Weber carburators are the best I've ever seen .
Thanks for the comments, and thank you
@@D3Sshooter Danke
Very well explained! I have this 38 DGAS on an Essex, and I learned a lot from your Video!!! Thank you!
TXS for the comments
Great Video, can`t wait for the next. Your pushing the benchmark to a new level. Thank you Steve.
Thanks for the comments, its coming soon
Absolutely great video, thank you. I can get easily overwhelmed just holding a carburetor in my hands and looking it over. There are so many little systems and vectors trying to work together. Relative to one another, they are ever changing across the wide spectrum of demand during driving/operation. This concept only serves to confuse and intimidate me more. Your explanations, camera work, and commentary is stellar, and has helped me greatly as I work to understand carburetors and apply what I've learned. The carburetor is like a little magical universe in itself; a small but extremely important piece in the automotive puzzle. Thanks again for creating this and sharing.
Thanks for passing the knowledge down to the next gernaration 👍
You bet!
This video is absolutley excellent, as a novice engine builder I really appreciate you filming and explaining this process...thank you!
Thanks for the comments
great video as always, i love the way you can explain what the parts are and why they are there and what they do. also good to see the differences to the Spanish carb.
most of this carb is applicable to the 32/36 weber also.
Thanks for the comments
I watch a lot of TH-cam videos on a great variety of subjects. You are without doubt the best I’ve seen. Great camera work with clear concise commentary. Thank you and well done..
THANK YOU! My older brother gave me a 79 Toyota pickup with a 38 DGAS on it and it does not like to run for very long. I'm used to working on EFI so I wasn't sure where to begin. This video will for sure help me get it running right again.
Incredibly informative and perfect for understanding and setting up a dual Weber carb. Without this tutorial my carb would never have been setup correctly. Thank you.
Thanks for the comments
Excellent tutorial video! I do video work & car stuff. My VW Bus, 1800cc engine came with a Chinese knockoff of a Weber 32/36 DGEV. The DGAS is extremely similar. It's been 40 years since I rebuilt carburetors, your lesson is a huge help. Thank You!
Lovely video to watch, only on part 1.
I've been messing around with carbs for awhile but always enjoy watching videos on them.
I recently acquired a pair of Weber 36 DCNF for my MK1 Fiesta 1.1, it was a rare sports / rally addon / package done in Europe been after the carbs for around 7 years I want to say, can not wait to get them on the car and tuned in, first time messing with more than one carb so should be fun :)
Keep up the great videos.
Take care and stay safe.
Glad you enjoyed it! and enjoy your fiesta
@@D3Sshooter Thank you Sir, I certainly will!
Interesting build, keep up the good work !
Thanks for the comments
Great stuff as usual. I have bought a new 38DGMS for my Scimitar, I assumed DGAS was Automatic coke and DGMS Manual choke, but now you have persuaded me to overhaul the original and transfer just the choke actuation from the new one to the old. I don't like auto chokes - they are too insensitive during warm up and usually give too much fuel for too long. Thanks for your videos they are very clear and informative and have come just at the right time as I wait for my engine to be overhauled.
thanks for the comments, and indeed
Brilliant strip down and explanation
You got a mf'ing OSCILLOSCOPE in the garage! That deserves respect and a like.
Haha thanks for the comments.
Good explanation. Thanks for your time and effort.
You are welcome!
Thanks so much for the fantastic tutorials, Steve. I have learned much from this series as well as many of your other videos.
I have one thing worth noting on the differences between the Italian and Spanish Webers. You remarked how your Spanish DGAS lacks many of the features of your Italian variant, such as the antistall (or LoVE system as Weber calls it - Low Vacuum Enrichment).
However, I just purchased a Weber 38 DGMS (the difference being the manual choke) and this carburetor is identical in features to your Italian Weber. The only difference is the mechanical choke linkage.
I’m not sure why they decided to add the extra features to only the DGMS and not any other models, but I thought you might find it interesting to know that there still are some modern variants with those features.
Thanks again!
Outstanding presentation sir! I going thru a knockoff now and I will have many questions. Thanks, Bob in Payson, Arizona😎 5000 ft elevation
Awesome! Thank you!
Super good information.thanks a lot
Very nice to see!
My Volvo houses a 32DIR109 which i have rebuild in 2010.
Thanks for the comments, indeed . I have seen several Volvo's with this carb. Happy to hear
Excellent video. I have a Reliant Scimitar with the same engine and carburettor 👍
Thanks for the comments and indeed those are simular
@@D3Sshooter I’ve recommended your channel to the Scimitar club guys and they are very impressed. Keep up the good work 👍
If you want to make a carb look like new, use a baking soda blaster. I use one all the time for cleaning alloy carb parts after running thru my ultrasonic cleaner. Baking soda is very cheap as are handheld media blasters, and it won’t damage or remove any of the base metal and dissolves easily in water.
Thanks for the comments, indeed that makes it look clean and nice....
Appreciate this very much
Thanks for the comments
Just about to start on rebuilding my 38DGAS for my scimitar S5a, these videos are better than any manual i have seen. What did you use to clean the carb? i have an ultrasonic cleaner but dont want to risk any damage by using a cleaner that may be to aggressive...
great video thanks!
Thanks for the comments
Very good sir
Do you have to have the anti stal on it i am used to 32 36 vac webers and i thought they the same just synchronized
Can a bent valve cause plugs to get wet. My 3.0 V6 Essex is wetting plugs but cylinder 2 is just gets drenched with fuel more than the other plugs
Can having the return and feed lines mixed up cause an issue?
Possible video on how to tune? Would you have baseline/ tune for my 1.9 liter Volvo P1800 at altitude from 1200-6000 ft elevation. My baseline is the same as you have written on your board. Idle jet .50 mm, main jets 1.45, air correction jets 1.70 mm. I would like a little more power with good throttle response. Just finished tear down, cleaning and reassembly, found a couple of things that would have caused my stumble on low rpm acceleration? No O ring on automatic choke and second fuel hole just showing near butterfly. This Chinese Weber is not the best🤔
I will drive tomorrow and see what occurs?
Once again thanks for the terrific presentation . Also, would you have any leads on Italian Weber’s? Thank you, Bob in the mountains of Arizona USA
Thanks for the comments Bob, much depends where you want more power " Lower, Mid and upper RPM range " Acceleration is mainly by the acceleration jets and pump. The Chinese webers are in general very poor and inaccurate. Try to get an Italian weber ... I will make a video on tuning soon.
Hello, thanks for the video, it is helping me a lot with my carburetor, I have the same 38/38, it is carbonizing my spark plugs, I have the main jet 120, idle jet 40, pump jet 70, would you recommend something? My engine is 1.6 8 valves, it is small but I don't know if I should go to the minimum in everything.
check float level and fuel pressure webers like 3 to 5 psi.
Anyone have the correct part number for that rebuild kit? 🙏
Verry good explanation Steve!! Where do you have all that knowledge of ?
Thanks for the comments, its the nature of the beats as they say lol... I am an engineer and love to reverse engineer things. I can't stand something that I do not understand in full... So over all the years I have been digging into things that I did not understand for 100% , until I fully understood it... maybe my obsession lol
if you by the one with manual choke you get the anti stall system. it also have the return line. what you have there is not the correct one for your setup.
Thanks for the comments and tip
Are both idle jets adjusted for slow running together? Is one screwed in while one adjusted?
each screw ( Idle) is adjusted separate for each funnel .
What is your opinion performance-wise comparing 38DGAS to 32/36DGEV? Which provides better driveability and/or performance?
Also I am considering to flow the head and equip it with big valves.
That all depends as the DGAS is a synchronous double barrel and the DGEV is a progressive second barrel... IMO, I prefer the DGAS as that feeds the engine on two barrels of course it all depends on your intake manifold, how is it configured one plenum for all cylinders ? or separate feeds... I have one Formula Ford with the DGEV modified , so both barrels open at the same time and that gives me a lot of torque and acceleration... In fact a DGAS would most likely do the same...
@@D3Sshooter, considering a 2.0 Liter engine, what would you estimate to be the difference in hp? Does the DGAS not lack the half throttle capacity? Or a granularity of response.
which site do you get parts from? and do you order all replacement jets from the start?
Thanks for the comments, I use the carburateurshop.nl . First I inspect what is in a carb . Both the types of jets and the state. As any people mess around with it and put often the wrong combinations in. So, I re-jet to the baseline ( standard sizes). Once that is done , and all parts that are worn replaced, I move to the next step , Tuning. meaning, having the carb on the car and test drive, find the behaviour that can be better and then adjust the jets as needed.
hello very interesting. I have a Spain made carb. no anti stall. what does this do . my engine is supercharged mopsr 2.2. I have a very rich condition just off idle. 170 mains. f50 tubes. mixture is good under boost but cruise speeds are rich. what can I do. if I reduce idle jets I will get hesitation. hesitation. thanks .
Will blocking the secondary side of this weber improve fuel consumption . It seems mine revs foot flats when the other part is blocked. Bt my fuel consumption is a bit high . Am suspect the gears are not working well. Would want it be functioning as it should without anything blocked. My engine is a v6 essex 3.0ltr
Not really as you will lose power. the intend is to have sufficient air/fuel volume and for that you need both barrels to work.
How much is your fuel consumption ? 12ltr/100Km is not abnormal. Did you check the AFR on idle and running.. As for your test, rev-ing without a load on the engine does not mean anything. It will do that even when running very lean... However with load , you will need to have at least a 13/1 `AFR and more... Thus with a single barrel , its not going to produce enough power... But try it, by taping of that one barrel and drive the car... you will see that it really has an issue with power at that time....
Ok thanks for the information.. I noticed earlier when it ran on both barrels it gave 1ltr/11km highway driving and all plugs were brownish. That main fault was even blowing and it wasn't performing well lost power at times and the accelerator reved half way down only. Now with 1 barrel blocked it revs almost full throttle bt some plugs are wet with fuel at the tips and has some jerking while driving
@shingiraishoniwa6174 1l/11km is ok and brown plug are ok as well as long as they are not white. When you say blowing, do you mean sputter in the carb ? With one barrel blocked you have wet plugs ( some ) ?, that is not good as it indicates that there is an issue with the ignition... make sure that the advance and all that is ok, because wet plugs are bad as the fuel will wash of the oilfilm on the cilinders.
@@D3Sshooter some plugs are wet some are dry. Will have ignition timing checked. The blowing I meant was happening wer the exhaust manifold attaches to the engine head cylinder I since got it fixed
@@shingiraishoniwa6174 , well that is something t hat needs fixing first both intake and exhaust manifolds should have no leaks as that can cause many issues . Main point is : Ignition must be right for all sparkplugs , good leads , good plug and good timing and advance adjustment.., no leaks on the intake or outlet manifolds, good compression on all cylinders and good fuelpomp pressure. Only when all that is good , one can start to tune the carb...
Did you ever post a video on how to tune it in the car while running?
Thanks for the comments, I did and will try to find the link
looking for someone in the usa to do the progressive modification. I street drive my car more than race thinking of going down to 3236
Did 't find it.you ever do the part two? I can
Not sure what you are trying to say Ian ? maybe you can rephrase.
@@D3Sshooter I couldn't find part 2 but realised that part 1 has only just been made so I'm now waiting patiently. Great video by the way, good camera work, no waffling (unlike many videos) and you obviously know your stuff, keep up the good work.
Hi
Is italian better than spanish?
👀🇦🇺👍
Thanks for the comments
Having bought a spanish brand new 34 34 DMTR, I can confirm that the quality is meh (poor castings etc.. bent throttle linkage too) but had no choice couldn't find the correct used one
Thanks for the comments, indeed
i have electric choke .
To bad you can't put triple Weber's IDF'S on that engine. 👍
yep
.
I have a question I have a 32 36 weber carb. My sandrail over flows with gas every time I stay it and the idel is high how do I drop the idel down
I would say , check first the float level and then the fuel pressure
needs 3 psi. no more.
Spaanse Weber en zelfs een Chinese kopie van de Spaanse... waar gaat de wereld naar toe ?!!.....
ja inderdaad, is allemaal wel goedkoop. Maar wat doe je ermee ? als het niet goed werkt